1
史臣曰：昔者乘雲效駕，卷領垂衣，則黃帝皁衣纁裳，放勳彤車白馬，葉三微之序，舍寅醜之建，玄戈玉刃，作會相暉。 若乃參旗分景，帝車含曜，又所以營衛南宮，增華北極。 《月令》季夏之月，「命婦官染彩」，赬丹班次，各有品章矣。 高旗有日月之象，式視有威儀之選，衣兼鞙珮，衡載鳴和，是以閑邪屏棄，不可入也。 若乃正名百物，補緝四維，疏懷山之水，靜傾天之害，功尤彰者飾彌煥，德愈盛者服彌尊，莫不質良，用成其美。 《書》曰：「明試以功，車服以庸。」 「《禮記》曰：「鸞車，有虞氏之路也。 鉤車，夏後氏之路也。 大路，殷路也。 乘路，周路也。」 而韍火山龍，以通其意。 前史以為，聖人見鳥獸容貌，草木英華，始創衣冠，而玄黃殊采； 見秋蓬孤轉，杓觿旁建，乃作輿輪，而方圓異則。 遇物成象，觸類興端。 周因于殷，其來已舊。 成王之會，壇垂陰羽，五方之盛，有八十物者焉。 宗馬鳥旌，奚往不格，殷公、曹叔，此焉低首。 《周禮》，巾車氏建大赤以朝，大白以戎。 雅制弘多，式遵遺範，賓入異憲，師行殊則，是以有嚴有翼，用光其武，鉤膺鞗革，乃暢其文。 六服之冕，五時之路，王之常制，各有等差。 逮禮業雕訛，人情馳爽，諸侯征伐，憲度淪亡，一紫亂于齊飾，長纓混于鄒玩。 孔子曰：「君子其學也博，其服也鄉。」 若乃豪傑不經，庶人幹典，彯鷸冠于鄭伯之門，躡珠履于春申之第。 及秦皇並國，攬其餘軌，豐貂東至，獬豸南來，又有玄旗皁旒之制，旄頭罕車之飾，寫九王之廷於咸陽北阪，車輿之彩，各樹其文，所謂秦人大備，而陳戰國之後車者也。 及凝脂布網，經書咸燼，削滅三代，以金根為帝軫，除棄六冕，以袀玄為祭服。 高祖入關，既因秦制。 世宗挺英雄之略，總文景之資，揚霓拂翳，皮軒記鼓，橫汾河而祠后土，登甘泉而祭昊天，奉常獻儀，謂之大駕，車千乘而騎萬匹。 至於成帝，以幸姬趙飛燕置屬車間豹尾中，又楊雄所謂彏天狼之威弧，張曜日之靈旄，駢羅列布，霧集雲合者也。 于後王氏擅朝，武車常軔，赤眉之亂，文物無遺。 建武十三年，吳漢平蜀，始送葆車輿輦，充庭之飾，漸以周備。 明帝采《周官》、《禮記》，更服袞章，天子冠通天而佩玉璽。 魏明以黼黻之美，有疑於僭，於是隨章儐略，而捐者半焉。 高堂隆奏曰：「改正朔、殊徽號者，帝王所以神明其政，變民耳目也。」 帝從其議，改青龍五年為景初元年，服色尚黃，從地正也。 世祖武皇帝接天人之貺，開典午之基，受終之禮，皆如唐虞故事。 晉氏金行，而服色尚赤，豈有司失其傳歟！
The historiographer writes: In the legendary age, sovereigns were pictured mounting the clouds as a chariot and governing in loosely draped robes. The Yellow Emperor wore black above and reddish brown below; Yao (Fangxun) rode a vermilion chariot drawn by white horses. Rulers aligned the calendar with the “three subtle” sequence and moved away from taking Yin or Chou as the first month; black halberds and jade blades flashed together in court, each emblem answering the next in splendor. The constellations Orion’s Belt and the Celestial Chariot mark off daylight and gather starlight—emblems, as it were, for protecting the southern celestial palace and crowning the northern pivot of the sky. The Monthly Ordinances for late summer command the palace dyers to set the palette; shades of cinnabar and vermilion were sequenced by rank, each hue carrying its regulated pattern. Tall standards carried sun and moon; the chariot’s balancing crosspiece proclaimed dignity; robes were set off by belt ornaments, and the yoke bore harmonizing bells—together they shut out wickedness so that nothing base could slip through. When rulers set the world in order—sorting names, binding the four directions, taming floods that could swallow hills, and checking disasters that seemed to shake the heavens—the greater the achievement, the richer the regalia; the deeper the virtue, the loftier the costume. Everything was made of fine materials so that splendor matched substance. The Book of Documents reads: “Test officers plainly by their work, and reward them with chariots and robes in proportion to their service.” The Record of Rites continues: “The luan carriage was the ritual chariot of the Shun (Youyu) house. The “hook” carriage was the ritual chariot of the Xia kings. The great chariot was the Shang (Yin) ritual carriage. The “sheng” carriage was the Zhou ritual chariot.” On robes, axe-shaped fu, fire, mountain, and dragon motifs conveyed the ruler’s intentions through regulated symbolism. Earlier writers thought the sages invented hats and gowns after studying the shapes of birds and beasts and the brilliance of plants, dividing garments into dark and bright colors. Watching thistledown spin in the wind and noting how the Dipper and girdle-hook stars stand askew, they devised carts and wheels with distinct rules for square hubs and round felloes. Each thing they met suggested a design; each kind inspired a new institution. The Zhou built on Shang practice; the lineage of these forms was already ancient. At King Cheng’s great gathering of lords, the ritual mound bore somber plumes, and the regalia of the five regions displayed some eighty emblematic items. With royal horses and bird-decked banners, every march commanded submission—even lords like the Duke of Yin and Prince Cao had to lower their heads before such majesty. The Zhou ritual specifies the chariot master’s raising a great scarlet banner for audiences and a great white one for military affairs. Models multiplied, yet all echoed antique precedent: guests were received under one set of rules, campaigns under another, so court looked stern and supportive while war gear flashed power—breast-straps of bronze, supple leathers—yet the same system lent polish to civil display. The six grades of feudal caps and the five seasonal chariot colors were fixed parts of royal ceremony, each step distinguished by rank. Later, as ritual frayed and ambition ran wild, vassals fought one another and regulations collapsed—a single fashionable purple threw Qi’s wardrobe into chaos, while absurdly long hat cords became playthings in Zou. Confucius remarked: “The noble man studies widely, yet his clothing stays appropriate to the customs of his own place.” Yet bold men ignored precedent and commoners flouted sumptuary law—some flaunted kingfisher-feather caps at the Zheng ruler’s gate, others wore pearl-sewn shoes in Lord Chunshen’s mansion. When Qin Shi Huang conquered the realm, he swept up every regional fashion: sable streamed in from the east, “unicorn” judge’s caps from the south, along with black standards, sable tassels, yak-tail lances, and exotic escort cars. He staged the nine kings’ courts on Xianyang’s north terrace, each chariot type painted in its own motif—what later writers mean by “Qin had everything, down to the baggage train of the Warring States.” After the bibliocaust, when even classics fed the flames, he tried to erase the Three Dynasties at a stroke: the “metal-root” chariot became the imperial norm, the six ancient crown types were junked, and sacrifices were conducted in austere unembroidered black. When Liu Bang entered the Qin heartland, he initially kept the Qin ceremonial wardrobe and chariot codes. Emperor Wu (Han Shizong) deployed heroic ambition on the accumulated wealth of the Wen–Jing era: iridescent banners parted the haze, leather-screen cars rolled with painted drums, he forded the Fen to worship Earth on the square mound and climbed Sweet Dew Mound to honor Heaven. The court of ritual offered the “grand chariot” array—legend speaks of a thousand cars and ten thousand riders. Emperor Cheng even tucked his favorite Zhao Feiyan’s carriage inside the leopard-tail escort—exactly the sort of spectacle Yang Xiong mocked: banners like Sirius’s war-bow, pennons blazing like the sun, vehicles massed “like mist and cloud.” Later the Wang family hijacked government, armored columns clogged the highways, and when the Red Eyebrows swept through, the old Han ceremonial gear vanished entirely. In Han Guangwu’s thirteenth Jianwu year, after Wu Han conquered Shu, captured Shu ceremonial wagons and litters reached the capital; bit by bit the court regained a full set of display vehicles. Ming Di reworked court dress from the Zhou Offices and the Record of Rites, adopting the dragon-embroidered sacrificial robe; the emperor wore the tall tongtian (“pierce-heaven”) crown and carried the jade seal at his waist. Cao Rui (Wei Ming Di), fearing that rich axe-and-fu brocade smacked of overreach, pared the wardrobe to match statute, discarding roughly half the old finery. Gao Tang Long argued: “Revising the calendar and regalia is how a ruler signals a new order and resets what the people see and hear.” The throne agreed: Qinglong year five became Jingchu year one, court color turned to yellow in deference to the “earth” alignment of the calendar. Sima Yan, the martial founding emperor, accepted heaven’s mandate and men’s allegiance, laid the Jin dynastic base—his accession rites consciously echoed the legendary abdications of Yao and Shun. Jin’s element was metal, yet court dress favored red—did the ministry simply mishandle the old theory?
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玉、金、象、革、木等路，是為五路，並天子之法車，皆硃班漆輪，畫為文。 三十幅，法月之數； 重轂，貳轄，以赤油，廣八寸，長三尺，注地，系兩軸頭，謂之飛軨。 金薄繆龍繞之為輿倚較，較重，為文獸伏軾，龍首銜軛，左右吉陽筩，鸞雀立衡，文畫轅及轓。 青蓋，黃為裏，謂之黃屋。 金華施橑末，橑二十八以象宿。 兩箱之後，皆玳瑁為鶤翅，加以金銀雕飾，故世人亦謂之金鶤車。 斜注旂旗于車之左，又加棨戟于車之右，皆橐而施之。 棨戟韜以黻繡，上為亞字，系大蛙蟆幡。 軛長丈餘。 於戟之杪，以犛牛尾，大如鬥，置左騑馬軛上，是為左纛。 轅皆曲向上，取《禮緯》「山車垂句」之義，言不揉而能自曲。
The five ritual chariots—jade, gold, ivory, leather, and wood—form the emperor’s canonical set; each rides on red-flecked lacquer wheels painted with designs. Thirty spokes match the lunar count; They use paired hub drums and twin linchpins, draped with red-oil cloth eight inches broad and three feet long, hanging to the ground and lashed at each axle tip—the “flying” linchpin screens. Gold foil dragons wrap the side rails; heavy curved “leaning” bars bear molded beasts on the front shield; dragon heads bite the yoke; lucky tubes flank the crossbar; luan birds perch on the pivot; shaft and fenders carry painted motifs. The green outer canopy lined in yellow is the imperial “yellow house.” Gilded caps finish twenty-eight canopy ribs to mirror the lunar lodges. Tortoiseshell “hawk wings” trim the rear of each side box, inlaid with gold and silver—hence the nickname “golden hawk car.” Slanted pennons ride on the car’s left, cased halberds on the right, both fixed in place. Halberd quivers wear black-and-white embroidered slips marked with a ya-shaped cross motif and fasten a large toad pennon. The yoke pole runs more than ten feet long. A yak tail the size of a bucket tops the halberd shaft and is fixed to the left trace horse’s yoke—the imperial “left yak-tail” ensign. The shafts curve upward, echoing the omen text about “mountain cars” and drooping hooks—meaning they arc naturally without steam-bending.
3
玉、金、象三路，各以其物飾車，因以為名。 革者漆革，木者漆木。 其制，玉路最尊，建太常，十有二旒，九仞委地，畫日月升龍，以祀天。 金路建大旂，九旒，以會萬國之賓，亦以賜上公及王子母弟。 象路建大赤，通赤無畫，所以視朝，亦以賜諸侯。 革路建大白，以即戎兵事，亦以賜四鎮諸侯。 木路建大麾，以田獵，其麾色黑，亦以賜籓國。 玉路駕六黑馬，余四路皆駕四馬，馬並以黃金為文髦，插以翟尾。 象鑣而鏤錫，錫在馬面，所謂當顱者也。 金㚇而方釳， 〈金㚇謂以金㚇為文。 釳以鐵為之，其大三寸，中央兩頭高，如山形，貫中以翟尾而結著之也。〉 繁纓赤罽易茸，金就十有二。 繁纓，馬飾纓，在馬膺前，如索裙。 五路皆有錫鸞之飾，和鈴之響，鉤膺玉瓖，鉤膺，即繁纓也。 瓖，馬帶玦名也。 龍輈華轙，輈，車轅也，頭為龍象。 轙，謂車衡上環受鸞者也。 硃幩。 幩，飾也，人君以硃纏鑣扇汗，以為飾也。 法駕行則五路各有所主，不懼出； 臨軒大會則陳乘輿車輦旌鼓於其殿庭。
The jade, gold, and ivory cars are named for the materials that sheath them. The leather car is lacquered hide; the wood car is lacquered timber. Of the five, the jade chariot ranks first: it flies the Grand Constant banner with twelve streamers, nine ren of silk brushing earth, painted with sun, moon, and climbing dragon—for suburban worship of Heaven. The gold car bears a nine-tasseled great banner for feasting the lords of all regions and may be awarded to chief dukes and the ruler’s uterine brothers. The ivory car flies a plain scarlet great banner—used for ordinary audiences and granted to vassal kings. The leather car carries the great white standard for campaign and is given to the “four guardian” marquises. The wood car hoists a black hawk banner for the hunt and may be presented to outlying principalities. The jade chariot draws six black horses; the other four draw teams of four; every horse wears gold-threaded forelocks and pheasant-tail plumes. Cheek-straps end in elephant motifs and carry pierced forehead ornaments (xi)—the metal plate on the horse’s brow. Gold zong bosses and square xi cheek plates, 〈Commentary: “Gold zong” means the bosses are patterned in gold. The xi plate is iron, three inches through the middle with raised ends like a peak, threaded with pheasant tail and bound fast.〉 Breast tassels of red felt with soft pile, set with twelve gold studs. The “thick tassels” are the chest ornaments—hanging before the saddle like a cord skirt. All five cars carry forehead plaques and luan motifs, harmonizing bells, bronze breast-straps, and jade belt-rings—the breast-strap is the same piece as the “thick tassel” array. The huan is the jade ring on the harness band. The pole ends in a dragon head; “yi” refers to the splendid collar hardware. Here “yi” is the ring on the yoke that catches the luan bird finial. Cinnabar-dyed fen screens. “Fen” means decoration: the emperor wraps the cheek-guards’ sweat screens in vermilion thread as trim. On a statutory progress each of the five ritual cars has its assigned role and is not deployed at random; at a great court audience the imperial cars, litters, standards, and drums line the forecourt.
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車，坐乘者謂之安車，倚乘者謂之立車，亦謂之高車。 案《周禮》，惟王后有安車也，王亦無之。 自漢以來制乘輿，乃有之。 有青立車、青安車、赤立車、赤安車、黃立車、黃安車、白立車、白安車、黑立車、黑安車，合十乘，名為五時車，俗謂之五帝車。 天子所禦則駕六，其餘並駕四。 建旂十二，各如車色。 立車則正豎其旂，安車則邪注。 駕馬，馬亦各隨五時之色，白馬則朱其尾，左右騑驂，金㚇鏤錫，黃屋左纛，如金根之制，行則從後。 五牛旗，平吳後所造，以五牛建旗，車設五牛，青赤在左，黃在中，白黑在右。 豎旗于牛背，行則使人輿之。 牛之為義，蓋取其負重致遠而安穩也。 旗常纏不舒，所謂德車結旌也。 天子親戎則舒，謂武車綏旌也。
Chariots meant for seated riding are “peace cars”; those for standing riders are “standing cars,” also called high cars. The classic Zhou text grants a seated carriage only to the queen—not even to the king. Only after Han codified the imperial cortège did the emperor acquire them. The suite includes green, red, yellow, white, and black versions in both standing and seated styles—ten cars altogether—known as the five-season set, popularly called the “Five Thearchs’ chariots.” The emperor’s own car draws six horses; the rest use four-horse teams. Twelve pennons fly, each dyed to match its car. Standing cars carry vertical poles; peace cars tilt their standards. Horses are caparisoned to the five seasonal hues—white horses get vermilion tails; outriggers wear gold bosses and openwork xi, the yellow-lined canopy and left yak-tail, matching the metal-root style, and fall in behind when the train moves. After Wu fell, Jin introduced the five-ox standard: five oxen support the flag, green and red to the left, yellow in the middle, white and black to the right. The pole stands upright on the ox; on the march bearers lift it in a portable frame. Oxen were chosen for their steady strength over long distances. In peacetime the pennons stay furled—what ritualists call the “virtue car” with knotted streamers. When the emperor takes the field, they spread— the “martial car” with loosened streamers.
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金根車，駕四馬，不建旗幟，其上如畫輪車，下猶金根之飾。
The metal-root car uses four horses and no lofty standards; its upperworks resemble a painted pleasure cart, its undercarriage the metal-root trim.
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耕根車，駕四馬，建赤旂，十有二旒，天子親耕所乘者也。 一名芝車，一名三蓋車。 置耒耜於軾上。 魏景初元年，改正朔，易服色，色尚黃，牲用白，戎事乘黑首白馬，建大赤之旂，朝會則建大白，行殷之時也。 泰始二年，有司奏：「宜如有虞遵唐故事，皆用前代正朔服色，其金根、耕根車，並以建赤旗。」 帝從之。
The ploughing chariot, four horses, flies a twelve-tasseled red banner—the car the emperor rides to the spring furrow ritual. It is also called the “fungus” car or the “triple-canopy” car. Ceremonial plough and spade rest on the front rail. In Wei’s Jingchu inaugural year the calendar and palette were revised: yellow dominated dress, white sacrificial beasts, black-maned white horses for war, great scarlet banners on campaign, great white at audiences—deliberately echoing the Yin alignment. In Jin Taishi year two ministers argued: “We should imitate Shun deferring to Tang and keep the previous dynasty’s calendar and colors; metal-root and ploughing cars ought both to fly built scarlet banners.” The throne agreed.
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輦，案自漢以來為人君之乘，魏晉禦小出即乘之。
The litter had been the sovereign’s short-trip vehicle since Han; Wei and Jin emperors routinely rode it for informal exits from the palace.
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戎車，駕四馬，天子親戎所乘者也。 載金鼓、羽旗、幢翳，置弩於軾上，其建矛麾悉斜注。
The war car, four horses, carries the emperor onto the battlefield. It bears bronze drums, feathered standards, sun-shades; a crossbow mounts on the rail; spears and pennons all slant forward.
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獵車，駕四馬，天子校獵所乘也。 重輞漫輪，繆龍繞之。 一名闒戟車，一名蹋豬車。 魏文帝改名蹋獸車。 《記》云「國君不乘奇車」，奇車亦獵車也。 古天子獵則乘木輅，後人代以獵車也。
The hunting car, four horses, serves the emperor at the great battue. It has a broad rim, fully shod wheel, and coiling dragon paint. Also called the “halberd-rack” car or colloquially the “pig-stomper.” Cao Pi renamed it the “beast-tread” vehicle. The classic warns that “a lord of a state does not ride strange cars”—those “strange” vehicles meant hunt wagons. Ancient kings hunted from the plain wood ritual car; later courts swapped in the dedicated hunt carriage.
10
游車，九乘，駕四，先驅之乘是也。
Nine “patrol” cars, each with four horses, form the advance screen of the train.
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雲罕車，駕四。
The yun-han screen car rides four horses.
12
皮軒車，駕四，以獸皮為軒。
The leather-canopied escort wagon, team of four, lines its screen with pelts.
13
鸞旗車，駕四，先輅所載也。 鸞旗者，謂析羽旄而編之，列系幢傍也。
The luan-feather banner car, four horses, rides with the vanguard train. The “luan” standard is built from split yak plumes braided together and lashed along the canopy uprights.
14
建華車，駕四，凡二乘，行則分居左右。
Two “splendid blossom” cars, each with four horses, deploy one to each side when the column moves.
15
輕車，駕二，古之戰車也。 前後二十乘，分居左右。 輿輪洞硃，不巾不蓋，建矛戟麾幢，置弩箙於軾上。 大駕法駕出，射聲校尉、司馬、吏士、戰士載，以次屬車。
Light strike cars use two-horse teams—the old Zhou-style fighting wagon. Twenty such cars split fore and aft between the left and right files. They are painted solid vermilion, open-topped, bristling with spears, halberds, and streamers, with a crossbow case fixed to the front rail. Whenever the grand or statutory cortège rolls out, archery colonels, adjutants, clerks, and troops ride these as the numbered attendant cars.
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司南車，一名指南車，駕四馬，其下制如樓，三級； 四角金龍銜羽葆； 刻木為仙人，衣羽衣，立車上，車雖回運而手常南指。 大駕出行，為先啟之乘。
The south-pointing carriage—also called the compass cart—draws four horses; its body stacks three gallery levels; gold dragons at each corner grip feather-tasseled finials; a carved immortal in feather cloak stands on deck and keeps an arm extended south no matter how the car swerves. It leads the whole imperial column.
17
記裏鼓車，駕四，形制如司南，其中有木人執棰向鼓，行一里則打一棰。
The odometer drum car, four horses, resembles the guide carriage: a wooden figure inside beats a drum once every li traveled.
18
羊車，一名輦車，其上如軺，伏兔箱，漆畫輪軛。 武帝時，護軍羊琇輒乘羊車，司隸劉毅糾劾其罪。
The “goat cart,” also called litter-style wagon, has a light upperworks like a patrol car, hare-shaped boxes, and lacquered wheels. Under Jin Wudi, Guard-general Yang Xiu habitually rode a goat-drawn cart until Liu Yi, metropolitan inspector, charged him for it.
19
畫輪車，駕牛，以彩漆畫輪轂，故名曰畫輪車。 上起四夾杖，左右開四望，綠油幢，硃絲絡，青交路，其上形制事事如輦，其下猶如犢車耳。 古之貴者不乘牛車，漢武帝推恩之末，諸侯寡弱，貧者至乘牛車，其後稍見貴之。 自靈獻以來，天子至士遂以為常乘，至尊出朝堂舉哀乘之。
Ox-drawn “painted-wheel” pleasure wagons take their name from their polychrome hub decoration. They sport corner posts, open viewing bays, green oilcloth canopies, red mesh, and green cross-straps—upperworks like an imperial litter, lower body like a humble ox calf cart. Classical elites scorned ox carts, but after Han’s feudal houses withered under the “extending grace” edicts, impoverished nobles took to them; over time the fashion gained respectability. From the late Eastern Han emperors on, everyone up to the throne routinely used ox carts—even for sovereigns riding to court for obsequies.
20
屬車，一曰副車，一曰貳車，一曰左車。 漢因秦制，大駕屬車八十一乘，行則中央左右分為行。
Escort wagons are also termed deputy cars, second cars, or “left-side” cars in Han usage. Han kept Qin’s rule of eighty-one attendant vehicles for the grand cortège, marching in center, left, and right files.
21
法駕屬車三十六乘。 最後車懸豹尾，豹尾以前比之省中。 屬車皆皁蓋硃裏雲。
The mid-grade statutory escort used thirty-six follow cars. The rearmost car flew a leopard-tail pennant; everything ahead of that marker counted as “within the palace” zone. Each escort wagon wore a black canopy lined red and painted with cloud motifs.
22
御衣車、御書車、禦軺車、禦藥車，皆駕牛。
Luggage trains included robe, book, patrol, and medicine carts, all ox-drawn.
23
陽遂四望繐窗皁輪小形車，駕牛。
Small black-wheeled “yang-sui” survey carts with gauze windows also used ox teams.
24
象車，漢鹵簿最在前。 武帝太康中平吳後，南越獻馴象，詔作大車駕之，以載黃門鼓吹數十人，使越人騎之。 元正大會，駕象入庭。
Han processions once led with an elephant car. After Jin conquered Wu in the Taikang era, Nanyue sent trained elephants; the court built huge wagons, loaded them with palace musicians, and seated southern handlers aloft. New Year audiences opened with elephants paraded into the palace yard.
25
中朝大駕鹵簿
Western Jin capital grand cortège order (heading):
26
先象車，鼓吹一部，十三人，中道。
First comes the elephant wagon and a thirteen-man front band dead center.
27
次靜室令，駕一，中道。 式道候二人，駕一，分左右也。
Then the private-chamber marshal, single car, center file. Two “road rite” inspectors follow in paired cars left and right.
28
次洛陽尉二人，騎，分左右。
Next ride two Luoyang constables, split to the flanks.
29
次洛陽亭長九人，赤車，駕一，分三道，各吹正二人引。
Nine Luoyang ward chiefs in red cars form three columns, each led by two trumpeters.
30
次洛陽令，皁車，駕一，中道。
The Luoyang magistrate follows in a black official car down the center.
31
次河南中部掾，中道。 河橋掾在左，功曹史在右，並駕一。
Then Henan’s central-section adjutant, center lane. River-bridge and merit clerks pair left and right, one car each.
32
次河南尹，駕駟，戟吏六人。
The Henan governor rides a four-horse carriage with six halberd attendants.
33
次河南主簿，駕一，中道。
His chief clerk follows solo in the center.
34
次河南主記，駕一，中道。
Then the chief recorder, same formation.
35
次司隸部河南從事，中道。 都部從事居左，別駕從事居右，並駕一。
Next comes the provincial inspector’s Henan staff officer, center. Capital-section and aide clerks split left/right with one car apiece.
36
次司隸校尉，駕三，戟吏八人。
The provincial commandant uses a three-horse car and eight halberdiers.
37
次司隸主簿，駕一，中道。
His chief clerk rides center behind him.
38
次司隸主記，駕一，中道。
The chief recorder mirrors that slot.
39
次廷尉明法掾，中道。 五官掾居左，功曹史居右，並駕一。
The Court’s law-section adjutant advances down the middle. Five-bureau and merit clerks flank the justice team.
40
次廷尉卿，駕駟，戟吏六人。
The commandant of justice rides four horses with six halberds.
41
次廷尉主簿、主記，並駕一，在左。 太僕引從如廷尉，在中。 宗正引從如廷尉，在右。
Court chief clerk and recorder share a left-side car. The grand coachman’s train matches the court layout, centered. The imperial-clan director mirrors the court on the right.
42
次太常，駕駟，中道，戟吏六人。 太常外部掾居左，五官掾、功曹吏居右，並駕一。
The grand master of rites rides four-in-hand down the axis with six halberds. His external and bureau clerks split the line behind him.
43
次光祿引從，中道。 太常主簿、主記居左，衛尉引從居右，並駕一。
The household superintendent’s escort fills the center next. Ritual clerks ride left while the guard commandant’s party rides right.
44
次太尉外督令史，駕一，中道。
The marshal’s exterior clerk follows solo center.
45
次西東賊倉戶等曹屬，並駕一，引從。
East and west “bandit” and granary bureau aides trail in single cars.
46
次太尉，駕駟，中道。 太尉主簿、舍人各一人，祭酒二人，並駕一，在左。
The grand marshal’s four-horse state coach anchors the center. His chief clerk, chamberlain, and two libationers share left-side mounts.
47
次司徒引從，駕駟，中道。
The grand tutor follows with the same four-horse dignity.
48
次司空引從，駕駟，中道。 三公騎令史戟各八人，鼓吹各一部，七人。
The minister of works repeats the pattern. Each of the three dukes rates eight mounted clerks with halberds plus a seven-man band.
49
次中護軍，中道，駕駟。 鹵簿左右各二行，戟楯在外，弓矢在內，鼓吹一部，七人。
The central army guardian rides four abreast on the axis. His guard forms twin files: shields outward, archers inward, plus a seven-piece band per side.
50
次步兵校尉在左，長水校尉在右，並駕一。 各鹵簿左右二行，戟楯在外，刀楯在內，鼓吹各一部，七人。
Infantry and “long-shore” colonels pair left and right. Each colonel’s screen repeats halberd outer, blade-shield inner, with bands.
51
次射聲校尉在左，翊軍校尉在右，並駕一。 各鹵簿左右各二行，戟楯在外，刀楯在內，鼓吹各一部，七人。
Archery and “assisting army” colonels split the next rank. Their formations mirror the previous pair.
52
次驍騎將軍在左，遊擊將軍在右，並駕一。 皆鹵簿左右引各二行，戟楯在外，刀楯在內，鼓吹各一部，七人。 騎隊，五在左，五在右，隊各五十匹，命中督二人分領左右。 各有戟吏二人，麾幢獨揭，鼓在隊前。
Fierce cavalry and mobile-strike generals take the following slots. Each general’s escort again fields paired files with musicians. Ten cavalry squadrons of fifty mounts each split five and five under two strike directors. Every squadron posts halberd aides, lone streamers, and drums ahead.
53
次左將軍在左，前將軍在右，並駕一。 皆鹵簿左右各二行，戟楯盾在外，刀楯在內，鼓吹各一部，七人。
Left and forward generals ride paired cars next. Their guards add large shields outside, blade shields inside, plus bands.
54
次黃門麾騎，中道。
Yellow-gate mounted escorts tighten the center file.
55
次黃門前部鼓吹，左右各一部，十三人，駕駟。 八校尉佐仗，左右各四行，外大戟楯，次九尺楯，次弓矢，次弩，並熊渠、佽飛督領之。
Palace musicians split thirteen-player bands per side on four-horse wagons. Eight colonels’ guards stack four ranks apiece—great halberds, nine-foot shields, bows, then crossbows—under specialist colonels.
56
次司南車，駕駟，中道。 護駕御史，騎，夾左右。
The guide carriage returns to the axis, four horses. Imperial censors ride flanking the guide car.
57
次謁者僕射，駕駟，中道。
The master of ceremonies for audiences follows four-in-hand.
58
次御史中丞，駕一，中道。
The imperial secretary rides a single state car center.
59
次武賁中郎將，騎，中道。
Next the rapid household guard general canters down the middle.
60
次九游車，中道，武剛車夾左右，並駕駟。
Nine “excursion” cars march center with armored “martial” wagons on both flanks.
61
次雲罕車，駕駟，中道。
The yun-han car repeats, four horses center.
62
次闒戟車，駕駟，中道，長戟邪偃向後。
Halberd-rack cars follow, spears raked rearward.
63
次皮軒車，駕駟，中道。
Leather-screen escort wagons close up the center.
64
次鸞旗車，中道，建華車分左右，並駕駟。
Luan-banner cars hold the axis while twin “splendid blossom” cars fan out.
65
次護駕尚書郎三人，都官郎中道，駕部在左，中兵在右，並騎。 又有護駕尚書一人，騎，督攝前後無常。
Three ministerial escort riders—capital, equipage, and army bureaus—split center, left, and right. A roving ministerial rider coordinates the whole segment.
66
次相風，中道。
A wind-reading device rolls up the center.
67
次司馬督，在前，中道。 左右各司馬史三人引仗，左右各六行，外大戟楯二行。
Marshal supervisors advance at the head of the block. Marshal clerks lead six-deep files with great halberd shields outermost.
68
次九尺楯，次刀楯。
Nine-foot shields precede blade shields.
69
次弓矢，次弩。
Archers step before crossbowmen.
70
次五時車，左右有遮列騎。
Five-season cars ride with cordon cavalry on each side.
71
次典兵中郎，中道，督攝前卻無常。 左殿中御史，右殿中監，並騎。
An arms-bureau officer roves the line regulating pace. Palace censor left, palace intendant right, both ahorse.
72
次高蓋，中道，左罼，右罕。
High umbrellas march center flanked by bi and han feather screens.
73
次御史，中道，左右節郎各四人。
Imperial censors advance on the axis, flanked by four section cadets per side.
74
次華蓋，中道。
A great flowered umbrella follows on the center line.
75
次殿中司馬，中道。 殿中都尉在左，殿中校尉在右，左右各四行。 細楯一行在弩內，又殿中司馬一行，殿中都尉一行，殿中校尉一行。
The palace marshal’s detail rides dead center. Palace commandant left, palace colonel right, each with four ranks of guards. Inside the archers stands a file of light shields, then marshals, commandants, and colonels each in their own row.
76
次扌罡鼓，中道。
Next roll the long-handled processional drums straight down the middle.
77
次金根車，駕六馬，中道。 太僕卿禦，大將軍參乘。 左右又各增三行，為九行。 司馬史九人，引大戟楯二行，九尺楯一行，刀楯一行，由基一行，細弩一行，跡禽一行，椎斧一行，力人刀楯一行。 連細楯，殿中司馬，殿中都尉，殿中校尉，為左右各十二行。 金根車建青旂十二。 左將軍騎在左，右將軍騎在右，殿中將軍持鑿腦斧夾車，車後衣書主職步從，六行，合左右三十二行。
The emperor’s six-horse metal-root car occupies the axis. The grand coachman holds the reins while the grand general sits beside him. Three extra files join each flank, widening the screen to nine deep. Nine adjutants shepherd stacked ranks: great halberds, nine-foot shields, blade shields, elite Youji bowmen, light crossbows, tracker squads, axe parties, and heavy infantry with shields. Light shields tie the formation to palace marshals, commandants, and colonels—twelve files on each side. The imperial car flies twelve green streamers. Left and right generals pace the flanks while palace generals brace the car with axe guards; wardrobe and archive clerks trail on foot in six columns—thirty-two ranks in all.
78
次曲華蓋，中道。 侍中、散騎常侍、黃門侍郎並騎，分左右。
A domed flowered umbrella closes over the sovereign. Palace intimates—attendants-in-ordinary and yellow-gate gentlemen—split left and right on horseback.
79
次黃鉞車，駕一，在左，禦麾騎在右。
A single car bears the gilded axe leftward while standard-bearing riders hold the right.
80
次相風，中道。
Another wind vane marks the center.
81
次中書監騎左，秘書監騎右。
Secretariat and palace library directors bracket the column.
82
次殿中御史騎左，殿中監騎右。
Palace censor to the left, palace intendant to the right.
83
次五牛旗，赤青在左，黃在中，白黑在右。
The five-ox standard returns with its fixed color positions.
84
次大輦，中道。 太官令丞在左，太醫令丞在右。
The great imperial litter follows on the axis. Court caterers ride left, court physicians right of the litter.
85
次金根車，駕駟，不建旗。
A second metal-root car, four horses, flies no tall standards.
86
次青立車，次青安車，次赤立車，次赤安車，次黃立車，次黃安車，次白立車，次白安車，次黑立車，次黑安車，合十乘，並駕駟。 建旗十二，如車色。 立車正豎旗，安東邪拖之。
Ten five-season cars follow in order—green, red, yellow, white, and black, each in standing and seated styles—all four-horse teams. Twelve pennons are dyed to match their cars. Standing cars fly vertical poles; seated cars trail their banners at an angle.
87
次蹋豬車，駕駟，中道，無旗。
The low hunt wagon (pig-tread style) follows four-in-hand, unbannered.
88
次耕根車，駕駟，中道，赤旗十二，熊渠督左，佽飛督右。
The ploughing car rides four abreast with twelve scarlet streamers, flanked by bear-channel and flying-strike colonels.
89
次禦軺車，次禦四望車，次御衣車，次御書車，次禦藥車，並駕牛，中道。
Ox-drawn imperial service wagons—patrol, survey, wardrobe, archive, and pharmacy—string along the center.
90
次尚書令在左，尚書僕射在右，又尚書郎六人，分次左右，並駕。 又治書侍御史二人，分左右，又侍御史二人，分次左右，又蘭台令史分次左右，並騎。
The minister and vice-minister of the masters of writing lead, with six secretaries split to either flank, all riding. Supervising censors, attending censors, and orchid-terrace clerks mirror the same left-right pairing on horseback.
91
次豹尾車，駕一。 自豹尾車後而鹵簿盡矣。 但以神弩二十張夾道，至後部鼓吹。 其五張神弩置一將，左右各二將。
The leopard-tail escort car rides alone. Behind the leopard-tail wagon the formal cortège ends. Yet twenty heavy crossbows still line the route rearward to the trailing bands. Each five-piece battery has its own captain, two captains to a side.
92
次輕車二十乘，左右分駕。
Twenty light wagons split evenly to the flanks.
93
次流蘇馬六十匹。
Sixty horses with silk tassels follow.
94
次金鉞車，駕三，中道。 左右護駕尚書郎並令史，並騎，各一人。
A three-horse gilded-axe car rides center. Ministerial escort riders and clerks bracket the axe car, one rider each side.
95
次金鉦車，駕三，中道。 左右護駕侍御史並令史等，並騎，各一人。
A three-horse gilded gong wagon comes next on the axis. Censorial escorts and clerks mirror the gong car left and right.
96
次黃門後部鼓吹，左右各十三人。
Rear palace bands post thirteen players per flank.
97
次戟鼓車，駕牛，二乘，分左右。 次左大鴻臚外部掾，右五官掾、功曹史，並駕。
Two ox-drawn drum-and-halberd wagons split to the sides. Grand herald aides ride left; five-bureau and merit clerks right.
98
次大鴻臚，駕駟，鉞吏六人。
The grand herald of guests rides four-in-hand with six axemen.
99
次大司農引從，中道，左大鴻臚主簿、主記，右少府引從。
The minister of finance centers the block while herald and household ministers trail their staffs on either side.
100
次三卿，並騎，吏四人，鈴下二人，執馬鞭辟車六人，執方扇羽林十人，硃衣。
The three senior ministers ride with clerks, bell pages, road-clearers with whips, ten feather-fan guards in red.
101
次領軍將軍，中道。 鹵簿左右各二行，九尺楯在外，弓矢在內，鼓吹如護軍。
The commanding general closes the center file. His screen repeats the army-guard pattern—nine-foot shields out, archers in, matched bands.
102
次後軍將軍在左，右將軍在右，各鹵簿鼓吹如左軍、前軍。
Rear and right army generals mirror the left and forward army formations.
103
次越騎校尉在左，屯騎校尉在右，各鹵簿鼓吹如步兵、射聲。
Yue and encampment cavalry colonels copy the infantry and archery colonels’ layouts.
104
次領護驍騎、游軍校尉，皆騎，吏四人，乘馬夾道，都督兵曹各一人，乘馬在中。 騎將軍四人，騎校、鞉角、金鼓、鈴下、信幡、軍校並駕一。 功曹吏、主簿並騎從。 扇幢麾各一騎，鼓吹一部，七騎。
Colonels of fierce and roaming guards ride with clerks lining the avenue while bureau overseers hold the middle. Mounted generals and colonels share cars with drummers, horn players, gongs, pages, signal flags, and adjutants. Chief and merit clerks follow on horseback. Each fan, canopy, and standard gets a rider; bands number seven horsemen.
105
次領護軍，加大車斧，五官掾騎從。
The commanding guardian rides with great cart axes and five-bureau escorts.
106
次騎十隊，隊各五十匹。 將一人，持幢一人，鞉一人，並騎在前，督戰伯長各一人，並騎在後，羽林騎督、幽州突騎督分領之。 郎簿十隊，隊各五十人。 絳袍將一人，騎、鞉各一人，在前，督戰伯長各一人，步，在後。 騎皆持槊。
Ten cavalry troops of fifty mounts apiece follow. Each troop fronts a commander, standard bearer, and drummer, with overseers and chiefs riding rear; forest cavalry and Youzhou shock colonels split leadership. Ten fifty-man gentleman guard companies march behind. Crimson-clad commanders lead mounted drummers while foot overseers bring up the rear. Every rider carries a lance.
107
次大戟一隊，九尺楯一隊，刀楯一隊，弓一隊，弩一隊，隊各五十人。 黑袴褶將一人，騎校、鞉角各一人，步，在前，督戰伯長各一人，步，在後。 金顏督將並領之。
Infantry blocks follow: halberdiers, nine-foot shieldmen, blade shields, bowmen, and crossbowmen—fifty each. Black-uniform commanders head each block with mounted colonels and horn players ahead, overseers afoot behind. Inspector colonels (gold-visored officers) jointly command these files.
108
皇太子安車，駕三，左右騑。 硃班輪，倚獸較，伏鹿軾。 九旒，畫降龍。 青蓋，金華蚤二十八枚。 黑文畫轓，文輈，黃金塗五采。 亦謂之鸞路。 非法駕則乘畫輪車，上開四望，綠油幢，硃絲繩絡，兩箱裏飾以金錦，黃金塗五采。 其副車三乘，形制如所乘，但不畫輪耳。
The crown prince’s seated carriage uses three horses with outriggers. Vermillion-flecked wheels, animal-carved leaning rails, and a deer motif on the front shield. Nine streamers bear painted descending dragons. A green canopy carries twenty-eight gilded rib caps. Black scrollwork trims the fenders; the pole is patterned and gilded in five colors. Courtiers also call it the heir’s “luan” carriage. On informal outings he uses the painted-wheel survey car—open galleries, green canopy, red mesh, gold brocade lining the boxes, polychrome gilding. Three escort cars match his train except their wheels stay unpainted.
109
王青蓋車，皇孫綠蓋車，並駕三，左右騑。
Princes ride green-canopy cars; imperial grandsons use a greener shade—both three-horse with outriggers.
110
雲母車，以雲母飾犢車。 臣下不得乘，以賜王公耳。
The “mica wagon” plates a calf cart with mica panels. Only kings and dukes receive this honor; lower ranks may not use it.
111
皁輪車，駕四牛，形制猶如犢車，但皁漆輪轂，上加青油幢，硃絲繩絡。 諸王三公有勳德者特加之。 位至公或四望、三望、夾望車。
The black-wheel ox cart resembles a calf car but for jet-black wheels, green oilcloth roof, and red mesh. The throne awards it only to meritorious princes and three excellencies. Dukes may graduate to multi-outlook survey wagons as rank allows.
112
油幢車，駕牛，形制如皁輪，但不漆轂耳。 王公大臣有勳德者特給之。
Oil-canopy ox carts match black-wheel style except the hubs stay plain. Meritorious dukes and senior ministers alone receive these vehicles.
113
通幰車，駕牛，猶如今犢車制，但舉其幰通覆車上也。 諸王三公並乘之。
The “through-curtain” ox cart works like a modern calf car but drapes a continuous awning over the top. All princes and three excellencies may use this type.
114
諸公給朝車駕四、安車黑耳駕三各一乘，皁輪犢車各一乘。 自祭酒掾屬以下及令史，皆皁零，辟朝服。 其武官公又別給大車。
Dukes receive a four-horse court car, a three-horse black-eared peace car, and a black-wheel calf cart apiece. From libationer aides down to archivists everyone rides black-canopied carts and wears full court robes. Generals who hold ducal rank also receive heavy supply wagons.
115
特進及車騎將軍驃騎將軍以下諸大將軍不開府非持節都督者，給安車黑耳駕二，軺車施耳後戶一乘。
Senior nobles and full generals short of independent commands get two-horse peace cars plus a single patrol wagon with ear screens and a rear door.
116
三公、九卿、中二千石、二千石、河南尹、謁者僕射、郊廟明堂法出，皆大車立乘，駕駟。 前後導從大車駕二，右騑。 他出乘安車。 其去位致仕告老，賜安車駟馬。
For state rituals the three dukes, nine ministers, full two-thousand-bushel officials, the Luoyang governor, and the master of ceremonies ride standing in four-horse state wagons. Their escorts use two-horse wagons with a right outrigger. On ordinary business they switch to seated carriages. Retiring officials receive a honorific four-horse peace car.
117
郡縣公侯，安車駕二，右騑。 皆硃班輪，倚鹿較，伏熊軾，黑輜，皁繒蓋。
County-level nobles ride two-horse peace cars with a right trace. Their cars share vermilion-flecked wheels, deer-carved rails, bear motifs on the shield, black coachwork, and sable canopies.
118
公旗旂八旒，侯七旒，卿五旒，皆畫降龍。
Ducal standards carry eight streamers, marquis seven, minister five—each with descending dragons.
119
中二千石、二千石，皆皁蓋，硃兩轓，銅五采，駕二。 中二千石以上，右騑。 千石、六百石，硃左轓。 車轓長六尺，下屈廣八寸，上業廣尺二寸，九丈，十二初，後謙一寸，若月初生，示不敢自滿也。
Two-thousand-bushel officials use black tops, red paired fenders, bronze five-color trim, and two-horse teams. Full two-thousand ranks add a right-side outrigger. Lower salaried ranks mark only the left fender in vermilion. Fenders measure six chi along the curve, eight cun at the bend, twelve cun at the crown, with nine-zhang silk and twelve pleats; the rear tip cuts inward one cun like a new moon to symbolize modesty.
120
王公之世子攝命理國者，安車，駕三，旗旂七旒，其封侯之世子五旒。
Princely heirs who govern draw three-horse peace cars with seven streamers; marquis’ heirs use five.
121
太康四年，制：「依漢故事，給九卿朝車駕四及安車各一乘。」 八年，詔：「諸尚書軍校加侍中常侍者，皆給傳事乘軺車，給劍，得入殿省中，與侍臣升降相隨。」
Taikang year four issued: “Follow Han practice—grant each of the nine ministers a four-horse court wagon plus one peace car.” Eight years later an edict added: “Secretariat army aides who also hold attendant-in-ordinary titles receive fast patrol cars and swords so they may enter palace corridors and move with the inner court.”
122
大使車，立乘，駕四，赤帷裳，騶騎導從。 舊公卿二千石郊廟上陵從駕，乘大使車，他出乘安車也。
Senior envoys use tall four-horse cars with crimson drapery and mounted escorts opening the road. Han rules had two-thousand-bushel nobles stand in the great envoy wagon for state sacrifices and tomb rites, then switch to seated cars elsewhere.
123
小使車，不立乘，駕四，輕車之流也。 蘭輿皆硃，赤轂，赤屏泥，白蓋，赤帷裳，從騶騎四十人。 又別有小使車，赤轂皁蓋，追捕考案有所執取者之所乘也。 凡諸使車皆硃班輪，赤衡軛。
The “small envoy” model is a seated four-horse light carriage. “Orchid” escort wagons are scarlet with red wheels, white tops, red hangings, and forty outriders. A darker variant with black canopy serves police inspectors on arrests and inquests. All official messenger cars share vermilion-flecked wheels and red yoke hardware.
124
追鋒車，去小平蓋，加通幰，如軺車，駕二。 追鋒之名，蓋取其迅速也，施於戎陣之間，是為傳乘。
“Swift-fringe” couriers strip the small roof for a full awning like a patrol car and use two horses. The name signals speed; on campaign it serves as the dash relay vehicle.
125
軺車，古之時軍車也。 一馬曰軺車，二馬曰軺傳。 漢世貴輜軿而賤軺車，魏晉重軺車而賤輜軿。 三品將軍以上、尚書令軺車黑耳有後戶，僕射但有後戶無耳，並皁輪。 尚書及四品將軍則無後戶，漆轂輪。 其中書監令如僕射，侍中、黃門、散騎，初拜及謁陵廟，亦得乘之。
Patrol cars descend from Han military runabouts. One-horse models are “patrol cars”; paired teams are “patrol relays.” Han fashion favored closed sedans; Wei–Jin reversed the prestige to light patrol cars. Generals of third rank and the minister of state get black-eared patrol cars with back doors; vice ministers lose the “ears” but keep the rear hatch—all on black wheels. Fourth-rank officers ride simpler patrol wagons without rear doors but lacquered hubs. Secretariat directors, attendants-in-ordinary, and yellow-gate nobles may use these cars for first appointments and tomb pilgrimages.
126
皇太后、皇后法駕，乘重翟羽蓋金根車，駕青輅，青帷裳，雲畫轅，黃金塗五采，蓋爪施金華，駕三，左右騑。 其廟見小駕，則乘紫罽軿車，雲畫輈，黃金塗五采，駕三。 非法駕則皇太后乘輦，皇后乘畫輪車。 皇后先蠶，乘油畫雲母安車，駕六騩馬； 騩，淺黑色。 油畫兩轅安車，駕五騩馬，為副。 又，金薄石山軿、紫絳罽軿車，皆駕三騩馬，為副。 女旄頭十二人，持棨戟二人，共載安車，儷駕。 女尚輦十二人，乘輜車，儷駕。 女長禦八人，乘安車，儷駕。 三夫人油軿車，駕兩馬，左騑。 其貴人駕節畫輈。 三夫人助蠶，乘青交路，安車，駕三，皆以紫絳罽軿車。 九嬪世婦乘軿車，駕三。
The two highest ladies ride stacked kingfisher canopies on metal-root frames, green ritual cars, cloud-painted poles, gilded fittings, three gray horses with outriggers. For lesser ritual they switch to purple felt sedans with three-horse teams. Informal outings put the dowager in a litter and the empress in a painted-wheel survey car. The silkworm ceremony uses an oil-painted mica peace car with six dapple-gray mounts; “Gui” denotes blue-black horses. A five-horse twin-shaft duplicate trails as escort. Gold-foil “stone mountain” sedans and purple felt cars follow with three-horse teams. Twelve female yak-tail runners pair-drive a support peace car with two halberdiers aboard. Twelve litter maids ride closed wagons in paired teams. Eight senior maids drive their own peace cars, paired. The three chief consorts use oilcloth sedans, two horses plus a left outrigger. Lower-ranked noble ladies get simpler pole decoration. At the consorts’ silkworm aid they take green-banded three-horse peace cars with purple felt duplicates. Nine concubines and chief wives ride three-horse sedans.
127
長公主赤罽軿車，駕兩馬。 公主、王太妃、王妃，皆油軿車，駕兩馬，右騑。 公主油畫安車，駕三，青交路，以紫絳罽軿車駕三為副，王太妃、三夫人亦如之。 公主助蠶，乘油畫安車，駕三。 公主有先置者，乘青交路安車，駕三。
Senior princesses use crimson felt two-horse sedans. Imperial princesses and princely consorts take oilcloth sedans with two horses and a right trace. Princesses’ formal three-horse cars match grand consorts’ and chief consorts’ purple felt escorts. Princesses at the silkworm rite use three-horse painted peace cars. Princesses already invested ride green-banded three-horse peace wagons.
128
諸王妃、公太夫人、夫人、縣鄉君、諸郡公侯特進夫人助蠶，乘皁交路安車，駕三。
Princely consorts through county noblewomen ride black-banded three-horse peace cars at silkworm.
129
諸侯監國世子之世婦、侍中常侍尚書中書監令卿校世婦、命婦助蠶，乘皁交路安車，儷駕。
Heirs’ wives and high inner-court ladies use black-banded peace cars with paired teams.
130
郡縣公侯、中二千石、二千石夫人會朝及蠶，各乘其夫之安車，皆右騑，皁交路，皁帷裳。 自非公會則不得乘軺車，止乘漆布輜軿，銅五采而已。
Noblewives attend court and silkworm in their husbands’ two-horse peace cars with black trim and right outriggers. Outside assemblies they must use lacquered cloth sedans, not patrol cars.
131
王妃、特進夫人、封郡君，安車，駕三，皁交路。 封縣鄉君油軿車，駕兩馬，右騑。
High consorts and commandery ladies rate three-horse black-banded peace cars. County-level titled women use oilcloth two-horse sedans with right traces.
132
自過江之後，舊章多缺。 元帝踐極，始造大路、戎路各一，皆即古金根之制也，無復充庭之儀。 至於郊祀大事，則權飾余車以周用。 六師親征則用戎路，去其蓋而乘之，屬車但五乘而已。 加綠油幢，硃絲路，飾青交路，黃金塗五采，其輪轂猶素，兩箱無金錦之飾。 其一車又是軺車，舊儀，天子所乘駕六，是時無復六馬之乘，五路皆駕四而已，同用黑，是為玄牡。 無復五時車，有事則權以馬車代之，建旗其上。 其後但以五色木牛象五時車，豎旗于牛背，行則使人輿之。 牛之義，蓋取其負重致遠安而穩也。 旗常纏而不舒旆，所謂德車結旌者也。 惟天子親戎，五旗舒旆，所謂武車綏旌者也。 指南車，過江亡失，及義熙五年，劉裕屠廣固，始復獲焉，乃使工人張綱補緝周用。 十三年，裕定關中，又獲司南、記裏諸車，制度始備。 其輦，過江亦亡制度，太元中謝安率意造焉，及破苻堅於淮上，獲京都舊輦，形制無差，大小如一，時人服其精記。 義熙五年，劉裕執慕容超，獲金鉦輦、豹尾，舊式猶存。
Once the court fled south, most old sumptuary rules collapsed. Emperor Yuan commissioned one great chariot and one war car on old metal-root lines but skipped the full Han panoply. Major suburban rites borrowed patched-up spare wagons. Field armies stripped the war car’s roof and cut the escort to five vehicles. Campaign gear added green canopies and red mesh but left wheels plain and sides unbroidered. Even the patrol wagon drew four blacks; the old six-horse emperor’s team vanished—everything went four-in-hand in ink-dark bays. Five-season colors gave way to improvised carts flying temporary standards. Later designers painted wooden ox teams to mimic the old five-color parade. Oxen again symbolized steady haulage. Pennants stayed furled—the “virtue car” look. Only the emperor at war spread all five battle streamers. The guide car sank in the retreat until Liu Yu’s Yixi sack of Guanggu recovered one for Zhang Gang to rebuild. Thirteen years later Liu Yu’s Guanzhong campaign brought back odometer cars, completing the set. Litters were reinvented by Xie An until a captured Luoyang litter proved his memory flawless. Yixi five’s capture of Murong Chao yielded gilded gong litters and leopard-tail regalia intact.
133
元帝太興三年，皇太子釋奠。 制曰：「今草創，未有高車，可乘安車也。」 太元中，東宮建，乘路有青赤旂，致疑。 徐邈議，太子既不備五路，赤旂宜省。 漢制，太子鸞路皆以安車為名。 自晉過江，禮儀疏舛，王公以下，車服卑雜，惟有東宮禮秩崇異，上次辰極，下納侯王。 而安帝為皇太子乘石山安車，制如金路，義不經見，事無所出。
Taixing year three saw the crown prince’s Confucian ceremony. The edict admitted: “We are still improvising—use peace cars until tall state coaches exist.” Later, when the heir got his own chariots, mixed green and red standards confused ritualists. Xu Miao ruled the prince should drop scarlet banners without the full five-car set. Han had always called the heir’s ritual car a peace-style luan. Southern Jin dress codes frayed for everyone except the heir, whose regalia alone rivaled the throne. An Di’s odd stone-mountain peace car aping the metal lu lacked classical warrant.
134
中宮初建及祀先蠶，皆用法駕，太僕妻禦，大將軍妻參乘，侍中妻陪乘，丹陽尹建康令及公卿之妻奉引，各乘其夫車服，多以宮人權領其職。
Empress silkworm rites drafted noblewomen as drivers and outriders—coachmen’s wives at the reins, generals’ wives beside them, magistrates’ wives clearing the way, often palace women standing in.
135
《周禮》，弁師掌六冕，司服掌六服。 自後王之制爰及庶人，各有等差。 及秦變古制，郊祭之服皆以袀玄，舊法掃地盡矣。 漢承秦弊，西京二百餘年猶未能有所制立。 及中興後，明帝乃始采《周官》、《禮記》、《尚書》及諸儒記說，還備袞冕之服。 天子車乘冠服從歐陽氏說，公卿以下從大小夏侯氏說，始制天子、三公、九卿、特進之服，侍祠天地明堂，皆冠旒冕，兼五冕之制，一服而已。 天子備十二章，三公諸侯用山龍九章，九卿以下用華蟲七章，皆具五采。 魏明帝以公卿袞衣黼黻之飾，疑於至尊，多所減損，始制天子服刺繡文，公卿服織成文。 及晉受命，遵而無改。 天子郊祀天地明堂宗廟，元會臨軒，黑介幘，通天冠，平冕。 冕，皁表，硃綠裏，廣七寸，長二尺二寸，加于通天冠上，前圓後方，垂白玉珠，十有二旒，以硃組為纓，無緌。 佩白玉，垂珠黃大旒，綬黃赤縹紺四采。 衣皁上，絳下，前三幅，後四幅，衣畫而裳繡，為日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲、藻、火、粉米、黼、黻之象，凡十二章。 素帶廣四寸，硃裏，以硃綠裨飾其側。 中衣以絳緣其領袖。 赤皮為韍，絳袴襪，赤舄。 未加元服者，空頂介幘。 其釋奠先聖，則皁紗袍，絳緣中衣，絳袴襪，黑舄，其臨軒，亦袞冕也。 其朝服，通天冠高九寸，金博山顏，黑介幘，絳紗袍，皁緣中衣。 其拜陵，黑介幘，單衣。 其雜服，有青赤黃白緗黑色，介幘，五色紗袍，五梁進賢冠，遠遊冠，平上幘武冠。 其素服，白㡊單衣。 後漢以來，天子之冕，前後旒用真白玉珠。 魏明帝好婦人之飾，改以珊瑚珠。 晉初仍舊不改。 及過江，服章多闕，而冕飾以翡翠珊瑚雜珠。 侍中顧和奏：「舊禮，冕十二旒，用白玉珠。 今美玉難得，不能備，可用白璿珠。」 從之。
Zhou ritual split crown and robe oversight between two ministries. Every rank down to commoners once had fixed wardrobe rules. Qin’s plain black sacrifice robes erased Zhou splendor. Western Han still had no stable court wardrobe two centuries on. Eastern Han Ming Di rebuilt sacrificial dress from Zhou texts and scholars’ notes. Ming Di split sources—Ouyang for the emperor, Xiahou masters for officials—unifying heaven, earth, and hall rites under one tasseled crown system. The emperor wore twelve symbolic motifs; dukes nine; ministers seven—each in full five-color embroidery. Cao Rui demoted ministerial brocade to woven patterns while reserving true embroidery for the throne. Jin kept Wei’s wardrobe partition. The Jin emperor wears black frame cap under the tongtian crown and flat sacrificial mian crown for heaven, hall, temple, and New Year. The flat mian crown is black with vermilion-green lining, twelve white jade tassels, round-squared profile, cinnabar ties, no trailing fringe. White jade pendants, yellow tassel strings, four-color sash. The upper robe is dyed with the twelve cosmic emblems; the lower skirt embroiders matching motifs. A four-inch white belt is lined red with vermilion-green edge strips. The under-robe cuffs and collar are piped in scarlet. Red leather kneecaps, scarlet hose, crimson shoes. Uncapped heirs wear open mesh frames. Confucian rites use black gauze with scarlet borders; court audiences revert to full mian regalia. Daily court dress pairs a nine-inch tongtian crown with gold brow plate and scarlet gauze robe. Tomb pilgrimages simplify to black cap and plain robe. Leisure wardrobes span six hues with five-ridge scholar caps, touring caps, and martial headcloths. Mourning dress is white headcloth over unlined coat. Later Han emperors insisted on real white jade beads for the royal mian crown. Cao Rui famously swapped jade for coral beads. Early Jin kept coral. Southern courts patched mian regalia with jadeite and coral mixes. Gu He pleaded: “Classical mian crowns need twelve white jade strands. ” He allowed white spinel substitutes when Hetian jade ran short.” The throne agreed.
136
通天冠，本秦制。 高九寸，正豎，頂少斜卻，乃直下，鐵為卷梁，前有展筒，冠前加金博山述，乘輿所常服也。
The tongtian crown began as Qin court gear. Nine inches tall with iron curl, forward “sounding tube,” and gold brow plate—it is everyday imperial headgear.
137
平冕，王公、卿助祭於郊廟服之。 王公八旒，卿七旒。 以組為纓，色如其綬。 王公衣山龍以下九章，卿衣華蟲以下七章。
Princes and ministers wear the flat mian crown only at joint sacrifices. Princes get eight tassels, chief ministers seven. Tassel cords match each man’s sash colors. Princely robes stop at nine motifs; ministers at seven.
138
遠遊冠，傅玄雲秦冠也。 似通天而前無山述，有展筒橫於冠前。 皇太子及王者後、帝之兄弟、帝之子封郡王者服之。 諸王加官者自服其官之冠服，惟太子及王者後常冠焉。 太子則以翠羽為緌，綴以白珠，其餘但青絲而已。
Fu Xuan traces the “far roaming” cap to Qin fashion. Like tongtian but without the gold brow mountain, with a horizontal tube across the brim. Crown princes, princely heirs, imperial brothers, and sons enfeoffed as kings wear this cap. Princes with extra titles wear those regalia, but heirs and princely successors keep the far-roaming cap daily. The crown prince alone may trail kingfisher and pearl tassels; others use plain silk cords.
139
緇布冠，蔡邕雲即委貌冠也。 太古冠布，齊則緇之。 緇布冠，始冠之冠也。 其制有四形，一似武冠，又一似進賢，其一上方其下如幘顏，其一刺上而方下。 行鄉射禮則公卿委貌冠，以皁絹為之。 形如覆杯，與皮弁同制，長七寸，高四寸。 衣黑而裳素，其中衣以皁緣領袖。 其執事之人皮弁，以鹿皮為之。
Cai Yong identifies the black cloth cap with the classical weimao. Ancient caps were undyed cloth until mourners and fasters switched to black. It is the cap placed at a young noble’s first coming-of-age rite. Ritualists describe four variants—some like martial caps, some like scholar caps, some squared like a headcloth profile. Community archery required black-silk weimao for high nobles. It looks like an upside-down cup, seven by four cun, matching the leather cap mold. Wear black robe, undyed skirt, black-piped under-robe. Officiants switch to soft deer-skin bian caps.
140
進賢冠，古緇布遺象也，斯蓋文儒者之服。 前高七寸，後高三寸，長八寸，有五梁、三梁、二梁、一梁。 人主元服，始加緇布，則冠五梁進賢。 三公及封郡公、縣公、郡侯、縣侯、鄉亭侯，則冠三梁。 卿、大夫、八座，尚書，關中內侯、二千石及千石以上，則冠兩梁。 中書郎、秘書丞郎、著作郎、尚書丞郎、太子洗馬舍人、六百石以下至於令史、門郎、小史、並冠一梁。 漢建初中，太官令冠兩梁，親省禦膳為重也。 博士兩梁，崇儒也。 宗室劉氏亦得兩梁冠，示加服也。
The ridged “worthy” cap descends from the black cloth prototype—standard literati headgear. Its profile slopes from seven cun in front to three behind, with one to five horizontal ridges denoting rank. An emperor’s first capping pairs black cloth with the five-ridge scholar cap. Dukes and marquises of every tier wear three ridges. Senior ministers and two-thousand-bushel ranks take two ridges. Mid- and low-level secretaries and clerks wear the single-ridge cap. Even the imperial chef once rated two ridges when tasting the sovereign’s food. Academicians alone merited two ridges to mark learning. Imperial kinsmen Liu could earn two ridges as a mark of favor.
141
武冠，一名武弁，一名大冠，一名繁冠，一名建冠，一名籠冠，即古之惠文冠。 或曰趙惠文王所造，因以為名。 亦云，惠者蟪也，其冠文輕細如蟬翼，故名惠文。 或云，齊人見千歲涸澤之神，名曰慶忌，冠大冠，乘小車，好疾馳，因象其冠而服焉。 漢幸臣閎孺為侍中，皆服大冠。 天子元服亦先加大冠，左右侍臣及諸將軍武官通服之。 侍中、常侍則加金璫，附蟬為飾，插以貂毛，黃金為竿，侍中插左，常侍插右。 胡廣曰：「昔趙武靈王為胡服，以金貂飾首。 秦滅趙，以其君冠賜侍臣。」 應劭《漢官》云：「說者以為金取剛強，百煉不耗。 蟬居高飲清，口在掖下。 貂內勁悍而外柔縟。」 又以蟬取清高飲露而不食，貂則紫蔚柔潤而毛采不彰灼，金則貴其寶瑩，於義亦有所取。 或以為北土多寒，胡人常以貂皮溫額，後世效此，遂以附冠。 漢貂用赤黑色，王莽用黃貂，各附服色所尚也。
The tall “martial” cap—also called the great cap or cage cap—is the old Huizwen style. Legend credits King Huiwen of Zhao with inventing it. Others derive “hui” from “cicada,” noting the gauze weave mimics wings. Another tale ties it to the marsh spirit Qingji, who raced in a tall cap. Han favorites like Hong Ru sported the great cap at court. Emperors began capping with the great cap, as did generals and close attendants. Palace attendants add gold disks, jade cicadas, and sable plumes—left for attendants-in-ordinary, right for regular attendants. Hu Guang recalled how Zhao Wuling’s “Hu robes” paired with gilded sable hats. Qin seized Zhao’s royal cap style for palace attendants.” Ying Shuo adds that gold symbolizes incorruptibility. Cicadas “drink dew” aloft—an emblem of purity. Sable stands for inner strength beneath a supple pelt.” Later writers piled meanings: cicadas for abstinent purity, sable for modest brilliance, gold for precious integrity. Pragmatists note northern riders wrapped sable across the brow for warmth, which became court fashion. Han favored dark sable; Wang Mang switched to yellow to match his color theory.
142
高山冠，一名側注，高九寸，鐵為卷梁，制似通天。 頂直豎，不斜卻，無山述展筒。 高山者，《詩》云「高山仰止」，取其矜莊賓遠者也。 中外官、謁者、謁者僕射所服。 胡廣曰：「高山，齊王冠也。 傅曰'桓公好高冠大帶'。 秦滅齊，以其君冠賜謁者近臣。」 應劭曰：「高山，今法冠也，秦行人使官亦服之。」 而《漢官儀》云「乘輿冠高山之冠，飛翮之纓」，然則天子亦有時服焉。 《傅子》曰：「魏明帝以其制似通天、遠遊，故改令卑下。」
The “high mountain” or side-tilt cap rises nine cun with an iron roll like tongtian. Unlike tongtian it stands plumb without brow plate or sounding tube. The name quotes the Odes—evoking lofty dignity that keeps onlookers at reverent distance. Heralds and court ushers wear this cap. Hu Guang calls it the old Qi royal cap. Duke Huan of Qi supposedly loved outsized caps and sashes. Qin gave Qi’s kingly cap to palace heralds.” Ying Shuo equates it with the later “law cap” of Qin envoys. Han protocol even shows emperors occasionally donning it with feather tassels. Fu Xuan notes Cao Rui lowered the cap because it rivaled imperial silhouettes.
143
法冠，一名柱後，或謂之獬豸冠。 高五寸，以縰為展筒。 鐵為柱卷，取其不曲撓也。 侍御史、廷尉正監平，凡執法官皆服之。 或謂獬豸神羊，能觸邪佞。 《異物志》云：「北荒之中，有獸名獬豸，一角，性別曲直。 見人鬥，觸不直者。 聞人爭，咋不正者。 楚王嘗獲此獸，因象其形以制衣冠。」 胡廣曰：「《春秋左氏傳》晉侯觀於軍府，見鐘儀，曰'南冠而縶者誰也'？ 南冠即楚冠。 秦滅楚，以其冠服賜執法臣也。」
The “law cap,” or pillar-back hat, is the unicorn-judge style. It stands five cun with a gauze “sounding” tube. Iron stiffeners symbolize unbending justice. Censors and court inspectors wear it as their badge. Myth calls the xiezhi a one-horn ram that gores the unjust. A bestiary places the xiezhi in the northern wastes with a single horn to judge right and wrong. In brawls it butts the guilty party. In quarrels it snaps at the liar. A king of Chu supposedly modeled court dress on the creature.” Hu Guang links it to the “southern cap” prisoner in Zuo’s Commentary. That “southern cap” meant Chu headgear. Qin repurposed Chu’s judge hat for censors.
144
長冠，一名齊冠。 高七寸，廣三寸，漆纚為之，制如版，以竹為裏。 漢高祖微時，以竹皮為此冠，其世因謂劉氏冠。 後除竹用漆纚。 司馬彪曰：「長冠蓋楚制。 人間或謂之鵲尾冠，非也。 救日蝕則服長冠，而祠宗廟諸祀冠之。 此高祖所造，後世以為祭服，尊敬之至也。」
The “long cap” is also called the Qi-style crown. Seven by three cun, board-shaped, built on a bamboo frame with lacquered mesh. Liu Bang invented a bamboo-skin version later nicknamed the Liu family cap. Later makers replaced bamboo with lacquer-soaked silk. Sima Biao traces it to southern Chu fashion. Folk wrongly call it a “magpie tail.” Astronomers wore it for eclipse rites; it became temple dress. As Liu Bang’s creation it became sacrificial headwear of highest respect.
145
建華冠，以鐵為柱卷，貫大銅珠九枚，古用雜木珠，原憲所冠華冠是也。 又《春秋左氏傳》鄭子臧好聚鷸冠，謂建華是也。 祀天地、五郊、明堂，舞人服之。 漢《育命舞》樂人所服。
The ritual “splendor” cap threads nine bronze beads on iron—Yuan Xian’s tall cap was this type. Zuo tells of Zheng prince Zang’s kingfisher “splendor” cap—same family. Altar dancers still wear it for heaven, earth, five directions, and hall rites. Han “Nurture Destiny” musicians used it.
146
方山冠，其制似進賢。 鄭展曰：「方山冠，以五采縠為之。」 漢《大予》、《八佾》、《五行》樂人所服，冠衣各如其行方之色而舞焉。
The square-mountain cap copies the scholar-cap profile. Zheng Zhan describes multicolored gauze panels. Grand Music performers matched cap colors to the five directions.
147
巧士冠，前高七寸，要後相通，直豎。 此冠不常用，漢氏惟郊天，黃門從官四人冠之； 在鹵簿中，夾乘輿車前，以備宦者四星。 或云，掃除從官所服。
The “clever gentleman” cap is a tall straight front-to-back piece. Han emperors used it rarely—four yellow-gate runners at suburban heaven rites. They flanked the chariot to symbolize the four “eunuch” constellations. Others say it marked sweepers in train.
148
卻非冠，高五寸，制似長冠。 宮殿門吏僕射冠之。 負赤幡，青翅燕尾，諸僕射幡皆如之。
The five-inch “reject wrong” cap resembles the long cap. Palace gatekeepers wear it. They carry red swallow-tailed banners like other gate officers.
149
卻敵冠，前高四寸，通長四寸，後高三寸，制似進賢。 凡當殿門衛士服之。
The “repel foe” cap is a compact scholar-cap profile for guards. Hall sentinels at palace doors use it.
150
樊噲冠，廣九寸，高七寸，前後出各四寸，制似平冕。 昔楚漢會於鴻門，項籍圖危高祖，樊噲常持鐵楯，聞急，乃裂裳苞楯，戴以為冠，排入羽營，因數羽罪，漢王乘間得出。 後人壯其意，乃制冠象焉。 凡殿門司馬衛士服之。
Fan Kuai’s cap is nine by seven cun with four-cun brims, shaped like the flat sacrificial crown. At Hongmen Fan Kuai ripped his skirt, wrapped his shield as a makeshift cap, burst into Xiang Yu’s camp, and berated him until Liu Bang slipped away. Later generations immortalized the gesture in a formal cap. Palace gate marshals wear the Fan Kuai style.
151
術氏冠，前圓，吳制，差池四重。 趙武靈王好服之。 或曰，楚莊王復仇冠是也。
The round-front Wu-style “Shu” cap stacks four tiers. Zhao Wuling favored it. Others link it to King Zhuang of Chu’s “vengeance” crown.
152
鶡冠，加雙鶡尾，豎插兩邊。 鶡，鳥名也，形類鷂而微黑，性果勇，其鬥到死乃止。 上党貢之，趙武靈王以表顯壯士。 至秦漢，猶施之武人。
The he warrior cap mounts twin pheasant tails upright. The he is a fierce blackish hawk that fights to the death. Shangdang sent the feathers; Zhao Wuling awarded them to champions. Qin and Han warriors still wore he plumes.
153
皮弁，以鹿皮淺毛黃白色者為之。 《禮》「王皮弁，會五采玉，象邸玉笄」，謂之合皮為弁。 其縫中名曰會，以采玉硃為。 ，結也。 天子五采，諸侯三采。 邸，冠下抵也，象骨為之，音帝也。 天子則縫十二，公侯伯七，子男五，孤四，卿大夫三。
The bian cap uses pale yellow deerskin. The Rites describe the king’s bian seamed with five-color jade and ivory hairpins. The crown seam junction is called the hui, inlaid with colored jade. The following gloss reads “fastened,” explaining the hairpin’s knot. Emperors use five jade hues; lords three. The “di” block under the cap is carved ivory, homophone to “emperor.” Seam counts mark rank—twelve for the throne down to three for ministers.
154
韋弁，制似皮弁，頂上尖，韎草染之，色如淺絳。
The leather bian resembles the deer cap but peaks sharper, dyed pink-crimson with wei herb.
155
爵弁，一名廣冕。 高八寸，長尺二寸，如爵形，前小後大。 增其上似爵頭色。 有收持笄，所謂夏收殷哻者也。 祠天地、五郊、明堂，《雲翹舞》樂人服之。
The “duke” bian is also called the broad sacrificial crown. It stands eight cun, spans a foot two, shaped like a ritual jue cup—narrow in front, broad behind. The crown mimics the flared lip of a bronze jue. It keeps the ancient hairpin loops associated with Xia and Shang court caps. Altar dancers in the “Cloud Wing” suite wear this crown.
156
幘者，古賤人不冠者之服也。 漢元帝額有壯發，始引幘服之。 王莽頂禿，又加其屋也。 《漢注》曰，冠進賢者宜長耳，今介幘也。 冠惠文者宜短耳，今平上幘也。 始時各隨所宜，遂因冠為別。 介幘服文吏，平上幘服武官也。 童子幘無屋者，示不成人也。 又有納言幘，幘後收又一重，方三寸。 又有赤幘，騎吏、武吏、乘輿鼓吹所服。 救日蝕，文武官皆免冠著幘，對朝服，示武威也。
The ze was originally headwrap for commoners barred from formal caps. Emperor Yuan of Han hid a prominent hairline with a ze wrap, starting a fad. Wang Mang stacked a higher roof to cover his bald crown. Han notes pair long “ears” with scholar caps—ancestors of the stiff court ze. Martial Huizwen caps use short ears—the level-top ze line. Styles diverged until cap type dictated ze shape. Civil versus military headwraps became fixed. Boys wear roofless zes until capping. Palace “inner edict” zes add a triple-cun rear fold. Red zes mark outriders, guards, and imperial bands. During eclipse rites everyone doffed caps for red zes over court robes as a martial gesture.
157
漢儀，立秋日獵，服緗幘。 及江左，哀帝從博士曹弘之等議，立秋禦讀令，改用素白㡊。 案漢末王公名士多委王服，以幅巾為雅，是以袁紹、崔鈞之徒，雖為將帥，皆著縑巾。 魏武以天下凶荒，資財乏匱，擬古皮弁，裁縑帛以為㡊，合乎簡易隨時之義，以色別其貴賤，本施軍飾，非為國容也。 徐爰曰：「俗說㡊本未有岐，荀文若巾之行，觸樹枝成岐，謂之為善，因而弗改。」 今通以為慶吊服。
Han autumn hunts required buff-colored zes. Eastern Jin Ai Di switched Liqiu court dress to plain white scarves per scholars’ advice. Late Han elites favored simple headcloths—even generals like Yuan Shao wore plain silk wraps. Cao Cao issued colored silk “kerchief-caps” during famine to simplify military dress, not formal regalia. Xu Ai tells how Xun Yu’s kerchief snagged into lucky forked tails that became fashion.” Later society adopted forked kerchiefs for both joyous and funerary wear.
158
巾，以葛為之，形如㡊而橫著之，古尊卑共服也。 故漢末妖賊以黃為巾，世謂黃巾賊。
Ge-cloth scarves, worn sideways like caps, were once universal. Hence the Yellow Turbans took their name from saffron scarves.
159
帽名猶冠也，義取于蒙覆其首，其本纚也。 古者冠無幘，冠下有纚，以繒為之。 後世施幘於冠，因或裁纓為帽。 自乘輿宴居，下至庶人無爵者皆服之。 成帝咸和九年，制聽尚書八座丞郎、門下三省侍官乘車，白㡊低幃，出入掖門。 又，二宮直官著烏紗㡊。 然則往往士人宴居皆著㡊矣。 而江左時野人已著帽，人士亦往往而然，但其頂圓耳，後乃高其屋雲。
“Hat” functionally replaced “crown,” evolving from hair mesh. Early crowns used silk hairnets instead of zes. Later courts fused ze with crown and tailored brimmed hats. Everyone from the emperor at leisure to commoners wears soft hats. Xianhe nine let senior clerks ride through side gates in white scarves and low screens. Palace watch officers don black gauze caps. Soon every scholar lounged in kerchief caps. Southerners borrowed peasants’ round hats, then heightened the crown for fashion.
160
漢制，自天子至於百官，無不佩劍，其後惟朝帶劍。 晉世始代之以木，貴者猶用玉首，賤者亦用蚌、金銀、玳瑁為雕飾。
Han once required swords for all ranks; later only court audiences kept the habit. Jin switched to wooden blades with jade or shell hilts by rank.
161
乘輿六璽，秦制也。 曰「皇帝行璽」、「皇帝之璽」、「皇帝信璽」、「天子行璽」、「天子之璽」、「天子信璽」，漢遵秦不改。 又有秦始皇藍田玉璽，螭獸紐，在六璽之外，文曰「受天之命，皇帝壽昌」。 漢高祖佩之，後世名曰傳國璽，與斬白蛇劍俱為乘輿所寶。 斬白蛇劍至惠帝時武庫火燒之，遂亡。 及懷帝沒胡，傳國璽沒于劉聰，後又沒于石勒。 及石季龍死，胡亂，穆帝世乃還江南。
Six imperial jades follow Qin precedent. The six mottoes—three for “emperor,” three for “Son of Heaven”—survived unchanged from Qin into Han. Beyond the six sits the Lantian jade heirloom with horned-dragon knob and cosmic motto. Liu Bang claimed both the “transmission seal” and the snake sword as regalia. The fabled sword burned in Wei’s Luoyang armory conflagration. The seal passed from Jin captivity to Liu Cong, then Shi Le. It resurfaced in the south only after Shi Hu’s death and turmoil.
162
革帶，古之鞶帶也，謂之鞶革，文武眾官牧守丞令下及騶寺皆服之。 其有囊綬，則以綴於革帶，其戎服則以皮絡帶代之。 八坐尚書荷紫，以生紫為袷囊，綴之服外，加于左肩。 昔周公負成王，制此服衣，至今以為朝服。 或云漢世用盛奏事，負之以行，未詳也。
The leather “pan” belt girds everyone from magistrates to outriders. Civil belts carry purple sash bags; field dress swaps in leather mesh. Senior ministers wear purple document pouches slung from the left shoulder. Myth credits the Zhou regent’s baby-carrying sash for today’s court pouch. Others say Han clerks slung memorial tubes there—uncertain.
163
車前五百者，卿行旅從，五百人為一旅。 漢氏一統，故去其人，留其名也。
“Five hundred front” recalled a full brigade escorting ministers. Han kept the title after disbanding the real five-hundred guard.
164
袴褶之制，未詳所起，近世凡車駕親戎、中外戒嚴服之。 服無定色，冠黑帽，綴紫摽，摽以繒為之，長四寸，廣一寸，腰有絡帶以代鞶。 中官紫摽，外官絳摽。 又有纂嚴戎服而不綴摽，行留文武悉同。 其畋獵巡幸，則惟從官戎服帶鞶革，文官不下纓，武官脫冠。
Military tunics and riding breeches appear for imperial campaigns and palace alerts. Alert dress uses black hats with purple silk markers and mesh waistbands. Palace staff wear purple tabs; field officers crimson. Full mobilization dress drops the streamer tags but otherwise matches. On hunts, civil aides keep tassels up while soldiers shed formal caps.
165
漢制，一歲五郊，天子與執事者所服各如方色，百官不執事者服常服絳衣以從。 魏秘書監秦靜曰：「漢氏承秦，改六冕之制，但玄冠絳衣而已。」 魏已來名為五時朝服，又有四時朝服，又有朝服。 自皇太子以下隨官受給。 百官雖服五時朝服，據今止給四時朝服，闕秋服。 三年一易。
Han suburban rounds color-coded officiants while others wore plain crimson. Qin Jing noted Han simplified Zhou’s six crowns to black cap and red robe.” Wei–Jin codified “five-season” and “four-season” court wardrobes. Ranks down to the heir draw costumes by appointment. Jin budgets skipped autumn palettes despite five-season theory. Sets renew triennially.
166
諸假印綬而官不給鞶囊者，得自具作，其但假印不假綬者，不得佩綬鞶，古制也。 漢世著鞶囊者，側在腰間，或謂之傍囊，或謂之綬囊，然則以紫囊盛綬也。 或盛或散，各有其時。
Acting officials without formal sashes may not wear ribbon belts. Han hung purple “side pouches” for credential tubes. Full or empty pouches followed seasonal rules.
167
笏，古者貴賤皆執笏，其有事則搢之於腰帶，所謂搢紳之士者，搢笏而垂紳帶也。 紳垂長三尺。 笏者，有事則書之，故常簪筆，今之白筆是其遺象。 三台五省二品文官簪之，王、公、侯、伯、子、男、卿尹及武官不簪，加內侍位者乃簪之。 手版即古笏矣。 尚書令、僕射、尚書手版頭復有白筆，以紫皮裹之，名曰笏。
All ranks once carried hu tablets tucked in sashes—“gentry” literally meant tablet and sash. Ceremonial sashes trail three chi. Tablets doubled as note boards—hence the white brush pin survives. Only high civil bureaus and inner-court add-ons wear brush pins. The board-shaped hu is the old tablet. Ministers of state cap their hu with purple-sheathed white brushes.
168
皇太子金璽龜鈕，硃黃綬，四采：赤、黃、縹、紺。 給五時朝服、遠遊冠，介幘、翠緌。 佩瑜玉，垂組。 硃衣絳紗襮，皁緣白紗，其中衣白曲領。 帶劍，火珠素首。 革帶，玉鉤燮獸頭鞶囊。 其大小會、祠宗廟、朔望、五日還朝皆朝服，常還上宮則硃服，預上宮正會則于殿下脫劍舄。 又有三梁進賢冠。 其侍祀則平冕九旒，袞衣九章，白紗絳緣中單，絳繒韠，采畫織成袞帶，金辟邪首，紫綠二色帶，采畫廣領、曲領各一，赤舄絳襪。 若講，則著介幘單衣。 釋奠，則遠遊冠，玄朝服，絳緣中單，絳袴襪，玄舄。 若未加元服，則中舍人執冕從，介幘單衣玄服。
The crown prince wears gold tortoise seal and four-hued sash. He receives five-season wardrobe, far-roaming cap, stiff ze, kingfisher fringe. He wears flawless jade pendants on silk cords. Scarlet court robe over white gauze with black piping and curved collar. He belts a sword with plain hilt and “fire pearl” ornament. His belt uses jade hooks and beast-head pouch. He changes between full court, palace crimson, and disarmed hall dress by occasion. He also owns the three-ridge scholar cap. Sacrifice calls for nine-tasseled flat crown, nine-dragon robe, layered sashes, and red footgear. For lectures he dons simple ze and robe. Confucian rites use far-roaming cap and black ensemble. Uncapped princes follow with an attendant carrying the mian crown while they wear black ze robes.
169
諸王金璽龜鈕，纁硃綬，四采：硃、黃、縹、紺。 五時朝服，遠遊冠介幘，亦有三梁進賢冠。 硃衣絳紗襮皁緣，中衣表素。 革帶，黑舄，佩山玄玉，垂組，大帶。 若加餘官，則服其加官之服也。
Princes of the blood wear gold tortoise seals and four-color sashes. They mirror the heir’s wardrobe minus certain honors. Their court coat pairs scarlet panels with plain underlayers. Black shoes, mountain-dark jade, and broad sash complete the look. Extra titles bring matching uniforms.
170
皇后謁廟，其服皁上皁下，親蠶則青上縹下，皆深衣制，隱領，袖緣以絛。 首飾則假髻，步搖，俗謂之珠松是也，簪珥。 步搖以黃金為山題，貫白珠為支相繆。 八爵九華，熊、獸、赤羆、天鹿、辟邪、南山豐大特六獸，諸爵獸皆以翡翠為毛羽，金題白珠榼，繞以翡翠為華。 元康六年，詔曰：「魏以來皇后蠶服皆以文繡，非古義也。 今宜純服青，以為永制。」
The empress wears deep black for temples, green-blue for silkworm, piped deep robes. Her hair uses false chignons, buyao tremblers, pins, and earrings. Buyao frames are golden “mountains” strung with white pearls. The crown bristles with jeweled birds and beasts—sparrows, bears, deer, exorcist lions—all feathered in kingfisher and gold. Yuankang six decreed that brocade silkworm gowns broke classical sobriety. Henceforth empresses would wear plain green at silkworm.
171
貴人、夫人、貴嬪，是為三夫人，皆金章紫綬，章文曰貴人、夫人、貴嬪之章。 佩于闐玉。
The three chief consorts carry gold seals on purple ribbons. They mount Khotan jade pendants.
172
淑妃、淑媛、淑儀、修華、修容、修儀、婕妤、容華、充華，是為九嬪，銀印青綬，佩采瓄玉。
Nine ranks of concubines wear silver seals, blue sashes, and mottled jade.
173
貴人、貴嬪、夫人助蠶，服純縹為上與下，皆深衣制。 太平髻，七䥖蔽髻，黑玳瑁，又加簪珥。 九嬪及公主、夫人五䥖，世婦三䥖。 助蠶之義，自古而然矣。
Chief ladies at the silkworm rite wear monochrome blue deep robes. Their hair towers in “great peace” buns with seven pins and tortoiseshell frames. Pin counts drop by rank—five or three jeweled skewers. Silkworm assistance is an immemorial duty of palace women.
174
皇太子妃金璽龜鈕，纁硃綬，佩瑜玉。
The crown princess matches princes’ tortoise seal and sash with fine jade.
175
諸王太妃、妃、諸長公主、公主、封君金印紫綬，佩山玄玉。
Princely consorts and titled princesses share gold-on-purple with dark jade.
176
長公主、公主見會，太平髻，七䥖蔽髻。 其長公主得有步搖，皆有簪珥，衣服同制。 自公主、封君以上皆帶綬，以彩組為緄帶，各如其綬色，金辟邪首為帶玦。
At audiences princesses don the great-peace bun with seven jeweled pins. Senior princesses who earn buyao tremblers also receive pins and earrings under the same wardrobe code. Princesses and titled noblewomen belt formal sashes with color-matched cord trim and gilded bixie belt toggles.
177
郡公侯縣公侯太夫人，夫人銀印青綬，佩水蒼玉，其特加乃金紫。
County and commandery ducal consorts normally wear silver on blue with aquamarine jade, unless promoted to gold-and-purple honors.
178
公特進侯卿校世婦、中二千石二千石夫人紺繒幗，黃金龍首銜白珠，魚須擿長一尺為簪珥。 入廟佐祭者皁絹上下。 助蠶者縹絹上下，皆深衣制緣。
High ministers’ wives don dark gauze caps with gold dragon friezes, white pearls, and foot-long “fish-whisker” pins as earrings. Women assisting temple sacrifice wear all-black silk deep robes. Silkworm helpers wear bordered light-blue deep gowns.
179
自二千石夫人以上至皇后，皆以蠶衣為朝服。
From senior ministers’ wives to the empress, formal court dress means the silkworm vestment set.