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文武官冠服命婦冠服內外官親屬冠服內使冠服侍儀以下冠服士庶冠服樂工冠服軍隸冠服外蕃冠服僧道服色
Caps and dress for civil and military officials; caps and dress for titled ladies; caps and dress for officials' kin, inside and outside the capital; caps and dress for palace eunuchs; caps and dress for ceremonial attendants and those of lower rank; caps and dress for scholars and commoners; caps and dress for musicians; caps and dress for military runners; caps and dress for foreign envoys; Buddhist and Daoist vestments and colors
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文武官朝服:洪武二十六年定凡大祀、慶成、正旦、冬至、聖節及頒詔、開讀、進表、傳制,俱用樑冠,赤羅衣,白紗中單,青飾領緣,赤羅裳,青緣,赤羅蔽膝,大帶赤、白二色絹,革帶,佩綬,白襪黑履。 一品至九品,以冠上樑數為差。 公冠八樑,加籠巾貂蟬,立筆五折,四柱,香草五段,前後玉蟬。 侯七樑,籠巾貂蟬,立筆四折,四柱,香草四段,前後金蟬。 伯七樑,籠巾貂蟬,立筆二折,四柱,香草二段,前後玳瑁蟬。 俱插雉尾。 駙馬與侯同,不用雉尾。 一品,冠七樑,不用籠巾貂蟬,革帶與佩俱玉,綬用黃、綠、赤、紫織成雲鳳四色花錦,下結青絲網,玉綬環二。 二品,六樑,革帶,綬環犀,餘同一品。 三品,五樑,革帶金,佩玉,綬用黃、綠、赤、紫織成雲鶴花錦,下結青絲網,金綬環二。 四品,四樑,革帶金,佩藥玉,餘同三品。 五品,三樑,革帶銀,鈒花,佩藥玉,綬用黃、綠、赤、紫織成盤雕花錦,下結青絲網,銀鍍金綬環二。 一品至五品,笏俱象牙。 六品、七品,二樑,革帶銀,佩藥玉,綬用黃、綠、赤織成練鵲三色花錦,下結青絲網,銀綬環二。 獨御史服獬廌。 八品、九品,一樑,革帶烏角,佩藥玉,綬用黃、綠織成鸂氵鶒二色花錦,下結青絲網,銅綬環二。 六品至九品,笏俱槐木。 其武官應直守衛者,別有服色。 雜職未入流品者,大朝賀、進錶行禮止用公服。 三十年令視九品官,用朝服。 嘉靖八年,更定朝服之制。 樑冠如舊式,上衣赤羅青緣,長過腰指七寸,毋掩下裳。 中單白紗青緣。 下裳七幅,前三後四,每幅三襞積,赤羅青緣。 蔽膝綴革帶。 綬,各從品級花樣。 革帶之後佩綬,系而掩之。 其環亦各從品級,用玉犀金銀銅,不以織於綬。 大帶表裏俱素,惟兩耳及下垂緣綠,又以青組約之。 革帶俱如舊式。 珮玉一如《詩傳》之制,去雙滴及二珩。 其三品以上玉,四品以下藥玉,及襪履俱如舊式。 萬曆五年,令百官正旦朝賀毋僭躡硃履。 故事,十一月百官戴暖耳。 是年朝覲外官及舉人、監生,不許戴暖耳入朝。
On civil and military officials' court dress: In Hongwu 26 (1393) it was fixed that for great sacrifices, celebratory completion rites, New Year's Day, the winter solstice, imperial birthdays, and the promulgation, opening and reading, presentation of memorials, and transmission of edicts, all ranks wore the beam-cap, a red gauze upper robe, a white gauze under-robe with blue-trimmed collar, a red gauze skirt with blue border, a red gauze knee-apron, a great sash of red and white silk, a leather belt, a tassel sash of rank, and white socks with black shoes. From first through ninth rank, rank was distinguished by the number of ridges on the cap. Dukes wore caps of eight ridges, with cage-cap and sable cicada ornament, a standing brush folded five times, four pillars, five segments of fragrant grass, and jade cicada ornaments front and rear. Marquises wore seven ridges, with cage-cap and sable cicada, a standing brush folded four times, four pillars, four segments of fragrant grass, and gold cicada ornaments front and rear. Earls wore seven ridges, with cage-cap and sable cicada, a standing brush folded twice, four pillars, two segments of fragrant grass, and tortoiseshell cicada ornaments front and rear. All three ranks inserted pheasant-tail plumes. Imperial sons-in-law matched marquises but did not wear pheasant-tail plumes. First rank: a cap of seven ridges, without cage-cap or sable cicada; jade leather belt and pendant; a tassel sash woven in yellow, green, red, and purple cloud-and-phoenix brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two jade sash-rings. Second rank: six ridges, leather belt, rhinoceros-horn sash-rings; otherwise the same as first rank. Third rank: five ridges, gold leather belt, jade pendant; tassel sash in yellow, green, red, and purple cloud-and-crane brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two gold sash-rings. Fourth rank: four ridges, gold leather belt, medicinal-jade pendant; otherwise the same as third rank. Fifth rank: three ridges, silver leather belt chased with floral designs, medicinal-jade pendant; tassel sash in yellow, green, red, and purple coiled-flower brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two silver-gilt sash-rings. From first through fifth rank, all court tablets were of ivory. Sixth and seventh ranks: two ridges, silver leather belt, medicinal-jade pendant; tassel sash in yellow, green, and red practice-magpie brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two silver sash-rings. Censors alone bore the xiezhi emblem on their dress. Eighth and ninth ranks: one ridge, black-horn leather belt, medicinal-jade pendant; tassel sash in yellow and green xichi brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two copper sash-rings. From sixth through ninth rank, all court tablets were of locust wood. Military officers on rotating guard duty had separate dress colors. Miscellaneous posts outside the rank stream used only service dress for great court congratulations and the presentation of memorials. In the thirtieth year of Hongwu they were ordered to be treated as ninth-rank officials and to wear court dress. In Jiajing 8 (1529) the regulations for court dress were revised. The beam-cap followed the old style; the upper robe was red gauze with blue border, seven inches below the waist and not to cover the lower skirt. The under-robe was white gauze with blue border. The lower skirt had seven panels—three in front and four behind—with three pleats per panel, in red gauze with blue border. The knee-apron was fastened to the leather belt. The tassel sash followed each rank's prescribed pattern. The tassel sash hung behind the leather belt, tied and folded under it. The sash-rings likewise followed rank, in jade, rhinoceros horn, gold, silver, or copper, and were no longer woven into the sash itself. The great sash was plain inside and out, with green only on the two ears and the hanging border, and was bound with blue cord. Leather belts remained as in the old style. Jade pendants followed the system in the Classic of Poetry commentary, omitting the double drops and the two top pendants. Third rank and above wore jade; fourth rank and below wore medicinal jade; socks and shoes remained as before. In Wanli 5 (1577) officials were forbidden to wear vermilion shoes at the New Year's court congratulations. By precedent, in the eleventh month all officials wore warm ear-covers. That year officials from the provinces attending court, together with examination graduates and students, were forbidden to wear warm ear-covers in court.
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凡親祀郊廟、社稷,文武官分獻陪祀,則服祭服。 洪武二十六年定,一品至九品,青羅衣,白紗中單,俱皁領緣。 赤羅裳,皁緣。 赤羅蔽膝。 方心曲領。 其冠帶、佩綬等差,並同朝服。 又定品官家用祭服。 三品以上,去方心曲領。 四品以下,並去珮綬。 嘉靖八年,更定百官祭服。 上衣青羅,皁緣,與朝服同。 下裳赤羅,皁緣,與朝服同。 蔽膝、綬環、大帶、革帶、佩玉、襪履俱與朝服同。 其視牲、朝日夕月、耕耤、祭歷代帝王,獨錦衣衛堂上官,大紅蟒衣,飛魚,烏紗帽,鸞帶,佩繡春刀。 祭太廟、社稷,則大紅便服。
Whenever the emperor personally sacrificed at the suburban altars, the ancestral temples, or the altars of soil and grain, civil and military officials who divided offerings or accompanied the rite wore sacrificial dress. Fixed in Hongwu 26: from first through ninth rank, a blue gauze upper robe and white gauze under-robe, both with black-trimmed collars. A red gauze skirt with black border. A red gauze knee-apron. A square-heart curved collar-piece. Caps, belts, pendants, and tassel sashes followed the same gradations as court dress. Household sacrificial dress for ranked officials was also fixed. Third rank and above omitted the square-heart curved collar. Fourth rank and below omitted both pendant and tassel sash. In Jiajing 8 the sacrificial dress of all officials was revised. The upper robe was blue gauze with black border, as in court dress. The lower skirt was red gauze with black border, as in court dress. Knee-apron, sash-rings, great sash, leather belt, jade pendant, socks, and shoes all matched court dress. For inspecting sacrificial victims, the rites of the morning sun and evening moon, the sacred ploughing, and sacrifices to successive dynasties' emperors, only senior Brocade Guard hall officers wore great red python robes with flying-fish designs, black gauze caps, luan belts, and embroidered spring knives at the belt. For sacrifices at the Grand Temple and the altars of soil and grain they wore great red informal dress.
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文武官公服:洪武二十六年定,每日早晚朝奏事及侍班、謝恩、見辭則服之。 在外文武官,每日公座服之。 其制,盤領右衽袍,用紵絲或紗羅絹,袖寬三尺。 一品至四品,緋袍; 五品至七品,青袍; 八品九品,綠袍; 未入流雜職官,袍、笏、帶與八品以下同。 公服花樣,一品,大獨科花,徑五寸; 二品,小獨科花,徑三寸; 三品,散答花,無枝葉,徑二寸; 四品、五品,小雜花紋,徑一寸五分; 六品、七品,小雜花,徑一寸; 八品以下無紋。 襆頭:漆、紗二等,展角長一尺二寸; 雜職官襆頭,垂帶,後復令展角,不用垂帶,與入流官同。 笏依朝服為之。 腰帶:一品玉,或花或素; 二品犀; 三品、四品,金荔枝; 五品以下烏角。 襪用青革,仍垂撻尾於下。 靴用皁。 其後,常朝止便服,惟朔望具公服朝參。 凡武官應直守衛者,別有服色,不拘此制。 公、侯、駙馬、伯服色花樣、腰帶與一品同。 文武官花樣,如無從織造,則用素。 百官入朝,雨雪許服雨衣。 奉天、華蓋、武英諸殿奏事,必躡履鞋,違者御史糾之。 萬曆五年,令常朝俱衣本等錦繡服色,其朝覲官見辭、謝恩,不論已未入流,公服行禮。
On civil and military officials' service dress: Fixed in Hongwu 26, it was worn for daily morning and evening audiences, presenting business at court, attending roster duty, thanking for grace, and farewell audiences. Civil and military officials outside the capital wore it daily at their official seats. The garment was a round-collared, right-lapped robe of ramie silk, gauze, silk, or satin, with sleeves three feet wide. First through fourth ranks wore scarlet robes; fifth through seventh ranks wore blue robes; eighth and ninth ranks wore green robes; miscellaneous posts outside the rank stream used the same robe, tablet, and belt as eighth rank and below. Service-dress patterns: first rank, large single-branch flowers five inches across; second rank, small single-branch flowers three inches across; third rank, scattered floral roundels without branches or leaves, two inches across; fourth and fifth ranks, small mixed floral patterns one and a half inches across; sixth and seventh ranks, small mixed flowers one inch across; eighth rank and below had no pattern. Futou headwraps came in lacquered and gauze types, with spread corners one foot two inches long; miscellaneous posts had originally worn futou with hanging ribbons, but were later ordered to use spread corners without ribbons, the same as ranked officials. Court tablets followed the court-dress regulations. Waist belts: first rank, jade, patterned or plain; second rank, rhinoceros horn; third and fourth ranks, gold with lychee design; fifth rank and below, black horn. Socks were of blue leather, with tassel tails still hanging below. Boots were black. Later, regular audiences required only informal dress; service dress was worn fully only on the first and fifteenth of the month. Military officers on rotating guard had separate colors and were not bound by this rule. Dukes, marquises, imperial sons-in-law, and earls used the same colors, patterns, and waist belts as first rank. If officials could not obtain woven patterns, they wore plain cloth. Officials entering court in rain or snow were permitted rain cloaks. When presenting business in the Fengtian, Huagai, and Wuying halls, officials had to wear soft-sole court shoes; violators were impeached by the censors. In Wanli 5 regular audiences required each rank's brocade colors; for farewell and thanksgiving audiences, whether inside or outside the rank stream, service dress was used.
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文武官常服:洪武三年定,凡常朝視事,以烏紗帽、團領衫、束帶為公服。 其帶,一品玉,二品花犀,三品金鈒花,四品素金,五品銀鈒花,六品、七品素銀,八品、九品烏角。 凡致仕及侍親辭閑官,紗帽、束帶。 為事黜降者,服與庶人同。 至二十四年,又定公、侯、伯、駙馬束帶與一品同,雜職官與八品、九品同。 朝官常服禮鞋,洪武六年定。 先是,百官入朝,遇雨皆躡釘靴,聲徹殿陛,侍儀司請禁之。 太祖曰:「古者入朝有履,自唐始用靴。 其令朝官為軟底皮鞋,冒於靴外,出朝則釋之。」
On civil and military officials' regular dress: Fixed in Hongwu 3, for regular audiences and daily business the black gauze cap, round-collared robe, and bound belt served as everyday dress. Belts: first rank jade; second rank patterned rhinoceros horn; third rank gold chased with flowers; fourth rank plain gold; fifth rank silver chased with flowers; sixth and seventh ranks plain silver; eighth and ninth ranks black horn. Retired officials and those leaving office to attend kin wore gauze caps and bound belts. Those demoted for misconduct dressed as commoners. In the twenty-fourth year it was further fixed that dukes, marquises, earls, and imperial sons-in-law used the same belts as first rank, and miscellaneous posts the same as eighth and ninth ranks. Ceremonial shoes for officials' regular dress were fixed in Hongwu 6. Previously, when officials entered court in rain they all wore nailed boots, whose sound echoed through the hall; the Ceremonial Service asked that this be forbidden. The Taizu said, "In antiquity officials wore shoes in court; boots began only in Tang. Let court officials wear soft-soled leather shoes over their boots and remove them when leaving court."
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禮部言近奢侈越制。 詔申禁之,仍參酌漢、唐之制,頒行遵守。 凡職官,一品、二品用雜色文綺、綾羅、彩繡,帽頂、帽珠用玉; 三品至五品用雜色文綺、綾羅,帽頂用金,帽珠除玉外,隨所用; 六品至九品用雜色文綺、綾羅,帽頂用銀,帽珠瑪瑙、水晶、香木。 一品至六品穿四爪龍,以金繡為之者聽。 禮部又議:「品官見尊長,用朝君公服,於理未安。 宜別制樑冠、絳衣、絳裳、革帶、大帶、大白襪、烏舄、佩綬,其衣裳去緣襈。 三品以上佩綬,三品以下不用。」 從之。
The Ministry of Rites reported that luxury and violations of rank had lately increased. An edict reiterated the ban and, drawing on Han and Tang regulations, promulgated rules for all to follow. Ranked officials: first and second ranks used patterned silks, gauze silks, and colored embroidery, with jade cap-tops and cap-beads; third through fifth ranks used patterned silks and gauze silks, with gold cap-tops and cap-beads of whatever material was used besides jade; sixth through ninth ranks used patterned silks and gauze silks, with silver cap-tops and cap-beads of agate, crystal, or fragrant wood. First through sixth ranks might wear four-clawed dragons; gold embroidery was permitted. The Ministry of Rites further argued, "It is improper in principle for ranked officials to greet their elders in the service dress worn when attending the ruler. A separate set should be made: beam-cap, deep-red upper robe and skirt, leather belt, great sash, great white socks, black shoes, and tassel sash, with border pleats removed from the garments. Third rank and above wore the tassel sash; below third rank did not." The proposal was approved.
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二十二年,令文武官遇雨戴雨帽,公差出外戴帽子,入城不許。 二十三年定制,文官衣自領至裔,去地一寸,袖長過手,復回至肘。 公、侯、駙馬與文官同。 武官去地五寸,袖長過手七寸。 二十四年定,公、侯、駙馬、伯服,繡麒麟、白澤。 文官一品仙鶴,二品錦雞,三品孔雀,四品雲雁,五品白鷳,六品鷺鷥,七品鸂氵鶒,八品黃鸝,九品鵪鶉; 雜職練鵲; 風憲官獬廌。 武官一品、二品獅子,三品、四品虎豹,五品熊羆,六品、七品彪,八品犀牛,九品海馬。 又令品官常服用雜色紵絲、綾羅、彩繡。 官吏衣服、帳幔,不許用玄、黃、紫三色,並織繡龍鳳文,違者罪及染造之人。 朝見人員,四時並用色衣,不許純素。 三十年,令致仕官服色與見任同,若朝賀、謝恩、見辭,一體具服。
In the twenty-second year officials were ordered to wear rain hats in rain and hats on public errands outside the capital, but not to wear hats when entering the city. In the twenty-third year the cut was fixed: civil officials' robes from collar to hem stood one inch above the ground, with sleeves past the hands and turned back to the elbow. Dukes, marquises, and imperial sons-in-law followed civil officials. Military officials' robes stood five inches above the ground, with sleeves seven inches past the hands. In the twenty-fourth year it was fixed that dukes, marquises, imperial sons-in-law, and earls wore robes embroidered with qilin and white ze. Civil officials: first rank, immortal crane; second rank, golden pheasant; third rank, peacock; fourth rank, cloud goose; fifth rank, white egret; sixth rank, egret; seventh rank, xichi; eighth rank, yellow oriole; ninth rank, quail; miscellaneous posts, practice magpie; censorial officials, xiezhi. Military officials: first and second ranks, lion; third and fourth ranks, tiger and leopard; fifth rank, bear; sixth and seventh ranks, leopard-cat; eighth rank, rhinoceros; ninth rank, sea horse. Ranked officials were again ordered to use mixed-color ramie silk, gauze silk, and colored embroidery for regular dress. Officials' garments and curtains might not use black, yellow, or purple, nor woven dragon-and-phoenix designs; violators were punished together with those who dyed or wove the cloth. Those attending court wore colored robes in all four seasons and might not wear plain white. In the thirtieth year retired officials were ordered to use the same colors as incumbents; for court congratulations, thanksgiving, and farewell audiences they wore full dress.
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景泰四年,令錦衣衛指揮侍衛者,得衣麒麟。 天順二年,定官民衣服不得用蟒龍、飛魚、斗牛、大鵬、像生獅子、四寶相花、大西番蓮、大雲花樣,並玄、黃、紫及玄色、黑、綠、柳黃、薑黃、明黃諸色。 弘治十三年奏定,公、侯、伯、文武大臣及鎮守、守備,違例奏請蟒衣、飛魚衣服者,科道糾劾,治以重罪。 正德十一年設東、西兩官廳,將士悉衣黃罩甲。 中外化之。 金緋盛服者,亦必加此於上。 都督江彬等承日紅笠之上,綴以靛染天鵝翎,以為貴飾,貴者飄三英,次者二英。 兵部尚書王瓊得賜一英,冠以下教場,自謂殊遇。 其後巡狩所經,督餉侍郎、巡撫都御史無不衣罩甲見上者。 十三年,車駕還京,傳旨,俾迎候者用曳撒大帽、鸞帶。 尋賜羣臣大紅紵絲羅紗各一。 其服色,一品斗牛,二品飛魚,三品蟒,四、五品麒麟,六、七品虎、彪; 翰林科道不限品級皆與焉; 惟部曹五品下不與。 時文臣服色亦以走獸,而麒麟之服逮於四品,尤異事也。
In Jingtai 4 Brocade Guard commanders on guard duty were permitted to wear qilin robes. In Tianshun 2 it was fixed that officials and commoners might not use python dragons, flying fish, fighting bulls, great peng birds, lifelike lions, four-treasure facing flowers, great western lotus, great cloud patterns, or the colors black, yellow, purple, plain black, green, willow yellow, ginger yellow, and bright yellow. In Hongzhi 13 it was memorialized and fixed that dukes, marquises, earls, civil and military ministers, and garrison commanders who improperly petitioned for python or flying-fish robes would be impeached by the censorate and punished severely. In Zhengde 11 the eastern and western guard halls were established, and officers and soldiers all wore yellow surcoats. Court and country followed the fashion. Even those in full gold and scarlet dress added the surcoat on top. Regional commander Jiang Bin and others, atop sun-red hats, attached indigo-dyed swan feathers as a mark of honor: the highest rank wore three plumes, the next rank two. Minister of War Wang Qiong received the gift of one plume and, from his cap to the drill ground, regarded it as a singular honor. Later, wherever the imperial tour passed, grain-supply vice ministers and grand coordinators all wore surcoats when appearing before the emperor. In the thirteenth year, when the imperial carriage returned to the capital, an order was transmitted that those welcoming it should wear trailing-sash robes, great hats, and luan belts. Soon each minister was bestowed a robe of great red ramie silk or gauze. The colors were: first rank, fighting bull; second rank, flying fish; third rank, python; fourth and fifth ranks, qilin; sixth and seventh ranks, tiger and leopard-cat; Hanlin and censorial officials of every rank were included; only ministry clerks below fifth rank were excluded. At the time civil officials also wore running-beast designs, and qilin robes even reached fourth rank—an especially irregular state of affairs.
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十六年,世宗登極詔云:「近來冒濫玉帶,蟒龍、飛魚、斗牛服色,皆庶官雜流並各處將領夤緣奏乞,今俱不許。 武職卑官僭用公、侯服色者,亦禁絕之。」 嘉靖六年復禁中外官,不許濫服五彩裝花織造違禁顏色。
In the sixteenth year, on his accession the Shizong issued an edict: "Lately jade belts, python dragons, flying fish, and fighting-bull colors have been usurped through petitions by miscellaneous low officials and regional generals seeking favor by connection; all are now forbidden. Military officers of low rank who usurped ducal and marquis colors were likewise forbidden. In Jiajing 6 officials throughout the realm were again forbidden to wear five-colored brocades or forbidden colors.
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七年既定燕居法服之制,閣臣張璁因言:「品官燕居之服未有明制,詭異之徒,競為奇服以亂典章。 乞更法古玄端,別為簡易之制,昭布天下,使貴賤有等。」 帝因復製《忠靜冠服圖》頒禮部,敕諭之曰:「祖宗稽古定制,品官朝祭之服,各有等差。 第常人之情,多謹於明顯,怠於幽獨。 古聖王慎之,制玄端以為燕居之服。 比來衣服詭異,上下無辨,民志何由定。 朕因酌古玄端之制,更名『忠靜』,庶幾乎進思盡忠,退思補過焉。 朕已著為圖說,如式製造。 在京許七品以上官及八品以上翰林院、國子監、行人司,在外許方面官及各府堂官、州縣正堂、儒學教官服之。 武官止都督以上。 其餘不許濫服。」 禮部以圖說頒佈天下,如敕奉行。 按忠靜冠仿古玄冠,冠匡如制,以烏紗冒之,兩山俱列於後。 冠頂仍方中微起,三樑各壓以金線,邊以金緣之。 四品以下,去金,緣以淺色絲線。 忠靜服仿古玄端服,色用深青,以紵絲紗羅為之。 三品以上雲,四品以下素,緣以藍青,前後飾本等花樣補子。 深衣用玉色。 素帶,如古大夫之帶制,青表綠緣邊並裏。 素履,青綠絛結。 白襪。
In the seventh year, after the regulations for at-home dress were fixed, Grand Secretary Zhang Cong said, "Ranked officials have no clear regulations for at-home dress, and eccentric persons compete in strange garments that disorder the statutes. I beg that we follow the ancient dark robe in devising a simpler system, proclaim it throughout the realm, and restore proper gradations between high and low. The emperor therefore drew up Illustrations of the Loyal Tranquility Cap and Dress and issued them to the Ministry of Rites, instructing: "Our ancestors consulted antiquity and fixed systems by which ranked officials' court and sacrificial dress each had its gradation. Yet ordinary human nature is careful in public and negligent in private. The ancient sage kings were mindful of this and made the dark robe for at-home dress. Lately clothing has grown bizarre, high and low are indistinguishable, and the people's standards cannot be settled. I have therefore drawn on the ancient dark robe and renamed it Loyal Tranquility, so that in advancing one may think of loyalty and in retiring one may think of correcting faults. I have already drawn up illustrations and explanations; make the garments according to the pattern. In the capital, officials of seventh rank and above, and in the Hanlin Academy, Directorate of Education, and Foreign Envoys Office of eighth rank and above, may wear it; outside the capital, regional officials, prefectural hall officers, district and county chief magistrates, and Confucian instructors may wear it. Military officers are limited to regional commanders and above. All others are forbidden to wear it improperly. The Ministry of Rites proclaimed the illustrations throughout the realm, and all obeyed as ordered. The Loyal Tranquility cap imitated the ancient dark cap: the frame followed regulation, was covered with black gauze, and both mountain-flanges were set at the rear. The crown top remained slightly raised at the square center; three ridges were each bound with gold thread and the border was edged in gold. Fourth rank and below omitted gold and used light-colored silk edging. The Loyal Tranquility robe imitated the ancient dark robe, in deep blue-green ramie silk, gauze, or silk. Third rank and above bore cloud patterns; fourth rank and below were plain; all were bordered in blue-green and bore rank badges front and rear. The deep robe was jade-colored. The plain sash followed the ancient great officer's sash: blue-green on the surface, green border and lining. Plain shoes with blue-green cord ties. White socks.
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十六年,羣臣朝於駐蹕所,兵部尚書張瓚服蟒。 帝怒,諭閣臣夏言曰:「尚書二品,何自服蟒?」 言對曰:「瓚所服,乃欽賜飛魚服,鮮明類蟒耳。」 帝曰:「飛魚何組兩角? 其嚴禁之。」 於是禮部奏定,文武官不許擅用蟒衣、飛魚、斗牛、違禁華異服色。 其大紅紵絲紗羅服,惟四品以上官及在京五品堂上官、經筵講官許服。 五品官及經筵不為講官者,俱服青綠錦繡。 遇吉禮,止衣紅布絨褐。 品官花樣,並依品級。 錦衣衛指揮,侍衛者仍得衣麒麟,其帶俸非侍衛,及千百戶雖侍衛,不許僭用。
In the sixteenth year, when ministers attended court at the temporary residence, Minister of War Zhang Zan wore a python robe. The emperor was angry and told Grand Secretary Xia Yan, "A minister of second rank—why is he wearing python? Yan replied, "What Zhang wears is an imperially bestowed flying-fish robe; it is bright and merely resembles python. The emperor said, "How does a flying fish have two horns woven into it? Forbid it strictly. The Ministry of Rites then memorialized and fixed that civil and military officials might not usurp python robes, flying fish, fighting bulls, or other forbidden splendid colors. Great red ramie, gauze, or silk robes were permitted only to officials of fourth rank and above, to fifth-rank hall officers in the capital, and to Classics Lectern lecturers. Fifth-rank officials and those at the Classics Lectern who were not lecturers all wore blue-green brocade. For auspicious rites they wore only red cloth or fleece-brown garments. Ranked officials' patterns all followed rank. Brocade Guard commanders on guard duty might still wear qilin; those on salary but not on guard, and centurions and sub-officers even if on guard, might not usurp the privilege.
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歷朝賜服:文臣有未至一品而賜玉帶者,自洪武中學士羅復仁始。 衍聖公秩正二品,服織金麒麟袍、玉帶,則景泰中入朝拜賜。 自是以為常。 內閣賜蟒衣,自弘治中劉健、李東陽始。 麒麟本公、侯服,而內閣服之,則嘉靖中嚴嵩、徐階皆受賜也。 仙鶴,文臣一品服也,嘉靖中成國公硃希忠、都督陸炳服之,皆以玄壇供事。 而學士嚴訥、李春芳、董份以五品撰青詞,亦賜仙鶴。 尋諭供事壇中乃用,於是尚書皆不敢衣鶴。 後敕南京織閃黃補麒麟、仙鶴,賜嚴嵩,閃黃乃上用服色也; 又賜徐階教子昇天蟒。 萬曆中,賜張居正坐蟒; 武清侯李偉以太后父,亦受賜。
Imperially bestowed dress through the ages: civil ministers below first rank who received jade belts began with Academician Luo Furen in Hongwu. The Duke of Yansheng, though of orthodox second rank, received woven-gold qilin robes and jade belts when he entered court to bow in Jingtai. This thereafter became customary. Python robes bestowed on the Grand Secretariat began with Liu Jian and Li Dongyang in Hongzhi. Qilin was originally ducal and marquis dress, yet the Grand Secretariat wore it; in Jiajing both Yan Song and Xu Jie received the gift. The immortal crane was first-rank civil dress; in Jiajing the Duke of Chengguo Zhu Xizhong and regional commander Lu Bing wore it because they served at the Mysterious Altar. Yet academicians Yan Ne, Li Chunfang, and Dong Fen, though only fifth rank and composing green lyrics, were also bestowed the immortal crane. Soon it was ordered that only those serving at the altar might wear it, and thereafter ministers dared not wear the crane. Later Nanjing was ordered to weave flashing-yellow patches with qilin and immortal crane and bestow them on Yan Song—flashing yellow being an emperor's color; and Xu Jie was also bestowed a python robe showing a son teaching his father to ascend to heaven. In Wanli, Zhang Juzheng was bestowed a seated-python robe; and Marquis of Wuqing Li Wei, as the empress dowager's father, also received the gift.
13
儀賓朝服、公服、常服:俱視品級,與文武官同,惟笏皆象牙; 常服花樣視武官。 弘治十三年定,郡主儀賓鈒花金帶,胸背獅子。 縣主儀賓鈒花金帶,郡君儀賓光素金帶,胸背俱虎豹。 縣君儀賓鈒花銀帶,鄉君儀賓光素銀帶,胸背俱彪。 有僭用者,革去冠帶,戴平頭巾,於儒學讀書習禮三年。
Ceremonial sons-in-law's court, service, and regular dress all followed rank like civil and military officials, but all court tablets were ivory; regular-dress patterns followed military officials. Fixed in Hongzhi 13: a commandery princess's ceremonial son-in-law wore a chased-flower gold belt and lion badges on chest and back. A county princess's son-in-law wore a chased-flower gold belt; a commandery lady's son-in-law wore plain bright gold; both bore tiger-and-leopard badges. A county lady's son-in-law wore chased-flower silver; a township lady's son-in-law wore plain bright silver; both bore leopard-cat badges. Usurpers were stripped of cap and belt, made to wear a plain headcloth, and sent to a Confucian school to study rites for three years.
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狀元及諸進士冠服:狀元冠二樑,緋羅圓領,白絹中單,錦綬,蔽膝,紗帽,槐木笏,光銀帶,藥玉佩,朝靴,氈襪,皆御前頒賜,上表謝恩日服之。 進士巾如烏紗帽,頂微平,展角闊寸餘,長五寸許,系以垂帶,皁紗為之。 深藍羅袍,緣以青羅,袖廣而不殺。 槐木笏,革帶、青鞓,飾以黑角,垂撻尾於後。 廷試後頒於國子監,傳臚日服之。 上表謝恩後,謁先師行釋菜禮畢,始易常服,其巾袍仍送國子監藏之。
Caps and dress of the top graduate and presented scholars: the top graduate wore a two-ridged cap, scarlet gauze round-collared robe, white silk under-robe, brocade sash, knee-apron, gauze cap, locust-wood tablet, bright silver belt, medicinal-jade pendant, court boots, and felt socks—all bestowed before the throne and worn on the day of the thanksgiving memorial. Presented scholars' caps resembled the black gauze cap, with a slightly flat top, spread corners a little over an inch wide and about five inches long, tied with hanging ribbons of black gauze. A deep blue gauze robe bordered in blue gauze, with wide untapered sleeves. A locust-wood tablet, leather belt with blue girdle decorated in black horn, with tassel tails hanging behind. After the palace examination they were issued at the Directorate of Education and worn on the day of the transmission of felicitations. After the thanksgiving memorial, and after visiting the former teacher and performing the vegetable-release rite, they changed to regular dress; the cap and robe were sent back to the Directorate of Education for storage.
15
命婦冠服:洪武元年定,命婦一品,冠花釵九樹。 兩博鬢,九鈿。 服用翟衣,繡翟九重。 素紗中單,黼領,硃縠逯襈裾。 蔽膝隨裳色,以緅為領緣,加文繡重翟,為章二等。 玉帶。 青襪舄,佩綬。 二品,冠花釵八樹。 兩博鬢,八鈿。 服用翟衣八等,犀帶,餘如一品。 三品,冠花釵七樹。 兩博鬢,七鈿。 翟衣七等,金革帶,餘如二品。 四品,冠花釵六樹。 兩博鬢,六鈿。 翟衣六等,金革帶,餘如三品。 五品,冠花釵五樹。 兩博鬢,五鈿。 翟衣五等,烏角帶,餘如四品。 六品,冠花釵四樹。 兩博鬢,四鈿。 翟衣四等,烏角帶,餘如五品。 七品,冠花釵三樹。 兩博鬢,三鈿。 翟衣三等,烏角帶,餘如六品。 自一品至五品,衣色隨夫用紫。 六品、七品,衣色隨夫用緋。 其大帶如衣色。 四年,以古天子諸侯服袞冕,後與夫人亦服禕翟。 今羣臣既以樑冠、絳衣為朝服,不敢用冕,則外命婦亦不當服翟衣以朝。 命禮部議之。 奏定,命婦以山鬆特髻、假鬢花鈿、真紅大袖衣、珠翠蹙金霞帔為朝服。 以硃翠角冠、金珠花釵、闊袖雜色綠緣為燕居之用。 一品,衣金繡文霞帔,金珠翠妝飾,玉墜。 二品,衣金繡雲肩大雜花霞帔,金珠翠妝飾,金墜子。 三品,衣金繡大雜花霞帔,珠翠妝飾,金墜子。 四品,衣繡小雜花霞帔,翠妝飾,金墜子。 五品,衣銷金大雜花霞帔,生色畫絹起花妝飾,金墜子。 六品、七品,衣銷金小雜花霞帔,生色畫絹起花妝飾,鍍金銀墜子。 八品、九品,衣大紅素羅霞帔,生色畫絹妝飾,銀墜子。 首飾,一品、二品,金玉珠翠。 三品、四品,金珠翠。 五品,金翠。 六品以下,金鍍銀,間用珠。
On titled ladies' caps and dress: Fixed in Hongwu 1, a first-rank titled lady's cap bore flower hairpins of nine trees. Two broad side-locks and nine tin ornaments. She wore a pheasant robe embroidered with nine layers of pheasant. A plain gauze under-robe with fu-pattern collar and vermilion continuous-border skirt. The knee-apron matched the skirt, with dark-red collar border, layered embroidered pheasant as insignia of two grades. A jade belt. Blue socks and shoes, with tassel sash. Second rank: flower hairpins of eight trees. Two broad side-locks and eight tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of eight grades, rhinoceros-horn belt; otherwise the same as first rank. Third rank: flower hairpins of seven trees. Two broad side-locks and seven tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of seven grades, gold leather belt; otherwise the same as second rank. Fourth rank: flower hairpins of six trees. Two broad side-locks and six tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of six grades, gold leather belt; otherwise the same as third rank. Fifth rank: flower hairpins of five trees. Two broad side-locks and five tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of five grades, black horn belt; otherwise the same as fourth rank. Sixth rank: flower hairpins of four trees. Two broad side-locks and four tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of four grades, black horn belt; otherwise the same as fifth rank. Seventh rank: flower hairpins of three trees. Two broad side-locks and three tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of three grades, black horn belt; otherwise the same as sixth rank. From first through fifth rank, robe color followed the husband's and was purple. Sixth and seventh ranks wore scarlet, following their husbands' color. The great sash matched the robe color. In the fourth year, following the ancient custom by which the Son of Heaven and feudal lords wore dragon-and-phoenix robes and coronets, empresses and their ladies also wore Yi-style pheasant robes. Since officials now wore the beam-cap and deep-red robes as court dress and no longer dared use the coronet, titled ladies outside the inner court likewise ought not wear pheasant robes at court. The emperor ordered the Ministry of Rites to deliberate the matter. Upon memorial it was fixed that titled ladies' court dress would comprise a mountain-pine special topknot, false side-lock flower-and-tin ornaments, a true-red large-sleeved robe, and a pearl-and-kingfisher couched-gold cloud collar. For everyday wear they used a vermilion kingfisher horn crown, gold-and-pearl flower hairpins, and wide-sleeved garments of mixed colors with green borders. First rank: a cloud collar embroidered in gold with patterned designs, gold pearl-and-kingfisher ornaments, and a jade pendant. Second rank: a cloud collar with gold-embroidered cloud-shoulder and large mixed floral designs, gold pearl-and-kingfisher ornaments, and a gold pendant. Third rank: a cloud collar with gold-embroidered large mixed floral designs, pearl-and-kingfisher ornaments, and a gold pendant. Fourth rank: a cloud collar embroidered with small mixed floral designs, kingfisher ornaments, and a gold pendant. Fifth rank: a cut-gold cloud collar with large mixed floral designs, printed colored-silk raised-flower ornaments, and a gold pendant. Sixth and seventh ranks: a cut-gold cloud collar with small mixed floral designs, printed colored-silk raised-flower ornaments, and a gilded silver pendant. Eighth and ninth ranks: a plain great-red gauze cloud collar, printed colored-silk ornaments, and a silver pendant. Head ornaments: first and second ranks used gold, jade, pearl, and kingfisher. Third and fourth ranks: gold, pearl, and kingfisher. Fifth rank: gold and kingfisher. Sixth rank and below: gold-plated silver, with pearls used sparingly.
16
五年,更定品官命婦冠服:一品,禮服用山鬆特髻,翠鬆五株,金翟八,口銜珠結。 正面珠翠翟一,珠翠花四朵,珠翠雲喜花三朵; 後鬢珠梭球一,珠翠飛翟一,珠翠梳四,金雲頭連三釵一,珠簾梳一,金簪二; 珠梭環一雙。 大袖衫,用真紅色。 霞帔、褙子,俱用深青色。 紵絲綾羅紗隨用。 霞帔上施蹙金繡雲霞翟文,鈒花金墜子。 褙子上施金繡雲霞翟文。 常服用珠翠慶雲冠,珠翠翟三,金翟一,口銜珠結; 鬢邊珠翠花二,小珠翠梳一雙,金雲頭連三釵一,金壓鬢雙頭釵二,金腦梳一,金簪二; 金腳珠翠佛面環一雙; 鐲釧皆用金。 長襖長裙,各色紵絲綾羅紗隨用。 長襖緣襈,或紫或綠,上施蹙金繡雲霞翟文。 看帶,用紅綠紫,上施蹙金繡雲霞翟文。 長裙,橫豎金繡纏枝花文。 二品,特髻上金翟七,口銜珠結,餘同一品。 常服亦與一品同。 三品,特髻上金孔雀六,口銜珠結。 正面珠翠孔雀一,後鬢翠孔雀二。 霞帔上施蹙金雲霞孔雀文,鈒花金墜子。 褙子上施金繡雲霞孔雀文,餘同二品。 常服冠上珠翠孔雀三,金孔雀二,口銜珠結。 長襖緣衤巽。 看帶,或紫或綠,並繡雲霞孔雀文。 長裙,橫豎襴並繡纏枝花文,餘同二品。 四品,特髻上金孔雀五,口銜珠結,餘同三品。 常服亦與三品同。 五品,特髻上銀鍍金鴛鴦四,口銜珠結。 正面珠翠鴛鴦一,小珠鋪翠雲喜花三朵; 後鬢翠鴛鴦二,銀鍍金雲頭連三釵一,小珠簾梳一,鍍金銀簪二; 小珠梳環一雙。 霞帔上施繡雲霞鴛鴦文,鍍金銀鈒花墜子。 褙子上施雲霞鴛鴦文,餘同四品。 常服冠上小珠翠鴛鴦三,鍍金銀鴛鴦二,挑珠牌。 鬢邊小珠翠花二朵,雲頭連三釵一,梳一,壓鬢雙頭釵二,鍍金簪二; 銀腳珠翠佛面環一雙。 鐲釧皆用銀鍍金。 長襖緣襈,繡雲霞鴛鴦文。 長裙,橫豎襴繡纏枝花文,餘同四品。 六品,特髻上翠鬆三株,銀鍍金練鵲四,口銜珠結。 正面銀鍍金練鵲一,小珠翠花四朵; 後鬢翠梭球一,翠練鵲二,翠梳四,銀雲頭連三釵一,珠緣翠簾梳一,銀簪二。 大袖衫,綾羅槹絹隨所用。 霞帔施繡雲霞練鵲文,花銀墜子。 褙子上施雲霞練鵲文,餘同五品。 常服冠上鍍金銀練鵲三,又鍍金銀練鵲二,挑小珠牌; 鐲釧皆用銀。 長襖緣襈。 看帶,或紫或綠,繡雲霞練鵲文。 長裙,橫豎襴繡纏枝花文,餘同五品。 七品,禮服、常服俱同六品。 其八品、九品禮服,惟用大袖衫、霞帔、褙子。 大衫同七品。 霞帔上繡纏枝花,鈒花銀墜子。 褙子上繡摘枝團花。 通用小珠慶雲冠。 常服亦用小珠慶雲冠,銀間鍍金銀練鵲三,又銀間鍍金銀練鵲二,挑小珠牌; 銀間鍍金雲頭連三釵一,銀間鍍金壓鬢雙頭釵二,銀間鍍金腦梳一,銀間鍍金簪二。 長襖緣襈、看帶並繡纏枝花,餘同七品。 又定命婦團衫之制,以紅羅為之,繡重雉為等第。 一品九等,二品八等,三品七等,四品六等,五品五等,六品四等,七品三等,其餘不用繡雉。
In the fifth year the caps and dress of titled ladies of ranked officials were revised. First rank: for ceremonial dress, a mountain-pine special topknot with five kingfisher pine sprays and eight gold pheasants, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. On the front: one pearl-and-kingfisher pheasant, four pearl-and-kingfisher flowers, and three pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud flowers; At the rear: one pearl shuttle ball, one pearl-and-kingfisher flying pheasant, four pearl-and-kingfisher combs, one gold cloud-head linked triple hairpin, one pearl-curtain comb, and two gold hairpins; One pair of pearl shuttle rings. The large-sleeved robe was true red. Both the cloud collar and over-jacket were deep blue-green. Ramie silk, damask, gauze, or plain gauze might be used as appropriate. The cloud collar bore couched-gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants, with a chased-floral gold pendant. The over-jacket bore gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants. Everyday dress comprised a pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud crown with three pearl-and-kingfisher pheasants and one gold pheasant, the latter holding a pearl knot in its beak; Beside the side-locks: two pearl-and-kingfisher flowers, one pair of small pearl-and-kingfisher combs, one gold cloud-head linked triple hairpin, two gold side-lock-pressing double-head hairpins, one gold temple comb, and two gold hairpins; One pair of gold-foot pearl-and-kingfisher Buddha-face rings; Bracelets and armlets were all of gold. The long jacket and long skirt might be of various colors in ramie silk, damask, gauze, or plain gauze as appropriate. The long jacket had a bordered hem in purple or green, with couched-gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants. The ornamental sash was red, green, or purple, with couched-gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants. The long skirt bore gold embroidery of entwined floral sprays in horizontal and vertical bands. Second rank: seven gold pheasants on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak; otherwise the same as first rank. Everyday dress was also the same as first rank. Third rank: six gold peacocks on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. On the front: one pearl-and-kingfisher peacock; at the rear: two kingfisher peacocks. The cloud collar bore couched-gold clouds, mist, and peacocks, with a chased-floral gold pendant. The over-jacket bore gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and peacocks; otherwise the same as second rank. Everyday dress: a crown with three pearl-and-kingfisher peacocks and two gold peacocks, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. The long jacket had a bordered hem. The ornamental sash was purple or green, embroidered with clouds, mist, and peacocks. The long skirt bore bar-pattern bands embroidered with entwined floral sprays; otherwise the same as second rank. Fourth rank: five gold peacocks on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak; otherwise the same as third rank. Everyday dress was also the same as third rank. Fifth rank: four gilded silver mandarin ducks on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. On the front: one pearl-and-kingfisher mandarin duck and three small pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud flowers; At the rear: two kingfisher mandarin ducks, one gilded silver cloud-head linked triple hairpin, one small pearl-curtain comb, and two gilded silver hairpins; One pair of small pearl comb rings. The cloud collar bore embroidery of clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks, with a gilded silver chased-floral pendant. The over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks; otherwise the same as fourth rank. Everyday dress: a crown with three small pearl-and-kingfisher mandarin ducks, two gilded silver mandarin ducks, and a pearl plaque pendant. Beside the side-locks: two small pearl-and-kingfisher flowers, one cloud-head linked triple hairpin, one comb, two side-lock-pressing double-head hairpins, and two gilded hairpins; One pair of silver-foot pearl-and-kingfisher Buddha-face rings. Bracelets and armlets were all of gilded silver. The long jacket had a bordered hem embroidered with clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks. The long skirt bore bar-pattern bands embroidered with entwined floral sprays; otherwise the same as fourth rank. Sixth rank: three kingfisher pine sprays and four gilded silver white magpies on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. On the front: one gilded silver white magpie and four small pearl-and-kingfisher flowers; At the rear: one kingfisher shuttle ball, two kingfisher white magpies, four kingfisher combs, one silver cloud-head linked triple hairpin, one pearl-edged kingfisher curtain comb, and two silver hairpins. The large-sleeved robe might be of damask, gauze, or ramie silk as appropriate. The cloud collar bore embroidery of clouds, mist, and white magpies, with a floral silver pendant. The over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and white magpies; otherwise the same as fifth rank. Everyday dress: a crown with three gilded silver white magpies and two more gilded silver white magpies, with a small pearl plaque pendant; Bracelets and armlets were all of silver. The long jacket had a bordered hem. The ornamental sash was purple or green, embroidered with clouds, mist, and white magpies. The long skirt bore bar-pattern bands embroidered with entwined floral sprays; otherwise the same as fifth rank. Seventh rank: both ceremonial dress and everyday dress were the same as sixth rank. Eighth and ninth ranks: ceremonial dress comprised only the large-sleeved robe, cloud collar, and over-jacket. The great robe was the same as seventh rank. The cloud collar was embroidered with entwined floral sprays and bore a chased-floral silver pendant. The over-jacket was embroidered with plucked-branch round floral medallions. They generally used the small-pearl auspicious-cloud crown. Everyday dress also used the small-pearl auspicious-cloud crown, with three partly gilded silver white magpies and two more partly gilded silver white magpies, and a small pearl plaque pendant; One partly gilded silver cloud-head linked triple hairpin, two partly gilded silver side-lock-pressing double-head hairpins, one partly gilded silver temple comb, and two partly gilded silver hairpins. The long jacket's bordered hem and ornamental sash were both embroidered with entwined floral sprays; otherwise the same as seventh rank. Regulations were also fixed for titled ladies' round-collar robes of red gauze, with layered embroidered pheasants denoting rank. First rank: nine grades of pheasants; second rank: eight; third rank: seven; fourth rank: six; fifth rank: five; sixth rank: four; seventh rank: three; lower ranks bore no embroidered pheasants.
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二十四年定制,命婦朝見君後,在家見舅姑並夫及祭祀則服禮服。 公侯伯夫人與一品同。 大袖衫,真紅色。 一品至五品,紵絲綾羅; 六品至九品,綾羅槹絹。 霞帔、褙子皆深青段。 公侯及一品、二品,金繡雲霞翟文; 三品、四品,金繡雲霞孔雀文; 五品,繡雲霞鴛鴦文; 六品、七品,繡雲霞練鵲文。 大袖衫,領闊三寸,兩領直下一尺,間綴紐子三,末綴紐子二,紐在掩紐之下,拜則放之。 霞帔二條,各繡禽七,隨品級用,前四後三。 墜子中鈒花禽一,四面雲霞文,禽如霞帔,隨品級用。 笏以象牙為之。 二十六年定,一品,冠用金事件,珠翟五,珠牡丹開頭二,珠半開三,翠雲二十四片,翠牡丹葉一十八片,翠口圈一副,上帶金寶鈿花八,金翟二,口銜珠結二。 二品至四品,冠用金事件,珠翟四,珠牡丹開頭二,珠半開四,翠雲二十四片,翠牡丹葉一十八片,翠口圈一副,上帶金寶鈿花八,金翟二,口銜珠結二。 一品、二品,霞帔、褙子俱雲霞翟文,鈒花金墜子。 三品、四品,霞帔、褙子俱雲霞孔雀文,鈒花金墜子。 五品、六品,冠用抹金銀事件,珠翟三,珠牡丹開頭二,珠半開五,翠雲二十四片,翠牡丹葉一十八片,翠口圈一副,上帶抹金銀寶鈿花八,抹金銀翟二,口銜珠結子二。 五品,霞帔、褙子俱雲霞鴛鴦文,鍍金鈒花銀墜子。 六品,霞帔、褙子俱雲霞練鵲文,鈒花銀墜子。 七品至九品,冠用抹金銀事件,珠翟二,珠月桂開頭二,珠半開六,翠雲二十四片,翠月桂葉一十八片,翠口圈一副,上帶抹金銀寶鈿花八,抹金銀翟二,口銜珠結子二。 七品,霞帔、墜子、褙子與六品同。 八品、九品,霞帔用繡纏枝花,墜子與七品同,褙子繡摘枝團花。
In the twenty-fourth year it was fixed that titled ladies wore ceremonial dress after audience with the ruler, when receiving parents-in-law at home together with their husbands, and at sacrifices. The ladies of dukes, marquises, and earls were the same as first rank. The large-sleeved robe was true red. First through fifth ranks: ramie silk or damask gauze; Sixth through ninth ranks: damask, gauze, or ramie silk. Both the cloud collar and over-jacket were of deep blue satin. For dukes, marquises, and first and second ranks: gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants; Third and fourth ranks: gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and peacocks; Fifth rank: embroidery of clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks; Sixth and seventh ranks: embroidery of clouds, mist, and white magpies. The large-sleeved robe had a collar three inches wide; both collar panels hung straight down one foot, with three buttons spaced along them and two at the hem. The buttons sat beneath the overlapping collar flap and were released when bowing. Two cloud collars, each embroidered with seven birds according to rank—four in front and three in back. The pendant bore one chased-floral bird at its center and cloud-and-mist patterns on all four sides; the birds matched those on the cloud collar and varied by rank. The tablet was made of ivory. Fixed in the twenty-sixth year: for first rank, the crown used gold fittings, with five pearl pheasants, two fully open pearl peonies, three half-open peonies, twenty-four kingfisher-feather cloud pieces, eighteen kingfisher peony leaves, one set of kingfisher mouth-rim, eight gold jeweled hairpin flowers on top, two gold pheasants, and two pearl knots held in the beak. Second through fourth ranks: the crown used gold fittings, with four pearl pheasants, two fully open pearl peonies, four half-open peonies, twenty-four kingfisher cloud pieces, eighteen kingfisher peony leaves, one set of kingfisher mouth-rim, eight gold jeweled hairpin flowers on top, two gold pheasants, and two pearl knots held in the beak. First and second ranks: both cloud collar and over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and pheasants, with a chased-floral gold pendant. Third and fourth ranks: both cloud collar and over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and peacocks, with a chased-floral gold pendant. Fifth and sixth ranks: the crown used gilt-silver fittings, with three pearl pheasants, two fully open pearl peonies, five half-open peonies, twenty-four kingfisher cloud pieces, eighteen kingfisher peony leaves, one set of kingfisher mouth-rim, eight gilt-silver jeweled hairpin flowers on top, two gilt-silver pheasants, and two pearl knot pendants held in the beak. Fifth rank: both cloud collar and over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks, with a gold-plated chased-floral silver pendant. Sixth rank: both cloud collar and over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and white magpies, with a chased-floral silver pendant. Seventh through ninth ranks: the crown used gilt-silver fittings, with two pearl pheasants, two fully open pearl osmanthus blossoms, six half-open blossoms, twenty-four kingfisher cloud pieces, eighteen kingfisher osmanthus leaves, one set of kingfisher mouth-rim, eight gilt-silver jeweled hairpin flowers on top, two gilt-silver pheasants, and two pearl knot pendants held in the beak. Seventh rank: the cloud collar, pendant, and over-jacket were the same as sixth rank. Eighth and ninth ranks: the cloud collar was embroidered with entwined floral sprays; the pendant was the same as seventh rank; the over-jacket bore plucked-branch round floral medallions.
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內外官親屬冠服:洪武元年,禮部尚書崔亮奉詔議定。 內外官父、兄、伯、叔、子、孫、弟、侄用烏紗帽,軟腳垂帶,圓領衣,烏角帶。 品官祖母及母、與子孫同居親弟侄婦女禮服,合以本官所居官職品級,通用漆紗珠翠慶雲冠,本品衫,霞帔、褙子,緣襈襖裙,惟山鬆特髻子止許受封誥敕者用之。 品官次妻,許用本品珠翠慶雲冠、褙子為禮服。 銷金闊領、長襖長裙為常服。 二十五年,令文武官父兄、伯叔、弟侄、子婿,皆許穿靴。
Crowns and robes for the kin of inner and outer officials: in the first year of Hongwu, Minister of Rites Cui Liang was ordered to deliberate and set the regulations. Fathers, elder brothers, uncles, younger brothers, nephews, sons, and grandsons of inner and outer officials wore black gauze caps with soft hanging flaps, round-collar robes, and black horn belts. For the grandmothers and mothers of ranked officials, and for daughters-in-law of sons and grandsons in the same household, together with wives of close younger brothers and nephews, ceremonial dress followed the husband's or son's official rank: lacquered gauze pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud crowns, rank-appropriate robes, cloud collars, over-jackets, and bordered jacket-and-skirt sets. The mountain-loose special bun was permitted only for women who had received patents of enfeoffment. Secondary wives of ranked officials were allowed to wear pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud crowns and over-jackets of their husband's rank as ceremonial dress. Everyday dress consisted of a gilded wide-collar long jacket and long skirt. In the twenty-fifth year, fathers, elder brothers, uncles, younger brothers, nephews, and sons-in-law of civil and military officials were all permitted to wear boots.
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內使冠服:明初置內使監,冠烏紗描金曲腳帽,衣胸背花盤領窄袖衫,烏角帶,靴用紅扇面黑下樁。 各宮火者,服與庶人同。 洪武三年諭宰臣,內使監未有職名者,當別制冠,以別監官。 禮部奏定,內使監凡遇朝會,依品具朝服、公服行禮。 其常服,葵花胸背團領衫,不拘顏色; 烏紗帽; 犀角帶。 無品從者,常服團領衫,無胸背花,不拘顏色; 烏角帶; 烏紗帽,垂軟帶。 年十五以下者,惟戴烏紗小頂帽。 按《大政記》,永樂以後,宦官在帝左右,必蟒服,制如曳撒,繡蟒於左右,系以鸞帶,此燕閑之服也。 次則飛魚,惟入侍用之。 貴而用事者,賜蟒,文武一品官所不易得也。 單蟒面皆斜向,坐蟒則面正向,尤貴。 又有膝衤闌者,亦如曳撒,上有蟒補,當膝處橫織細雲蟒,蓋南郊及山陵扈從,便於乘馬也。 或召對燕見,君臣皆不用袍而用此; 第蟒有五爪、四爪之分,襴有紅、黃之別耳。 弘治元年,都御史邊鏞言:「國朝品官無蟒衣之制。 夫蟒無角、無足,今內官多乞蟒衣,殊類龍形,非制也。」 乃下詔禁之。 十七年,諭閣臣劉健曰:「內臣僭妄尤多。」 因言服色所宜禁,曰:「蟒、龍、飛魚、斗牛,本在所禁,不合私織。 間有賜者,或久而敝,不宜輒自織用。 玄、黃、紫、皁乃屬正禁,即柳黃、明黃、薑黃諸色,亦應禁之。」 孝宗加意鉗束,故申飭者再,然內官驕姿已久,積習相沿,不能止也。 初,太祖制內臣服,其紗帽與羣臣異,且無朝冠、襆頭,亦無祭服。 萬曆初,穆宗主入太廟,大榼冠進賢,服祭服以從,蓋內府祀中霤、竈井之神,例遣中官,因自創為祭服,非由廷議也。
Crowns and robes of inner attendants: in the early Ming the Directorate of Palace Attendants was established. They wore black gauze caps with gold-painted curved flaps, narrow-sleeved round-collar shirts bearing chest-and-back floral panels, black horn belts, and boots with red vamps and black counters. Fire-tenders in the various palaces dressed the same as commoners. In the third year of Hongwu the emperor instructed his chief ministers that unattached attendants of the directorate should wear a distinct cap to distinguish them from ranked directorate officials. The Ministry of Rites submitted regulations: whenever the directorate attended court assemblies, its members wore court dress and uniform robes appropriate to their ranks. Everyday dress was a round-collar shirt with sunflower chest-and-back panels, without restriction on color; a black gauze cap; and a rhinoceros-horn belt. Unranked attendants wore round-collar shirts without chest-and-back panels, in any color; black horn belts; black gauze caps with soft hanging bands. Those fifteen or younger wore only small-topped black gauze caps. According to the Record of Major Policies, after the Yongle reign eunuchs at the emperor's side invariably wore python robes cut like yisagu coats, with pythons embroidered on either side and secured with phoenix belts—informal dress. Next in rank were flying-fish robes, worn only when entering attendance on the emperor. Powerful eunuchs of high standing were granted python robes—a privilege not easily granted even to civil and military officials of first rank. On single-python robes the beasts all faced obliquely; on seated-python robes they faced directly forward—the latter especially prized. There were also knee-kilt robes, likewise cut like yisagu, with python patches above and fine horizontal cloud-pythons woven at the knee—garments for escorting the emperor at the Southern Suburban Altar and at imperial tombs, where ease on horseback mattered. When the emperor summoned his ministers for audience or informal meetings, both sides often wore these rather than formal robes; only the pythons differed as five-claw or four-claw, and the kilts as red or yellow. In the first year of Hongzhi, Censor-in-chief Bian Yong said, "Ranked officials of our dynasty have no prescribed python robes. Pythons have neither horns nor feet, yet many inner attendants now petition for python robes that greatly resemble dragons. This is not according to regulation. An edict was issued forbidding the practice. In the seventeenth year the emperor instructed Grand Secretary Liu Jian, saying, "The presumptuous excesses of inner attendants are especially numerous. He then spoke of forbidden dress colors, saying, "Pythons, dragons, flying fish, and bull-fight patterns are among the categories expressly forbidden; they must not be woven privately. Occasionally robes are granted by imperial bestowal; when these grow old and worn, attendants should not casually have new ones woven for themselves. Black, yellow, purple, and dark brown are strictly forbidden; even willow yellow, bright yellow, and ginger yellow ought to be banned. Emperor Xiaozong applied himself keenly to restraint, and so issued these repeated admonitions, yet inner attendants had long been arrogant and old habits endured—the practice could not be stopped. At first Taizu fixed dress for inner attendants: their gauze caps differed from those of ministers, and they had neither court crowns, nor futou, nor sacrificial robes. In the early Wanli period, when Emperor Muzong entered the Imperial Ancestral Temple as ruling sovereign, eunuchs followed in large-frame jinxian caps and sacrificial robes. The inner palace routinely dispatched central attendants to sacrifice to the gods of the central drain, stove, and well, and on that precedent they devised sacrificial dress for themselves—not by deliberation of the court.
20
侍儀舍人冠服:洪武二年,禮官議定。 侍儀舍人導禮,依元制,展腳襆頭,窄袖紫衫,塗金束帶,皁紋靴。 常服:烏紗唐帽,諸色盤領衫,烏角束帶,衫不用黃。 四年,中書省議定,侍儀舍人並御史臺知班,引禮執事,冠進賢冠,無樑,服絳色衣,其蔽膝、履、襪、帶、笏,與九品同,惟不用中單。
Crowns and robes of ceremonial attendants: in the second year of Hongwu, ritual officials deliberated and fixed the regulations. Ceremonial attendants guided ritual proceedings. Following Yuan precedent, they wore extended-flap futou, narrow-sleeved purple shirts, gilded belts, and black-pattern boots. Everyday dress: black gauze Tang caps, round-collar shirts in various colors, and black horn belts; yellow was not permitted for the shirts. In the fourth year the Secretariat fixed regulations: ceremonial attendants, together with the Censorate's rank-knowers who guided ritual proceedings, wore jinxian crowns without crossbars and crimson robes; their apron panels, shoes, socks, belts, and tablets matched ninth rank, except that they did not wear the inner undergarment.
21
校尉冠服:洪武三年定制,執仗之士,首服皆縷金額交腳襆頭,其服有諸色辟邪、寶相花裙襖,銅葵花束帶,皁紋靴。 六年,令校尉衣只孫,束帶,襆頭,靴鞋。 只孫,一作質孫,本元制,蓋一色衣也。 十四年改用金鵝帽,黑漆戧金荔枝銅釘樣,每五釘攢就,四面稍起邊襴,鞓青緊束之。 二十二年,令將軍、力士、校尉、旗軍常戴頭巾或榼腦。 二十五年,令校尉、力士上直穿靴,出外不許。
Crowns and robes of guard officers: fixed in the third year of Hongwu. Bearers of ceremonial staves all wore crossed-flap futou with gold-threaded foreheads; their dress included skirt-jackets in various colors bearing demon-quelling and precious-flower motifs, copper sunflower belts, and black-pattern boots. In the sixth year guard officers were ordered to wear zhisun robes, belts, futou, and boots or shoes. Zhisun—also written zhitu-sun—was originally a Yuan institution: essentially a one-color garment. In the fourteenth year they changed to gold-goose caps: black lacquer with raised-gold lychee-and-copper-nail patterns, every five nails clustered together, with slightly raised bordering on all four sides, tightly bound with a green sash. In the twenty-second year generals, strongmen, guard officers, and banner soldiers were ordered routinely to wear headcloths or ke-nao caps. In the twenty-fifth year guard officers and strongmen on palace duty were permitted to wear boots, but not when going out in public.
22
刻期冠服:宋置快行親從官,明初謂之刻期。 冠方頂巾,衣胸背鷹鷂,花腰,線襖子,諸色闊匾絲絛,大象牙雕花環,行縢八帶鞋。 洪武六年,惟用雕刻象牙絛環,餘同庶民。
Crowns and robes of qieqi runners: the Song established fast-travel personal attendants; in the early Ming they were called qieqi. They wore square-topped cloth caps, robes with hawk-and-kite chest-and-back panels, floral waistbands, thread jackets, broad flat silk sashes in various colors, large carved ivory sash rings, and eight-band leg-wrapping shoes. In the sixth year of Hongwu they were restricted to carved ivory sash rings; otherwise their dress was the same as commoners'.
23
儒士、生員、監生巾服:洪武三年,令士人戴四方平定巾。 二十三年,定儒士、生員衣,自領至裳,去地一寸,袖長過手,復回不及肘三寸。 二十四年,以士子巾服,無異吏胥,宜甄別之,命工部制式以進。 太祖親視,凡三易乃定。 生員襴衫,用玉色布絹為之,寬袖皁緣,皁絛軟巾垂帶。 貢舉入監者,不變所服。 洪武末,許戴遮陽帽,後遂私戴之。 洪熙中,帝問衣藍者何人,左右以監生對。 帝曰:「著青衣較好。」 乃易青圓領。 嘉靖二十二年,禮部言士子冠服詭異,有淩雲等巾,甚乖禮制,詔所司禁之。 萬曆二年禁舉人、監生、生儒僭用忠靜冠巾,錦綺鑲履及張傘蓋,戴暖耳,違者五城御史送問。
Caps and robes of Confucian scholars, students, and Imperial Academy students: in the third year of Hongwu scholars were ordered to wear the Square Peace cap. In the twenty-third year regulations fixed scholars' and students' robes: from collar to hem one inch above the ground; sleeves extending past the hands, turned back to no more than three inches above the elbow. In the twenty-fourth year, because scholars' caps and robes differed little from those of clerks and runners, distinction was needed; the Ministry of Works was ordered to prepare models for the emperor's review. Taizu inspected them in person, and only after three revisions were the forms fixed. Students wore kilt-robes of jade-colored cloth or silk, with wide sleeves and black borders, black sashes, and soft cloth caps with hanging bands. Those entering the academy through the tribute examination kept the dress they already wore. In the late Hongwu period sun-shade caps were permitted; afterward people wore them without authorization. During the Hongxi reign the emperor asked who the men in blue robes were; his attendants replied that they were academy students. The emperor said, "Green would look better. The robes were changed to green round-collar garments. In the twenty-second year of Jiajing the Ministry of Rites reported that scholars' caps and robes had grown bizarre, including Lingyun and other irregular caps greatly at odds with ritual regulation; an edict ordered the authorities to forbid them. In the second year of Wanli, tribute scholars, academy students, and literati were forbidden to wear presumptuously Zhongjing caps and cloth, brocade-embroidered shoes, parasols and canopies, or warm ear-covers; violators were seized by censors of the Five Districts for inquiry.
24
庶人冠服:明初,庶人婚,許假九品服。 洪武三年,庶人初戴四帶巾,改四方平定巾,雜色盤領衣,不許用黃。 又令男女衣服,不得僭用金繡、錦綺、紵絲、綾羅,止許槹、絹、素紗,其靴不得裁製花樣、金線裝飾。 首飾、釵、鐲不許用金玉、珠翠,止用銀。 六年,令庶人巾環不得用金玉、瑪瑙、珊瑚、琥珀。 未入流品者同。 庶人帽,不得用頂,帽珠止許水晶、香木。 十四年令農衣槹、紗、絹、布,商賈止衣絹、布。 農家有一人為商賈者,亦不得衣槹、紗。 二十二年,令農夫戴斗笠、蒲笠出入市井不禁,不親農業者不許。 二十三年,令耆民衣制,袖長過手,復回不及肘三寸; 庶人衣長去地五寸,袖長過手六寸,袖樁廣一尺,袖口五寸。 二十五年,以民間違禁,靴巧裁花樣,嵌以金線藍條,詔禮部嚴禁庶人不許穿靴,止許穿皮劄鵓翁,惟北地苦寒,許用牛皮直縫靴。 正德元年,禁商販、僕役、倡優、下賤不許服用貂裘。 十六年,禁軍民衣紫花罩甲,或禁門或四外遊走者,緝事人擒之。
Crowns and robes of commoners: in the early Ming, commoners at marriage were permitted to borrow ninth-rank dress. In the third year of Hongwu commoners at first wore four-band caps, then changed to Square Peace caps and round-collar robes in miscellaneous colors; yellow was forbidden. Regulations also forbade men and women from wearing gold embroidery, brocade, ramie silk, damask, or gauze, limiting them to ramie, silk, and plain gauze; boots could not be cut with floral patterns or trimmed with gold thread. Head ornaments, hairpins, and bracelets could not use gold, jade, or kingfisher feathers—only silver. In the sixth year commoners were forbidden cap rings of gold, jade, agate, coral, or amber. Those not entered in the rank rolls were subject to the same rules. Commoners' caps could not have domed tops; cap beads were limited to crystal and fragrant wood. In the fourteenth year farmers were permitted ramie, gauze, silk, and cloth; merchants and traders only silk and cloth. In farm households where one member engaged in trade, even farmers could not wear ramie or gauze. In the twenty-second year farmers were permitted to wear bamboo or sedge-leaf hats in markets and streets without penalty; those not engaged in farming were not. In the twenty-third year regulations for elders' dress fixed sleeves extending past the hands, turned back to no more than three inches above the elbow; Commoners' robes hung one hand-span above the ground, with sleeves extending six inches past the hands, sleeve bands one foot wide, and cuff openings five inches. In the twenty-fifth year, because violations had proliferated—boots artfully cut with floral patterns and inlaid with gold-thread blue bands—an edict ordered the Ministry of Rites strictly to forbid commoners from wearing boots, allowing only simple leather pazhabo boots; in the cold north alone straight-seamed cowhide boots were permitted. In the first year of Zhengde merchants, servants, actors, and people of base birth were forbidden to wear sable fur. In the sixteenth year soldiers and civilians were forbidden purple floral sleeveless armor; surveillance officers were to seize anyone wearing it at forbidden gates or wandering abroad.
25
士庶妻冠服:洪武三年定制,士庶妻,首飾用銀鍍金,耳環用金珠,釧鐲用銀,服淺色團衫,用紵絲、綾羅、槹絹。 五年,令民間婦人禮服惟紫絁,不用金繡,袍衫止紫、綠、桃紅及諸淺淡顏色,不許用大紅、鴉青、黃色,帶用藍絹布。 女子在室者,作三小髻,金釵,珠頭閟窄袖褙子。 凡婢使,高頂髻,絹布狹領長襖,長裙。 小婢使,雙髻,長袖短衣,長裙。 成化十年,禁官民婦女不得僭用渾金衣服,寶石首飾。 正德元年,令軍民婦女不許用銷金衣服、帳幔,寶石首飾、鐲釧。
Crowns and robes of scholars' and commoners' wives: fixed in the third year of Hongwu. Their head ornaments were silver with gold plating; earrings were gold beads; bracelets and armlets were silver; dress was light-colored round shirts of ramie silk, damask, gauze, or ramie. In the fifth year commoners' wives were limited to purple woven silk for ceremonial dress, without gold embroidery; robes and shirts to purple, green, peach pink, and other pale colors—never large red, crow blue, or yellow; sashes were of blue silk cloth. Unmarried women wore three small buns, gold hairpins, pearl headpieces, and narrow-sleeved over-jackets. Maidservants wore high topknots, narrow-collar long jackets of silk or cloth, and long skirts. Junior maidservants wore double buns, long-sleeved short jackets, and long skirts. In the tenth year of Chenghua officials' and commoners' wives were forbidden to wear solid-gold clothing or gemstone head ornaments. In the first year of Zhengde soldiers' and civilians' wives were forbidden gilded clothing and hangings, gemstone head ornaments, bracelets, and armlets.
26
協律郎、樂舞生冠服:明初,郊社宗廟用雅樂,協律郎襆頭,紫羅袍,荔枝帶; 樂生緋袍,展腳襆頭; 舞士襆頭,紅羅袍,荔枝帶,皁靴; 文舞生紅袍,武舞生緋袍,俱展腳襆頭,革帶,皁靴。 朝會大樂九奏歌工:中華一統巾,紅羅生色大袖衫,畫黃鶯、鸚鵡花樣,紅生絹襯衫,錦領,杏紅絹裙,白絹大口袴,青絲絛,白絹襪,茶褐鞋。 其和聲郎押樂者:皁羅闊帶巾,青羅大袖衫,紅生絹襯衫,錦領,塗金束帶,皁靴。 其三舞:
Crowns and robes of music-masters and ritual dancers: in the early Ming, suburban, ancestral, and temple rites used elegant music. The music-master wore futou, a purple gauze robe, and a lychee belt; Dancers wore crimson robes and extended-flap futou; Dance performers wore futou, red gauze robes, lychee belts, and black boots; Civil dance students wore red robes and martial dance students crimson robes, all with extended-flap futou, leather belts, and black boots. For the nine movements of great music at court assemblies, singers wore the Single Zhonghua cap, red gauze patterned large-sleeved jackets painted with oriole and parrot designs, red raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, apricot-red silk skirts, white silk wide trousers, green silk sashes, white silk socks, and tea-brown shoes. The harmony masters who conducted the music wore black gauze broad-ribbon caps, blue gauze large-sleeved jackets, red raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, gilt waist-belts, and black boots. The three dances were as follows:
27
一、武舞,曰《平定天下之舞》。 舞士皆黃金束發冠,紫絲纓,青羅生色畫舞鶴花樣窄袖衫,白生絹襯衫,錦領、紅羅銷金大袖罩袍,紅羅銷金裙,皁生色畫花緣襈,白羅銷金汗袴,藍青羅銷金緣,紅絹擁項,紅結子,紅絹束腰,塗金束帶,青絲大絛,錦臂韝,綠雲頭皁靴。 舞師,黃金束發冠,紫絲纓,青羅大袖衫,白絹襯衫,錦領,塗金束帶,綠雲頭皁靴。
First, the martial dance, called "The Dance of Pacifying All Under Heaven." All dance performers wore gold hair-binding crowns with purple silk tassels, blue gauze patterned narrow-sleeved jackets painted with dancing cranes, white raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, red gauze gold-cutwork large-sleeved outer robes and skirts, black patterned jackets with painted floral borders, white gauze gold-cutwork fitted trousers with blue-green gauze gold-cutwork borders, red silk neck wraps and knot ornaments, red silk waist bindings, gilt waist-belts, green silk great sashes, brocade arm guards, and black boots with green cloud-toe caps. Dance masters wore gold hair-binding crowns with purple silk tassels, blue gauze large-sleeved jackets, white silk under-jackets, brocade collars, gilt waist-belts, and black boots with green cloud-toe caps.
28
一、文舞,曰《車書會同之舞》。 舞士皆黑光描金方山冠,青絲纓,紅羅大袖衫,紅生絹襯衫,錦領,紅羅擁項,紅結子,塗金束帶,白絹大口袴,白絹襪,茶褐鞋。 舞師冠服與舞士同,惟大袖衫用青羅,不用紅羅擁項、紅結子。
Second, the civil dance, called "The Dance of Chariots and Script in Universal Harmony." All dance performers wore lacquered-black gold-traced square mountain crowns with green silk tassels, red gauze large-sleeved jackets, red raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, red gauze neck wraps and knot ornaments, gilt waist-belts, white silk wide trousers, white silk socks, and tea-brown shoes. Dance masters wore the same crowns and dress as the performers, except that their large-sleeved jackets were of blue gauze and they did without red gauze neck wraps or red knot ornaments.
29
一、文舞,曰《撫安四夷之舞》。 舞士,東夷四人,椎髻於後,系紅銷金頭繩,紅羅銷金抹額,中綴塗金博山,兩傍綴塗金巾環,明金耳環,青羅生色畫花大袖衫,紅生色領袖,紅羅銷金裙,青銷金裙緣,紅生絹襯衫,錦領,塗金束帶,烏皮靴。 西戎四人,間道錦纏頭,明金耳環,紅紵絲細摺襖子,大紅羅生色雲肩,綠生色緣,藍青羅銷金汗袴,紅銷金緣繫腰合缽,十字泥金數珠,五色銷金羅香囊,紅絹擁項,紅結子,赤皮靴。 南蠻四人,綰朝天髻,系紅羅生色銀錠,紅銷金抹額,明金耳環,紅織金短襖子,綠織金細摺短裙,絨錦袴,間道紵絲手巾,泥金頂牌,金珠瓔珞綴小金鈴,錦行纏,泥金獅蠻帶,綠銷金擁項,紅結子,赤皮靴。 北翟四人,戴單于冠,貂鼠皮簷,雙垂髻,紅銷金頭繩,紅羅銷金抹額,諸色細摺襖子,藍青生色雲肩,紅結子,紅銷金汗袴,繫腰合缽,皁皮靴。 其舞師皆戴白卷簷氈帽,塗金帽頂,一撒紅纓,紫羅帽襻,紅綠金繡襖子,白銷金汗袴,藍青銷金緣,塗金束帶,綠擁項,紅結子,赤皮靴。
Third, the civil dance, called "The Dance of Pacifying the Four Barbarians." Four Eastern Yi dancers wore topknots at the back, red gold-cutwork head cords, red gauze gold-cutwork forehead bands centered with gilt Bo Mountain ornaments and gilt cap rings on either side, bright-gold earrings, blue gauze patterned painted floral large-sleeved jackets with red patterned collars and sleeves, red gauze gold-cutwork skirts with blue gold-cutwork borders, red raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, gilt waist-belts, and black leather boots. Four Western Rong dancers wore striped brocade head wraps and bright-gold earrings, red ramie fine-pleated jackets, large red gauze patterned cloud-shoulders with green patterned borders, blue-green gauze gold-cutwork fitted trousers, red gold-cutwork border waist girdles, ten-string gilt prayer beads, five-color gold-cutwork gauze incense pouches, red silk neck wraps and knot ornaments, and red leather boots. Four Southern Man dancers wore sky-facing buns with red gauze patterned silver hairpins, red gold-cutwork forehead bands, and bright-gold earrings, red brocade-gold short jackets, green brocade-gold fine-pleated short skirts, velvet brocade trousers, striped ramie hand towels, gilt top plaques, gold-pearl necklaces strung with small gold bells, brocade leg wraps, gilt lion-barbarian belts, green gold-cutwork neck wraps, red knot ornaments, and red leather boots. Four Northern Di dancers wore Chanyu crowns with sable fur brims and double hanging buns, red gold-cutwork head cords, red gauze gold-cutwork forehead bands, multi-colored fine-pleated jackets, blue-green patterned cloud-shoulders, red knot ornaments, red gold-cutwork fitted trousers with waist girdles, and black leather boots. All dance masters wore white rolled-brim felt caps with gilt tops and a spray of red tassels, purple gauze cap straps, red-green gold-embroidered jackets, white gold-cutwork fitted trousers with blue-green gold-cutwork borders, gilt waist-belts, green neck wraps, red knot ornaments, and red leather boots.
30
凡大樂工及文武二舞樂工,皆曲腳襆頭,紅羅生色畫花大袖衫,塗金束帶,紅絹擁項,紅結子,皁皮靴。 四夷樂工,皆蓮花帽,諸色細摺襖子,白銷金汗袴,紅銷金緣,紅綠絹束腰,紅羅擁項,紅結子,花靴。
All great music workers and civil and martial dance musicians wore curved-flap futou, red gauze patterned painted floral large-sleeved jackets, gilt waist-belts, red silk neck wraps and knot ornaments, and black leather boots. Four-barbarian musicians all wore lotus caps, multi-colored fine-pleated jackets, white gold-cutwork fitted trousers with red gold-cutwork borders, red-green silk waist bindings, red gauze neck wraps and knot ornaments, and floral boots.
31
永樂間,定殿內侑食樂。 奏《平定天下之舞》,引舞、樂工,皆青羅包巾,青、紅、綠、玉色羅銷金胸背襖子,渾金銅帶,紅羅褡愬,雲頭皁靴,青綠羅銷金包臀。 舞人服色如之。 奏《撫安四夷之舞》,高麗舞四人,皆笠子,青羅銷金胸背襖子,銅帶,皁靴; 琉球舞四人,皆棉布花手巾,青羅大袖襖子,銅帶,白碾光絹間道踢袴,皁皮靴; 北番舞四人,皆狐帽,青紅紵絲銷金襖子,銅帶; 伍魯速回回舞四人,皆青羅帽,比裏罕棉布花手巾,銅帶,皁靴。 奏《車書會同之舞》,舞人皆皁羅頭巾,青、綠、玉色皁沿邊襴,茶褐線條皁皮四縫靴。 奏《表正萬邦之舞》,引舞二人,青羅包巾,紅羅銷金項帕,紅生絹錦領中單,紅生絹銷金通袖襖子,青線絛銅帶,織錦臂韝,雲頭皁靴,各色銷金包臀,紅絹褡愬。 舞人、樂工服色與引舞同。 奏《天命有德之舞》,引舞二人,青幪紗如意冠,紅生絹錦領中單,紅生絹大袖袍,各色絹採畫直纏,黑角偏帶,藍絹彩雲頭皁靴,白布襪。 舞人、樂工服色與引舞同。
During the Yongle reign regulations were set for hall music accompanying offerings at meals. For "The Dance of Pacifying All Under Heaven," lead dancers and musicians all wore blue gauze wrapped caps, blue, red, green, and jade-colored gauze gold-cutwork chest-and-back jackets, solid-gold copper belts, red gauze crossed sashes, cloud-toe black boots, and blue-green gauze gold-cutwork hip wraps. The dancers' dress colors matched. For "The Dance of Pacifying the Four Barbarians," four Goryeo dancers all wore bamboo hats, blue gauze gold-cutwork chest-and-back jackets, copper belts, and black boots; Four Ryukyu dancers all wore cotton floral hand towels, blue gauze large-sleeved jackets, copper belts, white polished silk striped wide trousers, and black leather boots; Four northern frontier dancers all wore fox-fur caps, blue-red ramie gold-cutwork jackets, and copper belts; Four Wulu Su Huihui dancers all wore blue gauze caps, Bilikhan cotton floral hand towels, copper belts, and black boots. For "The Dance of Chariots and Script in Universal Harmony," dancers all wore black gauze headcloths, blue, green, and jade-colored black-bordered robes, and tea-brown cord-trimmed black leather four-panel boots. For "The Dance of Setting Right the Myriad States," two lead dancers wore blue gauze wrapped caps, red gauze gold-cutwork neck scarves, red raw-silk brocade-collared under-robes, red raw-silk gold-cutwork full-sleeved jackets, green cord copper belts, brocade arm guards, cloud-toe black boots, multi-colored gold-cutwork hip wraps, and red silk crossed sashes. Dancers and musicians wore the same dress colors as the lead dancers. For "The Dance of Heaven's Mandate and Virtue," two lead dancers wore blue gauze ruyi crowns, red raw-silk brocade-collared under-robes, red raw-silk large-sleeved robes, multi-colored silk painted straight leg wraps, black-horn side belts, blue silk cloud-pattern cloud-toe black boots, and white cloth socks. Dancers and musicians wore the same dress colors as the lead dancers.
32
洪武五年,定齋郎、樂生、文武舞生冠服:齋郎,黑介幘,漆布為之,無花樣; 服紅絹窄袖衫,紅生絹為裏; 皁皮四縫靴; 黑角帶。 文舞生及樂生,黑介幘,漆布為之,上加描金蟬; 服紅絹大槹袍,胸背畫纏枝方葵花,紅生絹為裏,加錦臂韝二; 皁皮四縫靴; 黑角帶。 武舞生,武弁,以漆布為之,上加描金蟬; 服飾、靴、帶並同文舞生。 嘉靖九年定文、武舞生服制:圜丘服青紵絲,方澤服黑綠紗,朝日壇服赤羅,夕月壇服玉色羅。
In the fifth year of Hongwu crowns and dress were fixed for fasting officers, music students, and civil and martial dance students. Fasting officers wore black jieze of lacquered cloth, without pattern; they wore red silk narrow-sleeved jackets lined with red raw silk; black leather four-panel boots; and black-horn belts. Civil dance students and music students wore black jieze of lacquered cloth with gold-traced cicadas added on top; they wore red silk large-sleeved robes with chest and back painted in entwined square sunflowers, lined with red raw silk, and two brocade arm guards; black leather four-panel boots; and black-horn belts. Martial dance students wore military caps of lacquered cloth with gold-traced cicadas added on top; their dress, boots, and belts were the same as those of civil dance students. In the ninth year of Jiajing the dress system for civil and martial dance students was fixed: at the Circular Mound Altar they wore blue ramie silk; at the Square Mound Altar, black-green gauze; at the Morning Sun Altar, red gauze; and at the Evening Moon Altar, jade-colored gauze.
33
宮中女樂冠服:洪武三年定制。 凡中宮供奉女樂、奉鑾等官妻,本色皪髻,青羅圓領。 提調女樂,黑漆唐巾,大紅羅銷金花圓領,鍍金花帶,皁靴。 歌章女樂,黑漆唐巾,大紅羅銷金裙襖,胸帶,大紅羅抹額,青綠羅彩畫雲肩,描金牡丹花皁靴。 奏樂女樂,服色與歌章同。 嘉靖九年,祀先蠶,定樂女生冠服。 黑縐紗描金蟬冠,黑絲纓,黑素羅銷金葵花胸背大袖女袍,黑生絹襯衫,錦領,塗金束帶,白襪,黑鞋。
Crowns and dress for palace women's music were fixed in the third year of Hongwu. Wives of Inner Palace women who served music, carried imperial insignia, and the like wore natural wrapped buns and blue gauze round collars. Directors of women's music wore black lacquered Tang caps, large red gauze gold-cutwork floral round collars, gold-plated floral belts, and black boots. Song-reciting women musicians wore black lacquered Tang caps, large red gauze gold-cutwork skirt-jackets, chest sashes, large red gauze forehead bands, blue-green gauze painted cloud-shoulders, and black boots with gold-traced peonies. Instrument-playing women musicians wore the same dress colors as song-reciting musicians. In the ninth year of Jiajing, when sacrificing to the Silkworm Goddess, crowns and dress were fixed for women music students. They wore black crepe gauze gold-traced cicada crowns with black silk tassels, black plain gauze gold-cutwork sunflower chest-and-back large-sleeved women's robes, black raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, gilt waist-belts, white socks, and black shoes.
34
教坊司冠服:洪武三年定。 教坊司樂藝,青字頂巾,系紅綠褡愬。 樂妓,明角冠,皁褙子,不許與民妻同。 御前供奉俳長,鼓吹冠,紅羅胸背小袖袍,紅絹褡愬,皁靴。 色長,鼓吹冠,紅青羅紵絲彩畫百花袍,紅絹褡愬。 歌工,弁冠,紅羅織金胸背大袖袍,紅生絹錦領中單,黑角帶,紅熟絹錦腳袴,皁皮琴鞋,白棉布夾襪。 樂工服色與歌工同。 凡教坊司官常服冠帶,與百官同; 至御前供奉,執粉漆笏,服黑漆襆頭,黑綠羅大袖襴袍,黑角偏帶,皁靴。 教坊司伶人,常服綠色巾,以別士庶之服。 樂人皆戴鼓吹冠,不用錦絛,惟紅褡愬,服色不拘紅綠。 教坊司婦人,不許戴冠,穿褙子。 樂人衣服,止用明綠、桃紅、玉色、水紅、茶褐色。 俳、色長,樂工,俱皁頭巾,雜色絛。
Crowns and dress of the Directorate of Music were fixed in the third year of Hongwu. Directorate music performers wore blue-character top caps with red-green crossed sashes attached. Music courtesans wore bright-horn crowns and black beizi, and were not permitted to dress like commoners' wives. Chief performers before the throne wore processional music caps, red gauze chest-and-back small-sleeved robes, red silk crossed sashes, and black boots. Section chiefs wore processional music caps, red-blue gauze ramie painted hundred-flower robes, and red silk crossed sashes. Singers wore cap crowns, red gauze brocade-gold chest-and-back large-sleeved robes, red raw-silk brocade-collared under-robes, black-horn belts, red finished-silk brocade ankle trousers, black leather qin shoes, and white cotton lined socks. Musicians wore the same dress colors as singers. Directorate officials' everyday caps and belts matched those of the hundred officials; when serving before the throne they carried powder-lacquered tablets and wore black lacquered futou, black-green gauze large-sleeved patterned robes, black-horn side belts, and black boots. Directorate performers wore green caps in everyday dress to distinguish them from scholars and commoners. All musicians wore processional music caps, using red crossed sashes rather than brocade sashes, and their dress colors were not restricted to red and green. Directorate women were not permitted to wear crowns and wore beizi instead. Musicians' clothing was limited to bright green, peach pink, jade color, water red, and tea brown. Performers, section chiefs, and musicians all wore black headcloths and multi-colored sashes.
35
王府樂工冠服:洪武十五年定。 凡朝賀用大樂宴禮,七奏樂樂工俱紅絹彩畫胸背方花小袖單袍,有花鼓吹冠,錦臂韝,皁靴,抹額以紅羅彩畫,束腰以紅絹。 其餘樂工用綠絹彩畫胸背方花小袖單袍,無花鼓吹冠,抹額以紅絹彩畫,束腰以紅絹。
Crowns and dress for princely establishment musicians were fixed in the fifteenth year of Hongwu. For all congratulatory audiences using great music at banquets, musicians for the seven movements all wore red silk painted chest-and-back square floral small-sleeved single robes, floral processional music caps, brocade arm guards, and black boots, with forehead bands of red gauze painted designs and waist bindings of red silk. Other musicians wore green silk painted chest-and-back square floral small-sleeved single robes, plain processional music caps, forehead bands of red silk painted designs, and waist bindings of red silk.
36
皁隸公人冠服:洪武三年定,皁隸,圓頂巾,皁衣。 四年定,皁隸公使人,皁盤領衫,平頂巾,白褡愬,帶錫牌。 十四年,令各衛門祗禁,原服皁衣改用淡青。 二十五年,皁隸伴當不許著靴,止用皮劄鵓翁。
Crowns and dress for black-clad runners and government servants were fixed in the third year of Hongwu: black-clad runners wore domed caps and black clothing. In the fourth year black-clad government messengers were fixed to wear black round-collar shirts, flat-topped caps, white crossed sashes, and tin plaques. In the fourteenth year gate guards of each guard post, who had originally worn black clothing, were ordered to change to pale blue. In the twenty-fifth year black-clad attendants were forbidden to wear boots and were limited to leather pazhabo boots.
37
外國君臣冠服:洪武二年,高麗入朝,請祭服制度,命制給之。 二十七年,定蕃國朝貢儀,國王來朝,如賞賜朝服者,服之以朝。 三十一年,賜琉球國王並其臣下冠服。 永樂中,賜琉球中山王皮弁、玉圭,麟袍、犀帶,視二品秩。 宣德三年,朝鮮國王李濩言:「洪武中,蒙賜國王冕服九章,陪臣冠服比朝廷遞降二等,故陪臣一等比朝臣第三等,得五樑冠服。 永樂初,先臣芳遠遣世子禔入朝,蒙賜五樑冠服。 臣竊惟世子冠服,何止同陪臣一等,乞為定制。」 乃命制六樑冠賜之。 嘉靖六年,令外國朝貢入,不許擅用違製衣服。 如違,賣者、買者同罪。
Crowns and dress for foreign rulers and ministers: in the second year of Hongwu, when Goryeo came to court and requested sacrificial dress regulations, the court ordered them made and granted. In the twenty-seventh year regulations for vassal tribute ceremonies were fixed: when kings came to court, if granted court dress they wore it at audience. In the thirty-first year crowns and dress were granted to the king of Ryukyu and his ministers. During Yongle the Chungshan king of Ryukyu was granted leather caps, jade tablets, python robes, and rhinoceros belts, treated as second rank. In the third year of Xuande King Yi Hu of Joseon said: "In Hongwu we were granted the king's nine-emblem sacrificial dress; attendant ministers' crowns and dress were two ranks below the court, so first-rank attendants matched third-rank court officials and received five-ridge crowns and dress. Early in Yongle my late father Pangyŏn sent the heir Ti to court, and he was granted five-ridge crowns and dress. Your subject ventures to consider that the heir's crowns and dress far exceed those of first-rank attendants; I beg that this be made a fixed regulation." The court then ordered a six-ridge crown made and granted. In the sixth year of Jiajing foreign tribute missions entering court were forbidden to use unauthorized dress. Violators were punished alike, whether seller or buyer.
38
僧道服:洪武十四年定,禪僧,茶褐常服,青絛玉色袈裟。 講僧,玉色常服,綠絛淺紅袈裟。 教僧,皁常服,黑絛淺紅袈裟。 僧官如之。 惟僧錄司官袈裟,綠文及環皆飾以金。 道士,常服青法服,朝衣皆赤,道官亦如之。 惟道錄司官法服、朝服,綠文飾金。 凡在京道官,紅道衣,金襴,木簡。 在外道官,紅道衣,木簡,不用金襴。 道士,青道服,木簡。
Buddhist and Daoist dress was fixed in the fourteenth year of Hongwu. Chan monks wore tea-brown everyday dress and jade-colored kasaya with green sashes. Lecture monks wore jade-colored everyday dress and pale-red kasaya with green sashes. Teaching monks wore black everyday dress and pale-red kasaya with black sashes. Buddhist officials followed the same rule. Only the kasaya of Buddhist Registry officials had green brocade and rings all ornamented with gold. Daoist priests wore blue ritual robes in everyday dress and all-red court dress; Daoist officials followed the same rule. Only the ritual robes and court dress of Daoist Registry officials had green brocade ornamented with gold. All Daoist officials in the capital wore red Daoist robes with gold brocade borders and carried wooden tablets. Daoist officials outside the capital wore red Daoist robes and carried wooden tablets, without gold brocade borders. Daoist priests wore blue Daoist robes and carried wooden tablets.