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卷六十七 志第四十三 輿服三

Volume 67 Treatises 43: Carriages and Clothing 3

Chapter 67 of 明史 · History of Ming
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Chapter 67
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1
使
Caps and dress for civil and military officials; caps and dress for titled ladies; caps and dress for officials' kin, inside and outside the capital; caps and dress for palace eunuchs; caps and dress for ceremonial attendants and those of lower rank; caps and dress for scholars and commoners; caps and dress for musicians; caps and dress for military runners; caps and dress for foreign envoys; Buddhist and Daoist vestments and colors
2
On civil and military officials' court dress: In Hongwu 26 (1393) it was fixed that for great sacrifices, celebratory completion rites, New Year's Day, the winter solstice, imperial birthdays, and the promulgation, opening and reading, presentation of memorials, and transmission of edicts, all ranks wore the beam-cap, a red gauze upper robe, a white gauze under-robe with blue-trimmed collar, a red gauze skirt with blue border, a red gauze knee-apron, a great sash of red and white silk, a leather belt, a tassel sash of rank, and white socks with black shoes. From first through ninth rank, rank was distinguished by the number of ridges on the cap. Dukes wore caps of eight ridges, with cage-cap and sable cicada ornament, a standing brush folded five times, four pillars, five segments of fragrant grass, and jade cicada ornaments front and rear. Marquises wore seven ridges, with cage-cap and sable cicada, a standing brush folded four times, four pillars, four segments of fragrant grass, and gold cicada ornaments front and rear. Earls wore seven ridges, with cage-cap and sable cicada, a standing brush folded twice, four pillars, two segments of fragrant grass, and tortoiseshell cicada ornaments front and rear. All three ranks inserted pheasant-tail plumes. Imperial sons-in-law matched marquises but did not wear pheasant-tail plumes. First rank: a cap of seven ridges, without cage-cap or sable cicada; jade leather belt and pendant; a tassel sash woven in yellow, green, red, and purple cloud-and-phoenix brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two jade sash-rings. Second rank: six ridges, leather belt, rhinoceros-horn sash-rings; otherwise the same as first rank. Third rank: five ridges, gold leather belt, jade pendant; tassel sash in yellow, green, red, and purple cloud-and-crane brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two gold sash-rings. Fourth rank: four ridges, gold leather belt, medicinal-jade pendant; otherwise the same as third rank. Fifth rank: three ridges, silver leather belt chased with floral designs, medicinal-jade pendant; tassel sash in yellow, green, red, and purple coiled-flower brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two silver-gilt sash-rings. From first through fifth rank, all court tablets were of ivory. Sixth and seventh ranks: two ridges, silver leather belt, medicinal-jade pendant; tassel sash in yellow, green, and red practice-magpie brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two silver sash-rings. Censors alone bore the xiezhi emblem on their dress. Eighth and ninth ranks: one ridge, black-horn leather belt, medicinal-jade pendant; tassel sash in yellow and green xichi brocade, tied below with a blue silk net and two copper sash-rings. From sixth through ninth rank, all court tablets were of locust wood. Military officers on rotating guard duty had separate dress colors. Miscellaneous posts outside the rank stream used only service dress for great court congratulations and the presentation of memorials. In the thirtieth year of Hongwu they were ordered to be treated as ninth-rank officials and to wear court dress. In Jiajing 8 (1529) the regulations for court dress were revised. The beam-cap followed the old style; the upper robe was red gauze with blue border, seven inches below the waist and not to cover the lower skirt. The under-robe was white gauze with blue border. The lower skirt had seven panels—three in front and four behind—with three pleats per panel, in red gauze with blue border. The knee-apron was fastened to the leather belt. The tassel sash followed each rank's prescribed pattern. The tassel sash hung behind the leather belt, tied and folded under it. The sash-rings likewise followed rank, in jade, rhinoceros horn, gold, silver, or copper, and were no longer woven into the sash itself. The great sash was plain inside and out, with green only on the two ears and the hanging border, and was bound with blue cord. Leather belts remained as in the old style. Jade pendants followed the system in the Classic of Poetry commentary, omitting the double drops and the two top pendants. Third rank and above wore jade; fourth rank and below wore medicinal jade; socks and shoes remained as before. In Wanli 5 (1577) officials were forbidden to wear vermilion shoes at the New Year's court congratulations. By precedent, in the eleventh month all officials wore warm ear-covers. That year officials from the provinces attending court, together with examination graduates and students, were forbidden to wear warm ear-covers in court.
3
便
Whenever the emperor personally sacrificed at the suburban altars, the ancestral temples, or the altars of soil and grain, civil and military officials who divided offerings or accompanied the rite wore sacrificial dress. Fixed in Hongwu 26: from first through ninth rank, a blue gauze upper robe and white gauze under-robe, both with black-trimmed collars. A red gauze skirt with black border. A red gauze knee-apron. A square-heart curved collar-piece. Caps, belts, pendants, and tassel sashes followed the same gradations as court dress. Household sacrificial dress for ranked officials was also fixed. Third rank and above omitted the square-heart curved collar. Fourth rank and below omitted both pendant and tassel sash. In Jiajing 8 the sacrificial dress of all officials was revised. The upper robe was blue gauze with black border, as in court dress. The lower skirt was red gauze with black border, as in court dress. Knee-apron, sash-rings, great sash, leather belt, jade pendant, socks, and shoes all matched court dress. For inspecting sacrificial victims, the rites of the morning sun and evening moon, the sacred ploughing, and sacrifices to successive dynasties' emperors, only senior Brocade Guard hall officers wore great red python robes with flying-fish designs, black gauze caps, luan belts, and embroidered spring knives at the belt. For sacrifices at the Grand Temple and the altars of soil and grain they wore great red informal dress.
4
便 殿
On civil and military officials' service dress: Fixed in Hongwu 26, it was worn for daily morning and evening audiences, presenting business at court, attending roster duty, thanking for grace, and farewell audiences. Civil and military officials outside the capital wore it daily at their official seats. The garment was a round-collared, right-lapped robe of ramie silk, gauze, silk, or satin, with sleeves three feet wide. First through fourth ranks wore scarlet robes; fifth through seventh ranks wore blue robes; eighth and ninth ranks wore green robes; miscellaneous posts outside the rank stream used the same robe, tablet, and belt as eighth rank and below. Service-dress patterns: first rank, large single-branch flowers five inches across; second rank, small single-branch flowers three inches across; third rank, scattered floral roundels without branches or leaves, two inches across; fourth and fifth ranks, small mixed floral patterns one and a half inches across; sixth and seventh ranks, small mixed flowers one inch across; eighth rank and below had no pattern. Futou headwraps came in lacquered and gauze types, with spread corners one foot two inches long; miscellaneous posts had originally worn futou with hanging ribbons, but were later ordered to use spread corners without ribbons, the same as ranked officials. Court tablets followed the court-dress regulations. Waist belts: first rank, jade, patterned or plain; second rank, rhinoceros horn; third and fourth ranks, gold with lychee design; fifth rank and below, black horn. Socks were of blue leather, with tassel tails still hanging below. Boots were black. Later, regular audiences required only informal dress; service dress was worn fully only on the first and fifteenth of the month. Military officers on rotating guard had separate colors and were not bound by this rule. Dukes, marquises, imperial sons-in-law, and earls used the same colors, patterns, and waist belts as first rank. If officials could not obtain woven patterns, they wore plain cloth. Officials entering court in rain or snow were permitted rain cloaks. When presenting business in the Fengtian, Huagai, and Wuying halls, officials had to wear soft-sole court shoes; violators were impeached by the censors. In Wanli 5 regular audiences required each rank's brocade colors; for farewell and thanksgiving audiences, whether inside or outside the rank stream, service dress was used.
5
殿
On civil and military officials' regular dress: Fixed in Hongwu 3, for regular audiences and daily business the black gauze cap, round-collared robe, and bound belt served as everyday dress. Belts: first rank jade; second rank patterned rhinoceros horn; third rank gold chased with flowers; fourth rank plain gold; fifth rank silver chased with flowers; sixth and seventh ranks plain silver; eighth and ninth ranks black horn. Retired officials and those leaving office to attend kin wore gauze caps and bound belts. Those demoted for misconduct dressed as commoners. In the twenty-fourth year it was further fixed that dukes, marquises, earls, and imperial sons-in-law used the same belts as first rank, and miscellaneous posts the same as eighth and ninth ranks. Ceremonial shoes for officials' regular dress were fixed in Hongwu 6. Previously, when officials entered court in rain they all wore nailed boots, whose sound echoed through the hall; the Ceremonial Service asked that this be forbidden. The Taizu said, "In antiquity officials wore shoes in court; boots began only in Tang. Let court officials wear soft-soled leather shoes over their boots and remove them when leaving court."
6
穿
The Ministry of Rites reported that luxury and violations of rank had lately increased. An edict reiterated the ban and, drawing on Han and Tang regulations, promulgated rules for all to follow. Ranked officials: first and second ranks used patterned silks, gauze silks, and colored embroidery, with jade cap-tops and cap-beads; third through fifth ranks used patterned silks and gauze silks, with gold cap-tops and cap-beads of whatever material was used besides jade; sixth through ninth ranks used patterned silks and gauze silks, with silver cap-tops and cap-beads of agate, crystal, or fragrant wood. First through sixth ranks might wear four-clawed dragons; gold embroidery was permitted. The Ministry of Rites further argued, "It is improper in principle for ranked officials to greet their elders in the service dress worn when attending the ruler. A separate set should be made: beam-cap, deep-red upper robe and skirt, leather belt, great sash, great white socks, black shoes, and tassel sash, with border pleats removed from the garments. Third rank and above wore the tassel sash; below third rank did not." The proposal was approved.
7
In the twenty-second year officials were ordered to wear rain hats in rain and hats on public errands outside the capital, but not to wear hats when entering the city. In the twenty-third year the cut was fixed: civil officials' robes from collar to hem stood one inch above the ground, with sleeves past the hands and turned back to the elbow. Dukes, marquises, and imperial sons-in-law followed civil officials. Military officials' robes stood five inches above the ground, with sleeves seven inches past the hands. In the twenty-fourth year it was fixed that dukes, marquises, imperial sons-in-law, and earls wore robes embroidered with qilin and white ze. Civil officials: first rank, immortal crane; second rank, golden pheasant; third rank, peacock; fourth rank, cloud goose; fifth rank, white egret; sixth rank, egret; seventh rank, xichi; eighth rank, yellow oriole; ninth rank, quail; miscellaneous posts, practice magpie; censorial officials, xiezhi. Military officials: first and second ranks, lion; third and fourth ranks, tiger and leopard; fifth rank, bear; sixth and seventh ranks, leopard-cat; eighth rank, rhinoceros; ninth rank, sea horse. Ranked officials were again ordered to use mixed-color ramie silk, gauze silk, and colored embroidery for regular dress. Officials' garments and curtains might not use black, yellow, or purple, nor woven dragon-and-phoenix designs; violators were punished together with those who dyed or wove the cloth. Those attending court wore colored robes in all four seasons and might not wear plain white. In the thirtieth year retired officials were ordered to use the same colors as incumbents; for court congratulations, thanksgiving, and farewell audiences they wore full dress.
8
西 西
In Jingtai 4 Brocade Guard commanders on guard duty were permitted to wear qilin robes. In Tianshun 2 it was fixed that officials and commoners might not use python dragons, flying fish, fighting bulls, great peng birds, lifelike lions, four-treasure facing flowers, great western lotus, great cloud patterns, or the colors black, yellow, purple, plain black, green, willow yellow, ginger yellow, and bright yellow. In Hongzhi 13 it was memorialized and fixed that dukes, marquises, earls, civil and military ministers, and garrison commanders who improperly petitioned for python or flying-fish robes would be impeached by the censorate and punished severely. In Zhengde 11 the eastern and western guard halls were established, and officers and soldiers all wore yellow surcoats. Court and country followed the fashion. Even those in full gold and scarlet dress added the surcoat on top. Regional commander Jiang Bin and others, atop sun-red hats, attached indigo-dyed swan feathers as a mark of honor: the highest rank wore three plumes, the next rank two. Minister of War Wang Qiong received the gift of one plume and, from his cap to the drill ground, regarded it as a singular honor. Later, wherever the imperial tour passed, grain-supply vice ministers and grand coordinators all wore surcoats when appearing before the emperor. In the thirteenth year, when the imperial carriage returned to the capital, an order was transmitted that those welcoming it should wear trailing-sash robes, great hats, and luan belts. Soon each minister was bestowed a robe of great red ramie silk or gauze. The colors were: first rank, fighting bull; second rank, flying fish; third rank, python; fourth and fifth ranks, qilin; sixth and seventh ranks, tiger and leopard-cat; Hanlin and censorial officials of every rank were included; only ministry clerks below fifth rank were excluded. At the time civil officials also wore running-beast designs, and qilin robes even reached fourth rank—an especially irregular state of affairs.
9
In the sixteenth year, on his accession the Shizong issued an edict: "Lately jade belts, python dragons, flying fish, and fighting-bull colors have been usurped through petitions by miscellaneous low officials and regional generals seeking favor by connection; all are now forbidden. Military officers of low rank who usurped ducal and marquis colors were likewise forbidden. In Jiajing 6 officials throughout the realm were again forbidden to wear five-colored brocades or forbidden colors.
10
使 退 仿 仿
In the seventh year, after the regulations for at-home dress were fixed, Grand Secretary Zhang Cong said, "Ranked officials have no clear regulations for at-home dress, and eccentric persons compete in strange garments that disorder the statutes. I beg that we follow the ancient dark robe in devising a simpler system, proclaim it throughout the realm, and restore proper gradations between high and low. The emperor therefore drew up Illustrations of the Loyal Tranquility Cap and Dress and issued them to the Ministry of Rites, instructing: "Our ancestors consulted antiquity and fixed systems by which ranked officials' court and sacrificial dress each had its gradation. Yet ordinary human nature is careful in public and negligent in private. The ancient sage kings were mindful of this and made the dark robe for at-home dress. Lately clothing has grown bizarre, high and low are indistinguishable, and the people's standards cannot be settled. I have therefore drawn on the ancient dark robe and renamed it Loyal Tranquility, so that in advancing one may think of loyalty and in retiring one may think of correcting faults. I have already drawn up illustrations and explanations; make the garments according to the pattern. In the capital, officials of seventh rank and above, and in the Hanlin Academy, Directorate of Education, and Foreign Envoys Office of eighth rank and above, may wear it; outside the capital, regional officials, prefectural hall officers, district and county chief magistrates, and Confucian instructors may wear it. Military officers are limited to regional commanders and above. All others are forbidden to wear it improperly. The Ministry of Rites proclaimed the illustrations throughout the realm, and all obeyed as ordered. The Loyal Tranquility cap imitated the ancient dark cap: the frame followed regulation, was covered with black gauze, and both mountain-flanges were set at the rear. The crown top remained slightly raised at the square center; three ridges were each bound with gold thread and the border was edged in gold. Fourth rank and below omitted gold and used light-colored silk edging. The Loyal Tranquility robe imitated the ancient dark robe, in deep blue-green ramie silk, gauze, or silk. Third rank and above bore cloud patterns; fourth rank and below were plain; all were bordered in blue-green and bore rank badges front and rear. The deep robe was jade-colored. The plain sash followed the ancient great officer's sash: blue-green on the surface, green border and lining. Plain shoes with blue-green cord ties. White socks.
11
In the sixteenth year, when ministers attended court at the temporary residence, Minister of War Zhang Zan wore a python robe. The emperor was angry and told Grand Secretary Xia Yan, "A minister of second rank—why is he wearing python? Yan replied, "What Zhang wears is an imperially bestowed flying-fish robe; it is bright and merely resembles python. The emperor said, "How does a flying fish have two horns woven into it? Forbid it strictly. The Ministry of Rites then memorialized and fixed that civil and military officials might not usurp python robes, flying fish, fighting bulls, or other forbidden splendid colors. Great red ramie, gauze, or silk robes were permitted only to officials of fourth rank and above, to fifth-rank hall officers in the capital, and to Classics Lectern lecturers. Fifth-rank officials and those at the Classics Lectern who were not lecturers all wore blue-green brocade. For auspicious rites they wore only red cloth or fleece-brown garments. Ranked officials' patterns all followed rank. Brocade Guard commanders on guard duty might still wear qilin; those on salary but not on guard, and centurions and sub-officers even if on guard, might not usurp the privilege.
12
Imperially bestowed dress through the ages: civil ministers below first rank who received jade belts began with Academician Luo Furen in Hongwu. The Duke of Yansheng, though of orthodox second rank, received woven-gold qilin robes and jade belts when he entered court to bow in Jingtai. This thereafter became customary. Python robes bestowed on the Grand Secretariat began with Liu Jian and Li Dongyang in Hongzhi. Qilin was originally ducal and marquis dress, yet the Grand Secretariat wore it; in Jiajing both Yan Song and Xu Jie received the gift. The immortal crane was first-rank civil dress; in Jiajing the Duke of Chengguo Zhu Xizhong and regional commander Lu Bing wore it because they served at the Mysterious Altar. Yet academicians Yan Ne, Li Chunfang, and Dong Fen, though only fifth rank and composing green lyrics, were also bestowed the immortal crane. Soon it was ordered that only those serving at the altar might wear it, and thereafter ministers dared not wear the crane. Later Nanjing was ordered to weave flashing-yellow patches with qilin and immortal crane and bestow them on Yan Song—flashing yellow being an emperor's color; and Xu Jie was also bestowed a python robe showing a son teaching his father to ascend to heaven. In Wanli, Zhang Juzheng was bestowed a seated-python robe; and Marquis of Wuqing Li Wei, as the empress dowager's father, also received the gift.
13
Ceremonial sons-in-law's court, service, and regular dress all followed rank like civil and military officials, but all court tablets were ivory; regular-dress patterns followed military officials. Fixed in Hongzhi 13: a commandery princess's ceremonial son-in-law wore a chased-flower gold belt and lion badges on chest and back. A county princess's son-in-law wore a chased-flower gold belt; a commandery lady's son-in-law wore plain bright gold; both bore tiger-and-leopard badges. A county lady's son-in-law wore chased-flower silver; a township lady's son-in-law wore plain bright silver; both bore leopard-cat badges. Usurpers were stripped of cap and belt, made to wear a plain headcloth, and sent to a Confucian school to study rites for three years.
14
Caps and dress of the top graduate and presented scholars: the top graduate wore a two-ridged cap, scarlet gauze round-collared robe, white silk under-robe, brocade sash, knee-apron, gauze cap, locust-wood tablet, bright silver belt, medicinal-jade pendant, court boots, and felt socks—all bestowed before the throne and worn on the day of the thanksgiving memorial. Presented scholars' caps resembled the black gauze cap, with a slightly flat top, spread corners a little over an inch wide and about five inches long, tied with hanging ribbons of black gauze. A deep blue gauze robe bordered in blue gauze, with wide untapered sleeves. A locust-wood tablet, leather belt with blue girdle decorated in black horn, with tassel tails hanging behind. After the palace examination they were issued at the Directorate of Education and worn on the day of the transmission of felicitations. After the thanksgiving memorial, and after visiting the former teacher and performing the vegetable-release rite, they changed to regular dress; the cap and robe were sent back to the Directorate of Education for storage.
15
On titled ladies' caps and dress: Fixed in Hongwu 1, a first-rank titled lady's cap bore flower hairpins of nine trees. Two broad side-locks and nine tin ornaments. She wore a pheasant robe embroidered with nine layers of pheasant. A plain gauze under-robe with fu-pattern collar and vermilion continuous-border skirt. The knee-apron matched the skirt, with dark-red collar border, layered embroidered pheasant as insignia of two grades. A jade belt. Blue socks and shoes, with tassel sash. Second rank: flower hairpins of eight trees. Two broad side-locks and eight tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of eight grades, rhinoceros-horn belt; otherwise the same as first rank. Third rank: flower hairpins of seven trees. Two broad side-locks and seven tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of seven grades, gold leather belt; otherwise the same as second rank. Fourth rank: flower hairpins of six trees. Two broad side-locks and six tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of six grades, gold leather belt; otherwise the same as third rank. Fifth rank: flower hairpins of five trees. Two broad side-locks and five tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of five grades, black horn belt; otherwise the same as fourth rank. Sixth rank: flower hairpins of four trees. Two broad side-locks and four tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of four grades, black horn belt; otherwise the same as fifth rank. Seventh rank: flower hairpins of three trees. Two broad side-locks and three tin ornaments. A pheasant robe of three grades, black horn belt; otherwise the same as sixth rank. From first through fifth rank, robe color followed the husband's and was purple. Sixth and seventh ranks wore scarlet, following their husbands' color. The great sash matched the robe color. In the fourth year, following the ancient custom by which the Son of Heaven and feudal lords wore dragon-and-phoenix robes and coronets, empresses and their ladies also wore Yi-style pheasant robes. Since officials now wore the beam-cap and deep-red robes as court dress and no longer dared use the coronet, titled ladies outside the inner court likewise ought not wear pheasant robes at court. The emperor ordered the Ministry of Rites to deliberate the matter. Upon memorial it was fixed that titled ladies' court dress would comprise a mountain-pine special topknot, false side-lock flower-and-tin ornaments, a true-red large-sleeved robe, and a pearl-and-kingfisher couched-gold cloud collar. For everyday wear they used a vermilion kingfisher horn crown, gold-and-pearl flower hairpins, and wide-sleeved garments of mixed colors with green borders. First rank: a cloud collar embroidered in gold with patterned designs, gold pearl-and-kingfisher ornaments, and a jade pendant. Second rank: a cloud collar with gold-embroidered cloud-shoulder and large mixed floral designs, gold pearl-and-kingfisher ornaments, and a gold pendant. Third rank: a cloud collar with gold-embroidered large mixed floral designs, pearl-and-kingfisher ornaments, and a gold pendant. Fourth rank: a cloud collar embroidered with small mixed floral designs, kingfisher ornaments, and a gold pendant. Fifth rank: a cut-gold cloud collar with large mixed floral designs, printed colored-silk raised-flower ornaments, and a gold pendant. Sixth and seventh ranks: a cut-gold cloud collar with small mixed floral designs, printed colored-silk raised-flower ornaments, and a gilded silver pendant. Eighth and ninth ranks: a plain great-red gauze cloud collar, printed colored-silk ornaments, and a silver pendant. Head ornaments: first and second ranks used gold, jade, pearl, and kingfisher. Third and fourth ranks: gold, pearl, and kingfisher. Fifth rank: gold and kingfisher. Sixth rank and below: gold-plated silver, with pearls used sparingly.
16
In the fifth year the caps and dress of titled ladies of ranked officials were revised. First rank: for ceremonial dress, a mountain-pine special topknot with five kingfisher pine sprays and eight gold pheasants, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. On the front: one pearl-and-kingfisher pheasant, four pearl-and-kingfisher flowers, and three pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud flowers; At the rear: one pearl shuttle ball, one pearl-and-kingfisher flying pheasant, four pearl-and-kingfisher combs, one gold cloud-head linked triple hairpin, one pearl-curtain comb, and two gold hairpins; One pair of pearl shuttle rings. The large-sleeved robe was true red. Both the cloud collar and over-jacket were deep blue-green. Ramie silk, damask, gauze, or plain gauze might be used as appropriate. The cloud collar bore couched-gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants, with a chased-floral gold pendant. The over-jacket bore gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants. Everyday dress comprised a pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud crown with three pearl-and-kingfisher pheasants and one gold pheasant, the latter holding a pearl knot in its beak; Beside the side-locks: two pearl-and-kingfisher flowers, one pair of small pearl-and-kingfisher combs, one gold cloud-head linked triple hairpin, two gold side-lock-pressing double-head hairpins, one gold temple comb, and two gold hairpins; One pair of gold-foot pearl-and-kingfisher Buddha-face rings; Bracelets and armlets were all of gold. The long jacket and long skirt might be of various colors in ramie silk, damask, gauze, or plain gauze as appropriate. The long jacket had a bordered hem in purple or green, with couched-gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants. The ornamental sash was red, green, or purple, with couched-gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants. The long skirt bore gold embroidery of entwined floral sprays in horizontal and vertical bands. Second rank: seven gold pheasants on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak; otherwise the same as first rank. Everyday dress was also the same as first rank. Third rank: six gold peacocks on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. On the front: one pearl-and-kingfisher peacock; at the rear: two kingfisher peacocks. The cloud collar bore couched-gold clouds, mist, and peacocks, with a chased-floral gold pendant. The over-jacket bore gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and peacocks; otherwise the same as second rank. Everyday dress: a crown with three pearl-and-kingfisher peacocks and two gold peacocks, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. The long jacket had a bordered hem. The ornamental sash was purple or green, embroidered with clouds, mist, and peacocks. The long skirt bore bar-pattern bands embroidered with entwined floral sprays; otherwise the same as second rank. Fourth rank: five gold peacocks on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak; otherwise the same as third rank. Everyday dress was also the same as third rank. Fifth rank: four gilded silver mandarin ducks on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. On the front: one pearl-and-kingfisher mandarin duck and three small pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud flowers; At the rear: two kingfisher mandarin ducks, one gilded silver cloud-head linked triple hairpin, one small pearl-curtain comb, and two gilded silver hairpins; One pair of small pearl comb rings. The cloud collar bore embroidery of clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks, with a gilded silver chased-floral pendant. The over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks; otherwise the same as fourth rank. Everyday dress: a crown with three small pearl-and-kingfisher mandarin ducks, two gilded silver mandarin ducks, and a pearl plaque pendant. Beside the side-locks: two small pearl-and-kingfisher flowers, one cloud-head linked triple hairpin, one comb, two side-lock-pressing double-head hairpins, and two gilded hairpins; One pair of silver-foot pearl-and-kingfisher Buddha-face rings. Bracelets and armlets were all of gilded silver. The long jacket had a bordered hem embroidered with clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks. The long skirt bore bar-pattern bands embroidered with entwined floral sprays; otherwise the same as fourth rank. Sixth rank: three kingfisher pine sprays and four gilded silver white magpies on the special topknot, each holding a pearl knot in its beak. On the front: one gilded silver white magpie and four small pearl-and-kingfisher flowers; At the rear: one kingfisher shuttle ball, two kingfisher white magpies, four kingfisher combs, one silver cloud-head linked triple hairpin, one pearl-edged kingfisher curtain comb, and two silver hairpins. The large-sleeved robe might be of damask, gauze, or ramie silk as appropriate. The cloud collar bore embroidery of clouds, mist, and white magpies, with a floral silver pendant. The over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and white magpies; otherwise the same as fifth rank. Everyday dress: a crown with three gilded silver white magpies and two more gilded silver white magpies, with a small pearl plaque pendant; Bracelets and armlets were all of silver. The long jacket had a bordered hem. The ornamental sash was purple or green, embroidered with clouds, mist, and white magpies. The long skirt bore bar-pattern bands embroidered with entwined floral sprays; otherwise the same as fifth rank. Seventh rank: both ceremonial dress and everyday dress were the same as sixth rank. Eighth and ninth ranks: ceremonial dress comprised only the large-sleeved robe, cloud collar, and over-jacket. The great robe was the same as seventh rank. The cloud collar was embroidered with entwined floral sprays and bore a chased-floral silver pendant. The over-jacket was embroidered with plucked-branch round floral medallions. They generally used the small-pearl auspicious-cloud crown. Everyday dress also used the small-pearl auspicious-cloud crown, with three partly gilded silver white magpies and two more partly gilded silver white magpies, and a small pearl plaque pendant; One partly gilded silver cloud-head linked triple hairpin, two partly gilded silver side-lock-pressing double-head hairpins, one partly gilded silver temple comb, and two partly gilded silver hairpins. The long jacket's bordered hem and ornamental sash were both embroidered with entwined floral sprays; otherwise the same as seventh rank. Regulations were also fixed for titled ladies' round-collar robes of red gauze, with layered embroidered pheasants denoting rank. First rank: nine grades of pheasants; second rank: eight; third rank: seven; fourth rank: six; fifth rank: five; sixth rank: four; seventh rank: three; lower ranks bore no embroidered pheasants.
17
In the twenty-fourth year it was fixed that titled ladies wore ceremonial dress after audience with the ruler, when receiving parents-in-law at home together with their husbands, and at sacrifices. The ladies of dukes, marquises, and earls were the same as first rank. The large-sleeved robe was true red. First through fifth ranks: ramie silk or damask gauze; Sixth through ninth ranks: damask, gauze, or ramie silk. Both the cloud collar and over-jacket were of deep blue satin. For dukes, marquises, and first and second ranks: gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and pheasants; Third and fourth ranks: gold embroidery of clouds, mist, and peacocks; Fifth rank: embroidery of clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks; Sixth and seventh ranks: embroidery of clouds, mist, and white magpies. The large-sleeved robe had a collar three inches wide; both collar panels hung straight down one foot, with three buttons spaced along them and two at the hem. The buttons sat beneath the overlapping collar flap and were released when bowing. Two cloud collars, each embroidered with seven birds according to rank—four in front and three in back. The pendant bore one chased-floral bird at its center and cloud-and-mist patterns on all four sides; the birds matched those on the cloud collar and varied by rank. The tablet was made of ivory. Fixed in the twenty-sixth year: for first rank, the crown used gold fittings, with five pearl pheasants, two fully open pearl peonies, three half-open peonies, twenty-four kingfisher-feather cloud pieces, eighteen kingfisher peony leaves, one set of kingfisher mouth-rim, eight gold jeweled hairpin flowers on top, two gold pheasants, and two pearl knots held in the beak. Second through fourth ranks: the crown used gold fittings, with four pearl pheasants, two fully open pearl peonies, four half-open peonies, twenty-four kingfisher cloud pieces, eighteen kingfisher peony leaves, one set of kingfisher mouth-rim, eight gold jeweled hairpin flowers on top, two gold pheasants, and two pearl knots held in the beak. First and second ranks: both cloud collar and over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and pheasants, with a chased-floral gold pendant. Third and fourth ranks: both cloud collar and over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and peacocks, with a chased-floral gold pendant. Fifth and sixth ranks: the crown used gilt-silver fittings, with three pearl pheasants, two fully open pearl peonies, five half-open peonies, twenty-four kingfisher cloud pieces, eighteen kingfisher peony leaves, one set of kingfisher mouth-rim, eight gilt-silver jeweled hairpin flowers on top, two gilt-silver pheasants, and two pearl knot pendants held in the beak. Fifth rank: both cloud collar and over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and mandarin ducks, with a gold-plated chased-floral silver pendant. Sixth rank: both cloud collar and over-jacket bore clouds, mist, and white magpies, with a chased-floral silver pendant. Seventh through ninth ranks: the crown used gilt-silver fittings, with two pearl pheasants, two fully open pearl osmanthus blossoms, six half-open blossoms, twenty-four kingfisher cloud pieces, eighteen kingfisher osmanthus leaves, one set of kingfisher mouth-rim, eight gilt-silver jeweled hairpin flowers on top, two gilt-silver pheasants, and two pearl knot pendants held in the beak. Seventh rank: the cloud collar, pendant, and over-jacket were the same as sixth rank. Eighth and ninth ranks: the cloud collar was embroidered with entwined floral sprays; the pendant was the same as seventh rank; the over-jacket bore plucked-branch round floral medallions.
18
婿穿
Crowns and robes for the kin of inner and outer officials: in the first year of Hongwu, Minister of Rites Cui Liang was ordered to deliberate and set the regulations. Fathers, elder brothers, uncles, younger brothers, nephews, sons, and grandsons of inner and outer officials wore black gauze caps with soft hanging flaps, round-collar robes, and black horn belts. For the grandmothers and mothers of ranked officials, and for daughters-in-law of sons and grandsons in the same household, together with wives of close younger brothers and nephews, ceremonial dress followed the husband's or son's official rank: lacquered gauze pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud crowns, rank-appropriate robes, cloud collars, over-jackets, and bordered jacket-and-skirt sets. The mountain-loose special bun was permitted only for women who had received patents of enfeoffment. Secondary wives of ranked officials were allowed to wear pearl-and-kingfisher auspicious-cloud crowns and over-jackets of their husband's rank as ceremonial dress. Everyday dress consisted of a gilded wide-collar long jacket and long skirt. In the twenty-fifth year, fathers, elder brothers, uncles, younger brothers, nephews, and sons-in-law of civil and military officials were all permitted to wear boots.
19
使使 使 使 便 姿沿
Crowns and robes of inner attendants: in the early Ming the Directorate of Palace Attendants was established. They wore black gauze caps with gold-painted curved flaps, narrow-sleeved round-collar shirts bearing chest-and-back floral panels, black horn belts, and boots with red vamps and black counters. Fire-tenders in the various palaces dressed the same as commoners. In the third year of Hongwu the emperor instructed his chief ministers that unattached attendants of the directorate should wear a distinct cap to distinguish them from ranked directorate officials. The Ministry of Rites submitted regulations: whenever the directorate attended court assemblies, its members wore court dress and uniform robes appropriate to their ranks. Everyday dress was a round-collar shirt with sunflower chest-and-back panels, without restriction on color; a black gauze cap; and a rhinoceros-horn belt. Unranked attendants wore round-collar shirts without chest-and-back panels, in any color; black horn belts; black gauze caps with soft hanging bands. Those fifteen or younger wore only small-topped black gauze caps. According to the Record of Major Policies, after the Yongle reign eunuchs at the emperor's side invariably wore python robes cut like yisagu coats, with pythons embroidered on either side and secured with phoenix belts—informal dress. Next in rank were flying-fish robes, worn only when entering attendance on the emperor. Powerful eunuchs of high standing were granted python robes—a privilege not easily granted even to civil and military officials of first rank. On single-python robes the beasts all faced obliquely; on seated-python robes they faced directly forward—the latter especially prized. There were also knee-kilt robes, likewise cut like yisagu, with python patches above and fine horizontal cloud-pythons woven at the knee—garments for escorting the emperor at the Southern Suburban Altar and at imperial tombs, where ease on horseback mattered. When the emperor summoned his ministers for audience or informal meetings, both sides often wore these rather than formal robes; only the pythons differed as five-claw or four-claw, and the kilts as red or yellow. In the first year of Hongzhi, Censor-in-chief Bian Yong said, "Ranked officials of our dynasty have no prescribed python robes. Pythons have neither horns nor feet, yet many inner attendants now petition for python robes that greatly resemble dragons. This is not according to regulation. An edict was issued forbidding the practice. In the seventeenth year the emperor instructed Grand Secretary Liu Jian, saying, "The presumptuous excesses of inner attendants are especially numerous. He then spoke of forbidden dress colors, saying, "Pythons, dragons, flying fish, and bull-fight patterns are among the categories expressly forbidden; they must not be woven privately. Occasionally robes are granted by imperial bestowal; when these grow old and worn, attendants should not casually have new ones woven for themselves. Black, yellow, purple, and dark brown are strictly forbidden; even willow yellow, bright yellow, and ginger yellow ought to be banned. Emperor Xiaozong applied himself keenly to restraint, and so issued these repeated admonitions, yet inner attendants had long been arrogant and old habits endured—the practice could not be stopped. At first Taizu fixed dress for inner attendants: their gauze caps differed from those of ministers, and they had neither court crowns, nor futou, nor sacrificial robes. In the early Wanli period, when Emperor Muzong entered the Imperial Ancestral Temple as ruling sovereign, eunuchs followed in large-frame jinxian caps and sacrificial robes. The inner palace routinely dispatched central attendants to sacrifice to the gods of the central drain, stove, and well, and on that precedent they devised sacrificial dress for themselves—not by deliberation of the court.
20
Crowns and robes of ceremonial attendants: in the second year of Hongwu, ritual officials deliberated and fixed the regulations. Ceremonial attendants guided ritual proceedings. Following Yuan precedent, they wore extended-flap futou, narrow-sleeved purple shirts, gilded belts, and black-pattern boots. Everyday dress: black gauze Tang caps, round-collar shirts in various colors, and black horn belts; yellow was not permitted for the shirts. In the fourth year the Secretariat fixed regulations: ceremonial attendants, together with the Censorate's rank-knowers who guided ritual proceedings, wore jinxian crowns without crossbars and crimson robes; their apron panels, shoes, socks, belts, and tablets matched ninth rank, except that they did not wear the inner undergarment.
21
穿
Crowns and robes of guard officers: fixed in the third year of Hongwu. Bearers of ceremonial staves all wore crossed-flap futou with gold-threaded foreheads; their dress included skirt-jackets in various colors bearing demon-quelling and precious-flower motifs, copper sunflower belts, and black-pattern boots. In the sixth year guard officers were ordered to wear zhisun robes, belts, futou, and boots or shoes. Zhisun—also written zhitu-sun—was originally a Yuan institution: essentially a one-color garment. In the fourteenth year they changed to gold-goose caps: black lacquer with raised-gold lychee-and-copper-nail patterns, every five nails clustered together, with slightly raised bordering on all four sides, tightly bound with a green sash. In the twenty-second year generals, strongmen, guard officers, and banner soldiers were ordered routinely to wear headcloths or ke-nao caps. In the twenty-fifth year guard officers and strongmen on palace duty were permitted to wear boots, but not when going out in public.
22
Crowns and robes of qieqi runners: the Song established fast-travel personal attendants; in the early Ming they were called qieqi. They wore square-topped cloth caps, robes with hawk-and-kite chest-and-back panels, floral waistbands, thread jackets, broad flat silk sashes in various colors, large carved ivory sash rings, and eight-band leg-wrapping shoes. In the sixth year of Hongwu they were restricted to carved ivory sash rings; otherwise their dress was the same as commoners'.
23
Caps and robes of Confucian scholars, students, and Imperial Academy students: in the third year of Hongwu scholars were ordered to wear the Square Peace cap. In the twenty-third year regulations fixed scholars' and students' robes: from collar to hem one inch above the ground; sleeves extending past the hands, turned back to no more than three inches above the elbow. In the twenty-fourth year, because scholars' caps and robes differed little from those of clerks and runners, distinction was needed; the Ministry of Works was ordered to prepare models for the emperor's review. Taizu inspected them in person, and only after three revisions were the forms fixed. Students wore kilt-robes of jade-colored cloth or silk, with wide sleeves and black borders, black sashes, and soft cloth caps with hanging bands. Those entering the academy through the tribute examination kept the dress they already wore. In the late Hongwu period sun-shade caps were permitted; afterward people wore them without authorization. During the Hongxi reign the emperor asked who the men in blue robes were; his attendants replied that they were academy students. The emperor said, "Green would look better. The robes were changed to green round-collar garments. In the twenty-second year of Jiajing the Ministry of Rites reported that scholars' caps and robes had grown bizarre, including Lingyun and other irregular caps greatly at odds with ritual regulation; an edict ordered the authorities to forbid them. In the second year of Wanli, tribute scholars, academy students, and literati were forbidden to wear presumptuously Zhongjing caps and cloth, brocade-embroidered shoes, parasols and canopies, or warm ear-covers; violators were seized by censors of the Five Districts for inquiry.
24
穿穿
Crowns and robes of commoners: in the early Ming, commoners at marriage were permitted to borrow ninth-rank dress. In the third year of Hongwu commoners at first wore four-band caps, then changed to Square Peace caps and round-collar robes in miscellaneous colors; yellow was forbidden. Regulations also forbade men and women from wearing gold embroidery, brocade, ramie silk, damask, or gauze, limiting them to ramie, silk, and plain gauze; boots could not be cut with floral patterns or trimmed with gold thread. Head ornaments, hairpins, and bracelets could not use gold, jade, or kingfisher feathers—only silver. In the sixth year commoners were forbidden cap rings of gold, jade, agate, coral, or amber. Those not entered in the rank rolls were subject to the same rules. Commoners' caps could not have domed tops; cap beads were limited to crystal and fragrant wood. In the fourteenth year farmers were permitted ramie, gauze, silk, and cloth; merchants and traders only silk and cloth. In farm households where one member engaged in trade, even farmers could not wear ramie or gauze. In the twenty-second year farmers were permitted to wear bamboo or sedge-leaf hats in markets and streets without penalty; those not engaged in farming were not. In the twenty-third year regulations for elders' dress fixed sleeves extending past the hands, turned back to no more than three inches above the elbow; Commoners' robes hung one hand-span above the ground, with sleeves extending six inches past the hands, sleeve bands one foot wide, and cuff openings five inches. In the twenty-fifth year, because violations had proliferated—boots artfully cut with floral patterns and inlaid with gold-thread blue bands—an edict ordered the Ministry of Rites strictly to forbid commoners from wearing boots, allowing only simple leather pazhabo boots; in the cold north alone straight-seamed cowhide boots were permitted. In the first year of Zhengde merchants, servants, actors, and people of base birth were forbidden to wear sable fur. In the sixteenth year soldiers and civilians were forbidden purple floral sleeveless armor; surveillance officers were to seize anyone wearing it at forbidden gates or wandering abroad.
25
使 使
Crowns and robes of scholars' and commoners' wives: fixed in the third year of Hongwu. Their head ornaments were silver with gold plating; earrings were gold beads; bracelets and armlets were silver; dress was light-colored round shirts of ramie silk, damask, gauze, or ramie. In the fifth year commoners' wives were limited to purple woven silk for ceremonial dress, without gold embroidery; robes and shirts to purple, green, peach pink, and other pale colors—never large red, crow blue, or yellow; sashes were of blue silk cloth. Unmarried women wore three small buns, gold hairpins, pearl headpieces, and narrow-sleeved over-jackets. Maidservants wore high topknots, narrow-collar long jackets of silk or cloth, and long skirts. Junior maidservants wore double buns, long-sleeved short jackets, and long skirts. In the tenth year of Chenghua officials' and commoners' wives were forbidden to wear solid-gold clothing or gemstone head ornaments. In the first year of Zhengde soldiers' and civilians' wives were forbidden gilded clothing and hangings, gemstone head ornaments, bracelets, and armlets.
26
Crowns and robes of music-masters and ritual dancers: in the early Ming, suburban, ancestral, and temple rites used elegant music. The music-master wore futou, a purple gauze robe, and a lychee belt; Dancers wore crimson robes and extended-flap futou; Dance performers wore futou, red gauze robes, lychee belts, and black boots; Civil dance students wore red robes and martial dance students crimson robes, all with extended-flap futou, leather belts, and black boots. For the nine movements of great music at court assemblies, singers wore the Single Zhonghua cap, red gauze patterned large-sleeved jackets painted with oriole and parrot designs, red raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, apricot-red silk skirts, white silk wide trousers, green silk sashes, white silk socks, and tea-brown shoes. The harmony masters who conducted the music wore black gauze broad-ribbon caps, blue gauze large-sleeved jackets, red raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, gilt waist-belts, and black boots. The three dances were as follows:
27
First, the martial dance, called "The Dance of Pacifying All Under Heaven." All dance performers wore gold hair-binding crowns with purple silk tassels, blue gauze patterned narrow-sleeved jackets painted with dancing cranes, white raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, red gauze gold-cutwork large-sleeved outer robes and skirts, black patterned jackets with painted floral borders, white gauze gold-cutwork fitted trousers with blue-green gauze gold-cutwork borders, red silk neck wraps and knot ornaments, red silk waist bindings, gilt waist-belts, green silk great sashes, brocade arm guards, and black boots with green cloud-toe caps. Dance masters wore gold hair-binding crowns with purple silk tassels, blue gauze large-sleeved jackets, white silk under-jackets, brocade collars, gilt waist-belts, and black boots with green cloud-toe caps.
28
Second, the civil dance, called "The Dance of Chariots and Script in Universal Harmony." All dance performers wore lacquered-black gold-traced square mountain crowns with green silk tassels, red gauze large-sleeved jackets, red raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, red gauze neck wraps and knot ornaments, gilt waist-belts, white silk wide trousers, white silk socks, and tea-brown shoes. Dance masters wore the same crowns and dress as the performers, except that their large-sleeved jackets were of blue gauze and they did without red gauze neck wraps or red knot ornaments.
29
西
Third, the civil dance, called "The Dance of Pacifying the Four Barbarians." Four Eastern Yi dancers wore topknots at the back, red gold-cutwork head cords, red gauze gold-cutwork forehead bands centered with gilt Bo Mountain ornaments and gilt cap rings on either side, bright-gold earrings, blue gauze patterned painted floral large-sleeved jackets with red patterned collars and sleeves, red gauze gold-cutwork skirts with blue gold-cutwork borders, red raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, gilt waist-belts, and black leather boots. Four Western Rong dancers wore striped brocade head wraps and bright-gold earrings, red ramie fine-pleated jackets, large red gauze patterned cloud-shoulders with green patterned borders, blue-green gauze gold-cutwork fitted trousers, red gold-cutwork border waist girdles, ten-string gilt prayer beads, five-color gold-cutwork gauze incense pouches, red silk neck wraps and knot ornaments, and red leather boots. Four Southern Man dancers wore sky-facing buns with red gauze patterned silver hairpins, red gold-cutwork forehead bands, and bright-gold earrings, red brocade-gold short jackets, green brocade-gold fine-pleated short skirts, velvet brocade trousers, striped ramie hand towels, gilt top plaques, gold-pearl necklaces strung with small gold bells, brocade leg wraps, gilt lion-barbarian belts, green gold-cutwork neck wraps, red knot ornaments, and red leather boots. Four Northern Di dancers wore Chanyu crowns with sable fur brims and double hanging buns, red gold-cutwork head cords, red gauze gold-cutwork forehead bands, multi-colored fine-pleated jackets, blue-green patterned cloud-shoulders, red knot ornaments, red gold-cutwork fitted trousers with waist girdles, and black leather boots. All dance masters wore white rolled-brim felt caps with gilt tops and a spray of red tassels, purple gauze cap straps, red-green gold-embroidered jackets, white gold-cutwork fitted trousers with blue-green gold-cutwork borders, gilt waist-belts, green neck wraps, red knot ornaments, and red leather boots.
30
All great music workers and civil and martial dance musicians wore curved-flap futou, red gauze patterned painted floral large-sleeved jackets, gilt waist-belts, red silk neck wraps and knot ornaments, and black leather boots. Four-barbarian musicians all wore lotus caps, multi-colored fine-pleated jackets, white gold-cutwork fitted trousers with red gold-cutwork borders, red-green silk waist bindings, red gauze neck wraps and knot ornaments, and floral boots.
31
殿 沿
During the Yongle reign regulations were set for hall music accompanying offerings at meals. For "The Dance of Pacifying All Under Heaven," lead dancers and musicians all wore blue gauze wrapped caps, blue, red, green, and jade-colored gauze gold-cutwork chest-and-back jackets, solid-gold copper belts, red gauze crossed sashes, cloud-toe black boots, and blue-green gauze gold-cutwork hip wraps. The dancers' dress colors matched. For "The Dance of Pacifying the Four Barbarians," four Goryeo dancers all wore bamboo hats, blue gauze gold-cutwork chest-and-back jackets, copper belts, and black boots; Four Ryukyu dancers all wore cotton floral hand towels, blue gauze large-sleeved jackets, copper belts, white polished silk striped wide trousers, and black leather boots; Four northern frontier dancers all wore fox-fur caps, blue-red ramie gold-cutwork jackets, and copper belts; Four Wulu Su Huihui dancers all wore blue gauze caps, Bilikhan cotton floral hand towels, copper belts, and black boots. For "The Dance of Chariots and Script in Universal Harmony," dancers all wore black gauze headcloths, blue, green, and jade-colored black-bordered robes, and tea-brown cord-trimmed black leather four-panel boots. For "The Dance of Setting Right the Myriad States," two lead dancers wore blue gauze wrapped caps, red gauze gold-cutwork neck scarves, red raw-silk brocade-collared under-robes, red raw-silk gold-cutwork full-sleeved jackets, green cord copper belts, brocade arm guards, cloud-toe black boots, multi-colored gold-cutwork hip wraps, and red silk crossed sashes. Dancers and musicians wore the same dress colors as the lead dancers. For "The Dance of Heaven's Mandate and Virtue," two lead dancers wore blue gauze ruyi crowns, red raw-silk brocade-collared under-robes, red raw-silk large-sleeved robes, multi-colored silk painted straight leg wraps, black-horn side belts, blue silk cloud-pattern cloud-toe black boots, and white cloth socks. Dancers and musicians wore the same dress colors as the lead dancers.
32
In the fifth year of Hongwu crowns and dress were fixed for fasting officers, music students, and civil and martial dance students. Fasting officers wore black jieze of lacquered cloth, without pattern; they wore red silk narrow-sleeved jackets lined with red raw silk; black leather four-panel boots; and black-horn belts. Civil dance students and music students wore black jieze of lacquered cloth with gold-traced cicadas added on top; they wore red silk large-sleeved robes with chest and back painted in entwined square sunflowers, lined with red raw silk, and two brocade arm guards; black leather four-panel boots; and black-horn belts. Martial dance students wore military caps of lacquered cloth with gold-traced cicadas added on top; their dress, boots, and belts were the same as those of civil dance students. In the ninth year of Jiajing the dress system for civil and martial dance students was fixed: at the Circular Mound Altar they wore blue ramie silk; at the Square Mound Altar, black-green gauze; at the Morning Sun Altar, red gauze; and at the Evening Moon Altar, jade-colored gauze.
33
調
Crowns and dress for palace women's music were fixed in the third year of Hongwu. Wives of Inner Palace women who served music, carried imperial insignia, and the like wore natural wrapped buns and blue gauze round collars. Directors of women's music wore black lacquered Tang caps, large red gauze gold-cutwork floral round collars, gold-plated floral belts, and black boots. Song-reciting women musicians wore black lacquered Tang caps, large red gauze gold-cutwork skirt-jackets, chest sashes, large red gauze forehead bands, blue-green gauze painted cloud-shoulders, and black boots with gold-traced peonies. Instrument-playing women musicians wore the same dress colors as song-reciting musicians. In the ninth year of Jiajing, when sacrificing to the Silkworm Goddess, crowns and dress were fixed for women music students. They wore black crepe gauze gold-traced cicada crowns with black silk tassels, black plain gauze gold-cutwork sunflower chest-and-back large-sleeved women's robes, black raw-silk under-jackets, brocade collars, gilt waist-belts, white socks, and black shoes.
34
穿
Crowns and dress of the Directorate of Music were fixed in the third year of Hongwu. Directorate music performers wore blue-character top caps with red-green crossed sashes attached. Music courtesans wore bright-horn crowns and black beizi, and were not permitted to dress like commoners' wives. Chief performers before the throne wore processional music caps, red gauze chest-and-back small-sleeved robes, red silk crossed sashes, and black boots. Section chiefs wore processional music caps, red-blue gauze ramie painted hundred-flower robes, and red silk crossed sashes. Singers wore cap crowns, red gauze brocade-gold chest-and-back large-sleeved robes, red raw-silk brocade-collared under-robes, black-horn belts, red finished-silk brocade ankle trousers, black leather qin shoes, and white cotton lined socks. Musicians wore the same dress colors as singers. Directorate officials' everyday caps and belts matched those of the hundred officials; when serving before the throne they carried powder-lacquered tablets and wore black lacquered futou, black-green gauze large-sleeved patterned robes, black-horn side belts, and black boots. Directorate performers wore green caps in everyday dress to distinguish them from scholars and commoners. All musicians wore processional music caps, using red crossed sashes rather than brocade sashes, and their dress colors were not restricted to red and green. Directorate women were not permitted to wear crowns and wore beizi instead. Musicians' clothing was limited to bright green, peach pink, jade color, water red, and tea brown. Performers, section chiefs, and musicians all wore black headcloths and multi-colored sashes.
35
Crowns and dress for princely establishment musicians were fixed in the fifteenth year of Hongwu. For all congratulatory audiences using great music at banquets, musicians for the seven movements all wore red silk painted chest-and-back square floral small-sleeved single robes, floral processional music caps, brocade arm guards, and black boots, with forehead bands of red gauze painted designs and waist bindings of red silk. Other musicians wore green silk painted chest-and-back square floral small-sleeved single robes, plain processional music caps, forehead bands of red silk painted designs, and waist bindings of red silk.
36
使
Crowns and dress for black-clad runners and government servants were fixed in the third year of Hongwu: black-clad runners wore domed caps and black clothing. In the fourth year black-clad government messengers were fixed to wear black round-collar shirts, flat-topped caps, white crossed sashes, and tin plaques. In the fourteenth year gate guards of each guard post, who had originally worn black clothing, were ordered to change to pale blue. In the twenty-fifth year black-clad attendants were forbidden to wear boots and were limited to leather pazhabo boots.
37
Crowns and dress for foreign rulers and ministers: in the second year of Hongwu, when Goryeo came to court and requested sacrificial dress regulations, the court ordered them made and granted. In the twenty-seventh year regulations for vassal tribute ceremonies were fixed: when kings came to court, if granted court dress they wore it at audience. In the thirty-first year crowns and dress were granted to the king of Ryukyu and his ministers. During Yongle the Chungshan king of Ryukyu was granted leather caps, jade tablets, python robes, and rhinoceros belts, treated as second rank. In the third year of Xuande King Yi Hu of Joseon said: "In Hongwu we were granted the king's nine-emblem sacrificial dress; attendant ministers' crowns and dress were two ranks below the court, so first-rank attendants matched third-rank court officials and received five-ridge crowns and dress. Early in Yongle my late father Pangyŏn sent the heir Ti to court, and he was granted five-ridge crowns and dress. Your subject ventures to consider that the heir's crowns and dress far exceed those of first-rank attendants; I beg that this be made a fixed regulation." The court then ordered a six-ridge crown made and granted. In the sixth year of Jiajing foreign tribute missions entering court were forbidden to use unauthorized dress. Violators were punished alike, whether seller or buyer.
38
Buddhist and Daoist dress was fixed in the fourteenth year of Hongwu. Chan monks wore tea-brown everyday dress and jade-colored kasaya with green sashes. Lecture monks wore jade-colored everyday dress and pale-red kasaya with green sashes. Teaching monks wore black everyday dress and pale-red kasaya with black sashes. Buddhist officials followed the same rule. Only the kasaya of Buddhist Registry officials had green brocade and rings all ornamented with gold. Daoist priests wore blue ritual robes in everyday dress and all-red court dress; Daoist officials followed the same rule. Only the ritual robes and court dress of Daoist Registry officials had green brocade ornamented with gold. All Daoist officials in the capital wore red Daoist robes with gold brocade borders and carried wooden tablets. Daoist officials outside the capital wore red Daoist robes and carried wooden tablets, without gold brocade borders. Daoist priests wore blue Daoist robes and carried wooden tablets.
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