1
輿服上
Carriages and Clothing, Part One
2
天子車輅、皇后妃嬪車輦、皇太子車制、王公以下車制及鞍勒飾
The Emperor's State Carriages; Palanquins for the Empress and Consorts; Regulations for the Crown Prince's Carriage; Carriage Regulations for Princes, Dukes, and Those of Lower Rank; and Ornamentation for Saddles and Bridles
3
古者軍輿之制，各有名物表識，以祀以封，以田以戎，所以別上下、明等威也。 歷代相承，互有損益，或因時創始，或襲舊致文，奇巧日滋，浮靡益蕩。 加以後世便習騎乘，車用蓋寡，惟於郊廟祀享法駕導引，為一代令儀而不敢廢也。 其于先王經世立法之意，寥乎闊哉！ 金初得遼之儀物，既而克宋，於是乎有車輅之制。 熙宗幸燕，始用法駕。 迨至世宗，製作乃定，班班乎古矣！ 考禮文，證國史，以見一代之制度雲。
In antiquity, regulations governing military carriages assigned distinct names and identifying insignia to each type, whether for sacrifice, enfeoffment, the hunt, or war—so that rank and authority could be clearly distinguished. Successive dynasties inherited these practices, each altering them here and there; some devised new forms to suit the times, others preserved old models for the sake of display. Ingenuity grew ever more elaborate, and lavish excess spread ever wider. Later ages moreover grew accustomed to riding horseback, so that carriages fell largely out of use. They survived only in the imperial procession at suburban and temple sacrifices, where they remained the prescribed ceremonial of the dynasty—and even that ritual no one dared abolish. As for the intent of the former kings in establishing institutions to govern the world—that purpose now seems remote indeed. When the Jin first acquired the Liao ceremonial regalia and later conquered the Song, they then established regulations for state carriages. When Emperor Xizong visited Yan, he first employed the full imperial procession. By the reign of Emperor Shizong, the specifications were finally settled—splendid indeed, in the manner of antiquity! By examining ritual texts and verifying them against dynastic histories, one may discern the institutions of the age.
4
大定十一年，將有事於南郊，命太常寺檢宋南郊禮，鹵簿當用玉輅、金輅、象輅、革輅、木輅、耕根車、明遠車、指南車、記裏鼓車、崇德車、皮軒車、進賢車、黃鉞車、白鷺車、鸞旗車、豹尾車、軺車、羊車各一，革車五，屬車十二。 除見有車輅外，闕象、木、革輅、耕根、明遠、皮軒、進賢、白鷺、羊車，大輦各一，革車三，屬車四。
In the eleventh year of Dading [1171], as preparations began for a southern suburban sacrifice, the Directorate of Ceremonial ordered the Office of Imperial Sacrifices to consult the Song ritual for that ceremony. The guard of honor was to include one each of the jade, golden, elephant, leather, and wooden state carriages, along with the plough-root, bright-distance, south-pointing, mile-recording drum, exalting-virtue, tiger-skin, advancing-worthies, yellow battle-axe, white egret, luan-banner, leopard-tail, light, and sheep carriages, five leather war-chariots, and twelve attendant carriages. Beyond the carriages already available, the court still lacked one each of the elephant, wooden, and leather state carriages, the plough-root, bright-distance, tiger-skin, advancing-worthies, white egret, and sheep carriages, and the great palanquin, as well as three leather war-chariots and four attendant carriages.
5
按《五禮新儀》，玉輅以青，金輅以緋，象輅以銀褐，革輅以黃，木輅以皁，蓋其物有合隨輅之色者，有當用別色者，如玉輅用青絲繡雲龍絡帶，青羅繡寶相花帶，青畫輪轅，青氂牛尾，此隨輅之色者也。 若象、木、革輅則當用緋、用銀褐、用黃及皁。 若至尊乘禦步武所及，非若餘物但為美觀，其踏床、倚背、踏道之褥皆用紅錦，座褥、及行馬褥、透壁軟簾三，用銀褐、黃、青羅錦三色。 又大輦，宋陶穀創意為之，至祥符中以其太重，減七百餘斤，可見當時亦無定制，各以意從長斟酌造之。 其制，金玉輅闕，可見者象輅、革輅、木輅，耕根、皮軒、進賢、明遠、白鷺、羊車、革車、大輦，凡十有一：
According to the New Rituals of the Five Ceremonies, the jade carriage was green, the golden carriage scarlet, the elephant carriage silver-brown, the leather carriage yellow, and the wooden carriage black. Some fittings matched the carriage's color; others required a different hue. The elephant, wooden, and leather carriages were to use scarlet, silver-brown, yellow, and black respectively. Where the sovereign himself trod the ground his carriage reached—unlike mere display pieces—the foot-rest, back-rest, and footway cushions were all of red brocade, while seat cushions, traveling-horse cushions, and three sheer hanging curtains used silver-brown, yellow, and green brocade. The great palanquin, moreover, was a Song invention of Tao Gu's; by the Xiangfu reign its weight had been cut by more than seven hundred jin, which shows that even then there was no fixed standard and each was built as convenience dictated. Of the full set, the jade and golden carriages were missing; those on record were the elephant, leather, and wooden carriages, the plough-root, tiger-skin, advancing-worthies, bright-distance, white egret, and sheep carriages, leather war-chariots, and great palanquin—eleven types in all:
6
象輅，黃質，金塗銅裝，以象飾諸末。 輪衣以銀褐。 建大赤。 餘同玉輅。
Elephant carriage: a yellow body with gilt-bronze fittings, elephant ornamentation at the extremities. Wheel covers of silver-brown. It bore a great scarlet banner. All else matched the jade carriage.
7
革輅，黃質，鞔之以革，金塗銅裝，輪衣以黃，建大白。 餘同玉輅。
Leather carriage: yellow body covered in leather with gilt-bronze fittings, yellow wheel covers, and a great white banner. All else matched the jade carriage.
8
木輅，黑質，漆之，輪衣以皁，建大麾。 餘同玉輅。
Wooden carriage: black lacquered body, black wheel covers, and a great command banner. All else matched the jade carriage.
9
耕根車，青質，蓋三重，制如玉輅而無玉飾。
Plough-root carriage: green body with a triple canopy, built like the jade carriage but without jade ornamentation.
10
皮軒車，赤質，上有漆柱，貫五輪相重，畫虎紋，一轅。
Tiger-skin carriage: red body with lacquered pillars above, five wheels stacked in succession and painted with tiger stripes, one shaft.
11
進賢車，赤質，如革車，緋輪衣、絡帶、門簾並繡鳳。 上設硃漆床、香案，紫綾衣。 一轅。
Advancing-worthies carriage: red body like the leather war-chariot, with scarlet wheel covers, belt bands, and door curtains all embroidered with phoenixes. It carried a vermilion-lacquered couch and incense table with purple damask covers. One shaft.
12
明遠車，制如屋，銳頂，重簷，勾欄。 頂上有金龍，四角垂鐸。 上層四面垂簾，下層周以花板。 三轅。
Bright-distance carriage: built like a house with a pointed roof, double eaves, and balustrades. A gilt dragon crowned the roof; bells hung from the four corners. The upper story had curtains on all four sides; the lower was ringed with patterned panels. Three shafts.
13
白鷺車，赤質，周施花板，上有漆柱，柱杪刻為鷺鷥，銜鵝毛筒，紅綬帶。 柱貫五輪相重。 輪衣、皁頂、緋裙、緋絡帶，並繡飛鷺。 一轅。
White egret carriage: red body ringed with patterned panels, lacquered pillars above carved at the tips as egrets holding goose-feather tubes bound with red silk cords. The pillars passed through five wheels stacked in succession. Wheel covers, black canopy top, scarlet skirt, and scarlet belt bands were all embroidered with flying egrets. One shaft.
14
羊車，赤質，兩壁油畫龜紋，金鳳翅，幰衣、結帶並繡瑞羊。 二轅。
Sheep carriage: red body with both side panels oil-painted with tortoise patterns, gilt phoenix wings, and canopy cover and knotted bands embroidered with auspicious sheep. Two shafts.
15
大輦，赤質，正方，油畫，金塗銀葉龍鳳裝。 其上四面施行龍、雲朵、火珠，方鑒、銀絲囊網，珠翠結雲龍，鈿窠霞子。 四角龍頭銜香囊。 頂輪施耀葉，中有銀蓮花，坐龍。 紅綾裏，碧牙壓帖。 內設圓鑒、香囊，銀飾勾欄台坐，紫絲條網帉錔。 中施黃褥，上置御座、曲幾，香爐、錦結綬。 幾衣、輪衣、絡帶並緋繡雲龍寶相花，金線壓。 長竿四，飾以金塗銀龍頭。 畫梯、托叉、行馬。
Great palanquin: red square body, oil-painted, with gilt silver-leaf dragon and phoenix fittings. Above on all four sides were traveling dragons, cloud clusters, fire pearls, square mirrors, silver-thread net pouches, pearl-and-jade knotted cloud-dragons, and inlaid rosettes. Dragon heads at the four corners held incense pouches. Radiant leaves adorned the crown wheel; within stood a silver lotus bearing a seated dragon. The lining was red damask with green ivory pressure strips. Inside were a round mirror and incense pouch, a silver-fitted balustrade platform seat, and purple silk net fringe clasps. A yellow cushion was laid within, bearing the imperial seat and curved armrest, an incense burner, and brocade knotted cords. Armrest cover, wheel cover, and belt bands were all scarlet-embroidered with cloud-dragons and treasure-floral patterns pressed in gold thread. Four long poles ornamented with gilt silver dragon heads. Painted ladder, carrying forks, and traveling horses.
16
七寶輦，制如大輦，飾以玉裙網，七寶，滴子用真珠。 宋欽宗為上皇制，海陵自汴取而用之。
Seven-treasure palanquin: built like the great palanquin and ornamented with jade skirt nets and the seven treasures; its drip beads were of genuine pearl. Emperor Qinzong of the Song had it made for the Retired Emperor; Prince Hailing took it from Bian and put it to use.
17
皇后之車六。
The empress had six carriages.
18
一曰重翟車，青質，金飾金塗銅鈒花葉段裝釘，燿葉二十四，明金立鳳一，紫羅銷金生色寶相帷一，青羅、青油幰衣各一，硃絲絡網、紫羅明金生色雲龍絡帶各二，兩廂明金五彩間裝翟羽二，金塗鍮石長轅鳳頭三，橫轅立鸞八，香爐香寶子一副，宜男錦帶結，硃紅漆杌子、踏床各一，扶板扶魚一副，紅羅明金衣褥，紅羅襯褥一，青羅行道褥四，青羅明金生色雲鳳夾幔一，紅羅明金緣紅竹簾二，金塗銅葉段行馬二，硃紅漆金塗銀葉裝釘胡梯一，青羅胡梯尋儀褥二，踏道褥十，青絹裹大麻索二，油蒙帕一。 二曰厭翟車，赤質，倒仙錦帷一，紫羅、紫油幰衣各一，硃絲絡網，宜男錦絡帶各二，余同重翟，惟行道褥、夾幔、尋儀褥羅及裹索等用紅。 三曰翟車，黃質，金飾鍮石葉段裝釘，宜男錦帷，黃羅油幰衣，鍮石長轅鳳頭三，而無橫轅立鸞，余同厭翟，而羅色用黃。 四曰安車，赤質，倒仙錦帷，紫、油幰衣，硃絲絡網，天下樂錦絡帶，鍮石長轅鳳頭三，無橫轅立鸞及香爐香寶子，余同翟車，而色皆用紅。 五曰四望車，硃質，宜男錦帷，青、油幰衣，轅端螭頭二，余並同安車。 六曰金根車，硃質，紫羅、紫油幰衣，硃絲絡網、倒仙錦絡帶各二，踏床衣褥用紅綾，尋儀褥、踏道褥並用綾，余並同安車。
First, the Heavy-Pheasant carriage: green body with gold ornament and gilt-bronze chased floral fittings, twenty-four radiant leaves, one standing gilt phoenix, purple brocade polychrome treasure-floral curtains, green brocade and green oil canopy covers, vermilion silk nets and purple brocade polychrome cloud-dragon belt bands, polychrome gold pheasant-feather side panels, gilt pewter long-shaft phoenix heads, eight standing pheasants on the cross-shaft, incense burner and treasure, propitious-male brocade knots, vermilion-lacquered stool and foot-rest, hand boards and hand fish, red brocade polychrome cushions and linings, green brocade traveling and side curtains, red bamboo curtains with gold edges, gilt-bronze traveling horses, foreign ladder and attendant cushions, footway cushions, hemp ropes in green silk, and oil-cloth wrapping—each in the quantities prescribed. Second, the Averted-Pheasant carriage: red body with an inverted-immortal brocade curtain, purple brocade and purple oil canopy covers, and vermilion silk nets and propitious-male brocade belt bands; otherwise as the Heavy-Pheasant, but traveling cushions, side curtains, attendant cushions, and wrapping ropes were red. Third, the Pheasant carriage: yellow body with gold and pewter fittings, propitious-male brocade curtain, yellow brocade oil canopy cover, three pewter long-shaft phoenix heads but no cross-shaft pheasants; otherwise as the Averted-Pheasant, in yellow. Fourth, the Peace carriage: red body with inverted-immortal brocade curtain, purple and oil canopy covers, vermilion silk net, All-under-Heaven-Rejoices brocade belt bands, three pewter phoenix heads, but no cross-shaft pheasants or incense fittings; otherwise as the Pheasant carriage, all in red. Fifth, the Four-Outlook carriage: vermilion body with propitious-male brocade curtain, green and oil canopy covers, two dragon heads at the shaft ends; otherwise as the Peace carriage. Sixth, the Golden-Root carriage: vermilion body with purple brocade and purple oil canopy covers, vermilion silk nets and inverted-immortal brocade belt bands; foot-rest cushions in red damask, attendant and footway cushions in damask; otherwise as the Peace carriage.
19
造六車成後，複改造圓輅、重簷，方輅、五華、亭頭、平頭六等之制，又增制九龍車一，高二丈、廣一丈一尺、長二丈六尺。 五鳳車四，各高一丈八尺，長廣如之。 圓輅車一、方輅車一、重簷車一，各高一丈七尺，長一丈八尺，廣八尺。 皆駕馬四，駕士各五十人，並平巾幘、生色青緋黃三色寶相花衫、銀褐抹帶、大口袴。 平頭輦一、五華輦一、亭頭輦一，各高一丈九尺，廣丈五寸，長三丈。 舁士各九十六人作兩番代，並生色緋寶相花衫，餘如前制。 管押人員三十五人，長腳襆頭、紫羅窄衫、金銅帶束。 駕馬繁纓、涼屜、鈴拂、包尾皆從車色，金銅面，插翟尾，硃轡，硃總。 龍車合用紅羅傘一，傘子二人用本服錦帽襆帶。 又檢定扇、障等制。 偏扇如仙人羽扇。 行障六扇，各長八尺、高六尺，用紅羅表、硃裏，畫雲鳳，龍首竿銜鞶結，每障用宮人四。 坐障三扇，各長七尺、高五尺，畫雲鳳，紅羅表、硃裏，余同行障。 錦六柱八扇，各闊二尺、高三尺，冒以錦，內給使八人執。 宮人車制如屬車，駕士八人，平巾幘、緋衫、大口袴、鞋襪、供奉宮人三十人，雲腳紗帽、紫衫束帶，綠靴。 明昌元年三月，定妃嬪車輦同鍍金鳳頭、黃結。 禦妻、世婦用間金鳳頭、梅紅結子。
Once the six carriages were finished, the court revised the round, double-eaved, square, five-flower, pavilion-top, and level-top types and added one Nine-Dragons carriage, two zhang high, one zhang one chi wide, and two zhang six chi long. Four Five-Phoenix carriages, each one zhang eight chi high with matching length and width. One round carriage, one square carriage, and one double-eaved carriage, each one zhang seven chi high, one zhang eight chi long, and eight chi wide. Each was drawn by four horses with fifty grooms apiece, in plain headcloths, polychrome green, scarlet, and yellow treasure-floral shirts, silver-brown waist bands, and loose trousers. One level-top, one five-flower, and one pavilion-top palanquin, each one zhang nine chi high, one zhang five cun wide, and three zhang long. Ninety-six bearers served in two relays, all in polychrome scarlet treasure-floral shirts; other fittings followed the earlier specifications. Thirty-five supervising officers wore long-foot headwraps, narrow purple brocade shirts, and gilt-copper belts. Harness plumes, cool saddles, bells, whiskers, and tail wraps matched each carriage's color, with gilt-copper cheekpieces, inserted pheasant-tail plumes, and vermilion bridles and browbands. The dragon carriage required one red brocade umbrella; its two bearers wore their service brocade caps and wrapped belts. Regulations for fans, screens, and related items were also verified. Side fans resembled immortal feather fans. Traveling screens had six panels, each eight chi long and six chi high, red brocade outside and vermilion within, painted with cloud-phoenixes on dragon-head poles with belt knots; four palace women attended each screen. Seated screens had three panels, each seven chi long and five chi high, painted with cloud-phoenixes in red brocade and vermilion lining, otherwise as the traveling screens. Brocade six-pillar eight-fan sets were two chi wide and three chi high, brocade-covered, and carried by eight inner attendants. Palace women's carriages followed attendant-carriage regulations: eight grooms in plain headcloths, scarlet shirts, loose trousers, and shoes; thirty attending palace women in cloud-heel gauze caps, purple belted shirts, and green boots. In the third month of the first year of Mingchang [1190], consorts' palanquins were standardized to gilt phoenix heads and yellow knots. Imperial wives and court ladies used mixed-gold phoenix heads and plum-red knots.
20
皇太子車制。
Regulations for the Crown Prince's Carriage
21
大定六年十二月，奏皇太子金輅典故制度，及上用金輅儀式，奉敕詳定。 輈、旗、旂首及應用龍者更以麟為飾，省去障塵等物。 上用金輅名件色數，依上公以九為節，減四分之一。 上用輅，軾前有金龍改為伏鹿，軾上坐龍改為鳳，旂十二旒減為九，駕赤騮六減為四，及簾褥用黃羅處改用梅紅，余並具體成造。 其制，赤質，金飾諸末，重較。 箱畫虞文鳥獸，黃屋。 軾作赤伏鹿，龍輈。 金鳳一，在軾前。 設障塵。 硃蓋黃裏。 輪畫硃牙。 左建九旒，右載闟戟。 旂首銜金龍頭，結綏及鈴緌。 八鸞在衡，二鈴在軾。 駕赤騮四，金勣釳方，插翟尾，鏤錫鞶，纓九就。 皇帝輅自頂至地高一丈七尺，今閷四分之一為一丈三尺二寸，修廣之閷亦如之。
In the twelfth month of the sixth year of Dading [1166], officials memorialized on precedents for the crown prince's golden carriage and on the emperor's golden-carriage ceremony; the throne ordered a detailed determination. Shafts, banners, banner heads, and all dragon motifs were to use unicorn ornament instead; dust screens and similar items were to be omitted. The crown prince's golden carriage was to follow the upper duke's standard of nine as the measure, reduced by one quarter. On the imperial model, the golden dragon before the railing became a crouching deer, the seated railing dragon a phoenix, twelve banner tassels became nine, six scarlet bays four; yellow brocade curtains and cushions became plum-red; all else was to be built to full specification. Specifications: red body, gold ornamentation at the extremities, double curved side rails. The carriage box painted with Yu-pattern birds and beasts, with a yellow canopy. The railing bore a scarlet crouching deer, with dragon shafts. One gilt phoenix before the railing. A dust screen was fitted. Vermilion canopy with yellow lining. Wheels painted with vermilion spokes. Nine tassels were raised on the left; the halberd of authority was mounted on the right. The banner head bore a gilt dragon head with knotted cords and bell tassels. Eight luan bells on the crossbar, two on the railing. Drawn by four scarlet bays with gilt patterned plaques, inserted pheasant-tail plumes, carved tin bridles, and nine-part throat tassels. The emperor's carriage stood one zhang seven chi from crown to ground; one quarter was cut away, yielding one zhang three chi two cun, with length and width reduced proportionally.
22
王公以下車制。
Carriage Regulations for Princes, Dukes, and Those of Lower Rank
23
一品，轅用銀螭頭，涼棚杆子、月板並許以銀裝飾。 三品以上，螭頭不得施銀，涼棚杆子、月板亦聽用銀為飾。 五品以上，轅獅頭。 六品以下，轅雲頭。 庶人坐車平頭，止用一色黑油。 親王鞍，塗金銀裹，仍鈒以開花。 障泥用紫羅，飾以錦。 轡以塗金銀裝，束用絲結。 皇家小功以上、太皇太后皇太后大功以上、皇后期親以上、並一品官、及官職俱至三品以上者，障泥許用金花。 若經賜或禦球場內，不在禁限。 舊制，親王、宰執任外者，與大興尹，皆服小帽、束帶、銀鞍、絲鞭。 大定中，世宗以京尹亦外官三品，而與親王無別，遂命不得禦銀鞍、絲鞭，惟同外三品例，襆頭、帶、展皁視事。 承安二年，制護衛銅裝鞍轡不得借人。 庶人馬鞍許用黑漆，以骨、角、鐵為飾，不得用玉較具及金、銀、犀、象飾鞍轡。
First rank: shafts might use silver dragon heads; cool-awning poles and moon boards might all be ornamented in silver. Third rank and above: dragon heads might not be silvered, but cool-awning poles and moon boards might still use silver ornament. Fifth rank and above: lion heads on the shafts. Sixth rank and below: cloud heads on the shafts. Commoners' riding carriages had level tops and used only black oil in a single color. Princes' saddles were coated and wrapped in gilt silver and chased with openwork floral patterns. Mud-guards were of purple brocade ornamented with brocade. Bridles were wrapped in gilt silver and bound with silk knots. Members of the imperial clan from lesser merit mourning upward, the Grand and Regular Empress Dowagers from greater merit mourning upward, the empress from close kin upward, and first-rank officials—or those whose offices all reached third rank and above—might use gold floral patterns on mud-guards. Items bestowed by imperial grant or used within the imperial ball ground were exempt from these restrictions. Formerly, princes and chief ministers posted outside the capital, along with the Daxing magistrate, all wore small caps, belt bindings, silver saddles, and silk whips. During Dading, Emperor Shizong ruled that the capital magistrate, though a third-rank outside post, should not share princely privileges; he was barred from silver saddles and silk whips and followed the outside-third-rank norm of headwrap, belt, and black boots for official business. In the second year of Cheng'an [1197], guard-service copper-fitted saddles and bridles were forbidden to be lent out. Commoners' saddles might use black lacquer with bone, horn, or iron ornament, but not jade cheekpieces or gold, silver, rhinoceros, or ivory fittings.
24
輿服中
Carriages and Clothing, Part Two
25
天子袞冕
The Emperor's Robe and Crown
26
昔者聖人制為玄黃黼黻之服，以象天地之德，以章貴賤之儀，夏、商損益，至周大備，不可以有加矣。 自秦滅棄禮法，先王之制靡敝不存，漢初猶服袀玄以從大祀，歷代雖漸復古，終亦不純而已。 金制皇帝服通天、絳紗、兗冕、逼，即前代之遺制也。 其臣有貂蟬法服，即所謂朝服者。 章宗時，禮官請參酌漢、唐，更制祭服，青衣硃裳，去貂蟬豎筆，以別於朝服。 惟公朝則又有紫、緋、綠三等之服，與夫窄紫、展皁等事，悉著於篇雲。
In antiquity the sages devised garments in black, yellow, and fu-and-fu patterns to symbolize the virtues of Heaven and Earth and to mark noble and base rank. Xia and Shang altered them; by Zhou the system was complete and could not be improved upon. When Qin abolished ritual law, the institutions of former kings were largely lost. Early Han still wore dark garments for major sacrifices; later dynasties gradually restored antiquity, yet never fully recovered the original purity. Jin imperial dress included the penetration-heaven cap, scarlet gauze robe, Yan crown, and Bi cap—forms inherited from earlier dynasties. Ministers wore sable-tail ceremonial dress—the so-called court dress. Under Emperor Zhangzong, ritual officials proposed following Han and Tang to redesign sacrificial dress as green upper garment and vermilion skirt, omitting sable tail and upright brush to distinguish it from court dress. For routine audiences there were also purple, scarlet, and green grades of dress, along with narrow purple and spread-black boots—all recorded in this chapter.
27
天眷三年，有司以車駕將幸燕京，合用通天冠、絳紗袍，據見闕名件，依式成造。 禮服，袍、裳、方心曲領、中單、蔽膝、革帶、大帶、玉具劍、綬、佩、褵、襪。 乘輿服，大綬六采，黑、黃、赤、白、縹、綠、小綬三色，同大綬，間施三玉環，大綬五百首，小綬半之。 白玉雙佩、革帶、玉鉤㫤。
In the third year of Tianjuan [1140], as the court prepared for the imperial visit to Yanjing, officials supplied the penetration-heaven cap and scarlet gauze robe, manufacturing missing pieces to specification. Ceremonial dress comprised robe, skirt, square-heart curved collar, inner garment, knee cover, leather belt, great belt, jade-fitted sword, cord, pendant, shoes, and socks. Imperial cords included a great six-color cord of black, yellow, scarlet, white, light blue, and green, and a three-color small cord matching it with three jade rings between; the great cord had five hundred tassels, the small cord half as many. White jade double pendant, leather belt, and jade belt hook.
28
冕制。 天板長一尺六寸，廣八寸，前高八寸五分，後高九寸五分，身圍一尺八寸三分，並納言，並用青羅為表，紅羅為裏，周回用金棱。 天板下有四柱，四面珍珠網結子，花素墜子，前後珠旒共二十四，旒各長一尺二寸。 青碧線織造天河帶一，長一丈二尺，闊二寸，兩頭各有真珠金碧旒三節，玉滴子節花。 紅線組帶二，上有真珠金翠旒，玉滴子節花，下有金鐸子二。 梅紅線款幔帶一。 黈纊二，真珠垂系，上用金萼子二。 簪窠，款幔、組帶鈿窠，各二，內組帶鈿窠四並玉鏤塵碾造。 玉簪一，頂方二寸，導長一尺二寸，簪頂刻鏤塵雲龍。
Specifications for the Crown The heaven board measured one chi six cun long and eight cun wide, eight cun five fen high in front and nine cun five fen behind, with a body circumference of one chi eight cun three fen, including the speech-flap; green brocade outside, red within, gilt edges all around. Four pillars below the heaven board bore pearl nets on all sides with plain pendants; twenty-four pearl tassels front and rear, each one chi two cun long. A Milky Way band woven in green jade thread, one zhang two chi by two cun, with three sections of pearl and gilt jade-green tassels and jade drip beads at each end. Two red assembly bands bore pearl and gold-jade tassels with jade drip beads and two gilt bell pendants below. One plum-red cord patterned hanging band. Two yellow ramie ear fillers with pearl hanging cords and two gilt calyx mounts above. Hairpin sockets and rosettes for patterned hanging and assembly bands, two each; four inner assembly rosettes, all of jade openwork dust-grind work. One jade hairpin with a two-cun square top, a one-chi-two-cun guide, and openwork dust-cloud dragons carved on the crown.
29
袞，用青羅夾制，五彩間金繪畫，正面日一、月一、升龍四、山十二，上下襟華蟲、火各六對，虎、蜼各六對。 背面星一，升龍四、山十二，華蟲、火各二十對，虎、蜼各六對。 中單一，白羅單制，羅領、褾、襈。 裳一，帶、褾襈，紅羅八幅夾制，繡藻三十二，粉十六、米十六、黼三十二、黻三十二。 蔽膝一，帶、褾、襈，並紅羅夾制，繡升龍二。 綬一副：大綬以赤黃黑白綠縹六彩織，紅羅托裏，小綬三色，同大綬，銷金黃羅綬頭，上間施三玉環，皆刻雲龍，大綬五百首，小綬半之。 緋白大帶一，銷金黃羅帶頭，鈿窠二十四。 紅羅勒帛一，青羅抹帶一。 玉佩二，白玉上中下璜各一，半月各二，皆刻雲龍，玉滴子各二，皆以紅真珠穿制。 金篦鉤、獸面、水葉、環、釘。 涼帶一，紅羅裹，縷金，上有玉鵝七，䤩尾束各一，金攀龍口，以玳瑁板襯釘腳。 褵，重底、紅羅面，白綾托裏，如意頭，銷金黃羅緣口，玉鼻仁飾以珠。 襪用緋羅加綿。 凡大祭祀、加尊號、受冊寶，則服袞冕。 行幸、齋戒出宮或禦正殿，則通天冠、絳紗袍。
The robe was lined green brocade with polychrome gold painting: front with one sun, one moon, four ascending dragons, and twelve mountains; upper and lower flaps with six pairs each of floral creatures and fire, and six pairs each of tigers and fu-beasts. The back bore one star, four ascending dragons, twelve mountains, twenty pairs each of floral creatures and fire, and six pairs each of tigers and fu-beasts. One inner garment of single-layer white gauze with gauze collar, border, and lapel. One skirt with belt, border, and lapel: eight-panel lined red brocade embroidered with thirty-two algae, sixteen powder-grain, sixteen rice-grain, thirty-two fu, and thirty-two fu-corner motifs. One knee cover with belt, border, and lapel in lined red brocade embroidered with two ascending dragons. One cord set: a great six-color cord of scarlet, yellow, black, white, green, and light blue with red brocade backing; a three-color small cord matching it; gold-cut yellow brocade head with three cloud-dragon jade rings; five hundred great-cord tassels and half as many on the small cord. One scarlet-white great belt with gold-cut yellow brocade head and twenty-four rosettes. One red brocade waist band and one green brocade sash. Two jade pendants, each with upper, middle, and lower white jade huang plaques and two half-moons, all carved with cloud-dragons and two jade drip beads, strung on red genuine pearls. Gilt comb hooks, beast faces, water leaves, rings, and nails. One cool belt wrapped in red brocade with gold thread, seven jade geese above, tin tail bindings, gilt climbing-dragon mouth, and tortoiseshell backing plates for the nail feet. Shoes with double soles, red brocade uppers, white damask lining, ruyi toes, gold-cut yellow brocade mouth edges, and pearl-set jade nose ornaments. Socks were scarlet gauze with cotton padding. The robe and crown were worn for great sacrifices, investiture with honorific titles, and reception of registers and seals. For imperial progresses, fast-day departures from the palace, or audiences in the main hall, the penetration-heaven cap and scarlet gauze robe.
30
鎮圭，大圭。 皇統九年十月二十四日，禮部下太常，畫鎮圭式樣，大禮使據《三禮圖》以進，用之。 大定十一年，太常寺按《禮》「大圭長三尺，抒上終葵首，天子服之」。 自西魏、隋、唐以來，大圭長尺二寸，與鎮圭同。 蓋鎮圭以鎮天下，以四鎮山為飾，今其圭已依古制，惟無大圭。 今禦府有故宋白玉圭，圓，無上閷及終葵首。 自西魏以來，所制玉笏皆長尺有二寸，方而不折，雖非先王之法，蓋後世玉難得，隨宜故也。 擬合以禦府所藏，行禮就用。
Stabilizing Jade Tablet; Great Jade Tablet On the twenty-fourth day of the tenth month, ninth year of Huangtong [1149], the Directorate ordered the Office of Imperial Sacrifices to draft the stabilizing-tablet pattern; the Grand Ritual Commissioner submitted it per the Illustrations of the Three Rites, and it was adopted. In the eleventh year of Dading [1171], the Office cited the Rites: 'The great tablet is three chi long, narrow above with zhongkui head; the Son of Heaven wears it.' From Western Wei through Sui and Tang, the great tablet was one chi two cun—the same length as the stabilizing tablet. The stabilizing tablet symbolized stabilizing the realm and was ornamented with the four stabilizing mountains; that tablet already followed antiquity, but no great tablet existed. The imperial storehouse held an old Song white jade tablet, round, without upper narrowing or zhongkui head. From Western Wei onward, jade tablets were made one chi two cun long and square without bend; though not the ancient standard, later ages adapted because fine jade was scarce. Officials proposed using the storehouse piece when the rite was performed.
31
視朝之服
Dress for Attending Court
32
初，太宗即位，始服赭黃，自後視百官朝禦袍帶。 章宗即位，以世宗之喪，有司請禦純吉，不從，乃服淡黃袍、烏犀帶。 常朝則服小帽、紅襴、偏帶或束帶。
When Emperor Taizong first took the throne, he adopted ochre-yellow and thereafter received officials in court robe and belt. At Emperor Zhangzong's accession, during mourning for Emperor Shizong, officials requested pure auspicious dress; he refused and wore a pale yellow robe with rhinoceros belt. For routine audiences he wore a small cap, red lan robe, and side belt or bound belt.
33
皇后冠服
Empress Crown and Dress
34
花株冠，用盛子一，青羅表、青絹襯金紅羅托裏，用九龍、四鳳，前面大龍銜穗球一朵，前後有花株各十有二，及鸂鶒、孔雀、雲鶴、王母仙人隊、浮動插瓣等，後有納言，上有金蟬鑻金兩博鬢，以上並用鋪翠滴粉縷金裝珍珠結制，下有金圈口，上用七鈿窠，後有金鈿窠二，穿紅羅鋪金款幔帶一。 禕衣，深青羅織成翬翟之形，素質，十二等，領、褾、襈並紅羅織成雲龍，中單以素青紗制，領織成黼形霰十二，褾、袖襈、織成雲龍，並織紅縠造。 裳，八副，深青羅織成翟文六等，褾、襈織成紅羅雲龍，明金帶腰。 蔽膝，深青羅織成翟文三等，領緣，緅色羅織成雲龍，明金帶大綬一，長五尺，闊一尺，黃赤白黑縹綠六彩織成，小綬三色同大綬，間七寶鈿窠，施三玉環。 上碾雲龍，拈金線織成大小綬頭，紅羅花襯，大帶，青羅硃裏，紕其外，上以硃錦，下以綠錦，紐約用青組，拈金線織成帶頭。 玉佩二朵，每朵上中下璜各一，半月墜子各二，並玉碾，縷金打鈒獸面、篦鉤佩子各一，水葉子真珠穿綴。 青衣革帶，用縷金青羅裹造，上用金打鈒水地龍，鵝眼䤩尾，龍口攀束子共八事，以玳瑁襯金釘腳。 抹帶二，紅羅、青羅各一，並明金造，各長一丈五寸。 褵以青羅制，白綾裏，如意頭，明金、黃羅准上用，玉鼻仁真珠裝，綴系帶。 襪，青羅表裏，綴系帶。 犀冠，減撥花樣，縷金裝造，上有玉簪一，下有玳瑁盤一。
Flower-cluster crown: one shengzi base with green brocade and silk lining on gold-red brocade, bearing nine dragons and four phoenixes; a front great dragon holding a tassel ball; twelve flower clusters front and rear, with mandarin ducks, peacocks, cloud cranes, Queen Mother processions, and floating petals; speech-flap behind; gilt cicada and double temple locks with kingfisher, powdered gold, and pearls; gilt rim with seven rosettes above and two behind, threaded through a red brocade spread-gold patterned hanging band. Yi robe: deep green brocade woven with pheasant forms on a plain twelve-grade body; collar, border, and lapel in red brocade cloud-dragons; inner garment of plain green gauze with collar hail patterns in fu form, borders and sleeves in red damask cloud-dragons. Skirt of eight panels in deep green brocade with six-grade pheasant patterns; borders and lapels in red brocade cloud-dragons; bright-gold waist belt. Knee cover in three-grade deep green brocade pheasant patterns with russet cloud-dragon collar edge; bright-gold great cord five chi by one chi in six colors; matching three-color small cord with seven-treasure rosettes and three jade rings. Cloud-dragons ground above; gold-thread woven cord heads; red brocade floral lining; great belt of green brocade with vermilion lining, vermilion brocade above and green below, green cord fasteners with gold-thread woven heads. Two jade pendants, each with upper, middle, and lower huang and two half-moons, jade-ground with gold-thread beast faces, comb hooks, and pearl-strung water leaves. Green leather belt wrapped in gold-thread green brocade with chased water-ground dragons, goose-eye tin tails, dragon-mouth bindings—eight items—with tortoiseshell-backed gilt nail feet. Two sashes, red and green brocade, bright-gold work, each one zhang five cun long. Shoes of green brocade with white damask lining, ruyi toes, bright gold and yellow brocade trim, pearl-set jade nose ornaments, and fastening bands. Socks of green brocade inside and out with fastening bands. Rhinoceros crown with reduced spread-flower pattern in gold thread, jade hairpin above and tortoiseshell disk below.
35
皇太子冠服
Crown Prince Crown and Dress
36
冕用白珠九旒，紅絲組為纓，青纊充耳，犀簪導。 袞，青衣硃裳，五章在衣，山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彝，四章在裳，藻、粉米、黼、黻。 白紗中單，青褾襈裾。 革帶，塗金銀鉤㫤。 蔽膝，隨裳色，為火、山二章。 瑜玉雙佩，四采織成大綬，間施玉環三。 白襪，硃褵，褵加金塗銀釦。 謁廟則服之。 遠遊冠，十八梁，金塗銀花，飾博山附蟬，紅絲組為纓，犀簪導。 硃明服，紅裳，白紗中單，方心曲領。 絳紗蔽膝，白襪黑褵。 餘同袞冕。 冊寶則服之。 桓圭，長九寸、廣三寸、厚半寸、用白玉，若屋之桓楹，為二棱。 太子入朝起居及與宴，則朝服，紫袍、玉帶、雙魚袋。 其視事及見師少賓客，則服小帽、皁衫、玉束帶。
The crown bore nine white-pearl tassels, red silk chin straps, green ramie ear fillers, and a rhinoceros hairpin guide. Robe of green upper garment and vermilion skirt: five emblems on the garment (mountains, dragons, floral creatures, fire, ancestral vessels) and four on the skirt (algae, powder-grain, fu, fu-corner). White gauze inner garment with green border, lapel, and hem. Leather belt with gilt silver hook. Knee cover matching the skirt, bearing fire and mountain emblems. Fine jade double pendant and great four-color cord with three jade rings between. White socks and vermilion shoes with added gilt silver clasps. Worn when visiting temples. Far-travel cap of eighteen beams with gilt silver flowers, Mount Bo and cicada ornaments, red silk chin strap, and rhinoceros guide. Vermilion-bright dress: scarlet skirt, white gauze inner garment, square-heart curved collar. Scarlet gauze knee cover with white socks and black shoes. All else matched the robe and crown. Worn for registers and seals. Pillar tablet of white jade, nine cun long, three cun wide, half a cun thick, ridged like a hall pillar. For court attendance and banquets the crown prince wore court dress: purple robe, jade belt, and double-fish pouch. For official business or receiving teachers and junior guests, he wore a small cap, black robe, and jade bound belt.
37
宗室及外戚並一品命婦
Imperial Clan, Maternal Kin, and First-Rank Titled Ladies
38
衣服聽用明金，期親雖別籍、女子出嫁並同。 又五品以上官母、妻，許披霞帔。 唯首飾、霞帔、領袖、腰帶，許用明金、籠金、間金之類。 其衣服止用明銀、象金及金條壓繡。 正班局分承應帶官人，雖未出職系班，其祖母及母、妻、子孫之婦、同籍兄弟之妻、及在室女、孫、姊妹並同。 又禁私家用純黃帳幕陳設，若曾經宣賜鸞輿服禦，日月雲肩、龍文黃服、五個鞘眼之鞍皆須更改。
They might use bright gold on clothing; close kin remained eligible even if registered separately or if daughters had married out. Mothers and wives of officials fifth rank and above might also wear cloud-collar capes. Bright gold, caged gold, and mixed gold were permitted only on head ornaments, cloud-collar capes, collars, sleeves, and waist belts. On clothing itself only bright silver, imitation gold, and gold-thread pressed embroidery were allowed. The same applied to grandmothers, mothers, wives, sons' wives, brothers' wives under the same register, unmarried daughters, granddaughters, and sisters of regular-rank bureau attendants with official belts, even before substantive appointment. Private households were forbidden pure yellow curtains and furnishings; any imperial bestowal of luan-carriage dress, sun-moon cloud-shoulder robes, dragon yellow dress, or five-sheath-eye saddles had to be altered.
39
臣下朝服
Ministers' Court Dress
40
凡導駕及行大禮，文武百官皆服之。 正一品：貂蟬籠巾，七梁額花冠，貂鼠立筆，銀立筆，犀簪導，佩劍，緋羅大袖、緋羅裙、緋羅蔽膝各一，緋白羅大帶，天下樂暈錦玉環綬一，白羅方心曲領、白紗中單、銀褐勒帛各一，玉珠佩二，金塗銀革帶，烏皮履，白綾襪。 正二品：七梁冠，銀立筆，犀簪導，不佩劍，緋羅大袖，雜花暈錦玉環綬，餘並同。 正四品：五梁冠，銀立筆，犀簪，白獅錦銀環綬，珠佩，銀革帶，禦史中丞則獬豸冠、青荷蓮綬，餘並同。 正五品：四梁冠，簇四金雕錦銅環綬，銀珠佩，餘並同。 正六品至七品：三梁冠，黃獅錦銅環綬，銅珠佩，銅束帶，餘並同。 大定二十二年祫享，攝官、導駕二品冠七梁，三品四品冠六梁，服有金花，五品冠五梁，六品冠四梁，七品冠三梁，監察禦史獬豸冠、青綬，八品九品冠二梁，餘制並同。 三品舊無。
All civil and military officials wore it when guiding the imperial carriage or performing great ceremonies. Positive first rank: sable-tail caged headwrap, seven-beam forehead-flower crown, sable and silver upright brushes, rhinoceros guide, sword, scarlet gauze great sleeve, skirt, and knee cover, scarlet-white great belt, All-under-Heaven-Rejoices halo brocade jade-ring cord, white square-heart collar and inner garment, silver-brown waist band, two jade-bead pendants, gilt silver leather belt, black shoes, white damask socks. Positive second rank: seven-beam crown, silver upright brush, rhinoceros guide, no sword, scarlet great sleeve, mixed-flower halo brocade jade-ring cord; otherwise as first rank. Positive fourth rank: five-beam crown, silver brush, rhinoceros hairpin, white-lion brocade silver-ring cord, bead pendant, silver belt; the Vice Censor-in-chief wore xiezhi crown and green lotus cord; otherwise the same. Positive fifth rank: four-beam crown, four-cluster gold-carved brocade copper-ring cord, silver bead pendant; otherwise the same. Positive sixth through seventh rank: three-beam crown, yellow-lion brocade copper-ring cord, copper bead pendant, copper belt; otherwise the same. At the joint sacrifice of the twenty-second year of Dading [1182], acting officials wore: guiding second rank seven beams; third and fourth ranks six beams with gold-floral dress; fifth rank five beams; sixth rank four; seventh rank three; investigating censor xiezhi crown and green cord; eighth and ninth ranks two beams; all else unchanged. Third rank had no separate specification formerly.
41
皇統七年，太常寺言：「太廟成後，奉安神主，祫享行禮，凡行事、執事、助祭、陪位官，准古典當服袞冕、九章畫降龍，隨品各有等差。 《通典》雲虞、夏、殷並十二章，日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲作繪于衣，宗彝、藻、火、粉米、黼、黻絺繡於裳。 周升三辰於旂，登龍於山，登火于宗彝，作九章之服，龍、山、華蟲、火、宗彝繪於衣，藻、粉米、黼、黻繡於裳。 '公之服自袞冕而下如王之服，候伯之服自鷩冕而下如公之服'。 又後魏帝服袞冕，與祭者皆朝服。 又《開元禮》一品服九章。 又《五禮新儀》正一品服九旒冕、犀簪，青衣畫降龍。 今汴京舊禮直官言，自宣和二年已後，一品祭服七旒冕、大袖無龍。 唐雖服九章服，當時司禮少常伯孫茂道言：'諸臣之章雖殊，然飾龍名袞，尊卑相亂，請三公服鷩冕八章為宜。 '臣等竊謂歷代衣服之制不同，若從後魏則止服朝服，或用宋服則為七章，若遵唐九章，則有飾龍名袞尊卑相亂之議。」 尚書省乃奏用後魏故事，止用燕京大冊禮時所服朝服以祭。 大定三年八月，詔遵皇統制，攝官則朝服，散官則公服，以皇太子為亞獻，服袞冕。 十四年，用唐制，若祭遇雨雪則服常服，謂今之公服也。 泰和元年八月，禮官言：「祭服所以接神，朝服所以事君，雖歷代損益不同，然未嘗不有分別。 是以袞冕十二旒，玄衣纁裳備十二章，天子之祭服也。 通天冠、絳紗袍、紅羅裳，天子之視朝服也。 臣下之服則用青衣硃裳以祭，硃衣硃裳以朝。 國朝惟天子備袞冕、通天冠二等之服，今群臣但有朝服，而祭服尚闕，每有祀事但以朝服從事，實於典禮未當。 請依漢、唐故事，祭服冕旒畫章，然君臣冕服雖章數各殊而俱飾龍名袞，而唐孫茂道已有尊卑相亂之論。 然三公法服有龍，恐涉于僭，國初禮官亦嘗駁議。 乞參酌古今，改置祭服，其冠則如朝冠，而但去其貂蟬、豎筆，其服用青衣、硃裳、白襪、硃履，非攝事者則用朝服，庶幾少有差別。」 上曰：「朝、祭之服，固宜分也。」
In the seventh year of Huangtong [1147], the Office of Imperial Sacrifices reported: 'After the Imperial Ancestral Temple was completed and spirit tablets enshrined, officials conducting, assisting, or attending the joint sacrifice should wear robe and crown bearing nine emblems with painted descending dragons, graded by rank per classical precedent. The Comprehensive Institutions records that Yu, Xia, and Yin all used twelve emblems: sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, and floral creatures painted on the upper garment; ancestral vessels, algae, fire, powder-grain, fu, and fu-corner fine-embroidered on the skirt. Zhou raised the three luminaries to the banner, set dragons on mountains and fire on ancestral vessels, and made nine-emblem dress with dragons, mountains, floral creatures, fire, and ancestral vessels painted on the garment and algae, powder-grain, fu, and fu-corner embroidered on the skirt. The duke's dress from robe and crown downward matched the king's; the marquis and earl's from pheasant crown downward matched the duke's. In Later Wei the emperor wore robe and crown, yet all sacrifice participants wore court dress. The Kaiyuan Rites likewise assigned nine emblems to first rank. The New Rituals of the Five Ceremonies specified positive first rank: nine-tassel crown, rhinoceros hairpin, and green garment painted with descending dragons. Bianjing ritual officers reported that from the second year of Xuanhe [1120] onward, first-rank sacrificial dress used a seven-tassel crown and great sleeves without dragons. Tang officials wore nine emblems, yet Vice Minister of Rites Sun Maodao argued: 'Though ministers' emblems differ, dragon ornament still makes all robes alike and blurs rank; the three dukes should wear pheasant crown with eight emblems.' We note that dress regulations differ by dynasty: Later Wei used only court dress; Song used seven emblems; Tang's nine emblems revived the complaint that dragon ornament and the name robe blur rank.' The Secretariat memorialized to follow Later Wei and use only the court dress worn at Yanjing's great investiture rite for sacrifice. In the eighth month of the third year of Dading [1163], an edict followed Huangtong practice: acting officials in court dress, honorary officials in official dress, and the crown prince as secondary offerer in robe and crown. In the fourteenth year [1174], Tang practice applied: if rain or snow fell during sacrifice, regular dress—today's official dress—was worn. In the eighth month of the first year of Taihe [1201], ritual officials argued: 'Sacrificial dress receives the spirits and court dress serves the ruler; though dynasties altered the details, the distinction was never abandoned. Thus robe and crown with twelve tassels and black upper garment with scarlet skirt bearing twelve emblems constituted the Son of Heaven's sacrificial dress. Penetration-heaven cap, scarlet gauze robe, and red brocade skirt were the Son of Heaven's dress for court audiences. Ministers sacrificed in green upper garment and vermilion skirt and attended court in vermilion upper garment and vermilion skirt. Only the Son of Heaven possessed both robe-and-crown and penetration-heaven dress; officials had court dress but no sacrificial dress and used court dress at every sacrifice—improper under the canon. They proposed Han and Tang sacrificial dress with tasseled crowns and painted emblems, yet minister and ruler alike bore dragons and were called robe—exactly the rank confusion Sun Maodao had criticized in Tang. Yet statutory dress for the three dukes included dragons, risking imperial presumption—a point early Jin ritualists had already challenged. They asked to consult past and present and establish sacrificial dress: court-style crown without sable tail or upright brush; green upper garment, vermilion skirt, white socks, and vermilion shoes; non-acting officials in court dress—so some distinction might remain.' The emperor replied: 'Court dress and sacrificial dress ought indeed to be separate.'
42
大定官制，文資五品以上官服紫。 三師、三公、親王、宰相一品官服大獨科花羅，徑不過五寸，執政官服小獨科花羅，徑不過三寸。 二品、三品服散搭花羅，謂無枝葉者，徑不過寸半。 四品、五品服小雜花羅，謂花頭碎小者，徑不過一寸。 六品、七品服緋芝麻羅。 八品、九品服綠無紋羅。 應武官皆服紫。 凡散官、職事皆從一高，上得兼下，下不得僭上，窄紫亦同服色，各依官制品格。 其諸局分承應人並服無紋素羅。 十五年制曰：「袍不加襴，非古也。」 遂命文資官公服皆加襴。 帶制，皇太子玉帶，佩玉雙魚袋。 親王玉帶，佩玉魚。 一品玉帶，佩金魚。 二品笏頭球文金帶，佩金魚。 三品、四品荔枝或禦仙花金帶，並佩金魚。 五品，服紫者紅鞓烏犀帶，佩金魚，服緋者紅鞓烏犀帶，佩銀魚，服綠者並皁鞓烏犀帶。 武官，一品、二品佩帶同，三品、四品金帶，五品、六品、七品紅鞓烏犀帶，皆不佩魚，八品以下並皁鞓烏犀帶。 司天、太醫、內侍、教坊，服皆同文武官，惟不佩魚。 應殿庭承應五品以下官，非入內不許金帶，又展紫入殿庭者，並許服紅鞓，不佩魚。 又二品以上官，許兼服通犀帶，三品官若治事及見賓客，許兼服花犀帶。 大定二年制，百官趨朝、赴省，並須裹帶。 五品以上官，趨朝則朝服，赴省則展皁，雨雪沾衣則從便。 凡朝參，主寶、主符展紫，禦仙花或太平花金束帶。 近侍給使、供御筆硯、直長、符寶吏紫襖子，塗金束帶。 輪直，則近侍給使並常服，常服則展紫。 閣門六尚，遇朝參侍立則服本品服，若宮中當直則服窄紫、金帶。 學士院官、修起居注、補闕、拾遺、秘書丞、秘書郎，朝參侍立則服本品服、色帶。 當直則窄紫、金帶。 東宮左右衛率、僕正、副僕正、典儀、贊儀、內直郎丞，當直亦許服之。 太子太師出入宮中則展紫，至東宮則展皁，三少則展紫。
Under the Dading official system, civil officials fifth rank and above wore purple. Grand Preceptor, three dukes, princes, and first-rank chief ministers wore large single-stem floral brocade no more than five cun across; chief councillors wore small single-stem floral brocade no more than three cun. Second and third ranks wore scattered floral brocade without branches or leaves, not exceeding one and a half cun across. Fourth and fifth ranks wore small mixed floral brocade with fine fragmented blossoms, not exceeding one cun across. Sixth and seventh ranks wore scarlet sesame brocade. Eighth and ninth ranks wore plain green brocade. All military officials wore purple. Honorary and substantive offices followed whichever rank was higher; superiors might combine downward but inferiors might not usurp upward; narrow purple followed the same color rules by grade. All bureau attendants wore unpatterned plain gauze. A fifteenth-year regulation declared: 'Robes without lan borders are uncanonical.' Civil officials' official dress was then required to add lan borders. Belt regulations: the crown prince wore a jade belt with jade double-fish pouch. Princes wore jade belts with jade fish. First rank: jade belt with gold fish. Second rank: tablet-head ball-pattern gold belt with gold fish. Third and fourth ranks: lychee or imperial immortal-flower gold belt, all with gold fish. Fifth rank: purple dress meant red-girdle rhinoceros belt with gold fish; scarlet meant red-girdle rhinoceros belt with silver fish; green meant black-girdle rhinoceros belt. Military officials: first and second ranks shared belt rules; third and fourth ranks gold belt; fifth through seventh red-girdle rhinoceros belt without fish; eighth rank and below black-girdle rhinoceros belt. Astronomers, imperial physicians, inner attendants, and Music Bureau officials dressed like civil and military officers but wore no fish. Hall attendants fifth rank and below might not use gold belts unless entering the inner palace; those spreading purple in the hall court might use red girdles without fish. Officials second rank and above might also wear penetrating rhinoceros belts; third-rank officials conducting business or receiving guests might wear floral rhinoceros belts. A Dading second-year rule required all officials to wear wrapped belts when hurrying to court or attending their ministry. Fifth rank and above wore court dress when hurrying to audience and spread-black boots at the ministry; rain or snow permitted convenience. At court attendance, seal and talisman keepers spread purple with imperial immortal-flower or great-peace-flower gold bound belts. Close attendants, imperial writing supply clerks, duty chiefs, and talisman clerks wore purple jackets with gilt bound belts. On rotation duty, close attendants and supply clerks wore regular dress—spreading purple. Gate Department chamber officers wore their rank's dress at court but narrow purple and gold belt on palace duty. Hanlin officials, Veritable Record compilers, remonstrance officers, secretaries, and clerks wore rank dress and colored belts at court, narrow purple and gold belt on duty. On duty they wore narrow purple and gold belt. Eastern Palace guard commanders, stewards, ritual and praise masters, and inner-duty clerks might wear the same on duty. The crown prince's Grand Preceptor spread purple in the palace and black at the Eastern Palace; the three lesser tutors spread purple.
43
輿服下
Carriages and Clothing, Part Three
44
衣服通制
General Regulations for Clothing
45
君子之服，以稱德也，故德之備者其文備。 古者王公及士庶人莫不各有一定之制，而不敢相逾者，蓋風俗之奢儉，法令之齊一，必於是而觀焉。 《詩》曰：「彼都人士，狐裘黃黃。 其容不改，出言有章。」 其三章曰：「彼都人士，充耳琇實。 彼君子女，謂之尹吉。」 此言都邑之盛，人物之懿也。 明昌間，章宗謂宰臣曰：「今風俗侈靡，莫若律以制度，使貴賤有等。 其令禮部具典故以聞。」 他日又謂參知政事張萬公曰：「山東風俗如何？」 萬公對以奢，左丞守貞因言衣服之制，上曰：「如卿所言，正恐失人心耳。」 守貞曰：「止是商賈有不悅者。」 萬公曰：「乞寬與之期，三年之內當如制矣。」 於是，上以禮部所擬太繁，以尚書省所擬而行之。 嗟乎！ 人君以風俗為言，其亦知所務矣。
A gentleman's dress should match his virtue; complete virtue calls for complete ornament. In antiquity, from kings and dukes to commoners, each rank had fixed dress and dared not overstep—by which one could read custom's extravagance or frugality and law's uniformity. The Odes says: 'Those gentlemen of the capital, in fox fur bright and yellow. Their bearing unchanged, their speech well ordered.' The third chapter says: 'Those gentlemen of the capital, ear-stoppers of fine stone. Those ladies of the lord, called Yin the auspicious.' This praises the capital's splendor and its people's excellence. During Mingchang, Emperor Zhangzong told his chief ministers: 'Custom has grown extravagant; we should regulate it by law so rank is clear. He ordered the Ministry of Rites to gather precedents and report.' Another day he asked Vice Director Zhang Wangong: 'How is Shandong custom?' Wang replied that it was extravagant; Left Vice Director Shouzhen raised clothing regulations; the emperor said: 'As you say, I fear only losing hearts.' Shouzhen said: 'Only merchants would be displeased.' Wang said: 'Grant a generous deadline; within three years it should match the regulations.' The emperor found the Ministry of Rites' draft too elaborate and implemented the Secretariat's version. Alas! When a ruler speaks of custom, he knows what truly matters.
46
金人之常服四：帶，巾，盤領衣，烏皮靴。 其束帶曰吐鶻。 巾之制，以皁羅若紗為之，上結方頂，折垂於後。 頂之下際兩角各綴方羅徑二寸許，方羅之下各附帶長六七寸。 當橫額之上，或為一縮襞積。 貴顯者于方頂，循十字縫飾以珠，其中必貫以大者，謂之頂珠。 帶旁各絡珠結綬，長半帶，垂之，海陵賜大興國者是也。 其衣色多白，三品以皁，窄袖，盤領，縫腋，下為襞積，而不缺袴。 其胸臆肩袖，或飾以金繡，其從春水之服則多鶻捕鵝，雜花卉之飾，其從秋山之服則以熊鹿山林為文，其長中骭，取便於騎也。 吐鶻，玉為上，金次之，犀象骨角又次之。 銙鞓，小者間置於前，大者施於後，左右有變雙䤩尾，納方束中，其刻琢多如春水秋山之飾。 左佩牌，右佩刀。 刀貴鑌，柄尚雞舌木，黃黑相半，有黑雙距者為上，或三事五事。 室飾以醬瓣樺，𨭚口飾以鮫，或屑金鍮和漆，塗鮫隙而礲平之。 醬瓣樺者，謂樺皮班文色殷紫如醬中豆瓣也，產其國，故尚之。
Jin regular dress comprised four items: belt, headcloth, round-collar garment, and black leather boots. Their bound belt was called tuhe. The headcloth was black gauze or silk, tied in a square top above and folded down behind. Below the top's corners hung square gauze patches about two cun across, each with bands six or seven cun long beneath. Above the forehead band there might be one gathered pleat. The eminent ornamented the square top's cross seams with pearls, threading a large one through the center as the top pearl. Beside the bands hung pearl-knotted cords half the belt's length—the type Prince Hailing bestowed on Daxing. Garments were mostly white; third rank used black: narrow sleeves, round collar, side seams, pleated skirts below, without slit trousers. Chest, shoulders, and sleeves might bear gold embroidery; spring-water dress favored hawks catching geese and mixed flowers; autumn-mountain dress bore bears, deer, and forests; length reached mid-calf for riding. For tuhe belts, jade ranked highest, then gold, then rhinoceros, ivory, bone, and horn. Belt plaques: small ones spaced in front, large ones at the rear; paired tin tails left and right fitted into the square binding, carved like spring-water and autumn-mountain motifs. Plaque on the left, knife on the right. Knives prized wootz steel with chicken-tongue wood handles half yellow and half black; black double-spur mounts were finest, in three- or five-piece sets. Scabbards used sauce-spot birch; mouths ray skin—or gold and brass in lacquer filling ray-skin gaps ground smooth. Sauce-spot birch was birch bark mottled dark purple like beans in sauce, native to their land and therefore prized.
47
初，女直人不得改為漢姓及學南人裝束，違者杖八十，編為永制。
Early on Jurchens might not adopt Han surnames or southern dress; violators received eighty strokes, codified as perpetual law.
48
婦人服襜裙，多以黑紫，上編繡全枝花，周身六襞積。 上衣謂之團衫，用黑紫或皁及紺，直領，左衽，掖縫，兩傍複為雙襞積，前拂地，後曳地尺餘。 帶色用紅黃，前變垂至下齊。 年老者以皁紗籠髻如巾狀，散綴玉鈿於上，謂之玉逍遙。 此皆遼服也，金亦襲之。 許嫁之女則服綽子，制如婦人服，以紅或銀褐明金為之，對襟彩領，前齊拂地，後曳五寸餘。
Women wore dan skirts, mostly black-purple, the upper part woven with full-branch flowers in six pleats all around. The upper garment, called a round shirt, was black-purple, black, or dark blue with straight collar and left lapel, side seams, twin pleats on both sides, front brushing the ground and rear trailing over a chi. Belts were red-yellow with front flaps hanging to the lower hem. Elderly women caged their buns in black gauze like a headcloth, scattering jade hairpins above—the jade carefree. These were Liao styles, which Jin also inherited. Betrothed daughters wore wrapper coats like women's dress in scarlet or silver-brown bright gold, facing lapels with colored collars, front even with the ground and rear trailing five cun more.
49
明昌六年制，文武官六貫石以上承應人並及廕者，許用牙領，紫圓板皁條羅帶，皁靴，上得兼下。 系籍儒生止服白衫領，系背帶並以紫圓絛羅帶，乾皁靴。 餘人用純紫領，不得用緣，雜色圓板絛羅帶不得用紫，靴用黃及黑油皁蠟等，婦人各從便。 泰和四年，以親王品官既分領緣，而複有皁靴之禁，似涉太煩，遂聽親王用銀褐領紫緣，品官皆紫領白緣，餘從明昌制。
Mingchang year six allowed attendants of civil and military officials at six guan-shi and above—and their enfeoffed heirs—ivory collars, purple round-plaque black-stripe gauze belts, and black boots, with downward combination permitted. Registered scholars wore white-shirt collars, back-fastening bands, purple round-cord gauze belts, and dry black boots. Others used pure purple collars without borders; mixed round-plaque cord belts might not be purple; boots were yellow, black oil, or black wax; women dressed as convenient. Taihe year four eased collar rules: princes might use silver-brown collars with purple borders; ranked officials purple collars with white borders; other Mingchang rules remained.
50
書袋之制。 大定十六年，世宗以吏員與士民之服無別，潛入民間受賕轀獄，有司不能檢察，遂定懸書袋之制。 省、樞密院令、譯史用紫襜絲為之，台、六部、宗正、統軍司、檢察司以黑斜皮為之，寺、監、隨朝諸局、並州縣，並黃皮為之，各長七寸，闊二寸、厚半寸，並於束帶上懸帶，公退則懸於便服，違者所司糾之。
Regulations for Document Pouches In the sixteenth year of Dading [1176], Emperor Shizong found clerks indistinguishable from commoners, secretly taking bribes among the people beyond official inspection, and mandated suspended document pouches. Provincial offices, Privy Council orders, and translators used purple dan silk pouches; the Censorate, Six Ministries, Imperial Clan Court, Commandery Office, and Inspection Office used black slanted leather; temples, directorates, court bureaus, and local governments used yellow leather. Each pouch was seven cun long, two cun wide, and half a cun thick, suspended from the official belt and moved to informal dress after hours; violators were disciplined by the responsible office.
51
大定十三年，太常寺擬士人及僧尼道女冠有師號、並良閑官八品以上，許服花紗綾羅絲綢。 在官承應有出身人、帶八品以下官，未帶官亦同，許服花紗綾羅襜絲絲綢，家屬同，婦人許用珠為首飾。 其都孔目與八品良閑官同，京府州縣司吏皆與庶人同。 庶人止許服霡綢、絹布、毛褐、花紗、無紋素羅、絲綿，其頭巾、系腰、領帕許用芝麻羅、絛用絨織成者，不得以金玉犀象諸寶瑪瑙玻璃之類為器皿、及裝飾刀把鞘、並銀裝釘床榻之類。 婦人首飾，不許用珠翠鈿子等物，翠毛除許裝飾花環冠子，餘外並禁。 兵卒許服無紋壓羅、霡綢、絹布、毛褐。 奴婢止許服霡綢、絹布、毛褐。 倡優遇迎接、公筵承應，許暫服繪畫之服，其私服與庶人同。
In the thirteenth year of Dading [1173], the Office of Imperial Sacrifices ruled that scholars, titled Buddhist and Daoist clergy, and good or leisure officials of eighth rank and above might wear floral gauze, damask, silk gauze, and silk. Serving attendants with examination backgrounds, officials of eighth rank and below (including those not yet formally commissioned), might wear floral gauze, damask, dan silk, and silk, as could their families; women might use pearls in head ornaments. Capital chief clerks followed eighth-rank good and leisure officials; capital, prefectural, and county clerks followed commoners. Commoners might wear only mist silk, silk cloth, woolens, floral gauze, plain gauze, and silk floss, with sesame gauze for headcloth, waist tie, and collar scarf and velvet-woven cords. They might not use gold, jade, rhinoceros, ivory, precious stones, agate, or glass for vessels, knife fittings, or silver-mounted bed furniture. Women's head ornaments might not include pearls, kingfisher inlay, or similar pieces, except that kingfisher feathers were allowed on floral-wreath crowns; all else was forbidden. Soldiers and garrison troops might wear unpatterned pressed gauze, mist silk, silk cloth, or woolens. Slaves might wear only mist silk, silk cloth, or woolens. Actors and entertainers might temporarily wear painted costumes when receiving guests or serving at public banquets, but their private dress matched commoners.