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儀衛誌二○國服
Ceremonial Guards, Part 2 — National Dress
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上古之人，網罟禽獸，食肉衣皮，以儷鹿韋掩前後，謂之鞸。 然後夏葛冬裘之制興焉。 周公陳王業，《七月》之詩，至於一日於貉，三月條桑，八月載績，公私之用由是出矣。 契丹轉居薦草之間，去邃古之風猶未遠也。 太祖仲父述瀾，以遙輦氏於越之官，占居潢河沃壤，始置城邑，為樹藝、桑麻、組織之教，有遼王業之隆，其亦肇跡於此乎！ 太祖帝北方，太宗制中國，紫銀之鼠，羅綺之篚，麇載而至。 纖麗耎毳，被土綢木。 於是定衣冠之制，北班國制，南班漢制，各從其便焉。 詳國服以著厥始雲。
In high antiquity, people hunted game with nets, ate meat and wore hides, and covered themselves front and back with paired deer hides—this was called the bian apron. Only then did the custom of ramie in summer and furs in winter take shape. The Duke of Zhou set forth the royal enterprise, and in the "Seventh Month" ode one finds a day spent hunting badgers, the third month devoted to tending mulberry, and the eighth month bearing home the spun cloth—thus arose what supplied both public and private needs. The Khitan roamed among saltwort pastures, and customs of the deep past were still close at hand. Emperor Taizu's uncle Shulü, who held the office of yuyue in the Yaonian clan, settled on the fertile banks of the Huang River, founded the first walled towns, and introduced agriculture, sericulture, and weaving. The grandeur of the Liao royal enterprise may well have begun here. Emperor Taizu reigned over the north, and Emperor Taizong governed China; purple-silver sable and baskets of gauze and brocade arrived in train upon train. Fine, lustrous, and soft furs spread over the land as silk might cover trees. Regulations for caps and robes were then established: the northern court followed Khitan national dress and the southern court Chinese dress, each according to its own usage. National dress is described in detail here to record how it began.
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祭服：遼國以祭山為大禮，服飾尤盛。
Sacrificial dress: the Liao regarded mountain sacrifice as their greatest ritual, and the ceremonial attire was especially magnificent.
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大祀，皇帝服金文金冠，白綾袍，紅帶，懸魚，三山紅垂。 飾犀玉刀錯，絡縫烏靴。
At great sacrifices the emperor wore a gold crown inscribed with gold patterns, a white gauze robe, a red belt, a suspended fish pendant, and three-peaked red streamers. He wore rhinoceros-horn and jade knife ornaments and black boots with ornamental stitching.
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小祀，皇帝硬帽，紅克絲龜文袍。 皇后戴紅帕，服絡縫紅袍，懸玉佩，雙同心帕，絡縫烏靴。 臣僚、命婦服飾，各從本部旗幟之色。
At minor sacrifices the emperor wore a stiff cap and a red ke-si robe patterned with tortoises. The empress wore a red kerchief, a red robe with ornamental stitching, suspended jade pendants, paired concentric kerchiefs, and black boots with ornamental stitching. Officials and ennobled ladies dressed in colors matching the banners of their respective bureaus.
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朝服：太祖丙寅歲即皇帝位，朝服衷甲，以備非常。 其後行瑟瑟禮、大射柳，即此服。 聖宗統和元年冊承天皇太后，給三品以上用漢法服，三品以下用大射柳之服。
Court dress: when Emperor Taizu took the throne in the bingyin year, he wore court robes over hidden armor as a precaution against emergencies. Thereafter this was the dress worn for the sese rite and the great willow-shooting ceremony. In the first year of Tonghe, when Emperor Shengzong invested Empress Dowager Chengtian, officials of third rank and above received Chinese court robes and those below third rank the great willow-shooting dress.
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皇帝服實裏薛袞冠，絡縫紅袍，垂飾犀玉帶錯，絡縫靴，謂之國服袞冕。 太宗更以錦袍、金帶。
The emperor wore the shili xuegun crown, a red robe with ornamental stitching, rhinoceros-horn and jade belt ornaments, and ornamented boots—this was called the national full regalia. Emperor Taizong later substituted a brocade robe and gold belt.
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臣僚戴氈冠，金花為飾，或加珠玉翠毛，額後垂金花，織成夾帶，中貯發一總。 或紗冠，制如烏紗帽，無檐，不擫雙耳。 額前綴金花，上結紫帶。 末綴珠。 服紫窄袍、系䩞鞢帶，以黃紅色絳裹革為之，用金玉、水晶、靛石綴飾，謂之「盤紫」。 太宗更以錦袍、金帶。 會同元年，群臣高年有爵秩者，皆賜之。
Officials wore felt caps decorated with gold flowers, sometimes augmented with pearls, jade, and kingfisher feathers, with gold flowers hanging behind the brow; woven double belts held a lock of hair inside. Some wore gauze caps modeled on the black gauze official hat, brimless and without folded side flaps. Gold flowers were fixed before the brow, with a purple band tied above. Pearls hung from the ends. They wore narrow purple robes and fastened xiedie belts of yellow-red silk-wrapped leather ornamented with gold, jade, crystal, and lapis lazuli—this ensemble was called "panzi." Emperor Taizong later substituted a brocade robe and gold belt. In the first year of Huitong, all ministers of advanced age who held noble ranks were granted this dress.
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公服：謂之「展裹」，著紫。 興宗重熙二十二年，詔八房族巾幘。 道宗清寧元年，詔非勛戚之後及夷離堇副使並承應有職事人，不帶巾。
Official dress, called "zhan guo," was worn in purple. In the twenty-second year of Chongxi, Emperor Xingzong ordered the eight house clans to wear headcloths and caps. In the first year of Qingning, Emperor Daozong decreed that only descendants of meritorious families, deputy yilijin, and attendants holding official posts might wear the headcloth.
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皇帝紫皂幅巾，紫窄袍，玉束帶，或衣紅襖； 臣僚亦幅巾，紫衣。 常服：
The emperor wore a purple-black wrapped headcloth, a narrow purple robe, and a jade girdle, or sometimes a red jacket; Officials likewise wore wrapped headcloths and purple garments. Ordinary dress:
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《宰相中謝儀》，帝常服。 《高麗使入見儀》，臣僚便衣，謂之「盤裹」。 綠花窄袍，中單多紅綠色。 貴者披貂裘，以紫黑色為貴，青次之。 又有銀鼠，尤潔白。 賤者貂毛、羊、鼠、沙狐裘。
In the Rite of the Chancellor's Mid-Audience Thanks, the emperor wore ordinary dress. In the Rite of the Goryeo Envoy's Audience, officials wore informal dress called "pan guo." They wore narrow robes with green floral patterns and undergarments mostly in red and green. The wealthy wore sable cloaks; purple-black was most prized, blue next in rank. There was also silver sable, prized for its exceptional whiteness. Those of lower rank wore sable hair, sheep, rat, and sand-fox furs.
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田獵服：
Hunting dress:
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皇帝幅巾，擐甲戎裝，以貂鼠或鵝項、鴨頭為扞腰。 蕃漢諸司使以上並戎裝，衣皆左衽，黑綠色。 吊服：太祖叛弟剌哥等降，素服受之。 素服，乘赭白馬。
The emperor wore a wrapped headcloth and martial armor, with sable, goose-neck, or duck-head pieces as waist guards. Khitan and Han commissioners of the various bureaus and above all wore martial dress with left-lapped garments in black-green. Mourning dress: when Emperor Taizu's rebel younger brother Cige and others surrendered, he received them in plain white dress. He wore plain white dress and rode a reddish-white horse.
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祭服：終遼之世，郊丘不建，大裘冕服不書。
Sacrificial dress: throughout the Liao dynasty suburban altars were never established, and the great fur robe and full regalia are not described here.
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袞冕，祭祀宗廟、遣上將出征、飲至、踐阼、加元服、納後若元日受朝則服之。 金飾，垂白珠十二旒，以組為纓，色如其綬，黈纊充耳，玉簪導。 玄衣、纁裳十二章：八章在衣，日、月、星、龍、華蟲、火、山、宗彜； 四章在裳，藻、粉米、黼、黻。 衣褾領，為升龍織成文，各為六等。 龍山以下，每章一行，行十二，白紗中單，黼領，青褾襈裾，黼革帶、大帶，劍佩綬，舄加金飾。 《元日朝會儀》，皇帝服袞冕。
Full regalia was worn for sacrifices at the ancestral temple, dispatching great generals on campaign, victory banquets, ascending the throne, coming-of-age ceremonies, receiving an empress, and the New Year's court audience. It was adorned with gold; twelve strings of white pearls hung down; silk cords served as tassels matching the sash in color; yellow silk filled the ears; and jade hairpins secured the crown. The black upper robe and vermilion lower skirt bore twelve emblems: eight on the robe—the sun, moon, stars, dragon, flowering creatures, fire, mountain, and ritual vessels; four on the skirt—waterweed, grain, axe-head pattern, and opposed squares. The collar and lapel were woven with ascending dragons in six grades. Below the dragon and mountain emblems, each symbol occupied one row of twelve; there was a white gauze undergarment, an axe-pattern collar, blue lapel and vermilion skirt hem, axe-pattern leather and great belts, sword, pendant sash, and gold-adorned shoes. In the Rite of the New Year's Court Assembly, the emperor wore full regalia.
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朝服：乾亨五年，聖宗冊承天太后，給三品以上法服。 《雜禮》，冊承天太后儀，侍中就席解劍脫履。 重熙五年尊號冊禮，皇帝服龍袞，北南臣僚並朝服，蓋遼制。 會同中，太后、北面臣僚國服； 皇帝、南面臣僚漢服。 乾亨以後，大禮雖北面三品以上亦用漢服； 重熙以後，大禮並漢服矣。 常朝仍遵會同之制。
Court dress: in the fifth year of Qianheng, when Emperor Shengzong invested Empress Dowager Chengtian, officials of third rank and above received formal court robes. In the Miscellaneous Rites, at the investiture of Empress Dowager Chengtian, the attendant-in-chief took his seat, removed his sword, and took off his shoes. At the honorific-title investiture in the fifth year of Chongxi, the emperor wore dragon regalia and officials of both northern and southern courts wore court dress—this was Liao practice. During the Huitong period, the empress dowager and northern-court officials wore Khitan national dress; while the emperor and southern-court officials wore Chinese dress. After Qianheng, even at great rites northern-court officials of third rank and above wore Chinese dress; After Chongxi, great rites were conducted entirely in Chinese dress. Ordinary court audiences still followed the Huitong regulations.
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皇帝通天冠，諸祭還及冬至、朔日受朝、臨軒拜王公、元會、冬會服之。 冠加金博山，附蟬十二，首施珠翠。 黑介幘，緌纓翠緌，玉若犀簪導。 絳紗袍，白紗中單，褾領，朱襈裾，白裙襦，絳蔽膝，白假帶方心曲領。 其革帶佩劍綬，襪舄。 若未加元服，則雙童髻，空頂，黑介幘，雙玉導，加寶飾。 《元日上壽儀》，皇帝服通天冠，絳紗袍。
The emperor wore the tongtian crown when returning from sacrifices, and at the winter solstice, new-moon audiences, hall audiences honoring princes and dukes, the New Year's assembly, and the winter assembly. The crown bore a gold Boshan peak, twelve attached cicada ornaments, and pearls and kingfisher feathers on the brow. He wore a black inner cap with tassel cords and kingfisher tassels, secured by jade or rhinoceros-horn hairpins. He wore a crimson gauze robe over a white gauze undergarment, with lapel collar, vermilion skirt hem, white skirt and jacket, crimson knee covers, and a white false belt with square heart and curved collar. A leather belt, sword, pendant sash, socks, and shoes completed the ensemble. If he had not yet undergone the coming-of-age ceremony, he wore paired child topknots, a bare crown, a black inner cap, paired jade hairpins, and precious ornaments. In the Rite of New Year's Birthday Congratulations, the emperor wore the tongtian crown and crimson gauze robe.
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皇太子遠遊冠，謁廟還宮、元日、冬至朔日入朝服之。 三梁冠，加金附蟬九，首施珠翠。 黑介幘，發纓翠緌，犀簪導。 絳紗袍，白紗中單，皂領褾，襈裾，白裾襦，白假帶方心曲領，絳紗蔽膝。 其革帶劍佩綬，襪舄與上同，後改用白襪、黑舄。 未冠，則雙童髻，空頂，黑介幘，雙玉導，加寶飾。 《冊皇太子儀》，皇太子冠遠遊，服絳紗袍。
The crown prince wore the yuanyou crown when returning from temple visits and on New Year's Day and the winter-solstice new-moon court audience. It was a three-ridged crown with gold and nine attached cicadas, with pearls and kingfisher feathers on the brow. He wore a black inner cap with hair tassels and kingfisher cords, secured by rhinoceros-horn hairpins. He wore a crimson gauze robe over a white gauze undergarment, with black collar and lapel, vermilion skirt hem, white skirt and jacket, white false belt with square heart and curved collar, and crimson gauze knee covers. The leather belt, sword, pendant sash, socks, and shoes matched the emperor's; later white socks and black shoes were adopted. Before his crowning, he wore paired child topknots, a bare crown, a black inner cap, paired jade hairpins, and precious ornaments. In the Rite of Investiture of the Crown Prince, the crown prince wore the yuanyou crown and crimson gauze robe.
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親王遠遊冠，陪祭朝饗、拜表、大事服之。 冠三梁，加金附蟬。 黑介幘，青緌導。 絳紗單衣，白紗中單，皂領，襈裾，白裾襦。 革帶鈎䚢，假帶曲領方心，絳紗蔽膝，襪舄，劍佩綬二品以上同。
Imperial princes wore the yuanyou crown when accompanying sacrifices, attending court feasts, presenting memorials, and on other great occasions. The crown had three ridges with gold and attached cicadas. He wore a black inner cap with blue tassel guides. He wore a crimson gauze outer garment over a white gauze undergarment, with black collar, vermilion skirt hem, and white skirt and jacket. He wore a leather belt with hooks and plaques, a false belt with curved collar and square heart, crimson gauze knee covers, socks and shoes, and sword and pendant sash as for second rank and above.
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諸王遠遊冠，三梁，黑介幘，青緌。 三品以上進賢冠，三梁，寶飾。 五品以上進賢冠，二梁，金飾。 九品以上進賢冠，一梁，無飾。
Princes wore the three-ridged yuanyou crown with a black inner cap and blue tassels. Officials of third rank and above wore the three-ridged jinxian crown with precious ornaments. Officials of fifth rank and above wore the two-ridged jinxian crown with gold ornaments. Officials of ninth rank and above wore the one-ridged jinxian crown without ornaments.
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七品以上去劍佩綬。 八品以下同公服。 公服：《勘箭儀》，閣使公服，系履。 遼國常用公服矣。
Officials of seventh rank and above did without sword and pendant sash. Officials of eighth rank and below wore the same as official dress. Official dress: in the Arrow-Verification Rite, pavilion envoys wore official dress and tied on their shoes. The Liao commonly wore official dress.
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皇帝翼善冠，朔視朝用之。 柘黃袍，九環帶，白練裙襦，六合靴。
The emperor wore the yishan crown for new-moon court audiences. He wore a cudrania-yellow robe, a nine-ring belt, a white silk skirt and jacket, and six-panel boots.
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皇太子遠遊冠，五日常朝、元日、冬至受朝服。 絳紗單衣，白裙襦，革帶，金鈎䚢，假帶方心，紛鞶囊，白䚢，烏皮履。
The crown prince wore the yuanyou crown for weekday audiences, New Year's Day, and the winter-solstice audience. He wore a crimson gauze outer garment, white skirt and jacket, leather belt with gold hooks and plaques, false belt with square heart, patterned pouch, white plaques, and black leather shoes.
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一品以下、五品以上。 冠幘纓，簪導，謁見東宮及餘公事服之。 絳紗單衣，白裙襦，帶鈎䚢，假帶方心，襪履，紛鞶囊。 六品以下，冠幘纓，簪導，去紛鞶囊，餘並同。
For officials below first rank and of fifth rank and above: They wore caps with headcloth tassels and hairpin guides when attending upon the Eastern Palace and on other official business. They wore crimson gauze outer garments, white skirts and jackets, belts with hooks and plaques, false belts with square heart, socks and shoes, and patterned pouches. Officials of sixth rank and below wore caps with headcloth tassels and hairpin guides but without the patterned pouch; otherwise the same.
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常服：遼國謂之「穿執」。 起居禮臣僚穿執。 言穿靴、執笏也。
Ordinary dress: the Liao called it "chuan zhi." In the daily-audience rite, officials wore chuan zhi. The term means wearing boots and holding the court tablet.
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皇帝柘黃袍衫，折上頭巾，九環帶，六合靴，起自宇文氏。 唐太宗貞觀已後，非元日、冬至受朝及大祭祀，皆常服而已。
The emperor wore a cudrania-yellow robe and jacket, a folded-up headcloth, a nine-ring belt, and six-panel boots—a style originating with the Yuwen clan. After the Zhenguan reign of Emperor Taizong of Tang, ordinary dress alone sufficed except for New Year's and winter-solstice audiences and great sacrifices.
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皇太子進德冠，九琪，金飾，絳紗單衣，白裙襦，白襪，烏皮履。
The crown prince wore the jinde crown with nine qi and gold ornaments, a crimson gauze outer garment, white skirt and jacket, white socks, and black leather shoes.
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五品以上，襆頭，亦曰折上巾，紫袍，牙笏，金玉帶。 文官佩手巾、算袋、刀子、礪石、金魚袋； 武官䩞鞢七事：佩刀、刀子、磨石、契真、噦厥、針筒、火石袋。 烏皮六合靴。
Officials of fifth rank and above wore the futou, also called the folded-up headcloth, with a purple robe, an ivory tablet, and a gold-and-jade belt. Civil officials carried a handkerchief, abacus pouch, knife, whetstone, and gold fish pouch; Military officials wore seven xiedie accoutrements: a waist sword, knife, whetstone, qizhen, yujue, needle case, and flint pouch. They wore black leather six-panel boots.
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六品以下，襆頭，緋衣，木笏，銀帶，銀魚袋佩，靴同。
Officials of sixth rank and below wore the futou, scarlet robe, wooden tablet, silver belt, and silver fish pouch, with the same boots.
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八品九品，襆頭，綠袍，鍮石帶，靴同。
Officials of the eighth and ninth ranks wore the futou, green robe, and cupronickel belt, with the same boots.