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南齊書卷十七‧志第九
Volume 17 Treatises 9: Carriages and Dress
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昔三皇乘祇車出谷口，夏氏以奚仲爲車正，殷有瑞車，山車垂句是也。 《周禮》匠人爲輿，以象天地。 漢武天漢四年，朝諸侯甘泉宮，定輿服制，班于天下。 光武建武十三年，得公孫述葆車，輿輦始具。 蔡邕創立此志，馬彪勒成漢典，晉摯虞治禮，亦議五輅制度。 江左之始，車服多闕，但有金戎，省充庭之儀。 太興中，太子臨學，無高蓋車，元帝詔乘安車。 元、明時，屬車唯九乘。 永和中，石虎死後，舊工人奔叛歸國，稍造車輿。 太元中，苻堅敗後，又得偽車輦，於是屬車增爲十二乘。 義熙中，宋武平關、洛，得姚興偽車輦。 宋大明改脩輦輅，妙盡時華，始備偽氐，復設充庭之制。 永明中，更增藻飾，盛於前矣。 案《周禮》以檢《漢志》，名器不同，晉、宋改革，稍與世異，今記時事而已。
In antiquity the Three Sovereigns rode the sacred carriage out from the valley gate; the Xia appointed Xi Zhong Master of Chariots; the Yin had the auspicious chariot — the mountain cart with drooping axles tells that tale. The Rites of Zhou have the craftsman shape the carriage as Heaven and Earth in miniature. In Han Wudi's Tianhan 4 he assembled the feudal lords at Sweet Springs Palace, set the carriage and regalia code, and sent it throughout the empire. In Guangwu's Jianwu 13 he captured Gongsun Shu's treasure carriage; the full set of state litters was first assembled. Cai Yong began this treatise; Ma Biao finished the Han record; under Jin, Zhi Yu curated the rites and debated the five ceremonial chariots as well. Early in the southeast court, carriages and dress were mostly missing; only the golden war carriage survived, and the palace-yard display was cut back. In Taixing, when the crown prince went to his studies there was no high-canopy coach; Yuan Di decreed he use the comfort carriage instead. Under Emperors Yuan and Ming, the train had only nine following carriages. In Yonghe, after Shi Hu died, old artisans fled home and chariot-making slowly resumed. In Taiyuan, after Fu Jian's defeat they seized Former Qin litters and raised the train to twelve carriages. In Yixi, Emperor Wu of Song took the Pass and Luoyang and captured Yao Xing's Qin litters. Under Song's Daming they rebuilt the litters and ceremonial chariots with every luxury of the age, first completed the Qin equipment, and restored the palace-yard display. In Yongming they added still richer ornament — grander than ever. Measured against the Rites of Zhou and the Han Treatise, titles and regalia no longer match; Jin and Song revisions drifted from ancient usage — here only the present is recorded.
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玉輅，漢金根也。 漆畫輪，金塗縱容後路受福輠。 兩廂上望板前優遊，通緣金塗鏤鍱，碧絞罽，鑿鏤金薄帖。 兩廂外織成衣，兩廂裏上施金塗鏤面釘，瑇瑁帖。 望板廂上金薄帖，金博山，登仙紐，松精。 優遊上和鸞鳥立花趺銜鈴，銀帶瑇瑁筒瓦，金塗鏤鍱，刀格，織成手匡金花鈿錦衣。 優遊下，隱膝，裏施金塗鏤面釘，織成文。 優遊橫前，施瑇瑁帖，金塗花釘。 優遊前，金塗倒龍，後梢鑿銀瑇瑁龜甲，金塗花沓。 望板，金塗受福望龍諸校飾。 抗及諸末，皆螭龍首。 龍汗板，在車前，銀帶花獸，金塗受福，緣裏邊，鏤鍱瑇瑁織成衣。 裏，金塗鏤面花釘。 外，金塗博山、辟邪虎、鳳皇銜花諸校飾。 斗蓋，金塗鏤鍱，二十八爪支子花，黃錦斗衣，復碧絹染布緣油頂，絳系絡，織成顏芚赭舌孔雀毛復錦，綠絞隨陰，懸珠蚌佩，金塗鈴，雲朱結，仙人綬，雜色真孔雀毦。 一轅，漆畫車衡，銀花帶，衡上金塗博山，四和鸞鳥立花趺銜鈴，所謂「鸞鳥立衡」也。 又龍首銜軛，叉髦插翟尾，上下花沓，絳綠系的，望繩八枚。 旂十二旒，畫升龍，竿首金塗龍銜火燄幡，真毦。 棨戟，織成衣，金塗沓駐及受福，金塗鴈鏤鍱。 漆案立牀，在車中，錦復黃絞，爲案立衣。 錦復黃絞鄣泥。 八幅，長九尺，緣紅錦芚帶，織成花芚的。
The Jade Regalia Chariot was the Han "golden-root" carriage. Lacquer-painted wheels; gold-plated longitudinal rails, rear track, and "Receiving Blessing" spokes. On both side panels, before the viewing board, the "Leisurely Tour" rail; gold openwork borders, green twisted gauze and felt, and chased gold foil. Outside both panels, brocade-woven covers; inside both panels above, gold openwork face-nails and tortoiseshell inlay. On the viewing board and panels, gold foil, gold Mount Bo finials, "Ascending Immortal" clasps, and pine essence. Above the "Leisurely Tour" rail, phoenixes on floral bases with bells; silver bands, tortoiseshell tube tiles, gold openwork plaques, blade-racks, brocade hand-guards, golden floral hairpins, and brocade robes. Below the "Leisurely Tour" rail, knee screens lined with gold openwork face-nails and brocade. Before the "Leisurely Tour" cross-rail, tortoiseshell inlay and gold floral nails. Before the "Leisurely Tour" rail, gold inverted dragons; on the rear tip, chased silver tortoiseshell scalework and gold floral tiers. On the viewing board, gold "Receiving Blessing" viewing dragons and other trim. Shafts and every end-piece bore dragon heads. The dragon-sweat board before the carriage: silver bands and floral beasts, gold "Receiving Blessing," bordered lining, openwork plaques, tortoiseshell, and brocade covers. Inside, gold openwork floral nails. Outside, gold Mount Bo finials, demon-quelling tigers, flower-bearing phoenixes, and other trim. The canopy: gold openwork plaques; twenty-eight clawed floral struts; yellow brocade canopy cloth; green dyed border-silk on the oiled crown; crimson cords and netting; brocade with red ochre tongue, peacock feather, and layered brocade; green twisted gauze shading; pearl and clam pendants; gold bells; cloud-cinnabar knots; immortal sashes; and mixed peacock down. One shaft; lacquer-painted axle-tree; silver floral bands; on the axle-tree a gold Mount Bo; four harmonizing phoenixes on floral bases with bells — the so-called 「phoenixes standing on the axle-tree」. A dragon head on the yoke; forked plumes set with pheasant tails; floral tiers above and below; crimson and green cords; eight viewing ropes. A twelve-tasseled banner painted with ascending dragons; at the pole top a gold dragon holding a flame pennant; true down trim. Ceremonial halberds in brocade covers, gold tiered rests and "Receiving Blessing," and gold goose openwork plaques. A lacquered standing case-bed inside the carriage; brocade-backed yellow twisted gauze as its cover. Brocade-backed yellow twisted gauze wheel mud-guards. Eight panels nine feet long, red brocade tongue-bands on the borders, and brocade floral tongues.
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五輅，江左相承駕四馬，左右騑爲六。 施絳系游御繩，其重轂貳轄飛軨幡，用赤油令，有紫真毦。 左纛，置左騑馬軛上。 金鍐，金加冠，狀如玉華形，在馬鍐上。 方釳，鐵廣數寸，有三孔，插翟尾其中。 繁纓，金塗紫皮，紫真毦，橫在馬膺前。 鏤鍚，刻金爲馬面當顱。 皆如古制。 世祖永明初，加玉輅爲重蓋，又作麒麟頭，采畫，以馬首戴之。 竟陵王子良啓曰：「臣聞車旗有章，載自前史，器必依禮，服無舛法。 凡蓋員象天，軫方法地，上無二天之儀，下設兩蓋之飾，求之志錄，恐爲乖衷。 又假爲麟首，加乎馬頭，事不師古，鮮或可施。」 建武中，明帝乃省重蓋等。
The Five Regalia Chariots: in the southeast court they were routinely drawn by four horses, with left and right outriders making six in all. Crimson touring reins were fitted; double hubs, paired linchpins, flying nave pennants followed the red-oil rule, with purple true down. The left great banner was fixed to the left outrider's yoke. The golden cheek-piece: gold crowned in a jade-flower shape, mounted on the horse's cheek-piece. The square iron plate, several inches across, with three holes to take pheasant tails. The full tassel-crown: gold-plated purple leather and purple true down, laid crosswise before the horse's breast. The carved golden brow: gold chased into the horse's forehead plate. All followed the ancient pattern. Early in Yongming, Emperor Shizu gave the Jade Regalia Chariot a double canopy and fashioned a painted qilin head for the horses to wear. Prince Ziliang of Jingling submitted: 「I have heard that carriage banners have their statutes, set down in earlier histories; regalia must follow ritual, and dress must not break the code. The canopy is round as Heaven; the naves square as Earth. Above there is no rite of two heavens; below you add a double-canopy ornament — checked against the ritual records, I fear it misses the mark. Again you set a false qilin head on the horses; the thing does not follow antiquity — it can hardly be allowed. 」In the Jianwu era, Emperor Ming abolished the double canopy and similar additions.
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金輅。 制度校飾如玉輅，而稍減少，亦以金塗。
Gold chariot. Its fittings followed the jade chariot’s pattern, somewhat pared back, and were gilt throughout.
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象輅。 如金輅而制飾又減。
Ivory chariot. Like the gold chariot, with still plainer regulated trim.
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木輅。 制飾如象輅而尤減。
Wood chariot. Regulated trim like the ivory chariot’s, reduced yet further.
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革輅，如大輅。 建大麾。 赤旗也。 首施火燄幡。
Leather chariot, patterned on the great chariot. It bore a great command banner. A red banner. The polehead carried a flame pennant.
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宋昇明三年，錫齊王大輅、戎輅各一。 乘黃五輅，無大輅、戎輅。 左丞王逡之議：「大輅，殷之祭車，故不登周輅之名，而《明堂位》云『大輅，殷輅也』。 注云『大輅，木輅也』。 《月令》『中央土，乘大輅』。 注云『殷輅也』。 《禮器》『大輅繁纓一就』。 注云『大輅，殷之祭天車也』。 《周禮》五路，玉路、金路、象路、革路、木路。 則周之木輅，殷之大路也。 周革路建大白，以卽戎，此則戎路也。 意謂國之大事，在祀與戎，故錫以殷祭天之車，與周之卽戎之路。 祀則以殷，戎必以周者，明郊天義遠，建前代之禮，卽戎事近，故以今世之制。 《明堂位》云『魯君孟春乘大路，載十有二旒日月之章，祀帝于郊』。 天必以大輅以錫諸侯，良有以也。 今木路，卽大路也。」 太尉左長史王儉議，宜用金輅九旒。 時乘黃無副，借用五輅，大朝臨軒，權列三輅。
In Song Shengming 3 the court bestowed on the King of Qi one great chariot and one war chariot. The Director of Carriages’ five chariots included no great chariot or war chariot. Left Assistant Grandee Wang Xunzhi argued: 「The great chariot was Yin’s sacrificial carriage, which is why it is absent from the Zhou chariot roster—yet the Hall of Brightness states, 『The great chariot is the Yin chariot.』 The commentary reads: 『The great chariot is the wood chariot.』 The Monthly Ordinances: 『At the center, earth—ride the great chariot.』 The commentary: 『The Yin chariot.』 Ritual Vessels: 『The great chariot—plaited tassels in one set.』 The commentary: 『The great chariot is Yin’s carriage for sacrificing to Heaven.』 The Rites of Zhou names five paths: jade, gold, ivory, leather, and wood. Zhou’s wood chariot, then, is Yin’s great chariot. Zhou’s leather path raises the great white standard for war—this is the war path. The point is that a state’s weightiest business is sacrifice and war—hence the grant of Yin’s Heaven-sacrificing carriage together with Zhou’s war chariot. Sacrifice follows Yin; war must follow Zhou—because suburban Heaven worship looks far back and installs an earlier dynasty’s rite, whereas military affairs are immediate and call for the current house’s forms. The Hall of Brightness says: 『In mid-spring the lord of Lu rides the great road chariot, with twelve sun-and-moon streamers, and sacrifices to the Thearch in the suburbs.』 That Heaven should bestow the great chariot on feudal lords is entirely reasonable. Today’s wood path is precisely that great road chariot. 」Grand Marshal’s left chief clerk Wang Jian proposed the gold chariot with nine streamers. The Director of Carriages then had no deputy, so the five chariots were borrowed; at great court before the throne hall three chariots were set out provisionally.
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玉、金輅，建碧旂。 象、木輅，建赤旂。 永明初，太子步兵校尉伏曼容議，以爲「齊德尚青，五路五牛及五色幡旗，竝宜以先青爲次。 軍容戎事之所乘，犧牲繭握之所薦，竝宜悉依尚色。 三代服色，以姓音爲尚，漢不識音，故還尚其行運之色。 今旣無善律，則大齊所尚，亦宜依漢道。 若有善吹律者，便應還取姓尚」。 太子僕周顒議：「三代姓音，古無前記，裁音配尚，起自曼容。 則是曼容善識姓聲，不復方假吹律。 何故能識遠代之宮商，而更迷皇朝之律呂，而云當今無知吹律以定所尚，宜附漢以從闕邪？ 皇朝本以行運爲所尚，非關不定於音氏。 如此，設有善律之知音，不宜遵聲以爲尚。」 散騎常侍劉朗之等十五人竝議駮之，事不行。
The jade and gold chariots bore jade-green banners. The ivory and wood chariots bore red banners. Early in Yongming, Palace Infantry Commandant Fu Manrong argued: 「Qi’s virtue esteems green—the five paths, five oxen, and five-colored pennants and banners should all rank green first. Whatever war chariots and martial display require, and whatever victims and cocooned silk offerings demand, should all conform to the honored color. The Three Dynasties set dress color by clan pitch-tone; Han lacked that science and fell back on the color of the reign’s element. With no master of the pitch tubes today, Great Qi’s honored color should likewise follow Han practice. Were a true pitch-tube master found, clan pitch could govern color once more.」 Crown Prince’s Steward Zhou Yong replied: 「No ancient record fixes the Three Dynasties’ clan pitch; pairing pitch to honored color starts with Manrong alone. If so, Manrong already knows clan tones by ear and need not invoke pitch tubes at all. How can he discern the gong and shang of distant antiquity yet fumble our court’s pitch standards—and claim that because no one today can blow the tubes to fix the honored color, we should cling to Han out of convenience? Our house has always honored the reign’s element, not failed to settle color by clan pitch. Even with a pitch-master who truly knew sound, tone should not dictate the honored color. 」Liu Langzhi, Regular Attendant-in-Ordinary, and fourteen others jointly rebutted the proposal; it was not adopted.
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皇太子象輅。 校飾如御，旂九旒降龍。
Crown Prince’s ivory chariot. Trim like the emperor’s carriage; a nine-streamer banner with descending dragons.
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皇太后皇后重翟車，金塗校具，白地人馬錦帖，廂隱膝後戶，白牙的帖，金塗面釘，漆畫輪，鐵鐺，金塗縱容後路輠，師子轄，抗檐皆施金塗螭頭及神龍雀等諸飾。 軛衡上施金博山，又有金塗長角巴首。 蓋，金塗，爪支子花二十八，青油俠碧絹黃絞蓋，漆布裏。 紫顏芚，黃絞紫絞隨陰，碧毛。 外上施絳紫系絡。 碧旂九旒，棨戟。 宋元嘉《東宮儀記》云中宮僕御重翟金根車，未詳得稱爲金根也。
The Empress Dowager and Empress rode a heavy-di carriage with gilt fittings, brocade human and horse figures on a white ground, side panels with hidden knee screens and rear doors, white ivory appliqué, gilt face studs, lacquered wheels, iron hub caps, gilt rear axle housings, lion-shaped axle caps, and gilt chi-dragon heads, spirit dragon-sparrows, and the like on every crossbeam and canopy strut. The yoke and pole crossbar bore a gilt Mount Bo and gilt long-horned ba heads. The canopy was gilt with twenty-eight claw-and-branch flowers, lined in green oil, layered jade-green silk and yellow brocade, with a lacquered-cloth interior. Purple-faced chen mats; yellow and purple brocade by light and shade; green feather trim. Crimson-purple cord netting hung above the exterior. A jade-green nine-streamer banner and halberd-standards. Song’s Yuanjia Eastern Palace Protocols mention the palace steward’s heavy-di golden-root carriage—whether it truly merited the name “golden-root” is unclear.
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皇太子妃厭翟車。 如重翟，飾微減。
The crown prince's consort rode the Yan Di carriage. It matched the heavy Yan Di carriage, with ornament somewhat reduced.
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指南車。 四周廂上施屋，指南人衣裙襦天衣，在廂中。 上四角皆施龍子竿，縣雜色真孔雀毦，烏布皁復幔，漆畫輪，駕牛，皆銅校飾。
South-pointing carriage. A roofed structure rose on every side of the compartment, with a south-pointing figure in skirt, robe, jacket, and celestial-pattern garment standing inside. Dragon-child poles stood at all four upper corners, suspending multicolored genuine peacock plumes; black cloth and a black inner curtain; lacquer-painted wheels; ox-drawn; all fittings were bronze.
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記里鼓車。 制如指南，上施華蓋子，衣漆畫，鼓機皆在內。
Mile-drum carriage. Built like the south-pointing carriage, it bore a flowered canopy on top, lacquer-painted, with the drum mechanism housed entirely within.
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輦車，如犢車，竹蓬。 廂外鑿鏤金薄，碧紗衣，織成芚，錦衣。 廂裏及仰頂隱膝後戶，金塗鏤面，瑇瑁帖，金塗松精，登仙花紐，綠四緣，四望紗萌子，上下前後眉，鏤鍱。 轅枕長角龍，白牙蘭，瑇瑁金塗校飾。 漆鄣塵板在蘭前，金銀花獸玃天龍師子鏤面，榆花鈿指子摩尼炎，金龍虎。 扶轅，銀口帶，龍板頭。 龍轅軛上，金鳳皇鈴璅，銀口帶，星後梢，瑇瑁帖，金塗香沓，銀星花獸幔竿杖，金塗龍牽，縱橫長，背花香染兆牀副。 自輦以下，二宮御車，皆綠油幢，絳系絡。 御所乘，雙棟。 其公主則碧油幢云。 《司馬法》曰「夏后氏輦曰金車，殷曰胡奴車，周曰輜車」，皆輦也。 《漢書叔孫通傳》云「皇帝輦出房」，成帝輦過後宮，此朝宴竝用也。 《輿服志》云「輦車具金銀丹青采雘雕畫蒲陶之文，乘人以行」。 信陽侯陰就見井丹，左右人進輦，是爲臣下亦得乘之。 晉武帝給安平獻王孚雲母輦。 晉中朝又有香衣輦，江左唯御所乘。
The palanquin carriage resembled a calf cart, with a bamboo awning. Outside the compartment were carved openwork gold leaf, green gauze garments, woven matting, and brocade clothing. Inside the compartment and on the upward-facing roof were the hidden knee and rear door, gilt openwork facing, tortoiseshell appliqué, gilt pine essence, ascending-immortal flower clasps, green four-border trim, a four-view gauze awning, brows front and back above and below, and openwork plaques. The shaft pillow bore a long-horned dragon, white ivory orchid, and tortoiseshell with gilt fittings. Before the orchid stood a lacquer dust-screen board with openwork facing of gold and silver floral beasts, a heaven-reaching dragon, and lions; elm-flower inlay, finger-guards, mani flame, and gold dragon and tiger. Shaft supports, silver mouth-bands, and dragon board heads. On the dragon shaft yoke were gilt phoenix bells and links, silver mouth-bands, star rear tips, tortoiseshell appliqué, gilt fragrant tread, silver star floral beast curtain-pole staffs, gilt dragon draws, lengthwise and crosswise long pieces, and a back floral incense-dyed omen-bed adjunct. From the palanquin carriage downward, imperial carriages of the two palaces all bore green oil canopies and crimson cord netting. The sovereign's carriage had double ridgepoles. Princesses, it is said, used the blue-green oil canopy. The Methods of Sima says: "Under the Xia the palanquin was called the Golden Carriage; under Yin the Barbarian-Servant Carriage; under Zhou the Supply Carriage"—all names for the palanquin. The Biography of Shusun Tong in the Book of Han says, "When the emperor's palanquin left the side chamber"; Emperor Cheng's palanquin passed through the rear palaces—court and banquet alike employed it. The Treatise on Carriages and Dress says: "The palanquin carriage bore gold, silver, cinnabar, green, and polychrome carving with painted grapevine designs; bearers carried it forward." When Marquis Yin of Xinyang went to see Jing Dan, his attendants brought a palanquin—showing that even subjects might ride it. Emperor Wu of Jin granted Prince Xian of Anping, Sima Fu, a mica palanquin. The Jin central court also had an incense-garment palanquin; east of the Yangtze only the sovereign rode it.
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卧輦。 校飾如坐輦，不甚服用。
Reclining palanquin. Its fittings matched the seated palanquin; it was little used.
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漆畫輪車，金塗校飾如輦，微有減降。 金塗鐺，縱容後輠師子副也。 御爲羣公舉哀臨哭所乘。 皇后太子妃亦乘之。
A lacquer-painted wheel carriage with gilt fittings like the palanquin, but somewhat reduced. Gilt hub-bands, with longitudinal adjuster, rear adjuster, and lion adjunct. The sovereign rode it when leading mourning and weeping for the assembled lords. The empress and the crown prince's consort rode it as well.
19
漆畫牽車，小形如輿車，金塗縱容後路師子輠，鐵鐺，錦衣。 廂裏隱膝後戶牙蘭，轅枕梢，幰竿戍棟樑，皆金塗校飾。 御及皇太子所乘，卽古之羊車也。 晉泰始中，中護軍羊琇乘羊車，爲司隷校尉劉毅所奏。 武帝詔曰：「羊車雖無制，非素者所服，免官。」 《衞玠傳》云：「總角乘羊車，市人聚觀。」 今不駕羊，猶呼牽此車者爲羊車云。
The lacquer-painted draw carriage was small, shaped like the litter carriage, with gilt longitudinal adjuster, rear road, and lion adjuster, iron hub-bands, and brocade clothing. Inside were the hidden knee and rear door, ivory orchid, shaft-pillow tip, and curtain pole and garrison ridgebeam, all with gilt fittings. What the sovereign and crown prince rode was the ancient goat carriage. In Jin Taishi, Central Protector of the Army Yang Xiu rode a goat carriage and was impeached by Director of the Imperial Secretariat Liu Yi. Emperor Wu's edict said: "Although the goat carriage has no fixed regulation, it is not for those of plain station—dismiss him from office." The Biography of Wei Jie says: "In his boyhood he rode a goat carriage, and townspeople gathered to watch." Today goats are no longer yoked, yet carriages drawn in this fashion are still called goat carriages.
20
輿車，形如軺車，柒畫，金校飾，錦衣。 兩廂後戶隱膝牙蘭，皆瑇瑁帖，刀格，鏤面花釘。 幰竿成校棟樑，下施八棡，金塗沓，兆牀副。 人舉之。 一曰小輿，小行幸乘之。 皇太子亦得於宮內乘之。
The litter carriage was shaped like a light carriage, lacquer-painted, with gilt fittings and brocade clothing. On both compartments, the rear door, hidden knee, and ivory orchid all bore tortoiseshell appliqué, blade lattices, and openwork facing with floral nails. The curtain pole formed a fitted ridgebeam; below were eight corner braces, gilt tread, and an omen-bed adjunct. Bearers lifted it. Also called the small litter, it served for minor progressions of the sovereign. The crown prince might also ride it within the palace.
21
衣書十二乘，澬榆轂輪，箕子壁，綠油衣，廂外綠紗萌，油幢絡，通幰，竿刺代棟樑，柮檽真形龍牽，支子花。 轅後伏神抗、承泥、沓，金塗校具。 古副車之象也。 今亦曰五時副車。
There were twelve book-and-robe carriages with elm hubs and wheels, matting compartment walls, green oil clothing, green gauze awnings outside the compartment, oil-canopy netting, full curtains, poles piercing substitute ridgebeams, hardwood true-form dragon draws, and branch-flowers. Behind the shaft were the crouching-spirit strut, mud-bearer, and tread, all gilt fittings. This preserved the form of the ancient outrider carriage. Today it is also called the five-season outrider carriage.
22
青萌車，是謂潝幔車。
Green Awning carriage—called the steep-curtain carriage.
23
油絡畫安車，公主、王妃、三公特進夫人所乘。 漢制，皇后貴人紫罽軿車。 晉皇后乘雲母油畫安車，駕六，以兩轅安車駕五爲副。 公主畫安車駕六，以兩轅安車駕三爲副。 公主畫安車駕三，三夫人青交絡安車駕三，皆以紫絳罽軿車駕三爲副。 九嬪世婦軿車駕二，王公妃特進夫人皁交絡爲副。 漢賤軺車而貴軿車，晉賤輜軿而貴軺車，皆行禮所乘。
The secure carriage with oil netting and painted design was for princesses, princess consorts, and ladies of grandees of the three ranks and specially advanced rank. Under Han regulations, the empress and honored consorts rode purple felt light carriages. Under Jin the empress rode a mica oil-painted secure carriage with six horses; a two-shaft secure carriage drawn by five served as outrider. Princesses used painted comfort carriages with teams of six, escorted by two-shaft comfort carriages with teams of three. Princesses rode painted comfort carriages with three horses; the three Ladies rode green interlaced comfort carriages with three horses—each rank was escorted by a purple-crimson felt enclosed carriage with three horses. The nine concubines and palace ladies rode enclosed carriages with two horses; princes' consorts and specially advanced ladies were escorted by black interlaced carriages. Han ceremony favored enclosed carriages over light chariots; Jin reversed that, favoring light chariots over supply and enclosed types—all were ritual travel vehicles.
24
黃屋車，建碧旂九旒，九旒，鸞輅也。 《漢輿服志》云：「金根車，蓋黃繒爲裏，謂之黃屋。」 今金、玉輅皆以黃地錦，唯此車以黃繒。 皆金塗校具，黃隱隨陰，青毛羽，二十八爪支子花，絳系絡。 九命上公所乘。
The Yellow Canopy carriage bore a green banner with nine tassels—the nine-tassel standard of the phoenix regalia carriage. The Book of Han, Carriages and Dress, records: 「The Golden Root carriage has a canopy lined with yellow silk, and is called the Yellow Canopy. 」Today the gold and jade regalia chariots all use yellow-ground brocade; only this carriage still uses yellow silk. All fittings were gold-plated, with yellow shade ornaments, green feather plumes, twenty-eight-claw branch-flower motifs, and crimson cord networks. It was ridden by upper dukes of the nine commands.
25
青蓋安車，朱轓漆班輪，駕一，左右騑，通幰車爲副，諸王禮行所乘。 凡車有轓者謂之軒。 皁蓋安車，朱轓漆班輪，駕一，通幰牛車爲副，三公禮行所乘。
The green-canopy comfort carriage had vermilion skirt boards and lacquered spotted wheels, a single team with flanking outriders, and a full-canopy escort carriage—used by princes on ritual journeys. Any carriage with skirt boards was called a high carriage. The black-canopy comfort carriage had vermilion skirt boards and lacquered spotted wheels, a single team, and a full-canopy ox cart as escort—used by the three excellencies on ritual journeys.
26
安車，黑耳皁蓋馬車，朱轓，駕一，牛車爲副，國公列侯禮行所乘。
The comfort carriage was a black-eared, black-canopy horse carriage with vermilion skirt boards, one team, and an ox cart as escort—used by state dukes and marquises on ritual journeys.
27
馬車，駕一，九卿、領、護、二衞、驍游、四軍、五校從郊陵所乘。 晉制，三公下至九卿，又各安車黑耳一乘，公駕三，特進駕二，卿駕一，復各軺車施黑耳後戶皁輪一乘。
The horse carriage, with one team, was used by the nine ministers, bureau chiefs, the two guards, swift and roaming units, the four armies, and the five regiments when attending suburban rites and imperial tombs. Under Jin rules, from the three excellencies down to the nine ministers each kept a black-eared comfort carriage—three horses for dukes, two for specially advanced officers, one for ministers—and each also had a light chariot with black ears, a rear door, and black wheels.
28
油絡軺車，尚書令、僕射、中書監、令、尚書、侍中、常侍、中黃門、中書、散騎侍郎，皆駕一牛，朝直所乘。 晉制，尚書令施黑耳後戶皁輪，僕射、中書監、令直施後戶皁輪，尚書無後戶，皆漆輪轂，今猶然。
The oil-network light chariot was drawn by a single ox for the director and vice directors of the masters of writing, secretariat directors and masters, palace and regular attendants, palace eunuchs, secretariat aides, and attendant cavalry aides on morning court duty. Under Jin rules the director of the masters of writing had black ears, a rear door, and black wheels; vice directors and secretariat directors had a rear door and black wheels; masters of writing had no rear door—all with lacquered hubs, as still observed.
29
安車，赤屏，駕一，又軺車，施後戶，爲副，太子二傅禮行所乘。
The crown prince's two tutors used a comfort carriage with a red screen and one team, escorted by a light chariot with a rear door, on ritual journeys.
30
四望車，通幰，油幢絡，班柒輪轂。 亦曰皁輪，以加禮貴臣。 晉武詔給魏舒陽燧四望小車。
The four-view carriage had a full canopy, an oil-treated banner network, and lacquered spotted wheel hubs. It was also called the black-wheeled carriage, reserved for ministers granted added ritual honors. Emperor Wu of Jin by edict granted Wei Shu a yangsui mirror and a small four-view carriage.
31
三望車，制度如四望。 或謂之夾望，亦以加禮貴臣。 次四望。
The three-view carriage followed the same regulations as the four-view. Some called it the paired-view carriage; it too was for ministers granted added ritual honors. It ranked below the four-view.
32
油幢絡車，制似三望而減。 王公加禮者之常乘，次三望。
The oil-banner network carriage was built like the three-view but with reduced ornament. Princes and dukes granted added honors used it as their regular carriage; it ranked below the three-view.
33
平乘車，竹箕子壁仰，榆爲輪，通幰竿刺代棟樑，柮檽真形龍牽，金塗支子花紐，轅頭後梢沓伏神承泥。 庶人亦然，但不通幰。 三公諸王所乘。 自四望至平乘，皆銅校飾。
The level-riding carriage had bamboo mat walls and upward-facing boards, elm wheels, a full-canopy pole piercing the substitute ridge beam, true-form dragon traces in catalpa and chestnut, gold-plated branch-flower clasps, and dragon traces at the yoke head and rear tip with stacked spirit figures and mud-bearers at the shaft foot. Commoners used the same type, but without the full canopy. It was ridden by the three excellencies and princes. From the four-view down to the level-riding, all fittings were copper-plated.
34
轀輬車。 四輪，飾如金根。 四角龍首，施組銜璧，垂五采，析羽葆流蘇，前後雲氣錯畫帷裳，以素爲池而黼黻。 駕四白駱馬，太僕執轡。 貴臣薨，亦如之，羽飾駕御，微有減降。
Hearse carriage. It had four wheels and ornament like the Golden Root carriage. Dragon heads stood at the four corners, with cords bearing jade disks, five-colored hangings, split feather canopies and tassels, and cloud patterns painted on the curtains front and back over a plain ground with fu and fu motifs. Four white camels drew it while the Grandee of Horse held the reins. When an honored minister died, the same carriage was used, with feather ornament and teams slightly reduced.
35
《虞書》曰：「予欲觀古人之象，日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲作繢，宗彝、藻、火、粉米、黼、黻絺繡，以五采章施于五色。」 天子服備日、月以下，公山、龍以下，侯伯華蟲以下，子男藻、火以下，卿大夫粉米以下。 天子六冕，王后六服，著在周官。 公侯以下，咸有名則，佩玉組綬，竝具禮文，後代沿革，見《漢志晉服制令》，其冠十三品，見蔡邕《獨斷》，竝不復具詳。 宋明帝泰始四年，更制五輅，議脩五冕，朝會饗獵，各有所服，事見《宋注》。 舊相承三公以下冕七旒，青玉珠，卿大夫以下五旒，黑玉珠。 永明六年，太常丞何諲之議，案《周禮》命數，改三公八旒，卿六旒。 尚書令王儉議，依漢三公服，山、龍九章，卿華蟲七章。 從之。
The Book of Yu says: 「I wish to view the images of antiquity—sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, and patterned creatures embroidered; ancestral vessels, algae, fire, rice powder, fu and fu in fine silk, with the five colors displayed on the five hues. 」The Son of Heaven's robes bore the sun and moon and all below them; a duke bore mountains and dragons and below; a marquis or earl bore patterned creatures and below; a viscount or baron bore algae and fire and below; ministers and grandees bore rice powder and below. The Son of Heaven had six crowns and the empress six garments, as set forth in the Offices of Zhou. Below duke and marquis every rank had named rules for jade pendants and cord sashes, all spelled out in ritual texts; later changes appear in the Han Treatise and Jin dress regulations, and the thirteen crown grades in Cai Yong's Duduan—not repeated here. In the fourth year of Taishi, Emperor Ming of Song revised the five regalia chariots and debated restoring the five crowns; court assembly, feasts, and hunts each had its own dress, as recorded in the Song commentaries. By long practice, ranks below the three excellencies wore crowns of seven tassels with blue jade beads; ministers and grandees wore five tassels with black jade beads. In the sixth year of Yongming, Director of Rites Assistant He Yin-zhi proposed, on the Zhou Rites rank scheme, to raise the three excellencies to eight tassels and ministers to six. Director of the Masters of Writing Wang Jian proposed following Han practice: nine sections of mountains and dragons for the three excellencies, seven sections of patterned creatures for ministers. The court adopted it.
36
平冕黑介幘，今謂平天冠。 皁表朱緣裏，廣七尺，長尺二寸，垂珠十二旒，以朱組爲纓，如其綬色。 衣皁上絳下，裳前三幅，後四幅。 衣畫而裳繡，爲日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲、藻、火、粉米、黼、黻十二章。 素帶廣四寸，朱裏，以朱綠裨飾其側，要中以朱，垂以綠，垂三尺。 中衣，以絳緣其領袖，赤皮韍，絳袴袜，赤舄，郊廟臨朝所服也。 漢世冕用白玉珠爲旒。 魏明帝好婦人飾，改以珊瑚珠。 晉初仍舊，後乃改。 江左以美玉難得，遂用琫珠，世謂之白琁珠。
The flat crown with black jie cap is today called the flat heaven crown. It had a black exterior with vermilion border and lining, seven chi wide and one chi two cun long, with twelve hanging pearl tassels; vermilion cords served as the chin strap, matching the sash color. The robe was black above and crimson below; the skirt had three panels in front and four behind. The robe was painted and the skirt embroidered with the twelve insignia—sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, patterned creatures, algae, fire, rice powder, fu, and fu. The plain belt was four cun wide with vermilion lining, vermilion-green trim at the sides, vermilion at the center, and green pendants three chi long. The inner robe had crimson at collar and sleeves, with red leather knee covers, crimson trousers and socks, and red shoes—worn at suburban temples and when holding court audience. Under the Han, coronets hung white jade beads as tassels. Emperor Ming of Wei, taken with women's finery, replaced them with coral beads. Early Jin kept the old way; only later did the court change it again. South of the Yangtze fine jade grew scarce, and peng beads stood in—known as white xuan beads.
37
袞衣，漢世出陳留襄邑所織。 宋末用繡及織成，建武中，明帝以織成重，乃采畫爲之，加飾金銀薄，世亦謂爲天衣。
The sacrificial robe under the Han was woven at Xiangyi in Chenliu. Late Song favored embroidery and woven brocade; in the Jianwu years Ming Di judged brocade too heavy and had the robe painted instead, edged with gold and silver foil—also called heavenly garments.
38
史臣曰：黼黻之設，經緯爲用，故五色六章十二衣還相爲質也。 歷代龍袞，織以成文，今體不勝衣，變易舊法，豈致美黻冕之謂乎！
The historian writes: Fu and fu depend on warp and weft—five colors, six patterns, twelve garments taking turns as the ground. Age after age, dragon robes were woven into their patterns; now the cut cannot carry the cloth, and the old law is bent—can this be the beauty fu crowns were meant to hold?
39
通天冠，黑介幘，金博山顏，絳紗袍，皁緣中衣，乘輿常朝所服。 舊用駮犀簪導，東昏改用玉。 其朝服，臣下皆同。
Penetrating-Heaven crown, black jie cap, golden Mount Bo brow, crimson gauze robe, black-bordered inner robe—what the emperor wore at ordinary court when riding the imperial carriage. Once mottled rhinoceros horn hairpins guided the cap; Donghun switched them to jade. For court dress, ministers and subordinates dressed the same.
40
黑介幘，單衣，無定色，乘輿拜陵所服。 其白帢單衣，謂之素服，以舉哀臨喪。
Black jie cap and a single-layer robe of no fixed hue—worn when the emperor rode out to bow at the tombs. A white headcloth with a single-layer robe was called plain dress, for leading mourning at a funeral.
41
遠游冠，太子諸王所冠。 太子朱纓，翠羽緌珠節。 諸王玄纓，公侯皆同。
The Far-Travel crown was worn by the crown prince and by princes. The crown prince wore a vermilion tassel, kingfisher-feather cord, and knotted pearls. Princes wore a dark tassel; dukes and marquises did likewise.
42
平冕，各以組爲纓，王公八旒，衣山、龍九章，卿七旒，衣華蟲七章，竝助祭所服。 皆畫皂絳繒爲之。
The flat crown: each rank had cord for a tassel—princes and dukes eight tassels, robes of mountains and dragons in nine sections; ministers seven tassels, robes of patterned creatures in seven sections—all for assisting at sacrifice. All were made from black and crimson silk, painted.
43
進賢冠，諸開國公、侯，鄉、亭侯，卿，大夫，尚書，關內侯，二千石，博士，中書郎，丞、郎，祕書監、丞、郎，太子中舍人、洗馬、舍人，諸府長史，卿，尹、丞，下至六百石令長小吏，以三梁、二梁、一梁爲差，事見《晉令》。
The Advance-the-Worthy crown: founding dukes and marquises, village and precinct marquises, ministers, grandees, masters of writing, interior marquises, 2000-shi officers, erudites, secretariat aides, secretariat directors and aides, crown-prince attendants, tutors, and stewards, prefectural chiefs and aides, down to 600-shi magistrates and petty clerks—all distinguished by three beams, two beams, or one beam, as the Jin regulations record.
44
武冠，侍臣加貂蟬，餘軍校武職、黃門、散騎、太子中庶子、二率、朝散、都尉，皆冠之。 唯武騎虎賁服文衣，插雉尾於武冠上。
The military crown: court attendants added marten and cicada; military officers, gate eunuchs, attendant cavalry, crown-prince aides, the two guards, roaming attendants, and commandants all wore it. Only the martial riders and tiger guards wore patterned robes and set pheasant tails in the military crown.
45
史臣曰：應劭《漢官》釋附蟬，及司馬彪志竝不見侍中與常侍有異，唯言左右珥貂而已。 案項氏說云「漢侍中蟬，刻爲蟬像，常侍但爲璫而不蟬」，未詳何代所改也。
The historian writes: Ying Shao's Explanation of Han Offices glosses the attached cicada, and Sima Biao's treatise likewise finds no difference between palace attendant and regular attendant—only that left and right wore marten at the ears. Xiang's note says: "Han palace attendants wore a cicada carved as a cicada; regular attendants had only the ring, no cicada"—which age altered that is not known.
46
法冠，廷尉等諸執法者冠之。
The law crown was worn by the director of justice and other law officers.
47
高山冠，謁者冠之。
The High Mountain crown was worn by ushers.
48
樊噲冠，殿門衞士冠之。
The Fan Kuai crown was worn by palace gate guards.
49
黑介幘冠，文冠； 平幘冠，武冠。 尚書令、僕射、尚書納言幘，後飾爲異。
The black jie-cap crown was for civil officials; the flat-cap crown for military officers. Directors and vice directors of the masters of writing, and masters of writing who received edicts—their caps later differed in ornament.
50
童子空頂幘，施假髻，貴賤同服。
Boys wore hollow-top caps with false topknots; high and low dressed the same.
51
救日蝕，文武官皆免冠，著赤介幘對朝服。 赤幘，示威武也。
When rites answered a solar eclipse, civil and military officials all laid aside their crowns and wore red jie caps over court dress. The red cap showed martial resolve.
52
袴褶，車駕親戎、中外纂嚴所服。 黑冠，帽綴紫褾，以絡帶代鞶帶。 中官紫褾，外官絳褾。 其纂嚴戎服不綴褾，行留悉同。 校獵巡幸，從官戎服革帶鞶帶，文官不纓，武官脫冠。
Trousers and jacket—worn when the emperor took the field in person, or when court and camp mustered in full martial array. Black crown with a purple cap-band, a cord belt standing in for the leather girdle. Inner officials wore purple bands; outer officials wore crimson bands. Under strict assembly alert, military dress had no border trim; on the march or at rest, the rule was the same. On hunt-inspection tours and imperial progresses, attendants wore military dress with leather belt and plaque girdle; civil officials went without cap cords; military officials removed their caps.
53
袿大衣，謂之褘衣，皇后謁廟所服。 公主會見大首髻，其燕服則施嚴雜寶爲佩瑞。 袿用繡爲衣，裳加五色，鏁金銀校飾。
The gui great robe—called the hui robe—was the empress's dress for attending the ancestral temple. Princesses at audiences wore the great topknot crown; in informal dress they wore splendid mixed jewels as pendant regalia. Gui robes had embroidered upper garments and five-colored skirts, with locked gold-and-silver trim.
54
綬，乘輿黃赤綬，黃赤縹綠紺五采。 太子朱綬，諸王纁朱綬，皆赤黃縹紺四采。 妃亦同。 相國綠綟綬，三采，綠紫紺。 郡公玄朱，侯伯青朱，子男素朱，皆三采。 公世子紫，侯世子青，鄉、亭、關內侯墨綬，皆二采。 郡國太守、內史青，尚書令、僕、中書監、令、祕書監皆黑，丞皆黃，諸府丞亦黃。 皇后與乘輿同赤，貴嬪、夫人、貴人紫，王太妃、長公主、封君亦紫綬，六宮青綬，青白紅，郡公、侯夫人青綬。
Cord sashes: the imperial equipage used yellow-crimson—five colors of yellow, crimson, light blue, green, and dark blue. The crown prince wore a vermilion sash; princes wore tawny-crimson—each in four colors of crimson, yellow, light blue, and dark blue. Imperial consorts followed the same rule. The chancellor of state wore a green patterned sash in three colors—green, purple, and dark blue. Commandery dukes black-crimson; marquises and earls blue-crimson; viscounts and barons plain crimson—all three-colored sashes. Ducal heirs purple; marquis heirs blue; township, precinct, and within-the-passes marquises black—all two-colored sashes. Commandery and principality administrators and inner administrators wore blue; directors and vice directors of the masters of writing, secretariat directors and commissioners, and the archive director wore black; all assistants wore yellow, as did bureau assistants throughout. The empress matched the sovereign in crimson; honored consorts, ladies, and honored ladies wore purple; princes' grand consorts, chief princesses, and enfeoffed ladies also purple sashes; the six palaces green—green, white, and red; commandery dukes' and marquises' consorts green sashes.
55
乘輿傳國璽，秦璽也。 晉中原亂沒胡，江左初無之，北方人呼晉家爲「白板天子」。 冉閔敗，璽還南。 別有行信等六璽，皆金爲之，亦秦、漢之制也。 皇后金璽，太子諸王金璽，皆龜鈕。 公侯五等金章，公世子金印，侯銀印，貴嬪、夫人金章，公主、王太妃、封君金印，六宮以下公侯太夫人夫人銀印。 其公、將軍金章，光祿大夫、卿、尹、太子傅、諸領護將軍、中郎將、校尉、郡國太守內史、四品五品將軍，皆銀章，尚書令、僕、中書監、令、祕書監丞、太子二率、諸府長史、卿、尹、丞、尉、中丞、都水使者、諸州刺史，皆銅印。
The sovereign's Heirloom Seal of the realm was the Qin dynasty seal. When the Jin central plains fell into chaos the seal was lost to the barbarians; the south at first had none, and northerners called the Jin court the "blank-board Son of Heaven." After Ran Min's defeat, the seal returned to the south. There were also six seals, including the Traveling Credence, all of gold—the same Qin and Han system. The empress's gold seal and the gold seals of the crown prince and princes all bore tortoise knobs. Dukes and marquises of the five grades wore gold seals; ducal heirs gold seals; marquis heirs silver; honored consorts and ladies gold; princesses, princes' grand consorts, and enfeoffed ladies gold; below the six palaces, grand consorts of dukes and marquises and their ladies silver. Dukes and generals had gold seals; the household minister, ministers, chief administrators, crown prince tutors, command and protect generals, palace gentlemen-commandants, commandants, commandery and principality administrators and inner administrators, and fourth- and fifth-rank generals had silver; directors and vice directors of the masters of writing, secretariat directors and commissioners, archive director and aides, the crown prince's two commandants, bureau chief clerks, ministers, chief administrators, assistants, commandants, imperial censors, directors of waterways, and provincial governors had bronze.
56
三臺五省二品文官，皆簪白筆。 王公五等及武官不簪，加內侍乃簪。
Second-rank civil officials of the Three Departments and Five Ministries all wore white writing brushes in their hair. Princes of the five grades and martial officials did not wear them; only when also serving as palace attendants did they do so.
57
百官執手板，尚書令、僕、尚書，手板頭復有白筆，以紫皮裹之，名曰「笏」。 漢末仲長統謂百司皆宜執之。 其肩上紫袷囊，名曰「契囊」，世呼爲「紫荷」。
All officials carried hand tablets; directors and vice directors of the masters of writing and masters of writing had white brushes at the tablet head wrapped in purple leather—called hu. Late in Han, Zhongchang Tong argued that every office should carry them. The purple overlapping shoulder pouch was called a qie pouch; common speech named it the "purple lotus."
58
佩玉，自乘輿以下，與晉、宋制同。 建元四年，制王公侯卿尹珠水精，其餘用牙蜯。 太官宰人服離支衣，後定。
Jade pendants, from the sovereign down, followed Jin and Song regulations. In the fourth year of Jianyuan it was ordered that princes, marquises, ministers, and chief administrators use pearl and rock crystal; all others ivory and tridacna. Grand Provision cooks wore lizhi-branch garments; the rule was later settled.
59
贊曰：文物煌煌，儀品穆穆。 分別禮數，莫過輿服。
In praise: regalia blaze bright; ritual forms stand grave and still. To mark ritual rank, nothing exceeds carriages and dress.
60
「漆畫牽車」注「戍棟樑」，一本「戍」作「戈」。 「輿車」注「成校棟樑」，一本「成校」作「戈杖」。 「衣書車」注「刺代棟樑」，「平乘車」注「刺代棟樑」，並疑。 [1]
On the "lacquer-painted traction carriage," the gloss reads "defense ridgebeam"; one edition reads shu as ge ("halberd"). On the "carriage vehicle," the gloss reads "completion-correction ridgebeam"; one edition reads cheng-xiao as gezhang ("halberd staff"). On the "book-and-robe carriage" and the "level-riding carriage," each gloss reads "pierce-substitute ridgebeam"—both are doubtful. [1] Endnote marker.
61
全文以中華書局、一九七二年一月版《南齊書》爲本校。
The entire text has been collated against the Zhonghua Shuju edition of the Book of Southern Qi (January 1972).