1
志七十八
Treatise Seventy-Eight
2
輿服二
Carriages and Dress, Part Two
3
皇帝冠服皇后冠服太皇太后皇太后附皇貴妃以下冠服
Imperial crown and dress; empress crown and dress; grand empress dowager and empress dowager—with imperial noble consort and below appended
4
皇子親王以下冠服皇子親王福晉以下冠服
Crown and dress for imperial sons and princes down the ranks; crown and dress for princess consorts and consorts of princes and below
5
文武官冠服命婦冠服士庶冠服
Crown and dress for civil and military officials, titled ladies, and scholars and commoners
6
崇德二年，諭諸王、貝勒曰：「昔金熙宗及金主亮廢其祖宗時冠服，改服漢人衣冠。 迨至世宗，始復舊制。 我國家以騎射為業，今若輕循漢人之俗，不親弓矢，則武備何由而習乎？ 射獵者，演武之法； 服制者，立國之經。 嗣後凡出師、田獵，許服便服，其餘悉令遵照國初定制，仍服朝衣。 並欲使後世子孫勿輕變棄祖制。」 乾隆三十七年，三通館進呈所纂嘉禮考，於遼、金、元各代冠服之制，敘載未能明晰。 奉諭：「遼、金、元衣冠，初未嘗不循其國俗，後乃改用漢、唐儀式。 其因革次第，原非出於一時。 即如金代朝祭之服，其先雖加文飾，未至盡棄其舊。 至章宗乃概為更制。 是應詳考，以徵蔑棄舊典之由。 衣冠為一代昭度，夏收殷冔，不相沿襲。 凡一朝所用，原各自有法程，所謂禮不忘其本也。 自北魏始有易服之說，至遼、金、元諸君浮慕好名，一再世輒改衣冠，盡去其純樸素風。 傳之未久，國勢浸弱。 況揆其議改者，不過雲袞冕備章，文物足觀耳。 殊不知潤色章身，即取其文，亦何必僅沿其式？ 如本朝所定朝祀之服，山龍藻火，粲然具列，皆義本禮經，而又何通天絳紗之足雲耶？」 蓋清自崇德初元，已釐定上下冠服諸制。 高宗一代，法式加詳，而猶於變本忘先，諄諄訓誡。 亦深維乎根本至計，未可輕革舊俗。 祖宗成憲具在，所宜永守勿愆也。 茲就乾隆朝增改之制，以類敘次，而仍以初定者附見於篇。
In the second year of Chongde, the throne instructed the princes and beile: "In former times Emperor Xizong of Jin and Emperor Hailing cast aside the caps and robes of their forefathers' day and adopted Han Chinese dress. Only under Emperor Shizong was the former system restored. Our dynasty was founded on horsemanship and archery; if we lightly adopt Han ways and no longer handle bow and arrow, how will martial skill be maintained? Hunting with bow and arrow is the way to train for war; dress regulations are the enduring charter of a nation. Henceforth, on campaign or in the hunt informal dress may be worn; on all other occasions everyone must follow the regulations established at the founding and wear court robes. This is also so that posterity may not lightly alter and cast aside the institutions of our ancestors." In the thirty-seventh year of Qianlong, the Santong Guan presented its compiled Examination of Auspicious Rites; its treatment of Liao, Jin, and Yuan cap-and-robe regulations lacked clarity. An edict followed: "The dress of Liao, Jin, and Yuan at first followed their own national customs; only later did they adopt Han and Tang ceremonial forms. The sequence of their reforms did not unfold all at once. Take the Jin court and sacrificial robes: at first ornament was added, but the old style was not yet wholly cast aside. Only under Emperor Zhangzong was the entire system redesigned. This should be examined in detail to show why the old canon was despised and abandoned. Caps and robes embody a dynasty's visible standard; the Xia wore summer dress and the Yin wore ceremonial caps—each did not simply inherit the last. Whatever a dynasty adopted had its own proper regulations—this is what is meant by ritual never forgetting its root. From the Northern Wei onward came proposals to change dress; the rulers of Liao, Jin, and Yuan, vain and fond of display, altered caps and robes every generation or two until their plain native style was wholly lost. Before long their states grew steadily weaker. Moreover, those who urged change cared only that the dragon robe and ceremonial cap be fully ornamented and the regalia splendid to behold. They failed to see that to adorn the body with pattern is to take its meaning—why must one copy its form alone? The court and sacrificial robes ordained by this dynasty display mountains, dragons, flame, and algae in full splendor, all grounded in the ritual classics—what need is there for the Tongtian purple gauze of antiquity?" From the first year of Chongde the Qing had already fixed regulations for caps and robes at every rank. Under the Gaozong reign the regulations grew more detailed, yet he still earnestly warned against forgetting one's origins and altering the foundation. He also weighed this as a matter of fundamental long-term policy: old custom must not be lightly reformed. The accomplished statutes of the ancestors stand complete; they should be kept forever without deviation. Here the additions and revisions of the Qianlong reign are arranged by category, with the original regulations still appended in the text.
7
皇帝朝冠，冬用薰貂，十一月朔至上元用黑狐。 上綴硃緯。 頂三層，貫東珠各一，皆承以金龍四，餘東珠如其數，上銜大珍珠一。 夏織玉草或藤竹絲為之，緣石青片金二層，里用紅片金或紅紗。 上綴硃緯，前綴金佛，飾東珠十五。 後綴舍林，飾東珠七，頂如冬制。
The emperor's court cap: in winter it is made of scented marten fur; from the first day of the eleventh month through the Lantern Festival, of black fox. Vermilion tassels are affixed at the top. The crown has three tiers, each bearing one Eastern pearl, all supported by four golden dragons with additional Eastern pearls to match; a large pearl is set on top. In summer it is woven of jade grass or rattan and bamboo fiber, edged with two layers of kingfisher-blue gilt strips, and lined with red gilt strips or red gauze. Vermilion tassels are affixed above; in front a golden Buddha ornament set with fifteen Eastern pearls. Behind is affixed a shel lin ornament with seven Eastern pearls; the crown follows the winter design.
8
吉服冠，冬用海龍、薰貂、紫貂惟其時。 上綴硃緯。 頂滿花金座，上銜大珍珠一。 夏織玉草或藤竹絲為之，紅紗綢里，石青片金緣。 上綴硃緯。 頂如冬吉服冠。
Auspicious-dress cap: in winter sea-dragon fur, scented marten, or purple marten, as the season requires. Vermilion tassels are affixed at the top. The crown has a full-flower golden mount with one large pearl set on top. In summer it is woven of jade grass or rattan and bamboo fiber, lined with red gauze silk, and edged with kingfisher-blue gilt strips. Vermilion tassels are affixed at the top. The crown follows the winter auspicious-dress design.
9
常服冠，紅絨結頂，不加梁，餘如吉服冠。
Everyday-dress cap: a red velvet knot crown without a ridge; otherwise as the auspicious-dress cap.
10
行冠，冬用黑狐或黑羊皮、青絨，餘俱如常服冠。 夏織藤竹絲為之，紅紗里緣。 上綴硃氂。 頂及梁皆黃色，前綴珍珠一。
Travel cap: in winter of black fox, black sheepskin, or blue velvet; otherwise as the everyday-dress cap. In summer woven of rattan and bamboo fiber with red gauze lining and edging. Vermilion yak-hair tassels are affixed at the top. Crown and ridge are both yellow; a single pearl is affixed in front.
11
端罩，紫貂為之。 十一月朔至上元用黑狐。 明黃緞里。 左、右垂帶各二，下廣而銳，色與里同。
Formal over-robe: made of purple marten fur. From the first day of the eleventh month through the Lantern Festival, black fox is used. Lined with bright yellow satin. On left and right, two hanging sashes each, broad at the bottom and tapering to a point, in the same color as the lining.
12
袞服，色用石青，綉五爪正面金龍四團，兩肩前後各一。 其章左日、右月，萬壽篆文，間以五色雲。 春、秋棉、袷，冬裘、夏紗惟其時。
Dragon robe: kingfisher-blue, embroidered with four roundels of five-clawed frontal golden dragons—one on each shoulder, front and back. Its emblems are the sun on the left and moon on the right, longevity characters in seal script, and five-colored clouds interspersed. In spring and autumn, cotton or lined versions; in winter fur and in summer gauze, as the season requires.
13
朝服，色用明黃，惟祀天用藍，朝日用紅，夕月用月白。 披領及袖皆石青，緣用片金，冬加海龍緣。 綉文兩肩，前、後正龍各一，腰帷行龍五，衽正龍一，襞積前、後團龍各九，裳正龍二、行龍四，披領行龍二，袖端正龍各一。 列十二章，日、月、星、辰、山、龍、華、蟲、黼黻在衣，宗彝、藻火、粉米在裳，間以五色雲。 下幅八寶平水。 十一月朔至上元，披領及裳俱表以紫貂，袖端薰貂。 綉文兩肩，前、後正龍各一，襞積行龍六。 列十二章，俱在衣，間以五色雲。
Court robe: bright yellow, except blue for sacrifices to Heaven, red for the morning sun rite, and moon-white for the evening moon rite. Collar-cape and sleeves are kingfisher-blue, edged with gilt strips; in winter sea-dragon fur is added to the borders. Embroidered on both shoulders; one frontal dragon front and back; five side-facing dragons at the waist; one frontal dragon on the lapel; nine round dragons on the pleats front and back; on the skirt two frontal and four side-facing dragons; two side-facing dragons on the collar-cape; one frontal dragon at each sleeve end. The twelve emblems are displayed: sun, moon, stars, constellations, mountains, dragons, floral emblem, insects, and fu patterns on the upper robe; ancestral vessels, flame, and rice powder on the skirt—all interspersed with five-colored clouds. The lower border bears the eight treasures and level water. From the first day of the eleventh month through the Lantern Festival, the collar-cape and skirt are faced with purple marten and the sleeve ends with scented marten. Embroidered on both shoulders; one frontal dragon front and back; six side-facing dragons on the pleats. All twelve emblems are on the upper robe, interspersed with five-colored clouds.
14
龍袍，色用明黃。 領、袖俱石青，片金緣。 綉文金龍九。 列十二章，間以五色雲。 領前後正龍各一，左、右及交襟處行龍各一，袖端正龍各一。 下幅八寶立水，襟左右開，棉、袷、紗、裘，各惟其時。
Dragon robe: bright yellow. Collar and sleeves are kingfisher-blue, edged with gilt strips. Embroidered with nine golden dragons. The twelve emblems are displayed, interspersed with five-colored clouds. One frontal dragon at the collar front and back; one side-facing dragon each at left, right, and the crossing lapel; one frontal dragon at each sleeve end. The lower border bears the eight treasures and standing water; the front opens left and right; cotton, lined, gauze, and fur versions according to season.
15
常服褂，色用石青，花文隨所御，裾左右開。
Everyday-dress jacket: kingfisher-blue, with floral pattern as worn; the hem opens left and right.
16
行褂，色用石青，長與坐齊，袖長及肘。
Travel jacket: kingfisher-blue, length to the seat when seated, sleeves to the elbow.
17
常服袍，色及花文隨所御，裾四開。 行袍同。
Everyday-dress robe: color and pattern as worn; four slits at the hem. Travel robe: the same.
18
行裳，色隨所御。 左右各一，前平，後中豐，上下斂。 橫幅石青布為之，氈、袷惟時。 冬用鹿皮或黑狐為里。
Travel skirt: color as worn. One panel on each side; flat in front, full at the center back, tapered above and below. The waistband is kingfisher-blue cloth, felt or lined as the season requires. In winter lined with deer hide or black fox.
19
雨冠之制二：冬頂崇，前檐深； 夏頂平，前檐敞。 皆明黃色，月白緞里。 氈及油綢、羽緞惟其時。
There are two styles of rain cap: in winter a high crown and deep front brim; in summer a flat crown and open front brim. Both are bright yellow, lined with moon-white satin. Of felt, oiled silk, or feather satin as the season requires.
20
雨衣之制六，皆明黃色：一，如常服褂，而長與袍稱。 自衽以下加博。 上襲重衣。 領下為襞積。 無袖。 斜帷相比，上斂，下遞豐。 兩重俱加掩襟，領及鈕約皆青色。 一，以氈及羽緞為之，月白緞里。 不襲重衣。 餘制同。 領及鈕約如衣色，油綢為之，不加里。 鈕約青色。 一，如常服褂而加領，長與袍稱。 氈羽緞為之，月白緞里。 領及鈕約如衣色。 一，如常服袍而袖端平，前施掩襠，油綢不加里。 領用青羽緞，鈕約青色。 外加袍袖如衣色。 一，如常服褂，長與坐齊。 氈、羽緞為之，月白緞里。 領及鈕約如衣色。 一，如常服袍而加領，長與坐齊。 油綢為之，不加里。 袖端平，前加掩襠，領用青羽緞，鈕約青色。
There are six styles of rain garment, all bright yellow. First: like the everyday-dress jacket, but long enough to match the robe. Below the lapel it is widened. Worn over double under-layers. Pleats fall below the collar. Sleeveless. Slanting panels joined together, narrow at the top and progressively fuller below. Both layers have overlapping front flaps; collar and fasteners are blue. Second: of felt and feather satin, lined with moon-white satin. Not worn over double under-layers. Otherwise the same design. Collar and fasteners match the garment; of oiled silk, unlined. Fasteners are blue. Third: like the everyday-dress jacket with a collar added, length matching the robe. Of felt and feather satin, lined with moon-white satin. Collar and fasteners match the garment. Fourth: like the everyday-dress robe with flat sleeve ends and an overlapping front flap; of oiled silk, unlined. Collar of blue feather satin; blue fasteners. Outer robe sleeves in the garment color are worn over it. Fifth: like the everyday-dress jacket, length to the seat when seated. Of felt and feather satin, lined with moon-white satin. Collar and fastening loops were made to match the robe's color. The first style resembled an ordinary robe with an added collar, cut to the length of a seated wearer. It was fashioned from oiled silk and left unlined. The cuffs were plain; a front panel was added; the collar was of azure feather-satin, with blue fastening loops.
21
雨裳之制二，皆明黃色：一，左右幅相交，上斂下遞博。 上前加淺帷為襞積。 兩旁綴以紐約，青色。 腰為橫幅，用石青布，兩末削為帶系之。 一，前為完幅，不加淺帷，餘制同。
Rain skirts came in two styles, both bright yellow: the first crossed its left and right panels, tapering above and widening toward the hem. A shallow pleated valance was added above the front to form gathered folds. Blue fastening loops were attached on both sides. The waist was a horizontal band of stone-blue cloth, its ends cut into ties for fastening. The second had a full front panel without the pleated valance; all other specifications were identical.
22
朝珠，用東珠一百有八，佛頭、記念、背雲、大小墜雜飾，各惟其宜，大典禮御之。 惟祀天以青金石為飾，祀地珠用蜜珀，朝日用珊瑚，夕月用綠松石，雜飾惟宜。 絛皆明黃色。
Court prayer beads comprised one hundred and eight eastern pearls, with Buddha-head, memorial, back-cloud, and large and small pendant ornaments each fitted as befitting—worn at state ceremonies. For Heaven worship lapis lazuli was used; for Earth, amber; for the morning sun rite, coral; for the evening moon rite, turquoise—other ornaments as occasion required. All cords were bright yellow.
23
朝帶之制二，皆明黃色：一，用龍文金圓版四，飾紅藍寶石或綠松石，每具銜東珠五，圍珍珠二十。 左右佩帉，淺藍及白各一，下廣而銳。 中約鏤金圓結，飾寶如版，圍珠各三十。 佩囊文綉、燧觿、刀削、結佩惟宜，絛皆明黃色，大典禮御之。 一，用龍文金方版四，其飾祀天用青金石，祀地用黃玉，朝日用珊瑚，夕月用白玉，每具銜東珠五。 佩帉及絛，惟祀天用純青，餘如圓版朝帶之制。 中約圓結如版飾，銜東珠四。 佩囊純石青，左觿、右削，並從版色。
There were two court belt styles, both bright yellow: the first bore four round gold plaques with dragon motifs, set with rubies, sapphires, or turquoise; each plaque held five eastern pearls ringed by twenty pearls. On left and right hung ribbons, one pale blue and one white, broad at the bottom and tapering to a point. The central clasp was a gilt round knot, jeweled like the plaques, each ringed with thirty pearls. Embroidered pouch, fire-striker, girdle plaque, knife and whetstone, and knotted pendants were added as suited—all on bright yellow cords—for state ceremonies. The second style used four square gold plaques with dragon motifs: lapis lazuli for Heaven rites, yellow jade for Earth, coral for the morning sun, white jade for the evening moon—each holding five eastern pearls. Ribbon and cord color followed the round-plaque belt, except that for Heaven worship pure blue was used. The central round clasp was jeweled like the plaques and bore four eastern pearls. The pouch was solid stone-blue; girdle plaque on the left, whetstone on the right—all matching the plaque ornaments.
24
吉服帶，用明黃色，鏤金版四，方圓惟便，銜珠玉雜寶各從其宜。 左右佩帉純白，下直而齊。 中約金結如版飾。 餘如朝帶制，常服帶同。
The festive belt was bright yellow with four gilt plaques, square or round as preferred, set with pearls, jades, and gems as befitting. White ribbons hung on either side, cut straight and even at the hem. The central clasp was a gold knot matching the plaque ornaments. All else followed the court-belt rules; the everyday belt was identical.
25
行帶，色用明黃，左右佩系以紅香牛皮為之，飾金花文鋄銀鐶各三。 佩帉以高麗布，視常服帶帉微闊而短，中約以香牛皮束，綴銀花文佩囊。 明黃絛，飾珊瑚。 結、削、燧、雜佩各惟其宜。 初制，皇帝冠用東珠寶石鑲頂，束金鑲玉版嵌東珠帶。 康熙二十三年，定凡大典禮祭壇廟，冠用大珍珠、東珠鑲頂，禮服用黃色、秋香色、藍色五爪、三爪龍緞。 雍正元年，定禮服用石青、明黃、大紅、月白四色緞，花樣三色，圓金龍九，龍口珠各一顆。 腰襴小團金龍九。 周身五彩雲，下八寶平水、萬代江山。
The travel belt was bright yellow; left and right hung red perfumed leather fittings, each trimmed with three gilt floral silver rings. Ribbons of Korean cloth, slightly wider and shorter than those on the everyday belt, were bound at center with perfumed leather and fitted with a silver-floral pouch. A bright yellow cord was set with coral. Knotted ornaments, whetstone, fire-striker, and other pendants were added as suited. Under the original regulations the emperor's crown bore a peak inlaid with eastern pearls and gems, and he girded a belt of gold-mounted jade plaques studded with eastern pearls. In Kangxi 23 (1684), it was decreed that for great rites at altars and temples the crown would bear large pearls and eastern pearls, and ritual robes would be yellow, autumn-scented, or blue satin bearing five- or three-clawed dragons. In Yongzheng 1 (1723), ritual robes were fixed as stone-blue, bright yellow, scarlet, or moon-white satin with a three-color motif of nine round gold dragons, each with a pearl at its mouth. Nine small roundels of gold dragons adorned the waist hem. Five-colored clouds circled the robe; below ran the Eight Treasures over level waves and the motif of rivers and mountains for ten thousand generations.
26
皇后朝冠，冬用薰貂，夏以青絨為之，上綴硃緯。 頂三層，貫東珠各一，皆承以金鳳，飾東珠各三，珍珠各十七，上銜大東珠一。 硃緯上周綴金鳳七，飾東珠九，貓睛石一，珍珠二十一。 後金翟一，飾貓睛石一，珍珠十六。 翟尾垂珠，凡珍珠三百有二，五行二就，每行大珍珠一。 中間金銜青金石結一，飾東珠、珍珠各六，末綴珊瑚。 冠後護領垂明黃絛二，末綴寶石，青緞為帶。
The empress's court crown was scented sable in winter, blue velvet in summer, topped with vermilion woven tassels. Its three-tiered peak held one eastern pearl per tier, each borne by a gold phoenix set with three eastern pearls and seventeen pearls, surmounted by one large eastern pearl. Seven gold phoenixes encircled the vermilion band, set with nine eastern pearls, one cat's-eye, and twenty-one pearls. At the rear stood one gold pheasant, set with one cat's-eye and sixteen pearls. Pearls hung from the pheasant tail—302 in all—in five rows of two tiers, each row headed by one large pearl. At center a gold mount held a lapis knot with six eastern pearls and six pearls, terminating in coral. From the rear neck-guard hung two bright yellow cords tipped with gems, with a blue satin band.
27
吉服冠，薰貂為之，上綴硃緯。 頂用東珠。
The festive crown was of scented sable, topped with vermilion tassels. Its peak was set with an eastern pearl.
28
金約，鏤金雲十三，飾東珠各一，間以青金石，紅片金里。 後系金銜綠松石結，貫珠下垂，凡珍珠三百二十四，五行三就，每行大珍珠一。 中間金銜青金石結二，每具飾東珠、珍珠各八，末綴珊瑚。
A gold forehead band bore thirteen gilt cloud motifs, each set with an eastern pearl and spaced with lapis, lined in red gilt. From the rear hung a turquoise knot in a gold mount, strung with 324 pearls in five rows of three tiers, each row led by one large pearl. Two lapis knots in gold mounts at the center, each set with eight eastern pearls and eight pearls and finished in coral.
29
耳飾，左右各三，每具金龍銜一等東珠各二。
Ear ornaments: three on each side, each a gold dragon bearing two first-grade eastern pearls.
30
朝褂之制三，皆石青色，片金緣：一，綉文前後立龍各二，下通襞積，四層相間，上為正龍各四，下為萬福萬壽文。 一，綉文前後正龍各一，腰帷行龍四，中有襞積。 下幅行龍八。 一，綉文前後立龍各二，中無襞積。 下幅八寶平水。 皆垂明黃絛，其飾珠寶惟宜。
Three court surcoat styles, all stone-blue with gilt edging: the first bore two standing dragons front and back above gathered pleats in four alternating tiers—four front-facing dragons above, myriad felicity-and-longevity motifs below. The second had one front-facing dragon front and back, four striding dragons at the waist panel, and gathered pleats at center. Eight striding dragons adorned the lower panel. The third had two standing dragons front and back, with no central pleats. The lower panel bore the Eight Treasures over level waves. All hung bright yellow cords with gemstones fitted as befitting.
31
朝袍之制三，皆明黃色：一，披領及袖皆石青，片金緣，冬加貂緣，肩上下襲朝褂處亦加緣。 綉文金龍九，間以五色雲。 中有襞積。 下幅八寶平水。 披領行龍二，袖端正龍各一，袖相接處行龍各二。 一，披領及袖皆石青，夏用片金緣，冬用片雲加海龍緣，肩上下襲朝褂處亦加緣。 綉文前後正龍各一，兩肩行龍各一，腰帷行龍四。 中有襞積。 下幅行龍八。 一，領袖片金加海龍緣，夏片金緣。 中無襞積。 裾後開。 餘俱如貂緣朝袍之制。 領後垂明黃絛，飾珠寶惟宜。
Three court robe styles, all bright yellow: the first had stone-blue draped collar and sleeves with gilt borders—sable trim in winter—and matching borders where the surcoat overlapped the shoulders. Nine gold dragons were embroidered among five-colored clouds. The center was gathered in pleats. The lower panel showed the Eight Treasures over level waves. Two striding dragons on the draped collar; one front-facing dragon on each cuff; two striding dragons where the sleeves joined. The second likewise had stone-blue collar and sleeves—gilt borders in summer, gilt cloud and sea-dragon trim in winter—with borders where the surcoat met the shoulders. One front-facing dragon front and back, one striding dragon on each shoulder, four striding dragons on the waist panel. The center was gathered in pleats. Eight striding dragons adorned the lower panel. The third had gilt collar and sleeves with sea-dragon trim—gilt borders only in summer. It had no central pleats. The back hem was slit open. All else followed the sable-trimmed court robe. Bright yellow cords hung behind the collar, jeweled as befitting.
32
龍褂之制二，皆石青色：一，綉文五爪金龍八團，兩肩前後正龍各一，襟行龍四。 下幅八寶立水。 袖端行龍各二。 一，下幅及袖端不施章采。
Two dragon surcoat styles, both stone-blue: the first bore eight roundels of five-clawed gold dragons, one front-facing dragon on each shoulder and front and back, and four striding dragons on the front panel. The lower panel showed the Eight Treasures over standing waves. Two striding dragons on each cuff. The second bore no decorative motifs on the lower panel or cuffs.
33
龍袍之制三，皆明黃色，領袖皆石青：一，綉文金龍九，間以五色雲，福壽文采惟宜。 下幅八寶立水，領前後正龍各一，左右及交襟處行龍各一。 袖如朝袍，裾左右開。 一，綉文五爪金龍八團，兩肩前後正龍各一，襟行龍四。 下幅八寶立水。 一，下幅不施章采。
Three dragon robe styles, bright yellow with stone-blue collar and sleeves: the first had nine gold dragons among five-colored clouds, with felicity and longevity motifs as suited. The lower panel bore the Eight Treasures over standing waves; one front-facing dragon front and back on the collar, and one striding dragon at each side and at the crossover. Sleeves followed the court robe; the hem was split at left and right. The second bore eight roundels of five-clawed gold dragons, one front-facing dragon on each shoulder and front and back, and four striding dragons on the front panel. The lower panel showed the Eight Treasures over standing waves. The third had no decorative motifs on the lower panel.
34
領約，鏤金為之，飾東珠十一，間以珊瑚。 兩端垂明黃絛二，中貫珊瑚，末綴綠松石各二。
The collar clasp was gilt, set with eleven eastern pearls spaced with coral. Two bright yellow cords hung from either end, strung with coral at center and two turquoise stones at each tip.
35
朝服朝珠三盤，東珠一，珊瑚二，佛頭、記念、背雲、大小墜珠寶雜飾惟宜。 吉服朝珠一盤，珍寶隨所御。 絛皆明黃色。
Court dress required three strands of prayer beads—one of eastern pearls, two of coral—with Buddha-head, memorial, back-cloud, and large and small pendant jewels as befitting. Festive dress used one strand of beads, its gems matching the occasion. All cords were bright yellow.
36
采帨，綠色，綉文為「五穀豐登」。 佩箴管、縏袠之屬。 絛皆明黃色。
A green ceremonial sash was embroidered with the characters "Abundant Harvest of the Five Grains." She wore a needle case, girdle ties, and the like. All cords were bright yellow.
37
朝裙，冬用片金加海龍緣，上用紅織金壽字緞，下石青行龍妝緞，皆正幅。 有襞積。 夏以紗為之。
The court skirt: in winter, gilt sea-dragon borders; upper panel of red gold-woven longevity-character satin; lower of stone-blue striding-dragon brocade—all in full widths. It was gathered in pleats. In summer it was made of gauze.
38
太皇太后、皇太后冠服諸制與皇后同。 初制，皇后冠服，凡慶賀大典，冠用東珠鑲頂，禮服用黃色、秋香色五爪龍緞、鳳皇翟鳥等緞。 太皇太后、皇太后冠服，凡遇受賀諸慶典，冠用東珠鑲頂，禮服用黃色、秋香色五爪龍緞、綉緞、妝緞。
The Grand Empress Dowager and Empress Dowager wore the same crown and dress as the Empress. Originally, for celebratory state occasions the Empress's crown bore an eastern-pearl peak and her ritual robes were yellow or autumn-scented five-claw dragon satin, phoenix-and-pheasant satin, and the like. For occasions when they received congratulations, the Grand and Empress Dowagers likewise wore crowns with eastern-pearl peaks and robes of yellow or autumn-scented five-claw dragon satin, embroidery, and brocade.
39
皇貴妃朝冠，冬用薰貂，夏以青絨為之。 上綴硃緯。 頂三層，貫東珠各一，皆承以金鳳，飾東珠各三，珍珠各十七，上銜大珍珠一。 硃緯上周綴金鳳七，飾東珠各九，珍珠各二十一。 後金翟一，飾貓睛石一，珍珠十六，翟尾垂珠，凡珍珠一百九十二，三行二就。 中間金銜青金石結一，東珠、珍珠各四，末綴珊瑚。 冠後護領垂明黃絛二，末綴寶石。 青緞為帶。 吉服冠與皇后同。
The Imperial Noble Consort's court crown was scented sable in winter, blue velvet in summer. Vermilion tassels were attached above. Its three-tiered peak held one eastern pearl per tier, each borne by a gold phoenix set with three eastern pearls and seventeen pearls, surmounted by one large pearl. Seven gold phoenixes encircled the vermilion band, each set with nine eastern pearls and twenty-one pearls. At the rear stood one gold pheasant set with one cat's-eye and sixteen pearls; pearls hung from its tail—192 in all—in three rows of two tiers. At center a gold mount held a lapis knot with four eastern pearls and four pearls, terminating in coral. From the rear neck-guard hung two bright yellow cords tipped with gems. A blue satin band completed it. Her festive crown matched the Empress's.
40
金約，鏤金雲十二，飾東珠各一，間以珊瑚，紅片金里。 後系金銜綠松石結，貫珠下垂，凡珍珠二百有四，三行三就。 中間金銜青金石結二，每具飾東珠、珍珠各六，末綴珊瑚。 耳飾用二等東珠，餘同皇后。 朝褂、朝袍、龍褂、龍袍、采帨、朝裙皆與皇后同。
Her gold forehead band bore twelve gilt clouds, each set with an eastern pearl and spaced with coral, lined in red gilt. At the back hangs a gold-mounted turquoise boss from which pearl strands fall: two hundred and four pearls in all, arranged in three rows of three tiers. Between them sit two gold fittings set with lapis lazuli knots, each bearing six Eastern pearls and six ordinary pearls, finished with coral pendants. For ear ornaments she wears second-grade Eastern pearls; in all other respects her regalia matches the Empress. Her court surcoat, court robe, dragon surcoat, dragon robe, ceremonial sash, and court skirt are identical to those of the Empress.
41
領約，鏤金為之，飾東珠七，間以珊瑚。 兩端垂明黃絛二，中貫珊瑚，末綴珊瑚各二。
Her collar clasp is wrought in openwork gold, set with seven Eastern pearls alternating with coral. From either end depend two cords of bright imperial yellow, coral beads strung along their length, each cord terminating in a pair of coral drops.
42
朝服朝珠三盤，蜜珀一，珊瑚二。 吉服朝珠一盤。 絛明黃色。
For court dress she wears three strands of court beads: one of amber and two of coral. For auspicious dress she wears a single strand of court beads. Her ceremonial cords are bright imperial yellow.
43
貴妃冠服袍及垂絛皆金黃色，餘與皇貴妃同。
The Noble Consort's crown, robes, and pendant cords are all golden yellow; otherwise her attire follows that of the Imperial Noble Consort.
44
妃朝冠，頂二層，貫東珠各一，皆承以金鳳，飾東珠九，珍珠十七，上銜貓睛石。 硃緯。 上周綴金鳳五，飾東珠七，珍珠二十一。 後金翟一，飾貓睛石一，珍珠十六，翟尾垂珠，凡珍珠一百八十八，三行二就。 中間金銜青金石結一，飾東珠、珍珠各四，末綴珊瑚。 冠後護領垂金黃絛二，末綴寶石。 青緞為帶。 吉服冠頂用碧埡。 餘同貴妃。
A Consort's court crown rises in two tiers, each bearing a single Eastern pearl and resting on a golden phoenix; the crown is set with nine Eastern pearls and seventeen pearls and crowned with cat's-eye stone. Cinnabar tassels adorn the crown. Five golden phoenixes circle the upper band, each ornamented with seven Eastern pearls and twenty-one pearls. At the rear stands a golden pheasant set with one cat's-eye stone and sixteen pearls; from its tail hang one hundred and eighty-eight pearls in three rows of two tiers. At the center hangs a gold-mounted lapis lazuli knot bearing four Eastern pearls and four pearls, finished with coral. From the protective collar at the back of the crown fall two golden-yellow cords, each ending in a gem. The crown band is of blue satin. For auspicious dress the crown is topped with bluish jade. In all other respects her regalia matches that of the Noble Consort.
45
金約，鏤金雲十一，飾東珠各一，間以青金石，紅片金里。 後系金銜綠松石結，貫珠下垂，凡珍珠一百九十七，三行三就。 中間金銜青金石結二，每具飾東珠、珍珠各六，末綴珊瑚。 耳飾用三等東珠。 餘同貴妃。 朝褂、朝袍、龍褂、龍袍、領約、朝裙、朝珠皆與貴妃同。
Her gold forehead clasp bears eleven openwork cloud motifs, each set with an Eastern pearl and separated by lapis lazuli, with a lining of red gold foil. At the back hangs a gold-mounted turquoise boss from which pearl strands fall: one hundred and ninety-seven pearls in all, arranged in three rows of three tiers. Between them sit two gold fittings set with lapis lazuli knots, each bearing six Eastern pearls and six ordinary pearls, finished with coral pendants. For ear ornaments she wears third-grade Eastern pearls. In all other respects her regalia matches that of the Noble Consort. Her court surcoat, court robe, dragon surcoat, dragon robe, collar clasp, court skirt, and court beads are identical to those of the Noble Consort.
46
采帨，綉文為「雲芝瑞草」。 餘與貴妃同。
Her ceremonial sash is embroidered with the design "Cloud Fungus and Auspicious Grass." In all other respects her attire follows that of the Noble Consort.
47
嬪朝冠，頂二層，貫東珠各一，皆承以金翟，飾東珠九，珍珠十七，上銜子。 硃緯。 上周綴金翟五，飾東珠五，珍珠十九。 後金翟一，飾珍珠十六，翟尾垂珠，凡珍珠一百七十二，三行二就。 中間金銜青金石結一，飾東珠、珍珠各三，末綴珊瑚。 冠後護領垂金黃絛二，末綴寶石。 青緞為帶。 吉服冠與妃同。
An Imperial Concubine's court crown rises in two tiers, each bearing a single Eastern pearl and resting on a golden pheasant; the crown is set with nine Eastern pearls and seventeen pearls and capped with a plain bead boss. Cinnabar tassels adorn the crown. Five golden pheasants circle the upper band, ornamented with five Eastern pearls and nineteen pearls. At the rear stands a golden pheasant set with sixteen pearls; from its tail hang one hundred and seventy-two pearls in three rows of two tiers. At the center hangs a gold-mounted lapis lazuli knot bearing three Eastern pearls and three pearls, finished with coral. From the protective collar at the back of the crown fall two golden-yellow cords, each ending in a gem. The crown band is of blue satin. For auspicious dress her crown follows that of a Consort.
48
金約，鏤金雲八，飾東珠各一，間以青金石，紅片金里。 後系金銜綠松石結，貫珠下垂，凡珍珠一百七十七，三行二就。 中間金銜青金石結二，每具飾東珠、珍珠各四，末綴珊瑚。 耳飾用四等東珠。 餘與妃同。
Her gold forehead clasp bears eight openwork cloud motifs, each set with an Eastern pearl and separated by lapis lazuli, with a lining of red gold foil. At the back hangs a gold-mounted turquoise boss from which pearl strands fall: one hundred and seventy-seven pearls in all, arranged in three rows of two tiers. Between them sit two gold fittings set with lapis lazuli knots, each bearing four Eastern pearls and four ordinary pearls, finished with coral pendants. For ear ornaments she wears fourth-grade Eastern pearls. In all other respects her regalia matches that of a Consort.
49
朝褂，與妃同。 龍褂，綉文兩肩前後正龍各一，襟夔龍四。 餘同妃制。 朝袍、龍袍俱用香色。 餘與妃同。
Her court surcoat is identical to a Consort's. Her dragon surcoat bears an upright dragon on each shoulder and on the front and back, with four kui dragons worked on the collar and lapel. All else conforms to the regulations for a Consort. Both her court robe and dragon robe are of incense brown. In all other respects her attire follows that of a Consort.
50
朝服朝珠三盤，珊瑚一、蜜珀二。 吉服朝珠一盤。 絛用金黃色。 領約、朝裙皆與妃同。 采帨不繡花文。 餘同妃制。 初制，皇貴妃、貴妃、妃、嬪冠服，凡慶賀大典，皇貴妃、貴妃冠頂用東珠十二顆，妃冠頂用東珠十一顆。 禮服用鳳凰、翟鳥等緞，五爪龍緞、妝緞、八團龍等緞。 至黃色、秋香色，自皇貴妃以下，概不許服。 嬪冠頂用東珠十顆，禮服用翟鳥等緞，五爪龍緞、妝緞、四團龍等緞。
For court dress she wears three strands of court beads: one of coral and two of amber. For auspicious dress she wears a single strand of court beads. Her ceremonial cords are golden yellow. Her collar clasp and court skirt match those of a Consort. Her ceremonial sash is left without embroidered floral designs. All else conforms to the regulations for a Consort. Originally, at every grand celebratory rite, the crown tops of the Imperial Noble Consort and Noble Consort were set with twelve Eastern pearls, while a Consort's crown top bore eleven. Their ceremonial robes were made of phoenix and pheasant satins, five-claw dragon brocade, decorated brocade, and eight-roundel dragon brocade. Bright imperial yellow and autumn-incense hues were forbidden to all ranks from the Imperial Noble Consort down. An Imperial Concubine's crown top bore ten Eastern pearls; her ceremonial robes were of pheasant satin, five-claw dragon brocade, decorated brocade, and four-roundel dragon brocade.
51
皇子朝冠，冬用薰貂、青狐惟其時。 上綴硃緯。 頂金龍二層，飾東珠十，銜紅寶石。 夏織玉草或藤竹絲為之。 石青片金緣二層，里用紅片金或紅紗。 上綴硃緯。 前綴舍林，飾東珠五。 後綴金花，飾東珠四。 頂如冬朝冠，吉服冠紅絨結頂。
A prince's winter court crown was of scented sable or blue fox, as the season required. Cinnabar tassels were mounted upon it. Its crown rose in two tiers shaped as a golden dragon, set with ten Eastern pearls and capped with a red gemstone. In summer it was woven from jade grass or rattan-and-bamboo silk. It was edged in two bands of azurite blue with gold thread, lined with red gold foil or red gauze. Cinnabar tassels were mounted upon it. A shelin ornament was fixed at the front, set with five Eastern pearls. A golden flower was fixed at the rear, set with four Eastern pearls. Its crown matched the winter court crown; for auspicious dress the crown was topped with a red velvet knot.
52
端罩，紫貂為之，金黃緞里。 左右垂帶各二，下廣而銳，色與里同。 龍褂，色用石青。 正面綉五爪金龍四團，兩肩前後各一，間以五色雲。
His formal surcoat was of purple sable, lined with golden-yellow satin. On either side hung two ribbons, wide below and sharp at the tip, in the same hue as the lining. His dragon surcoat was azurite blue. Its front was embroidered with four roundels of five-claw golden dragons—one on each shoulder and on the breast and back—amid five-colored clouds.
53
朝服之制二，皆金黃色：一，披領及裳俱表以紫貂。 袖端薰貂。 綉文兩肩前後正龍各一，襞積行龍六，間以五色雲。 一，披領及袖俱石青，片金緣，冬加海龍緣。 綉文兩肩前後正龍各一，腰帷行龍四，裳行龍八，披領行龍二，袖端正龍各一。 下幅八寶平水。 蟒袍亦金黃色，片金緣，綉文九蟒，裾左、右開。
Court dress came in two forms, both golden yellow: in the first, collar cape and skirt were faced with purple sable. The sleeve cuffs were of scented sable. It was embroidered with an upright dragon on each shoulder and on the breast and back, six coiling dragons among the pleats, and five-colored clouds throughout. In the second, collar cape and sleeves were wholly azurite blue with gold-thread edging, and in winter trimmed with sea-otter fur. Its embroidery showed an upright dragon on each shoulder and on the breast and back, four coiling dragons on the waist panel, eight on the skirt, two on the collar cape, and an upright dragon on each cuff. Along the lower hem ran the Eight Treasures and calm-water motif. His python robe was likewise golden yellow with gold-thread edging, embroidered with nine pythons, and slit at either side of the hem.
54
朝珠不得用東珠，餘隨所用，絛皆金黃色。
Eastern pearls were forbidden on court beads; other materials were worn as appropriate, and all cords were golden yellow.
55
朝帶，色用金黃，金銜玉方版四，每具飾東珠四，中銜貓睛石一，左右佩絛如帶色。 吉服帶亦色用金黃，版飾惟宜，佩絛如帶色。
His court belt was golden yellow, bearing four square jade plaques in gold mounts—each set with four Eastern pearls and a central cat's-eye—with pendant cords to match. His auspicious-dress belt was likewise golden yellow, its plaques ornamented as suited the occasion, with pendant cords to match.
56
雨冠、雨衣、雨裳，均用紅色，氈、羽紗、油綢，各惟其時。 初制，皇子冠服，凡慶賀大典，冠用東珠十三顆鑲頂，禮服用秋香等色，五爪、三爪龍緞，滿翠八團龍等緞，束金鑲玉嵌東珠帶。
Rain crown, rain robe, and rain skirt were all red, made of felt, feather gauze, or oiled silk as the season demanded. Originally, at every grand celebratory rite a prince's crown bore thirteen Eastern pearls on its peak; his ceremonial robes were of autumn-incense and other hues, in five- and three-claw dragon brocade and full-emerald eight-roundel dragon brocade, girded with a gold-inlaid jade belt set with Eastern pearls.
57
親王朝冠，與皇子同。 吉服冠，冬用海龍、薰貂、紫貂惟其時。 夏織玉草或藤竹絲為之。 紅紗綢里。 石青片金緣。 上綴硃緯。 頂用紅寶石，曾賜紅絨結頂者，亦得用之。
An Imperial Prince's court crown matched that of an ordinary prince. For auspicious dress the crown was, in winter, of sea otter, scented sable, or purple sable as the season required. In summer it was woven from jade grass or rattan-and-bamboo silk. It was lined with red gauze silk. Its edging was azurite blue with gold thread. Cinnabar tassels were mounted upon it. Its peak was set with a red gemstone; those earlier granted a red velvet knot crown might wear that instead.
58
端罩，青狐為之，月白緞里，若曾賜金黃色者，亦得用之。 補服用石青色，綉五爪金龍四團，前後正龍，兩肩行龍。 朝服、蟒袍藍及石青隨所用，若曾賜金黃色者，亦得用之。 餘與皇子同。
His formal surcoat was of blue fox lined with moon-white satin; if golden yellow had been granted him, he might wear that as well. His badge surcoat was azurite blue, embroidered with four roundels of five-claw golden dragons: upright dragons on breast and back, coiling dragons on the shoulders. Court dress and python robe might be blue or azurite as appropriate; if golden yellow had been granted, that too was permitted. In all other respects his attire followed that of an ordinary prince.
59
朝珠、朝帶、吉服帶、雨冠、雨衣、雨裳，均與皇子同。 崇德元年，定親王冠頂三層，上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠八。 前舍林，嵌東珠四。 後金花，嵌東珠三。 帶用金鑲玉版四片，嵌東珠四。 順治九年，定冠頂共嵌東珠十，舍林、金花各增嵌東珠一。 帶四片，每片嵌東珠四。 服用五爪四團龍補、五爪龍緞、滿翠四補等緞。
His court beads, court belt, auspicious-dress belt, rain crown, rain robe, and rain skirt all matched those of an ordinary prince. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that an Imperial Prince's crown should rise in three tiers, its peak set with a red gemstone and its middle inlaid with eight Eastern pearls. The front shelin bore four inlaid Eastern pearls. The rear golden flower bore three inlaid Eastern pearls. The belt carried four gold-inlaid jade plaques, each set with four Eastern pearls. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the crown top was fixed at ten Eastern pearls in all, with one additional pearl added to both the shelin and the golden flower. The belt bore four plaques, each inlaid with four Eastern pearls. Robes were of five-claw four-roundel dragon badges, five-claw dragon brocade, and full-emerald four-badge brocade.
60
親王世子朝冠，頂金龍二層，飾東珠九，上銜紅寶石。 夏朝冠前綴舍林，飾東珠五。 後綴金花，飾東珠四。 吉服冠、端罩、補服、朝服、蟒袍、朝珠皆與親王同。
An Imperial Prince's heir wore a court crown whose two-tiered golden dragon peak was set with nine Eastern pearls and capped with a red gemstone. The summer court crown bore a shelin at the front, set with five Eastern pearls. A golden flower was fixed at the rear, set with four Eastern pearls. His auspicious-dress crown, formal surcoat, rank-badge surcoat, court dress, python robe, and court beads all matched those of an Imperial Prince.
61
朝帶，色用金黃，金銜玉方版四，每具飾東珠三。 左右佩絛如帶色。 吉服帶與親王同。 順治九年，定親王世子冠頂三層，共嵌東珠九。 帶用金鑲玉版四片，每片嵌東珠三。 服與親王同。
His court belt was golden yellow, bearing four square jade plaques in gold mounts, each set with three Eastern pearls. The pendant cords at either side matched the belt in color. His auspicious-dress belt matched that of an Imperial Prince. In the ninth year of Shunzhi it was ordained that an Imperial Prince's heir's crown should rise in three tiers, set with nine Eastern pearls in all. The belt carried four gold-inlaid jade plaques, each set with three Eastern pearls. His robes followed those of an Imperial Prince.
62
郡王朝冠，頂金龍二層，飾東珠八，上銜紅寶石。 夏朝冠前綴舍林，飾東珠四。 後綴金花，飾東珠三。 吉服冠、端罩皆與親王世子同。
A commandery prince's court crown bore a two-tiered golden dragon peak set with eight Eastern pearls and capped with a red gemstone. The summer court crown bore a shelin at the front, set with four Eastern pearls. A golden flower was fixed at the rear, set with three Eastern pearls. His auspicious-dress crown and formal surcoat both matched those of an Imperial Prince's heir.
63
補服，用石青色，綉五爪行龍四團，兩肩前後各一。 朝服、蟒袍、朝珠皆與親王世子同。
His badge surcoat was azurite blue, embroidered with four roundels of five-claw coiling dragons—one on each shoulder and one on breast and back. His court dress, python robe, and court beads all matched those of an Imperial Prince's heir.
64
朝帶，色用金黃，金銜玉方版四，每具飾東珠二，貓睛石一。 佩絛如帶色。 吉服帶與親王世子同。 崇德元年，定郡王冠頂三層，上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠七。 前舍林，嵌東珠三。 後金花，嵌東珠二。 帶用金鑲玉版四片，嵌綠松石四。 順治九年，定冠頂共嵌東珠八，舍林、金花各增嵌東珠一。 帶四片，每片嵌東珠二。 服與親王同。
His court belt was golden yellow, bearing four square jade plaques in gold mounts—each set with two Eastern pearls and one cat's-eye. His pendant cords matched the belt in color. His auspicious-dress belt matched that of an Imperial Prince's heir. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a commandery prince's crown should rise in three tiers, its peak set with a red gemstone and its middle inlaid with seven Eastern pearls. The front shelin bore three inlaid Eastern pearls. The rear golden flower bore two inlaid Eastern pearls. The belt carried four gold-inlaid jade plaques set with four turquoise stones. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the crown top was fixed at eight Eastern pearls in all, with one additional pearl added to both the shelin and the golden flower. The belt bore four plaques, each inlaid with two Eastern pearls. His robes followed those of an Imperial Prince.
65
貝勒朝冠，頂金龍二層，飾東珠七，上銜紅寶石。 夏朝冠前綴舍林，飾東珠三。 後綴金花，飾東珠二。 吉服冠、端罩皆與郡王同。
A beile's court crown bore a two-tiered golden dragon peak set with seven Eastern pearls and capped with a red gemstone. The summer court crown bore a shelin at the front, set with three Eastern pearls. A golden flower was fixed at the rear, set with two Eastern pearls. His auspicious-dress crown and formal surcoat both matched those of a commandery prince.
66
補服，色用石青，前後綉四爪正蟒各一團，朝服通綉四爪蟒文，蟒袍亦如之，均不得用金黃色，餘隨所用。 朝珠絛用石青色。 餘同郡王。 朝帶色用金黃，金銜玉方版四，每具飾東珠二。 佩絛皆石青色，吉服帶色用金黃，版飾惟宜。 佩絛亦皆石青色。 崇德元年，定貝勒冠頂三層，上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠六。 前舍林，綴東珠二。 後金花，綴東珠一。 帶用金鑲玉版四片，嵌寶石四。 順治九年，定冠頂共嵌東珠七，舍林、金花各增嵌東珠一。 帶四片，每片嵌東珠二。 服用四爪兩團龍補及蟒緞、妝緞。
His badge surcoat was stone-blue, with a roundel of a four-claw upright python embroidered on breast and back; his court dress was embroidered throughout with four-claw python motifs, and his python robe likewise; golden yellow was forbidden throughout, and other colors were worn as occasion required. His court beads were strung on stone-blue cord. In all other respects his attire followed that of a commandery prince. His court belt was golden yellow, bearing four square jade plaques in gold mounts, each set with two Eastern pearls. His pendant cords were all stone-blue; his auspicious-dress belt was golden yellow, its plaques ornamented as suited the occasion. His pendant cords too were all stone-blue. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a beile's crown should rise in three tiers, its peak set with a red gemstone and its middle inlaid with six Eastern pearls. The front shelin bore two Eastern pearls. The rear golden flower bore one Eastern pearl. The belt carried four gold-inlaid jade plaques set with four gemstones. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the crown top was fixed at seven Eastern pearls in all, with one additional pearl added to both the shelin and the golden flower. The belt bore four plaques, each inlaid with two Eastern pearls. Robes were of four-claw two-roundel dragon badges, python brocade, and decorated brocade.
67
貝子朝冠，頂金龍二層，飾東珠六，上銜紅寶石。 夏朝冠前綴舍林，飾東珠二。 後綴金花，飾東珠一。 吉服冠頂用紅寶石。 皆戴三眼孔雀翎。 孔雀花翎有三眼、雙眼、單眼之分，遇賞均得戴用。 端罩制同貝勒。 補服色用石青，前後綉四爪行蟒各一團。 朝服、蟒袍、朝珠皆與貝勒同。
A beizi's court crown bore a two-tiered golden dragon peak set with six Eastern pearls and capped with a red gemstone. The summer court crown bore a shelin at the front, set with two Eastern pearls. A golden flower was fixed at the rear, set with one Eastern pearl. The auspicious-dress crown peak was set with a red gemstone. All wore three-eye peacock plumes. Peacock ornamental plumes were graded as three-eye, double-eye, and single-eye; any grade granted by imperial award might be worn. His formal surcoat followed the beile's regulations. His badge surcoat was stone-blue, with a roundel of a four-claw coiling python on breast and back. His court dress, python robe, and court beads all matched those of a beile.
68
朝帶，色用金黃，金銜玉方版四，每具飾東珠一。 吉服帶與貝勒同。 崇德元年，定貝子冠頂二層。 上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠五。 前舍林，後金花，各嵌東珠一。 帶用金鑲玉版四片，每片嵌藍寶石一。 順治九年，定冠頂共嵌東珠六，舍林增嵌東珠一，餘如舊。 帶四片，每片嵌東珠一。 服與貝勒同。
His court belt was golden yellow, bearing four square jade plaques in gold mounts, each set with one Eastern pearl. His auspicious-dress belt matched that of a beile. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a beizi's crown should rise in two tiers. Its peak was set with a red gemstone and its middle inlaid with five Eastern pearls. The front shelin and rear golden flower each bore one inlaid Eastern pearl. The belt carried four gold-inlaid jade plaques, each set with one sapphire. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the crown top was fixed at six Eastern pearls in all, with one additional pearl added to the shelin; all else remained unchanged. The belt bore four plaques, each inlaid with one Eastern pearl. His robes followed those of a beile.
69
鎮國公朝冠，頂金龍二層，飾東珠五，上銜紅寶石。 夏朝冠前綴舍林，飾東珠一。 後綴金花，飾綠松石一。 吉服冠，入八分公頂用紅寶石，未入八分公用珊瑚，皆戴雙眼孔雀翎。 端罩紫貂為之，月白緞里。 補服前後綉四爪正蟒方補。 朝服、蟒袍、朝珠與貝子同。
A duke who guards the state wore a court crown whose two-tiered golden dragon peak was set with five Eastern pearls and capped with a red gemstone. The summer court crown bore a shelin at the front, set with one Eastern pearl. A golden flower was fixed at the rear, set with one turquoise stone. For auspicious dress, a duke granted the eight privileges wore a red gemstone on his crown peak and one not so granted wore coral; all wore double-eye peacock plumes. His formal surcoat was of purple sable, lined with moon-white satin. His badge surcoat bore square badges embroidered with four-claw upright pythons on breast and back. His court dress, python robe, and court beads matched those of a beizi.
70
朝帶，金銜玉方版四，每具飾貓睛石一。 吉服帶與貝子同。 崇德元年，定鎮國公冠頂二層，上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠四。 前舍林，嵌東珠一。 後金花，嵌綠松石一。 帶如貝子。 順治九年，定冠頂共嵌東珠五，餘如舊。 帶四片，每片嵌貓睛石一。 服用四爪方蟒補。 餘與貝勒同。
His court belt bore four square jade plaques in gold mounts, each set with one cat's-eye. His auspicious-dress belt matched that of a beizi. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a duke who guards the state should wear a crown of two tiers, its peak set with a red gemstone and its middle inlaid with four Eastern pearls. The front shelin bore one inlaid Eastern pearl. The rear golden flower bore one inlaid turquoise stone. The belt followed that of a beizi. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the crown top was fixed at five Eastern pearls in all; all else remained unchanged. The belt bore four plaques, each inlaid with one cat's-eye. Robes bore four-claw square python badges. In all other respects his attire followed that of a beile.
71
輔國公朝冠，頂金龍二層，飾東珠四，上銜紅寶石。 餘皆如鎮國公。 崇德元年，定輔國公冠頂二層，上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠三。 前舍林，嵌綠松石一。 後金花，嵌寶石一。 帶如鎮國公。 順治九年，定冠頂共嵌東珠四，舍林、金花、帶、服色俱與鎮國公同。
A duke who assists the state wore a court crown whose two-tiered golden dragon peak was set with four Eastern pearls and capped with a red gemstone. In all other respects his attire followed that of a duke who guards the state. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a duke who assists the state should wear a crown of two tiers, its peak set with a red gemstone and its middle inlaid with three Eastern pearls. The front shelin bore one inlaid turquoise stone. The rear golden flower bore one inlaid gemstone. The belt followed that of a duke who guards the state. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the crown top was fixed at four Eastern pearls in all; the shelin, golden flower, belt, and robe colors all matched those of a duke who guards the state.
72
鎮國將軍朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠一，上銜紅寶石。 吉服冠頂用珊瑚。 補服前後綉麒麟。 餘皆視武一品。 崇德元年，定鎮國將軍冠頂上銜紅寶石，帶用金鑲圓版，嵌紅寶石四。 順治九年，定冠頂中節嵌東珠，帶用金鑲方玉版，各嵌紅寶石一。 補服綉麒麟，餘與鎮國公同。
A State Guardian General's court crown rose from an openwork gold base set with one Eastern pearl at its center and capped with a red gemstone. The auspicious-dress crown peak was set with coral. His badge surcoat bore qilin embroidered on breast and back. In all other respects his attire followed the regulations for military rank one. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a State Guardian General's crown peak should bear a red gemstone; his belt carried gold-inlaid round plaques set with four red gemstones. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the middle section of the crown top was set with an Eastern pearl; the belt carried gold-inlaid square jade plaques, each set with one red gemstone. His badge surcoat bore qilin embroidery; in all other respects his attire followed that of a duke who guards the state.
73
輔國將軍朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小紅寶石，上銜鏤花珊瑚。 吉服冠頂亦用鏤花珊瑚。 補服前後綉獅。 餘皆視武二品。 崇德元年，定輔國將軍冠頂上銜藍寶石，帶用圓金版。 順治九年，定冠頂改銜紅寶石，中節嵌小紅寶石一。 帶如鎮國將軍。 補服綉獅。 餘與鎮國公同。
An Assistant State Guardian General's court crown rose from an openwork gold base set with a small red gemstone at its center and capped with openwork coral. The auspicious-dress crown peak likewise used openwork coral. His badge surcoat bore lions embroidered on breast and back. In all other respects his attire followed the regulations for military rank two. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that an Assistant State Guardian General's crown peak should bear a blue gemstone; his belt used round gold plaques. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the crown peak was changed to bear a red gemstone, with one small red gemstone set in the middle section. The belt followed that of a State Guardian General. His badge surcoat bore lion embroidery. In all other respects his attire followed that of a duke who guards the state.
74
奉國將軍朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小紅寶石一，上銜藍寶石。 吉服冠頂亦用藍寶石。 補服前後綉豹。 餘皆視武三品。 崇德元年，定奉國將軍冠頂上銜水晶石，帶用玲瓏鋄金方鐵版。 順治九年，定冠頂上銜紅寶石，中節嵌小藍寶石一。 帶用起花金圓版。 補服綉豹。 餘與鎮國公同。
A State Supporter General's court crown rose from an openwork gold base set with one small red gemstone at its center and capped with a blue gemstone. The auspicious-dress crown peak likewise used a blue gemstone. His badge surcoat bore leopards embroidered on breast and back. In all other respects his attire followed the regulations for military rank three. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a State Supporter General's crown peak should bear rock crystal; his belt used openwork gilt iron square plaques. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the crown peak was changed to bear a red gemstone, with one small blue gemstone set in the middle section. The belt used embossed gold round plaques. His badge surcoat bore leopard embroidery. In all other respects his attire followed that of a duke who guards the state.
75
奉恩將軍朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小藍寶石一，上銜青金石。 補服前後綉虎，餘皆視武四品，惟衣裾四啟。 帶用金黃色，凡宗室皆如之，覺羅用紅色。 順治九年，定奉恩將軍冠頂上銜藍寶石，中節嵌小藍寶石一。 帶用起花金鑲銀圓版。 補服綉虎，餘與鎮國公同。
A State Grace General's court crown rose from an openwork gold base set with one small blue gemstone at its center and capped with lapis lazuli. His badge surcoat bore tigers embroidered on breast and back; in all other respects his attire followed military rank four, except that his robe skirt bore four pleats. The belt was golden yellow for all imperial clansmen; for Jueluo it was red. In the ninth year of Shunzhi it was ordained that a State Grace General's crown peak should bear a blue gemstone, with one small blue gemstone set in the middle section. The belt used embossed gold round plaques with silver inlay. His badge surcoat bore tiger embroidery; in all other respects his attire followed that of a duke who guards the state.
76
固倫額駙吉服冠，頂用紅寶石，戴三眼孔雀翎。 吉服帶用金黃色。 餘與貝子同。 崇德元年，定固倫額駙冠服與貝子同。 順治八年，定冠頂嵌東珠六。 舍林嵌東珠二。 金花嵌東珠一。 帶用金鑲玉圓版四片，每片嵌東珠一。
A Gulun Princess Consort's auspicious-dress crown bore a red gemstone and a three-eye peacock plume. His auspicious-dress belt was golden yellow. In all other respects his attire matched that of a beizi. In the first year of Chongde the crown and dress of a Gulun Princess Consort were fixed to match those of a beizi. In the eighth year of Shunzhi the crown top was set with six Eastern pearls. The shelin bore two inlaid Eastern pearls. The golden flower bore one inlaid Eastern pearl. The belt carried four gold-inlaid jade round plaques, each set with one Eastern pearl.
77
和碩額駙吉服冠，頂用珊瑚，戴雙眼孔雀翎。 朝帶色用石青或藍，金銜玉圓版四。 餘與鎮國公同。 崇德元年，定和碩額駙冠服與超品公同，如封爵在公以上者，仍照本階服用。 順治八年，定冠頂嵌東珠四，舍林嵌東珠一。 金花嵌綠松石一。 帶用金鑲玉圓版四片，每片嵌貓睛石一。
A Heshuo Princess Consort's auspicious-dress crown bore coral and a double-eye peacock plume. His court belt was stone-blue or blue, with four round jade plaques in gold mounts. In all other respects his attire followed that of a duke who guards the state. In the first year of Chongde a Heshuo Princess Consort's crown and dress were fixed to match a beyond-rank duke's; yet if his enfeoffed rank stood at duke or higher, he still wore according to that rank. In the eighth year of Shunzhi the crown top was set with four Eastern pearls and the shelin with one Eastern pearl. The golden flower bore one inlaid turquoise stone. The belt carried four gold-inlaid jade round plaques, each set with one cat's-eye.
78
郡主額駙朝帶，用鏤金圓版四，每具飾綠松石一。 餘視武一品。 崇德元年，定郡主額駙冠頂上銜紅寶石，嵌東珠一。 帶用金圓版四片，嵌綠松石四。 順治八年，定冠、帶與侯、伯同。 康熙元年，定用四爪蟒補服。
A Commandery Princess Consort's court belt bore four openwork gold round plaques, each set with one turquoise stone. In all other respects his attire followed military rank one. In the first year of Chongde a Commandery Princess Consort's crown peak was ordained to bear a red gemstone and one inlaid Eastern pearl. The belt carried four gold round plaques set with four turquoise stones. In the eighth year of Shunzhi crown and belt were fixed to match those of a marquis or earl. In the first year of Kangxi the badge surcoat was fixed with four-claw python insignia.
79
縣主額駙冠服，視武二品。 崇德元年，定縣主額駙冠頂上銜紅寶石。 帶用金圓版四片，每片嵌紅寶石四。
A County Princess Consort's crown and dress followed military rank two. In the first year of Chongde a County Princess Consort's crown peak was ordained to bear a red gemstone. The belt carried four gold round plaques, each set with four red gemstones.
80
郡君額駙冠服，視武三品。 崇德元年，定郡君額駙冠頂上嵌藍寶石。 帶用金圓版四片。
A Commandery Lady Consort's crown and dress followed military rank three. In the first year of Chongde a Commandery Lady Consort's crown peak was set with a blue gemstone. The belt used four gold round plaques.
81
縣君額駙朝帶，用鋄金方鐵版四。 餘與武四品同。 崇德元年，定縣君額駙冠頂上銜水晶石。 帶用鋄金方鐵版四片。
A County Lady Consort's court belt used four gilt iron square plaques. In all other respects his attire matched military rank four. In the first year of Chongde a County Lady Consort's crown peak was ordained to bear rock crystal. The belt used four gilt iron square plaques.
82
鄉君額駙朝帶，用鋄金方鐵版四。 餘與武五品同。 崇德元年，定鄉君額駙冠用金頂。 帶用鋄金圓鐵版四片。 並按固倫額駙若爵在貝子以上、和碩額駙爵在鎮國公以上者，冠服各從其品。 郡主額駙以下皆如之。
A Township Lady Consort's court belt used four gilt iron square plaques. In all other respects his attire matched military rank five. In the first year of Chongde a Township Lady Consort's crown was fixed with a gold peak. The belt used four gilt iron round plaques. Likewise, when a Gulun Princess Consort's own rank stood at beizi or higher, or a Heshuo Princess Consort's at duke who guards the state or higher, crown and dress followed that rank. Consorts of commandery princesses and below followed the same principle.
83
民公朝冠，冬用薰貂，十一月朔至上元用青狐。 頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠四，上銜紅寶石，夏頂制同。 吉服冠頂用珊瑚。
A Commoner Duke's court crown was scented sable in winter and blue fox from the eleventh month's first day through the Lantern Festival. Its peak rose from an openwork gold base set with four Eastern pearls and capped with a red gemstone; the summer crown followed the same design. The auspicious-dress crown peak used coral.
84
端罩，貂皮為之，藍緞里。 補服，色用石青，前後綉四爪正蟒。
His formal surcoat was marten fur, lined with blue satin. His badge surcoat was stone-blue, with four-claw upright pythons embroidered on breast and back.
85
朝服，藍及石青諸色隨所用。 披領及袖俱石青，片金緣，冬加海龍緣。 兩肩前後正蟒各一，腰帷行蟒四，中有襞積。 裳行蟒八。 十一月朔至上元，披領及裳俱表以紫貂，袖端薰貂。 兩肩前後正蟒各一，襞積行蟒四，皆四爪。 曾賜五爪蟒緞者，亦得用之。 蟒袍，藍及石青諸色隨所用，通綉九蟒。
Court dress might be blue or stone-blue in whichever shade was worn. Collar cape and sleeves were stone-blue with gilt banding, and in winter gained sea-dragon fur edging. One upright python on each shoulder and on the breast and back, four coiling pythons on the waist panel, and pleats at the center. The skirt bore eight coiling pythons. From the eleventh month's first day through the Lantern Festival, collar cape and skirt were faced with purple sable and the cuff ends with scented sable. One upright python on each shoulder and on breast and back, four coiling pythons on the pleats—all four-clawed. Those who had been granted five-claw python satin might wear it as well. The python robe, in blue or stone-blue as worn, was embroidered throughout with nine pythons.
86
朝珠，珊瑚青金綠松蜜珀隨所用，雜飾惟宜。 絛用石青色，朝帶色用石青或藍，鏤金玉圓版四，每具飾貓睛石一。 佩帉下廣而銳，吉服帶佩帉下直而齊，版飾惟宜。 雨冠、雨衣、雨裳俱用紅色。 崇德元年，定民公冠頂上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠一。 帶用金圓版四片，嵌綠松石四。 順治二年，定冠用起花金頂，上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠三。 帶用金鑲圓玉版四片，各嵌綠松石一。 八年，定冠頂嵌東珠四，帶片各嵌貓睛石一。
Court beads might be coral, lapis lazuli, turquoise, or amber as befitting, with pendant ornaments fitted accordingly. His cords were stone-blue; his court belt stone-blue or blue, with four openwork gold-and-jade round plaques each set with one cat's-eye. Court pendant sashes widened below and tapered to a point; on the auspicious-dress belt they hung straight and flush at the bottom, with plaque ornaments as befitting. Rain crown, rain coat, and rain skirt were all red. In the first year of Chongde a Commoner Duke's crown peak was ordained to bear a red gemstone with one Eastern pearl set in the middle. The belt carried four gold round plaques set with four turquoise stones. In the second year of Shunzhi the crown was fixed with an embossed gold peak bearing a red gemstone and three Eastern pearls in the middle. The belt carried four gold-inlaid round jade plaques, each set with one turquoise stone. In the eighth year the crown top was set with four Eastern pearls, and each belt plaque with one cat's-eye.
87
侯朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠三，上銜紅寶石。 朝帶鏤金銜玉圓版四，每具飾綠松石一。 餘皆如公。
A Marquis's court crown rose from an openwork gold base set with three Eastern pearls at its center and capped with a red gemstone. His court belt bore four round jade plaques in openwork gold mounts, each set with one turquoise stone. In all other respects his attire matched that of a Commoner Duke.
88
伯朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠二，上銜紅寶石。 朝帶鏤金銜玉圓版四，每具飾紅寶石一。 餘皆如侯。
An Earl's court crown rose from an openwork gold base set with two Eastern pearls at its center and capped with a red gemstone. His court belt bore four round jade plaques in openwork gold mounts, each set with one red gemstone. In all other respects his attire matched that of a marquis.
89
子朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠一，上銜紅寶石，補服前後綉麒麟。 餘皆視武一品。
A Viscount's court crown rose from an openwork gold base set with one Eastern pearl and capped with a red gemstone; his badge surcoat bore qilin embroidered on breast and back. In all other respects his attire followed military rank one.
90
男朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小紅寶石，上銜鏤花珊瑚。 補服前後綉獅。 餘皆視武二品。 順治二年，定侯、伯冠用起花金頂，上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠一。 帶用金鑲方玉版四片，每片嵌紅寶石一。 六年，定冠頂嵌東珠二，帶改用圓玉版。 八年，定侯冠頂東珠三。 帶片各嵌綠松石一。
A Baron's court crown rose from an openwork gold base set with a small red gemstone at its center and capped with openwork coral. His badge surcoat bore lions embroidered on breast and back. In all other respects his attire followed military rank two. In the second year of Shunzhi marquises' and earls' crowns were fixed with embossed gold peaks bearing a red gemstone and one Eastern pearl in the middle. The belt carried four gold-inlaid square jade plaques, each set with one red gemstone. In the sixth year the crown top was set with two Eastern pearls and the belt changed to round jade plaques. In the eighth year a marquis's crown top was fixed at three Eastern pearls. Each belt plaque was set with one turquoise stone.
91
皇子福晉朝冠，頂鏤金三層，飾東珠十，上銜紅寶石。 硃緯。 上周綴金孔雀五，飾東珠七，小珍珠三十九。 後金孔雀一，垂珠三行二就。 中間金銜青金石結一，飾東珠各三，末綴珊瑚。 冠後護領垂金黃絛二，末亦綴珊瑚。 青緞為帶。 吉服冠頂用紅寶石。
An Imperial Son's Consort wore a court crown of three gilt tiers set with ten Eastern pearls and capped with a red gemstone. Vermilion tassels. Five gold peacocks encircled the upper band, set with seven Eastern pearls and thirty-nine small pearls. At the rear stood one gold peacock; pearls hung in three rows of two tiers. At center a gold mount held a lapis knot set with three Eastern pearls each, terminating in coral. From the rear neck-guard hung two golden-yellow cords tipped with coral. A blue satin band completed it. The auspicious-dress crown peak was set with a red gemstone.
92
金約，鏤金雲九，飾東珠各一，間以青金石，紅片金里。 後系金銜青金石結，貫珠下垂，三行三就。 中間金銜青金石結二、每具飾東珠珍珠各四，末綴珊瑚。 耳飾左右各三，每具金雲銜珠各二。
Her gold forehead band bore nine gilt clouds, each set with an Eastern pearl and spaced with lapis, lined in red gilt. At the back hung a gold-mounted lapis knot from which pearl strands fell in three rows of three tiers. At center sat two gold-mounted lapis knots, each set with four eastern pearls and four ordinary pearls, finished with coral pendants. Ear ornaments: three per side, each a gilt cloud bearing two pearls.
93
朝褂，色用石青，片金緣。 綉文前行龍四，後行龍三。 領後垂金黃絛，雜飾惟宜。 吉服褂色用石青，綉五爪正龍四團，前後兩肩各一。 朝袍用香色，披領及袖皆石青，片金緣，冬加海龍緣。 肩上下襲朝褂處亦加緣，綉文前後正龍各一，兩肩行龍各一，襟行龍四，披領行龍二，袖端正龍各一，袖相接處行龍各二。 裾後開。 領後垂金黃絛，雜飾惟宜。 蟒袍用香色，通綉九龍。
The court surcoat was stone-blue with gilt edging. It was embroidered with four striding dragons across the front and three across the back. Golden yellow cords hung from the rear collar, with such additional ornaments as befitting. The festive surcoat was stone-blue, worked with four roundels of five-claw front-facing dragons—one on the front, one on the back, and one on each shoulder. The court robe was incense brown, with a stone-blue draped collar and sleeves edged in gilt—and in winter, sea-dragon fur trim. Trim was added at the shoulders and wherever the court surcoat overlapped; the embroidery comprised one front-facing dragon front and back, one striding dragon on each shoulder, four on the front panel, two on the draped collar, one front-facing dragon at each cuff, and two striding dragons at every sleeve seam. The hem opened at the back. Golden yellow cords hung from the rear collar, with such additional ornaments as befitting. The python robe was incense brown and fully embroidered with nine dragons.
94
領約，鏤金為之，飾東珠七，間以珊瑚。 兩端垂金黃絛二，中貫珊瑚，末綴珊瑚各二。 采帨月白色，不繡花文，結佩惟宜。 絛皆金黃色。 朝裙片金緣，冬加海龍緣，上用紅緞，下石青行龍妝緞，皆正幅，有襞積。 夏以紗為之。
The collar clasp was gilt, set with seven eastern pearls spaced with coral. Two golden yellow cords hung from either end, strung with coral at center and two coral pendants at each tip. The ceremonial sash was moon-white and left without floral embroidery, its knotted pendants fitted as befitting. All cords were golden yellow. The court skirt bore gilt edging—and in winter, sea-dragon trim—with red satin above and stone-blue striding-dragon brocade below, all in full panels with gathered pleats. In summer it was made of gauze.
95
朝服朝珠三盤，珊瑚一，蜜珀二。 吉服朝珠一盤。 珍寶隨所御。 絛皆金黃色。
Court dress required three strands of prayer beads—one of coral and two of amber. Festive dress used one strand of court beads. Precious gems were chosen to match the occasion. All cords were golden yellow.
96
親王福晉吉服褂，綉五爪金龍四團，前後正龍，兩肩行龍。 餘皆與皇子福晉同。 側福晉冠頂等各飾東珠九。 服與嫡福晉同。 並按崇德元年，定親王嫡妃冠頂嵌東珠八，側妃嵌東珠七。 順治九年，定嫡妃冠頂增嵌東珠二。 服用翟鳥四團龍補、五爪龍緞、妝緞、滿翠四補等緞。 側妃冠頂增嵌東珠二。 服與嫡妃同。
An Imperial Prince's princess consort wore a festive surcoat embroidered with four roundels of five-claw gold dragons—front-facing dragons front and back and striding dragons on the shoulders. In all other respects her regalia matched that of an Imperial Son's princess consort. A secondary princess consort's crown top and comparable ornaments each bore nine eastern pearls. Her robes matched those of the principal princess consort. Under the regulations of Chongde 1, an Imperial Prince's principal consort inlaid eight eastern pearls in her crown top, and a secondary consort seven. In Shunzhi 9 the principal consort's crown top gained two additional inlaid eastern pearls. Her robes included pheasant four-roundel dragon badges, five-claw dragon satin, brocade satin, and full-emerald four-badge satin. The secondary consort's crown top likewise gained two inlaid eastern pearls. Her robes matched those of the principal consort.
97
世子福晉朝冠，頂鏤金二層，飾東珠九，上銜紅寶石。 硃緯。 上周綴金孔雀五，飾東珠各六。 後金孔雀一，垂珠三行二就。 中間金銜青金石結一，飾東珠各三，末綴珊瑚。 冠後護領垂金黃絛二，末亦綴珊瑚。 青綴為帶。
An heir apparent's princess consort wore a court crown with a two-tier gilt top set with nine eastern pearls and topped by a red gemstone. Vermilion tassels. Five gold peacocks encircled the upper band, each set with six eastern pearls. At the rear stood one gold peacock from which pearl strands fell in three rows of two tiers. At center a gold mount held a lapis knot set with three eastern pearls, terminating in coral. From the rear neck-guard hung two golden yellow cords tipped with coral. A blue satin band served as the tie.
98
金約，鏤金雲八，飾東珠各一，間以青金石。 後系金銜青金石結，垂珠三行三就。 中間金銜青金石結二，每具飾東珠珍珠各四，末綴珊瑚。 餘皆與親王福晉同。 順治九年，定世子嫡妃冠服如親王側妃。 其側妃冠頂嵌東珠八。 服與嫡妃同。
The gold forehead band was pierced with eight gilt clouds, each set with one eastern pearl spaced with lapis lazuli. At the back hung a gold-mounted lapis boss from which pearl strands fell in three rows of three tiers. At center sat two gold-mounted lapis knots, each set with four eastern pearls and four ordinary pearls, finished with coral pendants. In all other respects her regalia matched that of an Imperial Prince's princess consort. In Shunzhi 9 the heir apparent's principal consort was assigned crown and robes identical to an Imperial Prince's secondary consort. Her secondary consort inlaid eight eastern pearls in the crown top. Her robes matched those of the principal consort.
99
郡王福晉朝冠，頂鏤金二層，飾東珠八，上銜紅寶石。 硃緯。 上周綴金孔雀五，飾東珠各五。 後金孔雀一，垂珠三行二就。 中間金銜青金石結一，末綴珊瑚。 冠後護領垂金黃絛二，末亦綴珊瑚。 青緞為帶。 吉服冠與世子福晉同。
A prince of the commandery's princess consort wore a court crown with a two-tier gilt top set with eight eastern pearls and topped by a red gemstone. Vermilion tassels. Five gold peacocks encircled the upper band, each set with five eastern pearls. At the rear stood one gold peacock from which pearl strands fell in three rows of two tiers. At center a gold mount held a lapis knot, terminating in coral. From the rear neck-guard hung two golden yellow cords tipped with coral. A blue satin band served as the tie. The festive crown matched that of an heir apparent's princess consort.
100
金約，鏤金雲八，飾東珠各一，間以青金石。 後系金銜青金石結，垂珠三行三就。 中間金銜青金石結二，末綴珊瑚。
The gold forehead band was pierced with eight gilt clouds, each set with one eastern pearl spaced with lapis lazuli. At the back hung a gold-mounted lapis boss from which pearl strands fell in three rows of three tiers. At center sat two gold-mounted lapis knots, each finished with coral pendants.
101
吉服褂，綉五爪行龍四團，前後兩肩各一。 餘皆與世子福晉同。 崇德元年，定郡王嫡妃冠頂嵌東珠七，側妃嵌東珠六。 順治九年，定嫡妃冠服與世子側妃同。 其側妃冠頂嵌東珠七。 服用蟒緞、妝緞，各色花、表緞。
The festive surcoat bore four roundels of five-claw striding dragons—one on the front, one on the back, and one on each shoulder. In all other respects her regalia matched that of an heir apparent's princess consort. Under Chongde 1 a prince of the commandery's principal consort inlaid seven eastern pearls in her crown top, and a secondary consort six. In Shunzhi 9 the principal consort received crown and robes identical to those of an heir apparent's secondary consort. Her secondary consort inlaid seven eastern pearls in the crown top. Her robes included python satin, brocade satin, and floral and facing satins in various colors.
102
貝勒夫人朝冠，頂鏤金二層，飾東珠七，上銜紅寶石。 硃緯。 上周綴金孔雀五，飾東珠各三。 後金孔雀一，垂珠三行二就。 中間金銜青金石結一，末綴珊瑚。 冠後護領垂石青絛二，末亦綴珊瑚。 吉服冠與郡王福晉同。
A beile's lady wore a court crown with a two-tier gilt top set with seven eastern pearls and topped by a red gemstone. Vermilion tassels. Five gold peacocks encircled the upper band, each set with three eastern pearls. At the rear stood one gold peacock from which pearl strands fell in three rows of two tiers. At center a gold mount held a lapis knot, terminating in coral. From the rear neck-guard hung two stone-blue cords tipped with coral. The festive crown matched that of a prince of the commandery's princess consort.
103
金約，鏤金雲七。 餘同郡王福晉。 耳飾亦與郡王福晉同。
The gold forehead band was pierced with seven gilt clouds. In all other respects her regalia matched that of a prince of the commandery's princess consort. Her ear ornaments likewise matched those of a prince of the commandery's princess consort.
104
朝褂，綉四爪蟒，領後垂石青絛。 吉服褂前後綉四爪正蟒各一。 餘與郡王福晉同。
The court surcoat bore four-claw pythons, with stone-blue cords hanging from the rear collar. The festive surcoat bore one four-claw upright python embroidered on the front and one on the back. In all other respects her attire matched that of a prince of the commandery's princess consort.
105
朝袍，藍及石青諸色隨所用，領、袖片金緣，冬用片金加海龍緣。 綉四爪蟒，領後垂石青絛。 蟒袍通綉九蟒。 領約、朝珠、采帨絛用石青色。 餘皆與郡王福晉同。 崇德元年，定貝勒嫡夫人冠頂嵌東珠六。 側夫人嵌東珠五。 順治九年，定嫡夫人冠頂、服飾如郡王側妃，其側夫人冠頂嵌東珠六。 服與嫡夫人同。
The court robe might be blue or stone-blue as worn, with gilt-edged collar and sleeves—and in winter, gilt edging plus sea-dragon trim. It was embroidered with four-claw pythons, with stone-blue cords hanging from the rear collar. The python robe was fully embroidered with nine pythons. The collar clasp, court beads, ceremonial sash, and cords were all stone-blue. In all other respects her regalia matched that of a prince of the commandery's princess consort. Under Chongde 1 a beile's principal lady inlaid six eastern pearls in her crown top. A secondary lady inlaid five eastern pearls. In Shunzhi 9 the principal lady received a crown top and robes identical to a prince of the commandery's secondary consort, while her secondary lady inlaid six eastern pearls in the crown top. Her robes matched those of the principal lady.
106
貝子夫人朝冠，頂鏤金二層，飾東珠六。 金約鏤金雲六，吉服褂前後綉四爪行蟒各一。 餘皆與貝勒夫人同，崇德元年，定貝子嫡夫人冠頂嵌東珠五。 側夫人嵌東珠四。 順治九年，定嫡夫人冠頂服飾如郡王側妃。 其側夫人冠頂嵌東珠五。 服與嫡夫人同。
A beizi's lady wore a court crown with a two-tier gilt top set with six eastern pearls. The gold forehead band bore six gilt clouds, and the festive surcoat one four-claw striding python embroidered on the front and one on the back. In all other respects her regalia matched a beile's lady; under Chongde 1 a beizi's principal lady inlaid five eastern pearls in her crown top. A secondary lady inlaid four eastern pearls. In Shunzhi 9 the principal lady received a crown top and robes identical to those of a prince of the commandery's secondary consort. Her secondary lady inlaid five eastern pearls in the crown top. Her robes matched those of the principal lady.
107
鎮國公夫人朝冠，頂鏤金二層，飾東珠五。 金約鏤金雲五。 吉服褂繡花八團。 餘皆與貝子夫人同。 崇德元年，定鎮國公嫡夫人冠頂嵌東珠四。 順治九年，定嵌東珠五。 服如貝子夫人。 其側夫人冠頂嵌東珠四。 服與嫡夫人同。
A duke who stabilizes the realm's lady wore a court crown with a two-tier gilt top set with five eastern pearls. The gold forehead band bore five gilt clouds. The festive surcoat bore eight floral roundels. In all other respects her regalia matched that of a beizi's lady. Under Chongde 1 a duke who stabilizes the realm's principal lady inlaid four eastern pearls in her crown top. In Shunzhi 9 the inlaid count was fixed at five eastern pearls. Her robes followed those of a beizi's lady. Her secondary lady inlaid four eastern pearls in the crown top. Her robes matched those of the principal lady.
108
輔國公夫人朝冠，頂鏤金二層，飾東珠四。 金約鏤金雲四。 餘皆與鎮國公夫人同。 崇德元年，定輔國公夫人冠頂嵌東珠三。 順治九年，定冠頂嵌東珠四。 服如貝子夫人。 其側夫人冠頂嵌東珠三。 服與嫡夫人同。
A duke who assists the realm's lady wore a court crown with a two-tier gilt top set with four eastern pearls. Its forehead band carried four openwork golden cloud ornaments. In all other respects her attire followed that of a state-guarding duke's wife. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a state-assisting duke's wife should bear three Eastern pearls in her crown peak. In the ninth year of Shunzhi the crown peak was set to bear four Eastern pearls. Her dress followed that of a beizi's wife. The secondary consort's crown peak bore three Eastern pearls. Her dress matched that of the principal consort.
109
鎮國將軍夫人冠、服均視一品命婦。
A state-guarding general's wife wore cap and dress equivalent to those of a first-rank titled lady.
110
輔國將軍夫人冠、服均視二品命婦。
A state-assisting general's wife wore cap and dress equivalent to those of a second-rank titled lady.
111
奉國將軍淑人冠、服均視三品命婦。
Lady Shu, consort of a state-supporting general, wore cap and dress equivalent to those of a third-rank titled lady.
112
奉恩將軍恭人冠、服均視四品命婦。
Lady Gong, consort of a grace-receiving general, wore cap and dress equivalent to those of a fourth-rank titled lady.
113
固倫公主冠、服制如親王福晉。 崇德元年，定固倫公主冠頂嵌東珠八。 順治九年，定冠頂增嵌東珠二。 服用翟鳥五爪四團龍補、五爪龍緞、妝緞、滿翠四補等緞。
A Princess of the First Rank wore cap and dress on the model of a prince's princess consort. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a Princess of the First Rank should bear eight Eastern pearls in her crown peak. In the ninth year of Shunzhi two more Eastern pearls were added to the crown peak. Her dress included pheasant roundels, five-claw dragon badges and satin, brocaded satin, and four-badge satins worked in full kingfisher feather, among other fabrics.
114
和碩公主朝冠、金約，制如親王世子福晉。 餘與固倫公主同。 崇德元年，定和碩公主冠頂嵌東珠六。 順治九年，定冠頂增嵌東珠二。 服與固倫公主同。
A Princess of the Second Rank wore a court cap and forehead band on the model of a prince's heir's princess consort. In all other respects her attire followed that of a Princess of the First Rank. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a Princess of the Second Rank should bear six Eastern pearls in her crown peak. In the ninth year of Shunzhi two more Eastern pearls were added to the crown peak. Her dress followed that of a Princess of the First Rank.
115
郡主朝冠、金約，制如郡王福晉。 餘與和碩公主同。 崇德元年，定郡主冠頂嵌東珠六。 順治九年，定冠頂增嵌東珠二。 服與和碩公主同。
A commandery princess wore a court cap and forehead band on the model of a commandery prince's princess consort. In all other respects her attire followed that of a Princess of the Second Rank. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a commandery princess should bear six Eastern pearls in her crown peak. In the ninth year of Shunzhi two more Eastern pearls were added to the crown peak. Her dress followed that of a Princess of the Second Rank.
116
縣主朝冠、金約，制如貝勒夫人。 吉服褂制如郡王福晉。 餘與郡主同。 崇德元年，定縣主冠頂嵌東珠五。 順治九年，定冠頂增嵌東珠二。 服用蟒緞、妝緞，各樣花、素緞。
A county princess wore a court cap and forehead band on the model of a beile's wife. Her auspicious-dress jacket followed that of a commandery prince's princess consort. In all other respects her attire followed that of a commandery princess. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a county princess should bear five Eastern pearls in her crown peak. In the ninth year of Shunzhi two more Eastern pearls were added to the crown peak. Her dress included python satin, brocaded satin, and plain and patterned satins of every description.
117
郡君朝冠、金約，制如貝子夫人。 朝褂、龍袍、領約、朝珠、采帨、吉服褂、蟒袍均如貝勒夫人。 餘同縣主。 崇德元年，定郡君冠頂嵌東珠四。 順治九年，定冠服與縣主同。
A commandery lady wore a court cap and forehead band on the model of a beizi's wife. Her court surcoat, dragon robe, collar clasp, court beads, ceremonial sash, auspicious-dress jacket, and python robe all followed a beile's wife's regulations. In all other respects her attire followed that of a county princess. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a commandery lady should bear four Eastern pearls in her crown peak. In the ninth year of Shunzhi her cap and dress were fixed as identical to a county princess's.
118
縣君朝冠、金約，制如鎮國公夫人。 吉服褂制如貝子夫人。 餘皆與郡君同。 崇德元年，定縣君冠頂嵌東珠三。 順治九年，定冠頂增嵌東珠二。 服與郡君同。
A county lady wore a court cap and forehead band on the model of a state-guarding duke's wife. Her auspicious-dress jacket followed that of a beizi's wife. In all other respects her attire followed that of a commandery lady. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a county lady should bear three Eastern pearls in her crown peak. In the ninth year of Shunzhi two more Eastern pearls were added to the crown peak. Her dress followed that of a commandery lady.
119
鎮國公女鄉君朝冠、金約，制如輔國公夫人。 吉服褂制如鎮國公夫人。 餘同縣君。
A township lady born to a state-guarding duke wore a court cap and forehead band on the model of a state-assisting duke's wife. Her auspicious-dress jacket followed that of a state-guarding duke's wife. In all other respects her attire followed that of a county lady.
120
輔國公女鄉君朝冠，頂鏤金二層，飾東珠三。 金約鏤金雲三。 餘與鎮國公女鄉君同。 崇德元年，定鄉君冠頂嵌東珠二。 順治九年，定鎮國公女鄉君冠頂嵌東珠三。 服與縣君同。
A township lady born to a state-assisting duke wore a court cap with two tiers of openwork gold set with three Eastern pearls. Its forehead band carried three openwork golden cloud ornaments. In all other respects her attire followed that of a township lady born to a state-guarding duke. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that a township lady should bear two Eastern pearls in her crown peak. In the ninth year of Shunzhi it was ordained that a township lady born to a state-guarding duke should bear three Eastern pearls in her crown peak. Her dress followed that of a county lady.
121
王、貝勒側室女，封授視嫡降二等。 冠、服各視所降品級服用。 貝子、鎮國公、輔國公側室女，雖降等食五品、六品俸，其冠服仍與鄉君同。
Daughters of princes' and beile's secondary consorts were enfeoffed two ranks below principal daughters. Cap and dress each followed the reduced rank. Daughters of beizi and state-guarding and state-assisting dukes' secondary consorts, though demoted to fifth- or sixth-rank stipends, still wore the cap and dress of a township lady.
122
民公夫人朝冠，冬用薰貂，夏以青絨為之。 頂鏤花金座，飾東珠四，上銜紅寶石。 前綴金簪三，飾以珠寶。 護領絛用石青色。 吉服冠，薰貂為之，頂用珊瑚。 金約青緞為之，紅片金里。 中綴鏤金火焰，飾珍珠一，左右金龍鳳各一。 後垂青緞帶二，亦紅片金里。 耳飾左右各三，每具金雲銜珠各二。
A commoner duke's wife wore a court cap of scented marten in winter and blue velvet in summer. The peak bore an openwork floral golden mount set with four Eastern pearls and surmounted by a ruby. Three golden hairpins were fixed in front, set with pearls and gems. The collar-guard ribbons were azurite blue. Her auspicious-dress cap was of scented marten, its peak set with coral. The forehead band was blue satin lined with red gilt strips. At the center hung an openwork golden flame set with a pearl; on either side stood a golden dragon and a golden phoenix. Two blue satin ribbons hung behind, likewise lined with red gilt strips. She wore three ear ornaments on each side; each bore two golden cloud motifs clasping pearls.
123
朝褂，色用石青，片金緣。 綉文前行蟒二，後行蟒一。 領後垂石青★，雜佩惟宜。 朝袍，藍及石青諸色隨所用。 披領及袖皆石青，冬用片金加海龍緣。 綉文前後正蟒各一，兩肩行蟒各一，襟行蟒四，中無襞積。 披領行蟒二，袖端正蟒各一，袖相接處行蟒各二。 後垂石青絛，雜佩惟宜。 吉服褂色用石青，繡花八團。
Her court surcoat was azurite blue with gilt edging. It was embroidered with two coiling pythons across the front and one across the back. An azurite-blue ribbon hung behind the collar; other pendants as suited the occasion. Her court robe was blue or azurite blue, as worn. Collar cape and sleeves were wholly azurite blue; in winter gilt strips and sea-otter fur trim were added. It was embroidered with an upright python on the breast and back, a coiling python on each shoulder, four coiling pythons on the lapel, and no pleats at the center. The collar cape bore two coiling pythons; each cuff an upright python; and at each sleeve join, two coiling pythons. An azurite-blue ribbon hung behind; other pendants as suited the occasion. Her auspicious-dress jacket was azurite blue, embroidered with eight floral roundels.
124
蟒袍，藍及石青諸色隨所用，通四爪九蟒。 領約鏤金為之，飾紅藍小寶石五。 兩端垂石青絛二，中貫珊瑚。 末綴珊瑚各二。
Her python robe was blue or azurite blue as worn, embroidered throughout with nine four-claw pythons. The collar clasp was openwork gold set with five small red and blue gems. From either end hung two azurite-blue ribbons, threaded with coral at the center. Each end bore two coral pendants.
125
朝珠，朝服用三，吉服用一。 珊瑚、青金、蜜珀、綠松隨所用，雜飾惟宜。 絛用石青色。 采帨，月白色，不繡花，雜飾惟宜。 絛皆石青色。 朝裙，夏片金緣，冬加海龍緣，上用紅緞，下石青行蟒、妝緞，皆正幅，有襞積。 崇德元年，定未入八分公夫人冠頂服飾，惟正室視其夫品級服用。
She wore three strands of court beads for court dress and one for auspicious dress. Coral, lapis lazuli, amber, and turquoise were worn as suited; other ornaments likewise. The ribbons were azurite blue. Her ceremonial sash was moon-white and unembroidered; other ornaments as suited the occasion. All ribbons were azurite blue. Her court skirt had gilt edging in summer and sea-otter fur trim in winter; the upper panel was red satin, the lower azurite-blue coiling-python and brocaded satin—all full panels, with pleats. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that among wives of dukes outside the Eight Privileges, only the principal wife wore cap, peak, and dress according to her husband's rank.
126
侯夫人朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠三，上銜紅寶石，餘皆如民公夫人。
A marquis's wife wore a court cap with an openwork floral golden mount bearing three Eastern pearls and surmounted by a ruby; in all other respects her attire followed a commoner duke's wife's.
127
伯夫人朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠二，上銜紅寶石，餘皆如侯夫人。
An earl's wife wore a court cap with an openwork floral golden mount bearing two Eastern pearls and surmounted by a ruby; in all other respects her attire followed a marquis's wife's.
128
子夫人朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠一，上銜紅寶石，餘皆如伯夫人。
A viscount's wife wore a court cap with an openwork floral golden mount bearing one Eastern pearl and surmounted by a ruby; in all other respects her attire followed an earl's wife's.
129
男夫人朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾紅寶石一，上銜鏤花紅珊瑚。 吉服冠頂鏤花珊瑚。 餘皆如子夫人。
A baron's wife wore a court cap with an openwork floral golden mount bearing one ruby and surmounted by openwork red coral. Her auspicious-dress cap peak was openwork coral. In all other respects her attire followed a viscount's wife's.
130
文一品朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠一，上銜紅寶石。 補服前後綉鶴，惟都御史綉獬豸。 朝帶鏤金銜玉方版四，每具飾紅寶石一。 餘皆如公。
The civil rank-one court cap bore an openwork floral golden mount set with one Eastern pearl and surmounted by a ruby. The badge surcoat bore cranes front and back—save for the censor-in-chief, who wore the xiezhi. The court belt bore four square jade plaques in openwork gold mounts, each set with a ruby. In all other respects his attire followed a duke's.
131
武一品補服，前後綉麒麟。 餘皆如文一品。
The military rank-one badge surcoat bore qilin embroidery front and back. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank one.
132
文二品朝冠，冬用薰貂，十一月至上元用貂尾，頂鏤花金座，中飾小紅寶石一，上銜鏤花珊瑚。 吉服冠頂亦用鏤花珊瑚。 補服前後綉錦雞。 朝帶鏤金圓版四，每具飾紅寶石一。 餘皆如文一品。
The civil rank-two court cap was scented marten in winter and marten tail from the first of the eleventh month through the Lantern Festival; its openwork floral golden mount bore one small ruby and was surmounted by openwork coral. The auspicious-dress cap peak likewise used openwork coral. The badge surcoat bore golden pheasants front and back. The court belt bore four openwork gold round plaques, each set with a ruby. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank one.
133
武二品補服，前後綉獅。 餘皆如文二品。
The military rank-two badge surcoat bore lion embroidery front and back. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank two.
134
文三品朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小紅寶石一，上銜藍寶石。 吉服冠頂亦用藍寶石。 補服前後綉孔雀，惟副都御史及按察使前後綉獬豸。 朝帶鏤花金圓版。 餘皆如文二品。
The civil rank-three court cap bore an openwork floral golden mount set with one small ruby and surmounted by a blue gemstone. The auspicious-dress cap peak likewise used a blue gemstone. The badge surcoat bore peacocks front and back—save for the vice censor-in-chief and the provincial surveillance commissioner, who wore the xiezhi. The court belt bore openwork gold round plaques. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank two.
135
武三品朝冠，冬用薰貂，補服前後綉豹。 餘皆如文三品。 惟朝服無貂緣及無端罩。 一等侍衛戴孔雀翎。 端罩猞猁猻，間以貂皮，月白緞里。 餘如武三品。
The military rank-three court cap was scented marten in winter; the badge surcoat bore leopards front and back. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank three. Only in the court dress were marten edging and the formal surcoat omitted. First-rank imperial guards wore peacock plumes. The formal surcoat was lynx cat, striped with marten fur and lined in moon-white satin. In all other respects his attire followed military rank three.
136
文四品朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾藍寶石一，上銜青金石。 吉服冠頂亦用青金石。 補服前後綉雁，惟道綉獬豸。 蟒袍通綉四爪八蟒。 朝帶銀銜鏤花金圓版四。 餘皆如文三品。
The civil rank-four court cap bore an openwork floral golden mount set with one blue gemstone and surmounted by lapis lazuli. The auspicious-dress cap peak likewise used lapis lazuli. The badge surcoat bore wild geese front and back—save for Daoist officials, who wore the xiezhi. The python robe was embroidered throughout with eight four-claw pythons. The court belt bore four openwork gold round plaques in silver mounts. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank three.
137
武四品補服，前後綉虎。 餘皆如文四品。 二等侍衛戴孔雀翎。 端罩紅豹皮為之，素紅緞里。 朝服冬、夏均翦絨緣，色用石青，通身雲緞，前後方襴行蟒各一，腰帷行蟒四，中有襞積。 領、袖俱石青妝緞，餘如武四品。
The military rank-four badge surcoat bore tiger embroidery front and back. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank four. Second-rank imperial guards wore peacock plumes. The formal surcoat was made of red leopard fur with a plain red satin lining. The court dress, winter and summer alike, had cut-pile trim in stone-blue cloud brocade throughout—one striding-python square badge front and back, four striding pythons on the waist panel, and gathered pleats in the middle. Collar and sleeves were stone-blue brocaded satin; in all other respects his attire followed military rank four.
138
文五品朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小藍寶石一，上銜水晶石。 吉服冠頂亦用水晶。 補服前後綉白鷳，惟給事中、御史綉獬豸。 朝服色用石青，片金緣，通身雲緞，前後方襴行蟒各一，中有襞積。 領、袖俱用石青妝緞。 朝帶銀銜素金圓版四。 餘皆如文四品。
The civil rank-five court cap bore an openwork floral golden mount set with one small blue gemstone and surmounted by rock crystal. The auspicious-dress cap peak likewise used crystal. The badge surcoat bore silver pheasants front and back—save for supervising secretaries and censors, who wore the xiezhi. The court dress was stone-blue cloud brocade with gilt strip edging—one striding-python square badge front and back, and gathered pleats in the middle. Collar and sleeves were stone-blue brocaded satin. The court belt bore four plain gold round plaques in silver mounts. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank four.
139
武五品補服，前後綉熊。 餘皆如文五品。 惟無朝珠。 三等侍衛戴孔雀翎。 端罩黃狐皮為之，月白緞里。 朝服冬、夏俱翦絨緣。 餘如武五品，惟得用朝珠。
The military rank-five badge surcoat bore bear embroidery front and back. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank five. Court beads alone were omitted. Third-rank imperial guards wore peacock plumes. The formal surcoat was made of yellow fox fur with a moon-white satin lining. The court dress, winter and summer alike, had cut-pile trim. In all other respects his attire followed military rank five—except that court beads were permitted.
140
文六品朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小藍寶石一，上銜硨磲。 吉服冠頂亦用硨磲。 補服前後綉鷺鷥，朝帶銀銜玳瑁圓版四。 餘皆如文五品，惟無朝珠。 五品官以下，惟京堂、翰詹、科道得用貂裘、朝珠。 六品官以下，惟太常寺、鴻臚寺、光祿寺、國子監所屬官，壇廟執事、殿庭侍儀得用朝珠。
The civil rank-six court cap bore an openwork floral golden mount set with one small blue gemstone and surmounted by giant-clam shell. The auspicious-dress cap peak likewise used giant-clam shell. The badge surcoat bore egrets front and back; the court belt bore four tortoiseshell round plaques in silver mounts. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank five—except that court beads were omitted. Below the fifth rank, only capital department officials, Hanlin and Imperial Diaries staff, and censorate and supervising secretaries might wear marten fur coats and court beads. Below the sixth rank, only subordinate officials of the Courts of Imperial Sacrifices, Imperial Entertainments, and Imperial Household Revenue and the Directorate of Education, together with altar and temple officiants and palace ceremony attendants, might wear court beads.
141
武六品補服，前後綉彪。 餘皆如文六品。 藍翎侍衛朝冠頂飾小藍寶石一，上銜硨磲，戴藍翎。 端罩、朝服、朝珠均同三等侍衛。 餘如武六品。
The military rank-six badge surcoat bore leopard-cat embroidery front and back. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank six. A blue-plume guard wore a court cap peak set with one small blue gemstone and surmounted by giant-clam shell, with a blue plume. Formal surcoat, court dress, and court beads all matched those of third-rank guards. In all other respects his attire followed military rank six.
142
文七品朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小水晶一，上銜素金。 吉服冠頂亦用素金。 補服前後綉鸂鶒，朝帶素圓版四。 蟒袍通綉四爪五蟒。 餘皆如文六品。
The civil rank-seven court cap bore an openwork floral golden mount set with one small crystal and surmounted by plain gold. The auspicious-dress cap peak likewise used plain gold. The badge surcoat bore mandarin ducks front and back; the court belt bore four plain round plaques. The python robe was embroidered throughout with five four-claw pythons. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank six.
143
武七品補服，前後綉犀牛。 餘皆如文七品。
The military rank-seven badge surcoat bore rhinoceros embroidery front and back. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank seven.
144
文八品朝冠，鏤花陰文，金頂無飾。 吉服冠同。 補服前後綉鵪鶉。 朝服色用石青雲緞，無蟒。 領、袖冬、夏皆青倭緞，中有襞積。 朝帶銀銜明羊角圓版四。 餘皆如文七品。
The civil rank-eight court cap had an incised openwork pattern and an unadorned gold peak. The auspicious-dress cap was the same. The badge surcoat bore quail embroidery front and back. The court dress was stone-blue cloud brocade without python motifs. Collar and sleeves, winter and summer alike, were blue Japanese satin, with gathered pleats in the middle. The court belt bore four transparent ram-horn round plaques in silver mounts. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank seven.
145
武八品補服如武七品。 餘皆如文八品。
The military rank-eight badge surcoat followed military rank seven. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank eight.
146
文九品朝冠，鏤花陽文，金頂。 吉服冠同。 補服前後綉練雀。 朝帶銀銜烏角圓版四。 餘皆如文八品。
The civil rank-nine court cap had a raised openwork pattern and a gold peak. The auspicious-dress cap was the same. The badge surcoat bore paradise-flycatcher embroidery front and back. The court belt bore four black-horn round plaques in silver mounts. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank eight.
147
武九品補服，前後綉海馬。 餘皆如文九品。
The military rank-nine badge surcoat bore seahorse embroidery front and back. In all other respects his attire followed civil rank nine.
148
未入流冠服制如文九品。
Unranked officials wore crown and dress on the model of civil rank nine.
149
凡雨冠，民公、侯、伯、子、男，一、二、三品文、武官，御前侍衛，乾清門侍衛，上書房、南書房翰林，批本處行走人員，皆用紅色。 四、五、六品文、武官，雨冠中用紅色，青緣。 七、八、九、品文、武官，雨冠中用青色，紅緣。 雨衣、雨裳，民公、侯、伯、子，文、武一品官，御前侍衛，各省督、撫，皆用紅色。 二品以下文、武官，皆用青色。 其明黃色行褂，則領侍衛大臣、御前大臣、侍衛班長、護軍統領、健銳營翼領及凡諸臣之蒙賜者，皆得用之。
Rain caps were red for commoner dukes through barons; civil and military officials of ranks one through three; imperial guards before the throne; Qianqing Gate guards; Upper and Southern Studio Hanlin; and staff of the memorial-drafting office. For civil and military officials of ranks four through six, rain caps were red within and blue-edged. For civil and military officials of ranks seven through nine, rain caps were blue within and red-edged. Rain capes and rain skirts were red for commoner dukes through viscounts; civil and military rank-one officials; imperial guards before the throne; and provincial governors and governors-general. Civil and military officials from rank two down all wore blue. The bright imperial yellow traveling jacket might be worn by the chief guard minister, imperial guard minister, guard squad leaders, banner guard commanders, vanguard brigade wing commanders, and any official so granted by the throne.
150
凡帶，親王以下、宗室以上，皆束金黃帶。 覺羅紅帶。 其金黃帶、紅帶，非上賜者，不得給予異姓。
From imperial princes down through the imperial clan, all wore golden yellow belts. Jueluo wore red belts. Golden yellow belts and red belts, unless bestowed by the throne, could not be given to persons of other surnames.
151
凡朝珠，王公以下，文職五品、武職四品以上及翰詹、科道、侍衛，公主、福晉以下，五品官命婦以上均得用。 以雜寶及諸香為之。 禮部主事，太常寺博士、典簿、讀祝官、贊禮郎，鴻臚寺鳴贊，光祿寺署正、署丞、典簿，國子監監丞、博士、助教、學正、學錄，除在壇廟執事及殿廷侍儀准用，其平時燕處及在公署，仍不得用。
Court beads might be worn from princes and dukes down; by civil officials of the fifth rank and above and military officials of the fourth rank and above; by Hanlin and Imperial Diaries staff, censorate and supervising secretaries, and guards; and by princesses and princess consorts down through titled ladies of the fifth rank and above. They were made of assorted gems and various aromatics. Directors of the Ministry of Rites and the listed officials of the Courts of Imperial Sacrifices, Imperial Entertainments, and Imperial Household Revenue and the Directorate of Education might wear court beads only when officiating at altars and temples or attending palace ceremonies—not in ordinary leisure or at government offices.
152
凡孔雀翎，翎端三眼者，貝子戴之。 二眼者，鎮國公、輔國公、和碩額駙戴之。 一眼者，內大臣，一、二、三、四等侍衛，前鋒、護軍各統領、參領，前鋒侍衛，諸王府長史，散騎郎，二等護衛，均得戴之。 翎根並綴藍翎。 貝勒府司儀長，親王以下二、三等護衛及前鋒、親軍、護軍校，均戴染藍翎。
Peacock plumes with three eyes at the tip were worn by beizi. Those with two eyes were worn by state-guarding and state-assisting dukes and by imperial sons-in-law of princesses of the second rank. Those with one eye might be worn by inner ministers; first- through fourth-rank guards; vanguard and banner guard commanders and adjutants; vanguard guards; princely household chief secretaries; masters of cavalry; and second-rank bodyguards. A blue plume was also attached at the root of the plume. Chief masters of ceremony of a princely household, second- and third-rank bodyguards of princes and below, and vanguard, personal guard, and banner guard corporals all wore dyed blue plumes.
153
凡坐褥，親王冬用貂，夏用龍文赤繒。 世子、郡王冬用猞猁猻、緣貂，夏蟒文青繒。 貝勒冬用猞猁猻，夏青繒施采。 貝子冬用白豹，夏采繒緣青繒。 均藉紅白氈。 鎮國公冬用全赤豹皮，夏青花赤繒。 輔國公冬用方赤豹皮，夏赤花皁繒。 均藉紅氈。 鎮國將軍視一品，輔國將軍視二品，奉國將軍視三品，奉恩將軍視四品。 民公冬用全虎皮，夏皁繒。 侯、伯冬均用方虎皮，夏侯用緣花皁繒。 伯用青雲繒。 均藉紅氈。 子、男各從其品。 固倫公主額駙視貝子。 和碩公主額駙視鎮國公。 郡主額駙冬用貛，夏皁褐緣紅褐。 均藉紅氈。 郡君額駙視三品。 縣君額駙視四品。 鄉君額駙視五品。 文、武官一品冬用狼，夏紅褐。 二品冬用貛，夏紅褐緣皁褐。 三品冬用貉，夏皁褐緣紅褐。 四品冬用青山羊，夏皁布。 均藉紅氈。 五品冬用青羊，夏青布。 六品冬用黑羊，夏椶色布。 七品冬用鹿，夏灰色布。 八品冬用狍，夏土布。 九品冬用獺，夏與八品同。 均藉白氈。
Imperial princes used marten seat cushions in winter and red dragon-pattern silk in summer. Heirs apparent and commandery princes used lynx cat and marten-edged fur in winter and blue python-pattern silk in summer. Beile used lynx cat in winter and blue silk with colored patterns in summer. Beizi used white leopard in winter and colored silk edged with blue silk in summer. All were laid on red and white felt. State-guarding dukes used whole red leopard fur in winter and blue-flowered red silk in summer. State-assisting dukes used square red leopard fur in winter and red-flowered black silk in summer. All were laid on red felt. State-guarding generals were treated as rank one; state-assisting generals as rank two; state-supporting generals as rank three; and grace-receiving generals as rank four. Commoner Dukes used whole tiger skins in winter and black brocade in summer. Marquises and earls alike used square tiger skins in winter; marquises in summer used bordered flower-pattern black brocade. Earls used blue-cloud brocade. All were set on red felt. Viscounts and barons each followed their own rank. A Gulun Princess Consort followed beizi regulations. A Heshuo Princess Consort followed the regulations for a duke who guards the state. A Commandery Princess Consort used badger in winter and black-brown bordered with red-brown in summer. All were set on red felt. A Commandery Lady Consort followed rank-three regulations. A County Lady Consort followed rank-four regulations. A Township Lady Consort followed rank-five regulations. Civil and military rank-one officials used wolf in winter and red-brown in summer. Rank two used badger in winter and red-brown bordered with black-brown in summer. Rank three used raccoon dog in winter and black-brown bordered with red-brown in summer. Rank four used blue mountain goat in winter and black cloth in summer. All were set on red felt. Rank five used blue sheep in winter and blue cloth in summer. Rank six used black sheep in winter and palm-brown cloth in summer. Rank seven used deer in winter and gray cloth in summer. Rank eight used roe deer in winter and homespun cloth in summer. Rank nine used otter in winter and followed rank eight in summer. All were set on white felt.
154
凡寒燠更用冠服，每歲春季用涼朝冠及夾朝衣，秋季用暖朝冠及緣皮朝衣。 於三、九月內，或初五日，或十五日，或二十五日，酌擬一日。 均前一月由禮部奏請，得旨，通行各衙門一體遵照。
Court dress changed with the seasons: each spring brought the cool court crown and lined court robe, and each autumn the warm court crown and fur-trimmed court robe. Within the third and ninth months, the change fell on whichever of the fifth, fifteenth, or twenty-fifth day was chosen. One month beforehand the Ministry of Rites memorialized; once the decree was received, it was circulated to every office for uniform compliance.
155
凡文、武候補、候選官頂帶均與現任同。 崇德元年，定都統、尚書冠頂上銜紅寶石。 帶用金圓版四片，嵌紅寶石四。 內大臣、大學士、副都統、護軍統領、前鋒統領、侍郎冠頂上銜藍寶石。 帶用金圓版四片。 一等侍衛、護衛參領、學士、滿啟心郎、郎中冠頂上銜水晶。 帶用鋄金鐵版四片。 二等、三等侍衛，護衛，佐領，漢啟心郎，員外郎冠用金頂。 帶用鋄金圓鐵版四片。 護軍校、主事冠用金頂。 帶用鋄金圓鐵版二片。 順治二年，定一品官冠用起花金頂，上銜紅寶石，中嵌東珠一。 帶用金鑲方玉版四片，每片嵌紅寶石一。 二品官冠用起花金頂，上銜紅寶石，中嵌小紅寶石。 帶用起花金圓版四片，嵌紅寶石一。 三品官冠用起花金頂，上銜紅寶石，中嵌小藍寶石。 帶用起花金圓版四片。 四品官冠用起花金頂，上銜藍寶石，中嵌小藍寶石。 帶用起花金圓版四片，銀鑲邊。 五品官冠用起花金頂，上銜水晶，中嵌小藍寶石。 帶用素金圓版四片，銀鑲邊。 六品官冠用起花金頂，上銜水晶。 帶用玳瑁圓版四片，銀鑲邊。 七品官冠用起花金頂，中嵌小藍寶石。 帶用素銀圓版四片。 八品官冠用起花金頂。 帶用明羊角圓版四片，銀鑲邊。 九品官冠用起花銀頂。 帶用烏角圓版四片，銀鑲邊。 順治九年，定武官補服一品、二品用獅，三品用虎，四品用豹。 又雍正五年，定奉國將軍及三品官冠用起花珊瑚頂。 六品官冠用水晶石頂。
Civil and military officials awaiting appointment or candidacy wore the same cap insignia and belts as incumbents. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that commanders-in-chief and ministers should bear red gemstones on their crown peaks. The belt used four round gold plaques, each set with a red gemstone. Grand ministers, grand secretaries, deputy commanders-in-chief, banner commanders, vanguard commanders, and vice ministers bore blue gemstones on their crown peaks. The belt used four round gold plaques. First-rank guards, guard company commanders, academicians, Manchu qishinlang, and bureau directors bore rock crystal on their crown peaks. The belt used four gilt iron plaques. Second- and third-rank guards, guards, company commanders, Han qishinlang, and assistant bureau directors wore gold crown peaks. The belt used four round gilt iron plaques. Banner corporals and section chiefs wore gold crown peaks. The belt used two round gilt iron plaques. In the second year of Shunzhi rank-one caps were fixed with embossed gold peaks bearing a red gemstone above and one Eastern pearl at the center. The belt used four square jade plaques in gold mounts, each set with a red gemstone. Rank-two caps used embossed gold peaks bearing a red gemstone above and a small red gemstone at the center. The belt used four embossed gold round plaques, each set with a red gemstone. Rank-three caps used embossed gold peaks bearing a red gemstone above and a small blue gemstone at the center. The belt used four embossed gold round plaques. Rank-four caps used embossed gold peaks bearing a blue gemstone above and a small blue gemstone at the center. The belt used four embossed gold round plaques with silver edging. Rank-five caps used embossed gold peaks bearing rock crystal above and a small blue gemstone at the center. The belt used four plain gold round plaques with silver edging. Rank-six caps used embossed gold peaks bearing rock crystal. The belt used four tortoiseshell round plaques with silver edging. Rank-seven caps used embossed gold peaks with a small blue gemstone at the center. The belt used four plain silver round plaques. Rank-eight caps used embossed gold peaks. The belt used four translucent ram's-horn round plaques with silver edging. Rank-nine caps used embossed silver peaks. The belt used four black-horn round plaques with silver edging. In the ninth year of Shunzhi military badge surcoats were fixed: ranks one and two bore lions, rank three tigers, and rank four leopards. In the fifth year of Yongzheng it was further ordained that State Supporter Generals and rank-three officials should wear embossed coral crown peaks. Rank-six caps used rock-crystal peaks.
156
一品命婦朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾東珠一，上銜紅寶石。 餘皆如民公夫人。
A first-rank titled lady's court crown rose from an openwork floral golden mount set with one Eastern pearl and capped with a red gemstone. In all other respects her attire followed the Commoner Duke's wife.
157
二品命婦朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾紅寶石一，上銜鏤花珊瑚。 吉服冠頂亦用鏤花珊瑚。 餘皆如一品命婦。
A second-rank titled lady's court crown rose from an openwork floral golden mount set with one red gemstone and capped with openwork coral. The auspicious-dress crown peak likewise used openwork coral. In all other respects her attire followed that of a first-rank titled lady.
158
三品命婦朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾紅寶石一，上銜藍寶石。 吉服冠頂亦用藍寶石。 餘皆如二品命婦。
A third-rank titled lady's court crown rose from an openwork floral golden mount set with one red gemstone and capped with a blue gemstone. The auspicious-dress crown peak likewise used a blue gemstone. In all other respects her attire followed that of a second-rank titled lady.
159
四品命婦朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小藍寶石一，上銜青金石。 吉服冠頂亦用青金石，朝袍片金緣，綉文前後行蟒各二，中無襞積。 後垂石青絛，雜飾惟宜。 蟒袍通綉四爪八蟒。 朝裙片金緣，上用綠緞，下石青行蟒妝緞，均正幅，有襞積。 餘皆如三品命婦。
A fourth-rank titled lady's court crown rose from an openwork floral golden mount set with one small blue gemstone and capped with lapis lazuli. The auspicious-dress crown peak likewise used lapis lazuli; her court robe bore gilt edging and was embroidered with two coiling pythons front and back, without pleats at the center. A stone-blue cord hung at the rear, with such ornaments as were fitting. Her python robe was embroidered throughout with eight four-claw pythons. Her court skirt bore gilt edging: green satin above and stone-blue coiling-python brocaded satin below, both in full panels with pleats. In all other respects her attire followed that of a third-rank titled lady.
160
五品命婦朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小藍寶石一，上銜水晶。 吉服冠頂亦用水晶。 餘皆如四品命婦。
A fifth-rank titled lady's court crown rose from an openwork floral golden mount set with one small blue gemstone and capped with rock crystal. The auspicious-dress crown peak likewise used rock crystal. In all other respects her attire followed that of a fourth-rank titled lady.
161
六品命婦朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小藍寶石一，上銜硨磲。 吉服冠頂亦用硨磲。 餘皆如五品命婦。
A sixth-rank titled lady's court crown rose from an openwork floral golden mount set with one small blue gemstone and capped with tridacna. The auspicious-dress crown peak likewise used tridacna. In all other respects her attire followed that of a fifth-rank titled lady.
162
七品命婦朝冠，頂鏤花金座，中飾小水晶一，上銜素金。 吉服冠頂亦用素金。 蟒袍通綉五蟒。 餘皆如六品命婦。 崇德元年，定命婦冠、服各視其夫官階。 皇后侍從婦女冠用金頂，上銜紅寶石。 貴妃侍從婦女冠用金頂，上銜水晶石。 親、郡王妃侍從婦女與妃侍從婦女同。 貝勒夫人侍從婦女冠用金頂。 貝子夫人侍從婦女冠不用頂。 首飾嵌珍珠、寶石、綠松石。
A seventh-rank titled lady's court crown rose from an openwork floral golden mount set with one small rock crystal and capped with plain gold. The auspicious-dress crown peak likewise used plain gold. Her python robe was embroidered throughout with five pythons. In all other respects her attire followed that of a sixth-rank titled lady. In the first year of Chongde it was ordained that titled ladies' caps and dress should follow their husbands' official rank. The empress's attendant women wore gold crown peaks bearing red gemstones. The imperial noble consort's attendant women wore gold crown peaks bearing rock crystal. Attendant women of imperial and commandery princess consorts followed those of the consort's attendants. A beile's wife's attendant women wore gold crown peaks. A beizi's wife's attendant women wore no crown peak. Head ornaments were inlaid with pearls, gemstones, and turquoise.
163
會試中式貢士朝冠，頂鏤花金座，上銜金三枝九葉。 吉服冠頂用素金。 狀元金頂，上銜水晶。 授職後，各視其品。 舉人公服冠，頂鏤花銀座，上銜金雀。 公服袍，青綢藍緣。 披領如袍式。 公服帶，制如文八品朝帶。 吉服冠，頂銀座，上銜素金。 貢生吉服冠，鏤花金頂。 餘同舉人。 監生吉服冠，素銀頂。 餘同貢生。 生員冠，頂鏤花銀座，上銜銀雀。 公服袍，藍綢青緣。 披領如袍式。 公服帶，制如文九品朝帶。 吉服冠，頂與監生同。 外郎、耆老，冠頂以錫。 從耕農官，袍以青絨為之。 頂同八品。 祭祀文舞生冬冠，騷鼠為之，頂鏤花銅座，中飾方銅，鏤葵花，上銜銅三角，如火珠形。 袍以綢為之，其色南郊用石青，北郊用黑，各壇廟俱用紅，惟夕月壇用月白。 前後方襴銷金葵花。 帶用綠綢。 武舞生冠頂上銜銅三棱，如古戟形。 袍以綢為之，通銷金葵花。 餘俱與文舞生同。 樂部樂生，冠頂鏤花銅座，上植明黃翎。 樂部袍紅緞為之，一，前後方襴綉黃鸝，中和韶樂部樂生執戲竹人服之； 一，通織小團葵花，丹陛大樂諸部樂生服之。 帶均用綠雲緞。 鹵簿輿士冬冠，以豹皮及黑氈為之，頂鏤花銅座，上植明黃翎，袍如丹陛大樂諸部樂生。 帶如祭祀文舞生。 鹵薄護軍袍石青緞為之，通織金壽字，片金緣。 領、袖俱織金葵花。 鹵簿校尉冬冠，平檐，頂素銅，上植明黃翎。 袍、帶俱同鹵簿輿士。 順治三年，定庶民不得用緞綉等服。 滿洲家下仆隸有用蟒緞、妝緞、錦繡服飾者，嚴禁之。 九年，定涼帽、暖帽圓月，惟職官用紅片金，庶人則用紅緞。 僧道服，袈裟、道服外，許用絹紡絲素紗各色，布袍用土黑、糹由黑二色。 康熙元年，定軍民人等有用蟒緞、妝緞、金花緞、片金倭緞、貂皮、狐皮、猞猁猻為服飾者，禁之。 三十九年，定八旗舉人、官生、貢生、生員、監生、護軍、領催許服平常緞紗。 天馬、銀鼠不得服用。 漢舉人、官生、貢生、監生、生員除狼皮外，例亦如之。 軍民胥吏不得用狼狐等皮。 有以貂皮為帽者，並禁之。 又兵民人等鞍轡不得用綉緞、倭緞、搭線、鑲緣及鍍金為飾。 雍正元年，以職官不按定例，懸帶數珠，馬項下懸紅纓，使人前馬。 又有越分者，坐褥至以綢為之。 令八旗大臣、統領衙門及都察院嚴行稽察，如大臣等徇情疏忽，同罪。 至諸王間賞所屬人員數珠等物，並行文本旗記檔，歲應匯奏。 二年，又申明加級官員頂帶、補服、坐褥越級僭用之禁。 官員軍民服色有用黑狐皮、秋香色、米色、香色及鞍轡用米色、秋香色者，於定例外，加罪議處。 該管官員不行舉發亦如之。
A successful metropolitan tribute scholar's court crown rose from an openwork floral golden mount surmounted by three golden branches of nine leaves. The auspicious-dress crown peak used plain gold. The top graduate wore a gold crown peak bearing rock crystal. After receiving appointment, each followed his rank. A provincial graduate's public-service cap rose from an openwork silver mount surmounted by a golden sparrow. The public-service robe was blue silk with blue edging. The collar cape followed the robe style. The public-service belt followed the design of a civil rank-eight court belt. The auspicious-dress crown rose from a silver mount surmounted by plain gold. A tribute student's auspicious-dress crown used an openwork gold peak. In all other respects it followed a provincial graduate's regalia. An Imperial Academy student's auspicious-dress cap bore a plain silver peak. In all other respects his attire followed that of a tribute student. The licentiate cap rose from an openwork floral silver mount and was surmounted by a silver sparrow. The formal service robe was blue silk with blue-green edging. The draped collar followed the style of the robe. The formal service belt followed the regulations for a civil rank-nine court belt. The auspicious-dress cap peak matched that of an Imperial Academy student. Outer clerks and village elders wore tin cap peaks. Attendant plowing officials wore robes of blue velvet. The crown peak matched that of rank eight. The sacrificial civil dancer's winter cap was made of sable; its openwork floral copper mount bore square copper in the center worked with sunflowers and was surmounted by a copper three-point ornament shaped like a fire pearl. The robe was silk; at the Southern Suburban Altar it was azurite blue, at the Northern Suburban Altar black, at all other altars and temples red, and only at the Evening Moon Altar moon white. Square panels front and back bore cut-gold sunflowers. The belt was green silk. The military dancer's cap peak was surmounted by a copper three-edged ornament shaped like an ancient halberd. The robe was silk worked throughout with cut-gold sunflowers. In all other respects their attire matched the civil dancers'. Music department musicians wore cap peaks with openwork floral copper mounts topped with bright yellow plumes. Music department robes were red satin; one version, with yellow orioles embroidered on square panels front and back, was worn by Zhonghe Shaoyue musicians carrying bamboo drama puppets; the other, worked throughout with small round sunflowers, was worn by musicians of the various Danbi Dayue departments. All belts were green cloud satin. Processional palanquin bearers' winter caps were leopard skin and black felt, with openwork floral copper mounts topped by bright yellow plumes; their robes matched those of Danbi Dayue musicians. The belt matched that of sacrificial civil dancers. Processional guards wore azurite-blue satin robes worked throughout with gold longevity characters and gilt edging. Collar and sleeves alike bore gold sunflower embroidery. Processional sergeants' winter caps had flat brims and plain copper peaks topped with bright yellow plumes. Robe and belt both matched those of processional palanquin bearers. In the third year of Shunzhi it was ordained that commoners were forbidden to wear satin, embroidered garments, and the like. Manchu household servants and slaves found wearing python satin, ornamental satin, or brocade embroidery were strictly forbidden to do so. In the ninth year it was fixed that the round moon ornament on summer and winter hats might be red gilt edging for officials but red satin for commoners. Monks and Daoists, aside from kasaya and Daoist robes, were permitted various silks, spun silks, and plain gauzes; cloth robes were limited to earth black and dark pongee black. In the first year of Kangxi it was forbidden for soldiers and civilians to wear python satin, ornamental satin, golden-flower satin, gilt Japanese satin, sable, fox, or lynx fur. In the thirty-ninth year provincial graduates, official students, tribute students, licentiates, Imperial Academy students, guards, and levy officers of the Eight Banners were permitted to wear ordinary satin and gauze. Tianma fur and silver mouse fur were forbidden. Han provincial graduates, official students, tribute students, Imperial Academy students, and licentiates were subject to the same regulations except that wolf fur was permitted. Soldiers, civilians, and clerical subofficials were forbidden to wear wolf, fox, and similar furs. Wearing sable fur caps was likewise forbidden. Soldiers and civilians were also forbidden to ornament saddles and bridles with embroidered satin, Japanese satin, paired cordwork, inlaid edging, or gilding. In the first year of Yongzheng, because officials ignored prescribed regulations—wearing prayer beads on their belts, hanging red tassels from horses' necks, and making attendants walk ahead of their mounts— and some who overstepped their station even made seat cushions of silk— an order went forth that Eight Banners grand ministers, command headquarters, and the Censorate should investigate strictly, with ministers who showed favoritism or negligence punished equally. When princes occasionally bestowed prayer beads and similar items on subordinates, written notices were to be filed in the banner archives and reported annually in aggregate. In the second year the prohibition on promoted officials' over-rank use of cap peaks, belts, badge surcoats, and seat cushions was reaffirmed. Officials, soldiers, and civilians found wearing black fox fur or the colors autumn-scent, rice, or fragrance—or using rice or autumn-scent colors on saddles and bridles—were to be punished beyond the fixed regulations. Responsible officials who failed to report such violations were likewise liable.