Volume 152 Treatises 105: Carriages and Clothes 4

輿服四○諸臣服上

Carriages and Clothes 4: Sacrificial Robes of Ministers, Part One

諸臣祭服。唐製，有袞冕九旒，鷩冕八旒，毳冕七旒，絺冕六旒，玄冕五旒。宋初，省八旒、六旒冕。九旒冕：塗金銀花額，犀、玳瑁簪導，青羅衣繡山、龍、雉、火、虎蜼五章，緋羅裳繡藻、粉米、黼、黻四章，緋蔽膝繡山、火二章，白花羅中單，玉裝劍、佩，革帶，暈錦綬，二玉環，緋白羅大帶，緋羅襪、履，親王、中書門下奉祀則服之。其冕無額花者，玄衣纁裳，悉畫，小白綾中單，師子錦綬，二銀環，餘同上，三公奉祀則服之。七旒冕：犀角簪導，衣畫虎蜼、藻、粉米三章，裳畫黼、黻二章，銀裝佩、劍，革帶，餘同九旒冕，九卿奉祀則服之。五旒冕：青羅衣裳，無章，銅裝佩、劍，革帶，餘同七旒冕，四品、五品為獻官則服之；六品以下無劍、佩、綬；紫檀衣，朱裳，羅為之，皂大綾綬，銅裝劍、佩，御史、博士服之。平冕無旒，青衣纁裳，無劍、佩、綬，餘同五旒冕，太祝、奉禮服之。

Sacrificial Robes of Ministers. Under the Tang system, there were five grades of ceremonial cap: the grand cap with nine pendants, the bi cap with eight, the cui cap with seven, the chi cap with six, and the xuan cap with five. Early in the Song dynasty, the eight-pendant and six-pendant caps were dropped from use. The nine-pendant cap had a brow piece decorated with gold and silver floral work, hairpin guides of rhinoceros horn and tortoiseshell, a blue silk upper robe embroidered with the five emblems of mountain, dragon, pheasant, fire, and tiger-unicorn, and a scarlet silk skirt embroidered with the four emblems of water plants, grain powder, axe, and back-to-back bows. The scarlet knee guard bore mountain and fire emblems; the under-robe was white floral silk. Ornaments included a jade-mounted sword and pendant, a leather belt, a cloud-pattern brocade sash with two jade rings, a scarlet-and-white silk great belt, and scarlet silk socks and shoes. Imperial princes and the heads of the Secretariat and Chancellery wore this garb when conducting sacrifices. When the cap had no floral brow piece, the upper robe was black and the skirt deep red, both painted with emblems; the under-robe was small white gauze; the sash was lion-pattern brocade with two silver rings; all else matched the nine-pendant cap described above. The Three Excellencies wore this when conducting sacrifices. The seven-pendant cap had a rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide. The upper robe bore three painted emblems—tiger-unicorn, water plants, and grain powder—and the skirt two—axe and back-to-back bows. Silver-mounted pendant and sword, leather belt, and all other items matched the nine-pendant cap. The Nine Ministers wore this when conducting sacrifices. The five-pendant cap consisted of a blue silk upper robe and skirt without emblems, bronze-mounted pendant and sword, and a leather belt; all else matched the seven-pendant cap. Fourth- and fifth-rank officials wore it when serving as offering officers. Officials of sixth rank and below went without sword, pendant, or sash. Censors and academicians wore sandalwood-colored gauze upper robes and vermilion gauze skirts, with a black great-gauze sash and bronze-mounted sword and pendant. The flat cap had no pendants. Its blue upper robe and deep-red skirt came without sword, pendant, or sash; all else matched the five-pendant cap. Grand invokers and ritual attendants wore it.

慶曆三年，太常博士余靖言：“《周禮》司服之職，掌王之吉服，大裘而冕無旒，以祀昊天上帝，祀五帝亦如之。袞冕十有二旒，其服十有二章，以享先王。鷩冕八旒，其服七章，以享先公，亦以饗射。毳冕七旒，其服五章，以祀四望、山川。絺冕六旒，其服三章，以祭社稷、五祀。玄冕五旒，其服無章，以祭小祀。此皆天子親行祠事所服，冕服悉因所祀大小神鬼以為制度。今大祠、中祠所遣獻官並用上公九旒、九章冕服，以為初獻，其餘公卿亦皆七旒冕服，全無等降；小祠則公服行事，乖戾舊典。宜詳《周禮》，因所祭鬼神，以為獻官冕服之製。 ”詔下禮官議，奏曰：“聖朝之製，唯皇帝親祠郊廟及朝會大禮服袞冕外，餘冕皆不設。其每歲常祀，遣官行事，攝公則服一品九旒冕，攝卿則服三品七旒冕，自從品製為服，不以祠之大小為差。至於小祠獻官，舊以公服行事，則有違典禮。案《衣服令》，五旒冕，衣裳無章，皂綾綬，銅裝劍、佩，四品以下為獻官則服之。今小祠獻官，既不攝公、卿，則盡屬四品以下，當有祭服。請除公、卿祭服仍舊從本品外，小祠所遣獻官，並依令文祭服行事。若非時告祭，用香幣禮器行事之處，亦皆準此。 ”詔施行焉。

In the third year of Qingli (1043), Yu Jing, an academician of the Court of Imperial Sacrifices, said: "According to the Rites of Zhou, the Director of Robes was charged with the ruler's ceremonial garments. For sacrifices to the Supreme Heaven and High God, the emperor wore a great fur robe and a cap without pendants; the same applied when sacrificing to the Five Emperors." The grand ceremonial cap bore twelve pendants and twelve emblems on the robe, worn when offering to former kings. The bi cap had eight pendants and seven emblems, worn when offering to former lords and also at feasting and archery rites. The cui cap had seven pendants and five emblems, worn when sacrificing to the Four Quarters and to mountains and rivers. The chi cap had six pendants and three emblems, worn when sacrificing at the altars of soil and grain and at the Five Sacrifices. The xuan cap had five pendants and plain, emblemless garments, worn at minor sacrifices. These were the garments the emperor wore when he personally conducted sacrifices; cap and robe were graded entirely according to the rank of the spirits being worshipped. Today, for major and intermediate sacrifices, the dispatched offering officers all wear the nine-pendant, nine-emblem cap and robe of a senior duke for the first offering, while the remaining dukes and ministers all wear seven-pendant caps and robes as well, with no gradation whatsoever. At minor sacrifices, officials conduct the rites in court dress—a clear departure from ancient precedent. The Rites of Zhou should be consulted in detail so that offering officers' caps and robes may be regulated according to the spirits being worshipped. An edict was issued for the ritual officials to deliberate. They memorialized: "Under our dynasty's regulations, apart from the emperor's personal sacrifices at the suburban and temple altars and his wearing of the grand ceremonial cap at major court assemblies, the other caps are not provided." For the annual regular sacrifices, when officials are dispatched to conduct the rites, acting dukes wear the first-rank nine-pendant cap and acting ministers the third-rank seven-pendant cap; beyond that, dress follows official rank rather than the scale of the sacrifice. As for offering officers at minor sacrifices, the old practice of conducting rites in court dress violates canonical ritual. According to the Robes Edict, the five-pendant cap has an emblemless upper robe and skirt, a black gauze sash, and bronze-mounted sword and pendant; officials of fourth rank and below wear it when serving as offering officers. Since offering officers at minor sacrifices do not stand in for dukes or ministers, they are all of fourth rank or below and ought to wear sacrificial robes. We ask that, apart from dukes and ministers, whose sacrificial robes should continue to follow their own ranks, all offering officers dispatched for minor sacrifices conduct rites in sacrificial robes as the edict prescribes. The same standard should apply wherever unscheduled announcement sacrifices are conducted with incense, silks, and ritual vessels. An edict ordered the change implemented.

皇祐四年，同知太常禮院邵必言：“伏見監祭使、監禮各冠五旒冕，衣裳無章，色以紫檀。案《周禮》六冕之製，凡有旒者，衣裳皆有章，惟大裘冕無旒，衣裳無章。一命大夫之冕無旒，衣裳亦無章。今監祭、監禮所服冕五旒，侯伯之冕也，而衣無章，深所不稱；色以紫檀，又無經據。竊詳監祭、監禮既非祠官，則御史、博士爾，而服用五等，蓋非所宜，而且有旒無章。況國家南郊大禮，太常卿止服朝服，前導皇帝，明非祠官也。今後監祭者請冠獬豸、監禮者冠進賢為稱。 ”詔不充。

In the fourth year of Huangyou (1052), Shao Bi, associate director of the Court of Imperial Sacrifices, said: "I observe that the supervisors of sacrifice and supervisors of ritual each wear a five-pendant cap with emblemless garments in sandalwood color." According to the Rites of Zhou, among the six caps, any cap with pendants had emblems on the upper robe and skirt; only the great fur robe cap had no pendants and no emblems on the garments. A minister holding one grant of rank wore a cap without pendants and garments without emblems. The five-pendant caps worn today by supervisors of sacrifice and supervisors of ritual are the caps of marquises and earls, yet their garments bear no emblems—a serious mismatch. The sandalwood color, too, lacks any canonical basis. Supervisors of sacrifice and supervisors of ritual are not sacrificial officers but censors and academicians; it is hardly fitting for them to wear fifth-rank dress, especially when their caps have pendants but their garments lack emblems. At the state's great Southern Suburban Rite, the Director of Imperial Sacrifices wears only court dress while leading the emperor forward—clear proof that he is not a sacrificial officer. Henceforth, supervisors of sacrifice should wear the xiezhi cap and supervisors of ritual the cap of advancing worthies, as befits their stations. The edict did not approve the request.

元豐元年，詳定禮文所言：“國家服章，視唐尤為不備。於令文，祀儀有九旒冕、七旒冕、五旒冕，今既無冕名，而有司仍不製七旒冕，乃有四旒冕，其非禮尤甚。又服之者不以官秩上下，故分獻四品官皆服四旒冕，博士、御史則冕五旒而衣紫檀，太祝、奉禮則服平冕而無佩玉，此因循不講之失也。且古者朝、祭異服，所以別事神與事君之禮。今皇帝冬至及正旦禦殿，服通天冠、絳紗袍，則百官皆服朝服，乃禮之稱。至親祠郊、廟，皇帝嚴裘冕以事神，而侍祠之官止以朝服，豈禮之稱哉。至於景靈宮分獻官，皆服朝服，尤為失禮。伏請親祠郊、廟、景靈宮，除導駕、讚引、扶侍、宿衛之官，其侍祠及分獻者，並服祭服。如所考制度，修製五冕及爵弁服，各正冕弁之名。又國朝祀儀，祭社稷、朝日、夕月、風師、雨師皆服袞冕，其蠟祭、先蠶、五龍亦如之；祭司命、戶、灶、門、厲、行皆服鷩冕，壽星、靈星、司中、司寒、中霤、馬祭皆服毳冕，皆非是。今天子六服，自鷩冕而下，既不親祠，廢而不用，則諸臣攝事，自當從王所祭之服。伏請依《周禮》，凡祀四望、山川則以毳冕，祭社稷、五祀則以絺冕，朝夕日月、風師、雨師、司命、司中則以玄冕。若七祀、蠟祭百神、先蠶、五龍、靈星、壽星、司寒、馬祭，蓋皆群小祀之比，當服玄冕。 ”從之。

In the first year of Yuanfeng (1078), the commission for determining ritual texts stated: "Our dynasty's robes and emblems are even less complete than those of the Tang." The edict text prescribes nine-, seven-, and five-pendant caps for sacrificial protocol. Although the cap names are no longer used, the responsible offices still fail to produce seven-pendant caps and instead use four-pendant caps—a still graver breach of ritual. Moreover, wearers are not graded by rank: fourth-rank distributing officers all wear four-pendant caps; academicians and censors wear five-pendant caps with sandalwood-colored garments; grand invokers and ritual attendants wear flat caps without jade pendants. These are failures born of following old practice without deliberation. In antiquity, court dress and sacrificial dress differed precisely to distinguish the rites of serving spirits from those of serving the ruler. When the emperor ascends the hall at the winter solstice and New Year's Day in the heaven-penetrating cap and deep-red gauze robe, and all officials wear court dress, that is ritually fitting. Yet when the emperor personally sacrifices at the suburban and temple altars, solemnly clad in fur robe and ceremonial cap to serve the spirits, while attending officers wear only court dress—how can that be ritually fitting? That distributing officers at the Jingling Palace all wear court dress is an especially egregious breach of ritual. We respectfully ask that whenever the emperor personally sacrifices at the suburban altars, temples, and Jingling Palace, all attending and distributing officers—apart from those who guide the carriage, announce and lead, assist and attend, or stand guard—wear sacrificial robes. According to the system under review, the five caps and the invested-rank cap and robe should be revised and produced, with the proper names restored for each cap and headpiece. In our dynasty's sacrificial protocol, sacrifices to the altars of soil and grain, the morning sun, the evening moon, the Master of Wind, and the Master of Rain all call for the grand ceremonial cap, as do the wax sacrifice, the early silkworm rite, and the Five Dragons. Sacrifices to the Director of Fate, the household, the stove, the gate, pestilence, and the road all use the bi cap, while the Longevity Star, the Spirit Star, the Director of the Center, the Director of Cold, the Middle Drain, and the horse sacrifice all use the cui cap—all of which is incorrect. Since the emperor no longer personally sacrifices, the six grades of his ceremonial dress—from the bi cap downward—have fallen out of use; ministers acting in his stead should therefore wear the garb appropriate to the spirit being worshipped. We respectfully ask that, following the Rites of Zhou, the cui cap be used for sacrifices to the Four Quarters and to mountains and rivers; the chi cap for the altars of soil and grain and the Five Sacrifices; and the xuan cap for the morning and evening sun and moon, the Masters of Wind and Rain, the Director of Fate, and the Director of the Center. The Seven Sacrifices, the wax sacrifice to the hundred spirits, the early silkworm rite, the Five Dragons, the Spirit Star, the Longevity Star, the Director of Cold, and the horse sacrifice are all comparable to minor group sacrifices and should call for the xuan cap. The proposal was approved.

哲宗元祐元年，太常寺言：“舊制，大禮行事、執事官並服祭服，餘服朝服。至元豐七年，呂升卿始有行事及陪祠官並服祭服之議。今欲令行事、執事官並服祭服，其讚引、行事、禮儀使、太常卿、太常博士、閣門使、樞密院官進接圭，殿中監止供奉皇帝，其陪位官止導駕、押宿及主管事務，並他處行事官仍服朝服。 ”從之。

In the first year of Yuanyou (1086), under Emperor Zhezong, the Court of Imperial Sacrifices reported: "Under the old system, at great rites the officers who conducted and executed affairs all wore sacrificial robes; everyone else wore court dress." By the seventh year of Yuanfeng (1084), Lü Shengqing first proposed that both conducting officers and officers accompanying the sacrifice wear sacrificial robes. We now propose that conducting and executing officers all wear sacrificial robes—including announcers and guides, conducting officers, the commissioner of ritual protocol, the Director of Imperial Sacrifices, Court of Imperial Sacrifices academicians, Palace Gate commissioners, and Bureau of Military Affairs officials who advance and receive the jade tablet—while the Director of the Palace Receptions attends only upon the emperor, accompanying officers who merely guide the carriage, oversee the overnight watch, or manage affairs wear court dress, as do conducting officers at other locations. The proposal was approved.

徽宗大觀元年，議禮局言：“太社、太學獻官祝禮，皆以法服奉祠，至郡邑則用常服，乞降祭服。 ”詔頒制度於州郡，然未明使製造。後政和間，始詔：州縣冠服，形製詭異，令禮製局造樣頒下轉運司，轉運司製以給州縣焉。

In the first year of Daguan (1107), under Emperor Huizong, the Bureau for Deliberating Ritual reported: "Offering officers and invokers at the Grand Altar of Soil and the Imperial Academy all conduct sacrifices in canonical robes, but at prefectures and districts they use ordinary dress. We ask that sacrificial robes be issued." An edict promulgated the regulations to prefectures and districts, but did not clearly order their manufacture. Later, during the Zhenghe era (1111–1118), an edict was issued: the caps and robes used in prefectures and districts had taken on bizarre forms. The Bureau of Ritual Manufacture was ordered to produce models and distribute them to the transport commissions, which would manufacture and supply them to prefectures and districts.

二年，議禮局檢討官俞言：“玄以象道，纁以象事，故凡冕皆玄衣纁裳，今太常寺祭服，則衣色青矣。前三幅以象陽，後四幅以象陰，故裳製不相連屬，今之裳則為六幅而不殊矣。冕玄表而朱裏，今乃青羅為覆，以金銀飾之。佩用綬以貫玉，今既有玉佩矣，又有錦綬以銀、銅二環，飾之以玉。宗彝，宗廟之彝也，乃為虎蜼之狀，而不作虎彝、蜼彝。粉米，散利以養人也，乃分為二章，而以五色圓花為藉。其餘不合古者甚多。乞下禮局，博考古製，畫太常寺及古者祭服樣二本以進。至於損益裁成，斷自聖學。 ”詔令議禮局詳議。

In the second year, Yu, a reviewing officer of the Bureau for Deliberating Ritual, said: "Black symbolizes the Way and deep red symbolizes affairs; therefore all ceremonial caps were paired with black upper robes and deep-red skirts. Yet the Court of Imperial Sacrifices' sacrificial robes now use blue upper garments." The front three panels symbolized yang and the rear four yin, so the skirt was made in separate, unconnected sections. Today's skirt is simply six panels with no such distinction. The cap should be black outside and vermilion inside; now a blue silk cover decorated with gold and silver is used instead. The pendant was strung on a sash threaded with jade; now there is a jade pendant, but also a brocade sash with silver and bronze rings further decorated with jade. The zongyi emblem represents the ancestral temple vessels, yet it is rendered as a tiger-unicorn rather than as separate tiger and unicorn vessels. The grain-powder emblem represents scattered grain to nourish the people, yet it is split into two emblems with five-colored round flowers as a ground pattern. Many other features fail to accord with ancient practice. We ask that the ritual bureau be ordered to investigate ancient practice broadly and submit two illustrated models—one of the Court of Imperial Sacrifices' current sacrificial robes and one of the ancient originals. As for what to reduce, add, and finalize, that decision should rest with the emperor's own judgment. An edict ordered the Bureau for Deliberating Ritual to deliberate in detail.

四年，議禮局官宇文粹中議改衣服制度曰：“凡冕皆玄衣纁裳，衣則繪而章數皆奇，裳則繡而章數皆偶，陰陽之義也。今衣用深青，非是。欲乞視冕之等，衣色用玄，裳色用纁，以應典禮。古者蔽前而已，芾存此象，以韋為之。今蔽膝自一品以下，並以緋羅為表緣，緋絹為裏，無復上下廣狹及會、紕、純、紃之製，又有山、火、龍章。案《明堂位》：‘有虞氏服韍，夏後氏山、商火、周龍章。 ”韍者乃黻冕之黻，非赤芾之芾也。且芾在下體，與裳同用，而山、龍、火者，衣之章也。周既繢於上衣，不應又繢於芾。請改芾製，去山、龍、火章，以破諸儒之惑。又祭服有革帶，今不用皮革，而通裹以緋羅，又以銅為飾。其綬或錦或皂，環或銀或銅，尤無經據，宜依古製除去。至佩玉、中單、赤舄之製，則全取元豐中詳定官所議行之。”

In the fourth year, Yuwen Cuizhong of the Bureau for Deliberating Ritual proposed revising the robes system: "All ceremonial caps were paired with black upper robes and deep-red skirts; the upper robe was painted with an odd number of emblems and the skirt embroidered with an even number—the logic of yin and yang." The use of deep blue for the upper robe is incorrect. We ask that, according to the grade of cap, the upper robe be black and the skirt deep red, in accord with canonical ritual. In antiquity the garment covered only the front; the knee guard preserved this form and was made of leather. Today, from first rank downward, knee guards use scarlet silk for the outer border and scarlet thin silk for the lining, with none of the ancient regulations governing width, seams, borders, or cords—and they bear mountain, fire, and dragon emblems besides. According to the Record of the Bright Hall: "The Youyu clan wore fu; the Xia, mountain emblems; the Shang, fire; the Zhou, dragon." The fu mentioned here is the back-to-back bow emblem of the fu cap, not the red knee guard. The knee guard belongs to the lower body and is paired with the skirt, whereas mountain, dragon, and fire are emblems of the upper robe. Since the Zhou already painted these emblems on the upper robe, they should not be painted on the knee guard as well. We ask that the knee guard be revised by removing the mountain, dragon, and fire emblems, so as to resolve the scholars' confusion. Sacrificial robes also include a leather belt, yet leather is no longer used; the belt is entirely wrapped in scarlet silk and decorated with bronze. Sashes are sometimes brocade, sometimes black; rings sometimes silver, sometimes bronze—all without canonical basis and should be removed in favor of ancient practice. As for jade pendants, under-robes, and red shoes, those regulations should follow entirely what the Yuanfeng-era determining officers proposed and implemented.

粹中又上所編《祭服制度》曰：

Cuizhong also submitted the Regulations for Sacrificial Robes he had compiled, stating:

古者，冕以木版為中，廣八寸，長尺六寸，後方前圓，後仰前低，染三十升之布，玄表朱裏。後方者不變之體，前圓者無方之用；仰而玄者，升而辨於物，俯而朱者，降而與萬物相見。後世以繒易布，故純儉。今群臣冕版長一尺二寸，闊六寸二分，非古廣長之製；以青羅為覆，以金塗銀棱為飾，非古玄表朱裏之製，乞下有司改正。古者，冕之名雖有五，而繅就、旒玉則視其命數以為等差。合彩絲為繩，用以貫玉，謂之“繅”。以一玉為一成，結之使不相並，謂之“就”。就間相去一寸，則九玉者九寸，七玉者七寸，各以旒數長短為差。今群臣之冕，用藥玉、青珠、五色茸線，非藻玉三采、二采之義；每旒之長各八寸，非旒數長短為差之義；又獻官冕服，雜以諸侯之製，而一品服袞冕，臣竊以為非宜。

In antiquity the ceremonial cap had a wooden core eight inches wide and one foot six inches long, square in back and round in front, rising in back and sloping in front. It was covered with cloth dyed to thirty-sheng depth, black outside and vermilion inside. The square back represented unchanging substance; the round front, formless utility. Raised and black, it ascended to distinguish among things; sloping and vermilion, it descended to meet the myriad things face to face. Later ages replaced plain cloth with silk, simplifying the border trim. Today's ministerial cap boards measure one foot two inches long and six inches two fen wide—not the ancient dimensions. A blue silk cover and gold-plated silver ridges replace the ancient black-outside, vermilion-inside form. We ask that the responsible offices be ordered to correct this. In antiquity, although five cap names existed, the silk threads, jade clusters, and pendant jades were all graded according to the holder's rank. Colored silk twisted into a cord for stringing jade was called "sao." Each jade formed one cluster, tied so the clusters did not touch; this was called "jiu." Clusters spaced one inch apart yielded nine inches for nine jades and seven inches for seven; length varied with the number of pendants. Today's ministerial caps use medicinal jade, blue pearls, and five-colored floss threads—not the ancient water-plant jade in three and two colors. Each pendant string is a uniform eight inches—not the ancient principle of varying length with the number of pendants. Offering officers' caps and robes further mix in feudal-lord forms, while first-rank officials wear the grand ceremonial cap—I consider this inappropriate.

元豐中，禮官建言，請資政殿大學士以上侍祠服鷩冕，觀察使以上服毳冕，監察御史以上服絺冕，朝官以上服玄冕，選人以上爵弁。詔許之，而不用爵弁。供奉官以下至選人，盡服玄冕無旒。臣竊謂依此參定，乃合禮製。古者，三公一命袞，則三公在朝，其服當鷩冕。蓋出封則遠君而伸，在朝則近君而屈。今之攝事及侍祠皆在朝之臣也，在朝之臣乃與古之出封者同命數，非先王之意。乞下有司製鷩冕八旒、毳冕六旒、絺冕四旒、玄冕三旒，其次二旒，又其次無旒。依元豐詔旨，參酌等降，為侍祠及攝祭之服，長短之度、采色之別，皆乞依古製施行。

During the Yuanfeng era, ritual officials proposed that grand academicians of the Hall for Assisting Governance and above wear the bi cap when attending sacrifices; observation commissioners and above the cui cap; supervisory censors and above the chi cap; court officials and above the xuan cap; and selectees and above the invested-rank cap. An edict approved the proposal, though the invested-rank cap was not adopted. From palace attendants down to selectees, all wore the xuan cap without pendants. I believe that determining matters along these lines accords with proper ritual. In antiquity, the Three Excellencies held one grant of rank for the grand ceremonial robe; at court, therefore, they ought to wear the bi cap. Departing on enfeoffment meant distance from the ruler and full extension of rank; at court meant nearness to the ruler and a bending of rank. Today's acting officers and those who attend sacrifices are all court ministers, yet they now share the same grant of rank as those who departed on enfeoffment in antiquity—not what the former kings intended. We ask that the responsible offices produce bi caps with eight pendants, cui caps with six, chi caps with four, and xuan caps with three; below that, two pendants; and below that again, no pendants. Following the Yuanfeng edict's intent and weighing the gradations, these should serve as dress for attending sacrifices and acting in sacrificial affairs; measurements of length and distinctions of color should all follow ancient practice.

又案《周禮》，諸侯爵有五等，而服則三，所謂“公之服自袞冕而下，侯、伯自鷩冕而下，子、男自毳冕而下”是也。古者，諸侯有君之道，故其服以五、七、九為節。今之郡守，雖曰猶古之侯、伯，其實皆王臣也。欲乞隻用群臣之服，自鷩冕而下，分為三等：三都、四輔為一等，初獻鷩冕八旒；經略、安撫、鈐轄為一等，初獻毳冕六旒，亞獻並玄冕二旒，終獻無旒；節鎮、防、團、軍事為一等，初獻絺冕四旒，亞、終獻並玄冕無旒。其衣服之製，則各從其冕之等。

The Rites of Zhou further show that although feudal ranks had five grades, garments had only three: "dukes' dress from the grand ceremonial cap downward, marquises and earls from the bi cap downward, viscounts and barons from the cui cap downward." In antiquity, feudal lords possessed a ruler's standing; their garments therefore used five, seven, and nine as gradations. Today's prefects, though likened to the marquises and earls of antiquity, are in fact all the emperor's ministers. We ask to use only ministerial garments, from the bi cap downward, in three grades: the three capitals and four assistants as one grade, with the first offering wearing the bi cap with eight pendants. Military commissioners, pacification commissioners, and commanders as one grade: the first offering wears the cui cap with six pendants; second offerings all wear the xuan cap with two pendants; the final offering wears no pendants. Military prefects, defense commissioners, regimental commissioners, and military affairs officers as one grade: the first offering wears the chi cap with four pendants; second and final offerings all wear the xuan cap without pendants. The form of the garments should follow the grade of each cap.

又曰：“今之紘組，仍綴兩繒帶而結於頤，冕旁仍垂青纊而不以瑱，以犀為簪而不以玉笄、象笄，並非古製，乞下有司改正。 ”從之。

He also said: "Today's headband cords still attach two silk bands tied at the chin; beside the cap blue gauze still hangs without ear plugs; rhinoceros horn serves as hairpin instead of jade or ivory—all departures from ancient practice. We ask that the responsible offices be ordered to correct them." The proposal was approved.

政和議禮局言：“大觀中，所上群臣祭服制度，已依所奏修定，乞付有司依圖畫製造。 ”既又上群臣祭服之製：正一品，九旒冕，金塗銀棱，有額花，犀簪，青衣畫降龍，朱裳，蔽膝，白羅中單，大帶，革帶，玉佩，錦綬，青絲網玉環，朱襪、履。革帶以金塗銀，玉佩以金塗銀裝，綬以天下樂暈。親祠大禮使、亞獻、終獻、太宰、少宰、左丞，每歲大祠宰臣、親王、執政官、郡王充初獻服之。奏告官並依本品服，已下準此。從一品，九旒冕，無額花，白綾中單，紅錦綬，銀環，金塗銀佩，餘如正一品服。親祠吏部、戶部、禮部、兵部、工部尚書，太廟進受幣爵、奉幣爵宗室，每歲大祠捧俎官、大祠中祠初獻官服之。二品，七旒冕，角簪，青衣無降龍，餘如從一品服。親祠吏部侍郎、殿中監、大司樂、光祿卿、讀冊官，太廟薦俎、讚進飲福宗室，七祀、配享功臣分獻官，每歲大祀，謂用宮架者，大司樂、大祠中祠亞終獻、大祠禮官、小祠獻官，朔祭太常卿服之。三品，五旒冕，皂綾綬，銅環，金塗銅革帶，佩，餘如二品服。親祠舉冊官、大樂令、光祿丞、奉俎饌籩豆簠簋官、分獻官，〈（分獻壇壝從祀。）〉太廟奉瓚盤、薦香燈、安奉神主、奉毛血槃、蕭蒿篚、肝膋豆宗室，每歲祭祠大樂令、大中祠分獻官服之。無旒冕，素青衣，朱裳，蔽膝，無佩綬，餘如三品服。奉禮協律郎、郊社令、太祝太官令、親祠抬鼎官、進摶黍官、太廟供亞終獻金斝、供七祀獻官、執爵官服之。五旒冕，紫檀絁衣，餘如三品服，監察御史服之。

During the Zhenghe era, the Bureau for Deliberating Ritual reported: "The regulations for ministers' sacrificial robes submitted during Daguan have already been revised as memorialized. We ask that they be handed to the responsible offices for manufacture according to the illustrations." They then submitted the regulations for ministers' sacrificial robes. For the senior first rank: a nine-pendant cap with gold-plated silver ridges and brow ornamentation, rhinoceros-horn hairpin, blue upper robe painted with a descending dragon, vermilion skirt, knee guard, white silk under-robe, great belt, leather belt, jade pendant, brocade sash, blue silk-net jade rings, and vermilion socks and shoes. The leather belt was gold-plated silver; the jade pendant gold-plated silver mounted; the sash bore the "All Under Heaven Rejoices" cloud pattern. The commissioner for personal sacrifice at great rites, second and final offering officers, the Grand and Assistant Stewards, and the Left Vice Director wore this, as did chief ministers, imperial princes, chief councillors, and commandery princes serving as first offering officers at the annual great sacrifice. Announcement officers all wore according to their own ranks; lower ranks followed the same principle. Junior first rank: a nine-pendant cap without brow ornamentation, white gauze under-robe, red brocade sash, silver rings, and gold-plated silver pendant; all else as for senior first rank. Ministers of Personnel, Revenue, Rites, War, and Works at personal sacrifices; imperial clansmen who advance and receive silks and cups at the Imperial Ancestral Temple; tray-bearers at the annual great sacrifice; and first offering officers at great and intermediate sacrifices wore this. Second rank: a seven-pendant cap, horn hairpin, and blue upper robe without descending dragon; all else as for junior first rank. The Vice Minister of Personnel, Director of the Palace Receptions, Grand Director of Music, Director of Imperial Banquets, and document reader at personal sacrifices; imperial clansmen who present trays and advance the blessing cup at the Imperial Ancestral Temple; distributing officers at the Seven Sacrifices and for meritorious ministers sharing sacrifice; the Grand Director of Music at the annual great sacrifice using palace music frames; second and final offering officers at great and intermediate sacrifices; ritual officers at great sacrifices; offering officers at minor sacrifices; and the Director of Imperial Sacrifices at the new-moon sacrifice wore this. Third rank: a five-pendant cap, black gauze sash, bronze rings, and gold-plated bronze leather belt and pendant; all else as for second rank. The document presenter, Director of Music, Assistant Director of Imperial Banquets, officers who present trays, provisions, baskets, dishes, and grain vessels, and distributing officers at personal sacrifices, (Distributing offerings at altar enclosures for associated sacrifices.) Imperial clansmen who present libation vessels and trays, offer incense and lamps, install spirit tablets, present trays of hair and blood, baskets of artemisia, and liver-and-fat dishes at the Imperial Ancestral Temple; the Director of Music at the annual sacrifice; and distributing officers at great and intermediate sacrifices wore this. A cap without pendants, plain blue upper robe, vermilion skirt, and knee guard, without pendant or sash; all else as for third rank. Ritual attendants, pitch-regulation officers, Directors of the Suburban and Soil Altars, grand invokers, Directors of Imperial Kitchens, cauldron-bearers, millet-presenting officers, providers of gold goblets for second and final offerings at the Imperial Ancestral Temple, providers for the Seven Sacrifices offering officers, and cup-bearers at personal sacrifices wore this. A five-pendant cap and sandalwood-colored silk upper robe; all else as for third rank. Supervisory censors wore this.

州郡祭服：三都初獻，八旒冕；經略、安撫、鈐轄初獻，六旒冕；亞獻並二旒冕，終獻無旒；節鎮、防、團、軍事初獻四旒冕，亞、終獻並無旒冕。

Prefectural and district sacrificial robes: at the three capitals, the first offering wore the eight-pendant cap. Military commissioners, pacification commissioners, and commanders as first offering officers wore the six-pendant cap. Second offerings all wore two-pendant caps; the final offering wore no pendants. Military prefects, defense commissioners, regimental commissioners, and military affairs officers as first offering wore the four-pendant cap; second and final offerings all wore caps without pendants.

中興之後，省九旒、七旒、五旒冕，定為四等：一曰鷩冕，八旒；二曰毳冕，六旒；三曰絺冕，四旒；四曰玄冕，無旒。其義以公、卿、大夫、士皆北面為臣，又近尊者而屈，故其節以八、以六、以四，從陰數也。先是，紹興四年五月，國子監丞王普奏言：

After the Restoration, the nine-, seven-, and five-pendant caps were abolished and four grades established: first, the bi cap with eight pendants. Second, the cui cap with six pendants. Third, the chi cap with four pendants. Fourth, the xuan cap without pendants. The rationale was that dukes, ministers, grandees, and servicemen all faced north as subjects and, being near their superiors, bent in deference—hence gradations of eight, six, and four, following yin numbers. Earlier, in the fifth month of the fourth year of Shaoxing (1134), Wang Pu, assistant director of the Directorate of Education, memorialized:

臣嚐考諸經傳，具得冕服之製。蓋王之三公八命，鷩冕八旒，衣裳七章，其章各八。孤卿六命，毳冕六旒，衣裳五章，其章各六。大夫四命，絺冕四旒，衣裳三章，其章各四。上士三命，玄冕三旒；中士再命，玄冕二旒；下士一命，玄冕無旒；衣皆無章。裳、韍視其命數，自三而下。其繅至笄、衡、紘、紞、瑱、纊、帶、佩、芾、舄、中衣，皆有等差。

Your subject has examined the classics and commentaries and recovered the full regulations for ceremonial cap and robe. The king's Three Excellencies, holding eight grants of rank, wore the bi cap with eight pendants and garments bearing seven emblems, each emblem numbering eight. Solitary ministers with six grants of rank wore the cui cap with six pendants and garments bearing five emblems, each numbering six. Grandees with four grants of rank wore the chi cap with four pendants and garments bearing three emblems, each numbering four. Senior servicemen with three grants of rank wore the xuan cap with three pendants. Middle servicemen with two grants of rank wore the xuan cap with two pendants. Junior servicemen with one grant of rank wore the xuan cap without pendants. Their upper robes bore no emblems. Skirt and knee guard followed the number of grants of rank, from three downward. From the silk threads to the hairpin, crossbar, headband, crown top, ear plug, ear filler, belt, pendant, knee guard, shoes, and under-robe—each had its gradation.

近世冕服制度，沿襲失真，多不如古。夫後方而前圓，後昂而前俯，玄表而朱裏，此冕之製也；今則方圓俯仰，幾於無辨，且以青為表，而飾以金銀矣。其衣皆玄，其裳皆纁，裳前三而後四幅，此衣裳之製也；今則衣色以青，裳色以緋，且以六幅而不殊矣。山以章也，今則以嶞。火以圜也，今則以銳。宗彝，宗廟虎蜼之彝也，乃畫虎蜼之狀，而不為虎蜼彝。粉米，米而粉之者也，乃分為二章，而以五色圓花為藉。佩有衡、璜、琚、瑀、衝牙而已，乃加以雙滴，而重設二衡。綬以貫佩玉而已，乃別為錦綬，而間以雙環。以至帶無紐約，芾無肩頸，舄無絇繶，中衣無連裳。

Recent regulations for ceremonial cap and robe, handed down with distortions, mostly fall short of ancient practice. Square in back and round in front, rising in back and sloping in front, black outside and vermilion inside—such was the cap's form. Today square and round, sloping and rising, are nearly indistinguishable; blue serves for the outside and gold and silver for decoration. Upper robes were all black and skirts all deep red, the skirt having three panels in front and four in back—such was the form of upper robe and skirt. Today the upper robe is blue and the skirt scarlet, with six undifferentiated panels. The mountain emblem should be flat-topped; now a pointed peak is used instead. The fire emblem should be round; now it is rendered sharp-pointed. The zongyi emblem represents the tiger-unicorn vessels of the ancestral temple, yet the form of a tiger-unicorn is painted rather than separate tiger and unicorn vessels. The grain-powder emblem represents powdered grain, yet it is split into two emblems with five-colored round flowers as a ground pattern. The pendant should have only crossbar, arc, ornament, perforated disk, and angled tooth; yet double drops are added and two crossbars set again. The sash should serve only to string pendant jade; yet a separate brocade sash is made with double rings inserted between. The same applies to belts without knot fasteners, knee guards without shoulder and neck sections, shoes without lacing and stitching, and under-robes without connected skirts.

臣伏讀《國朝會要》郊廟奉祀禮文，祖宗以來，屢嚐講究，第以舊服無有存者。欲乞因茲改作，是正訛繆，一從周製，以合先聖之言。尋禮部契勘，奏言：

Your subject has respectfully read the Collected Essentials of Our Dynasty on suburban and temple sacrificial ritual; from the founding ancestors onward, the matter has been debated repeatedly, but no old garments survive. We ask to take this opportunity to remake them, correct the errors, and follow Zhou practice entirely, in accord with the former sages. The Ministry of Rites was then ordered to investigate and memorialized:

衣服之製，或因時王而為之損益，事雖變古，要皆一時製作，不無因革。或考之先王而有繆戾者，雖行之已久，不應承誤襲非，憚於改正。案《周官》，自上公服袞，王之三公服鷩，以至士服玄冕，凡五等。唐製自一品服袞冕九旒，至五品服玄冕無旒，亦五等。國家承唐之舊，初有五旒之名，其後去三公袞冕及絺冕，但存七旒鷩冕、五旒毳冕與無旒玄冕，凡三等而已。袞服非三公所服，去之可也，乃並絺冕去之，自尚書服毳冕，以至光祿丞亦服焉，貴賤幾無差等。此皆一時製作，不無因革。

Robes regulations were sometimes reduced or augmented according to the ruler of the age; though such changes departed from antiquity, each was a product of its time and involved reform. Where comparison with the former kings reveals deviation, one ought not perpetuate error out of fear of correction, even if the wrong practice has long prevailed. According to the Offices of Zhou, from senior dukes in the grand ceremonial robe and the king's Three Excellencies in the bi cap down to servicemen in the xuan cap, there were five grades in all. Under the Tang system, from first rank in the grand ceremonial cap with nine pendants down to fifth rank in the xuan cap without pendants, there were likewise five grades. Our state inherited the Tang legacy. Initially five-pendant caps were named; later the Three Excellencies' grand ceremonial cap and the chi cap were dropped, leaving only the seven-pendant bi cap, five-pendant cui cap, and pendentless xuan cap—three grades in all. The grand ceremonial robe was not suited for the Three Excellencies; removing it was acceptable. Yet the chi cap was removed as well, so that from ministers in the cui cap down to Assistant Directors of Imperial Banquets—all wore it, with scarcely any gradation between high and low. These, too, were products of their time and involved reform.

今合增鷩冕為八旒，增毳冕為六旒，復置絺冕為四旒，並及無旒玄冕，共四等，庶幾稍合周製。若冕之方圓低昂至於無辨，則製造之差也。以青為表，非不用玄也，為玄而不至者也。以緋為裳，非不用纁也，為纁而太過者也。山止而靜者也，今象其嶞，是得山之勢而不知其性。火圜而神者也，今象其銳，是得火之形而不得其神也。至於宗彝、粉米、佩綬、帶紐、芾屨之屬，皆宜改正施行。

We ought now to increase the bi cap to eight pendants, the cui cap to six, restore the chi cap to four, and include the pendentless xuan cap—four grades in all, perhaps approaching Zhou practice. If a cap's square and round, low and high become indistinguishable, that is a fault of manufacture. Using blue for the outside is not abandoning black; it is black that falls short of true black. Using scarlet for the skirt is not abandoning deep red; it is deep red taken too far. The mountain stops and is still; imitating its pointed peak captures its form but not its nature. Fire is round and numinous; imitating its sharp point captures its form but not its spirit. As for the zongyi, grain powder, pendant sash, belt knots, knee guard, shoes, and the like—all should be corrected and put into practice.

是時，諸臣奏請討論雖詳，然終以承襲之久，未能盡革也。

At this time, although the ministers' memorials and requests for discussion were detailed, the long-established inheritance prevented complete reform.

鷩冕：八旒，每旒八玉，三采，朱、白、蒼，角笄，青纊，以三色紞垂之，紘以紫羅，屬於武。衣以青黑羅，三章，華蟲、火、虎蜼彝；裳以纁表羅裏，繒七幅，繡四章，藻、粉、黼、黻。大帶，中單，佩以瑉，貫以藥珠，綬以絳錦、銀環。韍上紕下純，繪二章，山、火。革帶，緋羅表，金塗銀裝。襪、舄並如舊制。宰相、亞終獻、大禮使服之；前期，景靈宮、太廟亞終獻，明堂滌濯、進玉爵酒官亦如之。

Bi cap: eight pendants, each with eight jades in three colors—vermilion, white, and blue-green; horn hairpin; blue gauze; a three-colored crown top hanging from it; purple silk headband attached to the cap body. Upper robe of blue-black silk with three emblems—floral creatures, fire, and tiger-unicorn yi. Skirt with deep-red silk outside and gauze lining, seven silk panels embroidered with four emblems—water plants, grain powder, axe, and back-to-back bows. Great belt, under-robe, min-jade pendant strung with medicinal pearls, and a deep-red brocade sash with silver rings. Knee guard with selvage above and border below, painted with mountain and fire emblems. Leather belt with scarlet silk covering and gold-plated silver mounts. Socks and shoes followed the old system. Chancellors, second and final offering officers, and the great rites commissioner wore this. During the preparatory period, second and final offering officers at the Jingling Palace and Imperial Ancestral Temple, and officers who cleanse vessels and advance jade goblets of wine at the Bright Hall, likewise wore this.

毳冕：六玉，三采，衣三章，繪虎蜼彝、藻、粉米；裳二章，繡黼、黻。佩藥珠、衡、璜等，以金塗銅帶，韍繪以山。革帶以金塗銅。餘如鷩冕。六部侍郎以上服之；前期，景靈宮、太廟進爵酒幣官、奉幣官、受爵酒幣官、薦俎官，明堂受玉爵、受玉幣、奉徹籩豆、進飲福酒、徹俎祝腥、讚引、亞終獻，禮儀使、亞終獻爵並盥洗官四員，並如之；前二日奏告初獻，社壇九宮壇分祭初獻、亞獻亦如之。

Cui cap: six jades in three colors; upper robe with three painted emblems—tiger-unicorn yi, water plants, and grain powder. Skirt with two embroidered emblems—axe and back-to-back bows. Pendant of medicinal pearls, crossbar, arc, and the like, with gold-plated bronze belt; knee guard painted with a mountain emblem. Leather belt with gold-plated bronze mounts. All else as for the bi cap. Vice ministers of the Six Ministries and above wore this. During the preparatory period, officers who advance cups, wine, and silks, present silks, receive cups, wine, and silks, and present trays at the Jingling Palace and Imperial Ancestral Temple; officers at the Bright Hall who receive jade goblets and silks, present and withdraw baskets and dishes, advance the blessing wine, withdraw trays and invoke the raw offering, announce and lead, and serve as second and final offerings; the commissioner of ritual protocol, second and final offering cup officers, and the four hand-washing officers—all likewise wore this. Two days prior, the first offering officer at the announcement sacrifice; first and second offering officers at distributed sacrifices at the Soil Altar and Nine Palaces Altar likewise wore this.

絺冕：四玉，二采，朱、綠。衣一章，繪粉米；裳二章，繡黼、黻。綬以皂綾，銅環。餘如毳冕。光祿卿、監察御史、讀冊官、舉冊官、分獻官以上服之；前期，景靈宮、太廟奏奉神主官、明堂太府卿、光祿卿、沃水舉冊官、讀冊官、押樂太常卿、東朵殿三員、西朵殿二員、東廊二十八員、西廊二十五員、南廊二十七員、犮門祭獻官，前二日奏告亞獻終獻官、監察御史，並如之；社壇九宮壇分祭終獻官、監察御史、兵工部、光祿卿丞亦如之。

Chi cap: four jades in two colors—vermilion and green. Upper robe with one painted emblem—grain powder. Skirt with two embroidered emblems—axe and back-to-back bows. Black gauze sash with bronze rings. All else as for the cui cap. The Director of Imperial Banquets, supervisory censors, document readers and presenters, and distributing officers and above wore this. During the preparatory period, officers who announce and install spirit tablets at the Jingling Palace and Imperial Ancestral Temple; the Grand Steward of the Bright Hall, Director of Imperial Banquets, water-pouring and document-presenting officers, document readers, the Director of Imperial Sacrifices overseeing music, three officers of the Eastern Hall of Blossoms, two of the Western Hall of Blossoms, twenty-eight of the Eastern Gallery, twenty-five of the Western Gallery, twenty-seven of the Southern Gallery, and offering officers at the side-gate sacrifice; two days prior, second and final offering officers at the announcement sacrifice and supervisory censors—all likewise wore this. Final offering officers at distributed sacrifices at the Soil Altar and Nine Palaces Altar, supervisory censors, officials of the Ministries of War and Works, and Assistant Directors of Imperial Banquets likewise wore this.

玄冕：無旒，無佩綬，衣純黑，無章，裳刺繡而已，韍無刺繡，餘如絺冕。光祿丞、奉禮郎、協律郎、進摶黍官、太社令、良醞令、太官令、奉俎饌等官、供祠執事官內侍以下服之；明堂光祿丞、奉禮郎、良醞令、太祝摶黍官、宮架協律郎、登歌協律郎、奉禦官、內侍供祠執事官、武臣奉俎官，犮門祭奉禮郎、太祝令、太官令，社壇九宮壇分祭太社、太祝、太官令、奉禮郎，並如之。

Xuan cap: no pendants, no pendant or sash; pure black emblemless upper robe; skirt embroidered only; knee guard without embroidery; all else as for the chi cap. Assistant Directors of Imperial Banquets, ritual attendants, pitch-regulation officers, millet-presenting officers, Directors of the Grand Altar of Soil, Directors of Fine Brew, Directors of Imperial Kitchens, officers who present trays and provisions, and palace attendants and below serving as executing officers at sacrifices wore this. At the Bright Hall: Assistant Directors of Imperial Banquets, ritual attendants, Directors of Fine Brew, grand invokers presenting millet, pitch-regulation officers for palace music frames and ascending song, attendants upon the emperor, palace attendants serving as executing officers, and military officers presenting trays; at the side-gate sacrifice: ritual attendants, Directors of Grand Invocation, and Directors of Imperial Kitchens; at distributed sacrifices at the Soil Altar and Nine Palaces Altar: Directors of the Grand Altar of Soil, grand invokers, Directors of Imperial Kitchens, and ritual attendants—all likewise wore this.

紫檀冕：四旒，服紫檀衣，博士、御史服之。

Sandalwood cap: four pendants with sandalwood-colored upper robe. Academicians and censors wore this.

外州軍祭服：鷩冕，八旒，三都初獻服之；毳冕，六旒，經略、安撫、鈐轄初獻服之；絺冕，四旒，經略、安撫、鈐轄亞獻服之，節鎮、防、團、軍事初獻亦如之；玄冕，無旒，節鎮、防、團、軍事亞終獻服之。

Sacrificial robes in outer prefectures and garrisons: the bi cap with eight pendants was worn by first offering officers at the three capitals. The cui cap with six pendants was worn by military commissioners, pacification commissioners, and commanders serving as first offering officers. The chi cap with four pendants was worn by military commissioners, pacification commissioners, and commanders as second offering officers, and by military prefects, defense commissioners, regimental commissioners, and military affairs officers as first offering officers. The pendentless xuan cap was worn by military prefects, defense commissioners, regimental commissioners, and military affairs officers serving as second and final offering officers.

朝服：一曰進賢冠，二曰貂蟬冠，三曰獬豸冠，皆朱衣朱裳。宋初之製，進賢五梁冠：塗金銀花額，犀、玳瑁簪導，立筆。緋羅袍，白花羅中單，緋羅裙，緋羅蔽膝，並皂縹襈，白羅大帶，白羅方心曲領，玉劍、佩，銀革帶，暈錦綬，二玉環，白綾襪，皂皮履。一品、二品侍祠朝會則服之，中書門下則冠加籠巾貂蟬。三梁冠：犀角簪導，無中單，銀劍、佩，師子錦綬，銀環，餘同五梁冠。諸司三品、御史台四品、兩省五品侍祠朝會則服之。御史大夫、中丞則冠有獬豸角，衣有中單。兩梁冠：犀角簪導，銅劍、佩，練鵲錦綬，銅環，餘同三梁冠。四品、五品侍祠朝會則服之。六品以下無中單，無劍、佩、綬。御史則冠有獬豸角，衣有中單。袴褶紫、緋、綠，各從本服色，白綾中單，白綾褲，白羅方心曲領，本品官導駕，則騎而服之。

Court dress comprised three types: the cap of advancing worthies, the cap with marten and cicada, and the xiezhi cap—all paired with vermilion upper robes and skirts. Under early Song regulations, the cap of advancing worthies with five ridges had a gold and silver floral brow piece, rhinoceros-horn and tortoiseshell hairpin guides, and a standing brush. Scarlet silk robe, white floral silk under-robe, scarlet silk skirt, and scarlet silk knee guard, all with black trim bands; white silk great belt and square heart with curved collar; jade sword and pendant; silver leather belt; cloud-pattern brocade sash with two jade rings; white gauze socks; and black leather shoes. First- and second-rank officials wore this when attending sacrifices and court assemblies; the Secretariat and Chancellery added a caged kerchief with marten and cicada to the cap. Three-ridge cap: rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide, no under-robe, silver sword and pendant, lion-pattern brocade sash, and silver rings; all else as for the five-ridge cap. Third-rank officials in the various bureaus, fourth-rank Censorate officials, and fifth-rank officials in the Two Departments wore this when attending sacrifices and court assemblies. The Censor-in-Chief and Vice Censor-in-Chief wore caps with xiezhi horns and under-robes. Two-ridge cap: rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide, bronze sword and pendant, magpie-pattern brocade sash, and bronze rings; all else as for the three-ridge cap. Fourth- and fifth-rank officials wore this when attending sacrifices and court assemblies. Sixth rank and below went without under-robe, sword, pendant, or sash. Censors wore caps with xiezhi horns and under-robes. Trousers and jacket in purple, scarlet, or green according to rank; white gauze under-robe and trousers; white silk square heart with curved collar. Officials of their own rank who guided the imperial carriage wore this while riding.

袴褶之製，建隆四年，範質與禮官議：“褲褶制度，先儒無說，惟《開元雜禮》有五品以上用細綾及羅，六品以下用小綾之製。注：褶衣，復衣也。又案令文，武弁，金飾平巾幘，簪導，紫褶白袴，玉梁珠寶鈿帶，靴，騎馬服之。金飾，即附蟬也。詳此，即是二品、三品所配弁之製也。附蟬之數，蓋一品九，二品八，三品七，四品六，五品五。又侍中、中書令、散騎加貂蟬，侍左者左珥，侍右者右珥。又《開元禮》導駕官並朱衣，冠履依本品。朱衣，今朝服也。故令文三品以上紫褶，五品以上緋褶，七品以上綠褶，九品以上碧褶，並白大口袴，起梁帶，烏皮靴。今請造袴褶如令文之製，其起梁帶形製，檢尋未是，望以革帶代之。 ”奏可。是歲，造成而未用。乾德六年，郊禋始服，而冠未造，乃取朝服進賢冠、帶、襪、履參用焉。

Regulations for trousers and jacket: in the fourth year of Jianlong (963), Fan Zhi deliberated with ritual officials: "Earlier scholars offer no explanation of the trousers-and-jacket system; only the Miscellaneous Rites of Kaiyuan prescribes fine gauze and silk for fifth rank and above and small gauze for sixth rank and below." Commentary: the jacket is a double-layered garment. The edict text further describes the military cap: a gold-decorated flat kerchief cap with hairpin guide, purple jacket and white trousers, jade-ridge jeweled inlaid belt, and boots—worn when riding. The gold decoration is the attached cicada ornament. This describes the cap paired with second- and third-rank officials. Attached cicadas numbered nine for first rank, eight for second, seven for third, six for fourth, and five for fifth. Palace Attendants, Directors of the Secretariat, and Regular Attendants further added marten and cicada; those attending on the left wore left pendants, those on the right wore right pendants. The Rites of Kaiyuan further prescribed that carriage-guiding officers all wore vermilion garments, with cap and shoes according to their own ranks. Vermilion garments are today's court dress. Hence the edict: third rank and above wore purple jackets, fifth rank and above scarlet, seventh rank and above green, ninth rank and above blue-green—all with white wide trousers, raised-ridge belt, and black leather boots. We now ask that trousers and jacket be manufactured according to the edict; since the raised-ridge belt cannot be found in proper form, we hope a leather belt may substitute. The memorial was approved. That year they were completed but not yet used. In the sixth year of Qiande (968), they were first worn at the suburban sacrifice; since the caps had not yet been made, the court dress cap of advancing worthies, belt, socks, and shoes were used instead.

康定二年，少府監言：“每大禮，法物庫定百官品位給朝服。今兩班內，有官卑品高、官高品卑者，難以裁定，願敕禮院詳其等第。 ”詔下禮院參酌舊制以聞。奏曰：

In the second year of Kangding (1041), the Director of the Palace Workshops reported: "At each great rite, the Repository of Ritual Objects determines officials' ranks and grades for issuing court dress." Within the two court ranks, however, there are cases of low office with high grade and high office with low grade that are difficult to adjudicate. We ask that the Court of Ritual be ordered to specify the gradations. An edict was sent down for the Court of Ritual to consult the old system and report. They memorialized:

準《衣服令》，五梁冠，一品、二品侍祠大朝會則服之，中書門下則加籠巾貂蟬。準《官品令》，一品：尚書令，太師，太傅，太保，太尉，司徒，司空，太子太師、太傅、太保；二品：中書令，侍中，左右仆射，太子少師、少傅、少保，諸州府牧，左右金吾衛上將軍。又準《閣門儀製》，以中書令、侍中、同中書門下平章事為宰臣，親王、樞密使、留守、節度使、京尹兼中書令、侍中、同中書門下平章事為使相，樞密使、知樞密院事、參知政事、樞密副使、同知樞密院事、宣徽南北院使、僉書樞密院事並在東宮三司之上。以上品位職事，宜準前法給朝服。宰臣、使相則加籠巾貂蟬，其散官勳爵不係品位，止從正官為之服。

According to the Robes Edict, the five-ridge cap was worn by first- and second-rank officials at sacrifices and great court assemblies; the Secretariat and Chancellery added a caged kerchief with marten and cicada. According to the Official Ranks Edict, first rank included the Director of the Department of State Affairs, Grand Preceptor, Grand Tutor, Grand Protector, Grand Commandant, Minister of Education, Minister of Works, and the Grand Preceptor, Grand Tutor, and Grand Protector of the Heir Apparent. Second rank included the Director of the Secretariat, Palace Attendant, Left and Right Vice Directors, Junior Preceptor, Junior Tutor, and Junior Protector of the Heir Apparent, prefects of various prefectures, and Senior Generals of the Left and Right Golden Guard. The Palace Gate Protocol further designates the Director of the Secretariat, Palace Attendant, and Concurrent Grand Councilor as chief ministers; imperial princes, Bureau of Military Affairs commissioners, regents, military commissioners, and capital prefects concurrently holding those titles as commissioner-chancellors; and Bureau of Military Affairs commissioners, directors, Vice Grand Councilors, vice-commissioners, concurrent vice-directors, Palatial Affairs commissioners, and co-signers—all ranking above the Three Offices of the Eastern Palace. The above ranks, grades, and offices should receive court dress according to the preceding regulations. Chief ministers and commissioner-chancellors add a caged kerchief with marten and cicada; honorary offices, merit titles, and ennoblements not tied to rank follow only the regular office for dress.

三梁冠，諸司三品、御史台四品、兩省五品侍祠大朝會則服之。御史中丞則冠獬豸。準《官品令》，諸司三品，諸衛上將軍，六軍統軍，諸衛大將軍，神武、龍武大將軍，太常、宗正卿，秘書監，光祿、衛尉、太仆、大理、鴻臚、司農、太府卿，國子祭酒，殿中、少府、將作、司天監，諸衛將軍，神武、龍武將軍，下都督，三京府尹，五大都督府長史，親王傅；御史台三品、四品，御史大夫、中丞；兩省三品、四品、五品，左右散騎常侍，門下、中書侍郎，諫議大夫，給事中，中書舍人；尚書省三品、四品，六尚書，左右丞，諸行侍郎；東宮三品、四品，賓客，詹事，左右庶子，少詹事，左右諭德。節度使，文明殿學士，資政殿大學士，三司使，翰林學士承旨，翰林學士，資政殿學士，端明殿學士，翰林侍讀、侍講學士，龍圖閣學士，樞密直學士，龍圖、天章閣直學士，次中書侍郎；節度觀察留後，次六尚書、侍郎；知制誥，龍圖、天章閣待制，觀察使，次中書舍人；內客省使，次太府卿；客省使，次將作監；引進使，防禦、團練、三司副使，次左右庶子。以上品位職事，宜準前法給朝服。

The three-ridge cap was worn by third-rank officials in the various bureaus, fourth-rank Censorate officials, and fifth-rank officials in the Two Departments at sacrifices and great court assemblies. The Vice Censor-in-Chief wore the xiezhi on the cap. According to the Official Ranks Edict, third rank in the various bureaus included Senior Generals of the various guards, commanders of the Six Armies, Grand Generals of the various guards, Grand Generals of the Divine Martial and Dragon Martial guards, Directors of Imperial Sacrifices and Imperial Clans, Director of the Secretariat Library, Directors of Imperial Banquets, Guard Command, Imperial Stud, Court of Judicial Review, Court of State Ceremonial, Ministry of Revenue, and Grand Steward, Chancellor of the Directorate of Education, Directors of the Palace Receptions, Palace Workshops, Construction, and Astronomy, Generals of the various guards, Generals of the Divine Martial and Dragon Martial guards, lower area commanders, prefects of the three capitals, chiefs of staff of the five great area commands, and tutors to imperial princes. Third and fourth rank in the Censorate: the Censor-in-Chief and Vice Censor-in-Chief. Third, fourth, and fifth rank in the Two Departments included Left and Right Regular Attendants, Vice Directors of the Chancellery and Secretariat, Remonstrance Grandees, Supervising Secretaries, and Secretariat Drafters. Third and fourth rank in the Department of State Affairs included the Six Ministers, Left and Right Vice Directors, and Vice Ministers of the various bureaus. Third and fourth rank in the Eastern Palace included the Guest of the Heir Apparent, Grand Steward of the Heir Apparent, Left and Right Subordinates of the Heir Apparent, Junior Grand Steward of the Heir Apparent, and Left and Right Preceptors. Military commissioners; academicians of the Hall of Civilization; grand academicians of the Hall for Assisting Governance; commissioners of the Three Offices; chief and regular Hanlin academicians; academicians of the Hall for Assisting Governance and Hall of Bright Clarity; Hanlin readers and lecturers; academicians of the Dragon Diagram Hall; direct academicians of the Bureau of Military Affairs; and direct academicians of the Dragon Diagram and Heavenly Manifestation halls—all ranking below Vice Directors of the Secretariat. Military commissioner-observation regents ranked below the Six Ministers and Vice Ministers. Drafters of edicts, awaiting appointment at the Dragon Diagram and Heavenly Manifestation halls, and observation commissioners ranked below Secretariat Drafters. Commissioners of the Inner Reception Bureau ranked below the Director of the Grand Steward. Commissioners of the Reception Bureau ranked below the Director of Construction. Introduction commissioners, defense commissioners, training commissioners, and vice-commissioners of the Three Offices ranked below the Left and Right Subordinates of the Heir Apparent. The above ranks, grades, and offices should receive court dress according to the preceding regulations.

兩梁冠，四品、五品侍祠大朝會則服之，六品則去劍、佩、綬，御史則冠獬豸。淮《官品令》，諸司四品，太常、宗正少卿，秘書少監，光祿等七寺少卿，國子司業，殿中、少府、將作、司天少監，三京府少尹，太子率更令、家令、仆、諸衛率府率、副率，諸軍衛中郎將，諸王府長史、司馬，大都督府左右司馬，內侍；尚書省五品，左右司諸行郎中；諸司五品，國子博士，經筵博士，太子中允、左右讚善大夫，都水使者，開封祥符、河南洛陽、宋城縣令，太子中舍、洗馬，內常侍，太常、宗正、秘書、殿中丞，著作郎，殿中省五尚奉禦，大理正，諸王友，諸軍衛郎將，諸王府諮議參軍，司天五官正，太史令，內給事；諸升朝官六品以下起居郎，起居舍人，侍御史，尚書省諸行員外郎，殿中侍御史，左右司諫，左右正言，監察御史，太常博士，通事舍人。四方館使，次七寺少卿；諸州刺史，次太子仆；〈（謂正任不帶使職者。）〉東西上閣門使，次司天少監；客省、引進、閣門副使，次諸行員外郎。已上品位職事，據令文，但言四品、五品，亦不分班敘上下。今請自尚書省五品以上及諸州刺史已上，準前法給朝服。其諸司五品已上，實有官高品卑及品高官卑者，宜自諸司五品、國子博士至內給事，並依六品以下例去劍、佩、綬，御史則冠獬豸，衣有中單。其諸司使、副使以下至閣門祗候，如有攝事合請朝服者，並同六品。

The two-ridge cap was worn by fourth- and fifth-rank officials at sacrifices and great court assemblies; sixth rank went without sword, pendant, and sash; censors wore the xiezhi on the cap. According to the Official Ranks Edict, fourth rank in the various bureaus included Assistant Directors of Imperial Sacrifices and Imperial Clans, Assistant Director of the Secretariat Library, Assistant Directors of the Seven Courts including Imperial Banquets, Vice Chancellor of the Directorate of Education, Assistant Directors of the Palace Receptions, Palace Workshops, Construction, and Astronomy, Vice Prefects of the three capitals, Directors of the Heir Apparent's Timekeeping, Household, and Stables, commanders and vice-commanders of the guard rate offices, middle generals of the various army guards, chiefs of staff and marshals of imperial princes' households, left and right chiefs of staff of great area commands, and palace attendants. Fifth rank in the Department of State Affairs included directors of the Left and Right Bureaus and directors of the various ministries. Fifth rank in the various bureaus included academicians of the Directorate of Education, lecturers at the Classics Lectern, Palace Companions and Left and Right Goodness Grandees of the Heir Apparent, commissioners of the Waterways Office, magistrates of Kaifeng Xiangfu, Henan Luoyang, and Songcheng counties, Palace Attendants and Groom of the Heir Apparent, regular palace attendants, assistant directors of Imperial Sacrifices, Imperial Clans, the Secretariat Library, and Palace Receptions, directors of composition, attendants upon the emperor in the Five Services of the Palace Receptions Bureau, senior judicial reviewers, friends to imperial princes, brigade generals of the various army guards, advisory staff of imperial princes' households, directors of the Five Offices of Astronomy, Director of the Grand Astrologer, and inner palace attendants. Court-attending officials of sixth rank and below included diarists, diarist secretaries, attendant censors, outside directors of the various ministries, palace attendant censors, remonstrance officers and rectifiers of the Left and Right Bureaus, supervisory censors, Court of Imperial Sacrifices academicians, and reception secretaries. Commissioners of the Four Directions Hall ranked below Assistant Directors of the Seven Courts. Prefects of various prefectures ranked below the Director of the Heir Apparent's Stables. (Referring to those in regular appointment without concurrent commissioner duties.) Commissioners of the Eastern and Western Upper Palace Gates ranked below the Assistant Director of Astronomy. Vice-commissioners of the Reception Bureau, Introduction Bureau, and Palace Gate Bureau ranked below outside directors of the various ministries. The above ranks, grades, and offices, according to the edict text, mention only fourth and fifth ranks and do not distinguish upper and lower within court ranks. We now ask that court dress be issued according to the preceding regulations for fifth rank and above in the Department of State Affairs and for prefects of various prefectures and above. Where fifth rank and above in the various bureaus includes mismatches of high office with low grade or high grade with low office, from fifth rank in the various bureaus and academicians of the Directorate of Education down to inner palace attendants—all should follow the sixth-rank precedent of going without sword, pendant, and sash; censors wear the xiezhi on the cap and under-robes. Commissioners, vice-commissioners, and below in the various bureaus down to palace gate ushers who act in office and are entitled to court dress should all follow sixth-rank practice.

詔從所請。元豐二年，詳定朝會儀注所言：

An edict approved the request. In the second year of Yuanfeng (1079), the commission for determining court assembly protocol stated:

古者製禮上物，不過十二，天之數也。自上而下，降殺以兩。畿外諸侯，遠於尊者而伸，則以九、以七、以五，從陽奇之數；王朝公卿大夫，近於尊者而屈，則以八、以六、以四，從陰偶之數。本朝《衣服令》，通天冠二十四梁，為乘輿服，以應冕旒前後之數。若人臣之冠，則自五梁而下，與漢、唐少異矣。至於綬，則乘輿及皇太子以織成，諸臣用錦為之。一品、二品冠五梁，中書門下加籠巾貂蟬。諸司三品三梁，四品、五品二梁，御史台四品、兩省五品亦三梁，而綬有暈錦、黃獅子、方勝、練鵲四等之殊。六品則去劍、佩、綬。

In antiquity, ritual objects were capped at twelve—the number of Heaven. From top to bottom, gradations decreased by twos. Feudal lords outside the capital domain, distant from their superiors and extending in rank, used nine, seven, and five—following yang odd numbers. Dukes, ministers, and grandees at the royal court, near their superiors and bending in deference, used eight, six, and four—following yin even numbers. Our dynasty's Robes Edict prescribes the heaven-penetrating cap with twenty-four ridges as imperial dress, corresponding to the number of pendants front and back on the ceremonial cap. Ministers' caps, from five ridges downward, differ slightly from Han and Tang practice. Sashes for the emperor and crown prince used woven patterns; ministers used brocade. First- and second-rank officials wore five-ridge caps; the Secretariat and Chancellery added a caged kerchief with marten and cicada. Third rank in the various bureaus wore three ridges; fourth and fifth ranks two ridges; fourth rank in the Censorate and fifth rank in the Two Departments also three ridges; sashes had four grades—cloud-pattern brocade, yellow lion, square victory, and magpie. Sixth rank went without sword, pendant, and sash.

隋、唐冠服皆以品為定，蓋其時官與品輕重相準故也。今之令式，尚或用品，雖因襲舊文，然以官方之，頗為舛謬。概舉一二，則太子中允、讚善大夫與御史中丞同品，太常博士品卑於諸寺丞，太子中舍品高於起居郎，內常侍才比內殿崇班，而在尚書諸司郎中之上，是品不可用也。若以差遺，則有官卑而任要劇者，有官品高而處之冗散者，有一官而兼領數局者，有徒以官奉朝請者，有分局蒞職特出於一時隨事立名者，是差遣又不可用也。以此言之，用品及差遣定冠綬之製，則未為允當。伏請以官為定，庶名實相副，輕重有準，仍乞分官為七等，冠綬亦如之。

Sui and Tang caps and robes were determined by grade because office and grade corresponded in weight at that time. Today's regulations still sometimes use grade; although inherited from old texts, measured against actual offices, this is quite erroneous. To cite a few examples: Palace Companions and Goodness Grandees of the Heir Apparent share grade with the Vice Censor-in-Chief; Court of Imperial Sacrifices academicians rank below assistant directors of the various courts; Palace Attendants of the Heir Apparent rank above diarists; regular palace attendants compare only to honored inner-palace ranks yet stand above directors of the various ministries—grade cannot serve as the basis. If temporary assignment were used instead, there are low offices with weighty duties, high offices in idle posts, one office concurrently heading several bureaus, offices existing only to attend court on salary, and branch bureaus specially established for the moment—temporary assignment also cannot serve as the basis. On these grounds, using grade or temporary assignment to determine cap and sash regulations is not appropriate. We respectfully ask that office serve as the basis, so name and reality match and weight has a standard; offices should be divided into seven grades, with caps and sashes to match.

貂蟬籠巾七梁冠，天下樂暈錦綬，為第一等。蟬，舊以玳瑁為蝴蝶狀，今請改為黃金附蟬，宰相、親王、使相、三師、三公服之。七梁冠，雜花暈錦綬，為第二等，樞密使、知樞密院至太子太保服之。六梁冠，方勝宜男錦綬，為第三等，左右仆射至龍圖、天章、寶文閣直學士服之。五梁冠，翠毛錦綬，為第四等，左右散騎常侍至殿中、少府、將作監服之。四梁冠，簇四雕錦綬，為第五等，客省使至諸行郎中服之。三梁冠，黃獅子錦綬，為第六等，皇城以下諸司使至諸衛率府率服之。內臣自內常侍以上及入內省內侍省內東西頭供奉官、殿頭，前班、東西頭供奉官、左右侍禁、左右班殿直，京官秘書郎至諸寺、監主簿，既預朝會，亦宜朝服從事。今參酌自內常侍以上，冠服各從本等，寄資者如本官，入內、內侍省內東西頭供奉官、殿頭，三班使臣，陪位京官為第七等，皆二梁冠，方勝練鵲錦綬。高品以下服色依古者，韠韍、舄、履並從裳色。

First grade: cap with marten-and-cicada caged kerchief and seven ridges, and an "All Under Heaven Rejoices" cloud-pattern brocade sash. The cicada ornament: formerly tortoiseshell was shaped like a butterfly; now we ask that it be changed to a gold attached cicada. Chancellors, imperial princes, commissioner-chancellors, the Three Preceptors, and the Three Excellencies wore it. Second grade: seven-ridge cap with mixed-flower cloud-pattern brocade sash, worn by Bureau of Military Affairs commissioners and directors down to the Junior Protector of the Heir Apparent. Third grade: six-ridge cap with square-victory and male-heir brocade sash, worn by the Left and Right Vice Directors down to direct academicians of the Dragon Diagram, Heavenly Manifestation, and Treasured Culture halls. Fourth grade: five-ridge cap with kingfisher-feather brocade sash, worn by the Left and Right Regular Attendants down to Directors of the Palace Receptions, Palace Workshops, and Construction. Fifth grade: four-ridge cap with clustered-four-carving brocade sash, worn by Reception Bureau commissioners down to directors of the various ministries. Sixth grade: three-ridge cap with yellow lion brocade sash, worn by commissioners of the various bureaus from the Imperial City downward down to commanders of the guard rate offices. Inner court officials from regular palace attendants upward, including head attendants and hall heads of the Inner Service Bureau, front-rank attendants, palace guards, and hall duty officers; and capital officials from Secretariat Drafters down to chief clerks of the various courts and directorates—since they attend court assemblies, they too ought to wear court dress. After deliberation: from regular palace attendants upward, cap and dress follow each holder's grade; those on provisional salary follow their original office. Inner Service Bureau head attendants and hall heads, third-rank envoys, and capital officials in accompanying positions form the seventh grade—all with two-ridge caps and square-victory magpie brocade sashes. For grades below the highest, garment colors follow ancient practice; knee guards, shoes, and slippers all match skirt color.

今製，朝服用絳衣，而錦有十九等。其七等綬，謂宜純用紅錦，以文采高下為差別。惟法官綬用青地荷蓮錦，以別諸臣。《後漢志》：“法冠一曰柱後，執法者服之，侍御史、廷尉正監平也，或謂之獬豸冠。 ”《南齊志》亦曰：“法冠，廷尉等諸執法者冠之。 ”今御史台自中丞而下至監察御史，大理卿、少卿、丞，審刑院、刑部主判官，既正定厥官，真行執法之事，則宜冠法冠，改服青荷蓮錦綬，其梁數與佩準本品。

Under current regulations, court dress uses deep-red garments, while brocade sashes have nineteen grades. The seven grades of sash ought to use pure red brocade, distinguished by the richness of their patterns. Only judicial officers' sashes use blue-ground lotus brocade, to distinguish them from other ministers. The Treatise on Later Han states: "The law cap, also called pillar-behind, is worn by law-enforcing officers—attendant censors and the directors, supervisors, and reviewers of the Court of Judicial Review—or it is called the xiezhi cap." The Treatise on Southern Qi likewise says: "The law cap is worn by the Director of the Court of Judicial Review and other law-enforcing officers." Today, from the Vice Censor-in-Chief down to supervisory censors in the Censorate; the Director, Assistant Director, and assistant directors of the Court of Judicial Review; and presiding officers of the Court for Review of Penalties and the Ministry of Punishments—since their offices are now fixed and they truly perform law-enforcement duties—they ought to wear the law cap and blue lotus brocade sashes, with ridges and pendants according to their own grades.

從之。

The proposal was approved.

其後，又詔冬正朝會，諸軍所服衣冠，廂都軍都指揮使、都虞候、領團練使、刺史服第五等，軍都指揮使、都虞候服第六等，指揮使、副指揮使服第七等，並班於庭。副都頭以上常服，班殿門外。其朝會，執事高品以下，並服介幘，絳服，大帶，革帶，襪、履，方心曲領。

Later, an edict ordered that at the winter New Year court assembly, metropolitan army commanders and vice-commanders, training commissioners, and prefects wore fifth-grade dress; army commanders and vice-commanders wore sixth grade; and commanders and vice-commanders wore seventh grade—all taking their places in the courtyard. Deputy commanders-in-chief and above wore ordinary dress and took their places outside the hall gates. At court assemblies, executing officers from high grade downward all wore kerchief caps, deep-red garments, great belt, leather belt, socks and shoes, and square heart with curved collar.

政和議禮局更上群臣朝服之製：七梁冠，金塗銀棱，貂蟬籠巾，犀簪導，銀立筆，朱衣裳，白羅中單，並皂褾、襈，蔽膝隨裳色，方心曲領，緋白羅大帶，金塗銀革帶，金塗銀裝玉佩，天下樂暈錦綬，青絲網間施三玉環，白襪，黑履；三公，左輔，右弼，三少，太宰，少宰，親王，開府儀同三司服之。七梁冠，無貂蟬籠巾，銀裝玉佩，雜花暈錦綬，餘同三公以下服；執政官，東宮三師服之。六梁冠，白紗中單，銀革帶，佩，方勝宜男錦綬，銀環，餘同七梁冠服；大學士，學士，直學士，東宮三少，御史大夫、中丞，六曹尚書、侍郎，殿中監，大司成，散騎常侍，特進，金紫、銀青光祿大夫，光祿大夫，太尉，節度使，左右金吾衛、左右衛上將軍服之。五梁冠，翠毛錦綬，餘同六梁冠服；太子賓客、詹事，給事中，中書舍人，諫議大夫，待制，九寺卿，大司樂，秘書監，殿中少監，國子祭酒，宣奉、正奉、通奉、通議、太中、中大夫，中奉、中散大夫，上將軍，節度觀察留後，觀察使，通侍大夫，樞密都承旨服之。四梁冠，簇四盤雕錦綬，餘同五梁冠服；九寺少卿，大晟典樂，秘書少監，國子、辟廱司業，少府、將作、軍器監，都水使者，起居舍人，侍御史，太子左右庶子、少詹事、諭德，尚書左右司郎中、員外，六曹諸司郎中，朝議、奉直、朝請、朝散、朝奉大夫，防禦、團練使，刺史，大將軍，正侍、中侍、中亮、中衛、拱衛、左武、右武大夫，駙馬都尉，帶遙郡武功大夫以下，樞密副都承旨服之。三梁冠，金塗銅革帶，佩，黃獅子錦綬，鍮石環，餘同四梁冠服；殿中侍御史，監察御史，司諫，正言，尚書六曹員外郎，外符寶郎，少府、將作、軍器少監，太子侍讀、侍講，中書舍人，親王府翊善、侍讀、侍講，九寺、秘書、殿中監，辟廱丞，大晟樂令，兩赤縣令，大理正、司直、評事，著作郎，秘書郎，著作佐郎，太常、宗學、國子、辟廱博士，太史局令、正、丞，五官正，朝請、朝散、朝奉、承議、奉議、通直郎，中亮、中衛、拱衛、左武、右武郎，諸衛將軍，衛率府率，武功、武德、武顯、武節、武略、武經、武義、武翼大夫郎，醫職翰林醫正以上，內符寶郎，閣門通事舍人，敦武郎，修武郎服之。二梁冠，角簪，方勝練鵲錦綬，餘同三梁冠服；在京職事官，閣門祗候，看班祗候，率府副率，升輦輅立侍內臣服之。御史大夫、中丞，刑部尚書、侍郎，大理卿、少卿，侍御史，刑部郎中，大理寺正、丞、司直、評事並冠獬豸冠，服青荷蓮綬。詔悉頒行。六年，詔導駕官朝服結佩。七年，詔夏祭百官朝、祭服用紗。

During the Zhenghe era, the Bureau for Deliberating Ritual submitted revised regulations for ministers' court dress: a seven-ridge cap with gold-plated silver ridges, marten-and-cicada caged kerchief, rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide, and silver standing brush; vermilion upper robe and skirt with white silk under-robe and black cuffs and trim bands; knee guard matching skirt color; square heart with curved collar; scarlet-and-white silk great belt; gold-plated silver leather belt and jade pendant; "All Under Heaven Rejoices" cloud-pattern brocade sash with blue silk net and three jade rings; white socks; and black shoes. The Three Excellencies, Left and Right Assistants, Three Juniors, Grand and Assistant Stewards, imperial princes, and Grandees of Splendid Happiness with Equal Privilege to the Three Excellencies wore this. Seven-ridge cap without marten-and-cicada caged kerchief, silver-mounted jade pendant, and mixed-flower cloud-pattern brocade sash; all else as for the Three Excellencies' dress. Chief councillors and the Three Preceptors of the Eastern Palace wore this. Six-ridge cap with white gauze under-robe, silver leather belt and pendant, square-victory and male-heir brocade sash, and silver rings; all else as for the seven-ridge cap. Grand academicians, academicians, direct academicians, the Three Juniors of the Eastern Palace, the Censor-in-Chief and Vice Censor-in-Chief, Ministers and Vice Ministers of the Six Bureaus, Director of the Palace Receptions, Grand Chancellor of the Directorate of Education, Regular Attendants, Special Advancement holders, Grandees of Splendid Happiness with gold or silver seals, the Grand Commandant, military commissioners, and Senior Generals of the Left and Right Golden Guard and Left and Right Guard wore this. Five-ridge cap with kingfisher-feather brocade sash; all else as for the six-ridge cap. The Guest and Grand Steward of the Heir Apparent, Supervising Secretaries, Secretariat Drafters, Remonstrance Grandees, awaiting appointment officers, Directors of the Nine Courts, Grand Director of Music, Director of the Secretariat Library, Assistant Director of the Palace Receptions, Chancellor of the Directorate of Education, various grandee ranks, the Senior General, military commissioner-observation regents, observation commissioners, the Grandee of General Attendance, and chief receivers of the Bureau of Military Affairs wore this. Four-ridge cap with clustered-four-coiled-carving brocade sash; all else as for the five-ridge cap. Assistant Directors of the Nine Courts, Director of Music of Great Splendor, Assistant Director of the Secretariat Library, Vice Chancellors of the Directorate of Education and Imperial Academy, Directors of the Palace Workshops, Construction, and Armaments, commissioner of the Waterways Office, diarist secretaries, attendant censors, the Heir Apparent's Left and Right Subordinates, Junior Grand Steward, and Preceptors, directors and outside directors of the Left and Right Bureaus, directors of the Six Bureaus' ministries, various court grandee ranks, defense and training commissioners, prefects, the Grand General, various attendance and guard grandee ranks, the Commandant of the Horse for the Imperial Son-in-Law, holders of distant-commandery Military Merit Grandee and below, and vice chief receivers of the Bureau of Military Affairs wore this. Three-ridge cap with gold-plated bronze leather belt and pendant, yellow lion brocade sash, and brass rings; all else as for the four-ridge cap. Palace attendant and supervisory censors, remonstrance officers and rectifiers, outside directors of the Six Bureaus, outside seal-and-tally officers, Assistant Directors of the Palace Workshops, Construction, and Armaments, Readers and Lecturers of the Heir Apparent, Secretariat Drafters, Goodness Officers, Readers, and Lecturers of imperial princes' households, assistant directors of the Nine Courts, Secretariat Library, and Palace Receptions, Imperial Academy assistant director, Director of Music of Great Splendor, magistrates of the two red counties, senior judicial reviewers and case officers of the Court of Judicial Review, composition and Secretariat officers, academicians of Imperial Sacrifices, Imperial Clans, Directorate of Education, and Imperial Academy, officers of the Grand Astrologer Bureau and Five Offices of Astronomy, various presentation and discussion officers, guard and martial officers, Generals of the various guards, commanders of the guard rate offices, various military merit grandees and officers, medical officers from Hanlin Chief Physician upward, inner seal-and-tally officers, Palace Gate reception secretaries, and Martial Cultivation and Martial Refinement officers wore this. Two-ridge cap with horn hairpin and square-victory magpie brocade sash; all else as for the three-ridge cap. Capital duty officers, palace gate ushers, rank-viewing ushers, vice-commanders of the guard rate offices, and inner court officials who ascended the carriage and stood in attendance wore this. The Censor-in-Chief and Vice Censor-in-Chief, Minister and Vice Minister of Punishments, Director and Assistant Director of the Court of Judicial Review, attendant censors, director of the Ministry of Punishments, and senior reviewers, assistant directors, case reviewers, and case examiners of the Court of Judicial Review all wore the xiezhi cap and blue lotus sash. An edict ordered everything promulgated and implemented. In the sixth year, an edict ordered carriage-guiding officers to wear court dress with tied pendants. In the seventh year, an edict ordered that for summer sacrifices, all officials' court and sacrificial dress be made of gauze.

中興，仍舊制。行事、執事官則服祭服，導引、陪祠官則服朝服，從紹興三年太常寺請也。祠畢駕回，若服通天、絳紗袍，乘大輦，則百官從駕服朝服，或服履袍；乘平輦，則百官從駕服常服，自隆興二年洪適請始也。

After the Restoration, the old system remained in force. Officers who conducted and executed affairs wore sacrificial robes; those who guided and accompanied sacrifices wore court dress—following the Court of Imperial Sacrifices' request in the third year of Shaoxing (1133). When the sacrifice was complete and the imperial carriage returned, if the emperor wore the heaven-penetrating cap and deep-red gauze robe and rode the great palanquin, all officials accompanying the carriage wore court dress or robe with shoes. If riding the level palanquin, all officials accompanying the carriage wore ordinary dress—beginning with Hong Shi's request in the second year of Longxing (1164).

進賢冠以漆布為之，上縷紙為額花，金塗銀銅飾，後有納言。以梁數為差，凡七等，以羅為纓結之：第一等七梁，加貂蟬籠巾、貂鼠尾、立筆；第二等無貂蟬籠巾；第三等六梁，第四等五梁，第五等四梁，第六等三梁，第七等二梁，並如舊制，服同。貂蟬冠一名籠巾，織藤漆之，形正方，如平巾幘。飾以銀，前有銀花，上綴玳瑁蟬，左右為三小蟬，禦玉鼻，左插貂尾。三公、親王侍祠大朝會，則加於進賢冠而服之。獬豸冠即進賢冠，其梁上刻木為獬豸角，碧粉塗之，梁數從本品。立筆，古人臣簪筆之遺象。其製削竹為幹，裹以緋羅，以黃絲為毫，拓以銀縷葉，插於冠後。舊令，文官七品以上服朝服者，簪白筆，武官則否，今文武皆簪焉。

The cap of advancing worthies was made of lacquered cloth, with paper filigree forming the brow ornament, gold-plated silver and bronze decoration, and a speech-receiver at the back. Gradations followed the number of ridges—seven grades in all—with silk as the chin tie: first grade had seven ridges plus marten-and-cicada caged kerchief, marten tail, and standing brush. Second grade had no marten-and-cicada caged kerchief. Third grade had six ridges, fourth five, fifth four, sixth three, and seventh two—all as in the old system, with dress the same throughout. The marten-and-cicada cap, also called the caged kerchief, was woven rattan lacquered into a square form like a flat kerchief cap. It was decorated with silver, with silver flowers in front, a tortoiseshell cicada attached above, three small cicadas left and right, an imperial jade nose piece, and a marten tail inserted on the left. The Three Excellencies and imperial princes added it to the cap of advancing worthies when attending sacrifices and great court assemblies. The xiezhi cap is the cap of advancing worthies with xiezhi horns carved in wood on the ridges and coated with green powder; the number of ridges follows the wearer's grade. The standing brush preserves the ancient custom of ministers' hairpin brushes. It was made by shaving bamboo into a shaft, wrapping it in scarlet silk, using yellow silk for bristles, affixing silver filigree leaves, and inserting it behind the cap. Under the old edict, civil officials of seventh rank and above who wore court dress hairpinned white brushes, but military officers did not. Now both civil and military officials wear them.

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