Volume 153 Treatises 106: Carriages and Clothes 5

輿服五○諸臣服下士庶人服

Carriages and Clothes 5 — Official Dress; Dress of Commoners and the People

公服。凡朝服謂之具服，公服從省，今謂之常服。宋因唐制，三品以上服紫，五品以上服朱，七品以上服綠，九品以上服青。其制，曲領大袖，下施橫襴，束以革帶，襆頭，烏皮靴。自王公至一命之士，通服之。

Ordinary Court Dress. Full court dress was called "complete dress"; ordinary court dress was a simplified form, and in the present day it is called regular dress. The Song followed Tang practice: officials of the third rank and above wore purple, of the fifth rank and above vermillion, of the seventh rank and above green, and of the ninth rank and above azure. The garment had a curved collar and wide sleeves, horizontal pleats below the waist, a leather belt, a futou headwrap, and black leather boots. From princes and dukes down to officials of the ninth rank, all wore it alike.

太宗太平興國二年，詔朝官出知節鎮及轉運使、副，衣緋、綠者並借紫。知防禦、團練、刺史州，衣綠者借緋，衣緋者借紫；其為通判、知軍監，止借緋。其後，江淮發運使同轉運，提點刑獄同知刺史州。雍熙初，郊祀慶成，始許升朝官服緋、綠二十年者，敘賜緋、紫。

In Taizong's second year of Taiping Xingguo (977), an edict allowed court officials assigned as circuit commissioners or transport commissioners (and their deputies) who wore scarlet or green to borrow purple robes. Prefects of defense commands, training commands, and prefectural states who wore green could borrow scarlet, and those in scarlet could borrow purple; deputy prefects and army-or-agency supervisors were limited to borrowing scarlet. Later, the Jiang-Huai grain transport commissioner received the same privileges as a transport commissioner, and the judicial intendant the same as a prefect. At the start of Yongxi (984), after the suburban sacrifice celebrations, court officials who had worn scarlet or green for twenty years were first allowed to advance by seniority to scarlet or purple robes.

真宗登極，京朝官亦聽敘，及東封、西祀赦書，京朝官並以十五年為限。後每帝登極，亦如例。景德三年，詔內諸司使以下出入內庭，不得服皂衣，違者論其罪；內職亦許服窄袍。

When Zhenzong took the throne, capital officials were also allowed seniority advancement; amnesties for the eastern and western sacrifices set a fifteen-year limit for capital officials. Afterward, each new emperor followed the same practice. In Jingde 3 (1006), an edict forbade inner-bureau commissioners and lower ranks from wearing black when entering the inner palace, on penalty of prosecution; inner staff were also allowed to wear narrow-sleeved robes.

仁宗景祐元年，詔軍使曾任通判者借緋，曾任知州者借紫。慶曆元年，龍圖閣直學士任布言：「欲望自今贈官至正郎者，其畫像許服緋，至卿監許服紫。」從之。嘉祐三年，詔三路轉運使朝辭上殿日，與賜章服；諸路轉運使候及十年，即與賜章服。

In Renzong's first year of Jingyou (1034), military commissioners who had previously served as deputy prefect could borrow scarlet, and those who had served as prefect could borrow purple. In Qingli 1 (1041), Dragon Diagram Hall academician Ren Bu proposed: "Henceforth, for posthumous honors up to Regular Gentleman, portraits should be allowed scarlet robes, and up to director rank, purple robes." The court agreed. In Jiayou 3 (1058), transport commissioners of the three circuits were to receive court regalia on the day they took leave at audience; transport commissioners in all circuits received regalia after ten years of service.

徽宗重和元年，詔禮制局自冠服討論以聞，其見服靴，先改用履。禮制局奏：「履有絇、繶、純、綦，古者舄履各隨裳之色，有赤舄、白舄、黑舄。今履欲用黑革為之，其絇、繶、純、綦並隨服色用之，以仿古隨裳色之意。」詔以明年正旦改用。禮制局又言：「履隨其服色。武臣服色一等，當議差別。」詔文武官大夫以上具四飾，朝請郎、武功郎以下去繶，並稱履；從義郎、宣教郎以下至將校、伎術官去繶、純，並稱履。當時議者以靴不當用之中國，實廢釋氏之漸雲。

In Huizong's first year of Chonghe (1118), the Ritual Regulations Bureau was ordered to review caps and dress; boots in current use were to be replaced first with court shoes. The bureau reported: "Court shoes had laces, side ornaments, borders, and ties. In antiquity, shoes matched the color of the skirt—red, white, or black slippers. Shoes should be black leather, with laces and ornaments matching robe color, reviving the ancient practice of coordinating footwear with dress." The change was ordered for the next New Year's audience. The bureau added: "Shoes should match robe color. Military officials shared one color grade; distinctions should be discussed." Grandees and above kept all four ornaments; Court Gentlemen and Martial Achievement Gentlemen and below dropped side ornaments—all were called shoes; From Following Righteousness and Promoting Instruction Gentlemen down to commanders and technical officers, side ornaments and borders were removed—all wore shoes. Contemporaries argued that boots were inappropriate in China and that the reform was really a step toward abandoning Buddhist dress.

中興，仍元豐之制，四品以上紫，六品以上緋，九品以上綠。服緋、紫者必佩魚，謂之章服。非官至本品，不以假人。若官卑而職高，則特許者有三：自庶官遷六部侍郎，自庶官為待制，或出奉使者是也。又有以年勞而賜者，有品未及而借者。升朝官服綠，大夫以上服緋，蒞事至今日以前及二十年曆任無過者，許磨勘改授章服，此賜者也。或為通判者，許借緋；為知州、監司者，許借紫；任滿還朝，仍服本品，此借者也。又有出於恩賜者焉。紹興十二年九月，以皇太后回鑾，詔承務郎以上服緋、綠，蒞事至今日以前十七年者，並改轉服色。

After the Restoration, the Yuanfeng rules remained: fourth rank and above wore purple, sixth rank and above scarlet, ninth rank and above green. Scarlet and purple robes required a fish tally and were called court regalia. Robes were not loaned unless one held the corresponding rank. When rank was low but office high, three exceptions applied: promotion from common official to vice minister, appointment as academician-in-waiting, or service as an imperial envoy. Some received robes for seniority; others borrowed them before reaching the proper rank. Court officials wore green; grandees and above wore scarlet. After twenty years of faultless service, review could advance one's regalia—this was bestowal by seniority. deputy prefects could borrow scarlet; prefects and supervisory commissioners could borrow purple; on returning to court after a term, they resumed their proper rank—this was borrowing. Some robes came as special imperial favors. In Shaoxing 12/9 (1142), celebrating the Empress Dowager's return, Gentlemen for Supporting Affairs and above in scarlet or green with seventeen years of service were advanced in robe color.

三十二年六月，孝宗即位，詔承務郎以上服緋、綠及十五年者，並許改轉服色。然計年之法，亦不輕許。無出身人自年二十出官服綠日起理，服緋人亦自年二十服緋日起理，有出身人自賜出身日起理；內並除豁丁憂年、月、日不理外，曆任無過者方許焉。先是，殿中侍御史張震奏：「今日之弊，在於人有僥幸。能革其俗，然後天下可治。且改轉服色，常赦自升朝官以上服綠，大夫以上服緋，蒞事及二十年，方得改賜。今赦日承務郎以上服緋、綠及十五年，便與改轉。比之常赦，不惟年限已減，而又官品相絕，蓋已為異恩矣。今竊聞省、部欲自補官日便理歲月，即是嬰孩授命，年才十五者今遂服緋；而貴近之子，或初年賜緋，年才及冠者今遂賜紫。朱、紫紛紛，不亦濫乎？況靖康、建炎恩赦，亦不曾以補官日為始。若始於出官之日，頗為折衷，蓋比之蒞事所減已多，而比之初補粗為有節。」帝從其言，故有是命。

In the sixth month of year 32 (1165), when Xiaozong took the throne, Supporting Affairs Gentlemen and above with fifteen years in scarlet or green could advance their robe color. Even so, seniority rules were applied strictly. Men without examination degrees counted from age twenty when they first wore green in office; scarlet wearers from age twenty in scarlet; degree holders from the day their degree was conferred; mourning years were excluded, and only officials with faultless records qualified. Earlier, Palace Attendant Censor Zhang Zhen warned: "Today's abuse is opportunism. Reform that habit, and the realm can be governed. Ordinary amnesties required court officials in green and grandees in scarlet to serve twenty years before advancing robe color. This amnesty advanced Supporting Affairs Gentlemen and above in scarlet or green after only fifteen years. Compared with ordinary amnesties, the term was shorter and the ranks eligible far lower—already an extraordinary favor. I hear the ministries want to count from the day of initial appointment, so a youth of fifteen could wear scarlet; and sons of the powerful, scarlet in their first year, could receive purple before they were even twenty. Vermillion and purple everywhere—is that not abuse? Even the Jingkang and Jianyan amnesties did not count from initial appointment. Counting from the day one took office would be a compromise—less generous than counting full service, yet stricter than counting from initial appointment." The Emperor accepted this advice, hence the order on counting years.

又有出於特賜者，旌直臣則賜之，勸循吏則賜之，廣孝治則賜之，優老臣則賜之，此皆非常制焉。內品未至而賜服及借者，並於銜內帶賜及借。

Special bestowals honored upright ministers, encouraged diligent local officials, extended filial governance, and favored aged ministers—all outside the regular rules. When rank had not been reached, bestowed or borrowed robes were marked as such in the official title.

襆頭。一名折上巾，起自後周，然止以軟帛垂腳，隋始以桐木為之，唐始以羅代繒。惟帝服則腳上曲，人臣下垂。五代漸變平直。國朝之制，君臣通服平腳，乘輿或服上曲焉。其初以藤織草巾子為裏，紗為表，而塗以漆。後惟以漆為堅，去其藤裏，前為一折，平施兩腳，以鐵為之。

The Futou Headwrap. Also called the "folded-up kerchief," it began in Later Zhou with soft silk flaps; Sui used paulownia wood, and Tang replaced heavy silk with gauze. Only the emperor's flaps curved upward; ministers' hung straight down. Under the Five Dynasties the flaps gradually became straight. In our dynasty, ruler and ministers alike wear flat flaps; only the emperor sometimes wears upward-curving ones. At first the frame was rattan and grass-cloth lined, gauze surfaced, and lacquered. Later only lacquer stiffened the cap; the rattan lining was dropped; the front was folded once, two flat iron flaps attached.

帶。古惟用革，自曹魏而下，始有金、銀、銅之飾。宋制尤詳，有玉、有金、有銀、有犀，其下銅、鐵、角、石、墨玉之類，各有等差。玉帶不許施於公服。犀非品官、通犀非特旨皆禁。銅、鐵、角、石、墨玉之類，民庶及郡縣吏、伎術等人，皆得服之。

Belts. Ancient belts were leather only; from Cao Wei onward, gold, silver, and copper ornaments appeared. Song regulations were especially detailed: jade, gold, silver, and rhinoceros horn belts, and below them copper, iron, horn, stone, and dark jade, each with graded restrictions. Jade belts were not worn with ordinary court dress. Rhinoceros belts were forbidden to unranked officials, and full rhinoceros belts without special edict. Copper, iron, horn, stone, and dark jade belts were permitted to commoners, local clerks, and technical officers.

其制有金球路、荔支、師蠻、海捷、寶藏，〈（方團二十五兩；荔支自二十五兩至七兩，有四等；師蠻二十五兩；海捷十五兩；寶藏三十兩。惟球路方團胯，餘悉方胯。荔支或為禦仙花，束帶亦同。）〉金塗天王、八仙、犀牛、寶瓶、荔支、師蠻、海捷、雙鹿、行虎、窪麵。〈（天王、八仙二十五兩；犀牛、寶瓶自二十五兩至十五兩，有二等；荔支自二十兩至十兩，有三等；師蠻自二十兩至十八兩，有二等；海捷自十五兩至十兩，有三等；雙鹿自二十兩至四兩，有九等；行虎七兩；雱麵自十五兩至十二兩，有二等。）〉束帶則有金荔支、師蠻、戲童、海捷、犀牛、胡荽、鳳子、寶相花，〈（荔支自二十五兩至十五兩，有三等；師蠻、戲童二十五兩；海捷自二十兩至十兩，有二等；犀牛二十兩；鳳子、寶相花十五兩。）〉金塗犀牛、雙鹿、野馬、胡荽。〈（犀牛、野馬十五兩；雙鹿自二十兩，有三等；胡荽自十五兩至十兩，有三等。）〉犀有上等、次等，以牯牸為別。〈（出黔南者，在南海之下。）〉

Gold belt plaques included Ball-Road, Lychee, Teacher-Barbarian, Sea-Victory, and Treasure-Store, square-round plaques, twenty-five taels; lychee from twenty-five to seven taels in four grades; Teacher-Barbarian, twenty-five taels; Sea-Victory, fifteen taels; Treasure-Store, thirty taels. Only Ball-Road used square-round plaques; all others were square. lychee plaques could also be Immortal Flower; girdle belts followed the same rule.) Gilt plaques: Heavenly King, Eight Immortals, Rhinoceros, Treasure Vase, Lychee, Teacher-Barbarian, Sea-Victory, Paired Deer, Walking Tiger, and Hollow-Face. Heavenly King and Eight Immortals, twenty-five taels; rhinoceros and treasure vase from twenty-five to fifteen taels in two grades; lychee from twenty to ten taels in three grades; Teacher-Barbarian from twenty to eighteen taels in two grades; Sea-Victory from fifteen to ten taels in three grades; Paired Deer from twenty to four taels in nine grades; Walking Tiger, seven taels; Hollow-Face from fifteen to twelve taels in two grades.) Girdle belts used gold Lychee, Teacher-Barbarian, Play-Child, Sea-Victory, Rhinoceros, Coriander, Phoenix-Child, and Treasure Lotus plaques, lychee from twenty-five to fifteen taels in three grades; Teacher-Barbarian and Play-Child, twenty-five taels; Sea-Victory from twenty to ten taels in two grades; rhinoceros, twenty taels; Phoenix-Child and Treasure Lotus, fifteen taels.) Gilt girdle plaques: Rhinoceros, Paired Deer, Wild Horse, and Coriander. rhinoceros and wild horse, fifteen taels; Paired Deer from twenty taels in three grades; Coriander from fifteen to ten taels in three grades.) Rhinoceros horn belts had upper and lower grades, distinguished by male and female horn. (Horn from Qiannan ranked below that from the southern seas.)

太宗太平興國七年正月，翰林學士承旨李昉等奏曰：「奉詔詳定車服制度，請從三品以上服玉帶，四品以上服金帶，以下升朝官、雖未升朝已賜紫緋、內職諸軍將校，並服紅鞓金塗銀排方。雖升朝著綠者，公服上不得係銀帶，餘官服黑銀方團胯及犀角帶。貢士及胥吏、工商、庶人服鐵角帶，恩賜者不用此制。荔支帶本是內出以賜將相，在於庶僚，豈合僭服？望非恩賜者，官至三品乃得服之。」景德三年，詔通犀、金、玉帶，除官品合服及恩賜外，餘人不得服用。大中祥符五年，詔曰：「方團金帶，優寵輔臣，今文武庶官及伎術之流，率以金銀仿效，甚紊彝製。自今除恩賜外，悉禁之。」端拱中，詔作瑞草地球路文方團胯帶，副以金魚，賜中書、樞密院文臣。

In Taizong's seventh year of Taiping Xingguo (982), Hanlin chief Li Fang reported: "By edict we have set carriage and dress rules. Third rank and above should wear jade belts, fourth rank and above gold belts, and court officials, those granted purple or scarlet before promotion, inner staff, and military officers should wear red-strapped gilt-silver square plaques. Court officials in green could not wear silver belts with ordinary dress; other officials wore black-silver square plaques or rhinoceros belts. Exam candidates, clerks, artisans, merchants, and commoners wore iron and horn belts; those with special grants were exempt. Lychee belts were issued from the palace for chief ministers and generals—how could junior officials wear them? We ask that without special grant, only third rank and above may wear them." In Jingde 3 (1006), full rhinoceros, gold, and jade belts were forbidden except by rank or special grant. In Dazhong Xiangfu 5 (1012), an edict declared: "Square gold belts honor chief ministers, yet civil and military officials and technical officers now copy them in gold and silver, disordering proper regulations. Henceforth all such imitation is forbidden except by special grant." Under Duan-Gong (988–989), square belts with auspicious-grass and Ball-Road patterns and gold fish tally were made for Secretariat and Military Affairs civil officials.

仁宗慶曆八年，彰信軍節度使兼侍中李用和言：「伏見張耆授兼侍中日，特賜笏頭金帶以為榮異，欲望正謝日，準例特賜。」詔如耆例。

In Renzong's Qingli 8 (1048), Li Yonghe, commissioner of Zhangxin and concurrent palace attendant, noted that Zhang Qi had received a tablet-head gold belt when appointed attendant and asked for the same honor at his thanksgiving audience." The court followed Qi's precedent.

神宗熙寧六年，熙河路奏捷，宰臣王安石率群臣賀紫宸殿，神宗解所服白玉帶賜之。八年，岐王顥、嘉王頵言：「蒙賜方團玉帶，著為朝儀，乞寶藏於家，不敢服用。」神宗不許，命工別琢玉帶以賜之。顥等固辭，不聽；請加佩金魚以別嫌，詔以玉魚賜之。親王佩玉魚自此始。宗旦、宗諤皆以使相遇郊恩告謝，特賜球文方團金帶、佩魚，自是宗室節度帶同平章事者，著為例。宣徽使張方平、郭逵、王拱辰皆嘗特賜。元豐五年，詔：「三師、三公、宰相、執政官、開府儀同三司、節度使嘗任宰相者、觀文殿大學士已上，金球文方團帶，佩魚。觀文殿學士至寶文閣直學士、節度使、御史大夫、中丞、六曹尚書、侍郎、散騎常侍御仙花帶，內御史大夫、六曹尚書、翰林學士以上及資政殿學士特班翰林學士上者，仍佩魚。」六年，詔：「北使經過處，守臣曾借朝議大夫者，令權服紫，不係金帶。其押賜御筵官仍互借，先借朝議大夫者，即借中散大夫，並許係金帶，不佩魚。」哲宗元祐五年，詔：臣僚曾賜金帶後至不該係者，在外許係。

In Shenzong's Xining 6 (1073), after the Xihe victory report, Wang Anshi led the ministers to congratulate at the Zichen Hall, and Shenzong gave him the white jade belt from his own waist. In year 8, Princes Hao of Qi and Yun of Jia said: "We were granted square jade belts as court regalia but beg to keep them at home and not wear them." Shenzong refused and had separate jade belts carved for them. They declined again, but he would not hear of it; they asked to wear gold fish to avoid suspicion, and an edict granted them jade fish instead. Imperial princes wearing jade fish tally began here. Zongdan and Zong'e, on meeting envoys at suburban amnesty audiences, received Ball-pattern gold belts and fish tally; thereafter this became precedent for imperial clansmen who were commissioners with Grand Councilor rank. Palace commissioners Zhang Fangping, Guo Kui, and Wang Gongchen had all received such special grants. In the fifth year of Yuanfeng (1082), an edict fixed: "Grand preceptors, three dukes, chancellors, participating officials, honorary grandees, former chancellors serving as commissioners, and Viewing Literature grand academicians and above wore gold Ball-pattern belts with fish tally. Viewing Literature academicians through Treasuring Literature expositor-rank, commissioners, censors-in-chief and vice, ministry directors and vice ministers, and regular attendants wore Immortal Flower belts; censors-in-chief, ministry directors, Hanlin academicians and above, and Policy Council academicians ranked above Hanlin still wore fish tally." In year 6, where northern envoys passed, officials who had borrowed Grandee for Court Discussion rank could temporarily wear purple without gold belts. Banquet escorts could borrow ranks from one another—Court Discussion grandee, then Palace Attendance grandee—with gold belts but no fish tally." In Zhezong's Yuanyou 5 (1090), officials once granted gold belts who no longer qualified by rank could still wear them outside the capital.

徽宗崇寧二年，詔：六尚局奉御，今後許服金帶。四年，中書省檢會哲宗《元符儀製令》：「諸帶，三師、三公、宰相、執政官、使相、節度使、觀文殿大學士球文，佩魚。節度使非曾任宰相即禦仙花，佩魚。觀文殿學士至寶文閣直學士、御史大夫、中丞、六曹尚書、侍郎、散騎常侍並禦仙花，權侍郎不同；內御史大夫、六曹尚書、觀文殿學士至翰林學士仍佩魚，資政殿學士特旨班在翰林學士上者同，權尚書不同。其官職未至而特賜者，不拘此令。因任職事官經賜金帶者，雖後任不該賜，亦許服。」看詳：若稱因任六曹侍郎經賜帶，後除知開封府之類，既非職事官，又非在外，皆不許係，似非元立法之意。蓋立文該舉未盡，其特賜者既不緣官職，自無時不許係外；因任職事官賜金帶，後任不該者亦許服，即在外與在京非職事官，皆可用。詔申明行下。大觀二年，詔中書舍人、諫議大夫、待制、殿中少監許係紅鞓犀帶，不佩魚。

In Huizong's Chongning 2 (1103), attendants of the Six Inner Bureaus were allowed to wear gold belts. In year 4, the Secretariat reviewed Zhezong's Yuanfu ritual code: "Grand preceptors, three dukes, chancellors, participating officials, envoy-chancellors, commissioners, and Viewing Literature grand academicians wore Ball-pattern belts with fish tally. Commissioners who had not been chancellor wore Immortal Flower belts with fish tally. Viewing Literature academicians through Treasuring Literature expositor-rank, censors, ministry directors and vice ministers, and regular attendants wore Immortal Flower belts; acting vice ministers did not; among these, censors-in-chief, ministry directors, Viewing Literature academicians through Hanlin, and Policy Council academicians ranked above Hanlin still wore fish tally; acting directors did not. Special grants were not bound by these rules. Officials granted gold belts while holding substantive office could continue to wear them even if later posts did not qualify." Review noted: if a vice minister granted a belt later became Kaifeng prefect—a post neither substantive nor outside the capital—he could not wear it, which seemed contrary to the original law. The text was incomplete. Special grants, not tied to office, were always permitted outside the capital; belts granted in substantive office could still be worn in later posts that did not qualify, whether in the capital or outside. An edict clarified and circulated the rule. In Daguan 2 (1108), Secretariat drafters, remonstrance grandees, academicians-in-waiting, and palace vice directors could wear red-strapped rhinoceros belts without fish tally.

中興仍之，其等亦有玉、有金、有銀、有金塗銀、有犀、有通犀、有角。其制，球文者四方五團，禦仙花者排方。凡金帶：三公、左右丞相、三少、使相、執政官、觀文殿大學士、節度使球文，佩魚；觀文殿學士至華文閣直學士、御史大夫、中丞、六曹尚書、侍郎、散騎常侍、開封尹、給事中並禦仙花，內御史大夫、六曹尚書、觀文殿學士至翰林學士仍佩魚；中書舍人、左右諫議大夫、龍圖天章寶文顯謨徽猷敷文煥章華文閣待制、權侍郎服紅鞓排方黑犀帶，仍佩魚；權侍郎以上罷任不帶職者，亦許服之。

After the Restoration these rules continued, with jade, gold, silver, gilt silver, rhinoceros, full rhinoceros, and horn belts. Ball-pattern belts had five roundels on four sides; Immortal Flower belts used a row of square plaques. Gold belts: the three dukes, left and right chancellors, three juniors, envoy-chancellors, participating officials, Viewing Literature grand academicians, and commissioners wore Ball pattern with fish tally; Viewing Literature academicians through Splendid Culture expositor-rank, censors, ministry directors and vice ministers, regular attendants, Kaifeng intendant, and drafting attendants wore Immortal Flower; censors-in-chief, ministry directors, and Viewing Literature academicians through Hanlin still wore fish tally; Secretariat drafters, remonstrance grandees, hall academicians-in-waiting of the various imperial libraries, and acting vice ministers wore red-strapped square black rhinoceros belts with fish tally; Former acting vice ministers and higher ranks without retained titles could still wear them.

魚袋。其制自唐始，蓋以為符契也。其始曰魚符，左一，右一。左者進內，左者隨身，刻官姓名，出入合之。因盛以袋，故曰魚袋。宋因之，其制以金銀飾為魚形，公服則係於帶而垂於後，以明貴賤，非復如唐之符契也。

The Fish Tally Pouch. The practice began in Tang as a tally token. Originally called fish tally, there was one left piece and one right piece. The left piece was kept in the palace, the right carried on the person, engraved with the official's name and matched on entry and exit. Because it was kept in a pouch, it was called the fish tally pouch. Song followed the practice with gold or silver fish ornaments fastened to the belt and hanging behind to mark rank, no longer serving as Tang-style tally tokens.

太宗雍熙元年，南郊後，內出以賜近臣，由是內外升朝文武官皆佩魚。凡服紫者，飾以金；服緋者，飾以銀。庭賜紫，則給金塗銀者；賜緋，亦有特給者。京官、幕職州縣官賜緋紫者，亦佩。親王武官、內職將校皆不佩。真宗大中祥符六年，詔伎術官未升朝賜緋、紫者，不得佩魚。

In Taizong's Yongxi 1 (984), after the southern suburban sacrifice, fish tally were issued to intimate ministers, and thereafter all court officials wore them. Those in purple wore gold fish; those in scarlet, silver. Purple granted at court received gilt silver fish; scarlet grants sometimes received special fish as well. Capital officials, staff appointees, and local officials granted scarlet or purple also wore fish tally. Imperial princes, military officers, and inner-service commanders did not wear them. In Zhenzong's Dazhong Xiangfu 6 (1013), technical officers granted scarlet or purple before reaching court rank could not wear fish tally.

仁宗天聖二年，翰林待詔、太子中舍同正王文度因勒碑賜紫章服，以舊佩銀魚，請佩金魚。仁宗曰：「先朝不許伎術人輒佩魚，以別士類，不令混淆，宜卻其請。」景祐三年，詔殿中省尚藥奉御賜紫徐安仁，特許佩魚。至和元年，詔：中書提點五房公事，自今雖無出身，亦聽佩魚。舊制，自選人入為堂後官，轉至五房提點，始得佩魚。提點五房呂惟和非選人入，援司天監五官正例求佩魚，特許之。

In Renzong's Tiansheng 2 (1024), Hanlin awaiting-edict Wang Wendu, granted purple regalia for carving a stele, asked to exchange his silver fish for gold. Renzong said: "The previous court forbade technical officers to wear fish tally, to keep them distinct from scholars. Refuse his request." In Jingyou 3 (1036), Xu Anren of the Imperial Pharmacy, granted purple, was specially allowed to wear fish tally. In Zhihe 1 (1054), Secretariat supervisors of the Five Chambers could wear fish tally even without examination degrees. Previously, one entered as a selection candidate, became a rear-hall clerk, and only as Five Chambers supervisor received fish tally. Five Chambers supervisor Lv Weiyu, not a selection-route appointee, cited the Astronomical Observatory precedent and was specially granted fish tally.

神宗元豐二年，蒲宗孟除翰林學士，神宗曰：「學士職清地近，非它官比，而官儀未寵，自今宜加佩魚。」遂著為令。三年，詔：自今中書堂後官，並帶賜緋魚袋，餘依舊例。徽宗政和元年，尚書兵部侍郎王詔奏：「今監司、守、倅等，並許借服色而不許佩魚，即是有服而無章，殆與吏無別。乞今後應借緋、紫臣僚，並許隨服色佩魚，仍各許入銜，候回日依舊服色。」從之。中興，並仍舊制。

In Shenzong's the second year of Yuanfeng (1079), when Pu Zongmeng became Hanlin academician, Shenzong said: "The Hanlin post is eminent and close to the throne, yet its ritual honors are insufficient. Henceforth Hanlin academicians shall wear fish tally." This became regulation. In year 3, Secretariat rear-hall officials were all granted scarlet fish tally pouches; others followed precedent. In Huizong's Zhenghe 1 (1111), Vice Minister of War Wang Zhao argued: "Supervisory commissioners, prefects, and deputies may borrow robe colors but not fish tally—dress without insignia, barely distinct from clerks. Let all who borrow scarlet or purple also wear matching fish tally and note it in their titles, resuming normal dress on return." The court agreed. After the Restoration, the old rules remained in force.

笏。唐制五品以上用象。上圓下方；六品以下用竹、木，上挫下方。宋文散五品以上用象，九品以上用木。武臣、內職並用象，千牛衣綠亦用象，廷賜緋、綠者給之。中興同。

The Court Tablet. Under Tang rules, fifth rank and above used ivory tablets. Round at the top, square at the bottom; sixth rank and below used bamboo or wood, beveled at the top and square below. Song civil officials of fifth rank and above used ivory; ninth rank and above used wood. Military officers and inner staff all used ivory; Thousand-Ox guards in green did as well; scarlet or green grants at court included tablets. After the Restoration, the same rules applied.

靴。宋初沿舊制，朝履用靴。政和更定禮制，改靴用履。中興仍之。乾道七年，復改用靴，以黑革為之，大抵參用履製，惟加靿焉。其飾亦有絇、繶、純、綦，大夫以上具四飾，朝請、武功郎以下去繶，從義、宣教郎以下至將校、伎術官並去純。底用麻再重，革一重。裏用素衲氈，高八寸。諸文武官通服之，惟以四飾為別。服綠者飾以綠，服緋、紫者飾亦如之，仿古隨裳色之意。

Boots. Early Song followed precedent: court dress used boots. Under Zhenghe ritual reform, boots were replaced with court shoes. After the Restoration, shoes remained in use. In Qiandao 7 (1171), boots returned, black leather, largely following shoe rules but with higher uppers. Ornaments included laces, side pieces, borders, and ties; grandees kept all four; Court Gentlemen and below dropped side pieces; lower ranks and technical officers dropped borders as well. Soles had double hemp layers and one leather layer. Linings were plain quilted felt, eight inches high. All civil and military officials wore them, distinguished only by the four ornaments. Green robes had green ornaments; scarlet and purple likewise, reviving the ancient practice of matching footwear to dress.

簪戴。襆頭簪花，謂之簪戴。中興，郊祀、明堂禮畢回鑾，臣僚及扈從並簪花，恭謝日亦如之。大羅花以紅、黃、銀紅三色，欒枝以雜色羅，大絹花以紅、銀紅二色。羅花以賜百官，欒枝，卿監以上有之；絹花以賜將校以下。太上兩宮上壽畢，及聖節、及錫宴、及賜新進士聞喜宴，並如之。

Flower Wearing. Flowers pinned in the futou were called "flower wearing." After the Restoration, officials and escorts wore flowers when the emperor returned from suburban and Bright Hall rites, and on thanksgiving days as well. Large gauze flowers came in red, yellow, and silver-red; spray branches in mixed gauze; large silk flowers in red and silver-red. Gauze flowers went to all officials; spray branches to directors and above; silk flowers to commanders and below. The same applied after the retired emperor's longevity celebrations, on imperial birthdays, at grant banquets, and at new jinshi celebratory feasts.

重戴。唐士人多尚之，蓋古大裁帽之遺製，本野夫岩叟之服。以皂羅為之，方而垂簷，紫裏，兩紫絲組為纓，垂而結之頷下。所謂重戴者，蓋折上巾又加以帽焉。宋初，御史臺皆重戴，餘官或戴或否。後新進士亦戴，至釋褐則止。太宗淳化二年，御史臺言：「舊儀，三院御史在台及出使，並重戴，事已久廢。其御史出台為省職及在京厘務者，請依舊儀，違者罰俸一月。」從之。又詔兩省及尚書省五品以上皆重戴，樞密三司使、副則不。中興後，御史、兩製、知貢舉官、新進士上三人，許服之。

The Chongdai Hat. Tang scholars favored it—a survival of the ancient large-cut cap, originally worn by recluses and mountain elders. It was black gauze, square with a hanging brim, purple lined, with two purple silk cords knotted under the chin. The so-called chongdai was the folded-up cap with a hat worn over it. Early in the Song, the entire Censorate wore the chongdai; other officials might or might not. Later, new jinshi wore it too, until they left student dress upon taking office. In 991, the Censorate reported: "Under the old ritual, censors of all three bureaus at headquarters and on assignment wore the chongdai—a custom long abandoned. For censors posted to provincial offices or handling business in the capital, we ask that the old ritual be restored; violators shall forfeit one month's salary." The court approved. An edict also required fifth-rank officials and above in both Secretariats and the Secretariat to wear the chongdai; Military Affairs and Fiscal Commission chiefs and deputies did not. After the restoration, censors, Hanlin drafters, chief examiners, and the top three new jinshi were allowed to wear it.

時服。宋初因五代舊制，每歲諸臣皆賜時服，然止賜將相、學士、禁軍大校。建隆三年，太祖謂侍臣曰：「百官不賜，甚無謂也。」乃遍賜之。歲遇端午、十月一日，文武群臣將校皆給焉。是歲十月，近臣、軍校增給錦襯袍，中書門下、樞密、宣徽院、節度使及侍衛步軍都虞候以上，皇親大將軍以上，天下樂暈錦；三司使、學士、中丞、內客省使、駙馬、留後、觀察使，皇親將軍、諸司使、廂主以上，簇四盤雕細錦；三司副使、宮觀判官，黃師子大錦；防禦團練使、刺史、皇親諸司副使，翠毛細錦；權中丞、知開封府、銀台司、審刑院及待制以上，知檢院鼓院、同三司副使、六統軍、金吾大將軍，紅錦。諸班及諸軍將校，亦賜窄錦袍。有翠毛、宜男、雲雁細錦，師子、練鵲、寶照大錦，寶照中錦，凡七等。

Seasonal Dress Gifts Early Song followed the Five Dynasties practice of annual seasonal gifts, but only chief ministers, academicians, and senior palace-guard officers received them. In 962, Taizu told his attendants: "Leaving the whole bureaucracy out makes no sense at all. He then extended the gift to everyone. Every year at the Dragon Boat Festival and on the first day of the tenth month, civil and military officials and officers all received seasonal dress. That October, close ministers and officers also received lined brocade robes. Secretariat-Chancellery, Military Affairs, Palace Service, military commissioners, Palace Guard infantry chief commandants and above, and imperial clansmen major generals and above received All-Under-Heaven-Rejoicing halo brocade; Fiscal commissioners, academicians, vice censors, Inner Store commissioners, consorts, regents, and observation commissioners; imperial clansmen generals, bureau commissioners, and commandery chiefs and above received Cluster-Four-Trays carved fine brocade; Fiscal deputies and palace-abbey judges received Yellow Lion Cub great brocade; Defense-train commissioners, prefects, and imperial-clan deputy commissioners received emerald-feather fine brocade; Acting vice censors, the Kaifeng prefect, Silver Platform and Review Court officials, drafters and above, inspection and drum-court officers, fiscal-deputy equivalents, six army commanders, and Golden Guard major generals received red brocade. Guard officers and army commanders also received narrow brocade robes. Patterns included emerald-feather, Propitious Male, and Cloud-Goose fine brocades; lion, trained magpie, and Treasure-Shine great brocades; and Treasure-Shine medium brocade—seven grades in all.

應給錦袍者，皆五事；〈（公服、錦寬袍，綾汗衫、袴，勒帛，丞郎、給舍、大卿監以上不給錦袍者，加以黃綾繡抱肚。）〉大將軍、少卿監、郎中以上，樞密諸房副承旨以上，諸司使，皇親承製、崇班，皆四事；〈（無錦袍。）〉將軍至副率、知雜御史至大理正、入內都知、內侍都知、皇親殿直以上，皆三事；〈（無袴。）〉通事舍人、承製、崇班、入內押班、內侍副都知押班、內常侍、六尚奉御以下，京官充館閣、宗正寺、刑法官者，皆二事；〈（無勒帛，內職汗衫以綾，文臣以絹。）〉閣門祗候、內供奉官至殿直，京官編修、校勘，止給公服。端午，亦給。應給錦袍者，汗衫以黃縠，別加繡抱肚、小扇。誕聖節所給，如時服。〈（京師禁廂軍校、衛士、內諸司胥史、工巧人，並給服有差。）〉

Recipients of brocade robes received five items each; (official dress, brocade wide robe, gauze undershirt and trousers, and girdle belt; vice directors, drafting compilers, and grand supervisors and above who did not receive brocade robes also received a yellow gauze embroidered belly band.) Major generals, vice directors and supervisors, bureau directors and above, Military Affairs deputy commissioners and above, bureau commissioners, and imperial-clan appointees and honored ranks received four items each; (no brocade robe.) Generals through deputy commandants, assorted censors through Review Court directors, Inner Service directors, eunuch directors, and imperial-clan palace appointees and above received three items each; (no trousers.) Herald registrars, appointees, honored ranks, Inner Service and eunuch deputy directors, inner regular attendants, six inner-office attendants and below, and capital officials in institutes, the clanship court, or judicial offices received two items each; (no girdle belt; inner staff received gauze undershirts, civil officials silk ones.) Gate attendants, inner tribute officials through palace appointees, and capital officials who compiled or collated received only official dress. The Dragon Boat Festival brought gifts as well. Brocade-robe recipients also received yellow gauze-weave undershirts, plus an embroidered belly band and a small fan. Birthday-of-the-Sage gifts followed the same rules as seasonal dress. (Capital forbidden-guard officers and guards, inner-office clerks, and artisans all received graded clothing.)

朝官、京官、內職出為外任通判、監押、巡檢以上者，〈（大藩府監務者，亦或給之。）〉每歲十月時服，開寶中，皆賜窄錦袍。太平興國以後，文官知制誥、武官上將軍、內職諸司使以上，皆賜錦。〈（藩鎮觀察使以上，天下樂暈錦；尚書及步軍都虞候以上及知益州、并州，次暈錦，皆五事。學士、丞郎，簇四盤雕錦；刺史以上及知廣州，翠毛錦，皆三件。待制以上、橫班諸司使，翠毛錦；知代州，禦仙花錦；諸司使領郡，宜男錦；諸司使，雲雁錦。駙馬，錦如丞郎，增至四事。益州鈐轄，錦從本官，增綾袴。）〉朝官供奉官以上，皆賜紫地皂花欹正。京官殿直以下，皆賜紫大綾。在外禁軍將校，亦賜窄錦袍，次賜紫綾色絹。景德元年，始詔河北、河東、陝西三路轉運使、副，並給方勝練鵲錦。校獵從官兼賜紫羅錦、旋襴、暖靴。

Court officials, capital officials, and inner staff posted outside as superintendents, supervisors, or inspectors and above, (commissioners of major prefectures sometimes received them as well.) During the Kaibao era, everyone posted outside received narrow brocade robes each year for the tenth-month seasonal gift. After Taiping-Xingguo, edict drafters, senior generals, and inner bureau commissioners and above all received brocade. (Observation commissioners and above received All-Under-Heaven-Rejoicing halo brocade; Secretariat directors, infantry chief commandants and above, and the prefects of Yizhou and Bingzhou received secondary halo brocade—five items each. Academicians and vice directors received Cluster-Four-Trays carved brocade; Prefects and above and the Guangzhou prefect received emerald-feather brocade—three items each. Drafters and above and lateral-rank bureau commissioners received emerald-feather brocade; The Daizhou prefect received Imperial-Immortal-Flower brocade; Bureau commissioners who also held prefectures received Propitious Male brocade; Bureau commissioners received Cloud-Goose brocade. Consorts received brocade like vice directors, raised to four items. The Yizhou military commander followed his base rank for brocade and also received gauze trousers.) Court officials of tribute-official rank and above received purple-ground black-flower slanting-front robes. Capital officials at palace-appointee rank and below received great purple gauze. Posted forbidden-army officers also received narrow brocade robes, then purple gauze-colored silk. In 1004, transport commissioners and deputies on the Hebei, Hedong, and Shaanxi circuits were first ordered to receive Square-Victory trained-magpie brocade. Hunting retinue officials also received purple gauze brocade, twisted damask, and warm boots.

雍熙四年，令節度使給皂地金線盤雲鳳鹿胎旋襴，侍衛步軍都虞候以上給皂地金線盤花鴛鴦。

In 987, military commissioners received black-ground gold-thread coiled cloud-phoenix-deer-fetus twisted damask; Palace Guard infantry chief commandants and above received black-ground gold-thread coiled-flower mandarin ducks.

親王、宰相、使相生日，並賜衣五事，錦彩百匹，金花銀器百兩，馬二匹，金塗銀鞍勒一。宰相、樞密使、參知政事、樞密副使、宣徽使初拜、加恩中謝日，並賜衣五事，金帶一，〈（舊荔支帶，淳化後，宰相、參知政事、文臣任樞密副使，改賜方團胯球路金帶，加以金魚。）〉塗金銀鞍勒馬一。三司使、學士、御史中丞初拜中謝日，賜衣五事，荔支金帶一，塗金銀鞍勒馬一。〈（文明學士以下，初賜金裝犀帶，後改賜金帶。）〉中書舍人，賜襲衣、犀帶。宰相以下對禦抬賜；樞密直學士、中書舍人謝訖，中使押賜，再入謝於別殿。中書舍人或告謝日已改賜章服，則罷中使押賜。

Princes, chancellors, and commissioner-prime ministers each received five garments, a hundred bolts of brocade silk, a hundred taels of gold-flower silver vessels, two horses, and a gold-plated silver saddle and bridle on their birthdays. On first appointment and grace mid-thanks days, the chancellor, Military Affairs commissioner, Vice Grand Councilor, Military Affairs deputy, and Palace Service commissioner each received five garments and a gold belt, (They had formerly received the Lychee belt; after Chunhua, the chancellor, Vice Grand Councilor, and civil Military Affairs deputies received square-round hip Ball-Road gold belts with gold fish tallies.) And one horse with a gold-plated silver saddle and bridle. On first appointment mid-thanks days, fiscal commissioners, academicians, and censor vice-directors received five garments, a Lychee gold belt, and a horse with gold-plated silver saddle and bridle. (Civilized Court academicians and below first received gold-mounted rhinoceros belts, later changed to gold belts.) Secretariat drafting officials received court dress and rhinoceros belts. The chancellor and those below him received gifts in person before the throne; Military Affairs direct academicians and Secretariat drafting officials, after giving thanks, received gifts from an inner envoy and thanked again in a side hall. If a drafting official had already received insignia dress on the thanks day, the inner envoy escort was omitted.

郊禋禮畢，親王、宰相至龍圖閣直學士、禁軍將校，各賜襲衣、金帶，〈（親王、中書門下、樞密、宣徽、三司使、四廂都指揮使以上，加鞍勒馬一。其後宮觀副使、天書扶侍使，並同學士。）〉同中謝日。雍熙元年，兩省五品以上，御史臺、尚書省四品以上，各賜襲衣、犀帶、魚袋。其為五使，則皆賜金帶，仍各加器幣。〈（文武行事官，各賜金帛。牧伯在外者，遇大禮，不賜。大中祥符元年，詔節度、觀察、防禦、團練使，刺史，因東封為諸州部署鈐轄者，並特賜焉。）〉

After the suburban rites, princes, chancellors through Dragon Pavilion direct academicians, and forbidden-army officers each received court dress and gold belts, (Princes; Secretariat-Chancellery; Military Affairs; Palace Service; Fiscal Commission; and four-wing chief commanders and above also received a saddle horse; later, palace-abbey deputy commissioners and Heavenly Book attendant commissioners were treated like academicians.) The procedure matched mid-thanks day. In 984, fifth-rank officials and above in both Secretariats and fourth-rank officials and above in the Censorate and Secretariat each received court dress, rhinoceros belts, and fish pouches. The Five Commissioners all received gold belts plus ritual vessels. (Civil and military procession officials each received gold and silk. Regional governors posted outside received nothing on great rites. In 1008, military, observation, and defense-train commissioners and prefects serving as deployment commanders for the eastern march were specially included.)

使相、節度使自鎮來朝入見日，賜衣五事，金帶，鞍馬；朝辭日，賜窄衣六事，金束帶，鞍勒馬一，散馬二；〈（節度使減散馬。）〉為都部署者，別賜帶甲鞍勒馬一。觀察使為都部署、副都部署赴本任、知州，賜窄衣三事，金束帶，鞍勒馬。防禦團練使、刺史為部署、鈐轄，賜窄衣三事，金束帶；赴本任，賜窄衣三事，塗金銀腰帶；為知州、都監，賜窄衣三事，絹三十匹。諸司為鈐轄者，賜窄衣、金束帶。文武官內職出為知州軍、通判、發運、轉運使副、提點刑獄、都監、巡檢、砦主、軍使及任使繁要者，僕射賜窄衣三事，絹五十匹；尚書、丞郎、學士、諫舍、待制、大卿監及統軍、上將軍、諸司使，減絹二十匹；少卿監至五官正、大將軍至副率、諸司副使，減絹一十匹；中郎將、京官內殿承製至借職、內常侍，減衣二事，又減絹一十匹。窄衣，起二月給紫羅衫；起十月給紫欹正錦襖。〈（給公服者，單夾亦然。）〉諸道衙內指揮使、都虞候入貢辭日，賜紫羅窄衫，金塗銀帶。

When commissioner-prime ministers and military commissioners came from their posts for audience, they received five garments, a gold belt, and saddle horses; on the farewell audience they received six items of narrow dress, a gold binding belt, one saddle horse, and two loose horses; (military commissioners received fewer loose horses.) Overall deployment commanders also received an armored saddle horse. Observation commissioners serving as deployment or deputy deployment commanders, or prefects heading to post, received three items of narrow dress, a gold binding belt, and a saddle horse. Defense-train commissioners and prefects serving as deployment or military commanders received three items of narrow dress and a gold binding belt; on departure for post they received three items of narrow dress and a gold-plated silver waist belt; as prefect or chief supervisor they received three items of narrow dress and thirty bolts of silk. Bureau commissioners serving as military commanders received narrow dress and a gold binding belt. Civil and military officials and inner staff posted as prefecture superintendents, vice prefects, transport commissioners or deputies, judicial intendants, chief supervisors, inspectors, fort chiefs, army commissioners, or to important posts received graded gifts—Vice Directors three items of narrow dress and fifty bolts of silk; Secretariat Directors, vice directors, academicians, remonstrance and drafting officials, drafters, grand supervisors, army commanders, senior generals, and bureau commissioners received twenty bolts less; vice supervisors through Five Offices directors, major generals through deputy commandants, and deputy commissioners received ten bolts less; central cadet guards, capital officials from inner-hall appointee through borrowed rank, and inner regular attendants lost two garments and another ten bolts of silk. Narrow dress began with purple gauze shirts issued from the second month; from the tenth month, purple slanting-front brocade jackets. (Recipients of public dress received both unlined and lined garments as well.) When circuit palace-guard commandants and chief adjutants came to present tribute or bid farewell at court, they received purple gauze narrow shirts and gold-plated silver belts.

士庶人車服之制。太宗太平興國七年，詔曰：「士庶之間，車服之制，至於喪葬，各有等差。近年以來，頗成逾僭。宣令翰林學士承旨李昉詳定以聞。」昉奏：「今後富商大賈乘馬，漆素鞍者勿禁。近年品官綠袍及舉子白襴下皆服紫色，亦請禁之。其私第便服，許紫皂衣、白袍。舊制，庶人服白，今請流外官及貢舉人、庶人通許服皂。工商、庶人家乘簷子，或用四人、八人，請禁斷，聽乘車；兜子，舁不得過二人。」並從之。端拱二年，詔縣鎮場務諸色公人並庶人、商賈、伎術、不係官伶人，只許服皂、白衣，鐵、角帶，不得服紫。文武升朝官及諸司副使、禁軍指揮使、廂軍都虞候之家子弟，不拘此限。襆頭巾子，自今高不過二寸五分。婦人假髻並宜禁斷，仍不得作高髻及高冠。其銷金、泥金、真珠裝綴衣服，除命婦許服外，餘人並禁。至道元年，復許庶人服紫。

Regulations governing carriages and dress among the gentry and common people. In 982, Emperor Taizong decreed: "Among gentry and commoners alike, rules for carriages, clothing, and even burial each observe their proper ranks. In recent years, however, people have grown brazen in overstepping those ranks. He directed Li Fang, Academician-Recipient of the Hanlin Academy, to work out detailed rules and report back." Li Fang replied: "Henceforth wealthy merchants who ride horses with plain lacquered saddles should not be barred. Lately ranked officials in green robes and examination candidates beneath white barred robes have all taken to wearing purple; I ask that this be forbidden as well. For informal wear at home, purple-black garments and white robes may still be allowed. By old custom commoners wore white; I now ask that off-register officials, examination candidates, and commoners alike be allowed to wear black. Merchants, artisans, and common households who ride sedan chairs with four or eight bearers should be stopped from doing so and allowed only wheeled carriages; and for carrying-couches, no more than two bearers." The court approved all of it. In 989, an edict limited county clerks, market agents, public runners of every sort, commoners, merchants, artisans, and private entertainers to black or white dress and iron or horn belts, forbidding purple. Sons of civil and military court officials, bureau vice commissioners, palace-guard commandants, and garrison chief adjutants were exempt. Futou crests were henceforth capped at two cun and five fen in height. Women's false topknots were to be banned outright, along with high chignons and tall crowns. Garments trimmed with gold leaf, gold paste, or pearls were forbidden to everyone except titled ladies. In 995, commoners were again allowed to wear purple.

真宗咸平四年，禁民間造銀鞍瓦、金線、盤蹙金線。大中祥符元年，三司言：「竊惟山澤之寶，所得至難，儻縱銷釋，實為虛費。今約天下所用，歲不下十萬兩，俾上幣棄於下民。自今金銀箔線，貼金、銷金、泥金、蹙金線裝貼什器土木玩用之物，並請禁斷，非命婦不得以為首飾。冶工所用器，悉送官。諸州寺觀有以金箔飾尊像者，據申三司，聽自齎金銀工價，就文思院換給。」從之。二年，詔申禁熔金以飾器服。又太常博士知溫州李邈言：「兩浙僧求丐金銀、珠玉，錯末和泥以為塔像，有高袤丈者。毀碎珠寶，浸以成俗，望嚴行禁絕，違者重論。」從之。

In 1001, Emperor Zhenzong banned the private making of silver saddle tiles, gold thread, and coiled gold thread. In 1008, the Finance Commission said: "The treasures of mountain and marsh are won only with great difficulty; to allow them to be melted down would be sheer waste. By our estimate the empire now consumes no less than one hundred thousand taels a year, letting the sovereign's coin drain down to the populace. Henceforth gold and silver foil and thread, gilding, gold leaf, gold paste, and chased gold thread on household goods, furniture, and trinkets should all be banned, and only titled ladies may wear gold in their hair. Every implement used by smelters must be turned over to the government. Temples and monasteries that gild sacred images must report to the Finance Commission and may, at their own cost for materials and labor, obtain supplies through the Palace Ateliers." The court approved. The next year an edict renewed the ban on melting gold to ornament vessels and clothing. Li Miao, Doctor of the Court of Imperial Sacrifices and acting prefect of Wenzhou, also reported: "Monks in the two Zhes beg for gold, silver, and gems, mix the filings with clay to cast pagoda images a zhang or more in height. They grind precious stones to dust until it has become custom; we ask that this be strictly forbidden, with heavy punishment for offenders." The court approved.

七年，禁民間服銷金及鈸遮那纈。八年，詔：「內庭自中宮以下，並不得銷金、貼金、間金、戭金、圈金、解金、剔金、陷金、明金、泥金、楞金、背影金、盤金、織金、金線拈絲，裝著衣服，並不得以金為飾。其外庭臣庶家，悉皆禁斷。臣民舊有者，限一月許回易。為真像前供養物，應寺觀裝功德用金箔，須具殿位真像顯合增修創造數，經官司陳狀勘會，詣實聞奏，方給公憑，詣三司收買。其明金裝假果、花板、樂身之類，應金為裝彩物，降詔前已有者，更不毀壞，自餘悉禁。違者，犯人及工匠皆坐。」是年，又禁民間服皂班纈衣。

In the seventh year, the people were forbidden to wear gold-leaf garments and bó-zhē-nà tie-dye. In the eighth year an edict declared: "From the empress down through the inner palace, no one may adorn clothing with gold leaf, applied gold, interlaid gold, hammered gold, ringed gold, cut gold, carved gold, inset gold, bright gold, gold paste, ribbed gold, shadow gold, coiled gold, woven gold, or gold thread twisted with silk, nor use gold as ornament in any form. Officials and common households beyond the inner court were forbidden as well. Existing items among officials and the people had to be disposed of within one month. Offerings before true images and temple merit-work that use gold leaf required a full account of halls, images, and items due for repair or new creation, verification by officials, truthful report to the throne, and only then an official warrant to buy supplies from the Finance Commission. Gilt imitation fruit, decorative panels, instrument bodies, and similar gold-trimmed objects already in hand before the edict need not be destroyed; everything else was banned. Offenders and the craftsmen who served them were both punished." That same year the people were also forbidden to wear black barred tie-dye.

仁宗天聖三年，詔：「在京士庶不得衣黑褐地白花衣服並藍、黃、紫地撮暈花樣，婦女不得將白色、褐色毛段並淡褐色匹帛製造衣服，令開封府限十日斷絕；婦女出入乘騎，在路披毛褐以禦風塵者，不在禁限。」七年，詔士庶、僧道無得以朱漆飾床榻。九年，禁京城造朱紅器皿。

In 1025, Emperor Renzong decreed: "Gentry and commoners in the capital may not wear black-brown garments patterned with white flowers, nor blue, yellow, or purple grounds with gathered halo designs; women may not make clothing from white or brown woolens or pale-brown silks; the Kaifeng prefecture must end this within ten days; Women who rode out wearing woolen cloaks on the road against wind and dust were exempt." Seven years later, gentry, commoners, monks, and priests were forbidden to lacquer bed platforms in cinnabar red. In the ninth year the capital was forbidden to manufacture vermilion-red vessels.

景祐元年，詔禁錦背、繡背、遍地密花透背采段，其稀花團窠、斜窠雜花不相連者非。二年，詔：市肆造作縷金為婦人首飾等物者禁。三年，「臣庶之家，毋得采捕鹿胎製造冠子。又屋宇非邸店、樓閣臨街市之處，毋得為四鋪作鬧鬥八；非品官毋得起門屋；非宮室、寺觀毋得彩繪棟宇及朱黝漆梁柱窗牖、雕鏤柱礎。凡器用毋得表裏朱漆、金漆，下毋得襯朱。非三品以上官及宗室、戚裏之家，毋得用金棱器，其用銀者毋得塗金。玳瑁酒食器，非宮禁毋得用。純金器若經賜者，聽用之。凡命婦許以金為首飾，及為小兒鈐鋜、釵篸、钅川纏、珥環之屬；仍毋得為牙魚、飛魚、奇巧飛動若龍形者。非命婦之家，毋得以真珠裝綴首飾、衣服，及項珠、纓絡、耳墜、頭{須巾}、抹子之類。凡帳幔、繳壁、承塵、柱衣、額道、項帕、覆旌、床裙，毋得用純錦遍繡。宗室戚裏茶簷、食合，毋得以緋紅蓋覆。豪貴之族所乘坐車，毋得用朱漆及五彩裝繪，若用黝而間以五彩者聽。民間毋得乘簷子，及以銀骨朵、水罐引喝隨行。」

In 1034, brocade-backed, embroidery-backed, and dense all-over openwork silks were banned, but sparse floral roundels and disconnected slanting sprays were not. The next year shops were forbidden to make filigree-gold women's hair ornaments and similar goods. In the third year: "Common households may not hunt deer fetuses to make hats. Nor may dwellings that are not inns or street-facing towers build four-bay decorative bracket sets to eight faces; those without official rank may not erect gate pavilions; and those that are not palaces or temples may not paint their buildings, lacquer pillars and windows in red or dark lacquer, or carve column bases. No utensil may be red-lacquered inside and out or gold-lacquered, nor lined underneath in red. Households below third rank, imperial clansmen, and consort kin may not use gold-rimmed vessels, and silver must not be gilded. Tortoiseshell food and drink vessels were reserved for the palace. Pure gold vessels might be used if the emperor had bestowed them. Titled ladies might wear gold in their hair and give children gold clasps, hairpins, armlets, and earrings; but not in the shapes of ivory fish, flying fish, clever flying forms, or dragons. Households without titled ladies might not trim hair ornaments or clothing with pearls, nor wear neck pearls, tassels, ear pendants, head-bands, forehead cloths, and the like. Curtains, wall hangings, valances, pillar wraps, friezes, neck cloths, coverlets, and bed skirts might not be made of brocade embroidered throughout. Imperial kinsmen and consort kin might not cover tea trays and food boxes with scarlet cloth. Carriages of the wealthy elite might not be red-lacquered or painted in five colors, though dark lacquer with five-color accents was allowed. Commoners might not ride sedan chairs or parade with silver maces and water jars to clear the road."

慶曆八年，詔禁士庶效契丹服及乘騎鞍轡、婦人衣銅綠兔褐之類。皇祐元年，詔婦人冠高毋得逾四寸，廣毋得逾尺，梳長毋得逾四寸，仍禁以角為之。先是，宮中尚白角冠梳，人爭仿之，至謂之內樣。冠名曰垂肩等肩，至有長三尺者；梳長亦逾尺。議者以為服妖，遂禁止之。嘉祐七年，初，皇親與內臣所衣紫，皆再入為黝色。後士庶浸相效，言者以為奇邪之服，於是禁天下衣黑紫服者。

In 1048, gentry and commoners were forbidden to imitate Khitan dress and saddlery, and women were forbidden copper-green rabbit-fur coats and the like. In 1049, women's crowns were capped at four cun in height and one chi in width, combs at four cun in length, and horn was forbidden. Earlier the palace had favored white horn crowns and combs, and people rushed to copy them until they called the fashion "inner-court style." Crowns called "draping-shoulder" and "level-shoulder" grew as long as three chi; and combs too grew longer than a foot. Critics called it a dress of ill omen, and it was banned. In 1062, imperial kinsmen and inner attendants had their purple garments dyed a second time to a dark hue. Later gentry and commoners imitated them in turn; memorialists called it outlandish dress, and black-purple clothing was banned empire-wide.

神宗熙寧九年，禁朝服紫色近黑者；民庶止令乘犢車，聽以黑飾，間五彩為飾，不許嗬引及前列儀物。哲宗紹聖二年，侍御史翟思言：「京城士人與豪右大姓，出入率以轎自載，四人舁之，甚者飾以棕蓋，徹去簾蔽，翼其左右，旁午於通衢，甚為僭擬，乞行止絕。」從之。

In 1076, Emperor Shenzong forbade court dress in purple so dark it was nearly black; commoners were limited to ox-carts with black trim and touches of five-color ornament, but not shouting escorts or front ceremonial display. In 1095, Censor Zhai Si said: "Scholars and great families in the capital routinely travel in enclosed chairs borne by four men; some even add palm-leaf canopies, strip away the curtains, and flank themselves on both sides, crisscrossing the main roads in brazen imitation of rank. I ask that this be stopped." The court approved.

七年，臣僚上言：「輦轂之下，奔競侈靡，有未革者。居室服用以壯麗相誇，珠璣金玉以奇巧相勝，不獨貴近，比比紛紛，日益滋甚。臣嘗考之，申令法禁雖具，其罰尚輕，有司玩習，以至於此。如民庶之家不得乘轎，今京城內暖轎，非命官至富民、娼優、下賤，遂以為常。竊見近日有赴內禁乘以至皇城門者，奉祀乘至宮廟者，坦然無所畏避。臣妄以為僭禮犯分，禁亦不可以緩。」於是詔，非品官不得乘暖轎。先是，權發遣提舉淮南東路學事丁瓘言：「衣服之制，尤不可緩。今閭閻之卑，倡優之賤，男子服帶犀玉，婦人塗飾金珠，尚多僭侈，未合古制。臣恐禮官所議，止正大典，未遑及此。伏願明詔有司，嚴立法度，酌古便今，以義起禮。俾閭閻之卑，不得與尊者同榮；倡優之賤，不得與貴者並麗。此法一正，名分自明，革澆偷以歸忠厚，豈曰小補之哉。」是歲，又詔敢為契丹服若氈笠、釣墩之類者，以違御筆論。釣墩，今亦謂之襪袴，婦人之服也。

Seven years later officials memorialized: "Beneath the imperial chariot-axle, rivalry in luxury still has unreformed aspects. Homes and dress are judged by splendor, pearls and gold by novelty—not only the high and near, but everywhere, and growing worse by the day. I have looked into it: though the laws and bans are on the books, the penalties are still light and officials treat them casually, which is how we have come to this. Common households, for instance, may not ride enclosed chairs, yet in the capital heated enclosed chairs are now routine for everyone from titled ladies to the wealthy, courtesans, and the lowborn. Lately I have even seen people ride them to the inner palace gates for audiences and to palace temples for sacrifices, openly and without fear. I take this to be usurpation of ritual and violation of rank, and the ban cannot be relaxed." An edict followed: only ranked officials might ride heated enclosed chairs. Earlier Ding Jin, acting education intendant for Huainan East Circuit, had said: "Dress regulations above all cannot be neglected. Today in the lowest lanes and among entertainers, men belt themselves with rhinoceros horn and jade and women paint themselves in gold and pearls—far too much extravagance, and out of keeping with ancient rule. I fear the ritual officials will fix only the great statutes and never reach this. I humbly ask for a clear edict to the responsible offices to set strict law, weighing antiquity against present need and founding ritual in righteousness. Let the lowest lanes not share in the glory of the honored; nor entertainers share splendor with the exalted. Once this law is set right, names and ranks will clarify themselves, indulgence will give way to steadfastness, and the gain will be no small one." That year another edict declared that anyone daring to wear Khitan dress such as felt caps or diaodun would be punished for defying the emperor's own brush. Diaodun, now also called sock-trousers, is women's dress.

中興，士大夫之服，大抵因東都之舊，而其後稍變焉。一曰深衣，二曰紫衫，三曰涼衫，四曰帽衫，五曰襴衫。淳熙中，朱熹又定祭祀、冠婚之服，特頒行之。凡士大夫家祭祀、冠婚，則具盛服。有官者襆頭、帶、靴、笏，進士則襆頭、襴衫、帶，處士則襆頭、皂衫、帶，無官者通用帽子、衫、帶；又不能具，則或深衣，或涼衫。有官者亦通用帽子以下，但不為盛服。婦人則假髻、大衣、長裙。女子在室者冠子、背子。眾妾則假紒、背子。

After the restoration, the dress of scholar-officials largely followed Eastern Capital custom, then shifted gradually. There were five kinds: deep robes, purple jackets, cool jackets, cap jackets, and barred jackets. During the Chunxi era Zhu Xi set dress for sacrifice and for capping and wedding rites, and it was specially promulgated. For sacrifice, capping, or marriage, scholar-official families prepared full ceremonial dress. Officeholders wore futou, belt, boots, and tablet; jinshi wore futou, barred jacket, and belt; retired scholars wore futou, black jacket, and belt; men without office generally wore hat, jacket, and belt; if they could not manage the full set, they might wear deep robes or cool jackets instead. Officeholders might also wear hat and the like, but that did not count as full ceremonial dress. Women wore false topknots, great coats, and long skirts. Unmarried girls wore coronets and over-jackets. Concubines wore false braided coils and over-jackets.

冠禮，三加冠服，初加，緇布冠、深衣、大帶、納履；再加，帽子、皂衫、革帶、係鞋；三加，襆頭、公服、革帶、納靴。其品官嫡庶子初加，折上巾、公服；再加，二梁冠、朝服；三加，平冕服，若以巾帽、折上巾為三加者，聽之。深衣用白細布，度用指尺，衣全四幅，其長過脅，下屬於裳。裳交解十二幅，上屬於衣，其長及踝。圓袂方領，曲裾黑緣。大帶、緇冠、幅巾、黑履。士大夫家冠昏、祭祀、宴居、交際服之。

In the capping rite there were three investitures: first, black cloth cap, deep robes, great belt, and slip-on shoes; second, hat, black jacket, leather belt, and laced shoes; third, futou, public dress, leather belt, and fastened boots. For the sons of ranked officials, legitimate and secondary alike, the first investiture was folded-up cap and public dress; second, two-ridge cap and court dress; third, plain coronet dress; one might instead use cap-and-hat or folded-up cap for the third investiture if desired. Deep robes were made of fine white cloth, measured with finger-cubits; the upper garment had four full panels, long enough to pass the ribs, and was joined below to the skirt. The skirt had twelve cross-cut panels, attached above to the garment, and fell to the ankle. They had round sleeves and a square collar, with a curved hem bordered in black. Accessories were the great belt, black cap, cloth headwrap, and black shoes. Scholar-official families wore them for capping and marriage, sacrifice, everyday leisure, and social occasions.

紫衫。本軍校服。中興，士大夫服之，以便戎事。紹興九年，詔公卿、長吏服用冠帶，然迄不行。二十六年，再申嚴禁，毋得以戎服臨民，自是紫衫遂廢。士大夫皆服涼衫，以為便服矣。

Purple jackets. Originally this was dress of the army schools. After the restoration scholar-officials adopted them for convenience in military affairs. In Shaoxing 9 an edict required grandees and chief officials to wear caps and belts, but the order never took effect. In year 26 the ban was enforced again: officials might not receive the people in military dress, and purple jackets fell out of use. Scholar-officials all switched to cool jackets as everyday wear.

涼衫。其制如紫衫，亦曰白衫。乾道初，禮部侍郎王嚴奏：「竊見近日士大夫皆服涼衫，甚非美觀，而以交際、居官、臨民，純素可憎，有似凶服。陛下方奉兩宮，所宜革之。且紫衫之設以從戎，故為之禁，而人情趨簡便，靡而至此。文武並用。本不偏廢，朝章之外，宜有便衣，仍存紫衫，未害大體。」於是禁服白衫，除乘馬道塗許服外，餘不得服。若便服，許用紫衫。自後，涼衫祗用為凶服矣。

Cool jackets. Cut like purple jackets, they were also known as white jackets. Early in Qiandao, Wang Yan, Vice Minister of Rites, wrote: "Lately every scholar-official seems to wear cool jackets. They are unseemly, yet people wear them when mingling, holding office, or dealing with the public—plain white that offends the eye and looks like mourning. Your Majesty is still caring for the retired sovereigns of the two palaces; such dress ought to be abolished. Purple jackets were meant for military service, which is why they were restricted; but people prefer what is easy, and indulgence has brought us here. Civil and military officials alike wore them. The aim was not to abolish them entirely: beyond court regalia one needs informal dress, and keeping purple jackets would not undermine proper order." White jackets were then banned except when riding on public roads; otherwise they could not be worn. For informal wear, purple jackets were allowed. After that, cool jackets served only as mourning garments.

帽衫。帽以烏紗、衫以皂羅為之，角帶，係鞋。東都時，士大夫交際常服之。南渡後，一變為紫衫，再變為涼衫，自是服帽衫少矣。惟士大夫家冠昏、祭祀猶服焉。若國子生，常服之。

Cap jackets. The cap was black gauze and the jacket black silk gauze, with horn belt and laced shoes. In the Eastern Capital era scholar-officials wore them regularly in daily social life. After the court moved south they gave way first to purple jackets, then to cool jackets, and cap jackets became rare. Only for capping, marriage, and sacrifice in scholar-official households did people still wear them. Students of the Imperial University wore them as daily dress.

襴衫。以白細布為之，圓領大袖，下施橫襴為裳，腰間有辟積。進士及國子生、州縣生服之。

Barred jackets. They were fine white cloth, round-collared and large-sleeved, with horizontal barred panels below like a skirt and pleats at the waist. Jinshi candidates, Imperial University students, and local academy students wore them.

紹興五年，高宗謂輔臣曰：「金翠為婦人服飾，不惟靡貨害物，而侈靡之習，實關風化。已戒中外，及下令不許入宮門，今無一人犯者。尚恐士民之家未能盡革，宜申嚴禁，仍定銷金及采捕金翠罪賞格。」淳熙二年，孝宗宣示中宮禕衣曰：「珠玉就用禁中舊物，所費不及五萬，革弊當自宮禁始。」因問風俗，龔茂良奏：「由貴近之家，放效宮禁，以致流傳民間。粥簪珥者，必言內樣。彼若知上崇尚淳樸，必觀感而化矣。臣又聞中宮服浣濯之衣，數年不易。請宣示中外，仍敕有司嚴戢奢僭。」寧宗嘉泰初，以風俗侈靡，詔官民營建室屋，一遵制度，務從簡樸。又以宮中金翠，燔之通衢，貴近之家，犯者必罰。

In Shaoxing 5 Gaozong told his chief ministers: "Women's ornaments of gold and kingfisher feather waste wealth, harm living things, and—more importantly—extravagant habits bear directly on public morals. I have warned the court and the provinces and barred such dress from the palace gates; not one person has violated the order since. I fear gentry and common households may not have reformed fully; tighten the prohibition and fix penalties and rewards for gilding and for hunting kingfisher or mining its materials." In Chunxi 2 Xiaozong showed the empress's sacrificial robe and said: "Use pearls and jade already in the palace—under fifty thousand in cost. Reform must begin inside the palace itself." He then asked about popular customs. Gong Maoliang replied: "Eminent families near the throne copy palace styles, and the fashion spreads to the people. Vendors of hairpins and earrings always advertise 'as worn inside.' If they knew the throne valued simplicity, they would be moved to reform by the example alone. I have also heard that consorts in the palace wear washed garments for years without replacing them. Proclaim this within the court and without, and order officials to suppress extravagance and presumptuous display." Early in Jiatai, finding customs extravagant, Ningzong ordered officials and commoners alike to build houses strictly by regulation and keep them plain. Gold and kingfisher ornaments from the palace were burned in the public streets, and eminent families who violated the rules were punished without exception.

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