1
}}秦滅禮學,事多違古。 漢初崇簡,不存改作,車服之儀,多因秦舊。 至明帝始乃修復先典,司馬彪輿服志詳之矣。 魏代唯作指南車,其餘雖小有改易,不足相變。 晉立服制令,辨定眾儀,徐廣車服注,略明事目,並行於今者也。 故復敍列,以通數代典事。
After Qin suppressed the study of ritual, government practice often broke with ancient precedent. Early Han prized austerity and undertook no sweeping reforms, so carriage and dress protocol largely preserved Qin custom. Not until Emperor Ming did the court begin restoring the old canon, which Sima Biao's Treatise on Carriages and Dress describes at length. Under Wei the court chiefly rebuilt the south-pointing carriage; other rules shifted only slightly and did not amount to a real break with tradition. Jin codified dress regulations, sorted out the full range of ceremony, and Xu Guang's notes on carriages and dress sketched the main categories—rules that still govern practice today. The present account therefore rehearses them in sequence so that the ceremonial usage of successive dynasties may be understood together.
2
上古聖人見轉蓬,始為輪,輪行可載,因為輿。 任重致遠,流運無極。 後代聖人觀北斗魁方杓曲攜龍角,為帝車,曲其輈以便駕。 系本云:「奚仲始作車。」 案庖羲畫八卦而為大輿,服牛乘馬,以利天下。 奚仲乃夏之車正,安得始造乎。 系本之言非也。 「車服以庸」,著在唐典。 夏建旌旗,以表貴賤。 周有六職,百工居其一焉。 一器而羣工致其巧,車最居多。 明堂位曰:「鸞車,有虞氏之路也。 大路,殷路也。 乘路,周路也。」 殷有山車之瑞,謂桑根車,殷人制為大路。 禮緯曰:「山車垂句。」 句,曲也。 言不揉治而自曲也。 周之五路,則有玉、金、象、革、木。 五者之飾,備於考工記。 輿方法地,蓋圓象天,輻以象日月,二十八弓以象列宿。 玉、金、象者,飾車諸末,因為名也。 革者漆革,木者漆木也。 玉路,建大常以祀; 金路,建大旂以賓; 象路,建大赤以朝; 革路,建大白以戎; 木路,建大麾以田。 黑色,夏所尚也。
Ancient sages, watching thistle-down spin in the wind, fashioned wheels; once wheels could roll and bear weight, the carriage followed. It could carry heavy loads over long distances, extending human reach without end. Later sages took the square handle, curved ladle, and Dragon's Horn of the Northern Dipper as the model for the Imperial Carriage and bent the shafts for easier driving. The Genealogical Annals states, "Xi Zhong was the first to make the carriage." Yet Fuxi had already drawn the Eight Trigrams and devised the great carriage, harnessing oxen and riding horses for the good of the realm. Xi Zhong was merely Xia's Director of Carriages; he could hardly have been the original inventor. That passage in the Genealogical Annals is wrong. The Tang canon already records that carriages and dress should match merit and rank. Xia introduced banners and flags to distinguish rank. Zhou organized six great offices, one of which oversaw the hundred crafts. Many artisans lavished skill on a single type of work, and carriages required more of it than anything else. The Record of the Bright Hall says, "The luan carriage was the state carriage of the house of Yu. The great carriage was that of Yin. The riding carriage was that of Zhou." Yin received the auspicious "mountain carriage," the mulberry-root carriage, which they made into the great state carriage. The Ritual Apocrypha says, "The mountain carriage has timbers that hang in curves." Ju means bent. It means the wood curved naturally without being steamed and bent by craftsmen. Zhou's five ceremonial routes were named for jade, gold, ivory, leather, and wood. Their ornamentation is fully described in the Records of Craftsmen. The carriage body was square like the earth, the canopy round like heaven, the spokes like sun and moon, and the twenty-eight rim-segments like the lunar lodges. The jade, gold, and ivory routes were named for the precious materials that ornamented the carriage's fittings. The leather route used lacquered leather, the wood route lacquered wood. The jade route carried the great constant banner for sacrifice; the gold route the great banner to receive guests; the ivory route the great crimson for court audience; the leather route the great white for military affairs; the wood route the great standard for the hunt. Black was the color Xia favored.
3
秦閱三代之車,獨取殷制。 古曰桑根車,秦曰金根車也。 漢氏因秦之舊,亦為乘輿,所謂乘殷之路者也。 禮論輿駕議曰:「周則玉輅最尊,漢之金根,亦周之玉路也。」 漢制,乘輿金根車,輪皆朱斑,重轂兩轄,飛軨。 轂外復有轂,施轄,其外復設轄,施銅貫其中。 東京賦曰:「重輪貳轄,疏轂飛軨。」 飛軨以赤油為之,廣八寸,長三尺注地,繫兩軸頭,謂之飛軨也。 以金薄繆龍,為輿倚較。 較在箱上。 𣝛文畫蕃。 蕃,箱也。 文虎伏軾,龍首銜軛,鸞雀立衡,𣝛文畫轅,翠羽蓋黃裏,所謂黃屋也。 金華施橑末,建大常十二旒,畫日月升龍,駕六黑馬,施十二鸞,金為叉髦,插以翟尾。 又加氂牛尾,大如斗,置左騑馬軛上,所謂左纛輿也。 路如周玉路之制。 應劭漢官鹵簿圖,乘輿大駕,則御鳳皇車,以金根為副。 又五色安車、五色立車各五乘。 建龍旂,駕四馬,施八鸞,餘如金根之制,猶周金路也。 其車各如方色,所謂五時副車,俗謂為「五帝車」也。 江左則闕矣。 白馬者,朱其鬣,安車者,坐乘。 又有建華蓋九重。 甘泉鹵簿者,道車五乘,游車九乘,在乘輿車前。 又有象車,最在前,試橋道。 晉江左駕猶有之。 凡婦人車皆坐乘,故周禮王后有安車而王無也。 漢制乘輿乃有之。
When Qin surveyed the carriages of the Three Dynasties, it adopted Yin practice alone. Antiquity knew it as the mulberry-root carriage; Qin renamed it the golden-root carriage. Han followed Qin and made it the imperial carriage, the so-called "riding of Yin's route." The Discussion of Rites on Imperial Carriages says, "Zhou's jade chariot ranked highest; Han's golden-root carriage corresponds to Zhou's jade route." Han prescribed that the imperial golden-root carriage have vermilion-spotted wheels, double hubs with paired linchpins, and flying nave-strips. An outer hub ringed the inner hub, each fitted with linchpins and bound together with copper pins. The Rhapsody on the Eastern Capital reads, "Double wheels, paired linchpins, open hubs and flying nave-strips." The flying nave-strips were of red lacquer, eight inches wide and three feet long to the ground, tied to both axle ends—hence the name. Gold foil in coiling dragon patterns formed the carriage's leaning rails. The rails stood above the carriage box. The sideboards bore painted ornamental designs. "Fan" means the carriage box. Tigers in relief crouched on the front rail, a dragon head gripped the yoke, luan birds and sparrows stood on the crossbar, the shafts were painted on the sideboards, and the kingfisher-feather canopy had a yellow lining—the famed "yellow house." Gold ornament crowned the canopy arms; a great constant banner of twelve tassels painted with sun, moon, and ascending dragon was raised; six black horses drew the carriage; twelve luan finials, gold forked plumes, and pheasant tail feathers completed the equipage. A yak-tail standard the size of a bushel was fixed to the left outrigger horse's yoke—the so-called left-banner carriage. The equipage followed the pattern of Zhou's jade route. Ying Shao's diagram of the Han guard of honor shows that on a full imperial progress the phoenix carriage led and the golden-root carriage served as secondary. There were also five each of the five-colored seated carriages and standing carriages. They bore dragon banners, were drawn by four horses, carried eight luan finials, and otherwise matched the golden-root pattern—equivalent to Zhou's gold route. Each carriage matched its seasonal color—the five seasonal secondary carriages popularly known as the "Five Emperors' carriages." South of the Yangzi the practice died out. White horses had vermilion manes; seated carriages were ridden sitting down. Some carriages bore canopies of nine tiers. The Sweet Springs guard of honor placed five path carriages and nine touring carriages ahead of the imperial carriage. An elephant carriage went first of all to test bridges and roadbeds. Jin courts south of the Yangzi still kept this practice. Women's carriages were always ridden seated, which is why the Rites of Zhou give the queen a seated carriage but not the king. Han alone extended the seated carriage to the emperor.
4
天子所御駕六,其餘副車皆駕四。 案書稱朽索御六馬。 逸禮王度記曰:「天子駕六,諸侯駕五,卿駕四,大夫三,士二,庶人一。」 楚平王駕白馬。 梁惠王以安車駕三送淳于髠,大夫之儀。 周禮,四馬為乘。 毛詩,「天子至大夫同駕四,士駕二」。 袁盎諫漢文馳六飛。 魏時天子亦駕六。 晉先蠶儀,皇后安車駕六,以兩轅安車駕五為副。 江左以來,相承無六,駕四而已。
The Son of Heaven himself drove six horses; all secondary carriages used four. The Documents mention driving six horses with a rotten rope. The Lost Rites, Record of Royal Measures, states, "The Son of Heaven drives six horses, feudal lords five, ministers four, grandees three, officers two, and commoners one." King Ping of Chu drove white horses. King Hui of Liang sent off Chunyu Kun in a seated carriage with three horses, the proper honor for a grand master. The Rites of Zhou define four horses as one team. The Mao Odes say, "From the Son of Heaven to grandees all drive four; officers drive two." Yuan Ang admonished Emperor Wen for racing six flying steeds. Wei emperors likewise drove six horses. Jin's early sericulture protocol had the empress's seated carriage drawn by six horses, with a two-shaft seated carriage of five as secondary. Since the move south of the Yangzi, court usage has dispensed with six-horse teams and driven four only.
5
宋孝武大明三年,使尚書左丞荀萬秋造五路。 禮圖,玉路,建赤旂,無蓋,改造依擬金根,而赤漆𣝛畫,玉飾諸末,建青旂,十有二旒,駕玄馬四,施羽葆蓋,以祀。 即以金根為金路,建大青旂,十有二旒,駕玄馬四,羽葆蓋,以賓。 象、革、木路,周官、輿服志、禮圖並不載其形段,並依擬玉路,漆𣝛畫,羽葆蓋,象飾諸末,建立赤旂,十有二旒,以視朝。 革路,建赤旂,十有二旒,以即戎。 木路,建赤麾,以田。 象、革駕玄,木駕赤,四馬。 舊有大事,法駕出,五路各有所主,不俱出也。 大明中,始制五路俱出。 親耕籍田,乘三蓋車,一名芝車,又名耕根車,置耒耜於軾上。
In the third year of Daming, Emperor Xiaowu of Song ordered Left Assistant Director Xun Wanqiu to build the five ceremonial routes. The Ritual Diagrams describe the jade route with a crimson banner and no canopy, rebuilt on the golden-root pattern with crimson lacquer and painted sideboards, jade fittings, an azure twelve-tassel banner, four black horses, and a feathered canopy for sacrifice. The golden-root carriage became the gold route, with a great azure twelve-tassel banner, four black horses, and a feathered canopy for receiving guests. The ivory route (for court audience), along with the leather and wood routes, is not described in detail in the Offices of Zhou, the Treatise on Carriages and Dress, or the Ritual Diagrams; all were modeled on the jade route with lacquered painted sideboards, feathered canopy, ivory fittings, and a crimson twelve-tassel banner. The leather route bore a crimson twelve-tassel banner for military campaigns. The wood route bore a crimson standard for the hunt. The ivory and leather routes used black horses, the wood route red horses—four in each team. Formerly on major occasions when the statutory escort departed, each of the five routes had its assigned role and they did not all appear together. During Daming the court first required all five routes to go out together. For the personal plowing of the sacred field the emperor rode the triple-canopy carriage, also called the mushroom carriage or plowing-root carriage, with plow and spade set on the front rail.
6
戎車立乘,夏曰鉤車,殷曰寅車,周曰元戎。 建牙麾,邪注之,載金鼓羽幢,置甲弩於軾上。
The war chariot was ridden standing: Xia called it the hook carriage, Yin the yin carriage, Zhou the primal war chariot. It carried a battle standard set at an angle, gold drums and feather banners, with armor and crossbows on the front rail.
7
獵車,輞幰,輪畫繆龍繞之。 一名蹋猪車。 魏文帝改曰蹋虎車。
The hunting carriage had enclosed sides and wheels painted with coiling dragons. It was also called the trampling-pig carriage. Emperor Wen of Wei renamed it the trampling-tiger carriage.
8
指南車,其始周公所作,以送荒外遠使。 地域平漫,迷於東西,造立此車,使常知南北。 鬼谷子云:「鄭人取玉,必載司南,為其不惑也。」 至于秦、漢,其制無聞。 後漢張衡始復創造。 漢末喪亂,其器不存。 魏高堂隆、秦朗,皆博聞之士,爭論於朝,云無指南車,記者虛說。 明帝青龍中,令博士馬鈞更造之而車成。 晉亂復亡。 石虎使解飛,姚興使令狐生又造焉。 安帝義熙十三年,宋武帝平長安,始得此車。 其制如鼓車,設木人於車上,舉手指南。 車雖回轉,所指不移。 大駕鹵簿,最先啟行。 此車戎狄所制,機數不精,雖曰指南,多不審正。 回曲步驟,猶須人功正之。 范陽人祖沖之,有巧思,常謂宜更構造。 宋順帝昇明末,齊王為相,命造之焉。 車成,使撫軍丹陽尹王僧虔、御史中丞劉休試之。 其制甚精,百屈千回,未常移變。 晉代又有指南舟。 索虜拓跋燾使工人郭善明造指南車,彌年不就。 扶風人馬岳又造,垂成,善明酖殺之。
The south-pointing carriage was first built by the Duke of Zhou to guide envoys returning from distant lands. On flat open ground travelers lose their bearings; this carriage was devised so they could always tell south from north. Guiguzi says, "When men of Zheng went to gather jade they always carried the south-pointer so they would not lose their way." By Qin and Han, however, its design was no longer known. Zhang Heng of Later Han was the first to rebuild it. At the end of Han the device was lost in the chaos of civil war. Wei scholars Gao Tanglong and Qin Lang, both widely read, argued at court that no such carriage had ever existed and that historians had invented it. In Emperor Ming's Qinglong era he ordered Academician Ma Jun to rebuild it, and the carriage was completed. It was lost again in the chaos of Jin. Shi Hu had Xie Fei rebuild it, and Yao Xing had Linghu Sheng do so again. In the thirteenth year of Yixi, after Emperor Wu of Song captured Chang'an, the court recovered this carriage for the first time. It was built like the drum carriage, with a wooden figure mounted on top that raised its arm to point south. No matter how the carriage turned, the figure still pointed the same way. On a full imperial progress it led the statutory guard of honor. That carriage had been built by northern peoples; its gearing was crude, and despite the name "south-pointing," it was often inaccurate. On twisting roads it still had to be adjusted by hand. Zu Chongzhi of Fanyang was a clever craftsman who often argued it should be rebuilt. In the late Shengming years of Emperor Shun of Song, while the Prince of Qi served as chief minister, he ordered a new one built. When it was finished, Wang Sengqian (Defender-general and governor of Danyang) and Liu Xiu (supervising censor) were sent to test it. The mechanism was exquisitely precise—the pointer never wavered through countless turns. Jin also had a south-pointing boat. The Northern Wei ruler Tuoba Tao assigned the craftsman Guo Shanming to build a south-pointing carriage, but a full year passed without success. Ma Yue of Fufeng built another, but just before it was finished Guo Shanming poisoned him.
9
記里車,未詳所由來,亦高祖定三秦所獲。 制如指南,其上有鼓,車行一里,木人輒擊一槌。 大駕鹵簿,以次指南。
The li-recording carriage is of obscure origin; like the south-pointer, it was taken when the High Ancestor conquered the Three Qins. Built like the south-pointing carriage, it carried a drum on top; for every li traveled a wooden figure struck one beat. On a full imperial progress it followed right behind the south-pointing carriage.
10
輦車,周禮王后五路之卑者也。 后宮中從容所乘,非王車也。 漢制乘輿御之,或使人輓,或駕果下馬。 漢成帝欲與班婕妤同輦是也。 後漢陰就外戚驕貴,亦輦。 井丹譏之曰:「昔桀乘人車,豈此邪!」 然則輦夏后氏末代所造也。 井丹譏陰就乘人,而不云僭上,豈貴臣亦得乘之乎? 未知何代去其輪。 傅玄子曰:「夏曰余車,殷曰胡奴,周曰輜車。」 輜車,即輦也。 魏、晉御小出,常乘馬,亦多乘輿車。 輿車,今之小輿。
The palanquin carriage was the humblest of the queen's five ritual carriages in the Rites of Zhou. Queens used it for leisurely travel inside the palace; it was not a royal state carriage. Han emperors also used it, sometimes pulled by attendants, sometimes drawn by small horses. That was the carriage Emperor Cheng of Han wanted to share with Lady Ban. In Later Han the empress's relative Yin Jiu, swollen with rank, rode a palanquin too. Jing Dan mocked him: "Jie of old rode in a carriage drawn by men—is this not the same thing?" The palanquin, then, dates from the last rulers of Xia. Jing Dan mocked Yin for riding a man-drawn cart yet never accused him of lèse-majesté—did that mean great ministers were permitted to use it? No one knows when its wheels were removed. Fu Xuan wrote: "Xia called it the yu carriage, Yin the hulu carriage, Zhou the transport carriage." The transport carriage was the palanquin. Wei and Jin emperors usually rode horses on short outings but often used the lighter imperial carriage as well. The yu carriage corresponds to today's small palanquin.
11
犢車,軿車之流也。 漢諸侯貧者乃乘之,其後轉見貴。 孫權云「車中八牛」,即犢車也。 江左御出,又載儲偫之物。 漢代賤軺車而貴輜軿,魏、晉賤輜軿而貴軺車。 又有追鋒車,去小平蓋,加通幔,如軺車,而駕馬。 又以雲母飾犢車,謂之雲母車,臣下不得乘,時以賜王公。 晉氏又有四望車,今制亦存。 又漢制,唯賈人不得乘馬車,其餘皆乘之矣。 除吏赤蓋杠,餘則青蓋杠云。
The calf carriage was a variety of enclosed carriage. In Han only impoverished lords used it; later it grew fashionable. Sun Quan's "eight oxen in the carriage" referred to the calf carriage. Eastern Jin emperors also loaded it with provisions on outings. Han prized enclosed transport carriages over light chariots; Wei and Jin reversed that preference. There was also the pursuing-vanguard carriage—like a light chariot with the small canopy removed and a full curtain added, but horse-drawn. Calf carriages inlaid with mica were called mica carriages; officials could not use them and they were reserved as gifts for princes and dukes. Jin also had the four-view carriage, which survives in present regulations. Under Han law only merchants were barred from horse carriages; everyone else could ride them. Retired officials used crimson canopy poles; others used azure ones.
12
周禮王后亦有五路,重翟、厭翟、安車、翟車、輦車,凡五也。 漢制,太皇太后、皇太后、皇后法駕乘重翟羽葢金根車,駕青交絡,青帷裳,雲𣝛畫轅,黃金塗五末,葢爪施金華,駕三馬,左右騑。 其非法駕則紫罽軿車。 按字林,軿車有衣蔽,無後轅。 其有後轅者謂之輜。 應劭漢官,明帝永平七年,光烈陰皇后葬,魂車,鸞路青羽葢,駕駟馬,龍旂九旒,前有方相。 鳳皇車,大將軍妻參乘,太僕妻、御女騎夾轂,此前漢舊制也。
The Rites of Zhou likewise prescribe five carriages for the queen: double-pheasant, suppressed-pheasant, comfortable, pheasant, and palanquin—five in all. Han rules required the grand empress dowager, empress dowager, and empress on statutory escort to ride the double-pheasant golden-root carriage with feather canopy, azure crossed reins and curtains, cloud-motif painted sideboards on the shafts, gilded fittings, gold blossoms on the canopy claws, three horses with outriders. On informal occasions they used purple felt enclosed carriages. The Forest of Characters defines the enclosed carriage as screened by drapery and lacking a rear shaft. Carriages with a rear shaft were called transport carriages. Ying Shao's Offices of Han records that in Emperor Ming's seventh Yongping year, at Empress Yin's burial, the soul carriage—the spirit path carriage with azure feather canopy, four horses, a nine-tassel dragon banner, and an exorcist mask leading the way. The phoenix carriage followed, with the general's wife as companion rider and the grand marshal's wife and palace women riding beside the hub—an old Former Han custom.
13
晉先蠶儀注,皇后乘油畫雲母安車,駕六騩馬。 騩,淺黑色也。 油畫兩轅安車,駕五騩馬為副。 公主油畫安車,駕三。 三夫人青交絡安車,駕三。 皆以紫絳罽軿車,駕三為副。 九嬪世婦軿車,駕二。 宮人輜車,駕一。 王妃、公侯特進夫人、封君皁交絡安車,駕三。
Jin rites for the First Silkworm had the empress ride an oil-painted mica comfortable carriage with six piebald horses. "Gui" denotes a pale black coat. A secondary oil-painted two-shaft comfortable carriage used five piebald horses. Princesses used oil-painted comfortable carriages with three horses. The three chief consorts rode azure-trimmed comfortable carriages with three horses. Each also had a purple felt enclosed carriage with three horses as escort. Nine consorts and palace ladies used enclosed carriages drawn by two horses. Ordinary palace women rode single-horse transport carriages. Imperial princesses by marriage, wives of nobles and specially advanced officials, and ennobled ladies rode black-trimmed comfortable carriages with three horses.
14
漢制,貴人、公主、王妃、封君油軿皆駕二,右騑而已。
Han rules gave favored consorts, princesses, princesses-by-marriage, and ennobled ladies oil-painted enclosed carriages with two horses and only a right outrider.
15
漢制,太子、皇子皆安車,朱斑輪,倚虎較,伏鹿軾,黑𣝛文畫蕃,青蓋,金華施橑末,黑𣝛文畫轅,黃金塗五末。 皇子為王,錫以此乘,故曰王青蓋車。 皆左右騑駕,五旂,旂九旒,畫降龍。 皇孫乘綠蓋車,亦駕三。 魏、晉之制,太子及諸王皆駕四。
Han rules gave the crown prince and imperial sons comfortable carriages with vermilion-spotted wheels, tiger panels on the sideboards, deer figures on the front rail, black painted ornamental sideboards and body panels, azure canopy, gilded canopy tips, painted shafts, and gold fittings. When a prince was enfeoffed as king he received this equipage, hence the "king's azure-canopy carriage." They used outriders on both sides, five banners, and nine-tassel banners painted with descending dragons. Imperial grandsons rode green-canopy carriages with three horses. Under Wei and Jin rules the crown prince and all princes used four-horse teams.
16
晉元帝太興三年,太子釋奠。 詔曰:「未有高車,可乘安車。」 高車,即立乘車也。 公及列侯安車,朱斑輪、倚鹿較、伏熊軾、黑蕃者謂之軒,皁繒蓋,駕二,右騑。 王公旂八旒,侯七旒,卿五旒,皆降龍。 公卿中二千石二千石郊陵法駕出,皆大車立乘,駕四。 後導從大車,駕二,右騑。 他出乘安車。 其去位致仕,皆賜安車四馬。 中二千石皆皁蓋、朱蕃,銅五末,駕二,右騑。 晉令,王公之世子攝命治國者,安車,駕三,旂七旒,其侯世子,五旒。
In Jin Emperor Yuan's third Taixing year the crown prince conducted the libation ceremony at the schools. An edict read, "When no raised carriage is available, use the comfortable carriage." The "raised carriage" was the standing carriage. Dukes and marquises rode comfortable "xuan" carriages with vermilion-spotted wheels, deer panels, bear figures on the front rail, and black body panels, black silk canopy, two horses, and a right outrider. Kings and dukes bore eight-tassel banners, marquises seven, ministers five—all with descending dragons. On statutory escort to suburban rites or imperial tombs, high ministers and two-thousand-dan officials rode large standing carriages with four horses. Following attendants used two-horse large carriages with a right outrider. On other occasions they used comfortable carriages. Retiring officials were all granted a four-horse comfortable carriage. Middle-ranked two-thousand-dan officials used black canopies, vermilion panels, bronze fittings, two horses, and a right outrider. Jin law gave regent heirs of kings and dukes comfortable carriages with three horses and seven-tassel banners; marquises' heirs had five tassels.
17
傅暢故事,三公安車,駕三。 特進駕二。 卿一。 漢制,公、列侯、中二千石、二千石夫人會廟及蠶,各乘其夫之安車,右騑,加皁交絡,帷裳皆皁。 非公會,則乘漆布輜軿,銅五末。 晉武帝太康四年,詔依漢故事,給九卿朝車駕及安車各一乘。 傅暢故事,尚書令詔車,黑耳後戶。 僕射但後戶無耳。 中書監令如僕射。
Fu Chang's precedents assigned the three chief ministers comfortable carriages with three horses. Specially advanced officials used two-horse teams. Ministers used one horse. Han rules required nobles' wives attending temple or silkworm rites to ride their husbands' comfortable carriages with a right outrider, black crossed reins, and black curtains. On private occasions they used lacquered cloth transport enclosed carriages with bronze fittings. In Jin Emperor Wu's fourth Taikang year an edict revived Han practice, granting each of the nine ministers a court carriage and a comfortable carriage. Fu Chang records that the director of the Masters of Writing used the edict carriage with black door ears at the rear. The supervisor had rear doors without those ears. Palace Secretariat directors and supervisors followed the same rule.
18
漢制,乘輿御大駕,公卿奉引,太僕御,大將軍參乘,備千乘萬騎。 屬車八十一乘。 古者諸侯貳車九乘,秦滅九國,兼其車服,故八十一乘也。 漢遵弗改。 漢都長安時,祠天於甘泉用之。 都洛陽,上原陵,又用之,大喪又用之。 法駕則河南尹、洛陽令奉引,奉車郎御,侍中參乘。 屬車三十六乘。 凡屬車皆皁蓋赤裏。 後漢祠天郊用法駕,祠宗廟用小駕。 小駕,減損副車也。 前驅有九斿雲罕,皮軒鸞旗,車皆大夫載之。 鸞旗者,編羽旄列繫幢傍也。 金鉦黃鉞,黃門鼓車,乘輿之後有屬車,尚書、御史載之。 最後一車懸豹尾。 豹尾以前,比於省中。 每出警蹕清道,建五旗。 太僕奉駕條上鹵簿,尚書郎侍御史令史皆執注以督整車騎,所謂護駕也。 春秋上陵,尤省於小駕。 直事尚書一人從,其餘令史以下皆從行,所謂先置也。 薛綜東京賦注以雲罕九斿為旌旗別名,亦不辨其形。 案魏命晉王建天子旌旗,置旄頭雲罕。 是知雲罕非旌旗也。 徐廣車服注以為九斿,斿車九乘。 雲罕疑是罼罕。 詩敍曰:「齊侯田獵罼弋,百姓苦之。」 罼罕本施遊獵,遂為行飾乎? 潘岳籍田賦先敍五路九旗,次言瓊鈒雲罕。 若罕為旗,則岳不應頻句於九旗之下。 又以其物匹鈒戟,宜是今罼網明矣。 此說為得之。 皮軒,以虎皮為軒也。 徐又引淮南子「軍正執豹皮以制正其眾。」 禮記「前有士師,則載虎皮」。 乘輿豹尾,亦其義類乎? 五旗者,五色各一旗,以木牛承其下。 徐又云:「木牛,蓋取其負重而安穩也。」 五旗纏竿,即禮記德車結旌不盡飾也,戎事乃散之。 又武車綏旌,垂舒之也。 史臣案:今結旌綏旌同,而德車武車之所不建。 又木牛之義,亦未灼然可曉。 又案周禮辨載法物,莫不詳究,然無相風、罼網、旄頭之屬,此非古制明矣。 何承天謂戰國並爭,師旅數出,懸烏之設,務察風祲,宜是秦矣。 晉武嘗問侍臣:「旄頭何義?」 彭推對曰:「秦國有奇怪,觸山截水,無不崩潰,唯畏旄頭,故虎士服之,則秦制也。」 張華曰:「有是言而事不經。 臣謂壯士之怒,髮踊衝冠,義取於此。」 摯虞決疑無所是非也。 徐爰曰:「彭、張之說,各言意義,無所承據。 案天文畢昴之中謂之天街,故車駕以罼罕前引,畢方昴圓,因其象。 星經,昴一名旄頭,故使執之者冠皮毛之冠也。」
Han protocol for the full great escort had the emperor ride in state while dukes and ministers led, the grand marshal drove, the general-in-chief sat as companion, and a thousand chariots and ten thousand horsemen stood ready. The retinue comprised eighty-one follow carriages. Ancient lords each kept nine spare carriages; Qin conquered nine kingdoms and absorbed their ceremonial equipage—hence eighty-one follow cars. Han preserved the number unchanged. When the capital was at Chang'an it was used for Heaven worship at Sweet Springs. After the move to Luoyang it served tomb visits at the Yuan imperial mausolea and state funerals. Statutory escort was led by the governors of Henan and Luoyang, driven by gentlemen of the imperial carriage office, with a palace attendant as companion. The retinue numbered thirty-six follow carriages. All follow carriages had black canopies lined in crimson. Later Han used statutory escort for suburban Heaven sacrifice and small escort for the ancestral temple. Small escort meant a reduced complement of follow cars. The vanguard included the nine-tassel cloud banner, hide-canopied carriage, and luan banner carriage, each driven by a grandee. The luan banner wove feathers and yak-tails in rows along the staff. Golden gongs and yellow axes led the yellow-gate drum carriage; behind the emperor rode follow cars carrying the masters of writing and censor. The rear-most carriage bore a leopard tail. Everything ahead of the leopard tail corresponded to the inner palace precinct. On every imperial outing the route was cleared and five banners raised. The grand marshal submitted the driving roster for the guard of honor; masters of writing, attending censors, and clerks carried registers to supervise the carriage-and-horse array—the "escort guard." Spring and autumn tomb visits used an escort even smaller than small escort. One duty master of writing attended; lower clerks went on foot ahead—the "advance guard." In his commentary on the Eastern Capital Rhapsody, Xue Zong treats the nine-tasseled yunhan as merely another name for regimental banners, without clarifying what it looked like. Records show that when Wei invested the Prince of Jin, it granted him imperial banners and flags, including maotou and yunhan. This proves that yunhan was not a banner or flag at all. Xu Guang, in his notes on carriages and dress, interpreted it as the nine tassels: nine you escort carriages. Yunhan is probably the same as bihan. The Preface to the Odes records: 'The Marquis of Qi hunted with biyi nets and bird-snares; the people were worn down by it.' Were bihan nets, originally used on the hunt, later turned into parade regalia? Pan Yue's Rhapsody on the Ploughing Ceremony first describes the five routes and nine banners, then mentions jade-inlaid halberds and the yunhan. If han were a flag, Pan Yue would not have returned to it again and again right under his account of the nine banners. Moreover, because it is grouped with jeweled halberds, it must be the hunting net known today as biyi—this much is clear. That reading is the correct one. The pixuan, or hide-canopied carriage, used tiger skin for its canopy. Xu also quotes the Huainanzi: 'The army rectifier carries leopard hide to keep the ranks in order.' The Record of Rites adds: 'If the Minister of Crime precedes the train, leopard hide is displayed on the carriage.' Does the leopard tail hung on the imperial carriage belong to the same symbolic family? The five banners were five flags, one for each color, each mounted on a wooden ox beneath the staff. Xu explains further: 'The wooden ox was meant to suggest load-bearing steadiness.' The wrapped staffs of the five banners correspond to the virtue carriage in the Record of Rites, whose pennants were tied but not fully decorated—only in war were they unfurled. On war chariots, the sui pennant was hung loose so that it streamed behind. The compiler notes that the tied pennant and the trailing sui pennant are now identical, though neither the virtue carriage nor the war carriage is supposed to carry them. The rationale for the wooden ox, too, remains far from clear. The Offices of Zhou catalogues every ritual object carried on chariots in meticulous detail, yet mentions nothing like the wind-vane, biyi net, or maotou—clear proof that these are later accretions. He Chengtian argued that when the warring states clashed and campaigns followed one upon another, the hanging crow was introduced to read the winds—an innovation he attributed to Qin. Emperor Wu of Jin once asked his court, 'What does maotou signify?' Peng Tui answered: 'Qin had a monster that shattered mountains and dams alike, yet feared maotou alone; tiger warriors therefore wore it. The practice is Qin's.' Zhang Hua objected: 'The story exists, but it will not bear scrutiny. I believe it evokes the warrior whose hair bristles and whose cap is knocked awry in fury.' Zhi Yu, adjudicating the dispute, would affirm neither explanation. Xu Ai remarked: 'Peng and Zhang each offer a gloss, but neither rests on any authority. Astronomical texts place the Celestial Street between the Bi and Mao constellations; the imperial train therefore led with bihan, square like Bi and round like Mao, imitating the stars. The Star Canon also names Mao 'maotou,' which is why those who carried it wore caps of fur and feathers.'
19
輕車,古之戰車也。 輪輿洞朱,不巾不蓋,建矛戟幢麾,置弩於軾上,駕二。 射聲校尉司馬吏士載,以次屬車。
The light carriage was the ancient battle chariot. Its wheels and body were lacquered vermilion, open to the sky; spears, halberds, standards, and flags rose from it, crossbows mounted on the side rail, and two horses in harness. Officers and men of the shouting-archer command rode them in sequence among the follow cars.
20
漢儀曰:「出稱警,入稱蹕。」 說者云,車駕出則應稱警,入則應稱蹕也,而今俱唱之。 史臣以為警者,警戒也。 蹕者,止行也。 今從乘輿而出者,並警戒以備非常也。 從外而入乘輿相干者,蹕而止之也。 董巴、司馬彪云:「諸侯王遮迾出入,稱警設蹕。」
Han court ritual prescribed: 'Going forth is announced as jing; entering, as bi.' Commentators held that the escort should cry jing on departure and bi on return; in practice both cries were used at once. The compiler explains jing as vigilance and warning. Bi means to stop traffic. Today everyone who accompanies the emperor leaving the palace is kept on alert against mishap. Anyone approaching from outside who would cross the emperor's path is stopped with a cry of bi. Dong Ba and Sima Biao note that when princes screened their comings and goings, they too proclaimed jing and enforced bi.
21
武剛車,有巾有蓋,在前為先驅。 又在輕車之後為殿也。 駕一。 史記,衞青征匈奴,以武剛車為營是也。
The wugang carriage had both side curtains and a canopy, riding ahead as the vanguard. It also brought up the rear behind the light chariots. A single team drew it. The Shiji relates that Wei Qing, campaigning against the Xiongnu, ringed his camps with wugang carriages—this is that usage.
22
漢制,大行載轀輬車,四輪。 其飾如金根,加施組連璧,交絡,四角金龍首銜璧,垂五采,析羽流蘇,前後雲氣畫帷裳,𣝛文畫曲蕃,長與車等。 太僕御,駕六白駱馬,以黑藥灼其身為虎文,謂之布施馬。 既下,馬斥賣,車藏城北祕宮。 今則馬不虎文,不斥賣; 車則毀也。 自漢霍光、晉安平、齊王、賈充、王導、謝安、宋江夏王葬以殊禮者,皆大輅黃屋,載轀輬車。
Under Han law, the great funeral procession carried the wenliang carriage on four wheels. It was decorated like the golden-root imperial hearse, with knotted cords linking jade disks, interwoven fittings, dragon heads at each corner biting disks, five-colored pendants, split plumes and silk tassels, cloud motifs painted on the curtains fore and aft, and carved lacquer on the curved carriage box, all as long as the vehicle. The grand marshal drove six white Bactrian camels, their hides branded with black dye in tiger stripes—the 'alms horses.' After the interment the camels were sold cheaply and the carriage stored in the northern secret palace. Nowadays the camels are neither striped like tigers nor sold afterward; the carriage itself is simply broken up. From Huo Guang in Han through the Duke of Anping, Prince of Qi, Jia Chong, Wang Dao, and Xie An in Jin, down to the Song Prince of Jiangxia, every statesman granted extraordinary funeral honors rode the great carriage under the yellow canopy with the wenliang hearse.
23
晉令曰:「乘傳出使,遭喪以上,即自表聞,聽得白服乘騾車,到副使攝事。」 徐廣車服注:「傳聞騾車者,犢車裝而馬車轅也。」 又車無蓋者曰科車。
Jin statute allowed: if an envoy on relay service learned of a parent's death, he was to report it at once, travel in white on a mule cart, and let his deputy conduct the mission on arrival. Xu Guang explains that the 'mule carriage' of relay travel was really a light calf-cart frame fitted with horse shafts. A carriage without a canopy was termed a ke carriage.
24
晉武帝時,護軍將軍羊琇乘羊車,司隸校尉劉毅奏彈之。 詔曰:「羊車雖無制,猶非素者所服。」 江左來無禁也。
Under Emperor Wu of Jin, Defender-General Yang Xiu rode in a sheep cart, and Director Liu Yi impeached him for it. The throne replied: 'Even if the sheep cart is nowhere forbidden, it is not fitting for men who profess simplicity.' After the court moved south, the practice went unchecked.
25
舊有充庭之制,臨軒大會,陳乘輿車輦旌鼓於殿庭。 張衡東京賦云:「龍路充庭,鸞旗拂霓。」 晉江左廢絕。 宋孝武大明中修復。
An old rite called chongting required that at grand audiences the emperor's chariots, palanquins, banners, and drums be displayed throughout the palace courtyard. Zhang Heng wrote: 'Dragon paths crowd the courtyard; luan banners sweep the rainbow sky.' The Jin court south of the Yangzi abandoned it. Emperor Xiaowu of Song revived the practice in the Daming period.
26
上古寢處皮毛,未有制度。 後代聖人見鳥獸毛羽及其文章與草木華采之色,因染絲綵以作衣裳,為玄黃之服,以法乾坤上下之儀; 觀鳥獸冠胡之形,制冠冕纓蕤之飾。 虞氏作繢,采章彌文,夏后崇約,猶美黻冕。 咎繇陳謨,則稱五服五章。 皆後王所不得異也。 周監二代,典制詳密,故弁師掌六冕,司服掌六服,設擬等差,各有其序。 禮記冠義曰:「冠者禮之始,嘉事之重者也。」 太古布冠,齊則緇之。 夏曰毋追,殷曰章甫,周曰委貌,此皆三代常所囗囗周之祭冕,繅采備飾,故夫子曰「服周之冕」,以盡美稱之。 至秦以戰國即天子位,滅去古制,郊祭之服,皆以袀玄。 至漢明帝始採周官、禮記、尚書諸儒說,還備袞冕之服。 魏明帝以公卿袞衣黼黻之文,擬於至尊,復損略之。 晉以來無改更也。 天子禮郊廟,則黑介幘,平冕,今所謂平天冠也。 皁表朱綠裏,廣七寸,長尺二寸,垂珠十二旒。 以朱組為纓,衣皁上絳下,前三幅,後四幅,衣畫而裳繡,為日、月、星辰、山、龍、華、蟲、藻、火、粉米、黼、黻之象,凡十二章也。 素帶廣四寸,朱裏,以朱緣裨飾其側。 中衣以絳緣其領袖。 赤皮蔽膝。 蔽膝,古之韍也。 絳袴,絳襪,赤舄。 未加元服者,空頂介幘。 其釋奠先聖,則皁紗裙,絳緣中衣,絳袴袜,黑舄。 其臨軒亦袞冕也。 其朝服,通天冠,高九寸,金博山顏,黑介幘,絳紗裙,皁緣中衣。 其拜陵,黑介幘,菚單衣。 其雜服,有青赤黃白緗黑色介幘,五色紗裙,五梁進賢冠,遠遊冠,平上幘,武冠。 其素服,白𢂿單衣。 漢儀,立秋日獵服緗幘。 晉哀帝初,博士曹弘之等儀:「立秋御讀令,不應緗幘。 求改用素。」 詔從之。 宋文帝元嘉六年,奉朝請徐道娛表:「不應素幘。」 詔門下詳議,帝執宜如舊。 遂不改。
In deepest antiquity people slept in skins and furs, without regulated dress at all. Later sages, observing the plumage of birds and beasts and the hues of plants, dyed silk into robes and set black above and yellow below to mirror heaven and earth. From crests and muzzles they devised caps, crowns, cords, and hanging regalia. Yu introduced embroidery and ever richer pattern; Xia prized restraint, yet still revered the patterned coronet. When Gao Yao laid out his plan, he spoke of five garments and five emblems. No later king might change these foundations. Zhou, reviewing Xia and Yin, codified dress with precision: one office for the six crowns, another for the six robes, each rank in its proper sequence. The Record of Rites declares: 'The cap is where ritual begins—the foremost of celebratory observances.' The earliest cap was plain cloth; in Qi it was dyed black. Xia named it wuzhui, Yin zhangfu, Zhou weimao—the everyday crowns of the Three Dynasties. Only Zhou's sacrificial crown bore spun silk and full regalia; hence Confucius's praise, 'Wear the crown of Zhou,' as the perfection of beauty. Qin, rising from a feudal king of the Warring States, swept away the old wardrobe; suburban sacrifice was performed in plain dark robes. Not until Emperor Ming of Han drew on the Offices of Zhou, the Record of Rites, the Documents, and the ru scholars was full gun-mian dress restored. Emperor Ming of Wei trimmed ministerial gun robes when their fu-and-fu emblems too closely matched the emperor's. Since Jin times the wardrobe has remained essentially unchanged. For suburban and temple rites the emperor wears a black cap-kerchief under the level crown—the pingtian guan of later usage. The crown is black outside with vermilion-green lining, seven inches wide and one foot two long, with twelve bead strings. Vermilion cords serve as the chin strap; the coat is black above and crimson below, three panels fore and four aft; the upper robe is painted and the skirt embroidered with sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, flowers, insects, waterweed, fire, grain, fu, and fu—twelve symbols in all. A plain belt four inches wide, lined in vermilion, its flaps edged in vermilion. The under-robe bears crimson trim at collar and cuffs. A knee-piece of red leather. That knee-piece is the ancient fu. Crimson trousers and socks, red court shoes. Youths not yet capped wore the open-topped cap-kerchief. For sacrifices to Confucius he wore a black gauze skirt, crimson-trimmed under-robe, crimson trousers and socks, and black shoes. He also wears full gun-mian when holding audience. Court dress paired the tongtian crown—nine inches high, with a golden Bo Mountain motif—with a black cap-kerchief, crimson gauze skirt, and black-trimmed under-robe. Tomb visits called for a black cap-kerchief and a plain white hemp robe. Miscellaneous occasions allowed kerchiefs in six colors, five-colored gauze skirts, and crowns ranging from the five-ribbed jinxian to the yuanyou, pingshang kerchief, and wuguan. Mourning or plain dress meant a white zong-cloth robe. Han ritual prescribed a light-yellow kerchief for the autumn hunt on Beginning of Autumn. Early in Emperor Ai's reign, Academician Cao Hongzhi argued that the autumn ordinance ceremony should not use the light-yellow kerchief. They petitioned to use plain white instead. The throne approved. In Song the sixth year of Yuanjia, Attendant Xu Daoyu protested that plain white was wrong for the occasion. The Secretariat was ordered to debate; the emperor insisted on keeping the old color. The light-yellow kerchief remained in use.
27
進賢冠,前高七寸,後高三寸,長八寸,梁數隨貴賤,古之緇布冠也。 文儒者之所服。 上公、卿助祭於郊廟,皆平冕,王公八旒,卿七旒,以組為纓,色如其綬。 王公衣山龍以下,九章也,卿衣華蟲以下,七章也。 行鄉射禮,則公卿委貌冠,以皁絹為之,形如覆杯,與皮弁同制。 長七寸,高四寸。 衣黑而裳素。 其中衣以皁緣領袖。 其執事之人皮弁,以鹿皮為之。
The jinxian crown stood seven inches high in front, three behind, eight long; the number of ribs marked rank—it evolved from the ancient black cloth cap. Literati and classicists wore it. Great dukes and ministers assisting at suburban and temple rites all wore the level crown—eight tassels for kings and dukes, seven for ministers—with cord chin-straps dyed to match their sashes. Kings and dukes bore nine emblems from the mountain-dragon down; ministers bore seven from the floral creature down. For the village archery ceremony, dukes and ministers wore the weimao—black silk gauze shaped like an inverted cup, identical in form to the deer-skin cap. It measured seven inches long and four inches high. They wore black robes with plain white skirts. The under-robe bore black trim at collar and cuffs. Ritual attendants wore the deer-skin cap, fashioned from deerskin.
28
武冠,昔惠文冠,本趙服也,一名大冠。 凡侍臣則加貂蟬。 應劭漢官曰:「說者以金取堅剛,百鍊不耗; 蟬居高食潔,口在腋下; 貂內勁悍而外溫潤。」 此因物生義,非其實也。 其實趙武靈王變胡,而秦滅趙,以其君冠賜侍臣,故秦、漢以來,侍臣有貂蟬也。 徐廣車服注稱其意曰:「北土寒涼,本以貂皮㬉額,附施於冠,因遂變成首飾乎?」 侍中左貂,常侍右貂。
The wuguan—once the Huizwen crown—was originally Zhao attire, also known as the great crown. Palace attendants added marten and cicada ornaments to it. Ying Shao's Offices of Han records the gloss: expositors likened gold to toughness—refined a hundred times without loss; the cicada dwells aloft on purity, its mouth tucked beneath its wings; the marten fierce within, warm and sleek without.' Such readings derive moral meaning from the emblems—not their true history. In truth King Wuling of Zhao adopted northern dress; when Qin conquered Zhao, the royal crown passed to palace attendants—hence the marten and cicada on courtiers since Qin and Han. Xu Guang's notes on carriages and dress suggest: 'In the cold north, marten fur first lined the brow and was fixed to the crown—did it then become mere ornament?' The palace attendant wore the marten on the left, the regular attendant on the right.
29
法冠,本楚服也。 一名柱後,一名獬豸。 說者云:「獬豸獸知曲直,以角觸不正者也。」 秦滅楚,以其君冠賜法官。
The law crown originated as Chu court dress. It was also called pillar-behind and xiezhi. Expositors claimed: 'The xiezhi beast discerns right from wrong and gores the unjust with its horn.' When Qin conquered Chu, the royal crown was given to judges.
30
謁者高山冠,本齊服也。 一名側注冠。 秦滅齊,以其君冠賜謁者。 魏明帝以其形似通天、遠遊,乃毀變之。
The usher's high-mountain crown came from Qi. It was also called the side-pouring crown. When Qin conquered Qi, the royal crown passed to ushers. Emperor Ming of Wei, finding it too like the tongtian and yuanyou crowns, had it remade.
31
樊噲冠,廣九寸,制似平冕,殿門衞士服之。 漢將樊噲常持鐵盾。 鴻門之會,項羽欲害漢王,乃裂裳以苞盾,戴入見羽。 漢承秦制,冠有十三種,魏、晉以來,不盡施用。 今志其施用者也。
The Fan Kuai crown, nine inches wide and modeled on the level crown, was worn by palace-gate guards. The Han general Fan Kuai habitually carried an iron shield. At Hong Gate, when Xiang Yu plotted against the King of Han, Fan Kuai tore his robe to sheath the shield and entered wearing it. Han took over Qin's thirteen crown types, but since Wei and Jin not all remained in service. What follows records those still in use.
32
幘者,古賤人不冠者之服也。 漢元帝額有壯髮,始引幘服之。 王莽頂禿,又加其屋也。 漢注曰:「冠進賢者宜長耳,今介幘也。 冠惠文者宜短耳,今平上幘也。 知時各隨所宜,後遂因冠為別。」 介幘服文吏,平上服武官也。 童子幘無屋者,示未成人也。 又有納言幘,後收,又一重,方三寸。 又有赤幘,騎吏、武吏、乘輿鼓吹所服。 救日蝕,文武官皆免冠,著赤幘,對朝服,示威武也。 宋乘輿鼓吹,黑幘武冠。
The kerchief was originally the headwear of commoners who wore no formal cap. Emperor Yuan of Han, with heavy brow hair, first wore the kerchief pulled low. Wang Mang, bald on top, added a crown to the kerchief. Han commentary states: 'The jinxian crown calls for long flaps—today's bound kerchief. The Huizwen crown calls for short flaps—today's level-top kerchief. Each era chose what fit; later the kerchief types diverged according to the crown worn.' Civil officials wore the bound kerchief; military officers the level-top kerchief. A youth's kerchief without a top showed he was not yet of age. There was also the remonstrance kerchief, gathered at the back with an extra layer three inches square. There was also the red kerchief for mounted clerks, martial clerks, and imperial musicians. During eclipse rites, civil and military officials doffed their caps for red kerchiefs over court dress, displaying martial resolve. Song imperial musicians wore black kerchiefs with the wuguan.
33
漢制,祀事五郊,天子與執事所服各如方色; 百官不執事者,自服常服以從。 常服,絳衣也。
Under Han ritual, at sacrifices to the five suburbs the emperor and officiants dressed in each quarter's color; non-officiating officials wore ordinary dress to attend. Ordinary dress meant crimson robes.
34
魏祕書監秦靜曰:「漢氏承秦,改六冕之制,俱玄冠絳衣而已。」 晉名曰五時朝服; 有四時朝服,又有朝服。
Qin Jing, Director of the Wei Secretariat, wrote: 'Han took Qin's six crowns and reduced them to black caps and crimson robes.' Jin called this the five-season court dress; alongside four-season court dress and plain court dress.
35
凡兵事,總謂之戎。 尚書云:「一戎衣而天下定。」 周禮:「革路以即戎。」 又曰:「兵事韋弁服。」 以𩎟韋為弁,又以為衣裳。 春秋左傳:「戎服將事。」 又云:「晉郤至衣𩎟韋之跗。」 注,先儒云:「𩎟,絳色。」 今時伍伯衣。 說者云,五霸兵戰,猶有綬紱、冠纓、漫胡,則戎服非袴褶之制,未詳所起。 近代車駕親戎中外戒嚴之服,無定色,冠黑帽,綴紫褾。 褾以繒為之,長四寸,廣一寸。 腰有絡帶,以代鞶革。 中官紫褾,外官絳褾。 又有纂嚴戎服,而不綴褾。 行留文武悉同。 其畋獵巡幸,則唯從官戎服,帶鞶革; 文官不下纓,武官脫冠。 宋文帝元嘉中,巡幸蒐狩皆如之; 救宮廟水火,亦如之。
All military affairs were collectively termed rong. The Documents says: 'One military garment and the realm was settled." The Offices of Zhou: "The leather carriage for taking the field." It also says: "For military affairs, the rawhide cap and dress." Rawhide served for both cap and garments. The Zuo Commentary: 'He will conduct the affair in military dress." It also records that "Jin's Xi Zhi wore rawhide leggings." Early commentators glossed rawhide as "crimson." Headmen wear it today. Expositors note that even under the Five Hegemons, armies still bore sashes, cords, crown tassels, and manhu fringes—so military dress was not yet jacket and trousers; its origins remain obscure. Recently, when the emperor took the field or martial law was proclaimed, dress had no fixed hue: a black cap with a purple pennon attached. The pennon was silk, four inches long and one inch wide. A mesh belt at the waist replaced the panther-skin baldric. Inner officials wore purple pennons; outer officials crimson. There was also the gathered-alert military dress, worn without a pennon. Civil and military officials alike wore it whether on the march or in camp. On hunts and tours only attendants wore military dress with panther-skin baldrics; civil officials kept their tassels up; military officers doffed their caps. Under Emperor Wen of Song in Yuanjia, tours and hunts followed the same rule; as did responses to fire or flood at palace temples.
36
漢制,太后入廟祭神服,紺上皁下,親蠶,青上縹下,皆深衣。 深衣,即單衣也。 首飾剪氂幗。
Han law prescribed for the Empress Dowager at temple sacrifice dark blue above and black below; for the silkworm rite, blue above and light blue below—all as deep garments. The deep garment was a single-layer robe. Head ornaments were trimmed lambskin headcloths.
37
漢制,皇后謁廟服,紺上皁下。 親蠶,青上縹下。 首飾,假髻,步搖,八雀,九華,加以翡翠。 晉先蠶儀注,皇后十二䥖,步搖,大手髻,衣純青之衣,帶綬佩。 今皇后謁廟服袿䙱大衣,謂之褘衣。 公主三夫人大手髻,七䥖,蔽髻。 九嬪及公夫人五䥖。 世婦三䥖。 公主會見,大手髻。 其長公主得有步搖。 公主封君以上皆帶綬,以采組為緄帶,各如其綬色。 公特進列侯夫人、卿校世婦、二千石命婦年長者,紺繒幗。 佐祭則皁絹上下。 助蠶則青絹上下。 自皇后至二千石命婦,皆以蠶衣為朝服。
Han law gave the queen dark blue above and black below for temple visits. For the silkworm rite, blue above and light blue below. Her headgear included a false topknot, step-shake, eight sparrows, nine flowers, and kingfisher inlay. Jin silkworm protocol gave the queen twelve hairpins, step-shake, a great hand-bun, a pure blue robe, sash, and jade pendant. Today the queen's temple dress is the great panelled robe called huiyi. Princesses and the three chief consorts wore the great hand-bun, seven hairpins, and covered topknot. The nine consorts and ducal wives wore five hairpins. Palace women wore three. Princesses at audiences wore the great hand-bun. Senior princesses alone might wear step-shake. Princesses and ennobled ladies of rank and above wore sashes with colored cord border belts matching their sash hues. Wives of specially advanced dukes and marquises, palace women of grandees and generals, and elder titled wives of 2000-bush rank wore dark-blue silk headcloths. When assisting sacrifice they wore black silk above and below. When assisting the silkworm rite, blue silk above and below. From the queen down to titled wives of 2000-bush rank, silkworm dress doubled as court dress.
38
劉向曰:「古者天子至于士,王后至于命婦,必佩玉,尊卑各有其制。」 禮記曰:「天子佩白玉而玄組綬,公侯山玄玉而朱組綬,卿大夫水蒼玉而緇組綬,士佩瓀玟而縕組綬。」 縕,赤黃色。 綬者,所貫佩相承受也。 上下施韍如蔽膝,貴賤亦各有殊。 五霸之後,戰兵不息,佩非兵器,韍非戰儀,於是解去佩韍,留其繫襚而已。 秦乃以采組連結於襚,轉相結受,謂之綬。 漢承用之。 至明帝始復制佩,而漢末又亡絕。 魏侍中王粲識其形,乃復造焉。 今之佩,粲所制也。 皇后至命婦所佩,古制不存,今與外同制,秦組綬,仍又施之。
Liu Xiang wrote: 'In antiquity, from the Son of Heaven to the shi, from the queen to titled wives, all wore jade—each rank by its rule." The Record of Rites specifies: "the Son of Heaven white jade on black cord; dukes and marquises mountain-black jade on vermilion cord; grandees and ministers water-green jade on black cord; shi ruo-min jade on tawny cord." Yun denotes red-yellow. The sash strung the pendants together in sequence. Above and below hung the fu, like the knee-piece—each rank distinct. After the Five Hegemons war never ceased; pendants were not weapons, fu not battle gear—so both were cast off, leaving only the fastening cords. Qin linked colored cords to those fastenings in interlocking succession—this became the sash. Han adopted the practice. Emperor Ming restored jade pendants, but by late Han they vanished again. Wei Attendant Wang Can recovered the design and had it recreated. Today's pendants are his. For the queen down to titled wives the ancient rules are lost; they now follow court practice—Qin-style cord sashes with pendants restored.
39
漢制,自天子至于百官,無不佩刀。 司馬彪志具有其制。 漢高祖為泗水亭長,拔劍斬白蛇。 雋不疑云:「劍者,君子武備。」 張衡東京賦,「紆黃組,腰干將。」 然則自人君至士人,又帶劍也。 自晉代以來,始以木劍代刃劍。
Under Han law, from the Son of Heaven to every official, all wore swords. Sima Biao's Treatise records the full regulations. As chief of Sishui precinct, Han Gaozu drew his sword and slew the white serpent. Jun Buyi wrote: "The sword is a gentleman's martial gear." Zhang Heng's Rhapsody on the Eastern Capital has it: "Yellow cords looped, Ganjiang at the waist." So from the ruler to the scholar, all wore swords at the belt as well. From the Jin dynasty on, wooden swords replaced edged blades.
40
乘輿六璽,秦制也。 漢舊儀曰:「皇帝行璽,皇帝之璽,皇帝信璽,天子行璽,天子之璽,天子信璽。」 此則漢遵秦也。 初高祖入關,得秦始皇藍田玉璽,螭虎紐,文曰「受天之命,皇帝壽昌」。 高祖佩之,後代名曰傳國璽。 與斬白蛇劍俱為乘輿所寶。 傳國璽,魏、晉至今不廢; 斬白蛇劍,晉惠帝武庫火燒之,今亡。 晉懷帝沒胡,傳國璽沒於劉聰,後又屬石勒。 及石勒弟石虎死,胡亂,晉穆帝代,乃還天府。 虞喜志林曰:「傳國璽,自在六璽之外,天子凡七璽也。」 漢注曰:「璽,印也。 自秦以前,臣下皆以金玉為印,龍虎紐,唯所好。 秦以來,以璽為稱,又獨以玉,臣下莫得用。」 漢制,皇帝黃赤綬,四采,黃、赤、縹、紺。 皇后金璽,綬亦如之。 於禮,士綬之色如此,後代變古也。 吳無刻玉工,以金為璽。 孫晧造金璽六枚是也。 又有麟鳳龜龍璽,駞馬鴨頭雜印,今代則闕也。
The six seals of the imperial equipage were a Qin institution. Old Han Protocol lists them: the Emperor's Traveling Seal, the Emperor's Seal, the Emperor's Trust Seal, the Son of Heaven's Traveling Seal, the Son of Heaven's Seal, and the Son of Heaven's Trust Seal." Han simply followed Qin in this. When the High Ancestor first entered the Pass, he took Qin Shihuang's Lantian jade seal—dragon-tiger knob, inscription: "Having received Heaven's mandate, may the emperor endure and prosper." The High Ancestor wore it at his belt; later ages called it the Heirloom Seal of the Realm. With the sword that slew the white serpent, both were treasures of the imperial equipage. The Heirloom Seal, from Wei and Jin to the present day, has never been set aside; the white-serpent sword burned in the arsenal fire under Emperor Hui of Jin and is lost today. When Emperor Huai of Jin died among the Hu, the Heirloom Seal fell to Liu Cong and later to Shi Le. After Shi Hu, Shi Le's brother, died in the Hu upheavals, it returned to the royal treasury in the reign of Emperor Mu of Jin. Yu Xi's Forest of Records notes: "The Heirloom Seal lay outside the six—the Son of Heaven had seven seals in all." Han commentary glosses: "Xi means seal. Before Qin, subjects used gold or jade seals with dragon or tiger knobs as they chose. Since Qin the term xi was reserved, jade alone was used, and subjects might not employ it." Under Han law the emperor wore a yellow-vermilion sash in four colors: yellow, vermilion, light blue, and dark blue. The empress bore a gold seal and the same sash. By ritual a shi's sash should have been such; later ages altered the ancient rule. Wu had no jade carvers and used gold for its seals. Sun Hao's six gold seals were an instance of this. There were also unicorn, phoenix, tortoise, and dragon seals, and camel, horse, and duck-head seals of various kinds—today these are omitted.
41
皇太子,金璽,龜紐,纁朱綬,四采,赤、黃、縹、紺。 給五時朝服,遠遊冠,亦有三梁進賢冠。 佩瑜玉。
The crown prince: gold seal, tortoise knob, scarlet-vermilion sash in four colors—vermilion, yellow, light blue, and dark blue. He received five-season court dress, the far-roaming crown, and also the three-ribbed worthy crown. He wore lustrous jade.
42
諸王,金璽,龜紐,纁朱綬,四采,赤、黃、縹、紺。 給五時朝服,遠遊冠,亦有三梁進賢冠。 佩山玄玉。
Princes: gold seal, tortoise knob, scarlet-vermilion sash in four colors—vermilion, yellow, light blue, and dark blue. They received five-season court dress, the far-roaming crown, and also the three-ribbed worthy crown. They wore mountain-black jade.
43
郡公,金章,玄朱綬。 給五時朝服,進賢三梁冠,佩山玄玉。 太宰、太傅、太保、丞相、司徒、司空,金章,紫綬。 給五時朝服,進賢三梁冠。 佩山玄玉。 相國則綠綟綬,三采,綠、紫、紺。 綟,草名也,其色綠。 大司馬、大將軍、太尉、凡將軍位從公者,金章,紫綬。 給五時朝服,武冠。 佩山玄玉。 郡侯,金章,青朱綬。 給五時朝服,進賢三梁冠。 佩水蒼玉。
Regional dukes: gold badge, dark-vermilion sash. They received five-season court dress, the three-ribbed worthy crown, and mountain-black jade. The Grand Preceptor, Grand Tutor, Grand Guardian, Chancellor, Minister over the Masses, and Minister of Works: gold badge, purple sash. They received five-season court dress and the three-ribbed worthy crown. They wore mountain-black jade. The Chancellor of State alone wore a green-purple sash in three colors: green, purple, and dark blue. Lu is a plant name; its hue is green. The Grand Marshal, Grand General, Grand Commandant, and all generals of ducal rank: gold badge, purple sash. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown. They wore mountain-black jade. Regional marquises: gold badge, blue-vermilion sash. They received five-season court dress and the three-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
44
驃騎、車騎將軍、凡諸將軍加大者,征、鎮、安、平、中軍、鎮軍、撫軍、前、左、右、後將軍,征虜、冠軍、輔國、龍驤將軍,金章,紫綬。 給五時朝服,武冠。 佩水蒼玉。
The Swift Cavalry and Chariot Cavalry generals, all generals with the senior prefix, and the Campaigning, Garrisoning, Pacifying, Tranquilizing, Central Army, Army Garrisoning, Army Pacifying, Front, Left, Right, and Rear generals, plus the Campaigning against Barbarians, Champion, State-Supporting, and Dragon-Prancing generals—all bore gold badges and purple sashes. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown. They wore water-green jade.
45
貴嬪、夫人、貴人,金章,文曰貴嬪、夫人、貴人之章。 紫綬。 佩于闐玉。
Honored Consorts, Ladies, and Honored Ladies: gold badges inscribed "Seal of the Honored Consort," "Seal of the Lady," and "Seal of the Honored Lady." Purple sash. They wore Khotan jade.
46
淑妃、淑媛、淑儀、修華、修容、修儀、婕妤、容華、充華,銀印,文曰淑妃、淑媛、淑儀、修華、修容、修儀、婕妤、容華、充華之印。 青綬。 佩五采瓊玉。
Pure Consorts, Pure Ladies, Pure Ceremonials, Cultivated Splendors, Cultivated Countenances, Cultivated Ceremonials, Ladies of Handsome Fairness, Splendid Countenances, and Fulfilling Splendors: silver seals bearing each respective title. Blue sash. They wore five-colored fine jade.
47
皇太子妃,金璽,龜紐,纁朱綬。 佩瑜玉。
The crown prince's consort: gold seal, tortoise knob, scarlet-vermilion sash. She wore lustrous jade.
48
諸王太妃、妃、諸長公主、公主、封君,金印,紫綬。 佩山玄玉。
Princes' senior consorts and consorts, senior princesses, princesses, and ennobled ladies of rank: gold seal, purple sash. They wore mountain-black jade.
49
諸王世子,金印,紫綬。 五時朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 佩山玄玉。
Princes' heirs: gold seal, purple sash. Five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore mountain-black jade.
50
郡公侯太夫人、夫人,銀印,青綬。 佩水蒼玉。
Senior ladies and ladies of regional dukes and marquises: silver seal, blue sash. They wore water-green jade.
51
郡公侯世子,銀印,青綬。 給五時朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 佩水蒼玉。
Heirs of regional dukes and marquises: silver seal, blue sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
52
侍中、散騎常侍及中常侍,給五時朝服,武冠。 貂蟬,侍中左,常侍右。 皆佩水蒼玉。
Attendants-in-Ordinary, Regular Attendants of the Rapid Cavalry, and Palace Attendants received five-season court dress and the martial crown. Marten and cicada insignia: Attendant-in-Ordinary on the left, Regular Attendant on the right. All wore water-green jade.
53
尚書令、僕射,銅印,墨綬。 給五時朝服,納言幘,進賢兩梁冠。 佩水蒼玉。
The Director and Vice Director of the Masters of Writing: bronze seal, black sash. They received five-season court dress, the Remonstrator's cap, and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
54
尚書,給五時朝服,納言幘,進賢兩梁冠。 佩水蒼玉。
Masters of Writing received five-season court dress, the Remonstrator's cap, and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
55
中書監令、祕書監,銅印,墨綟綬。 給五時朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 佩水蒼玉。
The Supervisor and Director of the Palace Secretariat and the Director of the Palace Library: bronze seal, black-green sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
56
光祿大夫、卿、尹、太子保、傅、大長秋、太子詹事,銀章,青綬。 給五時朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 佩水蒼玉。
Household Grandees, ministers, metropolitan magistrates, the crown prince's tutors and guardians, the Grand Director of the Palace Domestic Service, and the Supervisor of the Crown Prince's Household: silver badge, blue sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
57
衞尉,則武冠。 衞尉,江左不置。 宋孝武孝建初始置,不檢晉服制,止以九卿皆文冠及進賢兩梁冠,非舊也。
The Commandant of the Guard alone wore the martial crown. The Commandant of the Guard was not established in the Jiangzuo court. Emperor Xiaowu of Song first established the post in the inaugural Xiaojian year; without consulting Jin dress regulations, he merely gave all Nine Ministers literary caps and two-ribbed worthy crowns—not the ancient rule.
58
司隸校尉、武尉、左右衞、中堅、中壘、驍騎、游擊、前軍、左軍、右軍、後軍、寧朔、建威、振威、奮威、揚威、廣威、建武、振武、奮武、揚武、廣武、左右積弩、強弩諸將軍、監軍,銀章,青綬。 給五時朝服,武冠。 佩水蒼玉。
The Colonel Director of Retainers, Martial Commandant, Left and Right Guards, Central Solid and Central Rampart, Valiant Cavalry and Mobile Strike, Front, Left, Right, and Rear Armies, the Tranquilizing, Establishing, Shaking, Stirring, Raising, and Broad Might and Martial generals, Left and Right Accumulated Crossbows and Strong Crossbow generals, and Army Supervisors—all bore silver badges and blue sashes. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown. They wore water-green jade.
59
領軍、護軍、城門五營校尉、東南西北中郎將,銀印,青綬。 給五時朝服,武冠。 佩水蒼玉。
Army Directors, Army Protectors, colonels of the five gate garrisons, and generals of the east, south, west, north, and center: silver seal, blue sash. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown. They wore water-green jade.
60
縣、鄉、亭侯,金印,紫綬。 朝服,進賢三梁冠。
District, township, and precinct marquises: gold seal, purple sash. Court dress and the three-ribbed worthy crown.
61
鷹揚、折衝、輕車、揚烈、威遠、寧遠、虎威、材官、伏波、淩江諸將軍,銀章,青綬。 給五時朝服,武冠。
The Eagle-Raising, Ram-Charging, Light Chariot, Flame-Raising, Far-Reaching Might, Tranquilizing the Far, Tiger Might, Materiel Officer, Wave-Subduing, and River-Crossing generals: silver badge, blue sash. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown.
62
奮武護軍、安夷撫軍、護軍、軍州郡國都尉、奉車、駙馬、騎都尉、諸護軍將兵助郡都尉、水衡、典虞、牧官、典牧都尉、度支中郎將、校尉、都尉、司鹽都尉、材官校尉、王國中尉、宜禾伊吾都尉、監淮南津都尉,銀印,青綬。 五時朝服,武冠。
The Stirring Martial Army Protector, Pacifying the Yi Army Pacifier, Army Protectors, commandants of army districts, provinces, commanderies, and states, Chariot Bearer, Master of the Side-Stable, Commandant of Cavalry, commandants of army protectors leading troops to assist commandery commandants, Director of Waterways, Director of Parks, Pasturage Officer, Director of Pasturage Commandant, Central Cadet of Revenue, colonels and commandants, Commandant Director of Salt, Materiel Colonel, Royal Domain Commandant, Commandant of Yiwu in Yizhou, and Commandant Overseeing the Huai River Ford—all bore silver seals and blue sashes. Five-season court dress and the martial crown.
63
州刺史,銅印,墨綬。 給絳朝服,進賢兩梁冠。
Provincial governors: bronze seal, black sash. They received scarlet court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
64
御史中丞、都水使者,銅印,墨綬。 給五時朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 佩水蒼玉。
The Palace Assistant Imperial Secretary and Commissioner of Waterways: bronze seal, black sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
65
謁者僕射,銅印,墨綬。 給四時朝服,高山冠。 佩水蒼玉。
The Supervisor of Ushers: bronze seal, black sash. He received four-season court dress and the high-mountain crown. They wore water-green jade.
66
諸軍司馬,銀章,青綬。 朝服,武冠。
Marshals of the various armies: silver badge, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
67
給事中、黃門侍郎、散騎侍郎、太子中庶子、庶子,給五時朝服,武冠。
Attendants Within the Gates, Gentlemen Attendants at the Yellow Gates, Gentlemen Cavalier Attendants, Senior Household Attendants of the Heir Apparent, and Household Attendants received five-season court dress and the martial crown.
68
中書侍郎,給五時朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Secretariat Attendants received five-season court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
69
宂從僕射、太子衞率,銅印,墨綬。 給五時朝服,武冠。
The Deputy Palace Attendant and Superintendent of the Heir Apparent's Guard: bronze seal, black sash. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown.
70
虎賁中郎將、羽林監,銅印,墨綬。 給四時朝服,武冠。 其在陛列及備鹵簿,鶡尾,絳紗縠單衣。 鶡鳥似雞,出上黨。 為鳥強猛,鬭不死不止。 復著鶡尾。
Central Cadets of the Tiger Garrison and Supervisors of the Forest of Feathers: bronze seal, black sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown. On the imperial staircase or in the guard of honor they wore crossbill plumes and scarlet gauze single robes. The crossbill resembles a fowl and is native to Shangdang. A fierce bird, it fights to the death without yielding. Hence they again wore the crossbill plume.
71
北軍中候、殿中監,銅印,墨綬。 給四時朝服,武冠。
The Central Inspector of the Northern Army and Palace Supervisor: bronze seal, black sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
72
護匈奴中郎將、護羌夷戎蠻越烏丸西域戊己校尉,銅印,青綬。 朝服,武冠。
The Protector General of the Xiongnu, protector cadets for the Qiang, Yi, Rong, southern tribes, Wuhuan, and Western Regions, and the Colonel of Geng and Ji: bronze seal, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
73
郡國太守、相、內史,銀章,青綬。 朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 江左止單衣幘。 其加中二千石者,依卿、尹。
Grand Administrators, Chancellors, and Chief Administrators of commanderies and states: silver badge, blue sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. In the Jiangzuo court they wore only single robes and kerchiefs. Those advanced to the middle two-thousand-bushel rank followed the dress of ministers and metropolitan chiefs.
74
牙門將,銀章,青綬。 朝服,武冠。
Gate-guard generals: silver badge, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
75
騎都督、守,銀印,青綬。 朝服,武冠。
Cavalry commanders-in-chief and defenders: silver seal, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
76
尚書左右丞、祕書丞,銅印,黃綬。 朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Left and Right Assistants of the Masters of Writing and Secretariat Aides: bronze seal, yellow sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
77
尚書祕書郎、太子中舍人、洗馬、舍人,朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Gentlemen of the Masters of Writing and Secretariat, Household Gentlemen of the Center, Grooms of the Heir Apparent, and Household Gentlemen wore court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
78
黃沙治書侍御史,銀印,墨綬。 朝服,法冠。
The Attending Imperial Secretary for Punishments of the Yellow Sands: silver seal, black sash. Court dress and the law crown.
79
侍御史,朝服,法冠。
Attending censors wore court dress and the law crown.
80
關內、關中名號侯,金印,紫綬。 朝服,進賢兩梁冠。
Named marquises within the passes and in Guanzhong: gold seal, purple sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
81
諸博士,給皁朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 佩水蒼玉。
All erudites received black court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
82
公府長史、諸卿尹丞、諸縣署令秩千石者,銅印,墨綬。 朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 江左公府長史無朝服,縣令止單衣幘。 宋後廢帝元徽四年,司徒右長史王儉議公府長史應服朝服。 曰:「春秋國語云:『貌者情之華,服者心之文。』 巖廊盛禮,衣冠為大。 是故軍國異容,內外殊序。 而自頃承用,每有乖違。 府職掌人,教四方是則。 臣居毗佐,志在當官,永言先典,載懷夕惕。 按晉令,公府長史,官品第六,銅印,墨綬,朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 掾、屬,官品第七,朝服,進賢一梁冠。 晉官表注,亦與令同。 而今長史、掾、屬,但著朱服而已,此則公違明文,積習成謬。 謂宜依舊制,長史兩梁冠,掾、屬一梁冠,並同備朝服。 中單韋舄,率由舊章。 若所上蒙允,并請班司徒二府及諸儀同三府,通為永準。 又尋舊事,司徒公府領步兵者職僚悉同降朝不領兵者。 主簿祭酒,中單韋舄並備,令史以下,唯著玄衣。 今府既開公,謹遵此制。 其或有署臺位者,玄服為疑。 按令稱諸有兼官,皆從重官之例。 尋內官為重,其署臺位者,悉宜著位之服,不在玄服之例。 若署諸卿寺位兼府職者,雖三品,而卿寺為卑,則宜依公府玄衣之制。 服章事重,禮儀所先,請臺詳服。」 儀曹郎中沈俁之議曰:「制珪象德,損替因時; 裁服象功,施用隨代。 車旗變於商、周,冠佩革於秦、漢,豈必殊代襲容,改尚沿物哉。 夫邊貂假幸侍之首,賤幘登尊極之顏,一適時用,便隆後制。 況朱裳以朝,緬傾百祀,韋舄不加,浩然惟舊。 服為定章,事成永則。 其儉之所秉,會非古訓。 青素相因,代有損益,何事棄盛宋之興法,追往晉之頹典。 變改空煩,謂不宜革。」 儉又上議曰:「自頃服章多闕,有違前準,近議依令文,被報不宜改革,又稱左丞劉議,『按令文,凡有朝服,今多闕亡。 然則文存服損,非唯鉉佐,用捨既久,即為舊章』。 如下旨。 伏尋皇宋受終,每因晉舊制,律令條章,同規在昔。 若事有宜,必合懲改,則當上關詔書,下由朝議,縣諸日月,垂則後昆。 豈得因外府之乖謬,以為盛宋之興典,用晉氏之律令,而謂其儀為頹法哉。 順違從失,非所望於高議; 申明舊典,何改革之可論。 又左丞引令史之闕服,以為鉉佐之明比。 夫名位不同,禮數異等,令史從省,或有權宜; 達官簡略,為失彌重。 又主簿、祭酒,備服於王庭,長史、掾、屬,朱衣以就列。 於是倫比,自成矛盾。 此而可忍,孰不可安。 將引令以遵舊,臺據失以為例,研詳符旨,良所未譬。 當官而行,何強之有,制令昭然,守以無貳。」 俁之又議:「雲火從物,沿損異儀,帝樂五殊,王禮三變,豈獨大宋造命,必咸仍於晉舊哉! 夫宗社疑文,庭廟闕典,或上降制書,下協朝議,何乃鉉府佐屬裳黻,稍改白虎之詔,斷宣室之疇咨乎。 又許令史之從省,咎達官之簡略。 律苟可遵,固無辨於貴賤; 規若必等,亦何關於權宜。 一用一舍,彌增其滯。 且佐非韋舄之職,吏本朝服之官,凡在班列,罔不如一,此蓋前令違而遂改,今制允而長用也。 爵異服殊,寧會矛盾之譬; 討論疑制,焉取強弱之辨。 府執既革之餘文,臺據永行之成典,良有期於無固,非所望於行迷。」 參詳並同儉,議遂寢。
Chief administrators of princely establishments, aides of ministers and metropolitan chiefs, and county magistrates at the thousand-bushel rank: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. In the Jiangzuo court, princely chief administrators had no court dress; county magistrates wore only single robes and kerchiefs. In the fourth year of Yuanhui under the deposed Emperor of Song, Wang Jian, Right Chief Administrator of the Excellency of Works, argued that princely chief administrators should wear court dress. He said: "The Discourses of the States says: 'Countenance is the bloom of emotion; dress is the script of the heart. In the solemn rites of the palace hall, cap and gown come first. Hence army and court differ in dress, and inner and outer offices in rank. Yet recent practice has often strayed from the rule. Princely establishments govern men and set the pattern for the realm. I stand at his side as aide; my aim is to discharge my office. I ever recall the ancient canon and keep vigilance at dusk in mind. The Jin ordinance ranks the princely chief administrator at grade six—bronze seal, black sash, court dress, and the two-ribbed worthy crown. Aides and staff officers, grade seven—court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. Jin official tables and their annotations agree with the ordinance. Today chief administrators, aides, and staff wear only scarlet robes—an open breach of written law, a long misuse hardened into error. I propose restoring the old rule: chief administrators the two-ribbed crown, aides and staff the one-ribbed crown, all fully equipped with court dress. Inner tunics and leather slippers, all as the old regulations prescribe. If approved, I ask that it be issued to both Works establishments and all honorary three-establishment offices as a permanent standard. Reviewing precedent, in the Works establishment the staff of offices commanding infantry matched those who attended court without commanding troops. Chief clerks and libationers were fully equipped with inner tunics and leather slippers; clerks below wore only dark robes. Now that the establishment is opened as a princely domain, I respectfully follow this rule. For those who also hold Secretariat posts, the dark robes raise a question. The ordinance says that all who hold concurrent posts follow the higher office. Inner-court offices outrank the rest; those with Secretariat posts should wear their Secretariat dress and not fall under the dark-robe rule. If they hold ministerial bureau posts alongside princely duties, though third rank, the bureau is lower—they should follow the princely establishment's dark-robe rule. Cap and insignia are weighty matters and ritual comes first—I ask the Secretariat to rule on dress." Shen Yizhi of the Bureau of Rites argued: "Regulations and jades embody virtue; additions and reductions follow the times; Garments shaped to embody merit are deployed as each age demands. Carriages and banners changed from Shang to Zhou; caps and ornaments were remade under Qin and Han—must every age inherit the same look and only swap what it reveres? Border marten tails stood in for attendants' foremost insignia; humble kerchiefs rose to the imperial brow—once suited to the moment, they at once became later institutions. Scarlet robes for court have spanned a hundred generations; to drop leather slippers would break what has long stood as custom. Dress is fixed statute; once settled it becomes everlasting law. What Jian urges does not match ancient teaching. Blue and green succeed one another; each age adjusts its own—why cast off Song's flourishing statutes to chase Jin's decayed canon? Change for change's sake is mere trouble; reform is unwarranted." Jian submitted again: "Lately dress and insignia have been widely neglected, contrary to former standards. A recent proposal followed the ordinance, but the reply was that reform was inappropriate. It also cited Assistant Director Liu: 'The ordinance text requires court dress for all who should have it, yet most now lack it. So the text survives while the dress is lost—not for aides alone; long disuse has itself become custom.' Such was the imperial reply. When Great Song received the mandate, it always followed Jin institutions; statutes and ordinances alike looked to the past. If change is warranted, it should go up in an edict and down through court debate, set beside sun and moon, and made a model for posterity. How can one outer establishment's lapse stand as Great Song's flourishing statute, or Jin ordinances be called decayed law? To follow error and abandon right is not what a high debate should aim at; to clarify the old canon—what case is there for reform? The Assistant Director also cited clerks' curtailed dress as a parallel for aides. Names and ranks differ; ritual grades differ. Clerks may be reduced by expedient; for high officers to be curtailed is a far graver lapse. Chief clerks and libationers were fully dressed for court, while chief administrators, aides, and staff took their places in scarlet robes. Set side by side by rank, the practice contradicts itself. If this can be tolerated, what cannot? To invoke the ordinance for the old rule, yet treat the office's lapse as precedent—having weighed the reply, I cannot fathom it. To do one's office—where is the compulsion? The ordinance is clear; keep it without second thought." Yizhi argued again: "Cloud and fire follow their objects; dress alters along the way. Imperial music has five forms; royal rites three changes—must Great Song, on receiving the mandate, cling wholly to Jin custom? When state altars or court rites lack clear text, edicts descend and court debate settles it—how can aides of the great establishment alter their robes and overturn an imperial ruling from the Hall of Brightness? He approves clerks' reduction yet faults high officers' simplification. If the statute can be followed, rank makes no difference; if the rule must be uniform, what has expedient to do with it? One rule applied, one waived—only deepens the deadlock. Aides are not officers of leather slippers; clerks are by nature court-dress officers. All in the ranks should match—here the old ordinance was breached and then changed; the present rule was approved and has long stood. Ranks differ and dress differs—how does that invite talk of contradiction? To debate doubtful regulations, why argue strong versus weak? The establishment cites revised leftover text; the office relies on long-standing settled canon—there is room to avoid rigidity; going astray is not what we seek." After joint review all sided with Jian; the proposal was shelved.
83
諸軍長史、諸卿尹丞、獄丞、太子保傅詹事丞、郡國太守相內史、丞、長史、諸縣署令長相、關谷長、王公侯諸署令、長、司理、治書、公主家僕,銅印,墨綬。 朝服,進賢一梁冠。 江左太子保傅卿尹詹事丞,皁朝服。 郡丞、縣令長,止單衣幘。
Army chief administrators, aides of ministers and metropolitan chiefs, prison aides, aides of the Heir Apparent's tutors and household administrators, commandery and state chancellors, chief administrators, aides, county magistrates, pass and valley chiefs, chiefs and magistrates of princely and marquisate offices, judicial officers, secretaries for punishment, and stewards of princesses' households: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. In the Jiangzuo court, tutors of the Heir Apparent, ministers, metropolitan chiefs, and household administrators' aides wore black court dress. Commandery aides and county magistrates and chiefs wore only single robes and kerchiefs.
84
公車司馬、太史、太醫、太官、御府、內省令、太子諸署令、僕、門大夫、陵令,銅印,墨綬。 朝服,進賢一梁冠。
The Masters of Carriages, Grand Astrologer, Grand Physician, Grand Provisioner, Imperial Wardrobe, Director of the Inner Quarters, chiefs of the Heir Apparent's offices, stewards, gate grandees, and tomb chiefs bore bronze seals and black sashes. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
85
太子率更、家令、僕,銅印,墨綬。 給五時朝服,進賢兩梁冠。
The Superintendent of the Heir Apparent's Chime Office, Household Administrator, and Steward: bronze seal, black sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
86
黃門諸署令、僕、長,銅印,墨綬。 四時朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Chiefs, stewards, and senior clerks of all Yellow Gate offices: bronze seal, black sash. Four-season court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
87
黃門宂從僕射監、太子寺人監,銅印,墨綬。 給四時朝服,武冠。
Supervisors of Yellow Gate supernumerary attendants and of the Heir Apparent's palace eunuchs: bronze seal, black sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
88
公府司馬、諸軍城門五營校尉司馬、護匈奴中郎將護羗戎夷蠻越烏丸戊己校尉長史、司馬,銅印,墨綬。 朝服,武冠。 江左公府司馬無朝服,餘止單衣幘。
Princely Masters of Carriages, colonels and commandants of gate armies and the five garrison camps, chief administrators and masters of carriages of the Protector of the Xiongnu and of the Protectors of the Qiang, Rong, Yi, Man, Yue, and Wuhuan and of the Garrison of Wuji, and army masters of carriages: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown. In the Jiangzuo court, princely Masters of Carriages had no court dress; the rest wore only single robes and kerchiefs.
89
廷尉正、監、平,銅印,墨綬。 給皁零辟朝服,法冠。
The Director, Supervisor, and Assessor of the Commandant of Justice: bronze seal, black sash. They received black lingbi court dress and the law crown.
90
王郡公侯郎中令、大農,銅印,青綬。 朝服,進賢兩梁冠。
Palace Attendant Directors and Grand Agriculturalists of kings, commanderies, dukes, and marquises: bronze seal, blue sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
91
北軍中候丞,銅印,黃綬。 朝服,進賢一梁冠。
The aide of the Commandant of the Northern Army: bronze seal, yellow sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
92
太子常從虎賁督、千人督、校督、司馬虎賁督,銅印,墨綬。 朝服,武冠。
Superintendents of the Heir Apparent's regular Tiger Garrison escort, thousand-man superintendents, company superintendents, and masters of carriages of Tiger Garrison superintendents: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
93
殿中將軍,銀章,青綬。 四時朝服,武冠。 宋末不復給章綬。
Palace generals: silver badge, blue sash. Four-season court dress and the martial crown. By the end of Song, badges and sashes were no longer issued to them.
94
水衡、典虞、牧官、典牧、材官、州郡國都尉、司馬,銅印,墨綬。 朝服,武冠。
Colonels and commandants of the Office of Waterways, Imperial Parks, Pasturage, Imperial Herds, and Materiel Officers, and of commandery and state commandants and masters of carriages: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
95
諸謁者,朝服,高山冠。
All ushers wore court dress and the high-mountain crown.
96
門下中書通事舍人令史、門下主事令史,給四時朝服,武冠。
Petition clerks of the Secretariat and Palace Secretariat and chief clerks of the Palace Gate received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
97
尚書典事、都水使者參事、散騎集書中書尚書令史、門下散騎中書尚書令史、錄尚書中書監令僕省事史、祕書著作治書、主書、主璽、主譜令史、蘭臺殿中蘭臺謁者都水使者令史、書令史,朝服,進賢一梁冠。 江左凡令史無朝服。
Record clerks of the Masters of Writing, aides of the Commissioner of Waterways, clerks of the Secretariat, Palace Secretariat, and Cavalier Attendant-in-Ordinary, clerks serving the Supervisor of Records and the Masters of Writing and Palace Secretariat, clerks for composition, punishment, seals, and genealogies, and clerks of the Orchid Terrace, its palace ushers, and the Commissioner of Waterways: court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. In the Jiangzuo court, record clerks were not issued court dress.
98
節騎郎,朝服,武冠。 其在陛列及備鹵簿,著鶡尾,絳紗縠單衣。
Cadets of the Imperial Insignia wore court dress and the martial crown. On the imperial staircase or in the guard of honor they wore crossbill plumes and scarlet gauze patterned single robes.
99
殿中中郎將校尉、都尉、黃門中郎將校尉、殿中太醫校尉、都尉,銀印,青綬。 四時朝服,武冠。
Colonels and commandants of Central Regulars of the Palace, Yellow Gate Regulars of the Palace, and Palace Grand Physicians: silver seal, blue sash. Four-season court dress and the martial crown.
100
關外侯,銀印,青綬。 朝服,進賢兩梁冠。
Marquises Outside the Passes: silver seal, blue sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
101
左右都候、閶闔司馬、城門候,銅印,墨綬。 朝服,武冠。
Left and Right Commandants of the Watch, Superintendents of the Imperial Gate, and gate wardens: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
102
王郡公侯中尉,銅印,墨綬。 朝服,武冠。
Commandants of kings, commanderies, dukes, and marquises: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
103
部曲督護、司馬史、部曲將,銅印。 朝服,武冠。 司馬史,假墨綬。
Supervisors and protectors of military households, masters of carriages and clerks, and household generals: bronze seal. Court dress and the martial crown. Masters-of-carriages clerks were granted black sashes provisionally.
104
太中中散諫議大夫、議郎、郎中、舍人,朝服,進賢一梁冠。 秩千石者,兩梁。
Grandees of Palace Counsel, Regular Palace Counselors, Masters of Discussion, Gentlemen, and Attendants wore court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. Those of the thousand-bushel rank wore the two-ribbed crown.
105
城門令史,朝服,武冠。 江左凡令史無朝服。
Record clerks of the gate wardens wore court dress and the martial crown. In the Jiangzuo court, record clerks were not issued court dress.
106
諸門僕射佐史、東宮門吏,皁零辟朝服。 僕射東宮門吏,卻非冠。 佐史,進賢冠。
Adjutants and clerks of all gate stewards and Eastern Palace gate officers wore black lingbi court dress. Stewards and Eastern Palace gate officers wore the rebuff-wrong crown. Adjutant clerks wore the worthy crown.
107
宮內游徼、亭長,皁零辟朝服,武冠。
Palace patrolmen and precinct chiefs wore black lingbi court dress and the martial crown.
108
太醫校尉、都尉、總章協律中郎將校尉、都尉,銀印,青綬。 朝服,武冠。
Colonels and commandants of the Grand Physician, the Director of the Office of the General Director, and the Director of Pitch Pipes and Harmonization: silver seal, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
109
小黃門,給四時朝服,武冠。
Junior Yellow Gate attendants received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
110
黃門謁者,給四時朝服,進賢一梁冠。 朝賀通謁時,著高山冠。
Yellow Gate ushers received four-season court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. At court audiences and when conveying petitions they wore the high-mountain crown.
111
黃門諸署史,給四時朝服,武冠。
Clerks of all Yellow Gate offices received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
112
中黃門黃門諸署從官寺人,給四時科單衣,武冠。
Central Yellow Gate attendants, supernumerary attendants of Yellow Gate offices, and palace eunuchs received four-season regulation single robes and the martial crown.
113
殿中司馬、及守陵者、殿中太醫司馬,銅印,墨綬。 給四時朝服,武冠。
Palace masters of carriages, tomb guards, and palace masters of carriages of the Grand Physician: bronze seal, black sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
114
太醫司馬,銅印。 朝服,武冠。
Masters of carriages of the Grand Physician: bronze seal. Court dress and the martial crown.
115
總章監鼓吹監司律司馬,銅印,墨綬。 朝服。 鼓吹監總章協律司馬,武冠。 總章監司律司馬,進賢一梁冠。
Supervisors of the General Director, of the Imperial Band, and masters of carriages of the Director of Pitch Pipes: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress. Supervisors of the Imperial Band and masters of carriages of the Director of Pitch Pipes and Harmonization wore the martial crown. Supervisors of the General Director and masters of carriages of the Director of Pitch Pipes wore the one-ribbed worthy crown.
116
諸縣署丞、太子諸署丞、王公侯諸署及公主家丞,銅印,黃綬。 朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Aides of county offices, of all the Heir Apparent's offices, and of princely, ducal, and marquisate offices and of princesses' households: bronze seal, yellow sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
117
太醫丞,銅印。 朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Aides of the Grand Physician: bronze seal. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
118
黃門諸署丞,銅印,黃綬。 給四時朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Aides of all Yellow Gate offices: bronze seal, yellow sash. They received four-season court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
119
黃門稱長、園監,銅印,黃綬。 給四時朝服,武冠。
Chiefs of Yellow Gate parks and park supervisors: bronze seal, yellow sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
120
諸縣尉、關谷塞護道尉,銅印,黃綬。 朝服,武冠。 江左止單衣幘。
County commandants and wardens of passes, valleys, and frontier barriers: bronze seal, yellow sash. Court dress and the martial crown. In the Jiangzuo court they wore only single robes and kerchiefs.
121
洛陽鄉有秩,銅印,青綬。 朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Petty officials of Luoyang townships: bronze seal, blue sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
122
宣威將軍以下至裨將軍,銅印。 朝服,武冠。 其以此官為刺史、郡守、若萬人司馬虎賁督以上、及司馬史者,皆假青綬。
From the Declare Authority General down to the Assistant General: bronze seal. Court dress and the martial crown. Those who held these posts as regional inspectors, commandery administrators, Tiger Garrison superintendents of ten-thousand-man units and above, or masters-of-carriages clerks all wore blue sashes provisionally.
123
平虜武猛中郎將、校尉、都尉,銀印。 朝服,武冠。 其以此官為千人司馬虎賁督以上、及司馬史者,皆假青綬。
Gentlemen-of-the-Interior, colonels, and commandants of Pacifying the Barbarians and Martial Fierce: silver seal. Court dress and the martial crown. Those who held these posts as Tiger Garrison superintendents of thousand-man units and above, or as masters-of-carriages clerks, all wore blue sashes provisionally.
124
別部司馬、軍假司馬,銀印。 朝服,武冠。
Separate-division masters of carriages and army provisional masters of carriages: silver seal. Court dress and the martial crown.
125
圖像都匠行水中郎將、校尉、都尉,銀印,青綬。 朝服,武冠。 若非以工伎巧能特加此官者,不加綬。 羽林郎、羽林長郎,佩武猛都尉以上印者,假青綬。 別部司馬以下,假墨綬。 朝服,武冠。 其長郎壯士,武弁冠。 在陛列及鹵簿,服絳縠單衣。
Gentlemen-of-the-Interior, colonels, and commandants of the Director of Iconography and Craftsmen and the Director of Waterways: silver seal, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown. Unless the post was specially conferred for craft skill and ingenuity, no sash was issued. Forest of Feathers cadets and senior cadets who bore seals of Martial Fierce commandants and above wore blue sashes provisionally. Below separate-division masters of carriages, black sashes were granted provisionally. Court dress and the martial crown. Their senior cadets and stalwart soldiers wore the martial-cap crown. On the imperial staircase and in the guard of honor they wore scarlet-patterned single robes.
126
陛下甲僕射主事吏將騎、廷上五牛旗假使虎賁,在陛列及備鹵簿,服錦文衣,武冠,鶡尾。 陛長,假銅印,墨綬。 旄頭。
Majordomos, chief clerks, chariot leaders, and cavalry of the Imperial Staircase A-Guard, and Tiger Garrison soldiers provisionally assigned to the Five-Ox Banner on the imperial terrace wore brocade-patterned robes, the martial crown, and crossbill plumes on the imperial staircase and in the guard of honor. Staircase chiefs wore bronze seals and black sashes granted provisionally. They wore maotou.
127
羽林在陛列及備鹵簿,服絳科單衣,上著韋畫要襦。 假旄頭。
When the Forest of Feathers stood on the imperial staircase or in the guard of honor, they wore scarlet regulation single robes with painted-leather waist-jackets over them. They were granted maotou provisionally.
128
舉輦跡禽前驅由基強弩司馬、守陵虎賁,佩武猛都尉以上印者,假青綬。 別部司馬以下,假墨綬。 守陵虎賁,給絳科單衣,武冠。
Masters of carriages of the palanquin-bearers, track-followers, bird-scouts, vanguard archers, and strong crossbowmen, and tomb-guard Tiger Garrison soldiers who bore seals of Martial Fierce commandants and above wore blue sashes provisionally. Below separate-division masters of carriages, black sashes were granted provisionally. Tomb-guard tiger guards received scarlet regulated single robes and the martial crown.
129
殿中宂從虎賁、殿中虎賁、及守陵者持鈒戟宂從虎賁,佩武猛都尉以下印者,假青綬。 別部司馬以下,假墨綬。 絳科單衣,武冠。
Supernumerary hall tiger guards, hall tiger guards, and tomb-guard supernumerary tiger guards bearing hooked halberds who wore seals below Martial-Fierce Commandant wore a provisional blue sash. Below detached-division marshal: provisional black sash. Scarlet regulated single robes and the martial crown.
130
持椎斧武騎虎賁、五騎傳詔虎賁、殿中羽林及守陵者太官尚食虎賁、稱飯宰人、諸宮尚食虎賁,佩武猛都尉以上印者,假青綬。 別部司馬以下,假墨綬。 給絳褠,武冠。 其在陛列及備鹵簿,五騎虎賁,服錦文衣,鶡尾。 宰人服離支衣。
Tiger guards bearing mace-axes as martial riders, Five-Horse edict-bearers, hall Forest Guards, tomb-guards of the Grand Provisioner's food service, food-presenting stewards, and palace food-service tiger guards who wore seals of Martial-Fierce Commandant or above wore a provisional blue sash. Below detached-division marshal: provisional black sash. They received scarlet jackets and the martial crown. On the imperial staircase or in the guard of honor, Five-Horse tiger guards wore brocade-pattern robes and crossbill plumes. Stewards wore lychee-pattern robes.
131
黃門鼓吹、及釘官僕射、黃門鼓吹史主事、諸官鼓吹、尚書廊下都坐門下守閤、殿中威儀騶、虎賁常直殿黃雲龍門者、門下左右部虎賁羽林騶、給傳事者諸導騶、門下中書守閤,給絳褠,武冠。 南書門下虎賁羽林騶、蘭臺五曹節藏射廊下守閤、威儀、發符騶、都水使者黃沙廊下守閤、謁者、錄事、威儀騶、河隄謁者騶、諸官謁者騶,絳褠,武冠。 給其衣服,自如故事。 大誰士皁科單衣,樊噲冠。 衞士墨布褠,却敵冠。 凡此前眾職,江左多不備,又多闕朝服。
Yellow Gate musicians, the Nail Office director, Yellow Gate musician clerks and chief clerks, all office musicians, Secretariat corridor attendants, Gate Office and Secretariat gatekeepers, hall protocol outriders, tiger guards regularly posted at the Yellow Cloud Dragon Gate, Gate Office left and right tiger-guard and Forest Guard outriders, guide-outriders for message-bearers, and Gate Office Secretariat gatekeepers received scarlet jackets and the martial crown. South Documents Gate Office tiger-guard and Forest Guard outriders, Orchid Terrace Five Offices seal-store corridor gatekeepers, protocol officers, tally-issuing outriders, Chief of Waters corridor gatekeepers at Yellow Sand, ushers, recorders, protocol outriders, Yellow River embankment usher outriders, and all office usher outriders wore scarlet jackets and the martial crown. Their garments were supplied according to precedent. Chief challenge-guards wore black regulated single robes and the Fan Kuai cap. Guardsmen wore black cloth jackets and the repelling-enemy cap. In general, for all these offices above, the Jiangzuo court often did not supply them, and court dress was frequently lacking.
132
諸應給朝服佩玉,而不在京都者給朝服,非護烏丸羌夷戎蠻諸校尉以上及刺史、西域戊己校尉,皆不給佩玉。 其來朝會,權時假給,會罷輸還。 凡應朝服者,而官不給,聽自具之。 諸假印綬而官不給鞶囊者,得自具作。 其但假印不假綬者,不得佩綬。
All who were due court dress with jade pendants but were not in the capital received court dress; except colonels who protected the Wuhuan, Qiang, Rong, Yi, and Man, colonels of that rank and above, inspectors, and the Garrison of Wuji Colonel in the Western Regions—none received jade pendants. When they came to court audiences, dress was loaned for the occasion and returned when the audience ended. All who were due court dress but whom the office did not supply might provide it themselves. Those who held provisional seals and sashes but received no pan pouch from the office might make one themselves. Those who received only a provisional seal and not a sash might not wear a sash.
133
鞶,古制也。 漢代著鞶囊者,側在腰間。 或謂之傍囊,或謂之綬囊。 然則以此囊盛綬也。 或盛或散,各有其時乎。
The pan pouch was an ancient institution. In Han those who wore pan pouches carried them at the side of the waist. Some called it the side pouch, some the sash pouch. Thus this pouch held the sash. Whether it held the sash or lay empty, each had its season, it seems.
134
朝服一具,冠幘各一,絳緋袍、皁緣中單衣領袖各一領,革帶袷袴各一,舄、袜各一量,簪導餉自副。 四時朝服者,加絳絹黃緋青緋皁緋袍單衣各一領; 五時朝服者,加給白絹袍單衣一領。
One set of court dress comprised one cap and one kerchief; one crimson robe and one black-bordered inner robe with collar and sleeves; one leather belt and one pair of lined trousers; one pair of shoes and socks; and hairpin, hair-guide, and ear-stops as accessories. Four-season court dress added one each of crimson silk, yellow, green, blue-green, and black unlined robes; Five-season court dress added one white silk unlined robe.
135
諸受朝服,單衣七丈二尺,科單衣及褠五丈二尺,中衣絹五丈,緣皁一丈八尺,領袖練一匹一尺,絹七尺五寸。 給袴練一丈四尺,縑二丈。 袜布三尺。 單衣及褠袷帶,縑各一段,長七尺。 江左止給絹各有差。 宋元嘉末,斷不復給,至今。 山鹿、豽、柱豽、白豽、施毛狐白領、黃豹、斑白鼲子、渠搜裘、步搖、八䥖、蔽結、多服蟬、明中、欋白,又諸織成衣帽、錦帳、純金銀器、雲母從廣一寸以上物者,皆為禁物。
Those who received court dress were allotted seven zhang two chi of cloth for the unlined robe; five zhang two chi for the regulated unlined robe and jacket; five zhang of silk for the inner robe; one zhang eight chi of black border; one bolt one chi of refined silk for collar and sleeves; and seven chi five cun of silk. Trousers were supplied with one zhang four chi of refined silk and two zhang of thin silk. Sock cloth: three chi. For the unlined robe and jacket lined belt, one section of thin silk each, seven chi long. East of the Yangzi only silk was granted, in differing amounts by rank. At the end of Yuanjia in Song and Yuan, the grant was cut off and has not resumed to the present. Mountain-deer fur, ferret-badger, pillar-ferret, white ferret-badger, fox fur with white collar, yellow leopard, spotted white sable, Qusou fur coats, swaying hairpins, eight-prong ornaments, covering-knots, multi-layer cicada ornaments, mingzhong, qubai, and all woven caps and robes, brocade curtains, pure gold and silver vessels, and mica pieces more than one cun wide were all forbidden luxuries.
136
諸在官品令第二品以上,其非禁物,皆得服之。 第三品以下,加不得服三䥖以上、蔽結、爵叉、假真珠翡翠校飾纓佩、雜采衣、杯文綺、齊繡黼、𨮹離、袿袍。 第六品以下,加不得服金䥖、綾、錦、錦繡、七緣綺、貂豽裘、金叉鐶鉺、及以金校飾器物、張絳帳。 第八品以下,加不得服羅、紈、綺、縠,雜色真文。 騎士卒百工人,加不得服大絳紫襈、假結、真珠璫珥、犀、瑇瑁、越疊、以銀飾器物、張帳、乘犢車,履色無過綠、青、白。 奴婢衣食客,加不得服白幘、蒨、絳、金黃銀叉、鐶、鈴、𨮹、鉺,履色無過純青。 諸去官及薨卒不祿物故,家人所服,皆得從故官之例。 諸王皆不得私作禁物,及罽碧校鞍,珠玉金銀錯刻鏤彫飾無用之物。
Officials of rank two and above in the office-rank ordinance might wear anything not on the forbidden list. Rank three and below were further barred from three-prong ornaments and above, covering-knots, noble-fork ornaments, false pearl and jadeite trappings on tassels and pendants, mixed-color garments, cup-pattern brocade, Qi embroidery with fu patterns, quli, and gui robes. Rank six and below were further barred from gold prongs, damask, brocade, brocade embroidery, seven-border gauze, sable and ferret-badger coats, gold fork-rings and ear-stops, gold-trimmed vessels, and crimson curtains. Rank eight and below were further barred from gauze, fine silk, patterned silk, regulated gauze, and mixed-color true patterns. Cavalry soldiers and artisans were further barred from great crimson and purple bordered robes, false knots, true pearl ear-pendants, rhinoceros horn, tortoise shell, Yue layered fabrics, silver-trimmed vessels, hanging curtains, calf carts, and shoe colors beyond green, blue, and white. Slaves, servants, and dependent clients were further barred from white kerchiefs, madder, crimson, gold, yellow, silver forks, rings, bells, quli, and ear-stops, and shoe colors beyond plain blue. When officials left office, died without salary, or perished, what their households might wear all followed the former office's rule. Princes might not privately make forbidden objects, saddles with felt and jade trappings, or useless things carved, inlaid, chased, and engraved in pearl, jade, gold, and silver.
137
天子坐漆牀,居朱屋。 史臣按左傳,丹桓宮之楹。 何休注公羊,亦有朱屋以居。 所從來久矣。 漆牀亦當是漢代舊儀,而漢儀不載。 尋所以必朱必漆者,其理有可言焉。 夫珍木嘉樹,其品非一,莫不植根深岨,致之未易。 藉地廣之資,因人多之力,則役苦費深,為敝滋重。 是以上古聖王,采椽不斵,斵之則懼刻桷彫楹,莫知其限也。 哲人縣鑑微遠,杜漸防萌,知采椽不愜後代之心,不斵不為將來之用,故加朱施漆,以傳厥後。 散木凡材,皆可入用。 遠探幽旨,將在斯乎。
The Son of Heaven sat on a lacquered couch and dwelt in a vermilion hall. The historian notes that the Zuo Commentary records reddening the pillars of Duke Huan's palace. He Xiu's commentary on the Gongyang also mentions dwelling in a vermilion hall. The practice is of long standing. The lacquered couch too must be old Han usage, yet the Han Rites do not record it. As for why it must be vermilion and lacquer, the reason can be stated. Rare timbers and fine trees come in many kinds; all root deep on high ground, and none is easy to obtain. With broad lands and many hands at work, toil grows bitter, expense runs deep, and waste grows ever heavier. Therefore the sage kings of high antiquity used undressed rafters; to dress them would invite carved corbels and painted pillars without limit. The wise fixed their mirror on what was minute and far off, checked the first sprout and barred the bud, knowing undressed rafters would not satisfy later ages and that not dressing them would leave nothing for the future—so they added vermilion and applied lacquer to hand the practice down to posterity. Common timber and ordinary wood can all be put to use. To probe the hidden intent from afar—is it not here?
138
殿屋之為圓淵方井兼植荷華者,以厭火祥也。
When hall buildings have round pools and square wells with lotus planted together, it is to quell fire omens.
139
古者貴賤皆執笏,其有事則搢之於腰帶,所謂搢紳之士者,搢笏而垂紳帶也。 紳垂三尺。 笏者有事則書之,故常簪筆,今之白筆,是其遺象。 三臺五省二品文官簪之。 王公侯伯子男卿尹及武官不簪。 加內侍位者,乃簪之。 手板,則古笏矣。 尚書令、僕射、尚書手板頭復有白筆,以紫皮裹之,名笏。 朝服肩上有紫生袷囊,綴之朝服外,俗呼曰紫荷。 或云漢代以盛奏事,負荷以行,未詳也。
In antiquity noble and base all held tablets; when there was business they tucked them in the belt—hence the girdled gentleman, who tucks his tablet and lets the sash hang. The sash hung three chi. The tablet was for writing when there was business; therefore a brush was always worn—today's white brush is its surviving trace. Civil officials of the Three Terraces and Five Ministries of rank two wore it. Kings, dukes, marquises, earls, viscounts, barons, ministers, prefects, and military officers did not wear it. Only those who added inner-attendant rank wore it. The hand board is the ancient tablet. The Director, Vice Director, and Directors of the Secretariat had white brushes again at the head of the hand board, wrapped in purple leather—this was called the tablet. Court dress had on the shoulder a purple raw lined pouch stitched outside the robe; vulgarly called the purple lotus. Some say in Han it held memorials, carried on the back when walking—the point is not clear.
140
魏文帝黃初三年,詔賜漢太尉楊彪几杖,待以客禮。 延請之日,使挾杖入朝。 又令著鹿皮冠。 彪辭讓,不聽。 乃使服布單衣皮弁以見。 傅玄子曰:「漢末王公名士,多委王服,以幅巾為雅。 是以袁紹、崔鈞之徒,雖為將帥,皆著㡘巾。」 魏武以天下凶荒,資財乏匱,擬古皮弁,裁縑帛以為𢂿,合乎簡易隨時之義,以色別其貴賤。 本施軍飾,非為國容也。 徐爰曰:「俗說𢂿本未有歧,荀文若巾之,行觸樹枝成歧,謂之為善,因而弗改。」 通以為慶弔服。 巾以葛為之,形如𢂿,而橫著之,古尊卑共服也。 故漢末妖賊以黃為巾,時謂之「黃巾賊」。 今國子太學生冠之,服單衣以為朝服,執一卷經以代手板。 居士野人,皆服巾焉。
In the third year of Huangchu, Emperor Wen of Wei decreed that Han Grand Commandant Yang Biao receive armrest and staff and be treated with guest ritual. On the day he was invited, he was made to enter court leaning on the staff. He was also ordered to wear a deerskin cap. Biao declined and remonstrated; the emperor would not listen. He was then made to appear in a cloth single robe and skin cap. Fu Xuan's son said: "At the end of Han, kings, dukes, and famous gentlemen mostly set aside royal dress and took the wide kerchief as refined. Therefore Yuan Shao, Cui Jun, and the like, though generals and commanders, all wore folded kerchiefs." Emperor Wu of Wei, because the realm knew famine and ruin and goods ran scarce, modeled the ancient skin cap and cut thin silk to make the ze, fitting simplicity suited to the time and using color to distinguish noble and base. Originally it was military adornment, not state ceremonial dress. Xu Ai said: "Popular lore says the ze originally had no fork; Xun Wenruo wore it, and walking he struck a branch and made a fork, which was called auspicious, and therefore was not changed." In general it was taken as congratulation and mourning dress. The kerchief was made of kudzu, shaped like the ze but worn crosswise; ancient noble and base wore it alike. Therefore at the end of Han rebel bandits used yellow for kerchiefs, and the age called them "Yellow Turban bandits." Today National University students wear it, take the single robe as court dress, and hold one scroll of classics in place of the hand board. Retired gentlemen and rustics all wear the kerchief.
141
徐爰曰:「帽名猶冠也。 義取於蒙覆其首。 其本纚也。 古者有冠無幘,冠下有纚,以繒為之。 後世施幘於冠,因裁纚為帽。 自乘輿宴居,下至庶人無爵者,皆服之。」 史臣案晉成帝咸和九年制,聽尚書八座丞郎、門下三省侍郎乘車白帢低幘出入掖門。 又二宮直官著烏紗𢂿。 然則士人宴居,皆著帢矣。 而江左時野人已著帽,士人亦往往而然,但其頂圓耳。 後乃高其屋云。
Xu Ai said: "The cap's name is like the crown. The meaning is taken from covering the head. Its origin is the tassel. In antiquity there were crowns without kerchiefs; below the crown was a tassel made of silk. Later generations put kerchiefs on the crown and cut the tassel into a cap. From the imperial carriage at leisure down to commoners without rank, all wore it. The historian notes that in the ninth year of Xianhe of Emperor Cheng of Jin it was decreed that Directors of the Eight Seats and Secretariat, and Gate Office Three Departments vice-directors, might ride in carriages with white kerchief and low kerchief when entering and leaving the side gates. Direct officials of the Two Palaces also wore black silk ze. Thus gentlemen at leisure all wore kerchiefs. Yet in the Jiangzuo age rustics already wore caps, and gentlemen often did so too, but the crown was round. Later they raised the crown, it is said.
142
古者人君有朝服,有祭服,有宴服,有弔服。 弔服皮弁疑衰,今以單衣黑幘為宴會服,拜陵亦如之。 以單衣白裌為弔服,修敬尊秩亦服之也。 單衣,古之深衣也。 今單衣裁製與深衣同,唯絹帶為異。 深衣絹帽以居喪。 單衣素帢以施吉。
In antiquity the ruler had court dress, sacrificial dress, feast dress, and mourning dress. Mourning dress was skin cap and suspected hemp; today single robe and black kerchief serve as feast dress, and tomb-visits are the same. Single robe with white lining serves as mourning dress; for showing respect in rank it is also worn. The single robe is the ancient deep robe. Today's single robe is cut like the deep robe, differing only in the silk belt. The deep robe used silk cap in dwelling for mourning. The single robe used plain kerchief for auspicious occasions.
143
晉武帝泰始三年,詔太宰安平王孚服侍中之服,賜大司馬義陽王望袞冕之服。 四年,又詔趙、樂安、燕王服散騎常侍之服。 十年,賜彭城王袞冕之服。
In the third year of Taishi of Emperor Wu of Jin, an edict granted Grand Preceptor Prince Fu of Ping'an the dress of Attendant-in-Ordinary, and granted Grand Marshal Prince Wang of Yiyang the robe and coronet of highest honor. In the fourth year, another edict required the kings of Zhao, Le'an, and Yan to adopt the dress of a Regular Attendant of the Rapid Cavalry. In the tenth year, the Prince of Pengcheng received the highest ceremonial robe and coronet.
144
偽楚桓玄將篡,亦加安帝母弟太宰琅邪王袞冕服。
As the usurper Huan Xuan of false Chu prepared to seize the throne, he likewise invested the Grand Preceptor, the Langye King and younger brother of Emperor An's mother, with gun-and-mian dress.
145
宋興以來,王公貴臣加侍中、散騎常侍,乃得服貂璫也。
Since the founding of Song, only when princes and great ministers received the added titles of Attendant-in-Ordinary or Regular Attendant of the Rapid Cavalry might they wear sable fur and ornamental pendants.
146
宋孝武孝建元年,丞相南郡王義宣,二年,雍州刺史武昌王渾,又有異圖。 世祖嫌侯王強盛,欲加減削。 其年十月己未,大司馬江夏王義恭、驃騎大將軍竟陵王誕表改革諸王車服制度,凡九條,表在義恭傳。 上因諷有司更增廣條目。 奏曰:「車服以庸,虞書茂典; 名器慎假,春秋明誡。 是以尚方所制,禁嚴漢律,諸侯竊服,雖親必罪。 自頃以來,下僭彌盛。 器服裝飾,樂舞音容,通於王公,達于眾庶。 上下無辨,民志靡一。 今表之所陳,實允禮度。 九條之格,猶有未盡,謹共附益,凡二十四條。 聽事不得南向坐,施帳并𢃕。 蕃國官正冬不得跣登國殿,及夾侍國師傳令及油戟。 公主王妃傳令,不得朱服。 輿不得重杠。 鄣扇不得雉尾。 劍不得鹿盧形。 槊毦不得孔雀白鷩。 夾轂隊不得絳襖。 平乘誕馬不得過二匹。 胡伎不得綵衣。 舞伎正冬著袿衣,不得莊面蔽花。 正冬會不得鐸舞、杯柈舞。 長蹻伎、䞬舒、丸劍、博山伎、緣大橦伎、升五案伎,自非正冬會奏舞曲,不得舞。 諸妃主不得著袞帶。 信幡,非臺省官悉用絳。 郡縣內史相及封內官長,於其封君,既非在三,罷官則不復追敬,不合稱臣,正宜上下官敬而已。 諸鎮常行,車前後不得過六隊,白直夾轂,不在其限。 刀不得過銀銅為裝。 諸王女封縣主、諸王子孫襲封王王之妃及封侯者夫人行,並不得鹵簿。 諸王子繼體為王者,婚葬吉凶,悉依諸國公侯之禮,不得同皇弟皇子。 車輿不得油幢,軺車不在其限。 平乘舫皆平兩頭作露平形,不得擬像龍舟,悉不得朱油。 帳𨪋不得作五花及豎筍形。 若先有器物者,悉輸送臺臧。 書到後二十日期,若有竊玩犯禁者,及統司無舉糾,並臨時議罪。」 詔可。
In the first year of Xiaojian under Emperor Xiaowu of Song, Chancellor Prince of Nanjun Yixuan rebelled; in the second year, Inspector of Yongzhou Prince of Wuchang Hun likewise harbored treasonous designs. Emperor Xiaowu, posthumously Shizu, resented the power of the feudatory princes and sought to cut it back. On jiwei day in the tenth month of that year, Grand Marshal Prince of Jiangxia Yigong and Rapid Cavalry General Prince of Jingling Dan submitted a memorial reforming princely carriage and dress, nine articles in all, recorded in Yigong's biography. The emperor then prompted the responsible offices, by pointed allusion, to broaden the regulations further. The memorial read: "Carriages and dress mark merit—this is the august canon in the Documents of Yu; titles and regalia must be granted with caution—the Spring and Autumn Annals state the warning plainly. What the Imperial Workshop fashions is strictly barred by Han law: if a feudatory lord steals such insignia, kinship itself will not spare him from punishment. In recent years the usurpation of rank from below has grown ever worse. Vessels, dress, ornament, music, dance, voice, and bearing now match those of princes and reach down to commoners. High and low are no longer distinguished, and public order loses its single standard. What this memorial proposes truly accords with ritual propriety. Though the nine-article code still has gaps, we respectfully add provisions until there are twenty-four articles in all. In the hall of business one may not sit facing south, nor deploy canopy curtains and screens. Feudatory officials at the winter court may not ascend the state hall barefoot, nor be flanked by state masters relaying orders or by oil-painted halberds. When princesses or princes' consorts relay orders, they may not wear vermilion dress. Carriages may not have double crossbars. Barrier fans may not bear pheasant-tail plumes. Swords may not have the curved "stag-path" hilt. Yak-tail ornaments on spear shafts may not use peacock or white-pheasant feathers. Squads flanking the carriage hub may not wear crimson jackets. Horses leading a ping-type light carriage may not exceed two. Hu performers may not wear colored robes. At the winter court, dancing girls may wear gui robes but may not wear elaborate face paint and floral veils. At the winter assembly, bell dance and cup-and-plate dance are forbidden. Long-stilt performers, Zhusu, ball-and-sword, Mount Bo, great-pole, and five-table ascent performers may not dance except at a formal winter assembly playing dance music. Consorts and princesses may not wear gun sashes. Trust banners: except for metropolitan offices, all must use crimson. Prefects, magistrates, and chief officials within a fief toward their enfeoffed lord: once they are no longer in the three bonds of service and have left office, they need not resume full obeisance or call themselves his subjects—only the courtesy between superior and subordinate officials is fitting. When feudatory princes travel on routine business, escort squads before and after the carriage may not exceed six; white-guard hub-flankers are exempt from this limit. Knives may not be mounted in materials beyond silver and copper. District ladies who are princes' daughters, consorts of princes' heirs who succeed as kings, and wives of enfeoffed marquises on formal progress may none of them use a guard of honor. When a prince's son succeeds as king, weddings, funerals, and omens follow the rites of feudatory dukes and marquises only, not those of imperial younger brothers or sons. Carriages may not use oiled banners; light post carriages are excepted. Ping-type boats and light carriages must have flat exposed ends, may not imitate dragon boats, and may not use vermilion lacquer. Palanquin valances may not be made in five-colored patterns or upright bamboo-shoot shapes. Objects already in violation must be surrendered to the imperial storehouse. Within twenty days of the document's arrival, anyone who keeps forbidden items or violates the ban, and any supervising office that fails to report it, will be punished as the case requires. The edict approved.
147
車前五百者,卿行旅從,五百人為一旅。 漢氏一統,故去其人,留其名也。
"Five hundred before the carriage" refers to a minister's traveling escort: five hundred men formed one brigade. After Han unified the realm, the men were removed but the name was kept.
148
宋孝武孝建二年十一月乙巳,有司奏:「侍中祭酒何偃議:『自今臨軒,乘輿法服,燾華蓋,登殿宜依廟齋以夾御,侍中、常侍夾扶上殿,及應為王公興,又夾扶,畢,還本位。』 求詳議。」 曹郎中徐爰參議:「宜如省所稱,以為永准。」 詔可。
On yisi day in the eleventh month of the second year of Xiaojian under Emperor Xiaowu of Song, the relevant offices memorialized: "Attendant-in-Ordinary and Libationer He Yan proposed: 'Henceforth, when the emperor faces the throne hall in statutory dress, with the flaming canopy, mounting the hall should follow temple fasting practice: attendants flank the carriage; Attendants-in-Ordinary and Regular Attendants flank and support him up the hall; when it is necessary to rise for princes and dukes, they flank and support again; when finished, they return to their posts. We request detailed deliberation." Bureau Director Xu Ai offered a joint opinion: "The ministry's proposal should be adopted as the permanent standard." The edict approved.
149
孝建三年五月壬戌,有司奏:「案漢胡廣、蔡邕並云古者諸侯貳車九乘,秦滅六國,兼其車服,故王者大駕屬車八十一乘。 尚書、御史乘之。 最後一車,懸豹尾。 法駕則三十六乘。 檢晉江左逮至于今,乘輿出行,副車相承五乘。」 尚書令建平王宏參議:「八十一乘,義兼九國,三十六乘無所准,並不出經典。 自邕、廣傳說,又是從官所乘,非帝者副車正數。 江左五乘,儉不中禮。 案周官云:『上公九命,貳車九乘。 侯伯七命,車七乘。 子男五命,車五乘。』 然則帝王十二乘。」 詔可。
On renxu day in the fifth month of the third year of Xiaojian, the relevant offices memorialized: "Hu Guang and Cai Yong of Han both state that in antiquity feudatory lords had nine secondary carriages; when Qin extinguished the six states it absorbed their carriages and dress, so the king's great procession had eighty-one escort carriages. Directors of the Masters of Writing and the Imperial Secretary rode in them. The last carriage bore a suspended leopard tail. The statutory guard had thirty-six carriages. Examining Jin east of the Yangzi down to the present, when the imperial carriage travels, five escort carriages follow in succession." Director of the Masters of Writing Prince Hong of Pingping offered a joint opinion: "Eighty-one carriages symbolize the nine states; thirty-six have no classical basis—neither appears in the canon. From Yong and Guang onward it is transmitted lore; moreover, what Directors of Writing and the Imperial Secretary ride are follow-official carriages, not the emperor's proper escort count. Jiangzuo's five carriages are too austere and fall short of ritual. The Offices of Zhou states: 'The highest duke has nine orders and nine secondary carriages. Marquises and earls have seven orders and seven carriages. Viscounts and barons have five orders and five carriages.' Therefore the Son of Heaven and king should have twelve carriages." The edict approved.
150
大明元年九月丁未朔,有司奏:「未有皇太后出行副車定數,下禮官議正。」 博士王燮之議:「周禮,后六服五路之數,悉與王同,則副車之制,不應獨異。 又記云:『古者后立六宮、三夫人、九嬪、二十七世婦、八十一御妻,以聽天下之內治。』 『天子立六官、三公、九卿、二十七大夫、八十一元士,以聽天下之外治。』 鄭注云:『后象王立六宮而居之,亦正寢一,燕寢五。』 推所立每與王同,禮無降亦明矣。 皇太后既禮均至極,彌不應殊。 謂並應同十二乘。」 通關為允。 詔可。
On dingwei, the first day of the ninth month of the first year of Daming, the relevant offices memorialized: "No fixed number of escort carriages has been set for the Empress Dowager's travel; let the ritual offices deliberate and establish one." Erudite Wang Xiezhi offered an opinion: "In the Offices of Zhou, the queen's six robes and five carriages match the king's numbers; the escort-carriage rule should not stand apart. The Record also says: 'In antiquity the queen established six palaces, three consorts, nine concubines, twenty-seven world-wives, and eighty-one chief wives to govern inner affairs of the realm.' 'The Son of Heaven established six offices, three dukes, nine ministers, twenty-seven grandees, and eighty-one chief scholars to govern outer affairs of the realm.' Zheng's commentary says: 'The queen mirrors the king in establishing six palaces to dwell in, likewise one main chamber and five inner chambers.' What is established in each case matches the king; that ritual admits no lowering is clear. The Empress Dowager, equal in ritual to the utmost degree, should differ even less. We hold that she should likewise have twelve carriages." Passed through review as acceptable. The edict approved.
151
大明四年正月戊辰,尚書左丞荀萬秋奏:「籍田儀注,『皇帝冠通天冠,朱紘,青介幘,衣青紗袍。 侍中陪乘,奉車郎秉轡。』 案漢輿服志曰:『通天冠,乘輿常服也。』 若斯豈可以常服降千畝邪? 禮記曰:『昔者天子為籍千畝,冕而朱紘,躬秉耒耜。』 鄭玄注周官司服曰:『六服同冕』,尊故也。 時服雖變,冕制不改。 又潘岳籍田賦云:『常伯陪乘,太僕秉轡。』 推此,輿駕籍田,宜冠冕,璪十二旒,朱紘,黑介幘,衣青紗袍。 常伯陪乘,太僕秉轡。 宜改儀注,一遵二禮以為定儀。」 詔可。
On wuchen day in the first month of the fourth year of Daming, Left Director of the Masters of Writing Xun Wanqiu memorialized: "The plowing-field regulations state: 'The emperor wears the Heaven-Penetrating Crown, vermilion tassel-cord, green kerchief, and green gauze robe. The Attendant-in-Ordinary rides as companion; the Director of the Imperial Carriage holds the reins.' The Han Treatise on Carriages and Dress says: 'The Heaven-Penetrating Crown is the imperial carriage's ordinary dress.' How can ordinary dress be used to descend to the thousand-mu field? The Record of Rites says: 'In former times the Son of Heaven plowed the thousand-mu field in coronet and vermilion tassel-cord, personally holding plow and hoe.' Zheng Xuan's commentary on the Offices of Zhou, Director of Dress, says: 'The six robes share the coronet'—from respect. Though seasonal dress changes, the coronet system does not. Pan Yue's Rhapsody on the Plowing Field also says: 'The Chief Minister rides as companion; the Grand Master of the Imperial Carriage holds the reins.' Inferring from this, for the plowing field the emperor should wear coronet with twelve jade beads, vermilion tassel-cord, black kerchief, and green gauze robe. The Chief Minister should ride as companion; the Grand Master of the Imperial Carriage should hold the reins. The ceremonial regulations should be revised to follow both rites as the fixed ceremony." The edict approved.
152
大明四年正月己卯,有司奏:「南郊親奉儀注,皇帝初著平天冠,火龍黼黻之服。 還,變通天冠,絳紗袍。 廟祠親奉,舊儀,皇帝初服與郊不異,而還變著黑介幘,單衣即事,乖體。 謂宜同郊還,亦變著通天冠,絳紗袍。 又舊儀乘金根車。 今五路既備,依禮玉路以祀,亦宜改金根車為玉路。」 詔可。
On jimao day in the first month of the fourth year of Daming, the relevant offices memorialized: "For the southern suburb, when the emperor personally presents offerings, the regulations state that he first wears the Level-Heaven Crown and robes with fire dragon and fu-fu patterns. On returning, he changes to the Heaven-Penetrating Crown and crimson gauze robe. For temple sacrifice when the emperor personally presents offerings, the old regulations matched the suburb for the initial dress, but on returning he changed to black kerchief and single robe for the service—contrary to proper form. We hold that on returning from the temple he should likewise change to the Heaven-Penetrating Crown and crimson gauze robe. The old regulations also used the golden-root carriage. Now that the five carriages are complete, ritual requires the jade carriage for sacrifice; the golden-root carriage should be changed to the jade carriage." The edict approved.
153
大明六年八月壬戌,有司奏:「漢儀注『大駕鹵簿,公卿奉引,大將軍參乘,太僕卿御。 法駕,侍中參乘,奉車郎御』。 晉氏江左,大駕未立,故郊祀用法駕,宗廟以小駕。 至於儀服,二駕不異。 拜陵,御服單衣幘,百官陪從,朱衣而已,亦謂之小駕,名實乖舛。 考尋前記,大駕上陵,北郊。 周禮宗廟於昊天有降,宜以大駕郊祀,法駕祠廟,小駕上陵,如為從序。 今改祠廟為法駕鹵簿,其軍幢多少,臨時配之。 至尊乘玉路,以金路象路革路木路小輦輪御軺衣書等車為副。 其餘並如常儀。」 詔可。
On renxu day in the eighth month of the sixth year of Daming, the relevant offices memorialized: "The Han ceremonial regulations state: 'Great guard of honor: dukes and ministers lead the way, the Grand General rides as companion, the Director of the Imperial Carriage drives. Statutory guard: the Attendant-in-Ordinary rides as companion, the Director of the Imperial Carriage drives.' Under Jin east of the Yangzi the great guard was not established, so suburban sacrifice used the statutory guard and the ancestral temple the small guard. As for ceremonial dress, the two guards did not differ. For tomb-visits, the emperor wore single robe and kerchief while accompanying officials wore only vermilion robes—also called the small guard; the name and reality were at odds. Earlier records show the great guard used for mounting tombs and the northern suburb. The Offices of Zhou show the ancestral temple descending from August Heaven; the great guard should serve suburban sacrifice, the statutory guard temple sacrifice, and the small guard tomb-visits—thus following proper order. Temple sacrifice is now changed to the statutory guard of honor; the number of military banners will be assigned as needed. His Majesty rides the jade carriage, with golden, elephant, leather, and wooden carriages, small palanquins, wheel carriages, imperial light carriages, robe carriages, book carriages, and the like as escorts. All else follows the usual regulations." The edict approved.
154
大明七年二月甲寅,輿駕巡南豫、兗二州,冕服,御玉路,辭二廟。 改服通天冠,御木路,建大麾,備春蒐之典。
On jiayin day in the second month of the seventh year of Daming, the emperor toured Southern Yu and Yan provinces in full ceremonial dress, riding the jade carriage and taking leave of the two ancestral temples. He then changed to the Heaven-Penetrating Crown, took the wood carriage, raised the great standard, and carried out the spring hunt rites.
155
明帝泰始四年五月甲戌,尚書令建安王休仁參議:「天子之子,與士齒讓,達於辟雍,無生而貴者也。 既命而尊,禮同上公。 周制五等,車服相涉,公降王者,一等而已。 王以金路賜同姓諸侯,象及革木,以賜異姓侯伯,在朝卿士,亦準斯禮。 按如此制,則東宮應乘金路。 自晉武過江,禮儀疏舛,王公以下,車服卑雜; 唯有東宮,禮秩崇異,上次辰極,下絕侯王。 而皇太子乘石山安車,義不見經,事無所出。 禮所謂金、玉路者,正以金玉飾輅諸末耳。 左右前後,同以漆畫。 秦改周輅,制為金根,通以金薄,周匝四面。 漢、魏、二晉,因循莫改。 逮于大明,始備五輅。 金玉二制,並類金根,造次瞻覩,殆無差別。 若錫之東儲,於禮嫌重,非所以崇峻陛級,表示等威。 且春秋之義,降下以兩,臣子之義,宜從謙約。 謂東宮車服,宜降天子二等,驂駕四馬,乘象輅,降龍碧旂九葉。 進不斥尊,退不逼下,沿古酌時,於禮為衷。」 詔可。 泰始四年八月甲寅,詔曰:「車服之飾,象數是遵。 故盛皇留範,列聖垂制。 朕近改定五路,酌古代今,修成六服,沿時變禮。 所施之事,各有條敍。 便可付外,載之典章。 朕以大冕純玉繅,玄衣黃裳,乘玉輅,郊祀天,宗祀明堂。 又以法冕五綵繅,玄衣絳裳,乘金路,祀太廟,元正大會諸侯。 又以飾冠冕四綵繅,紫衣紅裳,乘象輅,小會宴饗,餞送諸侯,臨軒會王公。 又以繡冕三綵繅,朱衣裳,乘革路,征伐不賓,講武校獵。 又以紘冕二綵繅,青衣裳,乘木輅,耕稼,饗國子。 又以通天冠,朱紗袍,為聽政之服。」
On jiaxu day in the fifth month of the fourth year of Taishi, Director of the Masters of Writing Prince Xiu Ren of Jian'an submitted a joint opinion: "A son of Heaven yields in rank to gentlemen; at the Imperial Academy no one is born to privilege. Once invested he is honored, and his ritual standing matches the highest duke. Under Zhou's five ranks, carriage and dress were graded together: a duke stood only one step below the king. The king granted the golden carriage to same-surname feudal lords and ivory, leather, or wood carriages to lords of other surnames; ministers at court followed the same rule. On that rule the Eastern Palace ought to ride the golden carriage. After Emperor Wu of Jin crossed the Yangzi, ritual grew careless; from kings and dukes down, carriage and dress were debased and confused; only the Eastern Palace remained exalted, second to the throne yet far above every feudal lord. Yet the crown prince rode the stone-mountain comfort carriage, a usage found in no classic and without any textual warrant. In ritual, "golden" and "jade" carriages mean only that gold and jade ornament the carriage's extremities. Left, right, front, and rear were all lacquered and painted alike. Qin reworked Zhou carriages into the golden-root type, sheathing all four sides in gold leaf. Han, Wei, and the two Jin dynasties followed suit without change. Not until the Daming era were the five carriages fully provided. The golden and jade types both resembled the golden-root carriage; at a glance they were nearly indistinguishable. To grant them to the heir apparent would be ritually excessive and would not heighten the throne or display proper gradations of majesty. Moreover the Spring and Autumn Annals teach lowering rank by two degrees, and subjects ought to observe modest restraint. The Eastern Palace's carriage and dress should stand two grades below the emperor: a four-horse team, the ivory carriage, and a nine-leaf jasper-green banner with descending dragons. It neither challenges the sovereign nor presses upon inferiors—anchored in antiquity yet tuned to the times, the proper balance of ritual. The edict approved. On jiayin day in the eighth month of the fourth year of Taishi, an edict read: "Carriage and dress ornamentation must follow symbolic numbers. Great emperors left models; successive sages handed down regulations. We have lately revised the five carriages, weighing antiquity against the present, completed the six robes, and adapted ritual to the age. Each occasion they serve has its own ordered provisions. Issue this abroad and record it in the canonical statutes. For suburban sacrifice to Heaven and joint sacrifice at the Bright Hall we wear the great mian with pure jade tassels, black upper robe and yellow lower robe, and ride the jade carriage. For sacrifice at the Grand Temple and the New Year's assembly of feudal lords we wear the statutory mian with five-color tassels, black upper robe and crimson lower robe, and ride the golden carriage. For minor assemblies and banquets, farewells to feudal lords, and audiences with kings and dukes before the throne we wear the adorned ceremonial crown with four-color tassels, purple upper robe and red lower robe, and ride the ivory carriage. For campaigns against recalcitrant lords, military reviews, and hunts we wear the embroidered mian with three-color tassels and vermilion robes and ride the leather carriage. For plowing the sacred field and feasting National University students we wear the hong mian with two-color tassels, green robes, and the wood carriage. The Heaven-Penetrating Crown and vermilion gauze robe serve as dress for conducting government."
156
泰始六年正月戊辰,有司奏:「被敕皇太子正冬朝賀,合著袞冕九章衣不?」 儀曹郎丘仲起議:「案周禮,公自袞冕以下。 鄭注:『袞冕以至卿大夫之玄冕,皆其朝聘天子之服也。』 伏尋古之上公,尚得服袞以朝。 皇太子以儲副之尊,率土瞻仰。 愚謂宜式遵盛典,服袞冕九旒以朝賀。」 兼左丞陸澄議:「服冕以朝,實著經典。 秦除六冕之制,至漢明帝始與諸儒還備古章。 自魏、晉以來,宗廟行禮之外,不欲令臣下服袞冕,故位公者,每加侍官。 今皇太子承乾作副,禮絕羣后,宜遵聖王之盛典,革近代之陋制。 臣等參議,依禮,皇太子元正朝賀,應服袞冕九章衣。 以仲起議為允。 撰載儀注。」 詔可。
On wuchen day in the first month of the sixth year of Taishi, the relevant offices memorialized: "By imperial order: should the crown prince wear gun-and-mian with the nine-emblem robe for the midwinter court congratulation?" Clerk of the Bureau of Rites Qiu Zhongqi argued: "The Offices of Zhou place dukes at gun-and-mian and below. Zheng Xuan comments: 'From gun-and-mian down to the dark mian of ministers and grandees—all are robes for audience and visiting the Son of Heaven.' Respectfully examining antiquity, even the highest duke of old could wear gun at court. As heir apparent, the crown prince is looked to by all within the realm. I hold that he should follow the great precedent and wear gun-and-mian with nine tassels for the congratulatory audience. Associate Left Director Lu Cheng argued: "Wearing the mian at court is expressly set out in the classics. Qin abolished the six crowns; only under Emperor Ming of Han did the court, with the ru scholars, restore the ancient wardrobe. From Wei and Jin onward, outside ancestral-temple rites the court kept subjects from gun-and-mian; hence men of ducal rank were repeatedly given attendant offices instead. Now the crown prince holds Heaven's deputy station, standing above all consorts; he should follow the sage kings' great precedent and cast off the shabby rules of recent times. We jointly submit that, by ritual, the crown prince at the New Year's congratulatory audience should wear gun-and-mian with the nine-emblem robe. Qiu Zhongqi's opinion is adopted. Compile and record it in the ceremonial regulations. The edict approved.
157
後廢帝即位,尊所生陳貴妃為皇太妃,輿服一如晉孝武太妃故事。 唯省五牛旗及赤旂。
When Emperor Fei took the throne, he honored his birth mother, Consort Chen, as Imperial Grand Consort; her carriage and dress followed the precedent of Emperor Xiaowu of Jin's grand consort. Only the Five-Ox Banner and the crimson banner were omitted.