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卷十八 志第八 禮五

Volume 18 Treatises 8: Rituals 5

Chapter 18 of 宋書 · Book of Song
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1
}} 輿
After Qin suppressed the study of ritual, government practice often broke with ancient precedent. Early Han prized austerity and undertook no sweeping reforms, so carriage and dress protocol largely preserved Qin custom. Not until Emperor Ming did the court begin restoring the old canon, which Sima Biao's Treatise on Carriages and Dress describes at length. Under Wei the court chiefly rebuilt the south-pointing carriage; other rules shifted only slightly and did not amount to a real break with tradition. Jin codified dress regulations, sorted out the full range of ceremony, and Xu Guang's notes on carriages and dress sketched the main categories—rules that still govern practice today. The present account therefore rehearses them in sequence so that the ceremonial usage of successive dynasties may be understood together.
2
輿 便 輿 輿宿
Ancient sages, watching thistle-down spin in the wind, fashioned wheels; once wheels could roll and bear weight, the carriage followed. It could carry heavy loads over long distances, extending human reach without end. Later sages took the square handle, curved ladle, and Dragon's Horn of the Northern Dipper as the model for the Imperial Carriage and bent the shafts for easier driving. The Genealogical Annals states, "Xi Zhong was the first to make the carriage." Yet Fuxi had already drawn the Eight Trigrams and devised the great carriage, harnessing oxen and riding horses for the good of the realm. Xi Zhong was merely Xia's Director of Carriages; he could hardly have been the original inventor. That passage in the Genealogical Annals is wrong. The Tang canon already records that carriages and dress should match merit and rank. Xia introduced banners and flags to distinguish rank. Zhou organized six great offices, one of which oversaw the hundred crafts. Many artisans lavished skill on a single type of work, and carriages required more of it than anything else. The Record of the Bright Hall says, "The luan carriage was the state carriage of the house of Yu. The great carriage was that of Yin. The riding carriage was that of Zhou." Yin received the auspicious "mountain carriage," the mulberry-root carriage, which they made into the great state carriage. The Ritual Apocrypha says, "The mountain carriage has timbers that hang in curves." Ju means bent. It means the wood curved naturally without being steamed and bent by craftsmen. Zhou's five ceremonial routes were named for jade, gold, ivory, leather, and wood. Their ornamentation is fully described in the Records of Craftsmen. The carriage body was square like the earth, the canopy round like heaven, the spokes like sun and moon, and the twenty-eight rim-segments like the lunar lodges. The jade, gold, and ivory routes were named for the precious materials that ornamented the carriage's fittings. The leather route used lacquered leather, the wood route lacquered wood. The jade route carried the great constant banner for sacrifice; the gold route the great banner to receive guests; the ivory route the great crimson for court audience; the leather route the great white for military affairs; the wood route the great standard for the hunt. Black was the color Xia favored.
3
輿 輿 輿 輿 𣝛 𣝛 輿 簿輿 簿輿 輿
When Qin surveyed the carriages of the Three Dynasties, it adopted Yin practice alone. Antiquity knew it as the mulberry-root carriage; Qin renamed it the golden-root carriage. Han followed Qin and made it the imperial carriage, the so-called "riding of Yin's route." The Discussion of Rites on Imperial Carriages says, "Zhou's jade chariot ranked highest; Han's golden-root carriage corresponds to Zhou's jade route." Han prescribed that the imperial golden-root carriage have vermilion-spotted wheels, double hubs with paired linchpins, and flying nave-strips. An outer hub ringed the inner hub, each fitted with linchpins and bound together with copper pins. The Rhapsody on the Eastern Capital reads, "Double wheels, paired linchpins, open hubs and flying nave-strips." The flying nave-strips were of red lacquer, eight inches wide and three feet long to the ground, tied to both axle ends—hence the name. Gold foil in coiling dragon patterns formed the carriage's leaning rails. The rails stood above the carriage box. The sideboards bore painted ornamental designs. "Fan" means the carriage box. Tigers in relief crouched on the front rail, a dragon head gripped the yoke, luan birds and sparrows stood on the crossbar, the shafts were painted on the sideboards, and the kingfisher-feather canopy had a yellow lining—the famed "yellow house." Gold ornament crowned the canopy arms; a great constant banner of twelve tassels painted with sun, moon, and ascending dragon was raised; six black horses drew the carriage; twelve luan finials, gold forked plumes, and pheasant tail feathers completed the equipage. A yak-tail standard the size of a bushel was fixed to the left outrigger horse's yoke—the so-called left-banner carriage. The equipage followed the pattern of Zhou's jade route. Ying Shao's diagram of the Han guard of honor shows that on a full imperial progress the phoenix carriage led and the golden-root carriage served as secondary. There were also five each of the five-colored seated carriages and standing carriages. They bore dragon banners, were drawn by four horses, carried eight luan finials, and otherwise matched the golden-root pattern—equivalent to Zhou's gold route. Each carriage matched its seasonal color—the five seasonal secondary carriages popularly known as the "Five Emperors' carriages." South of the Yangzi the practice died out. White horses had vermilion manes; seated carriages were ridden sitting down. Some carriages bore canopies of nine tiers. The Sweet Springs guard of honor placed five path carriages and nine touring carriages ahead of the imperial carriage. An elephant carriage went first of all to test bridges and roadbeds. Jin courts south of the Yangzi still kept this practice. Women's carriages were always ridden seated, which is why the Rites of Zhou give the queen a seated carriage but not the king. Han alone extended the seated carriage to the emperor.
4
The Son of Heaven himself drove six horses; all secondary carriages used four. The Documents mention driving six horses with a rotten rope. The Lost Rites, Record of Royal Measures, states, "The Son of Heaven drives six horses, feudal lords five, ministers four, grandees three, officers two, and commoners one." King Ping of Chu drove white horses. King Hui of Liang sent off Chunyu Kun in a seated carriage with three horses, the proper honor for a grand master. The Rites of Zhou define four horses as one team. The Mao Odes say, "From the Son of Heaven to grandees all drive four; officers drive two." Yuan Ang admonished Emperor Wen for racing six flying steeds. Wei emperors likewise drove six horses. Jin's early sericulture protocol had the empress's seated carriage drawn by six horses, with a two-shaft seated carriage of five as secondary. Since the move south of the Yangzi, court usage has dispensed with six-horse teams and driven four only.
5
使 𣝛 輿𣝛
In the third year of Daming, Emperor Xiaowu of Song ordered Left Assistant Director Xun Wanqiu to build the five ceremonial routes. The Ritual Diagrams describe the jade route with a crimson banner and no canopy, rebuilt on the golden-root pattern with crimson lacquer and painted sideboards, jade fittings, an azure twelve-tassel banner, four black horses, and a feathered canopy for sacrifice. The golden-root carriage became the gold route, with a great azure twelve-tassel banner, four black horses, and a feathered canopy for receiving guests. The ivory route (for court audience), along with the leather and wood routes, is not described in detail in the Offices of Zhou, the Treatise on Carriages and Dress, or the Ritual Diagrams; all were modeled on the jade route with lacquered painted sideboards, feathered canopy, ivory fittings, and a crimson twelve-tassel banner. The leather route bore a crimson twelve-tassel banner for military campaigns. The wood route bore a crimson standard for the hunt. The ivory and leather routes used black horses, the wood route red horses—four in each team. Formerly on major occasions when the statutory escort departed, each of the five routes had its assigned role and they did not all appear together. During Daming the court first required all five routes to go out together. For the personal plowing of the sacred field the emperor rode the triple-canopy carriage, also called the mushroom carriage or plowing-root carriage, with plow and spade set on the front rail.
6
The war chariot was ridden standing: Xia called it the hook carriage, Yin the yin carriage, Zhou the primal war chariot. It carried a battle standard set at an angle, gold drums and feather banners, with armor and crossbows on the front rail.
7
The hunting carriage had enclosed sides and wheels painted with coiling dragons. It was also called the trampling-pig carriage. Emperor Wen of Wei renamed it the trampling-tiger carriage.
8
使 西使 使使 簿 使 使
The south-pointing carriage was first built by the Duke of Zhou to guide envoys returning from distant lands. On flat open ground travelers lose their bearings; this carriage was devised so they could always tell south from north. Guiguzi says, "When men of Zheng went to gather jade they always carried the south-pointer so they would not lose their way." By Qin and Han, however, its design was no longer known. Zhang Heng of Later Han was the first to rebuild it. At the end of Han the device was lost in the chaos of civil war. Wei scholars Gao Tanglong and Qin Lang, both widely read, argued at court that no such carriage had ever existed and that historians had invented it. In Emperor Ming's Qinglong era he ordered Academician Ma Jun to rebuild it, and the carriage was completed. It was lost again in the chaos of Jin. Shi Hu had Xie Fei rebuild it, and Yao Xing had Linghu Sheng do so again. In the thirteenth year of Yixi, after Emperor Wu of Song captured Chang'an, the court recovered this carriage for the first time. It was built like the drum carriage, with a wooden figure mounted on top that raised its arm to point south. No matter how the carriage turned, the figure still pointed the same way. On a full imperial progress it led the statutory guard of honor. That carriage had been built by northern peoples; its gearing was crude, and despite the name "south-pointing," it was often inaccurate. On twisting roads it still had to be adjusted by hand. Zu Chongzhi of Fanyang was a clever craftsman who often argued it should be rebuilt. In the late Shengming years of Emperor Shun of Song, while the Prince of Qi served as chief minister, he ordered a new one built. When it was finished, Wang Sengqian (Defender-general and governor of Danyang) and Liu Xiu (supervising censor) were sent to test it. The mechanism was exquisitely precise—the pointer never wavered through countless turns. Jin also had a south-pointing boat. The Northern Wei ruler Tuoba Tao assigned the craftsman Guo Shanming to build a south-pointing carriage, but a full year passed without success. Ma Yue of Fufeng built another, but just before it was finished Guo Shanming poisoned him.
9
簿
The li-recording carriage is of obscure origin; like the south-pointer, it was taken when the High Ancestor conquered the Three Qins. Built like the south-pointing carriage, it carried a drum on top; for every li traveled a wooden figure struck one beat. On a full imperial progress it followed right behind the south-pointing carriage.
10
輿使 輿 輿輿
The palanquin carriage was the humblest of the queen's five ritual carriages in the Rites of Zhou. Queens used it for leisurely travel inside the palace; it was not a royal state carriage. Han emperors also used it, sometimes pulled by attendants, sometimes drawn by small horses. That was the carriage Emperor Cheng of Han wanted to share with Lady Ban. In Later Han the empress's relative Yin Jiu, swollen with rank, rode a palanquin too. Jing Dan mocked him: "Jie of old rode in a carriage drawn by men—is this not the same thing?" The palanquin, then, dates from the last rulers of Xia. Jing Dan mocked Yin for riding a man-drawn cart yet never accused him of lèse-majesté—did that mean great ministers were permitted to use it? No one knows when its wheels were removed. Fu Xuan wrote: "Xia called it the yu carriage, Yin the hulu carriage, Zhou the transport carriage." The transport carriage was the palanquin. Wei and Jin emperors usually rode horses on short outings but often used the lighter imperial carriage as well. The yu carriage corresponds to today's small palanquin.
11
軿 軿軿
The calf carriage was a variety of enclosed carriage. In Han only impoverished lords used it; later it grew fashionable. Sun Quan's "eight oxen in the carriage" referred to the calf carriage. Eastern Jin emperors also loaded it with provisions on outings. Han prized enclosed transport carriages over light chariots; Wei and Jin reversed that preference. There was also the pursuing-vanguard carriage—like a light chariot with the small canopy removed and a full curtain added, but horse-drawn. Calf carriages inlaid with mica were called mica carriages; officials could not use them and they were reserved as gifts for princes and dukes. Jin also had the four-view carriage, which survives in present regulations. Under Han law only merchants were barred from horse carriages; everyone else could ride them. Retired officials used crimson canopy poles; others used azure ones.
12
𣝛 軿 軿
The Rites of Zhou likewise prescribe five carriages for the queen: double-pheasant, suppressed-pheasant, comfortable, pheasant, and palanquin—five in all. Han rules required the grand empress dowager, empress dowager, and empress on statutory escort to ride the double-pheasant golden-root carriage with feather canopy, azure crossed reins and curtains, cloud-motif painted sideboards on the shafts, gilded fittings, gold blossoms on the canopy claws, three horses with outriders. On informal occasions they used purple felt enclosed carriages. The Forest of Characters defines the enclosed carriage as screened by drapery and lacking a rear shaft. Carriages with a rear shaft were called transport carriages. Ying Shao's Offices of Han records that in Emperor Ming's seventh Yongping year, at Empress Yin's burial, the soul carriage—the spirit path carriage with azure feather canopy, four horses, a nine-tassel dragon banner, and an exorcist mask leading the way. The phoenix carriage followed, with the general's wife as companion rider and the grand marshal's wife and palace women riding beside the hub—an old Former Han custom.
13
軿 軿
Jin rites for the First Silkworm had the empress ride an oil-painted mica comfortable carriage with six piebald horses. "Gui" denotes a pale black coat. A secondary oil-painted two-shaft comfortable carriage used five piebald horses. Princesses used oil-painted comfortable carriages with three horses. The three chief consorts rode azure-trimmed comfortable carriages with three horses. Each also had a purple felt enclosed carriage with three horses as escort. Nine consorts and palace ladies used enclosed carriages drawn by two horses. Ordinary palace women rode single-horse transport carriages. Imperial princesses by marriage, wives of nobles and specially advanced officials, and ennobled ladies rode black-trimmed comfortable carriages with three horses.
14
軿
Han rules gave favored consorts, princesses, princesses-by-marriage, and ennobled ladies oil-painted enclosed carriages with two horses and only a right outrider.
15
鹿𣝛𣝛
Han rules gave the crown prince and imperial sons comfortable carriages with vermilion-spotted wheels, tiger panels on the sideboards, deer figures on the front rail, black painted ornamental sideboards and body panels, azure canopy, gilded canopy tips, painted shafts, and gold fittings. When a prince was enfeoffed as king he received this equipage, hence the "king's azure-canopy carriage." They used outriders on both sides, five banners, and nine-tassel banners painted with descending dragons. Imperial grandsons rode green-canopy carriages with three horses. Under Wei and Jin rules the crown prince and all princes used four-horse teams.
16
鹿
In Jin Emperor Yuan's third Taixing year the crown prince conducted the libation ceremony at the schools. An edict read, "When no raised carriage is available, use the comfortable carriage." The "raised carriage" was the standing carriage. Dukes and marquises rode comfortable "xuan" carriages with vermilion-spotted wheels, deer panels, bear figures on the front rail, and black body panels, black silk canopy, two horses, and a right outrider. Kings and dukes bore eight-tassel banners, marquises seven, ministers five—all with descending dragons. On statutory escort to suburban rites or imperial tombs, high ministers and two-thousand-dan officials rode large standing carriages with four horses. Following attendants used two-horse large carriages with a right outrider. On other occasions they used comfortable carriages. Retiring officials were all granted a four-horse comfortable carriage. Middle-ranked two-thousand-dan officials used black canopies, vermilion panels, bronze fittings, two horses, and a right outrider. Jin law gave regent heirs of kings and dukes comfortable carriages with three horses and seven-tassel banners; marquises' heirs had five tassels.
17
軿
Fu Chang's precedents assigned the three chief ministers comfortable carriages with three horses. Specially advanced officials used two-horse teams. Ministers used one horse. Han rules required nobles' wives attending temple or silkworm rites to ride their husbands' comfortable carriages with a right outrider, black crossed reins, and black curtains. On private occasions they used lacquered cloth transport enclosed carriages with bronze fittings. In Jin Emperor Wu's fourth Taikang year an edict revived Han practice, granting each of the nine ministers a court carriage and a comfortable carriage. Fu Chang records that the director of the Masters of Writing used the edict carriage with black door ears at the rear. The supervisor had rear doors without those ears. Palace Secretariat directors and supervisors followed the same rule.
18
輿 輿 簿 輿 竿 使
Han protocol for the full great escort had the emperor ride in state while dukes and ministers led, the grand marshal drove, the general-in-chief sat as companion, and a thousand chariots and ten thousand horsemen stood ready. The retinue comprised eighty-one follow carriages. Ancient lords each kept nine spare carriages; Qin conquered nine kingdoms and absorbed their ceremonial equipage—hence eighty-one follow cars. Han preserved the number unchanged. When the capital was at Chang'an it was used for Heaven worship at Sweet Springs. After the move to Luoyang it served tomb visits at the Yuan imperial mausolea and state funerals. Statutory escort was led by the governors of Henan and Luoyang, driven by gentlemen of the imperial carriage office, with a palace attendant as companion. The retinue numbered thirty-six follow carriages. All follow carriages had black canopies lined in crimson. Later Han used statutory escort for suburban Heaven sacrifice and small escort for the ancestral temple. Small escort meant a reduced complement of follow cars. The vanguard included the nine-tassel cloud banner, hide-canopied carriage, and luan banner carriage, each driven by a grandee. The luan banner wove feathers and yak-tails in rows along the staff. Golden gongs and yellow axes led the yellow-gate drum carriage; behind the emperor rode follow cars carrying the masters of writing and censor. The rear-most carriage bore a leopard tail. Everything ahead of the leopard tail corresponded to the inner palace precinct. On every imperial outing the route was cleared and five banners raised. The grand marshal submitted the driving roster for the guard of honor; masters of writing, attending censors, and clerks carried registers to supervise the carriage-and-horse array—the "escort guard." Spring and autumn tomb visits used an escort even smaller than small escort. One duty master of writing attended; lower clerks went on foot ahead—the "advance guard." In his commentary on the Eastern Capital Rhapsody, Xue Zong treats the nine-tasseled yunhan as merely another name for regimental banners, without clarifying what it looked like. Records show that when Wei invested the Prince of Jin, it granted him imperial banners and flags, including maotou and yunhan. This proves that yunhan was not a banner or flag at all. Xu Guang, in his notes on carriages and dress, interpreted it as the nine tassels: nine you escort carriages. Yunhan is probably the same as bihan. The Preface to the Odes records: 'The Marquis of Qi hunted with biyi nets and bird-snares; the people were worn down by it.' Were bihan nets, originally used on the hunt, later turned into parade regalia? Pan Yue's Rhapsody on the Ploughing Ceremony first describes the five routes and nine banners, then mentions jade-inlaid halberds and the yunhan. If han were a flag, Pan Yue would not have returned to it again and again right under his account of the nine banners. Moreover, because it is grouped with jeweled halberds, it must be the hunting net known today as biyi—this much is clear. That reading is the correct one. The pixuan, or hide-canopied carriage, used tiger skin for its canopy. Xu also quotes the Huainanzi: 'The army rectifier carries leopard hide to keep the ranks in order.' The Record of Rites adds: 'If the Minister of Crime precedes the train, leopard hide is displayed on the carriage.' Does the leopard tail hung on the imperial carriage belong to the same symbolic family? The five banners were five flags, one for each color, each mounted on a wooden ox beneath the staff. Xu explains further: 'The wooden ox was meant to suggest load-bearing steadiness.' The wrapped staffs of the five banners correspond to the virtue carriage in the Record of Rites, whose pennants were tied but not fully decorated—only in war were they unfurled. On war chariots, the sui pennant was hung loose so that it streamed behind. The compiler notes that the tied pennant and the trailing sui pennant are now identical, though neither the virtue carriage nor the war carriage is supposed to carry them. The rationale for the wooden ox, too, remains far from clear. The Offices of Zhou catalogues every ritual object carried on chariots in meticulous detail, yet mentions nothing like the wind-vane, biyi net, or maotou—clear proof that these are later accretions. He Chengtian argued that when the warring states clashed and campaigns followed one upon another, the hanging crow was introduced to read the winds—an innovation he attributed to Qin. Emperor Wu of Jin once asked his court, 'What does maotou signify?' Peng Tui answered: 'Qin had a monster that shattered mountains and dams alike, yet feared maotou alone; tiger warriors therefore wore it. The practice is Qin's.' Zhang Hua objected: 'The story exists, but it will not bear scrutiny. I believe it evokes the warrior whose hair bristles and whose cap is knocked awry in fury.' Zhi Yu, adjudicating the dispute, would affirm neither explanation. Xu Ai remarked: 'Peng and Zhang each offer a gloss, but neither rests on any authority. Astronomical texts place the Celestial Street between the Bi and Mao constellations; the imperial train therefore led with bihan, square like Bi and round like Mao, imitating the stars. The Star Canon also names Mao 'maotou,' which is why those who carried it wore caps of fur and feathers.'
19
輿
The light carriage was the ancient battle chariot. Its wheels and body were lacquered vermilion, open to the sky; spears, halberds, standards, and flags rose from it, crossbows mounted on the side rail, and two horses in harness. Officers and men of the shouting-archer command rode them in sequence among the follow cars.
20
輿 輿
Han court ritual prescribed: 'Going forth is announced as jing; entering, as bi.' Commentators held that the escort should cry jing on departure and bi on return; in practice both cries were used at once. The compiler explains jing as vigilance and warning. Bi means to stop traffic. Today everyone who accompanies the emperor leaving the palace is kept on alert against mishap. Anyone approaching from outside who would cross the emperor's path is stopped with a cry of bi. Dong Ba and Sima Biao note that when princes screened their comings and goings, they too proclaimed jing and enforced bi.
21
殿
The wugang carriage had both side curtains and a canopy, riding ahead as the vanguard. It also brought up the rear behind the light chariots. A single team drew it. The Shiji relates that Wei Qing, campaigning against the Xiongnu, ringed his camps with wugang carriages—this is that usage.
22
𣝛
Under Han law, the great funeral procession carried the wenliang carriage on four wheels. It was decorated like the golden-root imperial hearse, with knotted cords linking jade disks, interwoven fittings, dragon heads at each corner biting disks, five-colored pendants, split plumes and silk tassels, cloud motifs painted on the curtains fore and aft, and carved lacquer on the curved carriage box, all as long as the vehicle. The grand marshal drove six white Bactrian camels, their hides branded with black dye in tiger stripes—the 'alms horses.' After the interment the camels were sold cheaply and the carriage stored in the northern secret palace. Nowadays the camels are neither striped like tigers nor sold afterward; the carriage itself is simply broken up. From Huo Guang in Han through the Duke of Anping, Prince of Qi, Jia Chong, Wang Dao, and Xie An in Jin, down to the Song Prince of Jiangxia, every statesman granted extraordinary funeral honors rode the great carriage under the yellow canopy with the wenliang hearse.
23
使使
Jin statute allowed: if an envoy on relay service learned of a parent's death, he was to report it at once, travel in white on a mule cart, and let his deputy conduct the mission on arrival. Xu Guang explains that the 'mule carriage' of relay travel was really a light calf-cart frame fitted with horse shafts. A carriage without a canopy was termed a ke carriage.
24
Under Emperor Wu of Jin, Defender-General Yang Xiu rode in a sheep cart, and Director Liu Yi impeached him for it. The throne replied: 'Even if the sheep cart is nowhere forbidden, it is not fitting for men who profess simplicity.' After the court moved south, the practice went unchecked.
25
輿殿
An old rite called chongting required that at grand audiences the emperor's chariots, palanquins, banners, and drums be displayed throughout the palace courtyard. Zhang Heng wrote: 'Dragon paths crowd the courtyard; luan banners sweep the rainbow sky.' The Jin court south of the Yangzi abandoned it. Emperor Xiaowu of Song revived the practice in the Daming period.
26
𢂿
In deepest antiquity people slept in skins and furs, without regulated dress at all. Later sages, observing the plumage of birds and beasts and the hues of plants, dyed silk into robes and set black above and yellow below to mirror heaven and earth. From crests and muzzles they devised caps, crowns, cords, and hanging regalia. Yu introduced embroidery and ever richer pattern; Xia prized restraint, yet still revered the patterned coronet. When Gao Yao laid out his plan, he spoke of five garments and five emblems. No later king might change these foundations. Zhou, reviewing Xia and Yin, codified dress with precision: one office for the six crowns, another for the six robes, each rank in its proper sequence. The Record of Rites declares: 'The cap is where ritual begins—the foremost of celebratory observances.' The earliest cap was plain cloth; in Qi it was dyed black. Xia named it wuzhui, Yin zhangfu, Zhou weimao—the everyday crowns of the Three Dynasties. Only Zhou's sacrificial crown bore spun silk and full regalia; hence Confucius's praise, 'Wear the crown of Zhou,' as the perfection of beauty. Qin, rising from a feudal king of the Warring States, swept away the old wardrobe; suburban sacrifice was performed in plain dark robes. Not until Emperor Ming of Han drew on the Offices of Zhou, the Record of Rites, the Documents, and the ru scholars was full gun-mian dress restored. Emperor Ming of Wei trimmed ministerial gun robes when their fu-and-fu emblems too closely matched the emperor's. Since Jin times the wardrobe has remained essentially unchanged. For suburban and temple rites the emperor wears a black cap-kerchief under the level crown—the pingtian guan of later usage. The crown is black outside with vermilion-green lining, seven inches wide and one foot two long, with twelve bead strings. Vermilion cords serve as the chin strap; the coat is black above and crimson below, three panels fore and four aft; the upper robe is painted and the skirt embroidered with sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, flowers, insects, waterweed, fire, grain, fu, and fu—twelve symbols in all. A plain belt four inches wide, lined in vermilion, its flaps edged in vermilion. The under-robe bears crimson trim at collar and cuffs. A knee-piece of red leather. That knee-piece is the ancient fu. Crimson trousers and socks, red court shoes. Youths not yet capped wore the open-topped cap-kerchief. For sacrifices to Confucius he wore a black gauze skirt, crimson-trimmed under-robe, crimson trousers and socks, and black shoes. He also wears full gun-mian when holding audience. Court dress paired the tongtian crown—nine inches high, with a golden Bo Mountain motif—with a black cap-kerchief, crimson gauze skirt, and black-trimmed under-robe. Tomb visits called for a black cap-kerchief and a plain white hemp robe. Miscellaneous occasions allowed kerchiefs in six colors, five-colored gauze skirts, and crowns ranging from the five-ribbed jinxian to the yuanyou, pingshang kerchief, and wuguan. Mourning or plain dress meant a white zong-cloth robe. Han ritual prescribed a light-yellow kerchief for the autumn hunt on Beginning of Autumn. Early in Emperor Ai's reign, Academician Cao Hongzhi argued that the autumn ordinance ceremony should not use the light-yellow kerchief. They petitioned to use plain white instead. The throne approved. In Song the sixth year of Yuanjia, Attendant Xu Daoyu protested that plain white was wrong for the occasion. The Secretariat was ordered to debate; the emperor insisted on keeping the old color. The light-yellow kerchief remained in use.
27
鹿
The jinxian crown stood seven inches high in front, three behind, eight long; the number of ribs marked rank—it evolved from the ancient black cloth cap. Literati and classicists wore it. Great dukes and ministers assisting at suburban and temple rites all wore the level crown—eight tassels for kings and dukes, seven for ministers—with cord chin-straps dyed to match their sashes. Kings and dukes bore nine emblems from the mountain-dragon down; ministers bore seven from the floral creature down. For the village archery ceremony, dukes and ministers wore the weimao—black silk gauze shaped like an inverted cup, identical in form to the deer-skin cap. It measured seven inches long and four inches high. They wore black robes with plain white skirts. The under-robe bore black trim at collar and cuffs. Ritual attendants wore the deer-skin cap, fashioned from deerskin.
28
The wuguan—once the Huizwen crown—was originally Zhao attire, also known as the great crown. Palace attendants added marten and cicada ornaments to it. Ying Shao's Offices of Han records the gloss: expositors likened gold to toughness—refined a hundred times without loss; the cicada dwells aloft on purity, its mouth tucked beneath its wings; the marten fierce within, warm and sleek without.' Such readings derive moral meaning from the emblems—not their true history. In truth King Wuling of Zhao adopted northern dress; when Qin conquered Zhao, the royal crown passed to palace attendants—hence the marten and cicada on courtiers since Qin and Han. Xu Guang's notes on carriages and dress suggest: 'In the cold north, marten fur first lined the brow and was fixed to the crown—did it then become mere ornament?' The palace attendant wore the marten on the left, the regular attendant on the right.
29
The law crown originated as Chu court dress. It was also called pillar-behind and xiezhi. Expositors claimed: 'The xiezhi beast discerns right from wrong and gores the unjust with its horn.' When Qin conquered Chu, the royal crown was given to judges.
30
The usher's high-mountain crown came from Qi. It was also called the side-pouring crown. When Qin conquered Qi, the royal crown passed to ushers. Emperor Ming of Wei, finding it too like the tongtian and yuanyou crowns, had it remade.
31
殿
The Fan Kuai crown, nine inches wide and modeled on the level crown, was worn by palace-gate guards. The Han general Fan Kuai habitually carried an iron shield. At Hong Gate, when Xiang Yu plotted against the King of Han, Fan Kuai tore his robe to sheath the shield and entered wearing it. Han took over Qin's thirteen crown types, but since Wei and Jin not all remained in service. What follows records those still in use.
32
禿 輿 輿
The kerchief was originally the headwear of commoners who wore no formal cap. Emperor Yuan of Han, with heavy brow hair, first wore the kerchief pulled low. Wang Mang, bald on top, added a crown to the kerchief. Han commentary states: 'The jinxian crown calls for long flaps—today's bound kerchief. The Huizwen crown calls for short flaps—today's level-top kerchief. Each era chose what fit; later the kerchief types diverged according to the crown worn.' Civil officials wore the bound kerchief; military officers the level-top kerchief. A youth's kerchief without a top showed he was not yet of age. There was also the remonstrance kerchief, gathered at the back with an extra layer three inches square. There was also the red kerchief for mounted clerks, martial clerks, and imperial musicians. During eclipse rites, civil and military officials doffed their caps for red kerchiefs over court dress, displaying martial resolve. Song imperial musicians wore black kerchiefs with the wuguan.
33
Under Han ritual, at sacrifices to the five suburbs the emperor and officiants dressed in each quarter's color; non-officiating officials wore ordinary dress to attend. Ordinary dress meant crimson robes.
34
Qin Jing, Director of the Wei Secretariat, wrote: 'Han took Qin's six crowns and reduced them to black caps and crimson robes.' Jin called this the five-season court dress; alongside four-season court dress and plain court dress.
35
𩎟 𩎟 𩎟
All military affairs were collectively termed rong. The Documents says: 'One military garment and the realm was settled." The Offices of Zhou: "The leather carriage for taking the field." It also says: "For military affairs, the rawhide cap and dress." Rawhide served for both cap and garments. The Zuo Commentary: 'He will conduct the affair in military dress." It also records that "Jin's Xi Zhi wore rawhide leggings." Early commentators glossed rawhide as "crimson." Headmen wear it today. Expositors note that even under the Five Hegemons, armies still bore sashes, cords, crown tassels, and manhu fringes—so military dress was not yet jacket and trousers; its origins remain obscure. Recently, when the emperor took the field or martial law was proclaimed, dress had no fixed hue: a black cap with a purple pennon attached. The pennon was silk, four inches long and one inch wide. A mesh belt at the waist replaced the panther-skin baldric. Inner officials wore purple pennons; outer officials crimson. There was also the gathered-alert military dress, worn without a pennon. Civil and military officials alike wore it whether on the march or in camp. On hunts and tours only attendants wore military dress with panther-skin baldrics; civil officials kept their tassels up; military officers doffed their caps. Under Emperor Wen of Song in Yuanjia, tours and hunts followed the same rule; as did responses to fire or flood at palace temples.
36
Han law prescribed for the Empress Dowager at temple sacrifice dark blue above and black below; for the silkworm rite, blue above and light blue below—all as deep garments. The deep garment was a single-layer robe. Head ornaments were trimmed lambskin headcloths.
37
Han law gave the queen dark blue above and black below for temple visits. For the silkworm rite, blue above and light blue below. Her headgear included a false topknot, step-shake, eight sparrows, nine flowers, and kingfisher inlay. Jin silkworm protocol gave the queen twelve hairpins, step-shake, a great hand-bun, a pure blue robe, sash, and jade pendant. Today the queen's temple dress is the great panelled robe called huiyi. Princesses and the three chief consorts wore the great hand-bun, seven hairpins, and covered topknot. The nine consorts and ducal wives wore five hairpins. Palace women wore three. Princesses at audiences wore the great hand-bun. Senior princesses alone might wear step-shake. Princesses and ennobled ladies of rank and above wore sashes with colored cord border belts matching their sash hues. Wives of specially advanced dukes and marquises, palace women of grandees and generals, and elder titled wives of 2000-bush rank wore dark-blue silk headcloths. When assisting sacrifice they wore black silk above and below. When assisting the silkworm rite, blue silk above and below. From the queen down to titled wives of 2000-bush rank, silkworm dress doubled as court dress.
38
Liu Xiang wrote: 'In antiquity, from the Son of Heaven to the shi, from the queen to titled wives, all wore jade—each rank by its rule." The Record of Rites specifies: "the Son of Heaven white jade on black cord; dukes and marquises mountain-black jade on vermilion cord; grandees and ministers water-green jade on black cord; shi ruo-min jade on tawny cord." Yun denotes red-yellow. The sash strung the pendants together in sequence. Above and below hung the fu, like the knee-piece—each rank distinct. After the Five Hegemons war never ceased; pendants were not weapons, fu not battle gear—so both were cast off, leaving only the fastening cords. Qin linked colored cords to those fastenings in interlocking succession—this became the sash. Han adopted the practice. Emperor Ming restored jade pendants, but by late Han they vanished again. Wei Attendant Wang Can recovered the design and had it recreated. Today's pendants are his. For the queen down to titled wives the ancient rules are lost; they now follow court practice—Qin-style cord sashes with pendants restored.
39
Under Han law, from the Son of Heaven to every official, all wore swords. Sima Biao's Treatise records the full regulations. As chief of Sishui precinct, Han Gaozu drew his sword and slew the white serpent. Jun Buyi wrote: "The sword is a gentleman's martial gear." Zhang Heng's Rhapsody on the Eastern Capital has it: "Yellow cords looped, Ganjiang at the waist." So from the ruler to the scholar, all wore swords at the belt as well. From the Jin dynasty on, wooden swords replaced edged blades.
40
輿 輿
The six seals of the imperial equipage were a Qin institution. Old Han Protocol lists them: the Emperor's Traveling Seal, the Emperor's Seal, the Emperor's Trust Seal, the Son of Heaven's Traveling Seal, the Son of Heaven's Seal, and the Son of Heaven's Trust Seal." Han simply followed Qin in this. When the High Ancestor first entered the Pass, he took Qin Shihuang's Lantian jade seal—dragon-tiger knob, inscription: "Having received Heaven's mandate, may the emperor endure and prosper." The High Ancestor wore it at his belt; later ages called it the Heirloom Seal of the Realm. With the sword that slew the white serpent, both were treasures of the imperial equipage. The Heirloom Seal, from Wei and Jin to the present day, has never been set aside; the white-serpent sword burned in the arsenal fire under Emperor Hui of Jin and is lost today. When Emperor Huai of Jin died among the Hu, the Heirloom Seal fell to Liu Cong and later to Shi Le. After Shi Hu, Shi Le's brother, died in the Hu upheavals, it returned to the royal treasury in the reign of Emperor Mu of Jin. Yu Xi's Forest of Records notes: "The Heirloom Seal lay outside the six—the Son of Heaven had seven seals in all." Han commentary glosses: "Xi means seal. Before Qin, subjects used gold or jade seals with dragon or tiger knobs as they chose. Since Qin the term xi was reserved, jade alone was used, and subjects might not employ it." Under Han law the emperor wore a yellow-vermilion sash in four colors: yellow, vermilion, light blue, and dark blue. The empress bore a gold seal and the same sash. By ritual a shi's sash should have been such; later ages altered the ancient rule. Wu had no jade carvers and used gold for its seals. Sun Hao's six gold seals were an instance of this. There were also unicorn, phoenix, tortoise, and dragon seals, and camel, horse, and duck-head seals of various kinds—today these are omitted.
41
The crown prince: gold seal, tortoise knob, scarlet-vermilion sash in four colors—vermilion, yellow, light blue, and dark blue. He received five-season court dress, the far-roaming crown, and also the three-ribbed worthy crown. He wore lustrous jade.
42
Princes: gold seal, tortoise knob, scarlet-vermilion sash in four colors—vermilion, yellow, light blue, and dark blue. They received five-season court dress, the far-roaming crown, and also the three-ribbed worthy crown. They wore mountain-black jade.
43
Regional dukes: gold badge, dark-vermilion sash. They received five-season court dress, the three-ribbed worthy crown, and mountain-black jade. The Grand Preceptor, Grand Tutor, Grand Guardian, Chancellor, Minister over the Masses, and Minister of Works: gold badge, purple sash. They received five-season court dress and the three-ribbed worthy crown. They wore mountain-black jade. The Chancellor of State alone wore a green-purple sash in three colors: green, purple, and dark blue. Lu is a plant name; its hue is green. The Grand Marshal, Grand General, Grand Commandant, and all generals of ducal rank: gold badge, purple sash. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown. They wore mountain-black jade. Regional marquises: gold badge, blue-vermilion sash. They received five-season court dress and the three-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
44
The Swift Cavalry and Chariot Cavalry generals, all generals with the senior prefix, and the Campaigning, Garrisoning, Pacifying, Tranquilizing, Central Army, Army Garrisoning, Army Pacifying, Front, Left, Right, and Rear generals, plus the Campaigning against Barbarians, Champion, State-Supporting, and Dragon-Prancing generals—all bore gold badges and purple sashes. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown. They wore water-green jade.
45
Honored Consorts, Ladies, and Honored Ladies: gold badges inscribed "Seal of the Honored Consort," "Seal of the Lady," and "Seal of the Honored Lady." Purple sash. They wore Khotan jade.
46
Pure Consorts, Pure Ladies, Pure Ceremonials, Cultivated Splendors, Cultivated Countenances, Cultivated Ceremonials, Ladies of Handsome Fairness, Splendid Countenances, and Fulfilling Splendors: silver seals bearing each respective title. Blue sash. They wore five-colored fine jade.
47
The crown prince's consort: gold seal, tortoise knob, scarlet-vermilion sash. She wore lustrous jade.
48
Princes' senior consorts and consorts, senior princesses, princesses, and ennobled ladies of rank: gold seal, purple sash. They wore mountain-black jade.
49
Princes' heirs: gold seal, purple sash. Five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore mountain-black jade.
50
Senior ladies and ladies of regional dukes and marquises: silver seal, blue sash. They wore water-green jade.
51
Heirs of regional dukes and marquises: silver seal, blue sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
52
Attendants-in-Ordinary, Regular Attendants of the Rapid Cavalry, and Palace Attendants received five-season court dress and the martial crown. Marten and cicada insignia: Attendant-in-Ordinary on the left, Regular Attendant on the right. All wore water-green jade.
53
The Director and Vice Director of the Masters of Writing: bronze seal, black sash. They received five-season court dress, the Remonstrator's cap, and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
54
Masters of Writing received five-season court dress, the Remonstrator's cap, and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
55
The Supervisor and Director of the Palace Secretariat and the Director of the Palace Library: bronze seal, black-green sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
56
祿
Household Grandees, ministers, metropolitan magistrates, the crown prince's tutors and guardians, the Grand Director of the Palace Domestic Service, and the Supervisor of the Crown Prince's Household: silver badge, blue sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
57
The Commandant of the Guard alone wore the martial crown. The Commandant of the Guard was not established in the Jiangzuo court. Emperor Xiaowu of Song first established the post in the inaugural Xiaojian year; without consulting Jin dress regulations, he merely gave all Nine Ministers literary caps and two-ribbed worthy crowns—not the ancient rule.
58
The Colonel Director of Retainers, Martial Commandant, Left and Right Guards, Central Solid and Central Rampart, Valiant Cavalry and Mobile Strike, Front, Left, Right, and Rear Armies, the Tranquilizing, Establishing, Shaking, Stirring, Raising, and Broad Might and Martial generals, Left and Right Accumulated Crossbows and Strong Crossbow generals, and Army Supervisors—all bore silver badges and blue sashes. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown. They wore water-green jade.
59
西
Army Directors, Army Protectors, colonels of the five gate garrisons, and generals of the east, south, west, north, and center: silver seal, blue sash. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown. They wore water-green jade.
60
District, township, and precinct marquises: gold seal, purple sash. Court dress and the three-ribbed worthy crown.
61
The Eagle-Raising, Ram-Charging, Light Chariot, Flame-Raising, Far-Reaching Might, Tranquilizing the Far, Tiger Might, Materiel Officer, Wave-Subduing, and River-Crossing generals: silver badge, blue sash. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown.
62
The Stirring Martial Army Protector, Pacifying the Yi Army Pacifier, Army Protectors, commandants of army districts, provinces, commanderies, and states, Chariot Bearer, Master of the Side-Stable, Commandant of Cavalry, commandants of army protectors leading troops to assist commandery commandants, Director of Waterways, Director of Parks, Pasturage Officer, Director of Pasturage Commandant, Central Cadet of Revenue, colonels and commandants, Commandant Director of Salt, Materiel Colonel, Royal Domain Commandant, Commandant of Yiwu in Yizhou, and Commandant Overseeing the Huai River Ford—all bore silver seals and blue sashes. Five-season court dress and the martial crown.
63
Provincial governors: bronze seal, black sash. They received scarlet court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
64
使
The Palace Assistant Imperial Secretary and Commissioner of Waterways: bronze seal, black sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
65
The Supervisor of Ushers: bronze seal, black sash. He received four-season court dress and the high-mountain crown. They wore water-green jade.
66
Marshals of the various armies: silver badge, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
67
Attendants Within the Gates, Gentlemen Attendants at the Yellow Gates, Gentlemen Cavalier Attendants, Senior Household Attendants of the Heir Apparent, and Household Attendants received five-season court dress and the martial crown.
68
Secretariat Attendants received five-season court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
69
The Deputy Palace Attendant and Superintendent of the Heir Apparent's Guard: bronze seal, black sash. They received five-season court dress and the martial crown.
70
簿
Central Cadets of the Tiger Garrison and Supervisors of the Forest of Feathers: bronze seal, black sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown. On the imperial staircase or in the guard of honor they wore crossbill plumes and scarlet gauze single robes. The crossbill resembles a fowl and is native to Shangdang. A fierce bird, it fights to the death without yielding. Hence they again wore the crossbill plume.
71
殿
The Central Inspector of the Northern Army and Palace Supervisor: bronze seal, black sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
72
西
The Protector General of the Xiongnu, protector cadets for the Qiang, Yi, Rong, southern tribes, Wuhuan, and Western Regions, and the Colonel of Geng and Ji: bronze seal, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
73
Grand Administrators, Chancellors, and Chief Administrators of commanderies and states: silver badge, blue sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. In the Jiangzuo court they wore only single robes and kerchiefs. Those advanced to the middle two-thousand-bushel rank followed the dress of ministers and metropolitan chiefs.
74
Gate-guard generals: silver badge, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
75
Cavalry commanders-in-chief and defenders: silver seal, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
76
Left and Right Assistants of the Masters of Writing and Secretariat Aides: bronze seal, yellow sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
77
Gentlemen of the Masters of Writing and Secretariat, Household Gentlemen of the Center, Grooms of the Heir Apparent, and Household Gentlemen wore court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
78
The Attending Imperial Secretary for Punishments of the Yellow Sands: silver seal, black sash. Court dress and the law crown.
79
Attending censors wore court dress and the law crown.
80
Named marquises within the passes and in Guanzhong: gold seal, purple sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
81
All erudites received black court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. They wore water-green jade.
82
簿 沿 便 簿 沿
Chief administrators of princely establishments, aides of ministers and metropolitan chiefs, and county magistrates at the thousand-bushel rank: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown. In the Jiangzuo court, princely chief administrators had no court dress; county magistrates wore only single robes and kerchiefs. In the fourth year of Yuanhui under the deposed Emperor of Song, Wang Jian, Right Chief Administrator of the Excellency of Works, argued that princely chief administrators should wear court dress. He said: "The Discourses of the States says: 'Countenance is the bloom of emotion; dress is the script of the heart. In the solemn rites of the palace hall, cap and gown come first. Hence army and court differ in dress, and inner and outer offices in rank. Yet recent practice has often strayed from the rule. Princely establishments govern men and set the pattern for the realm. I stand at his side as aide; my aim is to discharge my office. I ever recall the ancient canon and keep vigilance at dusk in mind. The Jin ordinance ranks the princely chief administrator at grade six—bronze seal, black sash, court dress, and the two-ribbed worthy crown. Aides and staff officers, grade seven—court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. Jin official tables and their annotations agree with the ordinance. Today chief administrators, aides, and staff wear only scarlet robes—an open breach of written law, a long misuse hardened into error. I propose restoring the old rule: chief administrators the two-ribbed crown, aides and staff the one-ribbed crown, all fully equipped with court dress. Inner tunics and leather slippers, all as the old regulations prescribe. If approved, I ask that it be issued to both Works establishments and all honorary three-establishment offices as a permanent standard. Reviewing precedent, in the Works establishment the staff of offices commanding infantry matched those who attended court without commanding troops. Chief clerks and libationers were fully equipped with inner tunics and leather slippers; clerks below wore only dark robes. Now that the establishment is opened as a princely domain, I respectfully follow this rule. For those who also hold Secretariat posts, the dark robes raise a question. The ordinance says that all who hold concurrent posts follow the higher office. Inner-court offices outrank the rest; those with Secretariat posts should wear their Secretariat dress and not fall under the dark-robe rule. If they hold ministerial bureau posts alongside princely duties, though third rank, the bureau is lower—they should follow the princely establishment's dark-robe rule. Cap and insignia are weighty matters and ritual comes first—I ask the Secretariat to rule on dress." Shen Yizhi of the Bureau of Rites argued: "Regulations and jades embody virtue; additions and reductions follow the times; Garments shaped to embody merit are deployed as each age demands. Carriages and banners changed from Shang to Zhou; caps and ornaments were remade under Qin and Han—must every age inherit the same look and only swap what it reveres? Border marten tails stood in for attendants' foremost insignia; humble kerchiefs rose to the imperial brow—once suited to the moment, they at once became later institutions. Scarlet robes for court have spanned a hundred generations; to drop leather slippers would break what has long stood as custom. Dress is fixed statute; once settled it becomes everlasting law. What Jian urges does not match ancient teaching. Blue and green succeed one another; each age adjusts its own—why cast off Song's flourishing statutes to chase Jin's decayed canon? Change for change's sake is mere trouble; reform is unwarranted." Jian submitted again: "Lately dress and insignia have been widely neglected, contrary to former standards. A recent proposal followed the ordinance, but the reply was that reform was inappropriate. It also cited Assistant Director Liu: 'The ordinance text requires court dress for all who should have it, yet most now lack it. So the text survives while the dress is lost—not for aides alone; long disuse has itself become custom.' Such was the imperial reply. When Great Song received the mandate, it always followed Jin institutions; statutes and ordinances alike looked to the past. If change is warranted, it should go up in an edict and down through court debate, set beside sun and moon, and made a model for posterity. How can one outer establishment's lapse stand as Great Song's flourishing statute, or Jin ordinances be called decayed law? To follow error and abandon right is not what a high debate should aim at; to clarify the old canon—what case is there for reform? The Assistant Director also cited clerks' curtailed dress as a parallel for aides. Names and ranks differ; ritual grades differ. Clerks may be reduced by expedient; for high officers to be curtailed is a far graver lapse. Chief clerks and libationers were fully dressed for court, while chief administrators, aides, and staff took their places in scarlet robes. Set side by side by rank, the practice contradicts itself. If this can be tolerated, what cannot? To invoke the ordinance for the old rule, yet treat the office's lapse as precedent—having weighed the reply, I cannot fathom it. To do one's office—where is the compulsion? The ordinance is clear; keep it without second thought." Yizhi argued again: "Cloud and fire follow their objects; dress alters along the way. Imperial music has five forms; royal rites three changes—must Great Song, on receiving the mandate, cling wholly to Jin custom? When state altars or court rites lack clear text, edicts descend and court debate settles it—how can aides of the great establishment alter their robes and overturn an imperial ruling from the Hall of Brightness? He approves clerks' reduction yet faults high officers' simplification. If the statute can be followed, rank makes no difference; if the rule must be uniform, what has expedient to do with it? One rule applied, one waived—only deepens the deadlock. Aides are not officers of leather slippers; clerks are by nature court-dress officers. All in the ranks should match—here the old ordinance was breached and then changed; the present rule was approved and has long stood. Ranks differ and dress differs—how does that invite talk of contradiction? To debate doubtful regulations, why argue strong versus weak? The establishment cites revised leftover text; the office relies on long-standing settled canon—there is room to avoid rigidity; going astray is not what we seek." After joint review all sided with Jian; the proposal was shelved.
83
Army chief administrators, aides of ministers and metropolitan chiefs, prison aides, aides of the Heir Apparent's tutors and household administrators, commandery and state chancellors, chief administrators, aides, county magistrates, pass and valley chiefs, chiefs and magistrates of princely and marquisate offices, judicial officers, secretaries for punishment, and stewards of princesses' households: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. In the Jiangzuo court, tutors of the Heir Apparent, ministers, metropolitan chiefs, and household administrators' aides wore black court dress. Commandery aides and county magistrates and chiefs wore only single robes and kerchiefs.
84
The Masters of Carriages, Grand Astrologer, Grand Physician, Grand Provisioner, Imperial Wardrobe, Director of the Inner Quarters, chiefs of the Heir Apparent's offices, stewards, gate grandees, and tomb chiefs bore bronze seals and black sashes. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
85
The Superintendent of the Heir Apparent's Chime Office, Household Administrator, and Steward: bronze seal, black sash. They received five-season court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
86
Chiefs, stewards, and senior clerks of all Yellow Gate offices: bronze seal, black sash. Four-season court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
87
Supervisors of Yellow Gate supernumerary attendants and of the Heir Apparent's palace eunuchs: bronze seal, black sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
88
Princely Masters of Carriages, colonels and commandants of gate armies and the five garrison camps, chief administrators and masters of carriages of the Protector of the Xiongnu and of the Protectors of the Qiang, Rong, Yi, Man, Yue, and Wuhuan and of the Garrison of Wuji, and army masters of carriages: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown. In the Jiangzuo court, princely Masters of Carriages had no court dress; the rest wore only single robes and kerchiefs.
89
The Director, Supervisor, and Assessor of the Commandant of Justice: bronze seal, black sash. They received black lingbi court dress and the law crown.
90
Palace Attendant Directors and Grand Agriculturalists of kings, commanderies, dukes, and marquises: bronze seal, blue sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
91
The aide of the Commandant of the Northern Army: bronze seal, yellow sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
92
Superintendents of the Heir Apparent's regular Tiger Garrison escort, thousand-man superintendents, company superintendents, and masters of carriages of Tiger Garrison superintendents: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
93
殿
Palace generals: silver badge, blue sash. Four-season court dress and the martial crown. By the end of Song, badges and sashes were no longer issued to them.
94
Colonels and commandants of the Office of Waterways, Imperial Parks, Pasturage, Imperial Herds, and Materiel Officers, and of commandery and state commandants and masters of carriages: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
95
All ushers wore court dress and the high-mountain crown.
96
Petition clerks of the Secretariat and Palace Secretariat and chief clerks of the Palace Gate received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
97
使殿使
Record clerks of the Masters of Writing, aides of the Commissioner of Waterways, clerks of the Secretariat, Palace Secretariat, and Cavalier Attendant-in-Ordinary, clerks serving the Supervisor of Records and the Masters of Writing and Palace Secretariat, clerks for composition, punishment, seals, and genealogies, and clerks of the Orchid Terrace, its palace ushers, and the Commissioner of Waterways: court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. In the Jiangzuo court, record clerks were not issued court dress.
98
簿
Cadets of the Imperial Insignia wore court dress and the martial crown. On the imperial staircase or in the guard of honor they wore crossbill plumes and scarlet gauze patterned single robes.
99
殿殿
Colonels and commandants of Central Regulars of the Palace, Yellow Gate Regulars of the Palace, and Palace Grand Physicians: silver seal, blue sash. Four-season court dress and the martial crown.
100
Marquises Outside the Passes: silver seal, blue sash. Court dress and the two-ribbed worthy crown.
101
Left and Right Commandants of the Watch, Superintendents of the Imperial Gate, and gate wardens: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
102
Commandants of kings, commanderies, dukes, and marquises: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
103
Supervisors and protectors of military households, masters of carriages and clerks, and household generals: bronze seal. Court dress and the martial crown. Masters-of-carriages clerks were granted black sashes provisionally.
104
Grandees of Palace Counsel, Regular Palace Counselors, Masters of Discussion, Gentlemen, and Attendants wore court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. Those of the thousand-bushel rank wore the two-ribbed crown.
105
Record clerks of the gate wardens wore court dress and the martial crown. In the Jiangzuo court, record clerks were not issued court dress.
106
Adjutants and clerks of all gate stewards and Eastern Palace gate officers wore black lingbi court dress. Stewards and Eastern Palace gate officers wore the rebuff-wrong crown. Adjutant clerks wore the worthy crown.
107
Palace patrolmen and precinct chiefs wore black lingbi court dress and the martial crown.
108
Colonels and commandants of the Grand Physician, the Director of the Office of the General Director, and the Director of Pitch Pipes and Harmonization: silver seal, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown.
109
Junior Yellow Gate attendants received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
110
Yellow Gate ushers received four-season court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown. At court audiences and when conveying petitions they wore the high-mountain crown.
111
Clerks of all Yellow Gate offices received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
112
Central Yellow Gate attendants, supernumerary attendants of Yellow Gate offices, and palace eunuchs received four-season regulation single robes and the martial crown.
113
殿殿
Palace masters of carriages, tomb guards, and palace masters of carriages of the Grand Physician: bronze seal, black sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
114
Masters of carriages of the Grand Physician: bronze seal. Court dress and the martial crown.
115
Supervisors of the General Director, of the Imperial Band, and masters of carriages of the Director of Pitch Pipes: bronze seal, black sash. Court dress. Supervisors of the Imperial Band and masters of carriages of the Director of Pitch Pipes and Harmonization wore the martial crown. Supervisors of the General Director and masters of carriages of the Director of Pitch Pipes wore the one-ribbed worthy crown.
116
Aides of county offices, of all the Heir Apparent's offices, and of princely, ducal, and marquisate offices and of princesses' households: bronze seal, yellow sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
117
Aides of the Grand Physician: bronze seal. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
118
Aides of all Yellow Gate offices: bronze seal, yellow sash. They received four-season court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
119
Chiefs of Yellow Gate parks and park supervisors: bronze seal, yellow sash. They received four-season court dress and the martial crown.
120
County commandants and wardens of passes, valleys, and frontier barriers: bronze seal, yellow sash. Court dress and the martial crown. In the Jiangzuo court they wore only single robes and kerchiefs.
121
Petty officials of Luoyang townships: bronze seal, blue sash. Court dress and the one-ribbed worthy crown.
122
From the Declare Authority General down to the Assistant General: bronze seal. Court dress and the martial crown. Those who held these posts as regional inspectors, commandery administrators, Tiger Garrison superintendents of ten-thousand-man units and above, or masters-of-carriages clerks all wore blue sashes provisionally.
123
Gentlemen-of-the-Interior, colonels, and commandants of Pacifying the Barbarians and Martial Fierce: silver seal. Court dress and the martial crown. Those who held these posts as Tiger Garrison superintendents of thousand-man units and above, or as masters-of-carriages clerks, all wore blue sashes provisionally.
124
Separate-division masters of carriages and army provisional masters of carriages: silver seal. Court dress and the martial crown.
125
簿
Gentlemen-of-the-Interior, colonels, and commandants of the Director of Iconography and Craftsmen and the Director of Waterways: silver seal, blue sash. Court dress and the martial crown. Unless the post was specially conferred for craft skill and ingenuity, no sash was issued. Forest of Feathers cadets and senior cadets who bore seals of Martial Fierce commandants and above wore blue sashes provisionally. Below separate-division masters of carriages, black sashes were granted provisionally. Court dress and the martial crown. Their senior cadets and stalwart soldiers wore the martial-cap crown. On the imperial staircase and in the guard of honor they wore scarlet-patterned single robes.
126
使簿
Majordomos, chief clerks, chariot leaders, and cavalry of the Imperial Staircase A-Guard, and Tiger Garrison soldiers provisionally assigned to the Five-Ox Banner on the imperial terrace wore brocade-patterned robes, the martial crown, and crossbill plumes on the imperial staircase and in the guard of honor. Staircase chiefs wore bronze seals and black sashes granted provisionally. They wore maotou.
127
簿
When the Forest of Feathers stood on the imperial staircase or in the guard of honor, they wore scarlet regulation single robes with painted-leather waist-jackets over them. They were granted maotou provisionally.
128
Masters of carriages of the palanquin-bearers, track-followers, bird-scouts, vanguard archers, and strong crossbowmen, and tomb-guard Tiger Garrison soldiers who bore seals of Martial Fierce commandants and above wore blue sashes provisionally. Below separate-division masters of carriages, black sashes were granted provisionally. Tomb-guard tiger guards received scarlet regulated single robes and the martial crown.
129
殿殿
Supernumerary hall tiger guards, hall tiger guards, and tomb-guard supernumerary tiger guards bearing hooked halberds who wore seals below Martial-Fierce Commandant wore a provisional blue sash. Below detached-division marshal: provisional black sash. Scarlet regulated single robes and the martial crown.
130
殿 簿
Tiger guards bearing mace-axes as martial riders, Five-Horse edict-bearers, hall Forest Guards, tomb-guards of the Grand Provisioner's food service, food-presenting stewards, and palace food-service tiger guards who wore seals of Martial-Fierce Commandant or above wore a provisional blue sash. Below detached-division marshal: provisional black sash. They received scarlet jackets and the martial crown. On the imperial staircase or in the guard of honor, Five-Horse tiger guards wore brocade-pattern robes and crossbill plumes. Stewards wore lychee-pattern robes.
131
殿殿 使
Yellow Gate musicians, the Nail Office director, Yellow Gate musician clerks and chief clerks, all office musicians, Secretariat corridor attendants, Gate Office and Secretariat gatekeepers, hall protocol outriders, tiger guards regularly posted at the Yellow Cloud Dragon Gate, Gate Office left and right tiger-guard and Forest Guard outriders, guide-outriders for message-bearers, and Gate Office Secretariat gatekeepers received scarlet jackets and the martial crown. South Documents Gate Office tiger-guard and Forest Guard outriders, Orchid Terrace Five Offices seal-store corridor gatekeepers, protocol officers, tally-issuing outriders, Chief of Waters corridor gatekeepers at Yellow Sand, ushers, recorders, protocol outriders, Yellow River embankment usher outriders, and all office usher outriders wore scarlet jackets and the martial crown. Their garments were supplied according to precedent. Chief challenge-guards wore black regulated single robes and the Fan Kuai cap. Guardsmen wore black cloth jackets and the repelling-enemy cap. In general, for all these offices above, the Jiangzuo court often did not supply them, and court dress was frequently lacking.
132
西
All who were due court dress with jade pendants but were not in the capital received court dress; except colonels who protected the Wuhuan, Qiang, Rong, Yi, and Man, colonels of that rank and above, inspectors, and the Garrison of Wuji Colonel in the Western Regions—none received jade pendants. When they came to court audiences, dress was loaned for the occasion and returned when the audience ended. All who were due court dress but whom the office did not supply might provide it themselves. Those who held provisional seals and sashes but received no pan pouch from the office might make one themselves. Those who received only a provisional seal and not a sash might not wear a sash.
133
The pan pouch was an ancient institution. In Han those who wore pan pouches carried them at the side of the waist. Some called it the side pouch, some the sash pouch. Thus this pouch held the sash. Whether it held the sash or lay empty, each had its season, it seems.
134
One set of court dress comprised one cap and one kerchief; one crimson robe and one black-bordered inner robe with collar and sleeves; one leather belt and one pair of lined trousers; one pair of shoes and socks; and hairpin, hair-guide, and ear-stops as accessories. Four-season court dress added one each of crimson silk, yellow, green, blue-green, and black unlined robes; Five-season court dress added one white silk unlined robe.
135
鹿
Those who received court dress were allotted seven zhang two chi of cloth for the unlined robe; five zhang two chi for the regulated unlined robe and jacket; five zhang of silk for the inner robe; one zhang eight chi of black border; one bolt one chi of refined silk for collar and sleeves; and seven chi five cun of silk. Trousers were supplied with one zhang four chi of refined silk and two zhang of thin silk. Sock cloth: three chi. For the unlined robe and jacket lined belt, one section of thin silk each, seven chi long. East of the Yangzi only silk was granted, in differing amounts by rank. At the end of Yuanjia in Song and Yuan, the grant was cut off and has not resumed to the present. Mountain-deer fur, ferret-badger, pillar-ferret, white ferret-badger, fox fur with white collar, yellow leopard, spotted white sable, Qusou fur coats, swaying hairpins, eight-prong ornaments, covering-knots, multi-layer cicada ornaments, mingzhong, qubai, and all woven caps and robes, brocade curtains, pure gold and silver vessels, and mica pieces more than one cun wide were all forbidden luxuries.
136
𨮹 𨮹 祿
Officials of rank two and above in the office-rank ordinance might wear anything not on the forbidden list. Rank three and below were further barred from three-prong ornaments and above, covering-knots, noble-fork ornaments, false pearl and jadeite trappings on tassels and pendants, mixed-color garments, cup-pattern brocade, Qi embroidery with fu patterns, quli, and gui robes. Rank six and below were further barred from gold prongs, damask, brocade, brocade embroidery, seven-border gauze, sable and ferret-badger coats, gold fork-rings and ear-stops, gold-trimmed vessels, and crimson curtains. Rank eight and below were further barred from gauze, fine silk, patterned silk, regulated gauze, and mixed-color true patterns. Cavalry soldiers and artisans were further barred from great crimson and purple bordered robes, false knots, true pearl ear-pendants, rhinoceros horn, tortoise shell, Yue layered fabrics, silver-trimmed vessels, hanging curtains, calf carts, and shoe colors beyond green, blue, and white. Slaves, servants, and dependent clients were further barred from white kerchiefs, madder, crimson, gold, yellow, silver forks, rings, bells, quli, and ear-stops, and shoe colors beyond plain blue. When officials left office, died without salary, or perished, what their households might wear all followed the former office's rule. Princes might not privately make forbidden objects, saddles with felt and jade trappings, or useless things carved, inlaid, chased, and engraved in pearl, jade, gold, and silver.
137
The Son of Heaven sat on a lacquered couch and dwelt in a vermilion hall. The historian notes that the Zuo Commentary records reddening the pillars of Duke Huan's palace. He Xiu's commentary on the Gongyang also mentions dwelling in a vermilion hall. The practice is of long standing. The lacquered couch too must be old Han usage, yet the Han Rites do not record it. As for why it must be vermilion and lacquer, the reason can be stated. Rare timbers and fine trees come in many kinds; all root deep on high ground, and none is easy to obtain. With broad lands and many hands at work, toil grows bitter, expense runs deep, and waste grows ever heavier. Therefore the sage kings of high antiquity used undressed rafters; to dress them would invite carved corbels and painted pillars without limit. The wise fixed their mirror on what was minute and far off, checked the first sprout and barred the bud, knowing undressed rafters would not satisfy later ages and that not dressing them would leave nothing for the future—so they added vermilion and applied lacquer to hand the practice down to posterity. Common timber and ordinary wood can all be put to use. To probe the hidden intent from afar—is it not here?
138
殿
When hall buildings have round pools and square wells with lotus planted together, it is to quell fire omens.
139
In antiquity noble and base all held tablets; when there was business they tucked them in the belt—hence the girdled gentleman, who tucks his tablet and lets the sash hang. The sash hung three chi. The tablet was for writing when there was business; therefore a brush was always worn—today's white brush is its surviving trace. Civil officials of the Three Terraces and Five Ministries of rank two wore it. Kings, dukes, marquises, earls, viscounts, barons, ministers, prefects, and military officers did not wear it. Only those who added inner-attendant rank wore it. The hand board is the ancient tablet. The Director, Vice Director, and Directors of the Secretariat had white brushes again at the head of the hand board, wrapped in purple leather—this was called the tablet. Court dress had on the shoulder a purple raw lined pouch stitched outside the robe; vulgarly called the purple lotus. Some say in Han it held memorials, carried on the back when walking—the point is not clear.
140
使 鹿 使 𢂿 𢂿 𢂿
In the third year of Huangchu, Emperor Wen of Wei decreed that Han Grand Commandant Yang Biao receive armrest and staff and be treated with guest ritual. On the day he was invited, he was made to enter court leaning on the staff. He was also ordered to wear a deerskin cap. Biao declined and remonstrated; the emperor would not listen. He was then made to appear in a cloth single robe and skin cap. Fu Xuan's son said: "At the end of Han, kings, dukes, and famous gentlemen mostly set aside royal dress and took the wide kerchief as refined. Therefore Yuan Shao, Cui Jun, and the like, though generals and commanders, all wore folded kerchiefs." Emperor Wu of Wei, because the realm knew famine and ruin and goods ran scarce, modeled the ancient skin cap and cut thin silk to make the ze, fitting simplicity suited to the time and using color to distinguish noble and base. Originally it was military adornment, not state ceremonial dress. Xu Ai said: "Popular lore says the ze originally had no fork; Xun Wenruo wore it, and walking he struck a branch and made a fork, which was called auspicious, and therefore was not changed." In general it was taken as congratulation and mourning dress. The kerchief was made of kudzu, shaped like the ze but worn crosswise; ancient noble and base wore it alike. Therefore at the end of Han rebel bandits used yellow for kerchiefs, and the age called them "Yellow Turban bandits." Today National University students wear it, take the single robe as court dress, and hold one scroll of classics in place of the hand board. Retired gentlemen and rustics all wear the kerchief.
141
輿 𢂿
Xu Ai said: "The cap's name is like the crown. The meaning is taken from covering the head. Its origin is the tassel. In antiquity there were crowns without kerchiefs; below the crown was a tassel made of silk. Later generations put kerchiefs on the crown and cut the tassel into a cap. From the imperial carriage at leisure down to commoners without rank, all wore it. The historian notes that in the ninth year of Xianhe of Emperor Cheng of Jin it was decreed that Directors of the Eight Seats and Secretariat, and Gate Office Three Departments vice-directors, might ride in carriages with white kerchief and low kerchief when entering and leaving the side gates. Direct officials of the Two Palaces also wore black silk ze. Thus gentlemen at leisure all wore kerchiefs. Yet in the Jiangzuo age rustics already wore caps, and gentlemen often did so too, but the crown was round. Later they raised the crown, it is said.
142
In antiquity the ruler had court dress, sacrificial dress, feast dress, and mourning dress. Mourning dress was skin cap and suspected hemp; today single robe and black kerchief serve as feast dress, and tomb-visits are the same. Single robe with white lining serves as mourning dress; for showing respect in rank it is also worn. The single robe is the ancient deep robe. Today's single robe is cut like the deep robe, differing only in the silk belt. The deep robe used silk cap in dwelling for mourning. The single robe used plain kerchief for auspicious occasions.
143
In the third year of Taishi of Emperor Wu of Jin, an edict granted Grand Preceptor Prince Fu of Ping'an the dress of Attendant-in-Ordinary, and granted Grand Marshal Prince Wang of Yiyang the robe and coronet of highest honor. In the fourth year, another edict required the kings of Zhao, Le'an, and Yan to adopt the dress of a Regular Attendant of the Rapid Cavalry. In the tenth year, the Prince of Pengcheng received the highest ceremonial robe and coronet.
144
As the usurper Huan Xuan of false Chu prepared to seize the throne, he likewise invested the Grand Preceptor, the Langye King and younger brother of Emperor An's mother, with gun-and-mian dress.
145
Since the founding of Song, only when princes and great ministers received the added titles of Attendant-in-Ordinary or Regular Attendant of the Rapid Cavalry might they wear sable fur and ornamental pendants.
146
𢃕 殿 輿 鹿 簿 輿 𨪋
In the first year of Xiaojian under Emperor Xiaowu of Song, Chancellor Prince of Nanjun Yixuan rebelled; in the second year, Inspector of Yongzhou Prince of Wuchang Hun likewise harbored treasonous designs. Emperor Xiaowu, posthumously Shizu, resented the power of the feudatory princes and sought to cut it back. On jiwei day in the tenth month of that year, Grand Marshal Prince of Jiangxia Yigong and Rapid Cavalry General Prince of Jingling Dan submitted a memorial reforming princely carriage and dress, nine articles in all, recorded in Yigong's biography. The emperor then prompted the responsible offices, by pointed allusion, to broaden the regulations further. The memorial read: "Carriages and dress mark merit—this is the august canon in the Documents of Yu; titles and regalia must be granted with caution—the Spring and Autumn Annals state the warning plainly. What the Imperial Workshop fashions is strictly barred by Han law: if a feudatory lord steals such insignia, kinship itself will not spare him from punishment. In recent years the usurpation of rank from below has grown ever worse. Vessels, dress, ornament, music, dance, voice, and bearing now match those of princes and reach down to commoners. High and low are no longer distinguished, and public order loses its single standard. What this memorial proposes truly accords with ritual propriety. Though the nine-article code still has gaps, we respectfully add provisions until there are twenty-four articles in all. In the hall of business one may not sit facing south, nor deploy canopy curtains and screens. Feudatory officials at the winter court may not ascend the state hall barefoot, nor be flanked by state masters relaying orders or by oil-painted halberds. When princesses or princes' consorts relay orders, they may not wear vermilion dress. Carriages may not have double crossbars. Barrier fans may not bear pheasant-tail plumes. Swords may not have the curved "stag-path" hilt. Yak-tail ornaments on spear shafts may not use peacock or white-pheasant feathers. Squads flanking the carriage hub may not wear crimson jackets. Horses leading a ping-type light carriage may not exceed two. Hu performers may not wear colored robes. At the winter court, dancing girls may wear gui robes but may not wear elaborate face paint and floral veils. At the winter assembly, bell dance and cup-and-plate dance are forbidden. Long-stilt performers, Zhusu, ball-and-sword, Mount Bo, great-pole, and five-table ascent performers may not dance except at a formal winter assembly playing dance music. Consorts and princesses may not wear gun sashes. Trust banners: except for metropolitan offices, all must use crimson. Prefects, magistrates, and chief officials within a fief toward their enfeoffed lord: once they are no longer in the three bonds of service and have left office, they need not resume full obeisance or call themselves his subjects—only the courtesy between superior and subordinate officials is fitting. When feudatory princes travel on routine business, escort squads before and after the carriage may not exceed six; white-guard hub-flankers are exempt from this limit. Knives may not be mounted in materials beyond silver and copper. District ladies who are princes' daughters, consorts of princes' heirs who succeed as kings, and wives of enfeoffed marquises on formal progress may none of them use a guard of honor. When a prince's son succeeds as king, weddings, funerals, and omens follow the rites of feudatory dukes and marquises only, not those of imperial younger brothers or sons. Carriages may not use oiled banners; light post carriages are excepted. Ping-type boats and light carriages must have flat exposed ends, may not imitate dragon boats, and may not use vermilion lacquer. Palanquin valances may not be made in five-colored patterns or upright bamboo-shoot shapes. Objects already in violation must be surrendered to the imperial storehouse. Within twenty days of the document's arrival, anyone who keeps forbidden items or violates the ban, and any supervising office that fails to report it, will be punished as the case requires. The edict approved.
147
"Five hundred before the carriage" refers to a minister's traveling escort: five hundred men formed one brigade. After Han unified the realm, the men were removed but the name was kept.
148
輿殿殿
On yisi day in the eleventh month of the second year of Xiaojian under Emperor Xiaowu of Song, the relevant offices memorialized: "Attendant-in-Ordinary and Libationer He Yan proposed: 'Henceforth, when the emperor faces the throne hall in statutory dress, with the flaming canopy, mounting the hall should follow temple fasting practice: attendants flank the carriage; Attendants-in-Ordinary and Regular Attendants flank and support him up the hall; when it is necessary to rise for princes and dukes, they flank and support again; when finished, they return to their posts. We request detailed deliberation." Bureau Director Xu Ai offered a joint opinion: "The ministry's proposal should be adopted as the permanent standard." The edict approved.
149
輿
On renxu day in the fifth month of the third year of Xiaojian, the relevant offices memorialized: "Hu Guang and Cai Yong of Han both state that in antiquity feudatory lords had nine secondary carriages; when Qin extinguished the six states it absorbed their carriages and dress, so the king's great procession had eighty-one escort carriages. Directors of the Masters of Writing and the Imperial Secretary rode in them. The last carriage bore a suspended leopard tail. The statutory guard had thirty-six carriages. Examining Jin east of the Yangzi down to the present, when the imperial carriage travels, five escort carriages follow in succession." Director of the Masters of Writing Prince Hong of Pingping offered a joint opinion: "Eighty-one carriages symbolize the nine states; thirty-six have no classical basis—neither appears in the canon. From Yong and Guang onward it is transmitted lore; moreover, what Directors of Writing and the Imperial Secretary ride are follow-official carriages, not the emperor's proper escort count. Jiangzuo's five carriages are too austere and fall short of ritual. The Offices of Zhou states: 'The highest duke has nine orders and nine secondary carriages. Marquises and earls have seven orders and seven carriages. Viscounts and barons have five orders and five carriages.' Therefore the Son of Heaven and king should have twelve carriages." The edict approved.
150
On dingwei, the first day of the ninth month of the first year of Daming, the relevant offices memorialized: "No fixed number of escort carriages has been set for the Empress Dowager's travel; let the ritual offices deliberate and establish one." Erudite Wang Xiezhi offered an opinion: "In the Offices of Zhou, the queen's six robes and five carriages match the king's numbers; the escort-carriage rule should not stand apart. The Record also says: 'In antiquity the queen established six palaces, three consorts, nine concubines, twenty-seven world-wives, and eighty-one chief wives to govern inner affairs of the realm.' 'The Son of Heaven established six offices, three dukes, nine ministers, twenty-seven grandees, and eighty-one chief scholars to govern outer affairs of the realm.' Zheng's commentary says: 'The queen mirrors the king in establishing six palaces to dwell in, likewise one main chamber and five inner chambers.' What is established in each case matches the king; that ritual admits no lowering is clear. The Empress Dowager, equal in ritual to the utmost degree, should differ even less. We hold that she should likewise have twelve carriages." Passed through review as acceptable. The edict approved.
151
輿輿 輿
On wuchen day in the first month of the fourth year of Daming, Left Director of the Masters of Writing Xun Wanqiu memorialized: "The plowing-field regulations state: 'The emperor wears the Heaven-Penetrating Crown, vermilion tassel-cord, green kerchief, and green gauze robe. The Attendant-in-Ordinary rides as companion; the Director of the Imperial Carriage holds the reins.' The Han Treatise on Carriages and Dress says: 'The Heaven-Penetrating Crown is the imperial carriage's ordinary dress.' How can ordinary dress be used to descend to the thousand-mu field? The Record of Rites says: 'In former times the Son of Heaven plowed the thousand-mu field in coronet and vermilion tassel-cord, personally holding plow and hoe.' Zheng Xuan's commentary on the Offices of Zhou, Director of Dress, says: 'The six robes share the coronet'—from respect. Though seasonal dress changes, the coronet system does not. Pan Yue's Rhapsody on the Plowing Field also says: 'The Chief Minister rides as companion; the Grand Master of the Imperial Carriage holds the reins.' Inferring from this, for the plowing field the emperor should wear coronet with twelve jade beads, vermilion tassel-cord, black kerchief, and green gauze robe. The Chief Minister should ride as companion; the Grand Master of the Imperial Carriage should hold the reins. The ceremonial regulations should be revised to follow both rites as the fixed ceremony." The edict approved.
152
On jimao day in the first month of the fourth year of Daming, the relevant offices memorialized: "For the southern suburb, when the emperor personally presents offerings, the regulations state that he first wears the Level-Heaven Crown and robes with fire dragon and fu-fu patterns. On returning, he changes to the Heaven-Penetrating Crown and crimson gauze robe. For temple sacrifice when the emperor personally presents offerings, the old regulations matched the suburb for the initial dress, but on returning he changed to black kerchief and single robe for the service—contrary to proper form. We hold that on returning from the temple he should likewise change to the Heaven-Penetrating Crown and crimson gauze robe. The old regulations also used the golden-root carriage. Now that the five carriages are complete, ritual requires the jade carriage for sacrifice; the golden-root carriage should be changed to the jade carriage." The edict approved.
153
簿 簿
On renxu day in the eighth month of the sixth year of Daming, the relevant offices memorialized: "The Han ceremonial regulations state: 'Great guard of honor: dukes and ministers lead the way, the Grand General rides as companion, the Director of the Imperial Carriage drives. Statutory guard: the Attendant-in-Ordinary rides as companion, the Director of the Imperial Carriage drives.' Under Jin east of the Yangzi the great guard was not established, so suburban sacrifice used the statutory guard and the ancestral temple the small guard. As for ceremonial dress, the two guards did not differ. For tomb-visits, the emperor wore single robe and kerchief while accompanying officials wore only vermilion robes—also called the small guard; the name and reality were at odds. Earlier records show the great guard used for mounting tombs and the northern suburb. The Offices of Zhou show the ancestral temple descending from August Heaven; the great guard should serve suburban sacrifice, the statutory guard temple sacrifice, and the small guard tomb-visits—thus following proper order. Temple sacrifice is now changed to the statutory guard of honor; the number of military banners will be assigned as needed. His Majesty rides the jade carriage, with golden, elephant, leather, and wooden carriages, small palanquins, wheel carriages, imperial light carriages, robe carriages, book carriages, and the like as escorts. All else follows the usual regulations." The edict approved.
154
輿
On jiayin day in the second month of the seventh year of Daming, the emperor toured Southern Yu and Yan provinces in full ceremonial dress, riding the jade carriage and taking leave of the two ancestral temples. He then changed to the Heaven-Penetrating Crown, took the wood carriage, raised the great standard, and carried out the spring hunt rites.
155
退沿 沿 便
On jiaxu day in the fifth month of the fourth year of Taishi, Director of the Masters of Writing Prince Xiu Ren of Jian'an submitted a joint opinion: "A son of Heaven yields in rank to gentlemen; at the Imperial Academy no one is born to privilege. Once invested he is honored, and his ritual standing matches the highest duke. Under Zhou's five ranks, carriage and dress were graded together: a duke stood only one step below the king. The king granted the golden carriage to same-surname feudal lords and ivory, leather, or wood carriages to lords of other surnames; ministers at court followed the same rule. On that rule the Eastern Palace ought to ride the golden carriage. After Emperor Wu of Jin crossed the Yangzi, ritual grew careless; from kings and dukes down, carriage and dress were debased and confused; only the Eastern Palace remained exalted, second to the throne yet far above every feudal lord. Yet the crown prince rode the stone-mountain comfort carriage, a usage found in no classic and without any textual warrant. In ritual, "golden" and "jade" carriages mean only that gold and jade ornament the carriage's extremities. Left, right, front, and rear were all lacquered and painted alike. Qin reworked Zhou carriages into the golden-root type, sheathing all four sides in gold leaf. Han, Wei, and the two Jin dynasties followed suit without change. Not until the Daming era were the five carriages fully provided. The golden and jade types both resembled the golden-root carriage; at a glance they were nearly indistinguishable. To grant them to the heir apparent would be ritually excessive and would not heighten the throne or display proper gradations of majesty. Moreover the Spring and Autumn Annals teach lowering rank by two degrees, and subjects ought to observe modest restraint. The Eastern Palace's carriage and dress should stand two grades below the emperor: a four-horse team, the ivory carriage, and a nine-leaf jasper-green banner with descending dragons. It neither challenges the sovereign nor presses upon inferiors—anchored in antiquity yet tuned to the times, the proper balance of ritual. The edict approved. On jiayin day in the eighth month of the fourth year of Taishi, an edict read: "Carriage and dress ornamentation must follow symbolic numbers. Great emperors left models; successive sages handed down regulations. We have lately revised the five carriages, weighing antiquity against the present, completed the six robes, and adapted ritual to the age. Each occasion they serve has its own ordered provisions. Issue this abroad and record it in the canonical statutes. For suburban sacrifice to Heaven and joint sacrifice at the Bright Hall we wear the great mian with pure jade tassels, black upper robe and yellow lower robe, and ride the jade carriage. For sacrifice at the Grand Temple and the New Year's assembly of feudal lords we wear the statutory mian with five-color tassels, black upper robe and crimson lower robe, and ride the golden carriage. For minor assemblies and banquets, farewells to feudal lords, and audiences with kings and dukes before the throne we wear the adorned ceremonial crown with four-color tassels, purple upper robe and red lower robe, and ride the ivory carriage. For campaigns against recalcitrant lords, military reviews, and hunts we wear the embroidered mian with three-color tassels and vermilion robes and ride the leather carriage. For plowing the sacred field and feasting National University students we wear the hong mian with two-color tassels, green robes, and the wood carriage. The Heaven-Penetrating Crown and vermilion gauze robe serve as dress for conducting government."
156
On wuchen day in the first month of the sixth year of Taishi, the relevant offices memorialized: "By imperial order: should the crown prince wear gun-and-mian with the nine-emblem robe for the midwinter court congratulation?" Clerk of the Bureau of Rites Qiu Zhongqi argued: "The Offices of Zhou place dukes at gun-and-mian and below. Zheng Xuan comments: 'From gun-and-mian down to the dark mian of ministers and grandees—all are robes for audience and visiting the Son of Heaven.' Respectfully examining antiquity, even the highest duke of old could wear gun at court. As heir apparent, the crown prince is looked to by all within the realm. I hold that he should follow the great precedent and wear gun-and-mian with nine tassels for the congratulatory audience. Associate Left Director Lu Cheng argued: "Wearing the mian at court is expressly set out in the classics. Qin abolished the six crowns; only under Emperor Ming of Han did the court, with the ru scholars, restore the ancient wardrobe. From Wei and Jin onward, outside ancestral-temple rites the court kept subjects from gun-and-mian; hence men of ducal rank were repeatedly given attendant offices instead. Now the crown prince holds Heaven's deputy station, standing above all consorts; he should follow the sage kings' great precedent and cast off the shabby rules of recent times. We jointly submit that, by ritual, the crown prince at the New Year's congratulatory audience should wear gun-and-mian with the nine-emblem robe. Qiu Zhongqi's opinion is adopted. Compile and record it in the ceremonial regulations. The edict approved.
157
輿
When Emperor Fei took the throne, he honored his birth mother, Consort Chen, as Imperial Grand Consort; her carriage and dress followed the precedent of Emperor Xiaowu of Jin's grand consort. Only the Five-Ox Banner and the crimson banner were omitted.
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