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卷11 志第6 禮儀六

Volume 11 Treatises 6: Rites 6

Chapter 11 of 隋書 · Book of Sui
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1
Rites, Part Six
2
輿
Under Liang regulations, when the emperor performed suburban sacrifice to Heaven, sacrifice to Earth, rites at the Bright Hall, sacrifice at the ancestral temple, or the New Year's assembly at the imperial throne, he wore a black jie cap with the tongtian cap and flat crown—the so-called flat heaven cap. Its form was a black exterior with vermilion-green lining, seven cun wide and one chi two cun long, placed atop the tongtian cap. It hung four cun in front and three cun behind, round in front and square behind. White jade beads hung down in twelve tassels, their length reaching the shoulders. Silk cords served as the chin strap, each matching the color of its sash; yellow tassels hung at the sides, with jade plugs securing the bead strings. The robe was black above and cinnabar below, with three panels in front and four in back. The upper garment was painted; the lower skirt was embroidered. The robe bore the sun, moon, stars, mountain, dragon, embroidered insects, fire, and ancestral vessels, painted as ornament. The skirt bore waterweed, grain, rice, and the fu and fe patterns, worked as embroidery. In all, there were twelve emblems. A plain sash four cun wide, with vermilion lining and vermilion embroidered trim at the sides. The inner robe had cinnabar trim at the collar and sleeves. Red leather served as the knee cover—essentially the ancient fu. Cinnabar trousers and socks, with red shoes. He wore white jade at the belt, with a great sash of vermilion and yellow hanging down in four colors—yellow, red, light blue, and dark blue; a leather belt with sword, and a wrapped belt of cords matching the sash colors. A gold ward-off-evil head served as the belt buckle, ornamented with white jade beads. There was also the tongtian cap, nine cun high, with a gold Boshan ornament and shu in front, black jie cap, cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed inner robe, and black shoes—this was court dress. When New Year's congratulations were finished, he returned to the storehouse to change clothes and put on what he had brought out. For the libation sacrifice to the sage, he wore a black gauze robe, cinnabar-trimmed inner robe, cinnabar trousers and socks, and black shoes. At the imperial throne he also wore the dragon robe and crown; before receiving the capping ceremony, he wore the open-topped jie cap. When paying respects at the imperial tombs, he wore a single garment of fine cloth and a jie cap. There were also the five-ribbed advance-the-worthy cap, far-wandering cap, flat-top cap, and military cap. A single garment with black jie cap—worn at banquets.
3
A single garment and white cap replaced the ancient si mourning robe and leather cap as mourning dress; when ministers expressed mourning and attended funerals, they wore this.
4
輿輿
In the third year of Tianjian, He Tongzhi proposed: "Below the rank of duke and minister, sacrificial dress includes an inner robe—the present-day inner single garment. Examining the Later Han "Regulations of Carriages and Robes," in the second year of Yongping under Emperor Ming, an initial edict ordered the relevant offices to adopt the "Offices of Zhou," "Record of Rites," and "Documents" for imperial carriage and robe regulations, following Ouyang's interpretation; For robes below the rank of duke and minister, they followed the interpretations of the Elder and Younger Xiahou. For sacrificial dress, cinnabar trim at collar and sleeves served as the inner robe, with cinnabar trousers and socks, showing the red heart in serving the spirits. Now the inner robe has cinnabar trim, which is sufficiently clear in itself; there is no need for the trousers. Since this is not the sage's law, it should not be applied." Thereupon they followed the proposal and removed it.
5
In the fourth year, the relevant offices reported that one hundred five items such as the flat heaven cap, since Qi, had been destroyed piecemeal with the changing times, and it was unclear where they had been sent. He Tongzhi proposed: "The Rites say, 'When sacrificial robes are worn out, burn them.' Thereupon they were all burned and removed; the pearls and jade were handed over to the Central Secretariat.
6
𧍪 稿 稿
In the seventh year, Zhou She proposed: "The edict holds that the king's dragon robe should be painted with the phoenix, to show the gradation of rank. Examining the Rites: 'The Youyu clan wore the huang robe for sacrifice and deep robes for nurturing the aged. What Zheng Xuan called huang was the painting of phoenix feathers. Further examining the miscellaneous robes mentioned in the Rites, all are named by the garment, just as dragon robe and crown means dragon robe with crown. Clearly when Youyu speaks of huang, it is a garment name, not a crown—this is obvious. The intent to paint the phoenix is in fact clear." The regulation: "Approved." Also Wang Sengchong said: "In present sacrificial dress, the three dukes' robes have beasts painted on the body; at the waist and sleeves there are also green beasts, the same form as the beasts—the meaning should be the wei, that is, the ancestral vessel emblem. Each sleeve has a bird, resembling the luan and phoenix—seemingly the embroidered insect emblem. To paint the ancestral vessel emblem now is precisely the Rites of Zhou. But Zheng Xuan said: 'The wei is of the monkey kind, with upturned nose and long tail. It is a small light beast; it should not be depicted the same as the beasts. Searching the crown robes, there is no phoenix; it should be changed to pheasant. Also the skirt has round flowers, which in ritual is no obstacle—likely the painter added flourishes. Waterweed, grain, fu, and fe all depart from ancient regulations; we now request correction and removal of the round flowers." The emperor said: "In the ancient text, sun, moon, and stars—here one constellation emblem represents three things. Mountain, dragon, and embroidered insect—again one mountain emblem represents three things. Waterweed, fire, and grain—again one waterweed emblem represents three things. This makes nine emblems. Now the dragon robe is painted with dragons; it should accordingly be painted with phoenixes—this is clear. Kong Anguo said: 'Hua means flower. Then it is flower, not in doubt. If one uniformly paints pheasants, where shall the text of gradation be placed? Zheng's interpretation is what I cannot accept." Also the emperor said: "The Rites: 'When the king sacrifices to the Supreme God of Heaven, he wears the great fur robe and crown; sacrificing to the Five Emperors is the same. It also says: 'The comfort of rush matting, yet the use of rush fringe and straw padding. These all express utmost reverence without ornament, valuing sincerity and substance. Now at the suburban sacrifice earthenware and gourds are used, no different from antiquity, yet the great fur robe and rush straw padding alone are no longer preserved—in sincerity and reverence, I fear this is incomplete. Moreover, the first offering is substance; the sword and girdle ornaments and the crown robes worn by dukes and ministers can be jointly determined in detail." The Five Classics erudites Lu Wei and others all said: "Sacrificing to Heaven still preserves the substance of sweeping the ground, yet the robe insignia alone takes fu and fe as ornament—in meaning this is wrong. Now at the southern suburban spirit seats, all use rush mats—this alone is of the rush kind; the principle of plain substance is not fully realized. Straw padding should serve as the lower mat, and rush fringe as the upper mat. Also the "Director of Robes" says: 'When the king sacrifices to the Supreme Heaven, he wears the great fur robe'—showing that ministers' rites cannot be the same. Since Wei, all have used the dragon robe; we now request following antiquity and newly making the great fur robe." The regulation: "Approved." Wei and others further searched the regulations for the great fur robe; only Zheng Xuan's commentary on the "Director of Robes" says "great fur robe, lamb fur robe"—since there is no source, it cannot serve as evidence. Examining the six crown robes, all are black above and vermilion below. Now it should be made of black silk. Its form like a fur robe, its skirt vermilion, all without patterned embroidery. The crown then has no tassels. Edict: "Approved."
7
輿
Also at imperial banquets, he wore a single garment and black jie cap. Formerly at the third- and ninth-day minor assemblies, when first going out he rode the gold chariot and wore this.
8
In the eighth year, the emperor changed so that going and returning he always rode the palanquin and wore a white gauze cap.
9
·
In the ninth year, Sima Yun and others deliberated: "The "Record of Rites · Jade Ornaments" says: 'Feudal lords wear the dark crown to sacrifice and the supplementary crown for court. The "Miscellaneous Records" also say: 'Grand masters wear the crown to sacrifice for the lord and the cap to sacrifice for themselves. Today's Masters of Writing are above feudal lords and dukes in rank but below ministers and knights; they have only court dress and originally no crown robes. But since they participate in fasting sacrifice, they cannot remain together at court; they should follow the precedent of the Director of Ceremonial Affairs and erudite fasting officers, wearing black robes, cinnabar trim, inner single garment, and bamboo-leaf cap. If they do not personally attend, they need not enter the temple." The emperor followed this.
10
In the eleventh year, the Masters of Writing deliberated: "Examining the Rites, bare feet and socks are for leisurely sitting; shoes should not be displayed beside honored persons. Now in places of utmost reverence, all go barefoot. The Pure Temple is solemn and strict, already departing from ordinary rites; all who walk there should go barefoot in socks." Edict: "Approved."
11
鹿
The crown prince: gold seal with turtle knob, vermilion sash, three hundred twenty tassel court dress, far-wandering cap, gold Boshan, wearing fine jade with emerald tassel, hanging cords, vermilion robe, cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed white gauze inner robe, white curved collar, wearing the Lulu sword, fire-pearl head, plain leather belt, jade hook clasp, and beast-head purse. At major and minor assemblies, temple sacrifice, first of the month and full moon, and the fifth-day return to court, all wore court dress; when regularly returning to the upper palace, vermilion dress. For the libation sacrifice, the far-wandering cap, dark court dress, cinnabar-trimmed inner single garment, cinnabar trousers and socks, and dark shoes. For lectures, he wore the jie cap. There was also the three-ribbed advance-the-worthy cap. When attending sacrifice, the flat crown with nine tassels, dragon robe with nine emblems, white gauze cinnabar-trimmed inner single garment, cinnabar silk knee cover, red shoes, and cinnabar leggings. When receiving the capping ceremony, the palace attendant held the crown and followed. The crown prince formerly had five-season court dress; after Tianjian he wore vermilion dress. In the upper secretariat he wore a black cap; in the Yongfu secretariat a white cap.
12
Princes: gold seal with turtle knob, light vermilion sash, one hundred sixty tassel court dress, far-wandering cap, jie cap, vermilion robe, cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed inner robe, plain sash, and black shoes. Wearing mountain dark jade, hanging cords, great sash, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist. If holding additional offices, he wore the robe of the added office.
13
A duke who founded a state: gold seal with turtle knob, dark vermilion sash, one hundred forty tassel court dress, gauze vermilion robe, advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
14
A duke and marquis who founded a state: gold seal with turtle knob, blue vermilion sash, one hundred twenty tassel court dress, gauze vermilion robe, advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
15
A viscount and baron who founded a state: gold seal with turtle knob, blue sash, one hundred tassel court dress, gauze vermilion robe, advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
16
District, township, pavilion, within-the-pass, within-the-center, and nominal marquis: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist. Within-the-pass, within-the-center, and nominal marquis had gui knobs.
17
A marquis outside the pass: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
18
The heir of a prince: gold seal with gui knob, purple sash, eighty tassel court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing mountain dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
19
The heir of a duke and marquis who founded a state: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, eighty tassel court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
20
The Grand Preceptor, Grand Tutor, Grand Guardian, Minister over the Masses, and Minister of Works: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel court dress, advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, wearing mountain dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist. The "Chen Order" adds Chancellor and Prime Minister, with the same dress regulations.
21
The Grand Marshal, Grand General, Grand Commandant, and those of equal rank with the lords: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel court dress, military cap, wearing mountain dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist. Direct generals did not carry swords.
22
祿
For all lords and those of equal rank with lords, the text uses general and left-right Supervisors of the Household and Commissioner with Equal Protocol as titles, each following their original rank title. The inscription then reads "Seal of Commissioner with Equal Protocol of such-and-such rank title." Feudal lords of five ranks, when assisting at suburban and temple sacrifice, all wore the flat crown with nine tassels, blue jade as beads, with front but no back. Each used the color of his sash for the cord chin strap; yellow tassels hung at the sides. Robe: black above and vermilion below, painted with mountain and dragon down through nine emblems, with five colors complete, great girdle ornaments, red shoes, and knotted shoes. The Director of the Masters of Writing had no insignia or sash rank; he oversaw all duties through other offices and wore the robes of those offices, yet still held the tablet and purple satchel. When at the capital seat, he sat at the east, highest.
23
The Director, Vice Director, and Masters of Writing: bronze seal with black sash, court dress, remonstrance cap and advance-the-worthy cap, wearing water-dark jade; Masters of Writing had no seal sash or waist sword, purple satchel, and held the tablet. In Chen, the Director and Vice Director of the Masters of Writing: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel, beast-head purse. Masters of Writing had no seal sash or purse. The rest all followed Liang.
24
殿輿
Attendant-in-Ordinary, Regular Attendant of the Secretariat, Regular Attendant of Direct Communication, and Extra Attendant of the Secretariat: court dress, military cap with sable tail; Attendant-in-Ordinary inserted left, Regular Attendants inserted right. All wore swords at the waist and water-dark jade. Extra Attendants of the Secretariat were not given girdle ornaments; formerly at the emperor's court assembly ascending the hall, Attendants-in-Ordinary and Regular Attendants flanked the imperial carriage; when the emperor descended, they supported left and right. When the Attendant-in-Ordinary rode as outrider, he did not carry a sword.
25
Supervisor and Director of the Secretariat, Supervisor of the Secretariat: bronze seal with black sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, waist sword, and beast-head purse. Chen regulations: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, eighty tassel, beast-head purse, and waist sword. The rest followed Liang.
26
祿 祿祿
Left and Right Supervisors of the Household all followed those with added gold seal and purple sash. Those with only added gold and purple were called Supervisor of the Household with Gold and Purple; those with only added silver and blue were called Supervisor of the Household. The "Chen Order" has Special Advance: advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, court dress, wearing water-dark jade, waist sword—the "Liang Order" does not record this.
27
祿祿
Supervisor of the Household, Grand Master of Palace Counsel, Palace Counsel, Director of Ceremonial Affairs, Supervisor of the Household, Director of Instruction, Director of the Imperial Stud, Director of Justice, Director of the Imperial Clan, Director of Grand Ceremonies, Director of the Grand Granary, Director of the Palace Treasury, Director of the Imperial Manufactories, all ministers, Governor of Danyang, Crown Prince Tutor and Mentor, Director of the Palace Domestic Service, and Crown Prince Household Superintendent: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade. When ministers and grand masters assisted at sacrifice, they wore the flat crown with five tassels, black jade as beads, with front but no back. Each used the colors of his sash for the cord chin strap; yellow tassels hung at the sides. Robe: black above and vermilion below, painted with embroidered insects in seven emblems, all wearing five-color great girdle ornaments, red shoes, and knotted shoes. Chen palace ministers changed to Yun Cixun; the rest all followed Liang. There was also the Director of the Grand Canal, with the same dress insignia.
28
General of Agile Cavalry, General of Chariots and Cavalry, General of the Guard, Central Army, General Who Conquers, General Who Assists the State, and General of the Four Directions and Central Commandant: gold seal with purple sash; the Central Commandant had a blue sash. Court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade. The "Chen Order": Garrison, Guard, Agile Cavalry, Chariots and Cavalry, Central Army, Central Guard, Central Pacification Army, Central Authority Army, Four Campaign, Four Garrison, Four Pacification, Four Support, and Four Pacification generals: gold seal with beast knob. The General Who Conquers and Central Commandants of the Four Directions: gold seal with leopard knob, all purple sash, eighty tassel, beast-head purse, court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade. From the Central Army down, all generals and the General Who Conquers and Central Commandants of the Four Directions—the office did not provide girdle ornaments.
29
Commander and Protector of the Army, Central Commander and Protector of the Army, and Five Camps Commandants: silver seal with blue sash, court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade, and beast-head purse. For the Cavalry Camp, on days flanking the imperial carriage, girdle ornaments were temporarily provided; the other camps were not. The "Chen Order": Commander and Protector, gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel. Central Commander and Protector: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, eighty tassel. The Five Camps Commandants: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, eighty tassel. The office did not provide girdle ornaments. The rest all followed Liang.
30
Director of Instruction of the Guard, Director of the Guard, Chen palace minister Yun Cixun—dress like other ministers, but with military cap. Director of the Imperial Censorate—Chen had no official dress. Left and Right Guard, Agile Cavalry, Mobile Strike, Forward, Left, Right, and Rear Army generals, Dragon Might, Pacify the North, Establish Might, Quell Might, Exert Might, Raise Might, Broad Might, Martial Might, Establish Martial, Quell Martial, Exert Martial, Raise Martial, and Broad Martial generals, Strong Crossbow, Accumulated Shot, and Powerful Crossbow generals, and Army Supervisor: silver seal with blue sash, court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade, and beast-head gui. From Agile Cavalry and Mobile Strike down, all were not given girdle ornaments. Agile Cavalry and Mobile Strike on attendant days were temporarily provided. The "Chen Order": Left and Right Guard, silver seal with turtle knob, no sword provided. Left and Right Agile Cavalry, Mobile Strike, Cloud Cavalry, Mobile Cavalry, Forward, Left, Right, and Rear Army generors, and Left and Right Central Commandants: silver seal with gui knob. The rest of dress and ornaments followed Liang; the office also did not provide girdle ornaments. Agile Cavalry, Mobile Strike, and Cloud Cavalry on attendant days were temporarily provided. Strong Crossbow, Accumulated Shot, and Powerful Crossbow: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, carrying sword. The rest of dress followed Liang. Also Loyal Martial, Military Advisor, Martial Minister, Talon and Fang, Dragon Cavalry, Cloud Banner, Garrison Troops, Assist Commander, Spread Grace, Spread Resolution, Wise Might, Benevolent Might, Brave Might, Trustworthy Might, Stern Might, Wise Martial, Benevolent Martial, Brave Martial, Trustworthy Martial, and Stern Martial: gold seal with leopard knob, purple sash, eighty tassel. The office did not provide. Light Chariot, Garrison the North, Martial Brigade, Steadfast Resolution, Bright Might, Pacify the Distance, Secure the Distance, Campaign the Distance, Quell the Distance, Proclaim the Distance, and other generals: gold seal with bear knob, purple sash, all beast-head purse, court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade.
31
Director of the Imperial Academy: black court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade.
32
使
Imperial Censor and Director of Waterways: silver seal, black sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, beast-head purse, waist sword, wearing water-dark jade. Chen Imperial Censor: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, eighty tassel, two-ribbed cap. The rest followed Liang. For the Director of Waterways, Chen and Liang changed to Director of the Grand Canal; dress is seen among the ministers.
33
Director of the Masters of Ceremonies: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, eighty tassel. Court dress, lofty mountain cap, beast-head purse, wearing water-dark jade, and waist sword.
34
All army supervisors: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, court dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
35
Gentlemen-at-the-Palace, Yellow Gate Attendant, Regular Attendant of Direct Communication Extra, Regular Attendant of the Secretariat, Court Gentlemen, Crown Prince Central Palace Attendant, Attendant, Martial Guard General, and Martial Cavalry Regular Attendant: court dress, military cap, and waist sword. The "Chen Order": from Attendant up, all wore writing brush in the hair. The Martial Guard had no sword; when standing upright flanking the imperial carriage, white cloth jacket-trousers.
36
Attendant of the Secretariat: court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and waist sword. Supernumerary Attendant-in-Ordinary and Crown Prince Guard Commander: bronze seal, black sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap. Chen Guard Commander: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, no sword. Supernumerary Attendant: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, and waist sword. The rest all followed Liang.
37
簿
Martial Guard Central Commandant and Forest Guard Supervisor: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, military cap, beast-head purse, and waist sword. When at the imperial stair and preparing the guard of honor, they wore yak-tail ornaments and cinnabar gauze patterned single garment.
38
西 西
Protector of the Xiongnu Central Commandant and Protectors of the Qiang, Rong, Yi, Man, Yue, Wuhuan, and Western Regions Commandants: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, court dress, military cap, and beast-head purse. The "Chen Order" has no such office. For Attendants, Pacify the Barbarians, Pacify the Barbarians, Pacify the Rong, Western Rong Commandants, and Pacify the Yue Central Commandant—dress insignia the same.
39
Pacify the Yi and Pacify the Yi Protectors of the Army, prefectural and commandery and state Commandants, Chariot Attendant, Imperial Son-in-Law, Cavalry Commandant, and all Protectors of the Army: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap. Chen Secure the Distance, Pacify the Barbarians Protectors of the Army, prefectural, commandery, and state Commandants, Chariot Attendant, Imperial Son-in-Law, Cavalry Commandant, and all Protectors of the Army—dress insignia the same. No further text.
40
Prefectural governor: bronze seal, black sash, beast-head purse, waist sword, cinnabar court dress, and advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap. Chen: bronze seal with turtle knob, blue sash. The rest followed Liang.
41
Commandery and state grand administrator, chancellor, and inner steward: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, single garment, and jie cap. With added rank of palace attendant of two thousand shi, they followed the cap, dress, sword, and girdle ornaments of ministers and governors.
42
Left and Right Assistant Directors of the Masters of Writing and Secretariat Assistant: bronze seal with ring knob, yellow sash, beast-claw purse, court dress, and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
43
Masters of Writing, Secretariat Compiler, Crown Prince Central Palace Attendant, Groom of the Heir, and Attendant: court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and waist sword.
44
Friends and Literary Scholars of princes: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. The "Chen Order": tutors of princes had the same dress.
45
殿
Imperial Censor and Attending Censor: court dress, waist sword, and law cap. The Imperial Censor had a bronze seal with ring knob and black sash. Chen also had Attending Censors of the Palace and Orchid Terrace: court dress, law cap, waist sword, and writing brush in the hair.
46
All erudites were given black court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, and water-dark jade.
47
Erudites of the Imperial Academy: regular quota of eight persons wore girdle ornaments; six outside quota were not given.
48
The Erudite of Law at the Court of Justice had no girdle ornament. All wore writing brush in the hair.
49
Assistant Erudite of the Imperial Academy: black court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and writing brush in the hair.
50
Chief Clerk of a ducal office: beast-head purse. Assistant directors of ministers and governors: yellow sash, beast-claw purse, and writing brush in the hair.
51
Magistrates of various county offices with rank of one thousand shi: beast-claw purse, bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, and advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap. Chief Clerks wore vermilion dress; assistant directors of ministers and governors and the Magistrate of Jiankang wore dark dress.
52
簿
Staff and chief clerks of ducal offices and libation officers: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Record clerks of ducal offices likewise.
53
Chief Clerk of the Commander and Protector of the Army: vermilion dress and beast-head purse. Chief Clerks of various armies: single garment, jie cap, and beast-head purse.
54
Department assistants and prison assistants of various ministers: all black court dress, one-ribbed cap, yellow sash, beast-claw purse, and writing brush in the hair.
55
Assistants to the Crown Prince Tutor, Mentor, and Household Superintendent: morning court dress, one-ribbed cap, writing brush in the hair, beast-claw purse, and yellow sash.
56
Chancellors, inner steward assistants, and chief clerks of commanderies and states: single garment and jie cap. Chief Clerks wore beast-head purse; assistants wore yellow sash and beast-claw purse.
57
Magistrates, chiefs, and chancellors of various county offices: single garment, jie cap, beast-head purse, bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Directors of various offices: vermilion robe and military cap. Grand Rectifiers of prefectures and commanderies and commandery Rectifiers: single garment and jie cap.
58
Gate Grand Master of the Crown Prince wore beast-head purse; Directors and Chiefs of Mausoleums wore beast-claw purse, bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Magistrates and chiefs wore vermilion dress; the Director of Ceremonial Affairs, Director of the Household, and Attendants wore court dress, two-ribbed cap, beast-head purse, and waist sword.
59
Directors, Attendants, chiefs, and assistants of Yellow Gate offices: vermilion dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, bronze seal with ring knob, and black sash. Assistants wore yellow sash. Supernumerary Attendant-in-Ordinary Supervisor and Crown Prince Palace Attendant Supervisor: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
60
Marshal of ducal office, Marshal of Commander and Protector of the Army, army marshals, and chief clerks and marshals of the Protector of the Xiongnu Central Commandant and Protectors of Qiang, Rong, Yi, Man, Yue, Wuhuan, and Wuji Commandants: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap. Army marshals: single garment and flat-top cap. Chief Clerk wore jie cap. The "Chen Order": Marshal of ducal office, Marshal of Commander and Protector of the Army, army marshals, Pacify the Barbarians and Secure the Distance Protectors of the Army, and chief clerks and marshals of Barbarian, Rong, and Yue Commandants and Central Commandants—dress insignia same as Liang offices.
61
簿
Gentleman-attendant of ducal office: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Merit officer and chief clerk of generals who opened offices: single garment, jie cap, and leather belt. Director of Justice and Director and Supervisor of Jiankang: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, black zero-pi, court dress, law cap, and beast-claw purse.
62
Left and Right Guard marshals: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, single garment, belt, flat-top cap, and beast-head purse.
63
Staff of various offices: single garment and flat-top cap.
64
簿西
Separate Chariot, Administrator, Staff, Chief Clerk, and Western Bureau Staff of various prefectures: dark court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and writing brush in the hair. For regular business: single garment, jie cap, and vermilion robe.
65
Direct Gate General: vermilion dress, military cap, bronze seal with gui knob, blue sash, and beast-head purse.
66
殿
Direct Gate General and hall commanders of various halls: vermilion dress and military cap. Upright attendants wore cinnabar shirt; followers wore rain-cape shirt.
67
Directors of the Interior, Grand Agriculture, Duke, and Tutor Central Commandant of various founding states: bronze seal with ring knob, blue sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap; Central Commandants wore military cap—all with beast-head purse.
68
Three Generals of various founding states: bronze seal with ring knob, blue sash, court dress, and military cap. Those outside quota were not given seals. Chen regulations: black sash; the rest all followed Liang.
69
Central Commandant of Records of founding states, Marshal, Mausoleum Food Officer, Stable and Pasture Chief, and Assistant Directors of Medical and Treasury Bureaus: bronze seal.
70
Regular Attendants, Attendants, Heirs, Attendants, Grand Masters, Attendants, and Gentlemen were not given seals. Directors of Records, Sacrifice, and Academy and Assistant Directors of Food and Chiefs: bronze seal. Those outside quota were not given seals.
71
Left and Right Regular Attendants and Attendants and Central Commandant and Marshal of Guard Bureau: court dress and military cap. Directors of Records, Sacrifice, and Academy: court dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. The rest all wore vermilion dress and one-ribbed cap. Regular Attendants, Attendants, and Directors of Records, Sacrifice, and Academy: writing brush in the hair and waist sword.
72
Assistants to Crown Prince Guard Commander, Director of Ceremonial Affairs, and Director of the Household: bronze seal with ring knob, yellow sash, black court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and beast-claw purse.
73
Crown Prince Regular Attendant Martial Guard Commander: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, military cap, and beast-claw purse.
74
殿
Palace General and Extra General: vermilion dress and military cap.
75
Marshal of prefectural, commandery, and state Commandant: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, vermilion dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
76
All Masters of Ceremonies: court dress and lofty mountain cap.
77
Gentlemen-at-the-Palace of Secretariat Attendants, gate record clerks, chief record clerks, gate court bureau record clerks, Crown Prince gate Attendants, chief record keepers, and palace attendants of both palaces and left-right bureau attendants and above: vermilion dress and military cap.
78
殿殿
Supervisors inside and outside the palace, Crown Prince inside and outside supervisors, and palace attendants: bronze seal with ring knob, vermilion dress, and military cap.
79
使 殿
Record clerks of inside and outside supervisors: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Inside supervisor court attendants leading bureau affairs and outside supervisor commanding army units deliberating and dispatching bureau affairs: military cap. Outside supervisors and record clerks all wore vermilion robes; only upright attendants and fasting supervisors on assignment were excepted. Eastern Palace inside and outside supervisors and hall record clerks followed the secretariat standard. Chief clerks of Five Camps and Three Generals, inside supervisor chief clerks, outside supervisor chief clerks, and Three Camps chief clerks: vermilion dress and military cap.
80
殿
Chief record clerks of the Masters of Writing, Waterways staff, gate record clerks, record clerks of Collection, Secretariat, Masters of Writing, Secretariat Compiler, Director and Attendant record clerks, Orchid Terrace, Palace Orchid Terrace, Masters of Ceremonies, and Waterways record clerks, ducal office record clerks, Crown Prince ushers, secondary ushers, attendants, and record clerks of various bureaus: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
81
Calculators of the Masters of Writing, Revenue calculators, and left-right workshop clerks: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
82
Assistants of various county offices, Crown Prince office assistants, and assistants of dukes, marquises, and princess household directors and attendants: bronze seal with ring knob, yellow sash, vermilion dress, and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Assistants of Grand Food and Grand Medical Bureaus: military cap.
83
簿 簿
Commandants of various counties: bronze seal with ring knob, single garment, jie cap, yellow sash, and beast-claw purse. Protocol Cavalry Officer: vermilion dress and military cap. When in the imperial stair ranks and preparing the guard of honor: yak-tail ornament and cinnabar gauze patterned single garment. Protocol Officer and Yellow Battle-Axe Officer: court dress, red jie cap, and writing brush in the hair. Directors of ceremony, alarm, announcement, weapon-bearing, banner, and other offices—for official business and preparing the guard of honor: vermilion dress and military cap.
84
殿
Palace Central Commandant, Commandant, and Commandant: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, vermilion dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
85
Gate Marquis: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, vermilion dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
86
Unit Supervisor, Marshal Clerk, and Unit Commander: bronze seal with ring knob, vermilion dress, and military cap. Marshal Clerk temporarily wore black sash and beast-claw purse.
87
Grand Master of Palace Counsel, Palace Counsel, Remonstrance and Policy Grand Master, Consultant, Central Commandant, Attendant, and Gentlemen: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
88
Gate Attendants, Attendants-in-Ordinary, and assistants and Eastern Palace gate clerks—the Attendants wore vermilion dress; Attendants-in-Ordinary wore black zero-pi and court dress with advance-the-worthy cap; clerks wore quefei cap; assistants wore advance-the-worthy cap.
89
Director of Music and Harmonizer: bronze seal with ring knob, mugwort sash, beast-claw purse, vermilion dress, and military cap.
90
Yellow Gate rear pavilion attendants, chief clerks, fasting commanders, food supervisors, chief food officers, chief guests, attendants, and musicians: vermilion dress and military cap. Musicians wore advance-the-worthy cap; fasting commanders wore black sash and beast-head purse.
91
殿
Palace Marshal: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, vermilion dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
92
Director of Music and Music Supervisor: bronze seal with ring knob, mugwort sash, vermilion dress, and military cap.
93
滿滿
All fourth-rank generals commanding troops, Gate General, Chongyi, Material Officer, Break Difficulty, Light Cavalry, Raise Fury, Prestige the Distance, Pacify the Distance, Spread Might, Bright Might, Exalt Might, Prestige the Barbarian, Pacify the Barbarian, Secure the Distance, Secure the Di, Secure the Border, Secure the Rong, Beast Might, Martial Prestige, Fierce Martial, Exert Martial, Campaign the Bandit, Campaign the Barbarian, Destroy Difficulty, Campaign Difficulty, Campaign the Yi, Stern Martial, Traverse the Wild, Overlook the River, Eagle Raise, Capture Interrogation, Sweep the Bandit, Sweep the Barbarian, Sweep Difficulty, Sweep the Rebel, Destroy the Barbarian, Sweep the Barbarian, Sweep Difficulty, Sweep the Rebel, Sweep the Bandit, Sharp Edge, Martial Exertion, Martial Fang, and Broad Wild—with command of fifty troops or more, silver seal given; under fifty, appointment plaque only, no seal; vermilion dress and military cap. When this office served as prefectural governor or grand administrator, all had blue sash. From this entry down, all are Chen regulations, different from Liang.
94
殿 殿 殿
Ceremony Director but Commander and Ceremony Director Regular Commander: vermilion robe and military cap. Those whose original rank included Palace but and Regular Commander could wear mugwort sash and beast-head purse. Palace but Commander and Regular Commander: mugwort sash, beast-head purse, vermilion dress, and military cap. Hall Commander, Feather Ceremony Commander, and Extra Commander: vermilion robe and military cap.
95
Ten Prestige generals of Prestige, Fierce, Fury, Quell, Trust, Overcome, Strategy, Wind, Strength, and Bright, and ten Martial generars of Martial Fierce, Strategy, Overcome, Strength, Resolution, Vigorous, Fury, Prestige, Sharp, and Brave: all silver seal with bear knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, military cap, and court dress.
96
駿
Ten Fierce generals of Fierce Resolution, Fury, Prestige, Sharp, Quell, Advance, Wisdom, Martial, Overcome, and Steed: silver seal with bear knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, military cap, and court dress.
97
Ten Robust generals, ten Valiant generals, and ten Heroic generals: all silver seal with lamb knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, military cap, and court dress.
98
鹿
Ten Loyal generals, ten Bright generals, ten Bright generals, and ten Gale generals: all silver seal with deer knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, military cap, and court dress.
99
Thirty titled generals from Dragon Might through Quell the Brigade: silver seal with rabbit knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap.
100
Thirty titled generals from Super Martial through Gallop and Shoot: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap. All twelve-item left generals—all temporarily given seals and sashes with appointment; with plaque only, vermilion dress and military cap. Meritorious selection appointments also received seals.
101
Establish Might, Gate, Period Gate, and below generals: all bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, beast-head purse, vermilion dress, and military cap. With plaque only, no seal or sash—cap and dress only. When in general offices advancing by merit, if appointed Establish Might and below titles, not limited to plaque appointment—all were given seal and sash. If military officers advanced by office, ascending to ninth-rank Gallop and Shoot and above military titles, also not limited to plaque appointment—all were given seal and sash.
102
Thousand-man Supervisor, Camp Supervisor Marshal, Martial Guard Supervisor, Gate General, Cavalry Supervisor, Garrison General Commandant, Crown Prince Regular Attendant Supervisor Separate Unit Marshal, and Acting Marshal: temporarily bronze seal with ring knob, vermilion dress, military cap, black sash, and beast-head purse.
103
Martial Fierce Central Commandant, Commandant, and Commandant: bronze seal with ring knob, vermilion dress, and military cap. When this office served as thousand-man Marshal, Protocol Guard Supervisor and above, and Marshal—all temporarily black sash and beast-head purse. Above are Chen regulations; what Liang lacked or differed.
104
簿
Stair Chief, Halberd Attendant-in-Ordinary, Chief Clerk General Cavalry, and Court Five-Ox Banner Acting Clerk Martial Guard—when in imperial stair ranks and preparing the guard of honor: brocade-pattern robe, military cap, and yak-tail ornament. Stair Chief temporarily wore bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, and beast-head purse.
105
簿 輿
Acting Plume Head Forest Guard—when in imperial stair ranks and preparing the guard of honor: cinnabar single garment, upper leather-painted waist jacket, and acting plume head. Palanquin, Trace Bird, Forward Scout, and Youji Strong Crossbow marshals: given cinnabar-pattern single garment and military cap. Those whose original rank bore Martial Fierce Commandant and above seals temporarily black sash; Separate Unit Marshal and below temporarily black sash—all with beast-head purse.
106
殿殿
Palace Supernumerary Martial Guard, Palace Martial Guard, and Halberd-bearing Supernumerary Martial Guard: temporarily blue sash, cinnabar-pattern single garment, and military cap. The Chen Order: cinnabar-pattern single garment; those whose original office bore Martial Fierce, Commandant, and other seals temporarily wore purse and sash per the previous entry.
107
殿
Mace-bearing Martial Cavalry Martial Guard, Five-Cavalry Protocol Martial Guard, Palace Forest Guard, Grand Food Palace Martial Guard, Food Server, and various palace Food Martial Guard: temporarily black sash, given cinnabar collar, and military cap. Those bearing Martial Fierce, Commandant, and other rank seals all followed the above temporary purse and sash precedent.
108
簿
When in imperial stair ranks and preparing the guard of honor, Five-Cavalry Martial Guard wore brocade-pattern robe and yak-tail ornament. Food servers wore lychee garment. Army Commander blade-bearers: black felt cap, jacket-trousers, and leather belt.
109
使殿殿使
Feather-canopy feathered drummers all changed to advance-the-worthy cap, externally given feather ties. Drummers wore military cap. Drummers of various offices, secretariat corridor attendants, palace martial guard regular attendants, gate outriders, protocol outriders, Orchid Terrace attendants, Waterways attendants, and Masters of Ceremonies outriders: cinnabar headband, military cap, dress as before. Grand Who and Heaven Gate Guard: black-pattern single garment and Fan Kuai cap. Guard soldiers: black-cloth headband and enemy-repelling cap.
110
使
Generals, Bearer of Staff and Seal, and Supervisors holding staff clerks: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. From this entry down, all are Chen regulations; what Liang lacked.
111
使
Staff Bearer clerks: single garment and jie cap. When gathering troops for alert, same as Bearer of Staff and Seal. Acting Staff clerks: single garment and jie cap. All staff bases were made of stone. Bearer of Staff all carved as purse-dragon form; Acting Staff and staff for barbarians all carved as dog-head base.
112
Princes' Record Commanders: single garment and flat-top cap. Record clerks: jacket-trousers and flat-top cap.
113
Princes' record assistants: single garment and jie cap.
114
Ducal office record assistants: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy cap.
115
Princes' household Attendants, Administrator, Masters of Ceremonies, pavilion record clerks, and Central Guard Commandant: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Administrator temporarily bronze seal; Masters of Ceremonies wore lofty mountain cap; record clerks and below wore military cap.
116
簿
Crown Prince Grand Tutor Five Offices Merit Officer and Chief Clerk: black court dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
117
Crown Prince Second Tutor gate record clerks, secretariat tent Supervisor, Law Bureau record assistants, and Grand Tutor external Supervisor: black robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
118
Crown Prince consort Household Director: cinnabar court dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
119
殿
Crown Prince Three Camps and Two Generals and Strong Crossbow and Palace Generals—dress all same as upper palace officers.
120
Crown Prince regular Marshals and Supervisors and various inside attendants: vermilion robe and military cap.
121
Various ducal office attendants, Director of Masters of Writing managing affairs, Crown Prince gate assistants and record clerks, and various gate clerks: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
122
Crown Prince consort protocol bearer: vermilion robe, military cap, holding blade, and black signal banner.
123
殿殿殿殿使 輿使
Crown Prince Second Tutor cavalry clerks: dark robe, red headband, and military cap; for regular travel, jacket-trousers. Ceremony bearers, fasting commanders, hall commanders, protocol bearers, weapon and canopy bearers, chariot attendants, food marshals, and drum commander deputies: military cap and cinnabar collar. Yoke handlers, small palanquin, chariot attendants, and light chariot attendants: flat-top cap, yellow cloth jacket-trousers, and red felt belt.
124
Crown Prince various gate generals: black-cloth headband and Fan Kuai cap.
125
簿
Crown Prince guard of honor halberd clerks: red headband, military cap, and cinnabar collar. Line commanders, array formation, and forbidden defense: flat-top cap and white cloth jacket-trousers. Five-tone commanders and long banners: blue cloth jacket-trousers, Cen cap, and cinnabar braided belt. Squad leaders: flat-top cap and yellow cloth jacket-trousers.
126
Civil bureau attendants: white gauze single garment and jie cap. Masters of Writing Two Bureaus attendants likewise.
127
使
Military bureau inquiry, soldiers, and attendants: flat-top cap and white cloth jacket-trousers.
128
輿
Tongtian cap, nine cun high, upright peak, slightly slanting back then straight down, iron as rolled beam, front has extended tube, before cap added gold Boshan and shu. What the emperor regularly wore.
129
Far-wandering cap, form like tongtian but front without mountain and shu, with extended tube horizontal before cap. Crown Prince and princes' heirs and all princes wore it. Princes with added offices wore their added office's cap and dress; only the Crown Prince and princes' heirs regularly wore this cap. The Crown Prince used kingfisher feathers as tassel, strung with white pearls. The rest only blue silk.
130
Advance-the-worthy cap, ancient dark cloth cap vestige—this is essentially the dress of literary scholars. Front seven cun high, rear three cun high, eight cun long. There were five-ribbed, three-ribbed, two-ribbed, and one-ribbed distinctions. Five-ribbed only the Son of Heaven wore; three-ribbed and below marked ministers' high and low distinction.
131
Military cap, also called military cap, great cap, dense cap, and establishment cap—people today call it cage cap, the ancient Huiwen cap. The Son of Heaven's capping ceremony also first added great cap. Now left-right attendants and all generals and military officers universally wore it. Attendant-in-Ordinary and Regular Attendant then added gold ornament with cicada and sable tail inserted, gold as ornament.
132
Lofty mountain cap, also called side-pour, nine cun high, iron as rolled beam. Form like tongtian, peak straight upright, not slanting, no mountain shu extended tube. Lofty mountain—taking dignified distance; inner and outer Masters of Ceremonies Attendants-in-Ordinary wore it.
133
Law cap, also called pillar-back, also called xiezhi cap, five cun high, using cord as extended tube, iron as pillar roll—taking not bending. Attending Censor, Director of Justice Director and Supervisor, and all law-enforcing officers wore it.
134
簿
He cap, like great cap, adding double he tail, vertically inserted both sides—hence the name. Martial Guard Central Commandant, Forest Guard Supervisor, and Protocol Cavalry Officer—when in imperial stair ranks and guard of honor wore it.
135
綿
Long cap, also called fasting cap. Seven cun high, three cun wide, made of lacquered cord. Form like board, bamboo as lining. Emperor Gaozu in humble times wore this cap of bamboo skin—the so-called Liu clan cap. Later removed bamboo, used lacquered cord. Sima Biao said: "Long cap, Chu system. People sometimes call it magpie-tail cap—this is wrong." Later generations took it as sacrificial dress, out of respect. By Tianjian 3, Director of Sacrifice Affairs Shen Hong proposed: "Examining the bamboo-leaf cap—Gaozu wore it as pavilion chief; how can it be sacrificial dress for generations? The Rites: 'Scholars wear cap to sacrifice for the lord. Request that Director of Ceremonial Affairs assistants and erudites' fasting dress should change to use cap." Ming Shanbin agreed with Hong's proposal. " Sima Rong said: "If one must follow the Three Dynasties, I fear the changes would not be one. Long cap should remain as before. Examining present ancestral temple assistants and erudites' dress, nothing to reject." The emperor ultimately did not change.
136
Jianhua cap, using iron as pillar roll, threading nine large copper beads. Sacrificing Heaven and Earth, Five Suburbs, and Bright Hall—dancers wore it.
137
殿
Fan Kuai cap, nine cun wide, seven cun high, front and rear each projecting four cun, form like flat crown. All palace gate marshals and guard soldiers wore it.
138
殿
Enemy-repelling cap, four cun high, total length four cun, rear three cun high, form like advance-the-worthy cap. All palace gate guard soldiers wore it.
139
殿
Quefei cap, five cun high, form like long cap. Palace gate clerks and Attendants-in-Ordinary wore it.
140
The cap—noble and base, high and low, all wore it. Civil ones had long ears, called jie cap; Military ones had short ears, called flat-top cap. Each matched its crown in making. Director, Vice Director, and Masters of Writing caps, gathered square three cun, called remonstrance. Uncapped youths' caps, no roof, with false topknot—showing not yet adult.
141
The cap—Fu Zi said: at first there was no peak; Xun Wenruo's cap touched a tree forming a peak; people admired it and never changed. Now universally used as congratulatory and mourning dress. White gauze made, single or lined. Initial marriage capping send-off also wore it.
142
Headcloth: Imperial Academy students wore it, white gauze made. In Jin Taiyuan, Imperial Academy students seeing the Director of Ceremonial Affairs erudite: single garment, horn headcloth, holding one scroll of classics in place of hand tablet. At the end of Song, the system was lost. Qi established the academy; Grand Commandant Wang Jian recreated it. Now the form is like it.
143
Hat—from Son of Heaven down to scholars, universally worn over crown. White gauze ones called high-peak hat. Crown Prince in upper secretariat then black gauze; in Yongfu secretariat white gauze. Also silk black mixed gauze made, high roof lower skirt—no fixed standard.
144
Jacket-trousers: modern dress for following military campaigns. Now when gathering troops for alert, civil and military officials all wore it. When the emperor personally took the field, trousers were bound, not loosened. Palace officials purple jacket-trousers, outer officials cinnabar jacket-trousers, waist leather belt in place of purse leather.
145
Hand tablet—since middle antiquity, only the Eight Seats Masters of Writing held the hand tablet. The tablet had white brush attached at head, wrapped in purple pouch. Other dukes and ministers only held hand board. Purple satchel bearers used purple raw silk as lined pouch, attached outside dress on left shoulder. Zhou Qian said: formerly Duke of Zhou carried King Cheng on back, made this garment—still court dress today. Xiao Jiaozi said: called contract pouch. Examining Zhao Chongguo's biography: Zhang Ziru held pouch and writing brush, serving Emperor Wu. Zhang Yan said: pouch, contract pouch. Close attendants bore pouch and writing brush, ready for consultation and record.
146
殿 殿 殿西
Entering palace gate, those with caged crowns wore them; if chin strap, then lowered it. Along corridor one could lift garment. Inside bureaus one could wear shoes and black gauze hat. Entering fasting pavilion and crossing hall courtyard, one could not lift garment or grasp dress ornaments. Entering pavilion then held hand board, self-gathered garment. Low tables and mats could not enter fasting main pavilion. Jie cap could not ascend main hall and east-west halls. Ceremonial umbrellas and fans and covered chariots could not enter secretariat gate. Secretariat officials inquiring of Crown Prince all also wore vermilion dress and socks; Visiting princes: single garment and cap; Common surname: single garment and white cap. Visiting Three Dukes, must wear white cap. Reaching Yellow Pavilion, removed shoes; passing pavilion returned, put on shoes.
147
Anciently lord and minister wore jade pendants; noble and base had order; the sash was what strung pendants to receive each other. Also above and below had knee cover like apron; noble and base also each differed. After the Five Hegemons, war and weapons unceasing, pendants not weapons, knee covers not battle ritual—thereupon removed pendants and knee covers, keeping only the tie and ribbon. Knee cover and pendant abolished, Qin then used colored cords linked to ribbon, mutually receiving in turn, also called sash. Han inherited and used it. By Emperor Ming restored making pendants; Han end again lost entirely. Wei Attendant-in-Ordinary Wang Can knew its form, then recreated it. Present pendants, Can made them.
148
鹿 輿
Empress visiting temple wore gui-yi great robe—essentially marriage dress, called hui robe, black above black below. For personal silkworm then green above light blue below. All deep-garment form, hidden collar sleeves, edged with strips. Head ornaments then false topknot and step-sway—popularly called pearl pine. Hairpin ear ornaments step-sway, using gold as mountain topic, threading white pearls, as cassia branches entwined. Eight finches nine splendors, bear, beast, red bear, heaven deer, ward-off-evil, south mountain great special six beasts. All finch beasts all used kingfisher as splendor. Sash and girdle ornaments same as imperial carriage.
149
Noble Consort, Noble Lady, and Noble Concubine—these are the Three Ladies: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel, wearing Khotan jade, beast-head purse.
150
Pure Lady, Pure Conduct, Pure Appearance, Bright Splendor, Bright Conduct, Bright Appearance, Cultivated Splendor, Cultivated Conduct, and Cultivated Appearance—these are the Nine Concubines: gold seal with turtle knob, blue sash, eighty tassel, beast-head purse, wearing colored jade.
151
Lady of Handsome Grace, Splendid Appearance, Full Splendor, Bearing Emblem, and Arrayed Glory Five Offices—subordinate to Nine Concubines: silver seal with gui knob, mugwort sash, beast-head purse.
152
Beauty, Talented Lady, and Good Lady Three Offices—unranked: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, beast-head purse.
153
Crown Princess Consort: gold seal with turtle knob, light vermilion sash, one hundred sixty tassel, wearing fine jade, beast-head purse.
154
Good Companion: silver seal with gui knob, wearing colored jade, blue sash, eighty tassel, beast-claw purse.
155
Protecting Forest: silver seal with gui knob, wearing water-dark jade, blue sash, eighty tassel, beast-claw purse.
156
Princes' Grand Consort, Consort, Grand Princesses, Princesses, and Enfeoffed Ladies: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel, wearing mountain dark jade, beast-head purse.
157
Grand Lady of Duke and Marquis who founded a state: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, eighty tassel, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse.
158
Princesses and Three Ladies: great topknot, seven stud covered topknot. Nine Concubines and ducal ladies: five studs; Palace ladies: three studs. Grand Princesses could have step-sway. Princesses, Enfeoffed Ladies, and above all wore sash. Using colored cords as wrapped belt, each according to its sash color. Gold ward-off-evil head as belt clasp.
159
Ducal, Special Advance, Ranked Marquis, Minister, Commandant, and palace attendant of two thousand shi ladies: dark silk kerchief, gold dragon head holding white pearl, fish-whisker hairpin one chi long, as hairpin ear ornaments. Entering temple assisting sacrifice: black silk above and below; assisting silkworm: light blue silk above and below—all deep-garment form; from palace attendant of two thousand shi ladies up to empress, all used silkworm robe as court dress.
160
Since Jin moved east, Central Plains ritual and ceremony mostly lacked. Later Wei Tianxing 6, edict ordered relevant offices first to make crowns and robes, each according to rank, showing gradation—but could not all obtain the old system. By Grand Harmony middle, then examined old facts, corrected former errors, newly made caps and robes—still could not be complete. By Xiping 2, Grand Tutor Prince Qinghe Yi, Attendant of the Yellow Gate Wei Tingxiang, and others memorialized fixing five-season court dress, following Han precedent, Five Suburbs caps and headcloths each according to directional color. Later Qi followed this. Heqing middle, changed old objects, recorded fixed regulations.
161
輿 鹿 殿 西
Imperial carriage: flat crown, black jie cap, hanging white pearl twelve tassels, ornamented with five-color jade, cords as chin strap color like sash, yellow tassels, jade hairpin. White jade seal, yellow-red sash, five colors, yellow red light blue green dark blue, pure yellow substance, two zhang nine chi long, five hundred tassel, one chi two cun wide. Small sash three chi two cun long, same colors as sash, tassel half. Dragon robe: black robe, cinnabar skirt, skirt three panels front four back, woven complete, twelve emblems, cinnabar-edged inner single garment, woven wrapped belt, vermilion strap, wearing white jade, belt Lulu sword, cinnabar trousers and socks, red shoes. Before receiving capping ceremony, open-topped jie cap. Also tongtian gold Boshan cap, then cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed inner robe. Five-season dress then five-color jie cap, advance-the-worthy five-ribbed cap, five-color gauze robe. Also far-wandering five-ribbed cap, both not passed to subordinates. Four-season temple sacrifice, Round Mound, Square Pond, Bright Hall, Five Suburbs, feng and shan, great rain prayer, leaving palace on business, New Year receiving court and throne audience bowing to dukes and ministers—all wore dragon robe and crown dress. Returning to palace and fasting, then wore tongtian cap. Sacred field then crown, twelve tassel gems, wearing dark jade, yellow sash, blue belt, blue socks, and blue shoes. Paying respects at tombs then black jie cap, white gauze single garment. Libation sacrifice then wore tongtian gold Boshan cap, dark gauze robe. Spring equinox morning sun then blue gauze court dress, blue shoes; autumn equinox evening moon then white gauze court dress, light red shoes—both five-ribbed advance-the-worthy cap. New moon then wore tongtian gold Boshan cap and cinnabar gauze robe. Autumn ninth month military review and expedition announcing temple: military cap, gold cicada attached, left sable. Ma and lei rites: military cap and vermilion robe. Gathering troops ascending hall: tongtian gold Boshan cap and cinnabar gauze robe. Entering warm and cool chambers: military cap, right sable cicada attached, cinnabar gauze dress. Campaign return drinking ceremony: tongtian cap. Temple dispatching great general then dragon robe and crown; returning palace then tongtian gold Boshan cap. Rewarding ancestors punishing altars then military cap, left sable cicada attached. New Year's Day and winter solstice major and minor assemblies all tongtian gold Boshan cap. Four-season hunt and leaving palace: tongtian cap, all red shoes. Bright Hall then five seasons all tongtian cap, each its color dress. East-west hall expressing mourning: white cap.
162
使
Son of Heaven six seals: text reads "Emperor Traveling Seal"—for sealing regular edicts and orders. "Emperor's Seal"—for bestowing letters to kings. "Emperor Trust Seal"—for issuing bronze beast tallies dispatching troops from prefectures and bamboo envoy tallies summoning prefectural governors. All white jade made, square one cun two fen, dragon-beast knob. "Son of Heaven Traveling Seal"—for sealing enfeoffment of foreign states. "Son of Heaven's Seal"—for bestowing letters to foreign states. "Son of Heaven Trust Seal"—for dispatching troops to foreign states, summoning foreign states, and matters concerning spirits. All gold made, square one cun two fen, dragon-beast knob. Also Heirloom Seal, white jade made, square four cun, dragon-beast knob, above five coiled dragons, hidden raised bird seal script. Text reads "Receiving Heaven's Mandate, Emperor Long Life"—in all eight characters. Outside the six seals, only feng and shan to seal stone casket. Also Overseeing All Affairs seal one knob, wood made, one chi two cun long, two cun five fen wide. Back had nose knob, knob nine cun long, one cun thick, seven fen wide. Belly below hidden raised seal script "Overseeing All Affairs"—in all four characters. This seal always inside, only used to seal register stitching. When used, Left Household Central Commandant and Revenue Master of Writing memorialized to take; after sealing returned inside.
163
輿
Crown Prince flat crown, black jie cap, hanging white pearl nine tassels, ornamented with three-color jade, cords as chin strap color like sash, gold seal, vermilion sash, four colors red yellow light blue dark blue. Sash vermilion substance, two zhang one chi long, three hundred twenty tassel, nine cun wide. Small sash three chi two cun long, same color as sash, tassel half. Dragon robe same as imperial carriage but nine emblems, cinnabar strap, wearing fine jade, jade-fitted sword fire-pearl head, cinnabar trousers and socks, red shoes. Not visiting temple then not worn. Before receiving capping ceremony then open-topped black jie cap, double youth topknot, double jade guides. Palace attendant held far-wandering cap and followed. Far-wandering three-ribbed cap, black jie cap, kingfisher tassel chin strap, cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed inner robe, black shoes. Great court dress also advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, black jie cap, black court dress, cinnabar-trimmed inner single garment, dark shoes. Expressing mourning for palace officials: white cap, single garment, black leather shoes. Before receiving capping ceremony then plain dress.
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Crown Prince seal, gold made, square one cun, turtle knob, text reads "Crown Prince Seal." Palace great affairs used seal; minor affairs used gate Secretariat Record Bureau seal.
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Dukes and ministers flat crown, black jie cap, blue pearl tassels: upper duke nine, three dukes eight, ministers six, cords as chin strap color like sash. Robes all black above vermilion below. Three dukes mountain dragon eight emblems, one rank below Crown Prince; Nine Ministers waterweed fire six emblems—only suburban sacrifice to Heaven, Earth, and ancestral temple.
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Far-wandering three-ribbed—what princes wore. Those not yet capped then open-topped black jie cap. Duke, marquis, viscount, and baron who founded states and five-rank unenfeoffed nobles not yet capped—all likewise.
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Advance-the-worthy cap: civil officials second rank and above all three-ribbed; fourth rank and above all two-ribbed; fifth rank and below and outside ranks ninth rank and above all one-ribbed. Retired officials universally wore appearance-deferring cap. Military officers and attendants universally wore military cap. Attendants added sable ornament. Censors and Court of Justice wore law cap. All Masters of Ceremonies, Crown Prince ushers and attendants wore lofty mountain cap. Palace gate Attendants-in-Ordinary, hall clerks, pavilion chiefs, Crown Prince Director of Ceremonial Affairs, palace gate supervisors, Crown Prince inside bureau inspectors, and various gate clerks—all wore quefei cap. Forest Guard and Martial Guard wore he cap. Director and below, Masters of Writing and above wore remonstrance cap. Also red headcloth—what base persons wore. Saving solar eclipse, civil and military officials all removed caps, wore red jie cap, facing court dress. Base persons flat cap, red headcloth, displaying martial power to assist yang. Stopping rain also wore it. Praying for rain then wore light red headcloth; east plowing then green headcloth; kitchen staff then green headcloth.
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Seals and sashes: second rank and above all gold seal purple sash; Third rank silver seal blue sash; Third rank and above, all Five Bureaus officials and Central Attendant Bureau all seals not insignia. Fourth rank receiving seal: silver seal blue sash; Fifth and sixth rank receiving seal: bronze seal black sash; fourth rank and below, all founding viscounts and barons and five-rank unenfeoffed nominal marquis all silver insignia not seal. Seventh, eighth, and ninth rank receiving seal: bronze seal yellow sash. Gold silver insignia and bronze seal all square one cun, all turtle knobs. East south west north four frontier kingdom seals: upper frontier middle gold, middle frontier lower gold, lower frontier silver, all square one cun, turtle knobs. Assistant officials only ducal office chief clerk and Masters of Writing two assistants given seal sash. Sixth rank and below, ninth rank and above—only current bureau chiefs given seal. Others not chiefs, though high rank, all not given.
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Princes light vermilion sash, four colors red yellow light blue dark blue, pure vermilion substance, light vermilion pattern weave, two zhang one chi long, two hundred forty tassel, nine cun wide. Founding commandery and district duke, unenfeoffed commandery and district duke: dark vermilion sash, four colors dark red light blue dark blue, vermilion substance, dark pattern weave, one zhang eight chi long, one hundred eighty tassel, eight cun wide. Founding district marquis and viscount, unenfeoffed district marquis and viscount: blue vermilion sash, four colors blue red white light blue, vermilion substance, blue pattern weave, one zhang six chi long, one hundred forty tassel, seven cun wide. Founding district viscount and baron, unenfeoffed district viscount and baron, nominal marquis, founding township baron: plain vermilion sash, three colors blue red white, vermilion substance, white pattern weave, one zhang four chi long, one hundred twenty tassel, six cun wide. First and second rank, purple sash, three colors purple yellow red, pure purple substance, one zhang eight chi long, one hundred eighty tassel, eight cun wide. Third and fourth rank, blue sash, three colors blue white red, pure blue substance, one zhang six chi long, one hundred forty tassel, seven cun wide. Fifth and sixth rank, black sash, two colors blue dark blue, pure dark blue substance, one zhang four chi long, one hundred tassel, six cun wide. Seventh, eighth, and ninth rank, yellow sash, two colors yellow white, pure yellow substance, one zhang two chi long, sixty tassel, five cun wide. From second rank up, small sash could have jade ring. All sashes first combined single spun into one thread, four threads one fu, five fu one tassel, five tassel one pattern. Colors pure as substance. Many tassel fine thread; few tassel coarse thread. Offices with sash then had fringe, all eight chi long three cun wide, each following sash color. If wearing court dress then wore sash; if wearing public dress then wore fringe. Offices without sash should not wear fringe.
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Purse: second rank and above gold thread; third rank gold-silver thread; fourth rank silver thread; fifth and sixth rank colored thread; seventh, eighth, and ninth rank colored thread, beast-claw purse. Offices without seal sash all should not wear purse and claw.
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First rank, jade-fitted sword, wearing mountain dark jade. Second rank, gold-mounted sword, wearing water-dark jade. Third rank and founding viscount and baron, five-rank unenfeoffed nominal marquis though fourth fifth rank—all silver-mounted sword, wearing water-dark jade. From Attendant-in-Ordinary down, Direct Communication Gentleman up—attending seat then ceremonial sword. Those bearing real sword entering ancestral temple and ascending hall—if in guard formation all removed sword. First rank and unenfeoffed commandery duke, founding duke marquis viscount—all double girdle ornaments. Second and third rank and founding viscount baron, five-rank unenfeoffed nominal marquis—all double girdle ornaments. Sash likewise.
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All officials court dress and public dress all held hand board. Director of Masters of Writing, Vice Director, Director of Personnel hand board head again had white brush, purple leather wrapped, called tablet. Court dress attached purple satchel; Director left satchel, left Vice Director left satchel, right Vice Director and Director of Personnel right satchel. Seventh rank and above civil officials court dress all wore white brush in hair. Regular dukes marquises viscounts barons, ministers governors and military offices—all did not wear in hair. Court dress: crown, cap each one, cinnabar gauze single garment, white gauze inner single garment, black collar sleeves, black trim, leather belt, curved collar, square heart, apron, white brush shoes and socks, two sashes, sword girdle ornaments, hairpin guide, hook pendant—complete dress. Seventh rank and above wore. Public dress: crown, cap, gauze single garment, deep garment, leather belt, false belt, shoes and socks, hook pendant—called reduced dress. Eighth rank and below and outside ranks fourth rank and above wore.
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Outside ranks fifth rank and below and ninth rank and above all wore collar garment as public dress.
174
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Empress seal sash girdle ornaments same as imperial carriage, false topknot, step-sway, twelve studs, eight finches nine splendors. Assisting sacrifice court assembly with hui robe, suburban altar prayer with yu-di, minor banquet with que-di, personal silkworm with ju robe, ritual audience with emperor with zhan robe, leisure with tuan robe. Six robes all had apron and woven wrapped belt. Empress Dowager and Empress seals all white jade made, square one cun two fen, dragon-beast knob, text each according to title. Seals not used for travel; if order then Empress Dowager used palace name Guard Commandant seal, Empress then Director of Palace Domestic Service seal.
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Inner and outer titled ladies from fifth rank up, covered topknot—only stud count and flower hairpin amount marked rank. Second rank and above gold jade ornament; third rank and below gold ornament. Inner titled ladies Left Right Bright Conduct Three Ladies treated as first rank: false topknot nine studs, gold insignia purple sash, yu-di robe, double mountain dark jade. Nine Concubines treated as third rank, five stud covered topknot, silver insignia blue sash, ju robe, water-dark jade. Palace ladies treated as fourth rank, three studs, silver seal blue sash, zhan robe, no girdle ornament. Eighty-one palace women treated as fifth rank, one stud, bronze seal black sash, tuan robe. Also palace women female official dress system: second rank seven stud covered topknot, que-di robe; Third rank five studs, ju robe; Fourth rank three studs, zhan robe; Fifth rank one stud, tuan robe; Sixth rank tuan robe; Seventh rank blue gauze public dress. All great topknot. Eighth and ninth rank all blue gauze public dress, side topknot.
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Crown Princess Consort seal sash girdle ornaments same as Crown Prince, false topknot step-sway nine studs, yu-di robe. Following silkworm then blue gauze public dress.
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Crown Princess Consort seal, gold, square one cun, turtle knob, text reads "Crown Princess Consort's Seal." If sealing letter then used inner bureau seal.
178
Commandery Grand Princess, Princess, Kingdom Grand Consort, Consort: light vermilion sash, topknot insignia dress girdle ornaments same as inner titled lady first rank. Commandery Grand Lady seven stud covered topknot, dark vermilion sash, que-di, insignia girdle ornaments same as princess. Commandery Lady, District Lady wearing water-dark jade, rest same as Commandery Grand Lady. Crown Prince Good Companion treated as Nine Concubines dress. District Lady blue vermilion sash, rest same as Good Companion. Female Attendant-in-Ordinary five studs, false gold seal purple sash, ju robe, water-dark jade. District Lady silver insignia blue vermilion sash, rest same as Female Attendant-in-Ordinary. Crown Prince Lady of the Nursery same as palace lady. Crown Prince Household Attendant same as palace woman. Township Lady, Township Enfeoffed Lady plain vermilion sash, water-dark jade, rest same as palace woman. Outer titled ladies insignia seal sash girdle ornaments all according to husband. If husband temporarily insignia seal sash girdle ornaments, wife then not temporary. First and second rank, seven stud covered topknot, que-di robe. Third rank five studs, ju robe. Fourth rank three studs, zhan robe. Fifth rank one stud, tuan robe. Inner and outer titled ladies palace women female officials following silkworm then each according to rank, returning wearing covered topknot, all blue gauze public dress. Like outer titled ladies, sash belt purse all according to husband public dress precedent. All officials' mothers edict-added Grand Lady court dress and public dress each same as their titled lady dress.
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西 鹿
Northern Zhou established Director of Robes office, managing the emperor's twelve robes. Sacrificing Supreme God of Heaven then dark robe and dark crown; Sacrificing Eastern God and morning sun then green robe and green crown; Sacrificing Southern God then vermilion robe and vermilion crown; Sacrificing Imperial Earth and Central God then yellow robe and yellow crown; Sacrificing Western God and evening moon then white robe and white crown; Sacrificing Northern God, Spirit Land and altars of soil and grain then black robe and black crown; Feasting former emperors, capping ceremony, receiving empress, audience of feudal lords then elephant robe and elephant crown. Twelve emblems: sun moon stars mountain dragon embroidered insect six emblems on robe, fire ancestral vessel waterweed grain fu fe six emblems on skirt—in all twelve grades. Feasting former emperors, great divination with tortoise, feasting three elders five worthies, feasting feudal lords, plowing sacred field then dragon robe and crown—from dragon down in all nine emblems twelve grades. Ancestral vessel down five emblems on robe, waterweed fire down four emblems on skirt, robe heavier ancestral vessel. Sacrificing stars, four mountain spirits, first of month, great archery, feasting ministers, inspecting sacrificial animals, nurturing state elders then mountain crown, eight emblems twelve grades. Robe and skirt each four emblems, robe heavier fire and ancestral vessel. Group sacrifices, court audience, visiting Imperial Academy, entering Gate of the Way and Law, banqueting feudal lords and ministers and banquet archery, nurturing common elders, visiting feudal lords' households then pheasant crown, seven emblems twelve grades. Robe three emblems, skirt four emblems, robe heavier three emblems. Dragon, mountain, pheasant three crowns all skirt heavier fu fe, all twelve grades. Universally ascending dragon as collar border. Crown universally twelve tassels. Patrolling troops taking the field then wore leather cap—meaning using red leather as cap and also as skirt robe. Hunting traveling suburban districts then wore skin cap—meaning using fawn skin as cap, white cloth robe and plain skirt. Emperor mourning dress: cut mourning. Parents' mourning upper and lower reaching; mourning dress: tin mourning to weep for Three Dukes, hemp mourning to weep for feudal lords—all fifteen sheng taking half. Tin ones washed cloth not washed threads sorrow inside; hemp ones all plain cap like cap count ring headband. One garment wound headband. All great pestilence, great famine, great disaster then plain dress and white cap. All pestilence, famine, annual disaster, flood, and drought.
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Feudal lords' robes nine: first square crown. Second dragon robe and crown, nine emblems, ancestral vessel up five emblems on robe, waterweed down four emblems on skirt. Third mountain crown, eight emblems, robe and skirt each four emblems, robe heavier ancestral vessel, nine grades. Fourth pheasant crown, seven emblems, robe three emblems skirt four emblems, robe heavier fire and ancestral vessel. Fifth fire crown, six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems, robe heavier ancestral vessel and waterweed, skirt heavier fe. Sixth feather crown, five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, robe heavier waterweed grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Mountain crown down all nine grades, all mountain as collar border, crown all nine tassels. Seventh leather cap. Eighth skin cap. Ninth dark cap.
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Feudal lords' robes from square crown down eight, no dragon robe and crown. Mountain crown eight emblems, robe and skirt each four emblems. Pheasant crown seven emblems, robe three emblems skirt four emblems, robe heavier ancestral vessel. Fire crown six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems, robe heavier waterweed, skirt heavier fe. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Pheasant crown down all eight grades, all embroidered insect as collar border. Crown all eight tassels.
182
Earls' robes from square crown down seven, again no mountain crown. Pheasant crown seven emblems, robe three emblems skirt four emblems. Fire crown six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems, skirt heavier fe. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, skirt heavier fu fe. Fire crown down all seven grades, all fire as collar border. Crown all seven tassels.
183
Viscounts' robes from square crown down six, again no pheasant crown. Fire crown six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, skirt heavier fe. Feather crown down all six grades, all ancestral vessel as collar border. Crown all six tassels.
184
Barons' robes from square crown down five, again no fire crown. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems. Waterweed as collar border. Crown five tassels.
185
Three Dukes' robes nine: first sacrifice crown. Second fire crown, six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems, robe heavier ancestral vessel and waterweed, skirt heavier fe. Third feather crown, five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, robe heavier waterweed grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Fourth waterweed crown, four emblems, robe and skirt both two emblems, robe heavier waterweed grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Fifth embroidery crown, three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe. All nine grades, all ancestral vessel as collar border. Sixth cap. Seventh leather cap. Eighth skin cap. Ninth dark cap.
186
Three Solitaries' robes from sacrifice crown down eight, no fire crown. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Waterweed crown four emblems, robe and skirt each two emblems, robe heavier waterweed grain, skirt heavier fu fe, all eight grades, all waterweed as collar border. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe, eight grades.
187
Dukes and ministers' robes from sacrifice crown down seven, again no feather crown. Waterweed crown four emblems, robe and skirt each two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe, seven grades, all grain as collar border, each seven. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe, seven grades.
188
Upper Grand Masters' robes from sacrifice crown down six, again no waterweed crown. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu, six grades.
189
Middle Grand Masters' robes from sacrifice crown down five, again no skin cap. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, five grades.
190
Lower Grand Masters' robes from sacrifice crown down four, again no cap. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, four grades.
191
Scholars' robes three: first sacrifice cap, second cap, third dark cap. Dark cap all dark robes. Skirt: upper scholar dark, middle scholar yellow, lower scholar mixed skirt—meaning dark front yellow back. Common scholars' robes one: dark cap. Common scholars, commoners in office, clerks of bureaus. Their robes dark cloth garments.
192
Later ordered civil and military all wore regular dress, cap form like Wei headcloth, no hairpin with chin strap. Mourning dress all same as commoners. Mourning dress: feudal lords for their ministers and grand masters tin mourning; Same surname hemp mourning; For scholars si mourning. When on duty then cap headband; otherwise skin cap. Dukes Solitaries ministers grand masters mourning dress tin mourning cap headband, skin cap likewise. Scholars mourning dress si mourning plain skirt, on duty cap headband, otherwise plain cap.
193
𦐝
Empress robes twelve grades. Di robes six: following emperor sacrificing suburban altar prayer, feasting former emperors, audience of Empress Dowager then hui robe. Plain substance five colors. Sacrificing yin altar, audience of titled ladies then fei robe. Green substance five colors. Sacrificing minor group sacrifices, receiving offered cocoon then pheasant robe. Red color picking mulberry then bo robe. Yellow color following emperor seeing guests, listening to women's instruction then zhi robe. White color feasting titled ladies, returning home then yi robe. Dark color all twelve grades, hui pheasant as collar border, each two. Visiting women's academy and Gate of the Way and Law, banqueting titled ladies, sometimes seeing titled ladies then dark robe. Spring fasting and sacrifice return then green robe. Summer fasting and sacrifice return then vermilion robe. Mulberry-picking fasting and mulberry-picking return then yellow robe. Autumn fasting and sacrifice return then white robe. Winter fasting and sacrifice return then dark robe. From green robe down collar border used mutually generating colors.
194
𦐝
Feudal lords' ladies nine robes, di robes pheasants all nine grades, all fei pheasant as collar border, each nine. From fei robe down five: fei robe, pheasant robe, bo robe, zhi robe, yi robe, and vermilion yellow white dark robes making nine. From vermilion robe down collar border likewise used mutually generating colors.
195
Feudal lords' ladies from pheasant down eight. Di robes pheasants all eight grades, all pheasant pheasant as collar border. No fei robe.
196
Earls' ladies from bo down seven. Di robes pheants all seven grades, all bo pheasant as collar border, again no zhi robe.
197
Viscounts' ladies from zhi down six. Di robes all zhi pheasant as collar border. Again no bo robe.
198
𦐝 𦐝
Barons' ladies from yi down five. Di robes pheasants all five grades, all yi pheasant as collar border. Again no bo robe.
199
𦐝
Three Consorts, Three Dukes' ladies' robes nine: first bo robe, second zhi robe, third yi robe, fourth green robe, fifth vermilion robe, sixth yellow robe, seventh white robe, eighth dark robe, ninth pheasant robe. Splendor all nine trees. Pheasant robes also all nine grades, border pheasant as collar border, each nine.
200
Three Consorts, Three Solitaries' inner ladies from zhi robe down eight. Pheasant robes all eight grades, zhi pheasant as collar border, each eight.
201
𦐝 𦐝
Six Concubines, Six Ministers' inner ladies from yi robe down seven. Pheasant robes all seven grades, yi pheasant as collar border, each seven.
202
Upper Lady, upper grand master's lady from green robe down six.
203
Middle Lady, middle grand master's lady from vermilion robe down five.
204
Lower Lady, lower grand master's lady from yellow robe down four.
205
Palace Attendant Lady, scholar's lady from white robe down three.
206
Central Palace Six Directors, dark red robe. Its color red slightly dark.
207
Titled rank robes called public dress; rest regular dress called private dress. Empress splendor all twelve trees. Feudal lords' ladies also all according to mandate number as regulation. Three Consorts, Three Dukes' ladies and below also each according to mandate. One mandate and two mandate again all three as regulation.
208
Empress and feudal lords' ladies' robes all shoes. Three Consorts, Three Dukes' ladies and below di robes then shoes, rest all slippers. Shoes and slippers each according to skirt color.
209
Empress mourning dress: cut mourning, equal mourning, descending collateral period down mourning dress. For Consorts, Concubines, Three Dukes' ladies, Solitaries' inner ladies' mourning tin mourning. Tin ones fifteen sheng taking half. Not treating threads, treating cloth, sorrow inside. For feudal lords' ladies' mourning hemp mourning. Hemp also fifteen sheng taking half. Treating threads not treating cloth, sorrow outside. For Lady, Palace Attendant Lady and grand masters' ladies, scholars' ladies' mourning si mourning. Fourteen sheng, si between auspicious. All auspicious hairpin, no head ornament. Elephant hairpin, removed head ornament. Great yin waning then plain dress. Dissolving world's yin affairs: feudal lords' ladies and Three Consorts and Three Dukes' ladies and below mourning then five mourning—from hemp up all wore; mourning feudal lords' ladies for ministers' inner ladies and grand masters' ladies tin mourning. For own same surname ministers hemp mourning. For scholars' ladies si mourning. All auspicious hairpin, no head ornament. Three Consorts and below and Ladies, Three Dukes' ladies and below and ladies their mourning dress tin mourning. Palace Attendant Lady and scholars' ladies mourning dress si mourning, si mourning same hairpin. Nine clans and below all bone hairpin.
210
Knee cover: emperor three emblems dragon fire mountain; Feudal lords two emblems removing dragon; Ministers and grand masters one emblem using mountain. All woven colors to complete.
211
Emperor eight seals, has Spirit Seal, has Heirloom Seal, all treasured not used. Spirit Seal shows receiving from Heaven; Heirloom Seal shows receiving from Fortune. Emperor leaning on screen then placed Spirit Seal before mat right, Heirloom Seal before mat left. Also six seals. First "Emperor Traveling Seal"—for sealing orders to feudal lords and Three Dukes. Second "Emperor's Seal"—for letters with feudal lords and Three Dukes. Third "Emperor Trust Seal"—for dispatching troops from all Xia. Fourth "Son of Heaven Traveling Seal"—for sealing orders to frontier kingdom lords. Fifth "Son of Heaven's Seal"—for letters with frontier kingdom lords. Sixth "Son of Heaven Trust Seal"—for campaigning frontier kingdom troops. Six seals all white jade made, square one cun five fen, one cun high, dragon-beast knob.
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Empress seal text reads "Empress's Seal," white jade made, square one cun five fen, one cun high, qilin knob.
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Three Dukes and feudal lords all gold seal, square one cun two fen, eight fen high, turtle knob. Seventh mandate and above silver, fourth mandate and above bronze, all turtle knobs. Third mandate and above, bronze seal bronze nose. All square one cun, six fen high, text reads "Such-and-such Duke Office Seal."
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Emperor's cord sash using dark, green, vermilion, yellow, white, black, light vermilion, red, purple, dark purple, jade green, and green—twelve colors. Feudal lords nine colors, from yellow down. Earls eight colors, from white down. Viscounts seven colors, from black down. Barons six colors, from light vermilion down. Barons five colors, from red down. Three Dukes' sash like feudal lords. Three Solitaries' sash like earls. Six Ministers' sash like viscounts. Upper Grand Masters' sash like barons. Middle Grand Masters' sash like barons. Lower Grand Masters' sash from purple down. Scholars' sash from dark purple down. Seal insignia sash likewise.
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Baoding 4, all officials began holding tablet, regular dress above. Yuwen Hu first ordered robe adding lower skirt.
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