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禮儀六
Rites, Part Six
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梁制,乘輿郊天、祀地、禮明堂、祠宗廟、元會臨軒,則黑介幘,通天冠平冕,俗所謂平天冠者也。 其制,玄表,朱綠裡,廣七寸,長尺二寸,加于通天冠上。 前垂四寸,後垂三寸,前圓而後方。 垂白玉珠,十有二旒,其長齊肩。 以組為纓,各如其綬色,傍垂黈纊,珫珠以玉瑱。 其衣,皁上絳下,前三幅,後四幅。 衣畫而裳繡。 衣則日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彝,畫以為繢。 裳則藻、粉、米、黼黻,以為繡。 凡十二章。 素帶,廣四寸,朱裡,以朱繡裨飾其側。 中衣以絳緣領袖。 赤皮為韠,蓋古之韍也。 絳袴襪,赤舄。 佩白玉,垂朱黃大綬,黃赤縹紺四采,革帶,帶劍,緄帶以組為之,如綬色。 黃金辟邪首為帶鐍,而飾以白玉珠。 又有通天冠,高九寸,前加金博山、述,黑介幘,絳紗袍,皁緣中衣,黑舄,是為朝服。 元正賀畢,還儲更衣,出所服也。 其釋奠先聖,則皁紗袍,絳緣中衣,絳袴襪,黑舄。 臨軒亦服袞冕,未加元服,則空頂介幘。 拜陵則箋布單衣,介幘。 又有五梁進賢冠、遠遊、平上幘武冠。 單衣,黑介幘,宴會則服之。
Under Liang regulations, when the emperor performed suburban sacrifice to Heaven, sacrifice to Earth, rites at the Bright Hall, sacrifice at the ancestral temple, or the New Year's assembly at the imperial throne, he wore a black jie cap with the tongtian cap and flat crown—the so-called flat heaven cap. Its form was a black exterior with vermilion-green lining, seven cun wide and one chi two cun long, placed atop the tongtian cap. It hung four cun in front and three cun behind, round in front and square behind. White jade beads hung down in twelve tassels, their length reaching the shoulders. Silk cords served as the chin strap, each matching the color of its sash; yellow tassels hung at the sides, with jade plugs securing the bead strings. The robe was black above and cinnabar below, with three panels in front and four in back. The upper garment was painted; the lower skirt was embroidered. The robe bore the sun, moon, stars, mountain, dragon, embroidered insects, fire, and ancestral vessels, painted as ornament. The skirt bore waterweed, grain, rice, and the fu and fe patterns, worked as embroidery. In all, there were twelve emblems. A plain sash four cun wide, with vermilion lining and vermilion embroidered trim at the sides. The inner robe had cinnabar trim at the collar and sleeves. Red leather served as the knee cover—essentially the ancient fu. Cinnabar trousers and socks, with red shoes. He wore white jade at the belt, with a great sash of vermilion and yellow hanging down in four colors—yellow, red, light blue, and dark blue; a leather belt with sword, and a wrapped belt of cords matching the sash colors. A gold ward-off-evil head served as the belt buckle, ornamented with white jade beads. There was also the tongtian cap, nine cun high, with a gold Boshan ornament and shu in front, black jie cap, cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed inner robe, and black shoes—this was court dress. When New Year's congratulations were finished, he returned to the storehouse to change clothes and put on what he had brought out. For the libation sacrifice to the sage, he wore a black gauze robe, cinnabar-trimmed inner robe, cinnabar trousers and socks, and black shoes. At the imperial throne he also wore the dragon robe and crown; before receiving the capping ceremony, he wore the open-topped jie cap. When paying respects at the imperial tombs, he wore a single garment of fine cloth and a jie cap. There were also the five-ribbed advance-the-worthy cap, far-wandering cap, flat-top cap, and military cap. A single garment with black jie cap—worn at banquets.
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單衣、白帢,以代古之疑衰、皮弁為吊服,為群臣舉哀臨喪則服之。
A single garment and white cap replaced the ancient si mourning robe and leather cap as mourning dress; when ministers expressed mourning and attended funerals, they wore this.
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天監三年,何佟之議:「公卿以下祭服,裡有中衣,即今之中單也。 案後漢《輿服志》明帝永平二年,初詔有司采《周官》、《禮記》、《尚書》,乘輿服,從歐陽說; 公卿以下服,從大小夏侯說。 祭服,絳緣領袖為中衣,絳袴襪,示其赤心奉神。 今中衣絳緣,足有所明,無俟於袴。 既非聖法,謂不可施。」 遂依議除之。
In the third year of Tianjian, He Tongzhi proposed: "Below the rank of duke and minister, sacrificial dress includes an inner robe—the present-day inner single garment. Examining the Later Han "Regulations of Carriages and Robes," in the second year of Yongping under Emperor Ming, an initial edict ordered the relevant offices to adopt the "Offices of Zhou," "Record of Rites," and "Documents" for imperial carriage and robe regulations, following Ouyang's interpretation; For robes below the rank of duke and minister, they followed the interpretations of the Elder and Younger Xiahou. For sacrificial dress, cinnabar trim at collar and sleeves served as the inner robe, with cinnabar trousers and socks, showing the red heart in serving the spirits. Now the inner robe has cinnabar trim, which is sufficiently clear in itself; there is no need for the trousers. Since this is not the sage's law, it should not be applied." Thereupon they followed the proposal and removed it.
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四年,有司言:平天冠等一百五條,自齊以來,隨故而毀,未詳所送。 何佟之議:「《禮》『祭服敝則焚之』。」 於是並燒除之,其珠玉以付中署。
In the fourth year, the relevant offices reported that one hundred five items such as the flat heaven cap, since Qi, had been destroyed piecemeal with the changing times, and it was unclear where they had been sent. He Tongzhi proposed: "The Rites say, 'When sacrificial robes are worn out, burn them.' Thereupon they were all burned and removed; the pearls and jade were handed over to the Central Secretariat.
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七年,周舍議:「詔旨以王者袞服,宜畫鳳皇,以示差降。 按《禮》:『有虞氏皇而祭,深衣而養老。』 鄭玄所言皇,則是畫鳳皇羽也。 又按《禮》所稱雜服,皆以衣定名,猶如袞冕,則是袞衣而冕。 明有虞言皇者,是衣名,非冕,明矣。 畫鳳之旨,事實灼然。」 制:「可。」 又王僧崇云:「今祭服,三公衣身畫獸,其腰及袖,又有青獸,形與獸同,義應是蜼,即宗彝也。 兩袖各有禽鳥,形類鸞鳳,似是華蟲。 今畫宗彝,即是周禮。 但鄭玄云:『蜼,𧍪屬,昂鼻長尾。』 是獸之輕小者,謂宜不得同獸。 尋冕服無鳳,應改為雉。 又裳有圓花,於禮無礙,疑是畫師加葩L耳。 藻米黼黻,並乖古制,今請改正,並去圓花。」 帝曰:「古文日月星辰,此以一辰攝三物也。 山龍華蟲,又以一山攝三物也。 藻火粉米,又以一藻攝三物也。 是為九章。 今袞服畫龍,則宜應畫鳳明矣。 孔安國云:『華者,花也。』 則為花非疑。 若一向畫雉,差降之文,復將安寄? 鄭義是所未允。」 又帝曰:「《禮》:『王者祀昊天上帝,則大裘而冕,祀五帝亦如之。』 又云:『莞席之安,而蒲越稿秸之用。』 斯皆至敬無文,貴誠重質。 今郊用陶匏,與古不異,而大裘蒲秸,獨不復存,其於質敬,恐有未盡。 且一獻為質,其劍佩之飾及公卿所著冕服,可共詳定。」 五經博士陸瑋等並云:「祭天猶存掃地之質,而服章獨取黼黻為文,於義不可。 今南郊神座,皆用嵒席,此獨莞類,未盡質素之理。 宜以稿秸為下藉,蒲越為上席。 又《司服》云:『王祀昊天,服大裘』,明諸臣禮不得同。 自魏以來,皆用袞服,今請依古,更制大裘。」 制:「可。」 瑋等又尋大裘之制,唯鄭玄注《司服》云「大裘,羔裘也」,既無所出,未可為據。 案六冕之服,皆玄上纁下。 今宜以玄繒為之。 其制式如裘,其裳以纁,皆無文繡。 冕則無旒。 詔:「可」。
In the seventh year, Zhou She proposed: "The edict holds that the king's dragon robe should be painted with the phoenix, to show the gradation of rank. Examining the Rites: 'The Youyu clan wore the huang robe for sacrifice and deep robes for nurturing the aged. What Zheng Xuan called huang was the painting of phoenix feathers. Further examining the miscellaneous robes mentioned in the Rites, all are named by the garment, just as dragon robe and crown means dragon robe with crown. Clearly when Youyu speaks of huang, it is a garment name, not a crown—this is obvious. The intent to paint the phoenix is in fact clear." The regulation: "Approved." Also Wang Sengchong said: "In present sacrificial dress, the three dukes' robes have beasts painted on the body; at the waist and sleeves there are also green beasts, the same form as the beasts—the meaning should be the wei, that is, the ancestral vessel emblem. Each sleeve has a bird, resembling the luan and phoenix—seemingly the embroidered insect emblem. To paint the ancestral vessel emblem now is precisely the Rites of Zhou. But Zheng Xuan said: 'The wei is of the monkey kind, with upturned nose and long tail. It is a small light beast; it should not be depicted the same as the beasts. Searching the crown robes, there is no phoenix; it should be changed to pheasant. Also the skirt has round flowers, which in ritual is no obstacle—likely the painter added flourishes. Waterweed, grain, fu, and fe all depart from ancient regulations; we now request correction and removal of the round flowers." The emperor said: "In the ancient text, sun, moon, and stars—here one constellation emblem represents three things. Mountain, dragon, and embroidered insect—again one mountain emblem represents three things. Waterweed, fire, and grain—again one waterweed emblem represents three things. This makes nine emblems. Now the dragon robe is painted with dragons; it should accordingly be painted with phoenixes—this is clear. Kong Anguo said: 'Hua means flower. Then it is flower, not in doubt. If one uniformly paints pheasants, where shall the text of gradation be placed? Zheng's interpretation is what I cannot accept." Also the emperor said: "The Rites: 'When the king sacrifices to the Supreme God of Heaven, he wears the great fur robe and crown; sacrificing to the Five Emperors is the same. It also says: 'The comfort of rush matting, yet the use of rush fringe and straw padding. These all express utmost reverence without ornament, valuing sincerity and substance. Now at the suburban sacrifice earthenware and gourds are used, no different from antiquity, yet the great fur robe and rush straw padding alone are no longer preserved—in sincerity and reverence, I fear this is incomplete. Moreover, the first offering is substance; the sword and girdle ornaments and the crown robes worn by dukes and ministers can be jointly determined in detail." The Five Classics erudites Lu Wei and others all said: "Sacrificing to Heaven still preserves the substance of sweeping the ground, yet the robe insignia alone takes fu and fe as ornament—in meaning this is wrong. Now at the southern suburban spirit seats, all use rush mats—this alone is of the rush kind; the principle of plain substance is not fully realized. Straw padding should serve as the lower mat, and rush fringe as the upper mat. Also the "Director of Robes" says: 'When the king sacrifices to the Supreme Heaven, he wears the great fur robe'—showing that ministers' rites cannot be the same. Since Wei, all have used the dragon robe; we now request following antiquity and newly making the great fur robe." The regulation: "Approved." Wei and others further searched the regulations for the great fur robe; only Zheng Xuan's commentary on the "Director of Robes" says "great fur robe, lamb fur robe"—since there is no source, it cannot serve as evidence. Examining the six crown robes, all are black above and vermilion below. Now it should be made of black silk. Its form like a fur robe, its skirt vermilion, all without patterned embroidery. The crown then has no tassels. Edict: "Approved."
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又乘輿宴會,服單衣,黑介幘。 舊三日九日小會,初出乘金輅服之。
Also at imperial banquets, he wore a single garment and black jie cap. Formerly at the third- and ninth-day minor assemblies, when first going out he rode the gold chariot and wore this.
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八年,帝改去還皆乘輦,服白紗帽。
In the eighth year, the emperor changed so that going and returning he always rode the palanquin and wore a white gauze cap.
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九年,司馬筠等參議:「《禮記·玉藻》云:『諸侯玄冕以祭,裨冕以朝。』 《雜記》又云:『大夫冕而祭於公,弁而祭於己。』 今之尚書,上異公侯,下非卿士,止有朝衣,本無冕服。 但既預齋祭,不容同在於朝,宜依太常及博士諸齋官例,著皁衣,絳襈,中單,竹葉冠。 若不親奉,則不須入廟。」 帝從之。
In the ninth year, Sima Yun and others deliberated: "The "Record of Rites · Jade Ornaments" says: 'Feudal lords wear the dark crown to sacrifice and the supplementary crown for court. The "Miscellaneous Records" also say: 'Grand masters wear the crown to sacrifice for the lord and the cap to sacrifice for themselves. Today's Masters of Writing are above feudal lords and dukes in rank but below ministers and knights; they have only court dress and originally no crown robes. But since they participate in fasting sacrifice, they cannot remain together at court; they should follow the precedent of the Director of Ceremonial Affairs and erudite fasting officers, wearing black robes, cinnabar trim, inner single garment, and bamboo-leaf cap. If they do not personally attend, they need not enter the temple." The emperor followed this.
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十一年,尚書參議:「按《禮》,跣襪,事由燕坐,履不宜陳尊者之側。 今則極敬之所,莫不皆跣。 清廟崇嚴,既絕恆禮,凡有履行者,應皆跣襪。」 詔:「可。」
In the eleventh year, the Masters of Writing deliberated: "Examining the Rites, bare feet and socks are for leisurely sitting; shoes should not be displayed beside honored persons. Now in places of utmost reverence, all go barefoot. The Pure Temple is solemn and strict, already departing from ordinary rites; all who walk there should go barefoot in socks." Edict: "Approved."
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皇太子,金璽龜鈕,朱綬,三百二十首朝服,遠遊冠,金博山,佩瑜玉翠緌,垂組,朱衣,絳紗袍,皁緣白紗中衣,白曲領,帶鹿盧劍,火珠首,素革帶,玉鉤燮,獸頭鞶囊。 其大小會、祠廟、朔望、五日還朝,皆朝服,常還上宮則朱服。 若釋奠,則遠遊冠,玄朝服,絳緣中單,絳袴襪,玄舄。 講,則著介幘。 又有三梁進賢冠。 其侍祀則平冕九旒,袞衣九章,白紗絳緣中單,絳繒韠,赤舄,絳靺。 若加元服,則中舍執冕從。 皇太子舊有五時朝服,自天監之後則朱服。 在上省則烏帽,永福省則白帽云。
The crown prince: gold seal with turtle knob, vermilion sash, three hundred twenty tassel court dress, far-wandering cap, gold Boshan, wearing fine jade with emerald tassel, hanging cords, vermilion robe, cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed white gauze inner robe, white curved collar, wearing the Lulu sword, fire-pearl head, plain leather belt, jade hook clasp, and beast-head purse. At major and minor assemblies, temple sacrifice, first of the month and full moon, and the fifth-day return to court, all wore court dress; when regularly returning to the upper palace, vermilion dress. For the libation sacrifice, the far-wandering cap, dark court dress, cinnabar-trimmed inner single garment, cinnabar trousers and socks, and dark shoes. For lectures, he wore the jie cap. There was also the three-ribbed advance-the-worthy cap. When attending sacrifice, the flat crown with nine tassels, dragon robe with nine emblems, white gauze cinnabar-trimmed inner single garment, cinnabar silk knee cover, red shoes, and cinnabar leggings. When receiving the capping ceremony, the palace attendant held the crown and followed. The crown prince formerly had five-season court dress; after Tianjian he wore vermilion dress. In the upper secretariat he wore a black cap; in the Yongfu secretariat a white cap.
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諸王,金璽龜鈕,纁朱綬,一百六十首朝服,遠遊冠,介幘,朱衣,絳紗袍,皁緣中衣,素帶,黑舄。 佩山玄玉,垂組,大帶,獸頭鞶,腰劍。 若加餘官,則服其加官之服。
Princes: gold seal with turtle knob, light vermilion sash, one hundred sixty tassel court dress, far-wandering cap, jie cap, vermilion robe, cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed inner robe, plain sash, and black shoes. Wearing mountain dark jade, hanging cords, great sash, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist. If holding additional offices, he wore the robe of the added office.
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開國公,金章龜鈕,玄朱綬,一百四十首朝服,紗朱衣,進賢三梁冠,佩水蒼玉,獸頭鞶,腰劍。
A duke who founded a state: gold seal with turtle knob, dark vermilion sash, one hundred forty tassel court dress, gauze vermilion robe, advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
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開國公、伯,金章龜鈕,青朱綬,一百二十首朝服,紗朱衣,進賢三梁冠,佩水蒼玉,善頭鞶,腰劍。
A duke and marquis who founded a state: gold seal with turtle knob, blue vermilion sash, one hundred twenty tassel court dress, gauze vermilion robe, advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
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開國子、男,金章龜鈕,青綬,一百首朝服,紗朱衣,進賢三梁冠,佩水蒼玉,獸頭鞶,腰劍。
A viscount and baron who founded a state: gold seal with turtle knob, blue sash, one hundred tassel court dress, gauze vermilion robe, advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
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縣、鄉、亭、關內、關中及名號侯,金印龜鈕,紫綬,朝服,進賢二梁冠,獸頭鞶,腰劍。 關內、關中及名號侯則珪鈕。
District, township, pavilion, within-the-pass, within-the-center, and nominal marquis: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist. Within-the-pass, within-the-center, and nominal marquis had gui knobs.
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關外侯,銀印珪鈕,青綬,朝服,進賢二梁冠,獸頭鞶,腰劍。
A marquis outside the pass: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
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諸王嗣子,金印珪鈕,紫綬,八十首朝服,進賢二梁冠,佩山玄玉,獸頭鞶,腰劍。
The heir of a prince: gold seal with gui knob, purple sash, eighty tassel court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing mountain dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
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開國公、侯嗣子,銀印珪鈕,青綬,八十首朝服,進賢二梁冠,佩水蒼玉,獸頭鞶,腰劍。
The heir of a duke and marquis who founded a state: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, eighty tassel court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist.
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太宰、太傅、太保、司徒、司空,金章龜鈕,紫綬八十首朝服,進賢三梁冠,佩山玄玉,獸頭鞶,腰劍。 《陳令》加有相國丞相,服制同。
The Grand Preceptor, Grand Tutor, Grand Guardian, Minister over the Masses, and Minister of Works: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel court dress, advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, wearing mountain dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist. The "Chen Order" adds Chancellor and Prime Minister, with the same dress regulations.
21
大司馬、大將軍、太尉、諸位從公者,金章龜鈕,紫綬,八十首朝服,武冠,佩山玄玉,獸頭鞶,腰劍。 直將軍則不帶劍。
The Grand Marshal, Grand General, Grand Commandant, and those of equal rank with the lords: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel court dress, military cap, wearing mountain dark jade, beast-head purse, and sword at the waist. Direct generals did not carry swords.
22
凡公及位從公、言以將軍及以左右光祿、開府儀同者,各隨本位號。 其文則曰「某位號儀同之章」。 五等諸侯,助祭郊廟,皆平冕九旒,青玉為珠,有前無後。 各以其綬色為組纓,旁垂黈纊。 衣,玄上纁下,畫山龍已下九章,備五采,大佩,赤舄,絇履。 錄尚書無章綬品秩,悉以余官總司其任,服則餘官之服,猶執笏紫荷。 其在都坐,則東面最上。
For all lords and those of equal rank with lords, the text uses general and left-right Supervisors of the Household and Commissioner with Equal Protocol as titles, each following their original rank title. The inscription then reads "Seal of Commissioner with Equal Protocol of such-and-such rank title." Feudal lords of five ranks, when assisting at suburban and temple sacrifice, all wore the flat crown with nine tassels, blue jade as beads, with front but no back. Each used the color of his sash for the cord chin strap; yellow tassels hung at the sides. Robe: black above and vermilion below, painted with mountain and dragon down through nine emblems, with five colors complete, great girdle ornaments, red shoes, and knotted shoes. The Director of the Masters of Writing had no insignia or sash rank; he oversaw all duties through other offices and wore the robes of those offices, yet still held the tablet and purple satchel. When at the capital seat, he sat at the east, highest.
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尚書令、僕射、尚書,銅印墨綬,朝服,納言幘、進賢冠,佩水蒼玉,尚書則無印綬腰劍,紫荷,執笏。 陳尚書令、僕射,金章龜鈕,紫綬,八十首,獸頭鞶。 尚書無印綬及鞶。 余並同梁。
The Director, Vice Director, and Masters of Writing: bronze seal with black sash, court dress, remonstrance cap and advance-the-worthy cap, wearing water-dark jade; Masters of Writing had no seal sash or waist sword, purple satchel, and held the tablet. In Chen, the Director and Vice Director of the Masters of Writing: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel, beast-head purse. Masters of Writing had no seal sash or purse. The rest all followed Liang.
24
侍中散騎常侍、通直常侍、員外常侍,朝服,武冠貂蟬,侍中左插,常侍右插。 皆腰劍,佩水蒼玉。 其員外常侍不給佩舊至尊朝會登殿,侍中常侍夾禦,禦下輿,則扶左右。 侍中驂乘,則不帶劍。
Attendant-in-Ordinary, Regular Attendant of the Secretariat, Regular Attendant of Direct Communication, and Extra Attendant of the Secretariat: court dress, military cap with sable tail; Attendant-in-Ordinary inserted left, Regular Attendants inserted right. All wore swords at the waist and water-dark jade. Extra Attendants of the Secretariat were not given girdle ornaments; formerly at the emperor's court assembly ascending the hall, Attendants-in-Ordinary and Regular Attendants flanked the imperial carriage; when the emperor descended, they supported left and right. When the Attendant-in-Ordinary rode as outrider, he did not carry a sword.
25
中書監、令、秘書監,銅印墨綬,朝服,進賢兩梁冠,佩水蒼玉,腰劍,獸頭鞶。 陳制,銀章龜鈕,青綬,八十首,獸頭鞶,腰劍。 余同梁。
Supervisor and Director of the Secretariat, Supervisor of the Secretariat: bronze seal with black sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade, waist sword, and beast-head purse. Chen regulations: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, eighty tassel, beast-head purse, and waist sword. The rest followed Liang.
26
左、右光祿大夫,皆與加金章紫綬同。 其但加金紫者,謂之金紫光祿,但加銀青者,謂之光祿大夫。 《陳令》有特進,進賢二梁冠,朝服,佩水蒼玉,腰劍《梁令》不載。
Left and Right Supervisors of the Household all followed those with added gold seal and purple sash. Those with only added gold and purple were called Supervisor of the Household with Gold and Purple; those with only added silver and blue were called Supervisor of the Household. The "Chen Order" has Special Advance: advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, court dress, wearing water-dark jade, waist sword—the "Liang Order" does not record this.
27
光祿、太中、中散大夫,太常、光祿、弘訓太僕、太僕、廷尉、宗正、大鴻臚、大司農、少府、大匠諸卿,丹陽尹,太子保、傅,大長秋,太子詹事,銀章龜鈕,青綬,獸頭鞶,朝服,進賢冠二梁,佩水蒼玉。 卿大夫助祭,則冠平,冕五旒,黑玉為珠,有前無後。 各以其綬采為組纓,旁垂黈纊。 衣,玄上纁下,畫華蟲七章,皆佩五采大佩,赤舄,絇履。 陳宮卿改雲慈訓,餘皆同梁。 又有太舟卿,服章同。
Supervisor of the Household, Grand Master of Palace Counsel, Palace Counsel, Director of Ceremonial Affairs, Supervisor of the Household, Director of Instruction, Director of the Imperial Stud, Director of Justice, Director of the Imperial Clan, Director of Grand Ceremonies, Director of the Grand Granary, Director of the Palace Treasury, Director of the Imperial Manufactories, all ministers, Governor of Danyang, Crown Prince Tutor and Mentor, Director of the Palace Domestic Service, and Crown Prince Household Superintendent: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade. When ministers and grand masters assisted at sacrifice, they wore the flat crown with five tassels, black jade as beads, with front but no back. Each used the colors of his sash for the cord chin strap; yellow tassels hung at the sides. Robe: black above and vermilion below, painted with embroidered insects in seven emblems, all wearing five-color great girdle ornaments, red shoes, and knotted shoes. Chen palace ministers changed to Yun Cixun; the rest all followed Liang. There was also the Director of the Grand Canal, with the same dress insignia.
28
驃騎、車騎、衛將軍、中軍、冠軍、輔國將軍、四方中郎將,金章紫綬,中郎將則青綬。 朝服,武冠,佩水蒼玉。 《陳令》:鎮、衛、驃騎、車騎、中軍、中衛、中撫軍、中權、四征、四鎮、四安、四翊、四平將軍,金章獸鈕。 其冠軍、四方中郎將,金章豹鈕,並紫綬,八十首,獸頭鞶,朝服,武冠,佩水蒼玉。 自中軍已下諸將軍及冠軍、四方中郎將,並官不給佩。
General of Agile Cavalry, General of Chariots and Cavalry, General of the Guard, Central Army, General Who Conquers, General Who Assists the State, and General of the Four Directions and Central Commandant: gold seal with purple sash; the Central Commandant had a blue sash. Court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade. The "Chen Order": Garrison, Guard, Agile Cavalry, Chariots and Cavalry, Central Army, Central Guard, Central Pacification Army, Central Authority Army, Four Campaign, Four Garrison, Four Pacification, Four Support, and Four Pacification generals: gold seal with beast knob. The General Who Conquers and Central Commandants of the Four Directions: gold seal with leopard knob, all purple sash, eighty tassel, beast-head purse, court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade. From the Central Army down, all generals and the General Who Conquers and Central Commandants of the Four Directions—the office did not provide girdle ornaments.
29
領、護軍,中領、護軍,五營校尉,銀印青綬,朝服,武冠,佩水蒼玉,獸頭鞶。 其屯騎,夾禦日,假給佩,餘校不給。 《陳令》:領、護,金章龜鈕,紫綬,八十首。 中領、護,銀章龜鈕,青綬,八十首。 其五營校尉,銀印珪鈕,青綬,八十首。 官不給佩。 余並同梁。
Commander and Protector of the Army, Central Commander and Protector of the Army, and Five Camps Commandants: silver seal with blue sash, court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade, and beast-head purse. For the Cavalry Camp, on days flanking the imperial carriage, girdle ornaments were temporarily provided; the other camps were not. The "Chen Order": Commander and Protector, gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel. Central Commander and Protector: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, eighty tassel. The Five Camps Commandants: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, eighty tassel. The office did not provide girdle ornaments. The rest all followed Liang.
30
弘訓衛尉,衛尉,陳宮卿雲慈訓,服同諸卿,但武冠。 司隸校尉,陳無官服左右衛、驍騎、遊擊、前、左、右、後軍將軍,龍驤、寧朔、建威、振威、奮威、揚威、廣威、武威、建武、振武、奮武、揚武、廣武等將軍,積弩、積射、強弩將軍,監軍,銀章青綬,朝服,武冠,佩水蒼玉,獸頭珪。 驍、遊已下,並不給佩。 驍、遊夾侍日,假給。 《陳令》:左、右衛,銀章龜鈕,不給劍。 左右驍騎、遊擊、雲騎、遊騎、前、左、右、後軍將軍,左右中郎將,銀印珪鈕。 余服飾同梁,亦官不給佩。 其驍、遊、雲騎,夾禦日,假給。 其積弩、積射、強弩,銅印環鈕,墨綬,帶劍。 余服同梁。 又有忠武、軍師、武臣、爪牙、龍騎、雲麾、鎮兵、翊帥、宣惠、宣毅、智威、仁威、勇威、信威、嚴威、智武、仁武、勇武、信武、嚴武,金章豹鈕,紫綬,八十首。 官不給。 輕車、鎮朔、武旅、貞毅、明威、甯遠、安遠、征遠、振遠、宣遠等將軍,金章貔鈕,紫綬,並獸頭鞶,朝服,武冠,佩水蒼玉。
Director of Instruction of the Guard, Director of the Guard, Chen palace minister Yun Cixun—dress like other ministers, but with military cap. Director of the Imperial Censorate—Chen had no official dress. Left and Right Guard, Agile Cavalry, Mobile Strike, Forward, Left, Right, and Rear Army generals, Dragon Might, Pacify the North, Establish Might, Quell Might, Exert Might, Raise Might, Broad Might, Martial Might, Establish Martial, Quell Martial, Exert Martial, Raise Martial, and Broad Martial generals, Strong Crossbow, Accumulated Shot, and Powerful Crossbow generals, and Army Supervisor: silver seal with blue sash, court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade, and beast-head gui. From Agile Cavalry and Mobile Strike down, all were not given girdle ornaments. Agile Cavalry and Mobile Strike on attendant days were temporarily provided. The "Chen Order": Left and Right Guard, silver seal with turtle knob, no sword provided. Left and Right Agile Cavalry, Mobile Strike, Cloud Cavalry, Mobile Cavalry, Forward, Left, Right, and Rear Army generors, and Left and Right Central Commandants: silver seal with gui knob. The rest of dress and ornaments followed Liang; the office also did not provide girdle ornaments. Agile Cavalry, Mobile Strike, and Cloud Cavalry on attendant days were temporarily provided. Strong Crossbow, Accumulated Shot, and Powerful Crossbow: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, carrying sword. The rest of dress followed Liang. Also Loyal Martial, Military Advisor, Martial Minister, Talon and Fang, Dragon Cavalry, Cloud Banner, Garrison Troops, Assist Commander, Spread Grace, Spread Resolution, Wise Might, Benevolent Might, Brave Might, Trustworthy Might, Stern Might, Wise Martial, Benevolent Martial, Brave Martial, Trustworthy Martial, and Stern Martial: gold seal with leopard knob, purple sash, eighty tassel. The office did not provide. Light Chariot, Garrison the North, Martial Brigade, Steadfast Resolution, Bright Might, Pacify the Distance, Secure the Distance, Campaign the Distance, Quell the Distance, Proclaim the Distance, and other generals: gold seal with bear knob, purple sash, all beast-head purse, court dress, military cap, wearing water-dark jade.
31
國子祭酒,皁朝服,進賢二梁冠,佩水蒼玉。
Director of the Imperial Academy: black court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, wearing water-dark jade.
32
御史中丞、都水使者,銀印,墨綬,朝服,進賢二梁冠,獸頭鞶,腰劍,佩水蒼玉。 陳中丞,銀章龜鈕,青綬,八十首,二梁冠。 余同梁。 其都水,陳、梁改為太舟卿,服在諸卿中見。
Imperial Censor and Director of Waterways: silver seal, black sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, beast-head purse, waist sword, wearing water-dark jade. Chen Imperial Censor: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, eighty tassel, two-ribbed cap. The rest followed Liang. For the Director of Waterways, Chen and Liang changed to Director of the Grand Canal; dress is seen among the ministers.
33
謁者僕射,銅印環鈕,墨綬,八十首。 朝服,高山冠,獸頭鞶,佩水蒼玉,腰劍。
Director of the Masters of Ceremonies: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, eighty tassel. Court dress, lofty mountain cap, beast-head purse, wearing water-dark jade, and waist sword.
34
諸軍司,銀章龜鈕,青綬,朝服,武冠,獸頭鞶。
All army supervisors: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, court dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
35
給事中、黃門侍郎、散騎通直員外、散騎侍郎、奉朝請、太子中庶子、庶子、武衛將軍、武騎常侍,朝服,武冠,腰劍。 《陳令》:庶子已上簪筆。 其武衛不劍,正直夾禦,白布袴褶。
Gentlemen-at-the-Palace, Yellow Gate Attendant, Regular Attendant of Direct Communication Extra, Regular Attendant of the Secretariat, Court Gentlemen, Crown Prince Central Palace Attendant, Attendant, Martial Guard General, and Martial Cavalry Regular Attendant: court dress, military cap, and waist sword. The "Chen Order": from Attendant up, all wore writing brush in the hair. The Martial Guard had no sword; when standing upright flanking the imperial carriage, white cloth jacket-trousers.
36
中書侍郎,朝服,進賢一梁冠,腰劍。 冗從僕射、太子衛率,銅印,墨綬,獸頭鞶,朝服,武冠。 陳衛率,銀章龜鈕,青綬,不劍。 冗從,銅印環鈕,墨綬,腰劍。 余並同梁。
Attendant of the Secretariat: court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and waist sword. Supernumerary Attendant-in-Ordinary and Crown Prince Guard Commander: bronze seal, black sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap. Chen Guard Commander: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, no sword. Supernumerary Attendant: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, and waist sword. The rest all followed Liang.
37
武賁中郎將、羽林監,銅印環鈕,墨綬,朝服,武冠,獸頭鞶,腰劍。 其在陛牙及備鹵簿,著毼尾,絳紗縠單衣。
Martial Guard Central Commandant and Forest Guard Supervisor: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, military cap, beast-head purse, and waist sword. When at the imperial stair and preparing the guard of honor, they wore yak-tail ornaments and cinnabar gauze patterned single garment.
38
護匈奴中郎將,護羌、戎、夷、蠻、越、烏丸、西域校尉,銀印珪鈕,青綬,朝服,武冠,獸頭鞶。 《陳令》無此官。 其庶子,鎮蠻、甯蠻、平戎、西戎校尉,平越中郎將,服章同。
Protector of the Xiongnu Central Commandant and Protectors of the Qiang, Rong, Yi, Man, Yue, Wuhuan, and Western Regions Commandants: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, court dress, military cap, and beast-head purse. The "Chen Order" has no such office. For Attendants, Pacify the Barbarians, Pacify the Barbarians, Pacify the Rong, Western Rong Commandants, and Pacify the Yue Central Commandant—dress insignia the same.
39
安夷、撫夷護軍,州郡國都尉,奉車、駙馬、騎都尉,諸護軍,銀印珪鈕,青綬,獸頭鞶,朝服,武冠。 陳安遠、鎮蠻護軍,州、郡、國都尉,奉車、駙馬、騎都尉,諸護軍,服章同。 無餘文。
Pacify the Yi and Pacify the Yi Protectors of the Army, prefectural and commandery and state Commandants, Chariot Attendant, Imperial Son-in-Law, Cavalry Commandant, and all Protectors of the Army: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap. Chen Secure the Distance, Pacify the Barbarians Protectors of the Army, prefectural, commandery, and state Commandants, Chariot Attendant, Imperial Son-in-Law, Cavalry Commandant, and all Protectors of the Army—dress insignia the same. No further text.
40
州刺史,銅印,墨綬,獸頭鞶,腰劍,絳朝服,進賢二梁冠。 陳銅章龜鈕,青綬。 余同梁。
Prefectural governor: bronze seal, black sash, beast-head purse, waist sword, cinnabar court dress, and advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap. Chen: bronze seal with turtle knob, blue sash. The rest followed Liang.
41
郡國太守、相、內史,銀章龜鈕,青綬,獸頭鞶,單衣,介幘。 加中二千石,依卿尹冠服劍佩。
Commandery and state grand administrator, chancellor, and inner steward: silver seal with turtle knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, single garment, and jie cap. With added rank of palace attendant of two thousand shi, they followed the cap, dress, sword, and girdle ornaments of ministers and governors.
42
尚書左、右丞,秘書丞,銅印環鈕,黃綬,獸爪鞶,朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Left and Right Assistant Directors of the Masters of Writing and Secretariat Assistant: bronze seal with ring knob, yellow sash, beast-claw purse, court dress, and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
43
尚書,秘書著作郎,太子中舍人、洗馬、舍人,朝服,進賢一梁冠,腰劍。
Masters of Writing, Secretariat Compiler, Crown Prince Central Palace Attendant, Groom of the Heir, and Attendant: court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and waist sword.
44
諸王友、文學,朱服,進賢一梁冠。 《陳令》,諸王師服同。
Friends and Literary Scholars of princes: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. The "Chen Order": tutors of princes had the same dress.
45
治書侍御史、侍御史,朝服,腰劍,法冠。 治書侍御史,則有銅印環鈕,墨綬。 陳又有殿中、蘭台侍御史,朝服,法冠,腰劍,簪筆。
Imperial Censor and Attending Censor: court dress, waist sword, and law cap. The Imperial Censor had a bronze seal with ring knob and black sash. Chen also had Attending Censors of the Palace and Orchid Terrace: court dress, law cap, waist sword, and writing brush in the hair.
46
諸博士,給皁朝服,進賢兩梁冠,佩水蒼玉。
All erudites were given black court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap, and water-dark jade.
47
太學博士,正限八人,著佩,限外六人不給。
Erudites of the Imperial Academy: regular quota of eight persons wore girdle ornaments; six outside quota were not given.
48
廷尉律博士,無佩。 並簪筆。
The Erudite of Law at the Court of Justice had no girdle ornament. All wore writing brush in the hair.
49
國子助教,皁朝服,進賢一梁冠,簪筆。
Assistant Erudite of the Imperial Academy: black court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and writing brush in the hair.
50
公府長史,獸頭鞶。 諸卿尹丞,黃綬,獸爪鞶,簪筆。
Chief Clerk of a ducal office: beast-head purse. Assistant directors of ministers and governors: yellow sash, beast-claw purse, and writing brush in the hair.
51
諸縣署令、秩千石者,獸爪鞶,銅印環鈕,墨綬,朝服,進賢兩梁冠。 長史朱服,諸卿尹丞、建康令,玄服。
Magistrates of various county offices with rank of one thousand shi: beast-claw purse, bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, and advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap. Chief Clerks wore vermilion dress; assistant directors of ministers and governors and the Magistrate of Jiankang wore dark dress.
52
公府掾屬、主簿、祭酒,朱服,進賢一梁冠。 公府令史亦同。
Staff and chief clerks of ducal offices and libation officers: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Record clerks of ducal offices likewise.
53
領、護軍長史,朱服,獸頭鞶。 諸軍長史,單衣,介幘,獸頭鞶。
Chief Clerk of the Commander and Protector of the Army: vermilion dress and beast-head purse. Chief Clerks of various armies: single garment, jie cap, and beast-head purse.
54
諸卿部丞、獄丞,並皁朝服,一梁冠,黃綬,獸爪鞶,簪筆。
Department assistants and prison assistants of various ministers: all black court dress, one-ribbed cap, yellow sash, beast-claw purse, and writing brush in the hair.
55
太子保、傅、詹事丞,早朝服,一梁冠,簪筆,獸爪鞶,黃綬。
Assistants to the Crown Prince Tutor, Mentor, and Household Superintendent: morning court dress, one-ribbed cap, writing brush in the hair, beast-claw purse, and yellow sash.
56
郡國相、內史丞、長史,單衣,介幘。 長史,獸頭鞶,其丞,黃綬,獸爪鞶。
Chancellors, inner steward assistants, and chief clerks of commanderies and states: single garment and jie cap. Chief Clerks wore beast-head purse; assistants wore yellow sash and beast-claw purse.
57
諸縣署令、長、相,單衣,介幘,獸頭鞶,銅印環鈕,墨綬,朝服,進賢一梁冠。 諸署令,朱衣,武冠。 州都大中正、郡中正,單衣,介幘。
Magistrates, chiefs, and chancellors of various county offices: single garment, jie cap, beast-head purse, bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Directors of various offices: vermilion robe and military cap. Grand Rectifiers of prefectures and commanderies and commandery Rectifiers: single garment and jie cap.
58
太子門大夫,獸頭鞶,陵令、長,獸爪鞶,銅印環鈕,墨綬,朝服,進賢一梁冠。 令、長朱服,率更、家令、僕,朝服,兩梁冠,獸頭鞶,腰劍。
Gate Grand Master of the Crown Prince wore beast-head purse; Directors and Chiefs of Mausoleums wore beast-claw purse, bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Magistrates and chiefs wore vermilion dress; the Director of Ceremonial Affairs, Director of the Household, and Attendants wore court dress, two-ribbed cap, beast-head purse, and waist sword.
59
黃門諸署令、僕、長丞,朱服,進賢一梁冠,銅印環鈕,墨綬。 丞,黃綬。 黃門冗從僕射監、太子寺人監,銅印環鈕,墨綬,朝服,武冠,獸頭般。
Directors, Attendants, chiefs, and assistants of Yellow Gate offices: vermilion dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, bronze seal with ring knob, and black sash. Assistants wore yellow sash. Supernumerary Attendant-in-Ordinary Supervisor and Crown Prince Palace Attendant Supervisor: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
60
公府司馬,領、護軍司馬,諸軍司馬,護匈奴中郎將,護羌、戎、夷、蠻、越、烏丸、戊己校尉長史、司馬,銅印環鈕,墨綬,獸頭鞶,朝服,武冠。 諸軍司馬,單衣,平巾幘。 長史,介幘。 《陳令》:公府司馬,領、護軍司馬,諸軍司馬,鎮安蠻安遠護軍,蠻、戎、越校尉中郎將長史、司馬,其服章與梁官同。
Marshal of ducal office, Marshal of Commander and Protector of the Army, army marshals, and chief clerks and marshals of the Protector of the Xiongnu Central Commandant and Protectors of Qiang, Rong, Yi, Man, Yue, Wuhuan, and Wuji Commandants: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap. Army marshals: single garment and flat-top cap. Chief Clerk wore jie cap. The "Chen Order": Marshal of ducal office, Marshal of Commander and Protector of the Army, army marshals, Pacify the Barbarians and Secure the Distance Protectors of the Army, and chief clerks and marshals of Barbarian, Rong, and Yue Commandants and Central Commandants—dress insignia same as Liang offices.
61
公府從事中郎,朱服,進賢一梁冠。 諸將軍開府功曹、主簿,單衣,介幘,革帶。 廷尉,建康正、監平,銅印環鈕,墨綬,皁零辟,朝服,法冠,獸爪鞶。
Gentleman-attendant of ducal office: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Merit officer and chief clerk of generals who opened offices: single garment, jie cap, and leather belt. Director of Justice and Director and Supervisor of Jiankang: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, black zero-pi, court dress, law cap, and beast-claw purse.
62
左、右衛司馬,銅印環鈕,墨綬,單衣,帶,平巾幘,獸頭鞶。
Left and Right Guard marshals: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, single garment, belt, flat-top cap, and beast-head purse.
63
諸府參軍,單衣,平巾幘。
Staff of various offices: single garment and flat-top cap.
64
諸州別駕、治中、從事、主簿、西曹從事,玄朝服,進賢一梁冠,簪筆。 常公事,單衣,介幘,朱衣。
Separate Chariot, Administrator, Staff, Chief Clerk, and Western Bureau Staff of various prefectures: dark court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and writing brush in the hair. For regular business: single garment, jie cap, and vermilion robe.
65
直閣將軍,朱服,武冠,銅印珪鈕,青綬,獸頭鞶。
Direct Gate General: vermilion dress, military cap, bronze seal with gui knob, blue sash, and beast-head purse.
66
直閣將軍、諸殿主帥,朱服,武冠。 正直絳衫,從則衤雨襠衫。
Direct Gate General and hall commanders of various halls: vermilion dress and military cap. Upright attendants wore cinnabar shirt; followers wore rain-cape shirt.
67
諸開國郎中令、大農、公、傅中尉,銅印環鈕,青綬,朝服,進賢兩梁冠,中尉武冠,皆獸頭鞶。
Directors of the Interior, Grand Agriculture, Duke, and Tutor Central Commandant of various founding states: bronze seal with ring knob, blue sash, court dress, advance-the-worthy two-ribbed cap; Central Commandants wore military cap—all with beast-head purse.
68
諸開國三將軍,銅印環鈕,青綬,朝服,武冠。 限外者不給印。 陳制:墨綬,余並同梁。
Three Generals of various founding states: bronze seal with ring knob, blue sash, court dress, and military cap. Those outside quota were not given seals. Chen regulations: black sash; the rest all followed Liang.
69
開國掌書中尉、司馬,陵廟食官,廄牧長,典醫典府丞,銅印。
Central Commandant of Records of founding states, Marshal, Mausoleum Food Officer, Stable and Pasture Chief, and Assistant Directors of Medical and Treasury Bureaus: bronze seal.
70
常侍、侍郎、世子、庶子、謁者、中大夫、舍人,不給印。 典書、典祠、學官令,典膳丞、長,銅印。 限外者不給印。
Regular Attendants, Attendants, Heirs, Attendants, Grand Masters, Attendants, and Gentlemen were not given seals. Directors of Records, Sacrifice, and Academy and Assistant Directors of Food and Chiefs: bronze seal. Those outside quota were not given seals.
71
左右常侍、侍郎,典衛中尉司馬,朝服,武冠。 典書、典祠、學官令,朝服,進賢一梁冠。 余悉朱服,一梁冠。 常侍、侍郎、典書、典祠、學官令,簪筆,腰劍。
Left and Right Regular Attendants and Attendants and Central Commandant and Marshal of Guard Bureau: court dress and military cap. Directors of Records, Sacrifice, and Academy: court dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. The rest all wore vermilion dress and one-ribbed cap. Regular Attendants, Attendants, and Directors of Records, Sacrifice, and Academy: writing brush in the hair and waist sword.
72
太子衛率、率更、家令丞,銅印環鈕,黃綬,皁朝服,進賢一梁冠,獸爪鞶。
Assistants to Crown Prince Guard Commander, Director of Ceremonial Affairs, and Director of the Household: bronze seal with ring knob, yellow sash, black court dress, advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap, and beast-claw purse.
73
太子常從武賁督,銅印環鈕,墨綬,朝服,武冠,獸爪鞶。
Crown Prince Regular Attendant Martial Guard Commander: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, court dress, military cap, and beast-claw purse.
74
殿中將軍、員外將軍,朱服,武冠。
Palace General and Extra General: vermilion dress and military cap.
75
州郡國都尉司馬,銅印環鈕,墨綬,朱服,武冠,獸頭鞶。
Marshal of prefectural, commandery, and state Commandant: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, vermilion dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
76
諸謁者,朝服,高山冠。
All Masters of Ceremonies: court dress and lofty mountain cap.
77
中書通事舍人門下令史、主書典書令史、門下朝廷局書令史、太子門下通事守舍人、主書典守舍人、二宮齋內職左右職局齋幹已上,朱服,武冠。
Gentlemen-at-the-Palace of Secretariat Attendants, gate record clerks, chief record clerks, gate court bureau record clerks, Crown Prince gate Attendants, chief record keepers, and palace attendants of both palaces and left-right bureau attendants and above: vermilion dress and military cap.
78
殿中內外局監、太子內外監、殿中守舍人,銅印環鈕,朱服,武冠。
Supervisors inside and outside the palace, Crown Prince inside and outside supervisors, and palace attendants: bronze seal with ring knob, vermilion dress, and military cap.
79
內外監典事書吏,朱服,進賢一梁冠。 內監朝廷人領局典事、外監統軍隊諮詳發遣局典事,武冠。 外監及典事書吏,悉著朱衣,唯正直及齋監並受使,不在例。 其東宮內外監、殿典事書吏,依台格。 五校、三將將軍主事,內監主事,外監主事,三校主事,朱服,武冠。
Record clerks of inside and outside supervisors: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Inside supervisor court attendants leading bureau affairs and outside supervisor commanding army units deliberating and dispatching bureau affairs: military cap. Outside supervisors and record clerks all wore vermilion robes; only upright attendants and fasting supervisors on assignment were excepted. Eastern Palace inside and outside supervisors and hall record clerks followed the secretariat standard. Chief clerks of Five Camps and Three Generals, inside supervisor chief clerks, outside supervisor chief clerks, and Three Camps chief clerks: vermilion dress and military cap.
80
尚書都令史,都水參事,門下書令史,集書、中書、尚書、秘書著作掌書主書主圖主譜典客令史書令史,監、令、僕射省事,蘭台、殿中蘭台、謁、都水令史,公府令史書令史,太子導客、次客守舍人及諸省典事,朱衣,進賢一梁冠。
Chief record clerks of the Masters of Writing, Waterways staff, gate record clerks, record clerks of Collection, Secretariat, Masters of Writing, Secretariat Compiler, Director and Attendant record clerks, Orchid Terrace, Palace Orchid Terrace, Masters of Ceremonies, and Waterways record clerks, ducal office record clerks, Crown Prince ushers, secondary ushers, attendants, and record clerks of various bureaus: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
81
尚書都算、度支算、左右校吏,朱服,進賢一梁冠。
Calculators of the Masters of Writing, Revenue calculators, and left-right workshop clerks: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
82
諸縣署丞、太子諸署丞、王公侯諸署及公主家令丞、僕,銅印環鈕,黃綬,朱服,進賢一梁冠。 太官、太醫丞,武冠。
Assistants of various county offices, Crown Prince office assistants, and assistants of dukes, marquises, and princess household directors and attendants: bronze seal with ring knob, yellow sash, vermilion dress, and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Assistants of Grand Food and Grand Medical Bureaus: military cap.
83
諸縣尉,銅印環鈕,單衣,介幘,黃綬,獸爪鞶。 節騎郎,朱服,武冠。 其在陛列及備鹵簿者,毼尾,絳紗縠單衣。 禦節郎、黃鉞郎,朝服,赤介幘,簪筆。 典儀、唱警、唱奏事、持兵、主麾等諸職,公事及備鹵簿,朱服,武冠。
Commandants of various counties: bronze seal with ring knob, single garment, jie cap, yellow sash, and beast-claw purse. Protocol Cavalry Officer: vermilion dress and military cap. When in the imperial stair ranks and preparing the guard of honor: yak-tail ornament and cinnabar gauze patterned single garment. Protocol Officer and Yellow Battle-Axe Officer: court dress, red jie cap, and writing brush in the hair. Directors of ceremony, alarm, announcement, weapon-bearing, banner, and other offices—for official business and preparing the guard of honor: vermilion dress and military cap.
84
殿中中郎將、校尉、都尉,銀印珪鈕,青綬,朱服,武冠,獸頭鞶。
Palace Central Commandant, Commandant, and Commandant: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, vermilion dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
85
城門侯,銅印環鈕,墨綬,朱服,武冠,獸頭鞶。
Gate Marquis: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, vermilion dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
86
部曲督、司馬吏、部曲將,銅印環鈕,朱服,武冠。 司馬吏,假墨綬,獸爪鞶。
Unit Supervisor, Marshal Clerk, and Unit Commander: bronze seal with ring knob, vermilion dress, and military cap. Marshal Clerk temporarily wore black sash and beast-claw purse.
87
太中、中散、諫議大夫,議郎、中郎、郎中、舍人,朱服,進賢一梁冠。
Grand Master of Palace Counsel, Palace Counsel, Remonstrance and Policy Grand Master, Consultant, Central Commandant, Attendant, and Gentlemen: vermilion dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
88
諸門郎、僕射、佐吏,東宮門吏,其郎朱服,僕射皁零辟,朝服,進賢冠,吏卻非冠,佐吏著進賢冠。
Gate Attendants, Attendants-in-Ordinary, and assistants and Eastern Palace gate clerks—the Attendants wore vermilion dress; Attendants-in-Ordinary wore black zero-pi and court dress with advance-the-worthy cap; clerks wore quefei cap; assistants wore advance-the-worthy cap.
89
總章協律,銅印環鈕,艾綬,獸爪鞶,朱服,武冠。
Director of Music and Harmonizer: bronze seal with ring knob, mugwort sash, beast-claw purse, vermilion dress, and military cap.
90
黃門後閣舍人、主書、齋帥、監食、主食、主客、扶侍、鼓吹,朱服,武冠。 鼓吹進賢冠,齋帥墨綬,獸頭鞶。
Yellow Gate rear pavilion attendants, chief clerks, fasting commanders, food supervisors, chief food officers, chief guests, attendants, and musicians: vermilion dress and military cap. Musicians wore advance-the-worthy cap; fasting commanders wore black sash and beast-head purse.
91
殿中司馬,銅印環鈕,墨綬,朱服,武冠,獸頭鞶。
Palace Marshal: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, vermilion dress, military cap, and beast-head purse.
92
總章監、鼓吹監,銅印環鈕,艾綬,朱服,武冠。
Director of Music and Music Supervisor: bronze seal with ring knob, mugwort sash, vermilion dress, and military cap.
93
諸四品將兵都尉、牙門將、崇毅、材官、折難、輕騎、揚烈、威遠、甯遠、宣威、光威、驤威、威烈、威虜、平戎、綏遠、綏狄、綏邊、綏戎、獸威、威武、烈武、毅武、奮武、討寇、討虜、殄難、討難、討夷、厲武、橫野、陵江、鷹揚、執訊、蕩寇、蕩虜、蕩難、蕩逆、殄虜、掃虜、掃難、掃逆、掃寇、厲鋒、武奮、武牙、廣野,領兵滿五十人,給銀章,不滿五十,除板而已,不給章,朱服,武冠。 以此官為刺史、太守,皆青綬。 此條已下,皆陳制,與梁不同。
All fourth-rank generals commanding troops, Gate General, Chongyi, Material Officer, Break Difficulty, Light Cavalry, Raise Fury, Prestige the Distance, Pacify the Distance, Spread Might, Bright Might, Exalt Might, Prestige the Barbarian, Pacify the Barbarian, Secure the Distance, Secure the Di, Secure the Border, Secure the Rong, Beast Might, Martial Prestige, Fierce Martial, Exert Martial, Campaign the Bandit, Campaign the Barbarian, Destroy Difficulty, Campaign Difficulty, Campaign the Yi, Stern Martial, Traverse the Wild, Overlook the River, Eagle Raise, Capture Interrogation, Sweep the Bandit, Sweep the Barbarian, Sweep Difficulty, Sweep the Rebel, Destroy the Barbarian, Sweep the Barbarian, Sweep Difficulty, Sweep the Rebel, Sweep the Bandit, Sharp Edge, Martial Exertion, Martial Fang, and Broad Wild—with command of fifty troops or more, silver seal given; under fifty, appointment plaque only, no seal; vermilion dress and military cap. When this office served as prefectural governor or grand administrator, all had blue sash. From this entry down, all are Chen regulations, different from Liang.
94
典儀但帥、典儀正帥,朱衣,武冠。 其本資有殿但、正帥,得帶艾綬,獸頭鞶。 殿但帥、正帥,艾綬,獸頭鞶,朱服,武冠。 殿帥、羽儀帥、員外帥,朱衣,武冠。
Ceremony Director but Commander and Ceremony Director Regular Commander: vermilion robe and military cap. Those whose original rank included Palace but and Regular Commander could wear mugwort sash and beast-head purse. Palace but Commander and Regular Commander: mugwort sash, beast-head purse, vermilion dress, and military cap. Hall Commander, Feather Ceremony Commander, and Extra Commander: vermilion robe and military cap.
95
威雄、猛、烈、振、信、勝、略、風、力、光等十威將軍,武猛、略、勝、力、毅、健、烈、威、銳、勇等十武將軍,並銀章熊鈕,青綬,獸頭鞶,武冠,朝服。
Ten Prestige generals of Prestige, Fierce, Fury, Quell, Trust, Overcome, Strategy, Wind, Strength, and Bright, and ten Martial generars of Martial Fierce, Strategy, Overcome, Strength, Resolution, Vigorous, Fury, Prestige, Sharp, and Brave: all silver seal with bear knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, military cap, and court dress.
96
猛毅、烈、威、銳、震、進、智、武、勝、駿等十猛將軍,銀章羆鈕,青綬,獸頭鞶,武冠,朝服。
Ten Fierce generals of Fierce Resolution, Fury, Prestige, Sharp, Quell, Advance, Wisdom, Martial, Overcome, and Steed: silver seal with bear knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, military cap, and court dress.
97
壯武、勇、烈、猛、銳、威、毅、志、意、力等十壯將軍,驍雄、桀、猛、烈、武、勇、銳、名、勝、迅等十驍將軍,雄猛、威、明、烈、信、武、勇、毅、壯、健等十雄將軍,並銀章羔鈕,青綬,獸頭鞶,武冠,朝服。
Ten Robust generals, ten Valiant generals, and ten Heroic generals: all silver seal with lamb knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, military cap, and court dress.
98
忠勇、烈、猛、銳、壯、毅、捍、信、義、勝等十忠將軍,明智、略、遠、勇、烈、威、勝、進、銳、毅等十明將軍,光烈、明、英、遠、勝、銳、命、勇、武、野等十光將軍,飆勇、猛、烈、銳、奇、決、起、略、勝、出等十飆將軍,並銀章鹿鈕,青綬,獸頭鞶,武冠,朝服。
Ten Loyal generals, ten Bright generals, ten Bright generals, and ten Gale generals: all silver seal with deer knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, military cap, and court dress.
99
龍驤、武視、雲旗、風烈、電威、雷音、馳、銳、進銳、羽騎、突騎、折衝、冠武、和戎、安壘、起猛、英果、掃虜、掃狄、武銳、摧鋒、開遠、略遠、貞威、決勝、清野、堅銳、輕銳、拔山、雲勇、振旅等三十號將軍,銀印菟鈕,青綬,獸頭鞶,朝服,武冠。
Thirty titled generals from Dragon Might through Quell the Brigade: silver seal with rabbit knob, blue sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap.
100
超武、鐵騎、樓船、宣猛、樹功、克狄、平虜、棱威、戎昭、威戎、伏波、雄戟、長劍、衝冠、雕騎、佽飛、勇騎、破敵、克敵、威虜、前鋒、武毅、開邊、招遠、全威、破陣、蕩寇、殄虜、橫野、馳射等三十號將軍,銅印環鈕,墨綬,獸頭鞶,朝服,武冠。 並左十二件將軍,除並假給章印綬,板則止朱服、武冠而已。 其勳選除,亦給章印。
Thirty titled generals from Super Martial through Gallop and Shoot: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, beast-head purse, court dress, and military cap. All twelve-item left generals—all temporarily given seals and sashes with appointment; with plaque only, vermilion dress and military cap. Meritorious selection appointments also received seals.
101
建威、牙門、期門已下諸將軍,並銅印環鈕,墨綬,獸頭鞶,朱服,武冠。 板則無印綬,止冠服而已。 其在將官,以功次轉進,應署建威已下諸號,不限板除,悉給印綬。 若武官署位轉進,登上條九品馳射已上諸戎號,亦不限板除,悉給印綬。
Establish Might, Gate, Period Gate, and below generals: all bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, beast-head purse, vermilion dress, and military cap. With plaque only, no seal or sash—cap and dress only. When in general offices advancing by merit, if appointed Establish Might and below titles, not limited to plaque appointment—all were given seal and sash. If military officers advanced by office, ascending to ninth-rank Gallop and Shoot and above military titles, also not limited to plaque appointment—all were given seal and sash.
102
千人督、校督司馬,武賁督、牙門將、騎督督、守將兵都尉、太子常從督別部司馬、假司馬,假銅印環鈕,朱服,武冠,墨綬,獸頭鞶。
Thousand-man Supervisor, Camp Supervisor Marshal, Martial Guard Supervisor, Gate General, Cavalry Supervisor, Garrison General Commandant, Crown Prince Regular Attendant Supervisor Separate Unit Marshal, and Acting Marshal: temporarily bronze seal with ring knob, vermilion dress, military cap, black sash, and beast-head purse.
103
武猛中郎將、校尉、都尉,銅印環鈕,朱服,武冠。 其以此官為千人司馬、道賁督已上及司馬,皆假墨綬,獸頭鞶。 已上陳制,梁所無及不同者。
Martial Fierce Central Commandant, Commandant, and Commandant: bronze seal with ring knob, vermilion dress, and military cap. When this office served as thousand-man Marshal, Protocol Guard Supervisor and above, and Marshal—all temporarily black sash and beast-head purse. Above are Chen regulations; what Liang lacked or differed.
104
陛長、甲僕射、主事吏將騎、廷上五牛旗假吏武賁,在陛列及備鹵簿,服錦文衣,武冠,毼尾。 陛長者,假銅印環鈕,墨綬,獸頭鞶。
Stair Chief, Halberd Attendant-in-Ordinary, Chief Clerk General Cavalry, and Court Five-Ox Banner Acting Clerk Martial Guard—when in imperial stair ranks and preparing the guard of honor: brocade-pattern robe, military cap, and yak-tail ornament. Stair Chief temporarily wore bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, and beast-head purse.
105
假旄頭羽林,在陛列及備鹵簿,服絳單衣,上著韋畫腰襦,假旄頭。 輿輦、跡禽、前驅、由基強弩司馬,給絳科單衣,武冠。 其本位佩武猛都尉已上印者,假墨綬,別部司馬已下假墨綬,並獸頭鞶。
Acting Plume Head Forest Guard—when in imperial stair ranks and preparing the guard of honor: cinnabar single garment, upper leather-painted waist jacket, and acting plume head. Palanquin, Trace Bird, Forward Scout, and Youji Strong Crossbow marshals: given cinnabar-pattern single garment and military cap. Those whose original rank bore Martial Fierce Commandant and above seals temporarily black sash; Separate Unit Marshal and below temporarily black sash—all with beast-head purse.
106
殿中冗從武賁、殿中武賁、持鈒戟冗從武賁,假青綬,絳科單衣,武冠。 《陳令》:絳科單衣,其本位職佩武猛、都尉等印,假鞶綬,依前條。
Palace Supernumerary Martial Guard, Palace Martial Guard, and Halberd-bearing Supernumerary Martial Guard: temporarily blue sash, cinnabar-pattern single garment, and military cap. The Chen Order: cinnabar-pattern single garment; those whose original office bore Martial Fierce, Commandant, and other seals temporarily wore purse and sash per the previous entry.
107
持椎斧武騎武賁、五騎傳詔武賁、殿中羽林、太官尚食武賁、稱飯宰人、諸宮尚食武賁,假墨綬,給絳褠,武冠。 其佩武猛、都尉等位印,皆依上條假鞶綬之例。
Mace-bearing Martial Cavalry Martial Guard, Five-Cavalry Protocol Martial Guard, Palace Forest Guard, Grand Food Palace Martial Guard, Food Server, and various palace Food Martial Guard: temporarily black sash, given cinnabar collar, and military cap. Those bearing Martial Fierce, Commandant, and other rank seals all followed the above temporary purse and sash precedent.
108
其在陛列及備鹵簿,五騎武賁,服錦文衣,毼尾。 宰人服離支衣。 領軍捉刃人,烏總帽,袴褶,皮帶。
When in imperial stair ranks and preparing the guard of honor, Five-Cavalry Martial Guard wore brocade-pattern robe and yak-tail ornament. Food servers wore lychee garment. Army Commander blade-bearers: black felt cap, jacket-trousers, and leather belt.
109
絓是羽葆毦鼓吹,悉改著進賢冠,外給系毦。 鼓吹著武冠。 諸官鼓吹,尚書廊下都坐門下使守藏守閣、殿中威儀騶,武賁常直殿門雲龍門者、門下左右部武賁羽林騶,給傳事者諸導騶門下中書守閣、尚書門下武賁羽林騶,蘭台五曹節藏僕射廊下守閣、威儀發符騶,都水使者廊下守給騶,謁者威儀騶,諸宮謁者騶,絳曈,武冠,衣服如舊。 大誰、天門士,皁科單衣,樊噲冠。 衛士,涅布曈,卻敵冠。
Feather-canopy feathered drummers all changed to advance-the-worthy cap, externally given feather ties. Drummers wore military cap. Drummers of various offices, secretariat corridor attendants, palace martial guard regular attendants, gate outriders, protocol outriders, Orchid Terrace attendants, Waterways attendants, and Masters of Ceremonies outriders: cinnabar headband, military cap, dress as before. Grand Who and Heaven Gate Guard: black-pattern single garment and Fan Kuai cap. Guard soldiers: black-cloth headband and enemy-repelling cap.
110
諸將軍、使持節、都督執節史,朱衣,進賢一梁冠。 自此條已下皆陳制,梁所無。
Generals, Bearer of Staff and Seal, and Supervisors holding staff clerks: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. From this entry down, all are Chen regulations; what Liang lacked.
111
持節節史,單衣,介幘。 其纂戎戒嚴時,同使持節。 制假節節史,單衣,介幘。 凡節趺,以石為之。 持節皆刻為鞶螭形,假節及給蠻夷節,皆刻為狗頭趺。
Staff Bearer clerks: single garment and jie cap. When gathering troops for alert, same as Bearer of Staff and Seal. Acting Staff clerks: single garment and jie cap. All staff bases were made of stone. Bearer of Staff all carved as purse-dragon form; Acting Staff and staff for barbarians all carved as dog-head base.
112
諸王典簽帥,單衣,平巾幘。 典簽書吏,袴褶,平巾幘。
Princes' Record Commanders: single garment and flat-top cap. Record clerks: jacket-trousers and flat-top cap.
113
諸王書佐,單衣,介幘。
Princes' record assistants: single garment and jie cap.
114
公府書佐,朱衣,進賢冠。
Ducal office record assistants: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy cap.
115
諸王國舍人、司理、謁者、閤下令史、中衛都尉,朱衣,進賢一梁冠。 司理假銅印,謁者高山冠,令史已下武冠。
Princes' household Attendants, Administrator, Masters of Ceremonies, pavilion record clerks, and Central Guard Commandant: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap. Administrator temporarily bronze seal; Masters of Ceremonies wore lofty mountain cap; record clerks and below wore military cap.
116
太子太傅五官功曹、主簿,皁朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Crown Prince Grand Tutor Five Offices Merit Officer and Chief Clerk: black court dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
117
太子二傅門下主記、錄事、功曹書佐,門下書佐,記室帳下督、都督省事,法曹書佐,太傅外都督,皁衣,進賢一梁冠。
Crown Prince Second Tutor gate record clerks, secretariat tent Supervisor, Law Bureau record assistants, and Grand Tutor external Supervisor: black robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
118
太子妃家令,絳朝服,進賢一梁冠。
Crown Prince consort Household Director: cinnabar court dress and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
119
太子三校、二將,積弩、殿中將軍,衣服皆與上宮官同。
Crown Prince Three Camps and Two Generals and Strong Crossbow and Palace Generals—dress all same as upper palace officers.
120
太子正員司馬督、題閣監,銅印墨綬三校內主事、主章、扶侍,守舍人,衣帶仗局、服飾衣局、珍寶朝廷主衣統,奏事幹,內局內幹,朱衣,武冠。
Crown Prince regular Marshals and Supervisors and various inside attendants: vermilion robe and military cap.
121
諸公府禦屬及省事,錄尚書省事,太子門下及內外監丞、典事、導客、算書吏,次功、典書函、典書、典經、五經典書諸守宮舍人,市買清慎食官督,內直兵吏,宣華、崇賢二門舍人,諸門吏,朱衣,進賢一梁冠。
Various ducal office attendants, Director of Masters of Writing managing affairs, Crown Prince gate assistants and record clerks, and various gate clerks: vermilion robe and advance-the-worthy one-ribbed cap.
122
太子妃傳令,朱衣,武冠,執刀,烏信幡。
Crown Prince consort protocol bearer: vermilion robe, military cap, holding blade, and black signal banner.
123
太子二傅騎吏,玄衣,赤幘,武冠,常行則袴褶。 執儀、齋帥、殿帥、典儀帥、傳令、執刀戟、主蓋扇麾傘、殿上持兵、車郎、扶車、注疏、萌床、齋閣食司馬、唱導飯、主食、殿前帥、殿前威儀、武賁威儀、散給使、閣將、鼓吹士帥副,武冠,絳褠。 案軛、小輿、持車、軺車給使,平巾幘,黃布袴褶,赤罽帶。
Crown Prince Second Tutor cavalry clerks: dark robe, red headband, and military cap; for regular travel, jacket-trousers. Ceremony bearers, fasting commanders, hall commanders, protocol bearers, weapon and canopy bearers, chariot attendants, food marshals, and drum commander deputies: military cap and cinnabar collar. Yoke handlers, small palanquin, chariot attendants, and light chariot attendants: flat-top cap, yellow cloth jacket-trousers, and red felt belt.
124
太子諸門將,涅布曈,樊噲冠。
Crown Prince various gate generals: black-cloth headband and Fan Kuai cap.
125
太子鹵簿戟吏,赤幘,武冠,絳褠。 廉帥、整陣、禁防,平巾幘,白布袴褶。 銚角五音帥、長麾,青布袴褶,岑帽,絳絞帶。 都伯,平巾幘,黃布袴褶。
Crown Prince guard of honor halberd clerks: red headband, military cap, and cinnabar collar. Line commanders, array formation, and forbidden defense: flat-top cap and white cloth jacket-trousers. Five-tone commanders and long banners: blue cloth jacket-trousers, Cen cap, and cinnabar braided belt. Squad leaders: flat-top cap and yellow cloth jacket-trousers.
126
文官曹幹,白紗單衣、介幘。 尚書二台曹幹亦同。
Civil bureau attendants: white gauze single garment and jie cap. Masters of Writing Two Bureaus attendants likewise.
127
武官問訊、將士給使,平巾幘,白布袴褶。
Military bureau inquiry, soldiers, and attendants: flat-top cap and white cloth jacket-trousers.
128
通天冠,高九寸,正豎頂,少斜卻,乃直下,鐵為卷梁,前有展筒,冠前加金博山、述。 乘輿所常服。
Tongtian cap, nine cun high, upright peak, slightly slanting back then straight down, iron as rolled beam, front has extended tube, before cap added gold Boshan and shu. What the emperor regularly wore.
129
遠遊冠,制似通天,而前無山、述,有展筒,橫於冠前。 皇太子及王者後、諸王服之。 諸王加官者,自服其官之冠服,唯太子及王者後常冠焉。 太子則以翠羽為緌,綴以白珠。 其餘但青絲而已。
Far-wandering cap, form like tongtian but front without mountain and shu, with extended tube horizontal before cap. Crown Prince and princes' heirs and all princes wore it. Princes with added offices wore their added office's cap and dress; only the Crown Prince and princes' heirs regularly wore this cap. The Crown Prince used kingfisher feathers as tassel, strung with white pearls. The rest only blue silk.
130
進賢冠,古緇布冠遺象也,斯蓋文儒者之服。 前高七寸,後高三寸,長八寸。 有五梁、三梁、二梁、一梁之別。 五梁唯天子所服,其三梁已下,為臣高卑之別云。
Advance-the-worthy cap, ancient dark cloth cap vestige—this is essentially the dress of literary scholars. Front seven cun high, rear three cun high, eight cun long. There were five-ribbed, three-ribbed, two-ribbed, and one-ribbed distinctions. Five-ribbed only the Son of Heaven wore; three-ribbed and below marked ministers' high and low distinction.
131
武冠,一名武弁,一名大冠,一名繁冠,一名建冠,今人名曰籠冠,即古惠文冠也。 天子元服,亦先加大冠。 今左右侍臣及諸將軍武官通服之。 侍中常侍,則加金璫附蟬焉,插以貂尾,黃金為飾云。
Military cap, also called military cap, great cap, dense cap, and establishment cap—people today call it cage cap, the ancient Huiwen cap. The Son of Heaven's capping ceremony also first added great cap. Now left-right attendants and all generals and military officers universally wore it. Attendant-in-Ordinary and Regular Attendant then added gold ornament with cicada and sable tail inserted, gold as ornament.
132
高山冠,一名側注,高九寸,鐵為卷梁。 制似通天,頂直豎,不斜,無山述展筒。 高山者,取其矜莊賓遠,中外謁者僕射服之。
Lofty mountain cap, also called side-pour, nine cun high, iron as rolled beam. Form like tongtian, peak straight upright, not slanting, no mountain shu extended tube. Lofty mountain—taking dignified distance; inner and outer Masters of Ceremonies Attendants-in-Ordinary wore it.
133
法冠,一名柱後,或謂之獬豸冠,高五寸,以縰為展筒,鐵為柱卷,取其不曲撓也。 侍御史、廷尉正監平,凡執法官皆服之。
Law cap, also called pillar-back, also called xiezhi cap, five cun high, using cord as extended tube, iron as pillar roll—taking not bending. Attending Censor, Director of Justice Director and Supervisor, and all law-enforcing officers wore it.
134
鶡冠,猶大冠也,加雙鶡尾,豎插兩邊,故以名焉。 武賁中郎將、羽林監、節騎郎,在陛列及鹵簿者服之。
He cap, like great cap, adding double he tail, vertically inserted both sides—hence the name. Martial Guard Central Commandant, Forest Guard Supervisor, and Protocol Cavalry Officer—when in imperial stair ranks and guard of honor wore it.
135
長冠,一名齋冠。 高七寸,廣三寸,漆纚為之。 制如版,以竹為裡。 漢高祖微時,以竹皮為此冠,所謂劉氏冠。 後除竹,用漆纚焉。 司馬彪曰:「長冠,楚制也。 人間或謂之鵲尾冠,非也。」 後代以為祭服,尊敬之也。 至天監三年,祠部郎沈宏議:「案竹葉冠,是高祖為亭長時所服,安可綿代為祭服哉? 《禮》:『士弁祭於公。』 請令太常丞、博士奉齋之服,宜改用爵弁。」 明山賓同宏議。 司馬褧云:「若必遵三王,則懼所改非一。 長冠謂宜仍舊。 案今之宗丞博士之服,未有可非。」 帝竟不改。
Long cap, also called fasting cap. Seven cun high, three cun wide, made of lacquered cord. Form like board, bamboo as lining. Emperor Gaozu in humble times wore this cap of bamboo skin—the so-called Liu clan cap. Later removed bamboo, used lacquered cord. Sima Biao said: "Long cap, Chu system. People sometimes call it magpie-tail cap—this is wrong." Later generations took it as sacrificial dress, out of respect. By Tianjian 3, Director of Sacrifice Affairs Shen Hong proposed: "Examining the bamboo-leaf cap—Gaozu wore it as pavilion chief; how can it be sacrificial dress for generations? The Rites: 'Scholars wear cap to sacrifice for the lord. Request that Director of Ceremonial Affairs assistants and erudites' fasting dress should change to use cap." Ming Shanbin agreed with Hong's proposal. " Sima Rong said: "If one must follow the Three Dynasties, I fear the changes would not be one. Long cap should remain as before. Examining present ancestral temple assistants and erudites' dress, nothing to reject." The emperor ultimately did not change.
136
建華冠,以鐵為柱卷,貫大銅珠九枚。 祀天地、五郊、明堂,舞人服之。
Jianhua cap, using iron as pillar roll, threading nine large copper beads. Sacrificing Heaven and Earth, Five Suburbs, and Bright Hall—dancers wore it.
137
樊噲冠,廣九寸,高七寸,前後出各四寸,制似平冕。 凡殿門司馬衛士服之。
Fan Kuai cap, nine cun wide, seven cun high, front and rear each projecting four cun, form like flat crown. All palace gate marshals and guard soldiers wore it.
138
卻敵冠,高四寸,通長四寸,後高三寸,制似進賢冠。 凡宮殿門衛士服之。
Enemy-repelling cap, four cun high, total length four cun, rear three cun high, form like advance-the-worthy cap. All palace gate guard soldiers wore it.
139
卻非冠,高五寸,制似長冠。 宮殿門吏僕射冠之。
Quefei cap, five cun high, form like long cap. Palace gate clerks and Attendants-in-Ordinary wore it.
140
幘,尊卑貴賤皆服之。 文者長耳,謂之介幘; 武者短耳,謂之平上幘。 各稱其冠而制之。 尚書令、僕射、尚書幘,收方三寸,名曰納言。 未冠童子幘,無屋,施假髻者,示未成人也。
The cap—noble and base, high and low, all wore it. Civil ones had long ears, called jie cap; Military ones had short ears, called flat-top cap. Each matched its crown in making. Director, Vice Director, and Masters of Writing caps, gathered square three cun, called remonstrance. Uncapped youths' caps, no roof, with false topknot—showing not yet adult.
141
幍,《傅子》云:「先未有歧,荀文若巾觸樹成歧,時人慕之,因而弗改。」 今通為慶吊之服。 白紗為之,或單或裌。 初婚冠送餞亦服之。
The cap—Fu Zi said: at first there was no peak; Xun Wenruo's cap touched a tree forming a peak; people admired it and never changed. Now universally used as congratulatory and mourning dress. White gauze made, single or lined. Initial marriage capping send-off also wore it.
142
巾,國子生服,白紗為之。 晉太元中,國子生見祭酒博士,單衣,角巾,執經一卷,以代手版。 宋末,闕其制。 齊立學,太尉王儉更造。 今形如之。
Headcloth: Imperial Academy students wore it, white gauze made. In Jin Taiyuan, Imperial Academy students seeing the Director of Ceremonial Affairs erudite: single garment, horn headcloth, holding one scroll of classics in place of hand tablet. At the end of Song, the system was lost. Qi established the academy; Grand Commandant Wang Jian recreated it. Now the form is like it.
143
帽,自天子下及士人,通冠之。 以白紗者,名高頂帽。 皇太子在上省則烏紗,在永福省則白紗。 又有繒皁雜紗為之,高屋下裙,蓋無定準。
Hat—from Son of Heaven down to scholars, universally worn over crown. White gauze ones called high-peak hat. Crown Prince in upper secretariat then black gauze; in Yongfu secretariat white gauze. Also silk black mixed gauze made, high roof lower skirt—no fixed standard.
144
袴褶,近代服以從戎。 今纂嚴,則文武百官咸服之。 車駕親戎,則縛袴,不舒散也。 中官紫褶,外官絳褶,腰皮帶,以代鞶革。
Jacket-trousers: modern dress for following military campaigns. Now when gathering troops for alert, civil and military officials all wore it. When the emperor personally took the field, trousers were bound, not loosened. Palace officials purple jacket-trousers, outer officials cinnabar jacket-trousers, waist leather belt in place of purse leather.
145
笏,中世以來,唯八座尚書執笏。 笏者白筆綴其頭,以紫囊裹之。 其餘公卿,但執手版。 荷紫者,以紫生為裌囊,綴之服外,加于左肩。 周遷云:「昔周公負成王,制此衣,至今以為朝服。」 蕭驕子云:「名契囊。」 案《趙充國傳》云:「張子孺持囊簪筆,事孝武帝。」 張晏云:「囊,契囊也。 近臣負囊簪筆,從備顧問,有所記也。」
Hand tablet—since middle antiquity, only the Eight Seats Masters of Writing held the hand tablet. The tablet had white brush attached at head, wrapped in purple pouch. Other dukes and ministers only held hand board. Purple satchel bearers used purple raw silk as lined pouch, attached outside dress on left shoulder. Zhou Qian said: formerly Duke of Zhou carried King Cheng on back, made this garment—still court dress today. Xiao Jiaozi said: called contract pouch. Examining Zhao Chongguo's biography: Zhang Ziru held pouch and writing brush, serving Emperor Wu. Zhang Yan said: pouch, contract pouch. Close attendants bore pouch and writing brush, ready for consultation and record.
146
入殿門,有籠冠者著之,有纓則下之。 緣廂行,得提衣。 省閣內得著履、烏紗帽。 入齋閣及橫度殿庭,不得人提衣及捉服飾。 入閣則執手板,自摳衣。 幾席不得入齋正閣。 介幘不得上正殿及東西堂。 儀仗傘扇,有幰牽車,不得入台門。 台官問訊皇太子,亦皆朱服,著襪; 謁諸王,單衣,幘; 庶姓,單衣,帢。 詣三公,必衣帢。 至黃閣,下履,過閣還,著履。
Entering palace gate, those with caged crowns wore them; if chin strap, then lowered it. Along corridor one could lift garment. Inside bureaus one could wear shoes and black gauze hat. Entering fasting pavilion and crossing hall courtyard, one could not lift garment or grasp dress ornaments. Entering pavilion then held hand board, self-gathered garment. Low tables and mats could not enter fasting main pavilion. Jie cap could not ascend main hall and east-west halls. Ceremonial umbrellas and fans and covered chariots could not enter secretariat gate. Secretariat officials inquiring of Crown Prince all also wore vermilion dress and socks; Visiting princes: single garment and cap; Common surname: single garment and white cap. Visiting Three Dukes, must wear white cap. Reaching Yellow Pavilion, removed shoes; passing pavilion returned, put on shoes.
147
古者君臣佩玉,尊卑有序,綬者,所以貫佩相承受也。 又上下施韍,如蔽膝,貴賤亦各有殊。 五霸之後,戰兵不息,佩非兵器,韍非戰儀,於是解去佩韍,留其繫禭而已。 韍佩既廢,秦乃以采組連結於禭,轉相結受,又謂之綬。 漢承用之。 至明帝始復製佩,而漢末又亡絕。 魏侍中王粲識其形,乃復造焉。 今之佩,粲所制也。
Anciently lord and minister wore jade pendants; noble and base had order; the sash was what strung pendants to receive each other. Also above and below had knee cover like apron; noble and base also each differed. After the Five Hegemons, war and weapons unceasing, pendants not weapons, knee covers not battle ritual—thereupon removed pendants and knee covers, keeping only the tie and ribbon. Knee cover and pendant abolished, Qin then used colored cords linked to ribbon, mutually receiving in turn, also called sash. Han inherited and used it. By Emperor Ming restored making pendants; Han end again lost entirely. Wei Attendant-in-Ordinary Wang Can knew its form, then recreated it. Present pendants, Can made them.
148
皇后謁廟,服袿䙱大衣,蓋嫁服也,謂之褘衣,皁上皁下。 親蠶則青上縹下。 皆深衣制,隱領袖,緣以條。 首飾則假髻、步搖,俗謂之珠松是也。 簪珥步搖,以黃金為山題,貫白珠,為桂枝相繆。 八爵九華,熊、獸、赤羆、天鹿、辟邪、南山豐大特六獸。 諸爵獸皆以翡翠為華。 綬佩同乘輿。
Empress visiting temple wore gui-yi great robe—essentially marriage dress, called hui robe, black above black below. For personal silkworm then green above light blue below. All deep-garment form, hidden collar sleeves, edged with strips. Head ornaments then false topknot and step-sway—popularly called pearl pine. Hairpin ear ornaments step-sway, using gold as mountain topic, threading white pearls, as cassia branches entwined. Eight finches nine splendors, bear, beast, red bear, heaven deer, ward-off-evil, south mountain great special six beasts. All finch beasts all used kingfisher as splendor. Sash and girdle ornaments same as imperial carriage.
149
貴妃、貴嬪、貴姬,是為三夫人,金章龜紐,紫綬,八十首佩于闐玉,獸頭鞶。
Noble Consort, Noble Lady, and Noble Concubine—these are the Three Ladies: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel, wearing Khotan jade, beast-head purse.
150
淑嬡、淑儀、淑容、昭華、昭儀、昭容、修華、修儀,修容,是為九嬪,金章龜鈕,青綬,八十首獸頭鞶,佩采瓄玉。
Pure Lady, Pure Conduct, Pure Appearance, Bright Splendor, Bright Conduct, Bright Appearance, Cultivated Splendor, Cultivated Conduct, and Cultivated Appearance—these are the Nine Concubines: gold seal with turtle knob, blue sash, eighty tassel, beast-head purse, wearing colored jade.
151
婕妤、容華、充華、承徽、列榮五職,亞九嬪,銀印珪鈕,艾綬,獸頭鞶。
Lady of Handsome Grace, Splendid Appearance, Full Splendor, Bearing Emblem, and Arrayed Glory Five Offices—subordinate to Nine Concubines: silver seal with gui knob, mugwort sash, beast-head purse.
152
美人、才人、良人三職,散位,銅印環鈕,墨綬,獸頭鞶。
Beauty, Talented Lady, and Good Lady Three Offices—unranked: bronze seal with ring knob, black sash, beast-head purse.
153
皇太子妃,金璽龜鈕,纁朱綬,一百六十首佩瑜玉,獸頭鞶。
Crown Princess Consort: gold seal with turtle knob, light vermilion sash, one hundred sixty tassel, wearing fine jade, beast-head purse.
154
良娣,銀印珪鈕,佩采瓄玉,青綬,八十首獸爪鞶。
Good Companion: silver seal with gui knob, wearing colored jade, blue sash, eighty tassel, beast-claw purse.
155
保林,銀印珪鈕,佩水蒼玉,青綬,八十首獸爪鞶。
Protecting Forest: silver seal with gui knob, wearing water-dark jade, blue sash, eighty tassel, beast-claw purse.
156
諸王太妃、妃、諸長公主、公主、封君,金印龜鈕,紫綬,八十首佩山玄玉,獸頭鞶。
Princes' Grand Consort, Consort, Grand Princesses, Princesses, and Enfeoffed Ladies: gold seal with turtle knob, purple sash, eighty tassel, wearing mountain dark jade, beast-head purse.
157
開國公、侯太夫人,銀印珪鈕,青綬,八十首佩水蒼玉,獸頭鞶。
Grand Lady of Duke and Marquis who founded a state: silver seal with gui knob, blue sash, eighty tassel, wearing water-dark jade, beast-head purse.
158
公主、三夫人,大手髻,七鈿蔽髻。 九嬪及公夫人,五鈿; 世婦,三鈿。 其長公主得有步搖。 公主、封君已上,皆帶綬。 以彩組為緄帶,各以其綬色。 金辟邪,首為帶玦。
Princesses and Three Ladies: great topknot, seven stud covered topknot. Nine Concubines and ducal ladies: five studs; Palace ladies: three studs. Grand Princesses could have step-sway. Princesses, Enfeoffed Ladies, and above all wore sash. Using colored cords as wrapped belt, each according to its sash color. Gold ward-off-evil head as belt clasp.
159
公、特進、列侯、卿、校、中二千石夫人,紺繒幗,黃金龍首銜白珠,魚須擿,長一尺,為簪珥。 入廟佐祭者,皁絹上下,助蠶者,縹絹上下,皆深衣制,緣自二千石夫人已上至皇后,皆以蠶衣為朝服。
Ducal, Special Advance, Ranked Marquis, Minister, Commandant, and palace attendant of two thousand shi ladies: dark silk kerchief, gold dragon head holding white pearl, fish-whisker hairpin one chi long, as hairpin ear ornaments. Entering temple assisting sacrifice: black silk above and below; assisting silkworm: light blue silk above and below—all deep-garment form; from palace attendant of two thousand shi ladies up to empress, all used silkworm robe as court dress.
160
自晉左遷,中原禮儀多缺。 後魏天興六年,詔有司始制冠冕,各依品秩,以示等差,然未能皆得舊制。 至太和中,方考故實,正定前謬,更造衣冠,尚不能周洽。 及至熙平二年,太傅、清河王懌、黃門侍郎韋廷祥等,奏定五時朝服,准漢故事,五郊衣幘,各如方色焉。 及後齊因之。 河清中,改易舊物,著令定制云。
Since Jin moved east, Central Plains ritual and ceremony mostly lacked. Later Wei Tianxing 6, edict ordered relevant offices first to make crowns and robes, each according to rank, showing gradation—but could not all obtain the old system. By Grand Harmony middle, then examined old facts, corrected former errors, newly made caps and robes—still could not be complete. By Xiping 2, Grand Tutor Prince Qinghe Yi, Attendant of the Yellow Gate Wei Tingxiang, and others memorialized fixing five-season court dress, following Han precedent, Five Suburbs caps and headcloths each according to directional color. Later Qi followed this. Heqing middle, changed old objects, recorded fixed regulations.
161
乘輿,平冕,黑介幘,垂白珠十二旒,飾以五采玉,以組為纓,色如其綬,黈纊,玉笄。 白玉璽,黃赤綬,五采,黃赤縹綠紺,純黃質,長二丈九尺,五百首,廣一尺二寸。 小綬長三尺二寸,與綬同采,而首半之。 袞服,皁衣,絳裳,裳前三幅,後四幅,織成為之,十二章,緣絳中單,織成緄帶,朱紱,佩白玉,帶鹿盧劍,絳袴襪,赤舄。 未加元服,則空頂介幘。 又有通天金博山冠,則絳紗袍,皁緣中單。 其五時服,則五色介幘,進賢五梁冠,五色紗袍。 又有遠遊五梁冠,並不通於下。 四時祭廟、圓丘、方澤、明堂、五郊、封禪、大雩、出宮行事、正旦受朝及臨軒拜王公,皆服袞冕之服。 還宮及齋,則服通天冠。 籍田則冠冕,璪十二旒,佩蒼玉,黃綬,青帶,青襪,青舄。 拜陵則黑介幘,白紗單衣。 釋奠則服通天金博山冠,玄紗袍。 春分朝日,則青紗朝服,青舄,秋分夕月,則白紗朝服,緗舄,俱冠五梁進賢冠。 合朔,服通天金博山冠,絳紗袍。 季秋講武、出征告廟,冠武弁,黃金附蟬,左貂。 祃類宜社,武弁,朱衣。 纂嚴升殿,服通天金博山冠,絳紗袍。 入溫、涼室,冠武弁,右貂附蟬,絳紗服。 征還飲至,服通天冠。 廟中遣上將,則袞冕,還宮則通天金博山冠。 賞祖罰社,則武弁,左貂附蟬。 元日、冬至大小會,皆通天金博山冠。 四時畋、出宮,服通天冠,並赤舄。 明堂則五時俱通天冠,各以其色服。 東、西堂舉哀,服白帢。
Imperial carriage: flat crown, black jie cap, hanging white pearl twelve tassels, ornamented with five-color jade, cords as chin strap color like sash, yellow tassels, jade hairpin. White jade seal, yellow-red sash, five colors, yellow red light blue green dark blue, pure yellow substance, two zhang nine chi long, five hundred tassel, one chi two cun wide. Small sash three chi two cun long, same colors as sash, tassel half. Dragon robe: black robe, cinnabar skirt, skirt three panels front four back, woven complete, twelve emblems, cinnabar-edged inner single garment, woven wrapped belt, vermilion strap, wearing white jade, belt Lulu sword, cinnabar trousers and socks, red shoes. Before receiving capping ceremony, open-topped jie cap. Also tongtian gold Boshan cap, then cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed inner robe. Five-season dress then five-color jie cap, advance-the-worthy five-ribbed cap, five-color gauze robe. Also far-wandering five-ribbed cap, both not passed to subordinates. Four-season temple sacrifice, Round Mound, Square Pond, Bright Hall, Five Suburbs, feng and shan, great rain prayer, leaving palace on business, New Year receiving court and throne audience bowing to dukes and ministers—all wore dragon robe and crown dress. Returning to palace and fasting, then wore tongtian cap. Sacred field then crown, twelve tassel gems, wearing dark jade, yellow sash, blue belt, blue socks, and blue shoes. Paying respects at tombs then black jie cap, white gauze single garment. Libation sacrifice then wore tongtian gold Boshan cap, dark gauze robe. Spring equinox morning sun then blue gauze court dress, blue shoes; autumn equinox evening moon then white gauze court dress, light red shoes—both five-ribbed advance-the-worthy cap. New moon then wore tongtian gold Boshan cap and cinnabar gauze robe. Autumn ninth month military review and expedition announcing temple: military cap, gold cicada attached, left sable. Ma and lei rites: military cap and vermilion robe. Gathering troops ascending hall: tongtian gold Boshan cap and cinnabar gauze robe. Entering warm and cool chambers: military cap, right sable cicada attached, cinnabar gauze dress. Campaign return drinking ceremony: tongtian cap. Temple dispatching great general then dragon robe and crown; returning palace then tongtian gold Boshan cap. Rewarding ancestors punishing altars then military cap, left sable cicada attached. New Year's Day and winter solstice major and minor assemblies all tongtian gold Boshan cap. Four-season hunt and leaving palace: tongtian cap, all red shoes. Bright Hall then five seasons all tongtian cap, each its color dress. East-west hall expressing mourning: white cap.
162
天子六璽:文曰「皇帝行璽」,封常行詔敕則用之。 「皇帝之璽」,賜諸王書則用之。 「皇帝信璽」,下銅獸符,發諸州征鎮兵,下竹使符,拜代徵召諸州刺史,則用之。 並白玉為之,方一寸二分,螭獸鈕。 「天子行璽」,封拜外國則用之。 「天子之璽」,賜諸外國書則用之。 「天子信璽」,發兵外國,若徵召外國,及有事鬼神,則用之。 並黃金為之,方一寸二分,螭獸鈕。 又有傳國璽,白玉為之,方四寸,螭獸鈕,上交五蟠螭,隱起鳥篆書。 文曰「受天之命,皇帝壽昌」,凡八字。 在六璽外,唯封禪以封石函。 又有督攝萬機印一鈕,以木為之,長一尺二寸,廣二寸五分。 背上為鼻鈕,鈕長九寸,厚一寸,廣七分。 腹下隱起篆書為「督攝萬機」,凡四字。 此印常在內,唯以印籍縫。 用則左戶郎中、度支尚書奏取,印訖輸內。
Son of Heaven six seals: text reads "Emperor Traveling Seal"—for sealing regular edicts and orders. "Emperor's Seal"—for bestowing letters to kings. "Emperor Trust Seal"—for issuing bronze beast tallies dispatching troops from prefectures and bamboo envoy tallies summoning prefectural governors. All white jade made, square one cun two fen, dragon-beast knob. "Son of Heaven Traveling Seal"—for sealing enfeoffment of foreign states. "Son of Heaven's Seal"—for bestowing letters to foreign states. "Son of Heaven Trust Seal"—for dispatching troops to foreign states, summoning foreign states, and matters concerning spirits. All gold made, square one cun two fen, dragon-beast knob. Also Heirloom Seal, white jade made, square four cun, dragon-beast knob, above five coiled dragons, hidden raised bird seal script. Text reads "Receiving Heaven's Mandate, Emperor Long Life"—in all eight characters. Outside the six seals, only feng and shan to seal stone casket. Also Overseeing All Affairs seal one knob, wood made, one chi two cun long, two cun five fen wide. Back had nose knob, knob nine cun long, one cun thick, seven fen wide. Belly below hidden raised seal script "Overseeing All Affairs"—in all four characters. This seal always inside, only used to seal register stitching. When used, Left Household Central Commandant and Revenue Master of Writing memorialized to take; after sealing returned inside.
163
皇太子平冕,黑介幘,垂白珠九旒,飾以三采玉,以組為纓,色如其綬,金璽,朱綬,四采,赤黃縹紺。 綬朱質,長二丈一尺,三百二十首,廣九寸。 小綬長三尺二寸,與綬同色,而首半之。 袞服,同乘輿而九章,絳紱,佩瑜玉,玉具劍、火珠標首,絳袴襪,赤舄。 非謁廟則不服。 未加元服,則空頂黑介幘,雙童髻,雙玉導。 中舍人執遠遊冠以從。 其遠遊三梁冠,黑介幘,翠緌纓,絳紗袍,皁緣中單,黑舄。 大朝所服,亦服進賢三梁冠,黑介幘,皁朝服,絳緣中單,玄舄。 為宮臣舉哀,白帢,單衣,烏皮履。 未加元服,則素服。
Crown Prince flat crown, black jie cap, hanging white pearl nine tassels, ornamented with three-color jade, cords as chin strap color like sash, gold seal, vermilion sash, four colors red yellow light blue dark blue. Sash vermilion substance, two zhang one chi long, three hundred twenty tassel, nine cun wide. Small sash three chi two cun long, same color as sash, tassel half. Dragon robe same as imperial carriage but nine emblems, cinnabar strap, wearing fine jade, jade-fitted sword fire-pearl head, cinnabar trousers and socks, red shoes. Not visiting temple then not worn. Before receiving capping ceremony then open-topped black jie cap, double youth topknot, double jade guides. Palace attendant held far-wandering cap and followed. Far-wandering three-ribbed cap, black jie cap, kingfisher tassel chin strap, cinnabar gauze robe, black-trimmed inner robe, black shoes. Great court dress also advance-the-worthy three-ribbed cap, black jie cap, black court dress, cinnabar-trimmed inner single garment, dark shoes. Expressing mourning for palace officials: white cap, single garment, black leather shoes. Before receiving capping ceremony then plain dress.
164
皇太子璽,黃金為之,方一寸,龜鈕,文曰「皇太子璽」。 宮中大事用璽,小事用門下典書坊印。
Crown Prince seal, gold made, square one cun, turtle knob, text reads "Crown Prince Seal." Palace great affairs used seal; minor affairs used gate Secretariat Record Bureau seal.
165
諸公卿平冕,黑介幘,青珠為旒,上公九,三公八,諸卿六,以組為纓,色如其綬。 衣皆玄上纁下。 三公山龍八章,降皇太子一等,九卿藻火六章,唯郊祀天地宗廟服之。
Dukes and ministers flat crown, black jie cap, blue pearl tassels: upper duke nine, three dukes eight, ministers six, cords as chin strap color like sash. Robes all black above vermilion below. Three dukes mountain dragon eight emblems, one rank below Crown Prince; Nine Ministers waterweed fire six emblems—only suburban sacrifice to Heaven, Earth, and ancestral temple.
166
遠遊三梁,諸王所服。 其未冠,則空頂黑介幘。 開國公、侯、伯、子、男及五等散爵未冠者,通如之。
Far-wandering three-ribbed—what princes wore. Those not yet capped then open-topped black jie cap. Duke, marquis, viscount, and baron who founded states and five-rank unenfeoffed nobles not yet capped—all likewise.
167
進賢冠,文官二品已上,並三梁,四品已上,並兩梁,五品已下,流外九品已上,皆一梁。 致事者,通著委貌冠。 主兵官及侍臣,通著武弁。 侍臣加貂璫。 御史、大理著法冠。 諸謁者、太子中導客舍人,著高山冠。 宮門僕射、殿門吏、亭長、太子率更寺、宮門督、太子內坊察非吏、諸門吏等,皆著卻非冠。 羽林、武賁,著鶡冠。 錄令已下,尚書以上,著納言幘。 又有赤幘,卑賤者所服。 救日蝕,文武官皆免冠,著赤介幘,對朝服。 賤者平巾,赤幘,示威武,以助于陽也。 止雨亦服之。 請雨則服緗幘,東耕則服青幘,庖人則服綠幘。
Advance-the-worthy cap: civil officials second rank and above all three-ribbed; fourth rank and above all two-ribbed; fifth rank and below and outside ranks ninth rank and above all one-ribbed. Retired officials universally wore appearance-deferring cap. Military officers and attendants universally wore military cap. Attendants added sable ornament. Censors and Court of Justice wore law cap. All Masters of Ceremonies, Crown Prince ushers and attendants wore lofty mountain cap. Palace gate Attendants-in-Ordinary, hall clerks, pavilion chiefs, Crown Prince Director of Ceremonial Affairs, palace gate supervisors, Crown Prince inside bureau inspectors, and various gate clerks—all wore quefei cap. Forest Guard and Martial Guard wore he cap. Director and below, Masters of Writing and above wore remonstrance cap. Also red headcloth—what base persons wore. Saving solar eclipse, civil and military officials all removed caps, wore red jie cap, facing court dress. Base persons flat cap, red headcloth, displaying martial power to assist yang. Stopping rain also wore it. Praying for rain then wore light red headcloth; east plowing then green headcloth; kitchen staff then green headcloth.
168
印綬,二品已上,並金章,紫綬; 三品銀章,青綬; 三品已上,凡是五省官及中侍中省,皆為印,不為章。 四品得印者,銀印,青綬; 五品、六品得印者,銅印,墨綬,四品已下,凡是開國子、男及五等散品名號侯,皆為銀章,不為印。 七品、八品、九品得印者,銅印,黃綬。 金銀章印及銅印,並方一寸,皆龜鈕。 東西南北四籓諸國王章,上籓用中金,中籓用下金,下籓用銀,並方寸,龜鈕。 佐官唯公府長史、尚書二丞,給印綬。 六品已下,九品已上,唯當曹為官長者給印。 余自非長官,雖位尊,並不給。
Seals and sashes: second rank and above all gold seal purple sash; Third rank silver seal blue sash; Third rank and above, all Five Bureaus officials and Central Attendant Bureau all seals not insignia. Fourth rank receiving seal: silver seal blue sash; Fifth and sixth rank receiving seal: bronze seal black sash; fourth rank and below, all founding viscounts and barons and five-rank unenfeoffed nominal marquis all silver insignia not seal. Seventh, eighth, and ninth rank receiving seal: bronze seal yellow sash. Gold silver insignia and bronze seal all square one cun, all turtle knobs. East south west north four frontier kingdom seals: upper frontier middle gold, middle frontier lower gold, lower frontier silver, all square one cun, turtle knobs. Assistant officials only ducal office chief clerk and Masters of Writing two assistants given seal sash. Sixth rank and below, ninth rank and above—only current bureau chiefs given seal. Others not chiefs, though high rank, all not given.
169
諸王纁朱綬,四采,赤黃縹紺,純朱質,纁文織,長二丈一尺,二百四十首,廣九寸。 開國郡縣公、散郡縣公,玄朱綬,四采,玄赤縹紺,朱質,玄文織,長一丈八尺,百八十首,廣八寸。 開國縣侯伯、散縣侯伯,青朱綬,四采,青赤白縹,朱質,青文織,長一丈六尺,百四十首,廣七寸。 開國縣子男、散縣子男、名號侯、開國鄉男,素朱綬,三采,青赤白,朱質,白文織,長一丈四尺,百二十首,廣六寸。 一品、二品,紫綬,三采,紫黃赤,純紫質,長一丈八尺,百八十首,廣八寸。 三品、四品,青綬,三采,青白紅,純青質,長一丈六尺,百四十首,廣七寸。 五品、六品,墨綬,二采,青紺,純紺質,長一丈四尺,百首,廣六寸。 七品、八品、九品,黃綬,二采,黃白,純黃質,長一丈二尺,六十首,廣五寸。 官品從第二已上,小綬間得施玉環。 凡綬,先合單紡為一絲,絲四為一扶,扶五為一首,首五成一文。 采純為質。 首多者絲細,首少者絲粗。 官有綬者,則有紛,皆長八尺,廣三寸,各隨綬色。 若服朝服則佩綬,服公服則佩紛。 官無綬者,不合佩紛。
Princes light vermilion sash, four colors red yellow light blue dark blue, pure vermilion substance, light vermilion pattern weave, two zhang one chi long, two hundred forty tassel, nine cun wide. Founding commandery and district duke, unenfeoffed commandery and district duke: dark vermilion sash, four colors dark red light blue dark blue, vermilion substance, dark pattern weave, one zhang eight chi long, one hundred eighty tassel, eight cun wide. Founding district marquis and viscount, unenfeoffed district marquis and viscount: blue vermilion sash, four colors blue red white light blue, vermilion substance, blue pattern weave, one zhang six chi long, one hundred forty tassel, seven cun wide. Founding district viscount and baron, unenfeoffed district viscount and baron, nominal marquis, founding township baron: plain vermilion sash, three colors blue red white, vermilion substance, white pattern weave, one zhang four chi long, one hundred twenty tassel, six cun wide. First and second rank, purple sash, three colors purple yellow red, pure purple substance, one zhang eight chi long, one hundred eighty tassel, eight cun wide. Third and fourth rank, blue sash, three colors blue white red, pure blue substance, one zhang six chi long, one hundred forty tassel, seven cun wide. Fifth and sixth rank, black sash, two colors blue dark blue, pure dark blue substance, one zhang four chi long, one hundred tassel, six cun wide. Seventh, eighth, and ninth rank, yellow sash, two colors yellow white, pure yellow substance, one zhang two chi long, sixty tassel, five cun wide. From second rank up, small sash could have jade ring. All sashes first combined single spun into one thread, four threads one fu, five fu one tassel, five tassel one pattern. Colors pure as substance. Many tassel fine thread; few tassel coarse thread. Offices with sash then had fringe, all eight chi long three cun wide, each following sash color. If wearing court dress then wore sash; if wearing public dress then wore fringe. Offices without sash should not wear fringe.
170
鞶囊,二品已上金縷,三品金銀縷,四品銀縷,五品、六品彩縷,七、八、九品彩縷,獸爪鞶。 官無印綬者,並不合佩鞶囊及爪。
Purse: second rank and above gold thread; third rank gold-silver thread; fourth rank silver thread; fifth and sixth rank colored thread; seventh, eighth, and ninth rank colored thread, beast-claw purse. Offices without seal sash all should not wear purse and claw.
171
一品,玉具劍,佩山玄玉。 二品,金裝劍,佩水蒼玉。 三品及開國子男、五等散品名號侯雖四、五品,並銀裝劍,佩水蒼玉。 侍中已下,通直郎已上,陪位則像劍。 帶真劍者,入宗廟及升殿,若在仗內,皆解劍。 一品及散郡公、開國公侯伯,皆雙佩。 二品、三品及開國子男、五等散品名號侯,皆雙佩。 綬亦如之。
First rank, jade-fitted sword, wearing mountain dark jade. Second rank, gold-mounted sword, wearing water-dark jade. Third rank and founding viscount and baron, five-rank unenfeoffed nominal marquis though fourth fifth rank—all silver-mounted sword, wearing water-dark jade. From Attendant-in-Ordinary down, Direct Communication Gentleman up—attending seat then ceremonial sword. Those bearing real sword entering ancestral temple and ascending hall—if in guard formation all removed sword. First rank and unenfeoffed commandery duke, founding duke marquis viscount—all double girdle ornaments. Second and third rank and founding viscount baron, five-rank unenfeoffed nominal marquis—all double girdle ornaments. Sash likewise.
172
百官朝服公服,皆執手板。 尚書錄令、僕射、吏部尚書,手板頭復有白筆,以紫皮裹之,名曰笏。 朝服綴紫荷,錄令、左僕射左荷,右僕射、吏部尚書右荷。 七品已上文官朝服,皆簪白筆。 正王公侯伯子男、卿尹及武職,並不簪。 朝服,冠、幘各一,絳紗單衣,白紗中單,皁領袖,皁襈,革帶,曲領,方心,蔽膝,白筆、舄、襪,兩綬,劍佩,簪導,鉤灊,為具服。 七品已上服也。 公服,冠、幘,紗單衣,深衣,革帶,假帶,履襪,鉤灊,謂之從省服。 八品已下,流外四品已上服也。
All officials court dress and public dress all held hand board. Director of Masters of Writing, Vice Director, Director of Personnel hand board head again had white brush, purple leather wrapped, called tablet. Court dress attached purple satchel; Director left satchel, left Vice Director left satchel, right Vice Director and Director of Personnel right satchel. Seventh rank and above civil officials court dress all wore white brush in hair. Regular dukes marquises viscounts barons, ministers governors and military offices—all did not wear in hair. Court dress: crown, cap each one, cinnabar gauze single garment, white gauze inner single garment, black collar sleeves, black trim, leather belt, curved collar, square heart, apron, white brush shoes and socks, two sashes, sword girdle ornaments, hairpin guide, hook pendant—complete dress. Seventh rank and above wore. Public dress: crown, cap, gauze single garment, deep garment, leather belt, false belt, shoes and socks, hook pendant—called reduced dress. Eighth rank and below and outside ranks fourth rank and above wore.
173
流外五品已下,九品已上,皆著褠衣為公服。
Outside ranks fifth rank and below and ninth rank and above all wore collar garment as public dress.
174
皇后璽、綬、佩同乘輿,假髻,步搖,十二鈿,八雀九華。 助祭朝會以褘衣,祠郊禖以褕狄,小宴以闕狄,親蠶以鞠衣,禮見皇帝以展衣,宴居以褖衣。 六服俱有蔽膝、織成緄帶。 皇太后、皇后璽,並以白玉為之,方一寸二分,螭獸鈕,文各如其號。 璽不行用,有令,則太后以宮名衛尉印,皇后則以長秋印。
Empress seal sash girdle ornaments same as imperial carriage, false topknot, step-sway, twelve studs, eight finches nine splendors. Assisting sacrifice court assembly with hui robe, suburban altar prayer with yu-di, minor banquet with que-di, personal silkworm with ju robe, ritual audience with emperor with zhan robe, leisure with tuan robe. Six robes all had apron and woven wrapped belt. Empress Dowager and Empress seals all white jade made, square one cun two fen, dragon-beast knob, text each according to title. Seals not used for travel; if order then Empress Dowager used palace name Guard Commandant seal, Empress then Director of Palace Domestic Service seal.
175
內外命婦從五品已上,蔽髻,唯以鈿數花釵多少為品秩。 二品已上金玉飾,三品已下金飾。 內命婦、左右昭儀、三夫人視一品,假髻,九鈿,金章,紫綬,服褕翟,雙佩山玄玉。 九嬪視三品,五鈿蔽髻,銀章,青綬,服鞠衣,佩水蒼玉。 世婦視四品,三鈿,銀印,青綬,服展衣,無佩。 八十一御女視五品,一鈿,銅印,墨綬,服褖衣。 又有宮人女官服制,第二品七鈿蔽髻,服闕翟; 三品五鈿,鞠衣; 四品三鈿,展衣; 五品一鈿,褖衣; 六品褖衣; 七品青紗公服。 俱大首髻。 八品、九品,俱青紗公服,偏髾髻。
Inner and outer titled ladies from fifth rank up, covered topknot—only stud count and flower hairpin amount marked rank. Second rank and above gold jade ornament; third rank and below gold ornament. Inner titled ladies Left Right Bright Conduct Three Ladies treated as first rank: false topknot nine studs, gold insignia purple sash, yu-di robe, double mountain dark jade. Nine Concubines treated as third rank, five stud covered topknot, silver insignia blue sash, ju robe, water-dark jade. Palace ladies treated as fourth rank, three studs, silver seal blue sash, zhan robe, no girdle ornament. Eighty-one palace women treated as fifth rank, one stud, bronze seal black sash, tuan robe. Also palace women female official dress system: second rank seven stud covered topknot, que-di robe; Third rank five studs, ju robe; Fourth rank three studs, zhan robe; Fifth rank one stud, tuan robe; Sixth rank tuan robe; Seventh rank blue gauze public dress. All great topknot. Eighth and ninth rank all blue gauze public dress, side topknot.
176
皇太子妃璽、綬、佩同皇太子,假髻,步搖,九鈿,服褕翟。 從蠶則青紗公服。
Crown Princess Consort seal sash girdle ornaments same as Crown Prince, false topknot step-sway nine studs, yu-di robe. Following silkworm then blue gauze public dress.
177
皇太子妃璽,以黃金,方一寸,龜鈕,文曰「皇太子妃之璽」。 若有封書,則用內坊印。
Crown Princess Consort seal, gold, square one cun, turtle knob, text reads "Crown Princess Consort's Seal." If sealing letter then used inner bureau seal.
178
郡長公主、公主、王國太妃、妃,纁朱綬,髻章服佩同內命婦一品。 郡長君七鈿蔽髻,玄朱綬,闕翟,章佩與公主同。 郡君、縣主,佩水蒼玉,餘與郡長君同。 太子良娣視九嬪服。 縣主青朱綬,餘與良娣同。 女侍中五鈿,假金印、紫綬,服鞠衣,佩水蒼玉。 縣君銀章,青朱綬,餘與女侍中同。 太子孺人同世婦。 太子家人子同御女。 鄉主、鄉君,素朱綬,佩水蒼玉,餘與御女同。 外命婦章印綬佩,皆如其夫。 若夫假章印綬佩,妻則不假。 一品、二品,七鈿蔽髻,服闕翟。 三品五鈿,服鞠衣。 四品三鈿,服展衣。 五品一鈿,服褖衣。 內外命婦、宮人女官從蠶,則各依品次,還著蔽髻,皆服青紗公服。 如外命婦,綬帶鞶囊,皆准其夫公服之例。 百官之母詔加太夫人者,朝服公服,各與其命婦服同。
Commandery Grand Princess, Princess, Kingdom Grand Consort, Consort: light vermilion sash, topknot insignia dress girdle ornaments same as inner titled lady first rank. Commandery Grand Lady seven stud covered topknot, dark vermilion sash, que-di, insignia girdle ornaments same as princess. Commandery Lady, District Lady wearing water-dark jade, rest same as Commandery Grand Lady. Crown Prince Good Companion treated as Nine Concubines dress. District Lady blue vermilion sash, rest same as Good Companion. Female Attendant-in-Ordinary five studs, false gold seal purple sash, ju robe, water-dark jade. District Lady silver insignia blue vermilion sash, rest same as Female Attendant-in-Ordinary. Crown Prince Lady of the Nursery same as palace lady. Crown Prince Household Attendant same as palace woman. Township Lady, Township Enfeoffed Lady plain vermilion sash, water-dark jade, rest same as palace woman. Outer titled ladies insignia seal sash girdle ornaments all according to husband. If husband temporarily insignia seal sash girdle ornaments, wife then not temporary. First and second rank, seven stud covered topknot, que-di robe. Third rank five studs, ju robe. Fourth rank three studs, zhan robe. Fifth rank one stud, tuan robe. Inner and outer titled ladies palace women female officials following silkworm then each according to rank, returning wearing covered topknot, all blue gauze public dress. Like outer titled ladies, sash belt purse all according to husband public dress precedent. All officials' mothers edict-added Grand Lady court dress and public dress each same as their titled lady dress.
179
後周設司服之官,掌皇帝十二服。 祀昊天上帝,則蒼衣蒼冕; 祀東方上帝及朝日,則青衣青冕; 祀南方上帝,則朱衣朱冕; 祭皇地祇、祀中央上帝,則黃衣黃冕; 祀西方上帝及夕月,則素衣素冕; 祀北方上帝,祭神州、社稷,則玄衣玄冕; 享先皇、加元服、納後、朝諸侯,則象衣象冕。 十有二章,日月星辰山龍華蟲六章在衣,火宗彝藻粉米黼黻六章在裳,凡十二等。 享諸先帝、大貞於龜、食三老五更、享諸侯、耕籍,則服袞冕,自龍已下,凡九章十二等。 宗彝已下五章在衣,藻、火已下四章在裳,衣重宗彝。 祀星辰、祭四望、視朔、大射、饗群臣、巡犧牲、養國老,則服山冕,八章十二等。 衣裳各四章,衣重火與宗彝。 群祀、視朝、臨太學、入道法門、宴諸侯與群臣及燕射、養庶老、適諸侯家,則服鷩冕,七章十二等。 衣三章,裳四章,衣重三章。 袞、山、鷩三冕,皆裳重黼黻,俱十有二等。 通以升龍為領褾。 冕通十有二旒。 巡兵即戎,則服韋弁,謂以韎韋為弁,又以為裳衣也。 田獵行鄉畿,則服皮弁,謂以鹿子皮為弁,白布衣而素裳也。 皇帝凶服斬衰。 父母之喪上下達其吊服,錫衰以哭三公,緦衰以哭諸侯,皆十五升抽其半。 錫者,浣其布,不浣其縷,哀在內,緦者皆素弁,如爵弁之數環絰。 一服纏絰。 凡大疫、大荒、大災則素服縞冠。 凡疫病、荒饑、年災水旱也。
Northern Zhou established Director of Robes office, managing the emperor's twelve robes. Sacrificing Supreme God of Heaven then dark robe and dark crown; Sacrificing Eastern God and morning sun then green robe and green crown; Sacrificing Southern God then vermilion robe and vermilion crown; Sacrificing Imperial Earth and Central God then yellow robe and yellow crown; Sacrificing Western God and evening moon then white robe and white crown; Sacrificing Northern God, Spirit Land and altars of soil and grain then black robe and black crown; Feasting former emperors, capping ceremony, receiving empress, audience of feudal lords then elephant robe and elephant crown. Twelve emblems: sun moon stars mountain dragon embroidered insect six emblems on robe, fire ancestral vessel waterweed grain fu fe six emblems on skirt—in all twelve grades. Feasting former emperors, great divination with tortoise, feasting three elders five worthies, feasting feudal lords, plowing sacred field then dragon robe and crown—from dragon down in all nine emblems twelve grades. Ancestral vessel down five emblems on robe, waterweed fire down four emblems on skirt, robe heavier ancestral vessel. Sacrificing stars, four mountain spirits, first of month, great archery, feasting ministers, inspecting sacrificial animals, nurturing state elders then mountain crown, eight emblems twelve grades. Robe and skirt each four emblems, robe heavier fire and ancestral vessel. Group sacrifices, court audience, visiting Imperial Academy, entering Gate of the Way and Law, banqueting feudal lords and ministers and banquet archery, nurturing common elders, visiting feudal lords' households then pheasant crown, seven emblems twelve grades. Robe three emblems, skirt four emblems, robe heavier three emblems. Dragon, mountain, pheasant three crowns all skirt heavier fu fe, all twelve grades. Universally ascending dragon as collar border. Crown universally twelve tassels. Patrolling troops taking the field then wore leather cap—meaning using red leather as cap and also as skirt robe. Hunting traveling suburban districts then wore skin cap—meaning using fawn skin as cap, white cloth robe and plain skirt. Emperor mourning dress: cut mourning. Parents' mourning upper and lower reaching; mourning dress: tin mourning to weep for Three Dukes, hemp mourning to weep for feudal lords—all fifteen sheng taking half. Tin ones washed cloth not washed threads sorrow inside; hemp ones all plain cap like cap count ring headband. One garment wound headband. All great pestilence, great famine, great disaster then plain dress and white cap. All pestilence, famine, annual disaster, flood, and drought.
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諸公之服九:一曰方冕。 二曰袞冕,九章,宗彝已上五章在衣,藻已下四章在裳。 三曰山冕,八章,衣裳各四章,衣重宗彝,為九等。 四曰鷩冕,七章,衣三章,裳四章,衣重火與宗彝。 五曰火冕,六章,衣裳各三章,衣重宗彝及藻,裳重黻。 六曰毳冕,五章,衣三章,裳二章,衣重藻粉米,裳重黼黻。 山冕已下俱九等,皆以山為領褾,冕俱九旒。 七曰韋弁。 八曰皮弁。 九曰玄冠。
Feudal lords' robes nine: first square crown. Second dragon robe and crown, nine emblems, ancestral vessel up five emblems on robe, waterweed down four emblems on skirt. Third mountain crown, eight emblems, robe and skirt each four emblems, robe heavier ancestral vessel, nine grades. Fourth pheasant crown, seven emblems, robe three emblems skirt four emblems, robe heavier fire and ancestral vessel. Fifth fire crown, six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems, robe heavier ancestral vessel and waterweed, skirt heavier fe. Sixth feather crown, five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, robe heavier waterweed grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Mountain crown down all nine grades, all mountain as collar border, crown all nine tassels. Seventh leather cap. Eighth skin cap. Ninth dark cap.
181
諸侯服,自方冕而下八,無袞冕。 山冕八章,衣裳各四章。 鷩冕七章,衣三章,裳四章,衣重宗彝。 火冕六章,衣裳各三章,衣重藻,裳重黻。 毳冕五章,衣三章,裳二章,衣重粉米,裳重黼黻。 鷩冕已下俱八等,皆以華蟲為領褾。 冕俱八旒。
Feudal lords' robes from square crown down eight, no dragon robe and crown. Mountain crown eight emblems, robe and skirt each four emblems. Pheasant crown seven emblems, robe three emblems skirt four emblems, robe heavier ancestral vessel. Fire crown six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems, robe heavier waterweed, skirt heavier fe. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Pheasant crown down all eight grades, all embroidered insect as collar border. Crown all eight tassels.
182
諸伯服,自方冕而下七,又無山冕。 鷩冕七章,衣三章,裳四章。 火冕六章,衣裳各三章,裳重黻。 毳冕五章,衣三章,裳二章,裳重黼黻。 火冕已下俱七等,皆以火為領褾。 冕俱七旒。
Earls' robes from square crown down seven, again no mountain crown. Pheasant crown seven emblems, robe three emblems skirt four emblems. Fire crown six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems, skirt heavier fe. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, skirt heavier fu fe. Fire crown down all seven grades, all fire as collar border. Crown all seven tassels.
183
諸子服,自方冕而下六,又無鷩冕。 火冕六章,衣裳各三章。 毳冕五章,衣三章,裳二章,裳重黻。 毳冕已下俱六等,皆以宗彝為領褾。 冕俱六旒。
Viscounts' robes from square crown down six, again no pheasant crown. Fire crown six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, skirt heavier fe. Feather crown down all six grades, all ancestral vessel as collar border. Crown all six tassels.
184
諸男服,自方冕而下五,又無火冕。 毳冕五章,衣三章,裳二章。 以藻為領褾。 冕五旒。
Barons' robes from square crown down five, again no fire crown. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems. Waterweed as collar border. Crown five tassels.
185
三公之服九:一曰祀冕。 二曰火冕,六章,衣裳各三章,衣重宗彝與藻,裳重黻。 三曰毳冕,五章,衣三章,裳二章,衣重藻與粉米,裳重黼黻。 四曰藻冕,四章,衣裳俱二章,衣重藻與粉米,裳重黼黻。 五曰繡冕,三章,衣一章,裳二章,衣重粉米,裳重黼黻。 俱九等,皆以宗彝為領褾。 六曰爵弁。 七曰韋弁。 八曰皮弁。 九曰玄冠。
Three Dukes' robes nine: first sacrifice crown. Second fire crown, six emblems, robe and skirt each three emblems, robe heavier ancestral vessel and waterweed, skirt heavier fe. Third feather crown, five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, robe heavier waterweed grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Fourth waterweed crown, four emblems, robe and skirt both two emblems, robe heavier waterweed grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Fifth embroidery crown, three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe. All nine grades, all ancestral vessel as collar border. Sixth cap. Seventh leather cap. Eighth skin cap. Ninth dark cap.
186
三孤之服,自祀冕而下八,無火冕。 毳冕五章,衣三章,裳二章,衣重粉米,裳重黼黻。 藻冕四章,衣裳各二章,衣重藻與粉米,裳重黼黻,俱八等,皆以藻為領褾。 繡冕三章,衣一章,裳二章,衣重粉米,裳重黼黻,為八等。
Three Solitaries' robes from sacrifice crown down eight, no fire crown. Feather crown five emblems, robe three emblems skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe. Waterweed crown four emblems, robe and skirt each two emblems, robe heavier waterweed grain, skirt heavier fu fe, all eight grades, all waterweed as collar border. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe, eight grades.
187
公卿之服,自祀冕而下七,又無毳冕。 藻冕四章,衣裳各二章,衣重粉米,裳重黼黻,為七等,皆以粉米為領褾,各七。 繡冕三章,衣一章,裳二章,衣重粉米,裳重黼黻,為七等。
Dukes and ministers' robes from sacrifice crown down seven, again no feather crown. Waterweed crown four emblems, robe and skirt each two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe, seven grades, all grain as collar border, each seven. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu fe, seven grades.
188
上大夫之服,自祀冕而下六,又無藻冕。 繡冕三章,衣一章,裳二章,衣重粉米,裳重黼,為六等。
Upper Grand Masters' robes from sacrifice crown down six, again no waterweed crown. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, skirt heavier fu, six grades.
189
中大夫之服,自祀冕而下五,又無皮弁。 繡冕三章,衣一章,裳二章,衣重粉米,為五等。
Middle Grand Masters' robes from sacrifice crown down five, again no skin cap. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, five grades.
190
下大夫之服,自祀冕而下四,又無爵弁。 繡冕三章,衣一章,裳二章,衣重粉米,為四等。
Lower Grand Masters' robes from sacrifice crown down four, again no cap. Embroidery crown three emblems, robe one emblem skirt two emblems, robe heavier grain, four grades.
191
士之服三:一曰祀弁,二曰爵弁,三曰玄冠。 玄冠皆玄衣。 其裳,上士以玄,中士以黃,下士雜裳,謂前玄後黃也。 庶士之服一:玄冠。 庶士,庶人在官,府史之屬。 其服緇衣裳。
Scholars' robes three: first sacrifice cap, second cap, third dark cap. Dark cap all dark robes. Skirt: upper scholar dark, middle scholar yellow, lower scholar mixed skirt—meaning dark front yellow back. Common scholars' robes one: dark cap. Common scholars, commoners in office, clerks of bureaus. Their robes dark cloth garments.
192
後令文武俱著常服,冠形如魏帢,無簪有纓。 其凶服皆與庶人同。 其吊服,諸侯于其卿大夫,錫衰; 同姓,緦衰; 於士,疑衰。 其當事則弁絰,否則皮弁。 公孤卿大夫之吊服,錫衰弁絰,皮弁亦如之。 士之吊服,疑衰素裳,當事弁絰,否則徒弁。
Later ordered civil and military all wore regular dress, cap form like Wei headcloth, no hairpin with chin strap. Mourning dress all same as commoners. Mourning dress: feudal lords for their ministers and grand masters tin mourning; Same surname hemp mourning; For scholars si mourning. When on duty then cap headband; otherwise skin cap. Dukes Solitaries ministers grand masters mourning dress tin mourning cap headband, skin cap likewise. Scholars mourning dress si mourning plain skirt, on duty cap headband, otherwise plain cap.
193
皇后衣十二等。 其翟衣六,從皇帝祀郊禖,享先皇,朝皇太后,則服翬衣。 素質,五色。 祭陰社,朝命婦,則服騑衣。 青質,五色。 祭群小祀,受獻繭,則服鷩衣。 赤色採桑則服鳪衣。 黃色從皇帝見賓客,聽女教,則服鵫衣。 白色食命婦,歸寧,則服𦐝衣。 玄色俱十有二等,以翬雉為領褾,各有二。 臨婦學及法道門,燕命婦,有時見命婦,則蒼衣。 春齋及祭還,則青衣。 夏齋及祭還,則朱衣。 採桑齋及採桑還,則黃衣。 秋齋及祭還,則素衣。 冬齋及祭還,則玄衣。 自青衣而下,其領褾以相生之色。
Empress robes twelve grades. Di robes six: following emperor sacrificing suburban altar prayer, feasting former emperors, audience of Empress Dowager then hui robe. Plain substance five colors. Sacrificing yin altar, audience of titled ladies then fei robe. Green substance five colors. Sacrificing minor group sacrifices, receiving offered cocoon then pheasant robe. Red color picking mulberry then bo robe. Yellow color following emperor seeing guests, listening to women's instruction then zhi robe. White color feasting titled ladies, returning home then yi robe. Dark color all twelve grades, hui pheasant as collar border, each two. Visiting women's academy and Gate of the Way and Law, banqueting titled ladies, sometimes seeing titled ladies then dark robe. Spring fasting and sacrifice return then green robe. Summer fasting and sacrifice return then vermilion robe. Mulberry-picking fasting and mulberry-picking return then yellow robe. Autumn fasting and sacrifice return then white robe. Winter fasting and sacrifice return then dark robe. From green robe down collar border used mutually generating colors.
194
諸公夫人九服,其翟衣雉皆九等,俱以騑雉為領褾,各九。 自騑衣已下五,曰騑衣、鷩衣、鳪衣、鵫衣、𦐝衣,並朱衣、黃衣、素衣、玄衣而九。 自朱衣而下,其領褾亦同用相生之色。
Feudal lords' ladies nine robes, di robes pheasants all nine grades, all fei pheasant as collar border, each nine. From fei robe down five: fei robe, pheasant robe, bo robe, zhi robe, yi robe, and vermilion yellow white dark robes making nine. From vermilion robe down collar border likewise used mutually generating colors.
195
諸侯夫人,自鷩而下八。 其翟衣雉皆八等,俱以鷩雉為領褾。 無騑衣。
Feudal lords' ladies from pheasant down eight. Di robes pheasants all eight grades, all pheasant pheasant as collar border. No fei robe.
196
諸伯夫人,自鳪而下七。 其翟衣雉皆七等,俱以鳪雉為領襟,又無鵫衣。
Earls' ladies from bo down seven. Di robes pheants all seven grades, all bo pheasant as collar border, again no zhi robe.
197
諸子夫人,自鵫而下六。 其翟衣俱以鵫雉為領褾。 又無鳪衣。
Viscounts' ladies from zhi down six. Di robes all zhi pheasant as collar border. Again no bo robe.
198
諸男夫人,自𦐝而下五。 其翟衣雉皆五等,俱以𦐝雉為領褾。 又無鳪衣。
Barons' ladies from yi down five. Di robes pheasants all five grades, all yi pheasant as collar border. Again no bo robe.
199
三妃,三公夫人之服九:一曰鳪衣,二曰鵫衣、三曰𦐝衣,四曰青衣,五曰朱衣,六曰黃衣,七曰素衣,八曰玄衣,九曰鷩衣。 似發華皆九樹。 其雉衣亦皆九等,以褾雉為領褾,各九。
Three Consorts, Three Dukes' ladies' robes nine: first bo robe, second zhi robe, third yi robe, fourth green robe, fifth vermilion robe, sixth yellow robe, seventh white robe, eighth dark robe, ninth pheasant robe. Splendor all nine trees. Pheasant robes also all nine grades, border pheasant as collar border, each nine.
200
三㚤,三孤之內子,自鵫衣而下八。 雉衣皆八等,以鵫雉為領褾,各八。
Three Consorts, Three Solitaries' inner ladies from zhi robe down eight. Pheasant robes all eight grades, zhi pheasant as collar border, each eight.
201
六嬪,六卿之內子,自𦐝衣而下七。 雉衣皆七等,以𦐝雉為領褾,各七。
Six Concubines, Six Ministers' inner ladies from yi robe down seven. Pheasant robes all seven grades, yi pheasant as collar border, each seven.
202
上媛,上大夫之孺人,自青衣而下六。
Upper Lady, upper grand master's lady from green robe down six.
203
中媛,中大夫之孺人,自朱衣而下五。
Middle Lady, middle grand master's lady from vermilion robe down five.
204
下媛,下大夫之孺人,自黃衣而下四。
Lower Lady, lower grand master's lady from yellow robe down four.
205
御婉士之婦人,自素衣而下三。
Palace Attendant Lady, scholar's lady from white robe down three.
206
中宮六尚,緅衣。 其色赤而微玄
Central Palace Six Directors, dark red robe. Its color red slightly dark.
207
諸命秩之服,曰公服,其餘常服,曰私衣。 皇后華皆有十二樹。 諸侯之夫人,亦皆以命數為之節。 三妃,三公夫人已下,又各依其命。 一命再命者,又俱以三為節。
Titled rank robes called public dress; rest regular dress called private dress. Empress splendor all twelve trees. Feudal lords' ladies also all according to mandate number as regulation. Three Consorts, Three Dukes' ladies and below also each according to mandate. One mandate and two mandate again all three as regulation.
208
皇后及諸侯夫人之服,皆舄履。 三妃,三公夫人已下,翟衣則舄,其餘皆屨。 舄、履各如其裳之色。
Empress and feudal lords' ladies' robes all shoes. Three Consorts, Three Dukes' ladies and below di robes then shoes, rest all slippers. Shoes and slippers each according to skirt color.
209
皇后之凶服,斬衰、齊衰,降旁期已下吊服。 為妃、嬪、三公之夫人、孤卿內子之喪,錫衰。 錫者,十五升去其半。 無事其縷,有事其布,哀在內也。 為諸侯夫人之喪,緦衰。 緦亦十五升去其半。 有事其縷,無事其布,哀在外也。 為媛、禦婉及大夫孺人、士之婦人之喪,疑衰。 十四升,疑于吉。 皆吉笄,無首。 象笄,去首飾。 太陰虧則素服。 蕩天下之陰事諸侯之夫人及三妃與三公之夫人已下凶事,則五衰:自緦已上皆服之其吊,諸侯夫人于卿之內子、大夫孺人,錫衰。 於己之同姓之臣,緦衰。 於士之婦人,疑衰。 皆吉笄,無首。 其三妃已下及媛,三公夫人已下及孺人,其吊服錫衰。 禦婉及士之婦人,吊服疑衰,疑衰同笄。 九族已下皆骨笄
Empress mourning dress: cut mourning, equal mourning, descending collateral period down mourning dress. For Consorts, Concubines, Three Dukes' ladies, Solitaries' inner ladies' mourning tin mourning. Tin ones fifteen sheng taking half. Not treating threads, treating cloth, sorrow inside. For feudal lords' ladies' mourning hemp mourning. Hemp also fifteen sheng taking half. Treating threads not treating cloth, sorrow outside. For Lady, Palace Attendant Lady and grand masters' ladies, scholars' ladies' mourning si mourning. Fourteen sheng, si between auspicious. All auspicious hairpin, no head ornament. Elephant hairpin, removed head ornament. Great yin waning then plain dress. Dissolving world's yin affairs: feudal lords' ladies and Three Consorts and Three Dukes' ladies and below mourning then five mourning—from hemp up all wore; mourning feudal lords' ladies for ministers' inner ladies and grand masters' ladies tin mourning. For own same surname ministers hemp mourning. For scholars' ladies si mourning. All auspicious hairpin, no head ornament. Three Consorts and below and Ladies, Three Dukes' ladies and below and ladies their mourning dress tin mourning. Palace Attendant Lady and scholars' ladies mourning dress si mourning, si mourning same hairpin. Nine clans and below all bone hairpin.
210
韠,皇帝三章,龍、火、山; 諸侯二章,去龍; 卿大夫一章,以山。 皆織彩以成之。
Knee cover: emperor three emblems dragon fire mountain; Feudal lords two emblems removing dragon; Ministers and grand masters one emblem using mountain. All woven colors to complete.
211
皇帝八璽,有神璽,有傳國璽,皆寶而不用。 神璽明受之於天,傳國璽明受之於運。 皇帝負扆,則置神璽於筵前之右,置傳國璽於筵前之左。 又有六璽。 其一「皇帝行璽」,封命諸侯及三公用之。 其二「皇帝之璽」,與諸侯及三公書用之。 其三「皇帝信璽」,發諸夏之兵用之。 其四「天子行璽」,封命蕃國之君用之。 其五「天子之璽」,與蕃國之君書用之。 其六「天子信璽」,征蕃國之兵用之。 六璽皆白玉為之,方一寸五分,高寸,螭獸鈕。
Emperor eight seals, has Spirit Seal, has Heirloom Seal, all treasured not used. Spirit Seal shows receiving from Heaven; Heirloom Seal shows receiving from Fortune. Emperor leaning on screen then placed Spirit Seal before mat right, Heirloom Seal before mat left. Also six seals. First "Emperor Traveling Seal"—for sealing orders to feudal lords and Three Dukes. Second "Emperor's Seal"—for letters with feudal lords and Three Dukes. Third "Emperor Trust Seal"—for dispatching troops from all Xia. Fourth "Son of Heaven Traveling Seal"—for sealing orders to frontier kingdom lords. Fifth "Son of Heaven's Seal"—for letters with frontier kingdom lords. Sixth "Son of Heaven Trust Seal"—for campaigning frontier kingdom troops. Six seals all white jade made, square one cun five fen, one cun high, dragon-beast knob.
212
皇后璽,文曰「皇后之璽」,白玉為之,方寸五分,高寸,麟鈕。
Empress seal text reads "Empress's Seal," white jade made, square one cun five fen, one cun high, qilin knob.
213
三公諸侯皆金印,方寸二分,高八分,龜鈕。 七命已上銀,四命已上銅,皆龜鈕。 三命已上,銅印銅鼻。 其方皆寸,其高六分,文曰「某公官之印」。
Three Dukes and feudal lords all gold seal, square one cun two fen, eight fen high, turtle knob. Seventh mandate and above silver, fourth mandate and above bronze, all turtle knobs. Third mandate and above, bronze seal bronze nose. All square one cun, six fen high, text reads "Such-and-such Duke Office Seal."
214
皇帝之組綬以蒼,以青,以朱,以黃,以白,以玄,以纁,以紅,以紫,以緅,以碧,以綠,十有二色。 諸公九色,自黃以下。 諸侯八色,自白以下。 諸伯七色,自玄以下。 諸子六色,自纁已下。 諸男五色,自紅已下。 三公之綬,如諸公。 三孤之綬,如諸侯。 六卿之綬,如諸伯。 上大夫之綬,如諸子。 中大夫之綬,如諸男。 下大夫綬,自紫已下。 士之綬,自緅已下。 其璽印之綬,亦如之。
Emperor's cord sash using dark, green, vermilion, yellow, white, black, light vermilion, red, purple, dark purple, jade green, and green—twelve colors. Feudal lords nine colors, from yellow down. Earls eight colors, from white down. Viscounts seven colors, from black down. Barons six colors, from light vermilion down. Barons five colors, from red down. Three Dukes' sash like feudal lords. Three Solitaries' sash like earls. Six Ministers' sash like viscounts. Upper Grand Masters' sash like barons. Middle Grand Masters' sash like barons. Lower Grand Masters' sash from purple down. Scholars' sash from dark purple down. Seal insignia sash likewise.
215
保定四年,百官始執笏,常服上焉。 宇文護始命袍加下襴。
Baoding 4, all officials began holding tablet, regular dress above. Yuwen Hu first ordered robe adding lower skirt.