1
高祖初即位，將改周制，乃下詔曰：「宣尼制法，云行夏之時，乘殷之輅。 弈葉共遵，理無可革。 然三代所尚，眾論多端，或以為所建之時，或以為所感之瑞，或當其行色，因以從之。 今雖夏數得天，歷代通用，漢尚於赤，魏尚於黃，驪馬玄牲，已弗相踵，明不可改，建寅歲首，常服於黑。 朕初受天命，赤雀來儀，兼姬周已還，於茲六代。 三正廻復，五德相生，總以言之，並宜火色。 垂衣已降，損益可知，尚色雖殊，常兼前代。 其郊丘廟社，可依袞冕之儀，朝會衣裳，宜盡用赤。 昔丹烏木運，姬有大白之旂，黃星土德，曹乘黑首之馬，在祀與戎，其尚恒異。 今之戎服，皆可尚黃，在外常所著者，通用雜色。 祭祀之服，須合禮經，宜集通儒，更可詳議。」 太子庶子、攝太常少卿裴政奏曰：「竊見後周制冕，加為十二，既與前禮數乃不同，而色應五行，又非典故。 謹案三代之冠，其名各別。 六等之冕，承用區分，璪玉五采，隨班異飾，都無迎氣變色之文。 唯月令者，起于秦代，乃有青旂赤玉，白駱黑衣，與四時而色變，全不言於弁冕。 五時冕色，禮既無文，稽於正典，難以經證。 且後魏已來，制度咸闕。 天興之歲，草創繕修，所造車服，多參胡制。 故魏收論之，稱為違古，是也。 周氏因襲，將為故事，大象承統，咸取用之，輿輦衣冠，甚多迂怪。 今皇隋革命，憲章前代，其魏、周輦輅不合制者，已勑有司盡令除廢，然衣冠禮器，尚且兼行。 乃有立夏袞衣，以赤為質，迎秋平冕，用白成形，既越典章，須革其謬。 謹案續漢書禮儀志云『立春之日，京都皆著青衣』，秋夏悉如其色。 逮于魏、晉，迎氣五郊，行禮之人，皆同此制。 考尋故事，唯幘從衣色。 今請冠及冕，色並用玄，唯應著幘者，任依漢、晉。」 制曰：「可。」
When Emperor Gaozu first took the throne, intending to reform Northern Zhou institutions, he issued an edict: "Confucius established the law, saying, 'Follow the Xia calendar; ride in the Yin carriage. Generation after generation all followed this; in principle nothing could be changed. Yet what the Three Dynasties honored gave rise to many divergent views—some held it was the season of their dynastic founding, some the auspicious omen they responded to, or it matched the color of their prevailing element, and thus they followed it. Though the Xia calendar reckoned heaven correctly and has been used universally through the dynasties, Han honored red and Wei honored yellow; bay horses and dark sacrificial victims no longer followed in succession—clearly they could not be changed. With yin established as the year-start, ordinary dress honored black. When I first received Heaven's mandate, the red bird came as an auspicious omen; counting from the house of Ji-Zhou to the present, there have now been six dynasties. The three calendars circulate and return, and the Five Virtues generate one another—taking all together, all should favor the color of fire. From the era of 'draping robes' down to the present, additions and subtractions can be known; though the honored color differs, it commonly incorporates the previous dynasty. For suburban altars, ancestral temples, and earth-god shrines, one may follow the guanmian ritual; for court assemblies and ceremonial dress, red should be used throughout. In antiquity the red bird governed the Wood cycle, and the house of Ji had great white banners; the yellow star marked the Earth Virtue, and Cao Wei rode horses with black heads—in sacrifice and warfare, what they honored always differed. Present military dress may all honor yellow; what is ordinarily worn outside may generally use mixed colors. Sacrificial dress must accord with the ritual classics; learned Confucians should be assembled for further detailed discussion." The Supervisor of the Heir Apparent's Household and Acting Director of the Directorate of Ceremonials Pei Zheng memorialized: "I observe that Later Zhou regulated the mián to twelve types, which already differs from earlier ritual in number, and having colors respond to the Five Phases is not according to ancient precedent. I respectfully note that the caps of the Three Dynasties each had distinct names. The six grades of mián continued in use with distinctions; jade pendants in five colors and ornaments differing by rank—nowhere is there text about changing colors to receive the seasonal qi. Only the Monthly Ordinances, starting from the Qin era, have green banners, red jade, white horses, and black robes, changing color with the four seasons—it says nothing at all about the biàn and mián. Five-season mián colors have no textual basis in the Rites; searching the orthodox canon, they are hard to verify by the classics. Moreover, since Later Wei, regulations have all been deficient. In the year of Heavenly Inception, during initial creation and repair, the carriages and robes made mostly followed barbarian models. Thus Wei Shou in his discussion called this a violation of antiquity—and he was right. Northern Zhou inherited it, treating it as precedent; the Great Elephant period accepted the succession and all adopted it—the carriages, palanquins, caps, and robes were largely perverse and strange. Now the Sui dynasty has changed the mandate, taking its constitution and regulations from earlier dynasties; those Wei and Zhou palanquins and carriages that did not accord with regulations have already been ordered removed by the relevant offices, yet caps, robes, and ritual implements still continue in parallel use. There are summer solstice guan robes with red as the substance and autumn equinox ping mián formed in white—since they exceed the canonical regulations, these errors must be corrected. I respectfully examine the Rites and Ceremonies Monograph of the Continuation of the Book of Han, which says, 'On the day of spring's commencement, the capital all wore green robes,' with autumn and summer all following their respective colors. Reaching Wei and Jin, at the five suburban altars for receiving the seasonal qi, those performing the rites all followed this regulation. Examining past precedents, only the zé headcloth followed the robe color. Now I request that caps and mián all use black; only where the zé should be worn, let it follow Han and Jin practice." The rescript said: "Approved."
2
於是定令，採用東齊之法。 乘輿袞冕，垂白珠十有二旒，以組為纓，色如其綬，黈纊充耳，玉筓。 玄衣，纁裳。 衣，山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彝五章； 裳，藻、粉、米。 黼、黻四章。 衣重宗彝，裳重黼黻，為十二等。 衣褾、領織成升龍，白紗內單，黼領，青褾、襈、裾。 革帶，玉鈎䚢，大帶，素帶朱裏，紕其外，上以朱，下以綠。 韍隨裳色，龍、火、山三章。 鹿盧玉具劍，火珠鏢首。 白玉雙佩，玄組。 雙大綬，六采，玄黃赤白縹綠，純玄質，長二丈四尺，五百首，廣一尺； 小雙綬，長二尺六寸，色同大綬，而首半之，間施三玉環。 朱韈，赤舄，舄加金飾。 祀圓丘、方澤、感帝、明堂、五郊、雩、蜡、封禪、朝日、夕月、宗廟、社稷、籍田、廟遣上將、征還飲至、元服、納后、正月受朝及臨軒拜王公，則服之。 通天冠，加金博山，附蟬，十二首，施珠翠，黑介幘，玉簪導。 絳紗袍，深衣制，白紗內單，皁領、褾、襈、裾，絳紗蔽膝，白假帶，方心曲領。 其革帶、劍、佩、綬、舄，與上同。 若未加元服，則雙童髻，空頂黑介幘，雙玉導，加寶飾。 朔日受朝、元會及冬會、諸祭還，則服之。 武弁，金附蟬，平巾幘，餘服具服。 講武、出征、四時蒐狩、大射、禡、類、宜社、賞祖、罰社、纂嚴，則服之。 黑介幘，白紗單衣，烏皮履，拜陵則服之。 白紗帽，白練裙襦，烏皮履，視朝、聽訟及宴見賓客，皆服之。 白帢，白紗單衣，烏皮履，舉哀則服之。
Thereupon regulations were fixed, adopting the methods of Eastern Qi. The imperial guan mián hung twelve white bead tassels; silk cords served as the chin strap, their color matching the sash; yellow and blue ear-plugs filled the ears; jade hairpin. Black upper garment, vermilion lower skirt. On the upper garment: mountain, dragon, embroidered insect, fire, and ancestral vessels—five emblems; On the skirt: waterweed, grain, and rice. Fu and fe—four emblems. The upper garment emphasized ancestral vessels, the skirt emphasized fu and fe—in all, twelve grades. Collar and cuffs were woven with ascending dragons; white gauze inner garment; fu-pattern collar; green cuffs, border, and hem. Leather belt with jade hook plaque; great sash of plain silk with vermilion lining, its edges bordered, vermilion above and green below. The knee cover matched the skirt color, with dragon, fire, and mountain—three emblems. Deer-path jade-mounted sword with fire-pearl pommel. Paired white jade pendants on black cords. Paired great sashes in six colors—black, yellow, red, white, light blue, and green—of pure black substance, two zhang four chi in length, five hundred tassels, one chi wide; Paired small sashes two chi six cun in length, the same colors as the great sash but half the tassels, with three jade rings set between. Vermilion socks, red ceremonial shoes with gold ornament. This was worn when sacrificing at the Round Mound, Square Pond, Lord of the Five Emperors, Bright Hall, five suburban altars, rain prayer, la sacrifice, feng and shan rites, morning and evening moon rites, ancestral temple, altars of soil and grain, plowing the sacred field, dispatching a great general from the temple, the victory banquet on return from campaign, the capping ceremony, empress's investiture, New Year's audience, and audience at the imperial throne to invest princes and dukes. Tongtian cap with gold Boshan ornament, attached cicada, twelve tassels, pearl and kingfisher feather ornament, black jie headcloth, jade hairpin guide. Crimson gauze robe in deep-garment style, white gauze inner garment, black collar, cuffs, border, and hem, crimson gauze knee cover, white imitation sash, square heart and curved collar. The leather belt, sword, pendants, sash, and shoes were the same as above. If the capping ceremony had not yet been performed, double child topknots, open-topped black jie headcloth, paired jade guides with precious ornament. This was worn for the first-day-of-month audience, New Year's assembly, winter assembly, and on return from all sacrifices. Military cap with gold attached cicada, flat zé headcloth, remaining garments as full dress. This was worn for martial exercises, campaigns, four-season hunts, great archery, ma and lei rites, earth-god rites, rewarding at the ancestral temple, punishing at the earth altar, and assembling the guard. Black jie headcloth, white gauze single garment, black leather shoes—worn when paying respects at the imperial tombs. White gauze cap, white silk skirt and jacket, black leather shoes—worn for holding court, hearing lawsuits, and banquets with guests. White kerchief, white gauze single garment, black leather shoes—worn when expressing mourning.
3
神璽，寶而不用。 受命璽，封禪則用之。 「皇帝行璽」，封命諸侯及三師、三公，則用之。 「皇帝之璽」，賜諸侯及三師、三公書，則用之。 「皇帝信璽」，徵諸夏兵，則用之。 「天子行璽」，封命蕃國之君，則用之。 「天子之璽」，賜蕃國之君書，則用之。 「天子信璽」，徵蕃國兵，則用之。 常行詔勑，則用內史門下印。
The Spirit Seal—precious yet not used. The Mandate-Receiving Seal—used for feng and shan rites. The "Emperor's Traveling Seal"—used when sealing commands to feudal lords and the Three Preceptors and Three Dukes. The "Emperor's Seal"—used when bestowing letters on feudal lords and the Three Preceptors and Three Dukes. The "Emperor's Trust Seal"—used when mobilizing troops within the realm. The "Son of Heaven's Traveling Seal"—used when sealing commands to foreign rulers. The "Son of Heaven's Seal"—used when bestowing letters on foreign rulers. The "Son of Heaven's Trust Seal"—used when mobilizing foreign troops. For ordinary edicts and orders, the Inner Secretariat and Gate Department seal was used.
4
皇帝臨臣之喪，三品已上，服錫衰； 五等諸侯，緦衰； 四品已下，疑衰。
When the emperor attended a minister's mourning, for third rank and above he wore tin mourning; for feudal lords of the fifth rank, hemp mourning; for fourth rank and below, doubtful mourning.
5
皇太子袞冕，垂白珠九旒，青纊充耳，犀筓。 玄衣，纁裳。 衣，山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彝五章； 裳，藻、粉米、黼、黻四章。 織成為之。 白紗內單，黼領，青褾、襈、裾。 革帶，金鉤䚢，大帶，素帶不朱裏，亦紕以朱綠。 黻隨裳色，火、山二章。 玉具劍，火珠鏢首。 瑜玉雙佩，朱組。 雙，大綬，四采，赤白縹紺，純朱質，長一丈八尺，三百二十首，廣九寸； 小雙綬，長二尺六寸，色同大綬，而首半之，間施二玉環。 朱韈，赤舄，以金飾。 侍從皇帝祭祀及謁廟、元服、納妃，則服之。
The crown prince's guan mián hung nine white bead tassels; green ear-plugs filled the ears; rhinoceros hairpin. Black upper garment, vermilion lower skirt. On the upper garment: mountain, dragon, embroidered insect, fire, and ancestral vessels—five emblems; On the skirt: waterweed, grain, rice, fu, and fe—four emblems. These were woven to form them. White gauze inner garment, fu-pattern collar, green cuffs, border, and hem. Leather belt with gold hook plaque; great sash of plain silk without vermilion lining, also bordered in vermilion and green. The fu knee cover matched the skirt color, with fire and mountain—two emblems. Jade-mounted sword with fire-pearl pommel. Paired fine jade pendants on vermilion cords. Paired great sashes in four colors—red, white, light blue, and dark blue—of pure vermilion substance, one zhang eight chi in length, three hundred twenty tassels, nine cun wide; Paired small sashes two chi six cun in length, the same colors as the great sash but half the tassels, with two jade rings set between. Vermilion socks, red ceremonial shoes with gold ornament. This was worn when accompanying the emperor at sacrifices, visiting the ancestral temple, the capping ceremony, and the empress's investiture.
6
遠遊三梁冠，加金附蟬，九首，施珠翠，黑介幘，纓翠緌，犀簪導。 絳紗袍，白紗內單，皁領、褾、襈、裾，白假帶，方心曲領，絳紗蔽膝，韈，舄。 其革帶、劍、佩、綬與上同。 未冠則雙童髻，空頂黑介幘，雙玉導，加寶飾。 謁廟、還宮、元日朔日入朝、釋奠，則服之。
Far-wandering three-ridge cap with gold attached cicada, nine tassels, pearl and kingfisher feather ornament, black jie headcloth, green tassel cord, rhinoceros hairpin guide. Crimson gauze robe, white gauze inner garment, black collar, cuffs, border, and hem, white imitation sash, square heart and curved collar, crimson gauze knee cover, socks, and shoes. The leather belt, sword, pendants, and sash were the same as above. If not yet capped, double child topknots, open-topped black jie headcloth, paired jade guides with precious ornament. This was worn when visiting the ancestral temple, returning to the palace, New Year's Day and first-day-of-month audience, and libation sacrifice.
7
遠遊冠，公服，絳紗單衣，革帶，金鉤䚢，假帶，方心。 紛長六尺四寸，廣二寸四分，色同其綬。 金縷鞶囊，韈，履。 五日常朝，則服之。
Far-wandering cap with official dress, crimson gauze single garment, leather belt with gold hook plaque, imitation sash, square heart. The sash-fringe was six chi four cun long and two cun four fen wide, the same color as its sash. Gold-threaded purse, socks, and shoes. This was worn for the five-day regular court audience.
8
白帢，單衣，烏皮履，為宮臣舉哀，則服之。
White kerchief, single garment, black leather shoes—worn when palace officials expressed mourning.
9
皇太子璽，宮內大事用之。 小事用左、右庶子印。
The crown prince's seal—used for major affairs within the palace. For minor affairs, the Left and Right Supervisor of the Household seals were used.
10
皇太子臨弔三師、三少，則錫衰； 宮臣四品已上，緦衰； 五品已下，疑衰。
When the crown prince attended mourning for the Three Preceptors and Three Minor Preceptors, he wore tin mourning; for palace officials of fourth rank and above, hemp mourning; for fifth rank and below, doubtful mourning.
11
袞冕，青珠九旒，以組為纓，色如其綬。 服九章，同皇太子。 王、國公、開國公初受冊，執贄，入朝，祭，親迎，則服之。 三公助祭者亦服之。
Guan mián with green bead tassels, nine tassels; silk cords served as the chin strap, their color matching the sash. Nine emblems on the robe, the same as the crown prince. Princes, state dukes, and founding dukes wore it when first receiving investiture, bearing tribute gifts, entering court, sacrificing, and in the bridegroom's welcome. The Three Dukes who assisted at sacrifice also wore it.
12
鷩冕，服七章。 衣，華蟲、火、宗彝三章； 裳，藻、粉、米、黼黻四章。 侯、伯初受冊，執贄，入朝，祭，親迎，則服之。
Bi mián, with seven emblems on the robe. On the upper garment: embroidered insect, fire, and ancestral vessels—three emblems; On the skirt: waterweed, grain, rice, fu and fe—four emblems. Marquises and earls wore it when first receiving investiture, bearing tribute gifts, entering court, sacrificing, and in the bridegroom's welcome.
13
毳冕，服五章。 衣，宗彝、藻、粉米三章，裳黼、黻二章。 子、男初受冊，執贄，入朝，祭，親迎，則服之。
Cui mián, with five emblems on the robe. On the upper garment: ancestral vessels, waterweed, and grain—three emblems; on the skirt fu and fe—two emblems. Viscounts and barons wore it when first receiving investiture, bearing tribute gifts, entering court, sacrificing, and in the bridegroom's welcome.
14
𧝉冕，服三章。 正三品已下，從五品已上，助祭則服之。
Yi mián, with three emblems on the robe. Regular third rank and below, honorary fifth rank and above—worn when assisting at sacrifice.
15
自王公已下服章，皆繡為之。 祭服冕，皆簪導、青纊充耳。 玄衣，纁裳，白紗內單，黼領，青褾、襈、裾。 革帶，鉤䚢，大帶，朱韍，凡韍皆隨裳色，袞、鷩毳，火、山二章。 𧝉，劍，佩，綬，韈，赤舄。
From princes and dukes downward, robe emblems were all worked in embroidery. Sacrificial mián all had hairpin guides and green ear-plugs filling the ears. Black upper garment, vermilion lower skirt, white gauze inner garment, fu-pattern collar, green cuffs, border, and hem. Leather belt, hook plaque, great sash, vermilion knee cover—all knee covers followed the skirt color; for guan, bi, and cui mián, fire and mountain—two emblems. For yi mián: sword, pendants, sash, socks, and red ceremonial shoes.
16
爵弁，玄纓無旒，從九品已上，助祭，則服之。 其制服簪導，玄衣，纁裳無章，白絹內單，青領、褾、襈、裾，革帶，大帶，爵韠，韈，赤履。
Jue biàn with black chin strap and no tassels—honorary ninth rank and above wore it when assisting at sacrifice. Its prescribed dress: hairpin guide, black upper garment, vermilion lower skirt without emblems, white silk inner garment, green collar, cuffs, border, and hem, leather belt, great sash, jue knee cover, socks, and red shoes.
17
武弁，平巾幘，諸武職及侍臣通服之。 侍臣加金璫附蟬，以貂為飾，侍左者左珥，右者右珥。
Military cap and flat zé headcloth—generally worn by all military officials and attendants. Attendants added gold earring with attached cicada, sable as ornament—those attending on the left wore the left earring, those on the right the right earring.
18
遠遊三梁冠，黑介幘，諸王服之。
Far-wandering three-ridge cap with black jie headcloth—worn by all princes.
19
進賢冠，黑介幘，文官服之。 從三品已上三梁，從五品已上兩梁，流內九品已上一梁。
Advance-the-worthy cap with black jie headcloth—worn by civil officials. Honorary third rank and above had three ridges, honorary fifth rank and above two ridges, and within the nine ranks honorary ninth rank and above one ridge.
20
法冠，一名獬豸冠，鐵為柱，其上施珠兩枚，為獬豸角形。 法官服之。
Law cap, also called xiezhi cap, with an iron pillar on which two pearls were set in the form of xiezhi horns. Judicial officials wore it.
21
高山冠，謁者服之。
High Mountain cap—petitioners wore it.
22
却非冠，門者及禁防伺非服之。
Repel-Wrong cap—gatekeepers and guards who watch for improper dress wore it.
23
黑介幘，平巾黑幘，應服者，並上下通服之。 庖人則綠幘。
Black jie headcloth, flat black zé headcloth—those who should wear them all wore them above and below. Kitchen workers wore green zé headcloths.
24
白帢，白紗單衣，烏皮履，上下通服之。
White kerchief, white gauze single garment, black leather shoes—generally worn above and below.
25
委貌冠，未冠則雙童髻，空頂黑介幘，皆深衣，青領，烏皮履。 國子太學四門生服之。
Wei mao cap; if not yet capped, double child topknots, open-topped black jie headcloth—all wore deep garments with green collar and black leather shoes. Students of the Directorate of Education, Imperial University, and Four Gates Academy wore it.
26
朝服，冠，幘，簪導，白筆，絳紗單衣，白紗內單，皂領、袖，皂襈，革帶，鉤䚢，假帶，曲領方心，絳紗蔽膝，韈，舄，綬，劍，佩。 從五品已上，陪祭、朝饗、拜表，凡大事則服之。 六品已下，從七品已上，去劍、佩、綬，餘並同。
Court dress: cap, zé headcloth, hairpin guide, white brush, crimson gauze single garment, white gauze inner garment, black collar and sleeves, black border, leather belt, hook plaque, imitation sash, curved collar and square heart, crimson gauze knee cover, socks, shoes, sash, sword, and pendants. Honorary fifth rank and above wore it for assisting at sacrifice, court feasts, presenting memorials, and all major occasions. Sixth rank and below, honorary seventh rank and above—removed sword, pendants, and sash; the rest was the same.
27
自餘公事，皆從公服。 冠，幘，簪導，絳紗單衣，革帶，鉤䚢，假帶，方心，韈，履，紛，鞶囊。 從五品已上服之。
For all other official business, official dress was worn. Cap, zé headcloth, hairpin guide, crimson gauze single garment, leather belt, hook plaque, imitation sash, square heart, socks, shoes, sash-fringe, and purse. Honorary fifth rank and above wore it.
28
絳褠衣公服，流外五品已下、九品已上服之。
Crimson-trimmed official dress—those outside the ranks of fifth rank and below, ninth rank and above wore it.
29
綬，王，纁朱綬，四采，赤黃縹紺，純朱質，纁文織，長一丈八尺，二百四十首，廣九寸。 公，玄朱綬，四采，玄赤縹紺，純朱質，玄文織，長一丈八尺，二百四十首，廣九寸。 侯、伯，青朱綬，四采，青赤白縹，純朱質，青文織，長一丈六尺，百八十首，廣八寸。 子、男，素朱綬，三采，青赤白，純朱質，白文織成，一丈四尺，百四十首，廣七寸。 正、從一品，綠綟綬，四采，綠紫黃赤，純綠質，長一丈八尺，二百四十首，廣九寸。 從三品已上，紫綬，三采，紫黃赤，純紫質，長一丈六尺，百八十首，廣八寸。 銀青光祿大夫，朝議大夫及正、從四品，青綬，三采，青白紅，純青質，長一丈四尺，百四十首，廣七寸。 正、從五品，墨綬，二采，青紺，純紺質，長一丈二尺，百首，廣六寸。 自王公已下，皆有小雙綬，長二尺六寸，色同大綬，而首半之。 正、從一品，施二玉環，已下不合。 其有綬者則有紛，皆長六尺四寸，廣二寸四分，各隨其綬色。
Sash—princes: crimson-vermilion sash in four colors, red, yellow, light blue, and dark blue, of pure vermilion substance, crimson woven pattern, one zhang eight chi in length, two hundred forty tassels, nine cun wide. Dukes: black-vermilion sash in four colors, black, red, light blue, and dark blue, of pure vermilion substance, black woven pattern, one zhang eight chi in length, two hundred forty tassels, nine cun wide. Marquises and earls: green-vermilion sash in four colors, green, red, white, and light blue, of pure vermilion substance, green woven pattern, one zhang six chi in length, one hundred eighty tassels, eight cun wide. Viscounts and barons: plain-vermilion sash in three colors, green, red, and white, of pure vermilion substance, white woven pattern, one zhang four chi in length, one hundred forty tassels, seven cun wide. Regular and honorary first rank: green-black sash in four colors, green, purple, yellow, and red, of pure green substance, one zhang eight chi in length, two hundred forty tassels, nine cun wide. Honorary third rank and above: purple sash in three colors, purple, yellow, and red, of pure purple substance, one zhang six chi in length, one hundred eighty tassels, eight cun wide. Silver-Green-Glory Grand Master of Splendid Happiness, Grand Master for Discussion, and regular and honorary fourth rank: green sash in three colors, green, white, and red, of pure green substance, one zhang four chi in length, one hundred forty tassels, seven cun wide. Regular and honorary fifth rank: black sash in two colors, green and dark blue, of pure dark blue substance, one zhang two chi in length, one hundred tassels, six cun wide. From princes and dukes downward, all had small paired sashes two chi six cun in length, the same colors as the great sash but half the tassels. Regular and honorary first rank had two jade rings set between; below that, not permitted. Those who had sashes also had sash-fringes, all six chi four cun long and two cun four fen wide, each matching its sash color.
30
鞶囊，二品已上金縷，三品金銀縷，四品及開國男銀縷，五品綵縷。 官無綬者，則不合劍佩。 一品及五等諸侯，並佩山玄玉。 五品已上，佩水蒼玉。
Purse—second rank and above gold thread, third rank gold and silver thread, fourth rank and founding barons silver thread, fifth rank colored thread. Officials without sashes did not wear sword and pendants. First rank and feudal lords of the fifth rank all wore mountain-dark jade pendants. Fifth rank and above wore water-azure jade pendants.
31
年高致仕及以理去官，被召謁見，皆服前官從省服。 州郡秀孝，試見之日，皆假進賢一梁冠，絳公服。
Those advanced in years who retired and those who left office by rule, when summoned for audience, all wore the reduced dress of their former office. On the day of examination for provincial and commandery recommended filial and incorrupt candidates, all temporarily wore advance-the-worthy one-ridge caps and crimson official dress.
32
隱居道素之士，被召入謁見者，黑介幘，白單衣，革帶，烏皮履。
Recluses of pure principle, when summoned for audience, wore black jie headcloth, white single garment, leather belt, and black leather shoes.
33
左右衞、左右武衞、左右武候大將軍、領左右大將軍，並武弁，絳朝服，劍，佩，綬。 侍從則平巾幘，紫衫，大口袴褶，金玳瑁裝兩襠甲。 唯左右武衞大將軍執赤檉杖。 左右衞、左右武衞、左右武候將軍、領左右將軍、左右監門衞將軍、太子左右衞、左右宗衞、左右內等率、左右監門郎將及諸副率，並武弁，絳朝服，劍，佩，綬。 侍從則平巾幘，紫衫，大口袴，金裝兩襠甲。 唯左右武衞將軍、太子左右宗衞率，執白檀杖。
Left and Right Guard, Left and Right Martial Guard, Left and Right Martial Sentinel Grand Generals, and Commanders of the Left and Right Guard—all wore military caps, crimson court dress, sword, pendants, and sash. When attending, flat zé headcloth, purple jacket, wide trousers and battle dress, gold tortoiseshell-decorated double-breastplate armor. Only the Left and Right Martial Guard Grand Generals carried red catalpa staffs. Left and Right Guard, Left and Right Martial Guard, Left and Right Martial Sentinel Generals, Commanders of the Left and Right Guard, Left and Right Gate Guard Generals, Crown Prince's Left and Right Guard, Left and Right Palace Guard, Left and Right Inner Rate, Left and Right Gate Guard Commanders, and all deputy commanders—all wore military caps, crimson court dress, sword, pendants, and sash. When attending, flat zé headcloth, purple jacket, wide trousers, gold-decorated double-breastplate armor. Only the Left and Right Martial Guard Generals and Crown Prince's Left and Right Palace Guard Commanders carried white sandalwood staffs.
34
直閤將軍、直寢、直齋、太子直閤，武弁，絳朝服，劍，佩，綬。 侍從則平巾幘，絳衫，大口袴褶，銀裝兩襠甲。
Direct Attendant Generals, Direct Quarters, Direct Fast, Crown Prince's Direct Attendants—all wore military caps, crimson court dress, sword, pendants, and sash. When attending, flat zé headcloth, crimson jacket, wide trousers and battle dress, silver-decorated double-breastplate armor.
35
皇后首飾，花十二樹。 皇太子妃，公主，王妃，三師、三公及公夫人，一品命婦，並九樹。 侯夫人，二品命婦，並八樹。 伯夫人，三品命婦，並七樹。 子夫人，世婦及皇太子昭訓，四品已上官命婦，並六樹。 男夫人，五品命婦，五樹。 女御及皇太子良娣，三樹。
The empress's head ornament: twelve flower trees. Crown prince's consort, princesses, princesses consort, the Three Preceptors, Three Dukes and duchesses, and first-rank titled ladies—all nine trees. Marchioness, second-rank titled lady—all eight trees. Countess, third-rank titled lady—all seven trees. Viscountess, palace women of the heir, and titled ladies of fourth rank and above—all six trees. Baroness, fifth-rank titled lady—five trees. Imperial concubines and crown prince's good companions—three trees.
36
皇后褘衣，深青織成為之。 青紗內單，黼領，羅縠褾、襈，蔽膝，大帶，以青衣，革帶，青韈、舄，白玉佩，玄組、綬。 祭及朝會，凡大事則服之。
The empress's hui robe, woven in deep green. Green gauze inner garment, fu-pattern collar, gauze cuffs and border, knee cover, great sash, green upper garment, leather belt, green socks and shoes, white jade pendants, black cords and sash. Worn for sacrifice and court assembly, and all major occasions.
37
鞠衣，黃羅為之。 其蔽膝、大帶及衣、革帶、舄，隨衣色。 餘與褘衣同，唯無雉。 親蠶則服之。
Ju robe, made of yellow gauze. Its knee cover, great sash, upper garment, leather belt, and shoes followed the robe color. The rest was the same as the hui robe, except without pheasant. Worn when personally tending the silkworms.
38
青衣，青羅為之，制與鞠衣同。 去花、大帶及佩綬。 以禮見皇帝，則服之。
Green robe, made of green gauze, the same form as the ju robe. Without flower ornament, great sash, and pendant sash. Worn when paying respects to the emperor according to ritual.
39
朱衣，緋羅為之，制如青衣。 宴見賓客則服之。
Vermilion robe, made of crimson gauze, the same form as the green robe. Worn when banqueting and receiving guests.
40
皇太后服與皇后同。 皇太后璽，不行用，若封令書，則用宮官之印。
The empress dowager's dress was the same as the empress's. The empress dowager's seal was not used in ordinary affairs; when sealing edicts, the palace officials' seal was used.
41
皇后璽，不行用，若封令書，則用內侍之印。
The empress's seal was not used in ordinary affairs; when sealing edicts, the inner attendants' seal was used.
42
皇太子妃褕翟，青紗內單，黼領，羅縠褾、襈，蔽膝，大帶，以青衣，革帶，青韈、舄，瑜玉佩，純朱綬。 助祭朝會，凡大事則服之。 亦有鞠衣。
Crown prince's consort's yu di robe, green gauze inner garment, fu-pattern collar, gauze cuffs and border, knee cover, great sash, green upper garment, leather belt, green socks and shoes, fine jade pendants, pure vermilion sash. Worn for assisting at sacrifice and court assembly, and all major occasions. There was also a ju robe.
43
皇太子妃璽，不行用，若封書，則用典內之印。
The crown prince's consort's seal was not used in ordinary affairs; when sealing letters, the Directorate of Palace Affairs' seal was used.
44
公主，王妃，三師、三公及公侯伯夫人，服褕翟。 助祭朝會，凡大事則服之。 亦有鞠衣。
Princesses, princesses consort, the Three Preceptors, Three Dukes, and duchesses, marchionesses, and countesses wore yu di robes. Worn for assisting at sacrifice and court assembly, and all major occasions. There was also a ju robe.
45
子、男夫人，服闕翟。 助祭朝會，凡大事則服之。 亦有鞠衣。
Viscountesses and baronesses wore que di robes. Worn for assisting at sacrifice and court assembly, and all major occasions. There was also a ju robe.
46
諸王、公、侯、伯、子、男之母，與妃、夫人同。 其郡縣君，各視其夫及子。 若郡縣君品高及無夫、子者，準品。
The mothers of all princes, dukes, marquises, earls, viscounts, and barons had the same dress as consorts and ladies. Commandery and district ladies followed their husbands and sons in rank. If a commandery or district lady's rank was high, or if she had no husband or son, she followed her own rank.
47
嬪及從三品已上官命婦，青服。 助祭朝會，凡大事則服之。 亦有鞠衣。
Imperial consorts and titled ladies of honorary third rank and above wore green dress. Worn for assisting at sacrifice and court assembly, and all major occasions. There was also a ju robe.
48
世婦及皇太子昭訓，從五品已上官命婦，服青服。 助祭從蠶朝會，凡大事則服之。
Palace women of the heir and the crown prince's zhaoxun instructors, titled ladies of honorary fifth rank and above, wore green dress. Worn for assisting at sacrifice, tending silkworms, court assembly, and all major occasions.
49
女御及皇太子良媛，朱服。 助祭從蠶朝會，凡大事則服之。
Imperial concubines and the crown prince's good attendants wore vermilion dress. Worn for assisting at sacrifice, tending silkworms, court assembly, and all major occasions.
50
六尚，朱絲布公服。 助祭從蠶朝會，凡大事則服之。
The Six Chief Attendants wore vermilion silk official dress. Worn for assisting at sacrifice, tending silkworms, court assembly, and all major occasions.
51
六司、六典及皇太子三司、三典、三掌，青紗公服。 助祭從蠶朝會，凡大事則服之。
The Six Directors, Six Superintendents, and the crown prince's Three Directors, Three Superintendents, and Three Controllers wore green gauze official dress. Worn for assisting at sacrifice, tending silkworms, court assembly, and all major occasions.
52
佩綬，嬪同九卿，世婦及皇太子昭訓同五品，公主、王妃同諸王，三師、三公、五等國夫人及從五品已上官命婦，皆準其夫。 無夫者準品。
Pendant sashes—imperial consorts same as the Nine Ministers, palace women of the heir and the crown prince's zhaoxun same as fifth rank, princesses and princesses consort same as princes, the Three Preceptors, Three Dukes, ladies of the five feudal ranks and titled ladies of honorary fifth rank and above—all followed their husbands. Those without husbands followed their own rank.
53
定令訖。
The regulations were thus fixed.
54
高祖元正朝會，方御通天服，郊丘宗廟，盡用龍袞衣，大裘毳𧝉，皆未能備。 至平陳，得其器物，衣冠法服，始依禮具。 然皆藏御府，弗服用焉。 百官常服，同於匹庶，皆著黃袍，出入殿省。 高祖朝服亦如之，唯帶加十三環，以為差異。 蓋取於便事。 及大業元年，煬帝始詔吏部尚書牛弘、工部尚書宇文愷、兼內史侍郎虞世基、給事郎許善心、儀曹郎袁朗等，憲章古制，創造衣冠，自天子逮于胥皁，服章皆有等差。 若先所有者，則因循取用，弘等議定乘輿服，合八等焉。
At Emperor Gaozu's New Year's Day court assembly, he just managed tongtian dress; for suburban altars and ancestral temples he entirely used dragon guan robes; the great fur robe, cui mián, and yi mián were all not yet complete. When Chen was pacified, its vessels, caps and robes, and ritual dress were obtained, and only then were they fully provided according to ritual. Yet all were stored in the imperial treasury and not worn. The ordinary dress of all officials was the same as commoners—all wore yellow robes when entering and leaving the palace halls. Emperor Gaozu's court dress was also like this, except the belt had thirteen rings added as a mark of distinction. This was taken for convenience in affairs. In the first year of Daye, Emperor Yang first ordered Minister of Personnel Niu Hong, Minister of Works Yu Wenkai, Concurrent Palace Attendant Yu Shiji, Attendant Gentleman Xu Shansin, and Ritual Section Gentleman Yuan Lang and others to take the constitution and regulations from ancient models and create caps and robes—from the Son of Heaven down to the lowest clerk, dress insignia all had gradations. What already existed was retained and used; Hong and the others deliberated and fixed the imperial dress in eight grades.
55
大裘冕之制，案周禮，大裘之冕，無旒。 三禮衣服圖：「大裘而冕，王祀昊天上帝及五帝之服。」 至秦，除六冕，唯留玄冕。 漢明帝永平中，方始創制。 董巴志云：「漢六冕同制，皆闊七寸，長尺二寸，前圓後方。」 於是遂依此為大裘冕制，青表，朱裏，不施旒纊，不通於下。 其大裘之服，案周官注「羔裘也」。 其制，準禮圖，以羔正黑者為之，取同色繒以為領袖。 其裳用纁，而無章飾，絳韈，赤舄。 祀圓丘、感帝、封禪、五郊、明堂、雩、蜡，皆服之。
The form of the great fur robe and mián: examining the Rites of Zhou, the great fur robe mián had no tassels. The Illustrations of Robes in the Three Rites: "Great fur robe and mián—the king's dress for sacrificing to the Supreme God of Heaven and the Five Emperors." Reaching Qin, the six mián were abolished, leaving only the black mián. In the Yongping era under Emperor Ming of Han, they were first newly created. Dong Ba's monograph says: "The six mián of Han shared one form, all seven cun wide, one chi two cun long, round in front and square behind." Thereupon they followed this as the great fur robe mián form: green exterior, vermilion lining, no tassels or ear-plugs applied, not extending below. The great fur robe dress: examining the commentary on the Offices of Zhou, "lamb fur robe." Its form, according to the ritual illustrations, was made of properly black lamb fur, with silk of the same color for collar and sleeves. Its skirt was vermilion, without patterned ornament, vermilion socks, red ceremonial shoes. Worn when sacrificing at the Round Mound, Lord of the Five Emperors, feng and shan rites, five suburban altars, Bright Hall, rain prayer, and la sacrifice.
56
袞冕之制，案禮玉藻「十有二旒」。 大戴禮云：「冕而加旒，以蔽明也，琇纊塞耳，以蔽聰也。」 又禮含文嘉：「前後邃延，不視邪也，加以黈纊，不聽讒也。」 三王之冕，既不通制，故夫子云：「行夏之時，服周之冕。」 今以采綖貫珠，為旒十二。 邃延者，出冕前後而下垂之，旒齊於髆，纊齊於耳，組為纓，玉笄導。 其為服之制，案釋名云「袞，卷也」，謂畫龍於上也。 是時虞世基奏曰：
The form of guan mián: examining the "Jade Ornaments" in the Rites, "twelve tassels." The Great Dai Rites says: "Mián with tassels added to cover brightness, fine ear-plugs to stop the ears to cover hearing." Also the Rites' "Embodying the Auspicious Patterns": "Front and back extending far, not looking askance; adding yellow and blue ear-plugs, not listening to slander." The mián of the Three Kings did not share one form, so the Master said: "Follow the Xia calendar, wear the Zhou mián." Now colored cords strung with pearls form twelve tassels. Extending far means projecting before and behind the mián and hanging down; tassels level with the crown top, ear-plugs level with the ears; silk cords as chin strap, jade hairpin guide. The form of its dress: examining the Explaining Names, "guan, rolled up," meaning dragons painted above. At that time Yu Shiji memorialized:
57
:後周故事，升日月於旌旗，乃闕三辰，而章無十二。 但有山、龍、華蟲作繪，宗彝、藻、火、粉米、黼、黻，乃與三公不異。 開皇中，就裏欲生分別，故衣重宗彝，裳重黼黻，合重二物，以就九章，為十二等。 但每一物，上下重行。 袞服用九，鷩服用七，今重此三物，乃非典故。 且周氏執謙，不敢負於日月，所以綴此三象，唯施太常，天王袞衣，章乃從九。 但天子譬日，德在照臨，辰為帝位，月主正后，負此三物，合德齊明，自古有之，理應無惑。 周執謙道，殊未可依，重用宗彝，又乖法服。
According to Later Zhou precedent, sun and moon were raised on banners and flags, thus omitting the three luminaries, while the emblems were not twelve. There were only mountain, dragon, and embroidered insect as painting, ancestral vessels, waterweed, fire, grain, fu, and fe—thus no different from the Three Dukes. In the Kaihuang period, wishing to create distinctions within, the upper garment emphasized ancestral vessels and the skirt emphasized fu and fe, combining two repeated emblems to make nine chapters into twelve grades. But each emblem was repeated above and below in rows. Guan dress used nine, bi dress used seven—now repeating these three emblems is not according to ancient precedent. Moreover Zhou practiced humility, not daring to bear sun and moon upon themselves, so they attached these three symbols only on the Grand Banner; the Heavenly King's guan robe had emblems following nine. But the Son of Heaven is like the sun, his virtue in shining forth; the stars are the emperor's position, the moon governs the principal consort—bearing these three emblems, combined virtue and equal brightness, has existed from antiquity and should not be doubted. Zhou's practice of humility cannot be followed; repeating ancestral vessels again also departs from prescribed dress.
58
:今準尚書：「予欲觀古人之服，日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲作會，宗彝、藻、火、粉米、黼黻絺繡。」 具依此，於左右髆上為日月各一，當後領下而為星辰，又山、龍九物，各重行十二。 又近代故實，依尚書大傳：「山龍純青，華蟲純黃，作會； 宗彝純黑，藻純白，火純赤。」 以此相間，而為五采。 鄭玄議已自非之，云：「五采相錯，非一色也。」 今並用織成於繡，五色錯文。 準孔安國，衣質以玄，加山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彝等，並織成為五物； 裳質以纁，加藻、粉米、黼、黻之四。 衣裳通數，此為九章，兼上三辰，而備十二也。 衣褾、領上各帖升龍，漢、晉以來，率皆如此。 既是先王法服，不可乖於夏制，徵而用之，理將為允。
Now according to the Documents: "I wish to observe the dress of the ancients—sun, moon, stars, mountain, dragon, and embroidered insect as assembly, ancestral vessels, waterweed, fire, grain, fu and fe as fine embroidery." Fully following this, on the left and right crown tops one sun and one moon each, stars below the back collar, and the nine emblems of mountain and dragon each repeated in twelve rows. Also recent precedent, according to the Great Commentary on the Documents: "Mountain and dragon pure green, embroidered insect pure yellow, as assembly; ancestral vessels pure black, waterweed pure white, fire pure red." Using these alternately, forming five colors. Zheng Xuan in his deliberation already criticized this, saying: "Five colors intermixed are not one color." Now all use woven work in embroidery, five colors interwoven. Following Kong Anguo, the upper garment substance black, adding mountain, dragon, embroidered insect, fire, ancestral vessels and the like, all woven as five emblems; skirt substance vermilion, adding waterweed, grain, fu, and fe—four more. Upper and lower garment total, this makes nine chapters, plus the three luminaries above, completing twelve. Collar and upper border each had ascending dragons attached—since Han and Jin, all have generally been thus. Since this is the sage's prescribed dress, it cannot depart from Xia models—adopting and using it is in principle acceptable.
59
墨勑曰：「可。」 承以單衣。 又案董巴輿服志宗廟冕服云：「絳領、袖為內單衣。」 又車服雜記曰：「天子釋奠、郊祭而單衣，以絳緣。」 今用白紗為內單，黼領，絳褾，青裾及襈。 革帶，玉鉤䚢，大帶朱裏，紕其外。 紐約用組，上加朱𩊊。 又案說文：「韠，韍也。 所以蔽前。」 禮記曰：「有虞氏韍，夏后氏山，殷火，周龍章。」 鄭玄曰：「冕之韍也，舜始作之，以尊祭服。 禹、湯至周，增以文飾。」 禮記曰：「君朱韠。」 鄭曰：「韠象裳色。」 今依白武通注，以蔽裳前，上闊一尺，象天數也； 下闊二尺，象地數也； 長三尺，象三才也； 加龍章山火，以備三代之法也。 於是制袞冕之服，玄衣，纁裳，合九章為十二等。 白紗內單，黼領，青褾、襈。 革帶，玉鉤䚢，大帶，韍，鹿盧玉具劍，火珠鏢首，白玉雙佩，玄組，大、小綬。 朱韈，赤舄，舄飾以金。 宗廟、社稷、籍田、方澤、朝日、夕月、遣將授律、征還飲至、加元服、納后、正冬受朝、臨軒拜爵，皆服之。
Imperial rescript: "Approved." Under it a single garment. Also examining Dong Ba's Carriages and Robes Monograph on ancestral temple mián dress: "Crimson collar and sleeves as inner single garment." Also the Miscellaneous Notes on Carriages and Robes say: "The Son of Heaven at libation sacrifice and suburban sacrifice wore single garment with crimson border." Now white gauze serves as inner single garment, fu-pattern collar, crimson border, green hem and cuff border. Leather belt, jade hook plaque, great sash with vermilion lining, its edges bordered. The buckle cord used silk cords, with vermilion knee cover added above. Also examining the Explaining Writing: "Bi, knee cover. That by which the front is covered." The Record of Rites says: "The Youyu clan's knee cover, Xia's mountain, Shang's fire, Zhou's dragon emblem." Zheng Xuan says: "The mián's knee cover—Shun first made it to honor sacrificial dress. From Yu and Tang to Zhou, patterned ornament was added." The Record of Rites says: "The ruler's vermilion knee cover." Zheng says: "The knee cover represents the skirt color." Now following the White Tiger Pass commentary, to cover before the skirt, one chi wide above, representing heaven's number; two chi wide below, representing earth's number; three chi long, representing the three powers; adding dragon emblem, mountain, and fire to complete the law of the Three Dynasties. Thereupon guan mián dress was made: black upper garment, vermilion lower skirt, nine chapters combined into twelve grades. White gauze inner garment, fu-pattern collar, green border and cuff border. Leather belt, jade hook plaque, great sash, knee cover, deer-path jade-mounted sword with fire-pearl pommel, paired white jade pendants on black cords, great and small sashes. Vermilion socks, red ceremonial shoes, shoes ornamented with gold. Worn for ancestral temple, altars of soil and grain, plowing the sacred field, Square Pond, morning and evening moon rites, dispatching generals with military codes, victory banquet on return from campaign, capping ceremony, empress's investiture, midwinter audience, and audience at the imperial throne to invest nobility.
60
通天冠之制，案董巴志：「冠高九寸，形正豎，頂少邪却，後乃直下為鐵卷梁，前有高山。」 故禮圖或謂之高山冠也。 晉起居注，成帝咸和五年，制詔殿內曰：「平天、通天冠，並不能佳，可更修理之。」 雖在禮無文，故知天子所冠，其來久矣。 又徐氏輿服注曰：「通天冠，高九寸，黑介幘，金博山。」 徐爰亦曰：「博山附蟬，謂之金顏。」 今制依此，不通於下，獨天子元會臨軒服之。 其服絳紗袍，深衣制，白紗內單，皁領、褾、裾、襈，絳紗蔽膝，白假帶，方心曲領。 其劍、佩、綬、舄、革帶，皆與上同。 元冬饗會、諸祭還，則服之。 四時視朔，則內單、領、襈，各隨其方色。 唯秋方色白，以綠代之。
The form of the tongtian cap: examining Dong Ba's monograph: "Cap nine cun high, form upright, top slightly slanting back, then straight down as iron rolled beam, High Mountain in front." Thus the ritual illustrations sometimes call it the High Mountain cap. The Jin Daily Records, in the fifth year of Xianhe under Emperor Cheng, edict in the palace hall: "The flat heaven and tongtian caps are both not good; they should be repaired further." Though without text in the Rites, one knows the Son of Heaven's cap has existed long. Also Master Xu's Carriages and Robes commentary says: "Tongtian cap, nine cun high, black jie headcloth, gold Boshan." Xu Ai also says: "Boshan with attached cicada is called gold countenance." The present form follows this, not extending below; only the Son of Heaven wears it at New Year's assembly and audience at the imperial throne. Its dress: crimson gauze robe in deep-garment style, white gauze inner garment, black collar, border, hem, and cuff border, crimson gauze knee cover, white imitation sash, square heart and curved collar. The sword, pendants, sash, shoes, and leather belt were all the same as above. Worn at midwinter feast assembly and on return from all sacrifices. At the four seasons' inspection of the new moon, the inner garment, collar, and cuff border each followed the color of its direction. Only for autumn the directional color was white, replaced with green.
61
遠遊冠之制，案漢雜事曰：「太子諸王服之。」 故淮南子曰：「楚莊王冠通梁，組纓。」 注云：「通梁，遠遊也。」 晉令：「皇太子諸王，給遠遊冠。」 徐氏雜注曰：「天子雜服，遠遊五梁。 太子諸王三梁。」 董巴志曰：「制如通天，有展筩，橫之幘上。」 今制依此，天子加金博山，九首，施珠翠，黑介幘，金緣，以承之。 翠緌纓，犀簪導。 太子親王加金附蟬，宗室王去附蟬，並不通於庶姓。 其乘輿遠遊冠服，白紗單衣，承以裙襦，烏皮履。 拜山陵則服之。
The form of the far-wandering cap: examining Han Miscellaneous Affairs: "The crown prince and all princes wore it." Thus the Huainanzi says: "King Zhuang of Chu wore the cap with connecting beam, silk cord tassel." The commentary says: "Connecting beam is far-wandering." Jin regulations: "Crown prince and all princes were given far-wandering caps." Master Xu's miscellaneous commentary says: "The Son of Heaven's miscellaneous dress, far-wandering five beams. Crown prince and princes three beams." Dong Ba's monograph says: "Form like tongtian, with display tube, laid crosswise on the zé headcloth." The present form follows this; the Son of Heaven adds gold Boshan, nine tassels, pearl and kingfisher feather ornament, black jie headcloth, gold border to support it. Green tassel cord, rhinoceros hairpin guide. The crown prince and imperial princes added gold attached cicada; princes of the imperial clan removed the attached cicada—neither extended to common surnames. The imperial far-wandering cap dress: white gauze single garment, with skirt and jacket beneath, black leather shoes. Worn when paying respects at mountain tombs.
62
武弁之制，案徐爰宋志，謂籠冠是也。 禮圖曰：「武士服之。」 董巴輿服志云：「諸常侍、內常侍，加黃金附蟬、毦尾，謂之惠文冠。」 今制，天子金博山，三公已上玉冠枝，四品已上金枝。 侍臣加附蟬，毦豐貂，文官七品已上毦白筆，八品已下及武官，皆不毦筆。 其乘輿武弁之服，衣、裳、綬如通天之服。 講武、出征、四時蒐狩、大射、禡、類、宜社、賞祖、罰社、纂嚴，皆服之。
The form of the military cap: examining Master Xu's Song Monograph, it is called the cage cap. The ritual illustrations say: "Warriors wore it. Dong Ba's Carriages and Robes Monograph says: "All regular attendants and inner regular attendants added yellow gold attached cicada and yak-tail ornament—called the Huìwén cap." The present form: the Son of Heaven gold Boshan, Three Dukes and above jade cap branches, fourth rank and above gold branches. Attendants added attached cicada, yak and sable; civil officials seventh rank and above sable and white brush, eighth rank and below and military officials all without sable and brush. The imperial military cap dress: upper garment, skirt, and sash like tongtian dress. Worn for martial exercises, campaigns, four-season hunts, great archery, ma and lei rites, earth-god rites, rewarding at the ancestral temple, punishing at the earth altar, and assembling the guard.
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弁之制，案五經通義：「高五寸，前後玉飾。」 詩云：「璯弁如星。」 董巴曰：「以鹿皮為之。」 尚書顧命：「四人綦弁，執戈。」 故知自天子至于執戈，通貴賤矣。 魏臺訪議曰：「天子以五采玉珠十二飾之。」 今參準此，通用烏漆紗而為之。 天子十二琪，皇太子及一品九琪，二品八琪，三品七琪，四品六琪，五品五琪，六品已下無琪。 唯文官服之，不通武職。 案禮圖，有結纓而無筓導。 少府少監何稠，請施象牙簪導。 詔許之。 弁加簪導，自茲始也。 乘輿鹿皮弁服，緋大襦，白羅裙，金烏皮履，革帶，小綬長二尺六寸，色同大綬，而首半之，間施三玉環，白玉佩一隻。 視朝聽訟則服之。 凡弁服，自天子已下，內外九品已上，弁皆以烏為質，並衣袴褶。 五品已上以紫，六品已下以絳。 宿衞及在仗內，加兩襠，螣蛇絳褠衣，連裳。 典謁贊引，流外冗吏，通服之，以縵。 後制鹿皮弁，以賜近臣。
The form of biàn: examining the Comprehensive Meaning of the Five Classics: "Five cun high, jade ornament front and back. The Odes say: "The biàn cap like stars." Dong Ba says: "Made of deerskin." The Documents' "Testamentary Charge": "Four men in dark biàn, bearing halberds." Thus one knows from the Son of Heaven down to halberd-bearers, it was worn by noble and base alike. The Wei Terrace Deliberation says: "The Son of Heaven ornamented it with five-colored jade beads, twelve in all. Now following this as reference, black lacquered gauze was generally used to make it. The Son of Heaven twelve qi beads, crown prince and first rank nine qi, second rank eight qi, third rank seven qi, fourth rank six qi, fifth rank five qi, sixth rank and below no qi. Only civil officials wore it, not extended to military posts. Examining the ritual illustrations, there was knotted chin strap but no hairpin guide. Assistant Director of the Palace Workshops He Chou requested adding ivory hairpin guides. An edict approved it. Biàn with hairpin guide began from this. Imperial deerskin biàn dress: crimson great jacket, white gauze skirt, gold and black leather shoes, leather belt, small sash two chi six cun long, same color as great sash but half the tassels, three jade rings set between, one white jade pendant. Worn for holding court and hearing lawsuits. For all biàn dress, from the Son of Heaven downward, inside and outside ninth rank and above, biàn all used black as substance, all wearing jacket and battle trousers. Fifth rank and above used purple, sixth rank and below used crimson. Palace guard and those within the guard formation added double-breastplate, serpent-pattern crimson-trimmed jacket, connected skirt. Directors of audience and ushers, clerks outside the ranks, generally wore it, using plain silk. Later deerskin biàn was made and bestowed on close ministers.
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帽，古野人之服也。 董巴云：「上古穴居野處，衣毛帽皮。」 以此而言，不施衣冠，明矣。 案宋、齊之間，天子宴私，著白高帽，士庶以烏，其制不定。 或有卷荷，或有下裙，或有紗高屋，或有烏紗長耳。 後周之時，咸著突騎帽，如今胡帽，垂裙覆帶，蓋索髮之遺象也。 又文帝項有瘤疾，不欲人見，每常著焉。 相魏之時，著而謁帝，故後周一代，將為雅服，小朝公宴，咸許戴之。 開皇初，高祖常著烏紗帽，自朝貴已下，至于冗吏，通著入朝。 今復制白紗高屋帽，其服，練裙襦，烏皮履。 宴接賓客則服之。
Cap—ancient dress of wild men. Dong Ba says: "In high antiquity people dwelt in caves in the wild, wearing fur and caps of leather. From this perspective, not applying caps and robes is clear. Examining the period of Song and Qi, the Son of Heaven at private banquets wore white high caps; gentry and commoners used black—the form was not fixed. Some had rolled lotus leaves, some had lower skirts, some had gauze high crowns, some had black gauze long ears. In Later Zhou times, all wore the sudden-cavalry cap, like present barbarian caps, with hanging skirt covering the sash—likely a remnant image of binding the hair. Also Emperor Wen had a tumor on his neck and did not wish people to see it, so he always wore it. When serving Wei he wore it to audience the emperor; thus for the whole Later Zhou generation it became elegant dress, and at small court and public banquets all were permitted to wear it. At the beginning of Kaihuang, Emperor Gaozu often wore black gauze caps; from court nobles downward to clerks, all generally wore them to enter court. Now white gauze high-crown cap is newly made; its dress: white silk skirt and jacket, black leather shoes. Worn when banqueting and receiving guests.
65
白帢，案傅子：「魏太祖以天下凶荒，資財乏匱，擬古皮弁，裁縑帛以為之。」 蓋自魏始也。 梁令，天子為朝臣等舉哀則服之。 今亦準此。 其服，白紗單衣，承以裙襦，烏皮履。 舉哀臨喪則服之。
White kerchief: examining Fu Xian: "Emperor Wu of Wei, because the realm was stricken with famine and resources were exhausted, modeled on the ancient leather biàn and cut silk to make it. It likely began from Wei. Liang regulations: the Son of Heaven wore it when expressing mourning for court ministers. Now this is also followed. Its dress: white gauze single garment, with skirt and jacket beneath, black leather shoes. Worn when expressing mourning and attending funerals.
66
幘，案董巴云：「起於秦人，施於武將，初為絳袙，以表貴賤焉。 至漢孝文時，乃加以高顏。」 孝元帝額有壯髮，不欲人見，乃始進幘。 又董偃召見，綠幘傅韝。 東觀記云：「詔賜段熲赤幘大冠一具。」 故知自上已下，至于皁隸，及將帥等，皆通服之。 今天子畋獵御戎，文官出遊田里，武官自一品已下，至于九品，并流外吏色，皆同烏。 厨人以綠，卒及馭人以赤，舉輦人以黃。 駕五輅人，逐其車色。 承遠遊、進賢者，施以掌導，謂之介幘。 承武弁者，施以筓導，謂之平巾。 其乘輿黑介幘之服，紫羅褶，南布袴，玉梁帶，紫絲鞋，長靿靴。 畋獵豫遊則服之。
Zé headcloth: examining Dong Ba, it says: "It arose among the Qin people, applied to military generals; initially a crimson kerchief to mark noble and base. Reaching Emperor Xiaowen of Han, a high forehead was added. Emperor Xiaoyuan had strong hair on his forehead and did not wish people to see it, so he first advanced the zé headcloth. Also Dong Yan was summoned for audience in green zé headcloth with arm guard. The Eastern View Records say: "An edict bestowed on Duan Jiong one set of red zé headcloth and great cap. Thus one knows from the Son of Heaven downward to clerks, and generals and the like, all generally wore it. Now the Son of Heaven at hunts and in military dress, civil officials going out to villages and fields, military officials from first rank downward to ninth rank, and all clerks outside the ranks—the color all alike black. Kitchen workers green, runners and charioteers red, palanquin bearers yellow. Those driving the five chariots followed their chariot color. Those supporting far-wandering and advance-the-worthy caps applied palm guides—called jie zé headcloth. Those supporting military caps applied hairpin guides—called flat zé headcloth. The imperial black jie zé headcloth dress: purple gauze jacket, southern cloth trousers, jade-beam belt, purple silk shoes, long-shaft boots. Worn at hunts and pleasure excursions.
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皇太子服六等，袞冕九旒，朱組纓，青纊珫耳，犀簪導。 紺衣，纁裳，去日月星辰為九章。 白紗內單，黼黻領，青褾、襈、裾。 革帶，金鉤䚢，大帶，韍二章，玉具劍。 侍從祭祀，及謁廟、加元服、納妃，則服之。 據晉咸寧四年故事，衣色用玄，改用紺。 舊章用織成，降以繡。 玉具劍，故事以火珠鏢首，改以白珠。 開皇中，皇太子冕同天子，貫白珠。 及仁壽元年，煬帝為太子，以白珠太逼，表請從青珠。 於是太子袞冕，與三公王等，皆青珠九旒。 旒短不及髆，降天子二寸。
The crown prince's dress in six grades: guan mián with nine tassels, vermilion cord chin strap, green ear-plugs filling the ears, rhinoceros hairpin guide. Dark blue upper garment, vermilion lower skirt, removing sun, moon, and stars for nine chapters. White gauze inner garment, fu and fe collar, green cuffs, border, and hem. Leather belt, gold hook plaque, great sash, knee cover with two emblems, jade-mounted sword. Worn when accompanying at sacrifice, visiting the ancestral temple, capping ceremony, and empress's investiture. According to the fourth-year precedent of Xianning under Jin, robe color used black; now changed to dark blue. Old regulations used woven work; reduced to embroidery. Jade-mounted sword: precedent used fire-pearl pommel; changed to white pearl. In the Kaihuang period, the crown prince's mián was the same as the Son of Heaven's, strung with white pearls. In the first year of Renshou, when Yang Guang was crown prince, because white pearls were too close in appearance, he memorialized requesting green pearls instead. Thereupon the crown prince's guan mián, like the Three Dukes and princes, all had green pearl nine tassels. Tassels short, not reaching the crown top—two cun lower than the Son of Heaven's.
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遠遊冠，金附蟬，加寶飾珠翠，九首，珠纓翠緌，犀簪導。 絳紗袍，白紗內單，皁領、褾、襈、裾。 白假帶，方心曲領，絳紗蔽膝。 韈，舄，革帶，劍，佩，綬同袞冕。 未冠則雙童髻，空頂黑介幘，雙玉導，加寶飾珠翠，二首。 謁廟還，元日、朔旦入朝，釋奠，則服之。
Far-wandering cap with gold attached cicada, precious ornament of pearl and kingfisher feather, nine tassels, pearl tassel and green cord, rhinoceros hairpin guide. Crimson gauze robe, white gauze inner garment, black collar, cuffs, border, and hem. White imitation sash, square heart and curved collar, crimson gauze knee cover. Socks, shoes, leather belt, sword, pendants, and sash same as guan mián. If not yet capped, double child topknots, open-topped black jie headcloth, paired jade guides with precious ornament of pearl and kingfisher feather, two tassels. Worn when visiting the ancestral temple and returning, New Year's Day and first-day-of-month audience, and libation sacrifice.
69
始後周采用周禮，皇太子朝賀，皆袞冕九章服。 開皇初，自非助祭，皆冠遠遊冠。 至此，牛弘奏云：「皇太子冬正大朝，請服袞冕。」 帝問給事郎許善心曰：「太子朝謁，著遠遊冠，有何典故？」 對曰：「晉令皇太子給五時朝服、遠遊冠。 至宋泰始六年，更議儀注，儀曹郎丘仲起議：『案周禮，公自袞冕已下，至卿大夫之玄冕，皆其朝聘之服也。 伏尋古之公侯，尚得服袞，以入朝見，況皇太子儲副之尊，謂宜式遵盛典，服袞朝賀。』 兼左丞陸澄議：『服冕以朝，實著經典，自秦除六冕之制，後漢始備古章。 魏、晉以來，非祀宗朝，不欲令臣下服於袞冕，位為公者，必加侍官，故太子入朝，因亦不著。 但承天作副，禮絕羣后，宜遵前王之令典，革近代之陋制，皇太子朝，請服冕。』 自宋以下，始定此儀。 至梁簡文之為太子，嫌於上逼，還冠遠遊，下及於陳，皆依此法。 後周之時，亦言服袞入朝。 至于開皇，復遵魏、晉故事。 臣謂袞冕之服，章玉雖差，一日而觀，頗欲相類。 臣子之道，義無上逼。 故晉武帝太始三年，詔太宰安平王孚著侍內之服，四年，又賜趙、燕、樂安王等散騎常侍之服。 自斯以後，台鼎貴臣，並加貂璫武弁，故皇太子遂著遠遊，謙不逼尊，於理為允。」 帝曰：「善。」 竟用開皇舊式。
Initially Later Zhou adopted the Rites of Zhou; the crown prince at court congratulations all wore guan mián with nine chapters. At the beginning of Kaihuang, except when assisting at sacrifice, all wore the far-wandering cap. Reaching this point, Niu Hong memorialized: "At the crown prince's midwinter great audience, I request wearing guan mián. The emperor asked Attendant Gentleman Xu Shansin: "The crown prince at court audience wearing the far-wandering cap—what is the ancient precedent?" He replied: "Jin regulations gave the crown prince five-season court dress and far-wandering cap. Reaching the sixth year of Taishi under Song, ritual regulations were reconsidered; Ritual Section Gentleman Qiu Zhongqi deliberated: 'Examining the Rites of Zhou, from guan mián downward to the black mián of ministers and grand masters—all were court and visiting dress. Searching antiquity, ancient dukes and marquises could still wear guan to enter court for audience—how much more the crown prince as heir presumptive; it is fitting to follow the great precedent and wear guan at court congratulations. Also Left Assistant Director Lu Cheng deliberated: 'Wearing mián at court is indeed established in the classics; since Qin abolished the six mián system, Later Han first restored ancient regulations. Since Wei and Jin, except when sacrificing at the ancestral temple, they did not wish to let ministers wear guan mián; those of ducal rank necessarily added attendant office, so the crown prince entering court likewise did not wear it. But as heir to Heaven, ritual surpasses all feudal lords—it is fitting to follow former kings' commands and regulations, reform recent generations' crude institutions; at crown prince's court audience, I request wearing mián. From Song downward, this ritual was first fixed. Reaching Emperor Jianwen as crown prince, finding it too close to his father's rank, he again wore far-wandering cap; down to Chen, all followed this method. In Later Zhou times, they also said to wear guan when entering court. Reaching Kaihuang, they again followed Wei and Jin precedent. Your subject considers that guan mián dress, though emblems and jade differ, viewed in one day they would seem quite similar. The way of subject and son—in principle there is no surpassing the superior. Thus in the third year of Taishi under Emperor Wu of Jin, an edict ordered Grand Preceptor Prince of Peace Wang Fu to wear attendant inner dress; in the fourth year, Zhao, Yan, and Prince of Le'an were also bestowed irregular attendant dress. From then on, high ministers of the Secretariat all added sable earring military caps; thus the crown prince wore far-wandering cap, humble and not surpassing the superior—in principle this is acceptable. The emperor said: "Good." In the end the Kaihuang old form was used.
70
遠遊三梁冠，從省服，絳紗單衣，革帶，金鉤䚢，假帶，方心，佩一隻，紛長六尺四寸，闊二寸四分，色同於綬。 金縷鞶囊，白韈，烏皮履，金飾。 五日常朝則服之。
Far-wandering three-ridge cap, reduced dress, crimson gauze single garment, leather belt, gold hook plaque, imitation sash, square heart, one pendant, sash-fringe six chi four cun long and two cun four fen wide, same color as the sash. Gold-thread purse, white socks, black leather shoes, with gold ornament. Worn for the five-day regular court audience.
71
鹿皮弁，九琪，服絳羅襦，白羅裙，革帶，履，韈，佩，紛，如從省服。 在宮聽政則服之。
Deerskin biàn, nine qi, crimson gauze jacket, white gauze skirt, leather belt, shoes, socks, pendants, and sash-fringe, like reduced dress. Worn when holding court within the palace.
72
平巾，黑幘，玉冠枝，金花飾，犀簪導，紫羅褶，南布袴，玉梁帶，長靿靴。 侍從田狩則服之。
Flat zé headcloth, black zé headcloth, jade cap branches, gold flower ornament, rhinoceros hairpin guide, purple gauze jacket, southern cloth trousers, jade-beam belt, and long-shaft boots. Worn when attending at field hunts.
73
白帢，素單衣，烏衣履。 為宮臣舉哀弔喪則服之。
White kerchief, plain single garment, black shoes. Worn when palace officials expressed mourning and attended funerals.
74
諸王三公已下，為服之制，袞冕九章服。 三公攝祭及諸王初受冊、贄、入朝、助祭、親迎，則服之。 綬各依其色。
For all princes, Three Dukes and below, the prescribed dress form was guan mián with nine chapters. The Three Dukes when acting as substitute sacrificers and all princes when first receiving investiture, bearing tribute gifts, entering court, assisting at sacrifice, and in the bridegroom's welcome wore it. Sashes each followed their respective colors.
75
鷩冕，案禮圖：「王祭先公及卿之服。」 天子九旒，用玉二百一十六。 侯伯服以助祭，七旒，用玉八十。 新制依此。 服七章。 三品及公侯助祭則服之。
Bi mián: examining the ritual illustrations: "The king's dress for sacrificing to former dukes and ministers. The Son of Heaven nine tassels, using two hundred sixteen jade beads. Marquises and earls wore it when assisting at sacrifice, seven tassels, using eighty jade beads. The new form followed this. Seven emblems on the robe. Third rank and marquises and earls wore it when assisting at sacrifice.
76
毳冕，案禮圖：「王祀四望山川之服。」 天子七旒，用玉百六十八。 子男服以助祭，五旒，用玉五十。 新制依此。 服五章。 四品及伯助祭則服之。
Cui mián: examining the ritual illustrations: "The king's dress for sacrificing to the four directional mountains and rivers. The Son of Heaven seven tassels, using one hundred sixty-eight jade beads. Viscounts and barons wore it when assisting at sacrifice, five tassels, using fifty jade beads. The new form followed this. Five emblems on the robe. Fourth rank and earls wore it when assisting at sacrifice.
77
𧝉冕，案禮圖：「王者祭社稷五祀之服。」 天子五旒，用玉百二十。 孤卿服以助祭，四旒，用玉三十二。 新制依此。 服三章。 五品及子男助祭則服之。
Yi mián: examining the ritual illustrations: "The king's dress for sacrificing at the altars of soil and grain and the five sacrifices. The Son of Heaven five tassels, using one hundred twenty jade beads. Solitary ministers wore it when assisting at sacrifice, four tassels, using thirty-two jade beads. The new form followed this. Three emblems on the robe. Fifth rank and viscounts and barons wore it when assisting at sacrifice.
78
玄冕，案禮圖：「王祭羣小祀及視朝服。」 天子四旒，用玉三十二。 諸侯服以祭其宗廟，三旒，用玉十八。 新制依此。 服三章。 通給庶姓。 一品已下，五品已上，自製于家，祭其私廟。 三品省衣粉米，加三重； 裳黼黻，加二重。 四品減黼一重，五品減黻一重。 禮自玄冕以上，加旒一等，天子祭祀，節級服之。
Black mián: examining the ritual illustrations: "The king's dress for sacrificing at all minor rites and holding court. The Son of Heaven four tassels, using thirty-two jade beads. Feudal lords wore it when sacrificing at their ancestral temples, three tassels, using eighteen jade beads. The new form followed this. Three emblems on the robe. Generally given to common surnames. First rank and below, fifth rank and above, made it at home themselves to sacrifice at their private temples. Third rank reduced grain emblem on the upper garment, adding three repetitions; on the skirt fu and fe, adding two repetitions. Fourth rank reduced one fu repetition, fifth rank reduced one fe repetition. In ritual from black mián upward, one grade of tassels was added; the Son of Heaven at sacrifice wore them by gradation.
79
開皇以來，天子唯用袞冕，自鷩之下，不施於尊，具依前式。 而六等之冕，皆有黈纊，黃緜為之，其大如橘。 自皇太子以下，三犀導，青纓爵弁。 案董巴志：「同於爵形，一名冕，有收持筓，所謂夏收、殷冔者也。」 祠天地、五郊、明堂，雲翹舞人服之。 禮云：「朱干玉戚，冕而舞大夏。」 此之謂也。 禮圖云：「士助君祭服之，色如爵頭，無旒有纊。」 新制依此。 角為簪導，衣青，裳縓，並縵，無章。 六品已下，皆通服之。
Since Kaihuang, the Son of Heaven used only guan mián; from bi mián downward, not applied to the superior—all fully followed the previous form. Yet the six grades of mián all had yellow and blue ear-plugs, made of yellow silk, as large as an orange. From the crown prince downward, three rhinoceros guides, green chin strap jue biàn. Examining Dong Ba's monograph: "Same as jue form, also called mián, with rear band holding hairpin—what are called Xia shou and Yin mian. When sacrificing to Heaven and Earth, five suburban altars, and Bright Hall, the Cloud-Rising dancers wore it. The Rites say: "With vermilion shield and jade axe, mián-capped to dance the Great Xia. This is what is meant. The ritual illustrations say: "Grand masters assisting the ruler at sacrifice wore it, color like jue head, no tassels but with ear-plugs. The new form followed this. Horn as hairpin guide, green upper garment, vermilion skirt, all plain, without emblems. Sixth rank and below all generally wore it.
80
遠遊冠服，王所服也。 衣裳內單。 如皇太子，佩山玄玉，金章龜鈕。 宋孝建故事亦謂之璽，今文曰「印」。 又並歸於官府，身不自佩，例以銅易之。 大綬四采，小綬同色，施二玉環，玉具劍，烏皮舄，舄加金飾。 唯帝子宗室封國王者服之。
Far-wandering cap dress—what princes wore. Upper garment, skirt, and inner garment. Like the crown prince, mountain-dark jade pendants, gold seal with turtle knob. The Song Xiaojian precedent also called it a seal; now the text reads "stamp." Also all returned to the government offices, not worn on the person—in precedent replaced with copper. Great sash four colors, small sash same color, two jade rings set between, jade-mounted sword, black leather shoes, shoes with gold ornament. Only imperial sons, imperial clan members, and enfeoffed princes wore it.
81
進賢冠，案漢官云：「平帝元始五年，令公卿列侯冠三梁，二千石兩梁，千石以下一梁。」 梁別貴賤，自漢始也。 董巴釋曰：「如緇布冠，文儒之服也。」 前高七寸而却，後高三寸而立。 王莽之時，以幘承之。 新制依此。 內外文官通服之。 三品已上三梁，五品已上兩梁，九品已上一梁，用明尊卑之等也。 其朝服，亦名具服。 絳紗單衣，白紗內單，玄領、裾、襈、袖，革帶，金鉤䚢，假帶，曲領方心，絳紗蔽膝，白韈，烏皮舄。 雙佩、綬，如遠遊之色。 自一品已下，五品已上，衣服盡同，而綬依其品。 陪祭朝饗拜表，凡大事皆服之。 六品、七品，綬。 八品、九品，去白筆、內單，而用履代舄。 其五品已上，一品已下，又有公服，亦名從省服。 並烏皮履，去曲領、內單、白筆、蔽膝。 開皇故事，亦去鞶囊、佩、綬。 何稠請去大綬，而偏垂一小綬，綴於獸頭鞶囊，獨一隻佩，正當於後。 詔從之。 一品已下，五品已上，同。
Advance-the-worthy cap: examining Han Offices: "In the fifth year of Yuanshi under Emperor Ping, an order that dukes, ministers, and feudal lords' caps had three ridges, two thousand-bushel officials two ridges, one thousand bushels and below one ridge. Ridges distinguished noble and base—this began from Han. Dong Ba explained: "Like the dark cloth cap, dress of literary scholars. Seven cun high in front slanting back, three cun high behind standing upright. In Wang Mang's time, zé headcloth was used to support it. The new form followed this. Civil officials inside and outside all generally wore it. Third rank and above three ridges, fifth rank and above two ridges, ninth rank and above one ridge—to clarify gradations of honor. Its court dress was also called full dress. Crimson gauze single garment, white gauze inner garment, black collar, hem, cuff border, and sleeves, leather belt, gold hook plaque, imitation sash, curved collar and square heart, crimson gauze knee cover, white socks, black leather shoes. Paired pendants and sash, like far-wandering colors. From first rank downward, fifth rank and above, garments all the same, but sashes followed their rank. Assisting at sacrifice, court feasts, presenting memorials—all major occasions wore it. Sixth and seventh rank: sash. Eighth and ninth rank: removed white brush and inner garment, using shoes instead of ceremonial shoes. Fifth rank and above, first rank and below, also had official dress, also called reduced dress. All black leather shoes, removing curved collar, inner garment, white brush, and knee cover. Kaihuang precedent also removed purse, pendants, and sash. He Chou requested removing the great sash, and hanging one small sash to one side, attached to the beast-head purse, one pendant only, directly at the rear. An edict approved it. First rank and below, fifth rank and above—the same.
82
高山冠，案董巴志云：「一曰側注，謁者僕射之所服也。」 胡伯始以為齊王冠，秦滅齊，以賜謁者。 傅子曰：「魏明帝以高山冠似通天，乃毀變其形，除去卷筩，令如介幘。 幘上加物，以象山峯，行人使者，通皆服之。」 新制參用其事，形如進賢，於冠前加三峯，以象魏制。 謁者大夫已下服之。 梁依其品。
High Mountain cap: examining Dong Ba's monograph: "Also called side-pour, what petitioners' vice directors wore. Hu Boshi considered it the Qi king's cap; Qin destroyed Qi and bestowed it on petitioners. Fu Xian says: "Emperor Ming of Wei, because the High Mountain cap resembled tongtian, destroyed and changed its form, removing the rolled tube, making it like jie zé headcloth. On the zé headcloth an object was added to represent mountain peaks—travelers and envoys all generally wore it. The new form followed this matter, form like advance-the-worthy, three peaks added before the cap to represent Wei form. Petitioner grand masters and below wore it. Liang followed their rank.
83
獬豸冠，案禮圖曰：「法冠也，一曰柱後惠文。」 如淳注漢官曰：「惠，蟬也，細如蟬翼。」 今御史服之。 禮圖又曰：「獬豸冠，高五寸，秦制也。 法官服之。」 董巴志曰：「獬豸，神羊也。」 蔡邕云：「如麟，一角。」 應劭曰：「古有此獸，主觸不直，故執憲者，為冠以象之。 秦滅楚，以其冠賜御史。」 此即是也。 開皇中，御史戴却非冠，而無此色。 新制又以此而代却非。 御史大夫以金，治書侍御史以犀，侍御史已下，用羚羊角，獨御史、司隸服之。
Xiezhi cap: examining the ritual illustrations: "Law cap, also called pillar-rear Huìwén. Ru Chun's commentary on Han Offices: "Huì means cicada, fine as cicada wings." Now censors wore it. The ritual illustrations also say: "Xiezhi cap, five cun high, Qin form. Judicial officials wore it. Dong Ba's monograph says: "Xiezhi is the divine goat." Cai Yong says: "Like a qilin, one horn." Ying Shao says: "In antiquity there was this beast, master of detecting wrong; thus law-enforcers made caps to represent it. Qin destroyed Chu and bestowed this cap on censors." This is it. In Kaihuang, censors wore the Repel-Wrong cap, without this form. The new form again used this to replace Repel-Wrong. Censor-in-Chief used gold, Palace Secretary Censor used rhinoceros, Attendant Censor and below used antelope horn—only censors and the Director of Retainers wore it.
84
巾，案方言云：「巾，趙、魏間通謂之承露。」 郭林宗傳曰：「林宗嘗行遇雨，巾沾角折。」 又袁紹戰敗，幅巾渡河。 此則野人及軍旅服也。 制有二等。 今高人道士所著，是林宗折角； 庶人農夫常服，是袁紹幅巾。 故事，用全幅皁而向後襆髮，俗人謂之襆頭。 自周武帝裁為四腳，今通於貴賤矣。
Kerchief: examining the Dialects: "Kerchief—in Zhao and Wei regions generally called chenglu. In idiomatic rendering: " The Biography of Guo Linzong says: "Linzong once traveling encountered rain; his kerchief corner was soaked and bent." In idiomatic rendering: " Also Yuan Shao after defeat crossed a river in a wrapped kerchief." This was dress of wild men and military camps, in the established manner. The form had two grades, in the established manner. In idiomatic rendering: what lofty Daoist masters now wear is Linzong bent corner; what commoners and farmers ordinarily wear is Yuan Shao wrapped kerchief, in the established manner. By precedent, full-width black cloth wrapped the hair backward—common people call it futou, in the established manner. Since Emperor Wu of Zhou cut it to four legs, now it is universal among noble and base, in the established manner.
85
簪導，案釋名云：「簪，建也，所以建冠於髮也。 一曰筓。 筓，係也，所以拘冠使不墜也。 導所以導擽鬢髮，使入巾幘之裏也。」 今依周禮，天子以玉筓，而導亦如之。 又史記曰：「平原君誇楚，為玳瑁簪。」 班固與弟書云：「今遺仲升以黑犀簪。」 士燮集云：「遣功曹史貢皇太子通天犀導。」 故知天子獨得用玉，降此通用玳瑁及犀。 今並準是，唯弁用白牙筓導焉。
Hairpin and guide: examining Explaining Names: "Hairpin, to establish, by which the cap is established on the hair, in the established manner. Also called ji. Ji, to bind, by which the cap is bound so it does not fall, in the established manner. Guide is by which to comb and arrange temple hair, making it enter within the kerchief and zé headcloth, in the established manner." Now following the Rites of Zhou, the Son of Heaven used jade hairpin, and the guide likewise, in the established manner. Also, the Records of the Grand Historian says: "Lord Pingyuan boasting before Chu, used tortoiseshell hairpin." Ban Gu letter to his brother: "Now I send Zhongsheng a black rhinoceros hairpin, in the established manner." Shi Xie collected works: "Sent the merit officer to present the crown prince a tongtian rhinoceros guide, in the established manner." Thus only the Son of Heaven could use jade; below that tortoiseshell and rhinoceros were generally used, in the established manner. At present, all follow this; only biàn used white ivory hairpin and guide.
86
貂蟬，案漢官：「侍內金蟬左貂，金取剛固，蟬取高潔也。」 董巴志曰：「內常侍，右貂金璫，銀附蟬，內書令亦同此。」 今宦者去貂，內史令金蟬右貂，納言金蟬左貂。 開皇時，加散騎常侍在門下者，皆有貂蟬，至是罷之。 唯加常侍聘外國者，特給貂蟬，還則輸納於內省。
Sable and cicada: examining Han Offices: "Inner attendants gold cicada left sable—gold for firmness, cicada for lofty purity, in the established manner." Dong Ba monograph: "Inner regular attendants, right sable gold earring, silver attached cicada; Inner Secretariat Director likewise, in the established manner." Now eunuchs removed sable; Inner Secretariat Director gold cicada right sable, Chief Censor gold cicada left sable, in the established manner. In Kaihuang, irregular attendant in Gate Department all had sable and cicada—to this they were abolished, in the established manner. Only the irregular attendants sent to foreign states were specially given sable and cicada; on return turned in to Inner Secretariat.
87
白筆，案徐氏雜注云：「古者貴賤皆執笏，有事則書之，故常簪筆。 今之白筆，是遺象也。」 魏略曰：「明帝時大會而史簪筆。」 今文官七品已上，通毦之。 武職雖貴，皆不毦也。
White brush: examining Master Xu: "In antiquity noble and base all held hu; when business they wrote, so always wore brush in hair, in the established manner. Today white brush is a remnant image, in the established manner." Brief Account of Wei: "At Emperor Ming great assembly the scribe wore brush in hair, in the established manner." Now civil officials seventh rank and above all generally wore it, in the established manner. Military posts though honored all did not wear it, in the established manner.
88
纓，案儀禮曰：「天子朱纓，諸侯丹組纓。」 今冕，天子已下皆朱纓。 又尉繚子曰：「天子玄纓，諸侯素纓。」 別尊卑也。 今不用素，並從冠色焉。
Chin strap: examining Ceremonies: "Son of Heaven vermilion chin strap, feudal lords cinnabar cord chin strap, in the established manner." Now for mián, from Son of Heaven downward all vermilion chin strap, in the established manner. Also, Wei Liaozi: "Son of Heaven black chin strap, feudal lords plain chin strap." To distinguish noble and base, in the established manner. At present, plain not used; all follow cap color.
89
佩，案禮，天子佩白玉。 董巴、司馬彪云：「君臣佩玉，尊卑有序，所以章德也。」 今參用杜夔之法，天子白玉，太子瑜玉，王山玄玉。 自公已下，皆水蒼玉。
Pendants: examining Rites, Son of Heaven wore white jade, in the established manner. Dong Ba and Sima Biao: "Ruler and ministers wearing jade, noble and base in order—to display virtue, in the established manner." Now following Du Kui: Son of Heaven white jade, crown prince fine jade, princes mountain-dark jade, in the established manner. Starting from dukes downward, all water-azure jade.
90
綬，案禮：「天子玄組綬，侯伯朱組綬，大夫純組綬，世子綦組綬。」 漢官云：「蕭何為相國，佩綠綬，公侯紫，卿二千石青，令長千石黑。」 今大抵準此。 天子以雙綬，六采，玄黃赤白縹綠，純玄質，長二丈四尺，五百首，闊一尺； 雙小綬，長二尺六寸，色同大綬，而首半之，間施四玉環。 開皇用三，今加一。 皇太子，朱雙綬，四采，赤白縹紺，純朱質，長一丈八尺，三百二十首，闊九寸； 雙小綬，長一尺六寸，色同大綬，而首半之，間施三玉環。 開皇用二，今加一。 三公，綠綟綬，四采，綠黃縹紫，純綠質，黃文織之，長一丈八尺，二百四十首，闊九寸，與親王綬，俱施二玉環。 諸王，纁朱綬，四采，赤黃縹紺，純朱質，纁文織之，長一丈八尺，二百四十首，闊九寸。 公，玄朱綬，四采，赤縹玄紺，純朱質，玄文織之，長一丈八尺，二百四十首，闊九寸。 侯、伯，青朱綬，四采，青赤白縹，純朱質，青文織，長一丈六尺，百八十首，闊八寸。 子、男，素朱綬，三采，青赤白，純朱質，素文織之，長一丈四尺，百四十首，闊七寸。 二品已上，纁紫綬，四采，纁紫赤黃，純紫質，纁文織之，長一丈四尺，百四十首，闊八寸。 三品，紺紫綬，四采，紫紺黃縹，純紫質，紺文織之，長一丈六尺，百八十首，闊八寸。 四品，青綬，三采，青白紅，純青質，長一丈四尺，百四十首，闊七寸。 五品，墨綬，二采，青紺，純紺質，長一丈二尺，百二十首，闊六寸。 自王公已下，皆有小綬二枚，色同大綬，而首半之。 正、從一品，施二玉環。 凡有綬者，皆有紛，並長六尺四寸，闊二寸四分，隨於綬色。
Sash: examining Rites: "Son of Heaven black cord sash, marquises and earls vermilion cord sash, grand masters plain cord sash, heir dark cord sash, in the established manner." Han Offices: "Xiao He as Chancellor wore green sash, dukes and marquises purple, ministers two thousand bushels green, magistrates one thousand bushels black, in the established manner." Now largely following this, in the established manner. In idiomatic rendering: son of Heaven paired sashes, six colors, black yellow red white light blue green, pure black substance, two zhang four chi, five hundred tassels, one chi wide; paired small sashes two chi six cun, same color as great sash but half tassels, four jade rings between, in the established manner. Kaihuang used three; now one added, in the established manner. In idiomatic rendering: crown prince vermilion paired sashes, four colors red white light blue dark blue, pure vermilion, one zhang eight chi, three hundred twenty tassels, nine cun wide; paired small sashes one chi six cun, same color half tassels, three jade rings between, in the established manner. Kaihuang used two; now one added, in the established manner. Three Dukes green-black sash four colors green yellow light blue purple, pure green, yellow woven, one zhang eight chi, two hundred forty tassels, nine cun—with princes sash both two jade rings, in the established manner. All of the princes crimson-vermilion sash four colors red yellow light blue dark blue, pure vermilion, crimson woven, one zhang eight chi, two hundred forty tassels, nine cun. Dukes black-vermilion sash four colors red light blue black dark blue, pure vermilion, black woven, one zhang eight chi, two hundred forty tassels, nine cun, in the established manner. Marquises and earls green-vermilion sash four colors green red white light blue, pure vermilion, green woven, one zhang six chi, one hundred eighty tassels, eight cun, in the established manner. Viscounts and barons plain-vermilion sash three colors green red white, pure vermilion, plain woven, one zhang four chi, one hundred forty tassels, seven cun, in the established manner. Second rank and above crimson-purple sash four colors crimson purple red yellow, pure purple, crimson woven, one zhang four chi, one hundred forty tassels, eight cun, in the established manner. Third rank dark blue-purple sash four colors purple dark blue yellow light blue, pure purple, dark blue woven, one zhang six chi, one hundred eighty tassels, eight cun, in the established manner. Fourth rank green sash three colors green white red, pure green, one zhang four chi, one hundred forty tassels, seven cun, in the established manner. Fifth rank black sash two colors green dark blue, pure dark blue, one zhang two chi, one hundred twenty tassels, six cun, in the established manner. Starting from princes and dukes downward all had two small sashes, same color as great sash but half tassels. Regular and honorary first rank had two jade rings between, in the established manner. All of the who had sashes also had sash-fringes six chi four cun long and two cun four fen wide, following sash color.
91
鞶囊，案禮：「男鞶革，女鞶絲。」 東觀書：「詔賜鄧遵獸頭鞶囊一枚。」 班固與弟書：「遺仲升獸頭旁囊，金錯鉤也。」 古佩印皆貯懸之，故有囊稱。 或帶於旁，故班氏謂為旁囊，綬印鈕也。 今雖不佩印，猶存古制，有佩綬者，通得佩之。 無佩則不。 今採梁、陳、東齊制，品極尊者，以金織成，二品以上服之。 次以銀織成，三品已上服之。 下以綖織成，五品已上服之。 分為三等。
Purse: examining Rites: "Men purse leather, women purse silk, in the established manner." Eastern View Records: "Edict bestowed on Deng Zun one beast-head purse, in the established manner." Ban Gu letter to brother: "Sent Zhongsheng beast-head side purse, gold-inlaid hook, in the established manner." In antiquity worn seals stored and hung—thus the name purse, in the established manner. Sometimes worn at side—thus Ban side purse, sash seal knob, in the established manner. At present, though seals not worn, ancient form preserved; those with pendant sashes generally could wear it. Without pendants, not permitted, in the established manner. At present, adopting Liang, Chen, Eastern Qi forms, most honored ranks gold woven—second rank and above wore it. Next came the silver woven—third rank and above wore it. Below colored thread woven—fifth rank and above wore it, in the established manner. Divided into three grades, in the established manner.
92
革帶，案禮「博二寸」。 禮圖曰：「璫綴於革帶。」 阮諶以為有章印則於革帶佩之。 東觀記：「楊賜拜太常，詔賜自所著革帶。」 故知形制尊卑不別。 今博三寸半，加金縷䚢，螳蜋鉤，以相拘帶。 自大裘至于小朝服，皆用之。
In idiomatic rendering: leather belt: examining Rites "two cun wide." Ritual illustrations: "Earring hung on leather belt, in the established manner." Ruan Chen: with patterned seal worn on leather belt, in the established manner. Eastern View Records: "Yang Ci appointed Grand Director of Ceremonials, edict bestowed leather belt he wore, in the established manner." Thus form and substance did not distinguish noble and base, in the established manner. At present, three cun half wide, adding gold-thread plaque, mantis hook, to fasten belt. Starting from great fur robe to small court dress, all used it.
93
劍，案漢自天子至于百官，無不佩刀。 蔡謨議云：「大臣優禮，皆劍履上殿。 非侍臣，解之。」 蓋防刃也。 近代以木，未詳所起。 東齊著令，謂為象劍，言象於劍。 周武帝時，百官燕會，並帶刀升座。 至開皇初，因襲舊式，朝服登殿，亦不解焉。 十二年，因蔡徵上事，始制凡朝會應登殿坐者，劍履俱脫。 其不坐者，勑召奏事及須升殿，亦就席解劍，乃登。 納言、黃門、內史令、侍郎、舍人，既夾侍之官，則不脫。 其劍皆真刃，非假。 既合舊典，弘制依定。 又準晉咸康元年定令故事，自天子已下，皆衣冠帶劍。 今天子則玉具火珠鏢首，餘皆玉鏢首。 唯侍臣帶劍上殿，自王公已下，非殊禮引升殿，皆就席解而後升。 六品以下，無佩綬者，皆不帶。
Sword: examining Han, from Son of Heaven to all officials none did not wear sword, in the established manner. Cai Mo deliberation: "Great ministers honored treatment, all sword and shoes ascending hall, in the established manner. Non-attendant ministers removed them, in the established manner." Likely guard against blades, in the established manner. Recent times used wood—origin unclear, in the established manner. Eastern Qi regulations called image-sword, meaning image of sword, in the established manner. Emperor Wu of Zhou time, all officials at banquets wore sword ascending seat, in the established manner. Reaching Kaihuang beginning, inheriting old form, court dress ascending hall also did not remove, in the established manner. Twelfth year, because Cai Zheng memorial, first regulated all at court assembly ascending hall and sitting removed sword and shoes together, in the established manner. Those not sitting, when edict-summoned and needing to ascend hall, at seat removed sword then ascended, in the established manner. Chief Censor, Yellow Gate, Inner Secretariat Director, Attendant Gentleman, Gentleman-in-Attendant—as flanking attendants, did not remove, in the established manner. Their swords all real blades, not imitation, in the established manner. Since accorded with ancient canon, Hong form followed and fixed, in the established manner. Also, following Jin Xiankang first year regulation, from Son of Heaven downward all caps robes and sword. At present, Son of Heaven jade-mounted fire-pearl pommel; rest all jade pommel. Only the attendant ministers wore sword ascending hall; from princes downward unless special ritual, all at seat removed then ascended. Sixth rank and below without pendant sash all did not wear it, in the established manner.
94
曲領，案釋名，在單衣內襟領上，橫以雍頸。 七品已上有內單者則服之，從省服及八品已下皆無。
Curved collar: examining Explaining Names, on inner breast collar of single garment, horizontally to enclose neck, in the established manner. Seventh rank and above with inner garment wore it; reduced dress and eighth rank and below lacked it, in the established manner.
95
珽，案禮：「天子搢珽，方正於天下也。」 又五經異義：「天子笏曰珽，珽直無所屈也。」 今制準此，長尺二寸，方而不折。 以球玉為之。
Ting: examining Rites: "Son of Heaven inserts ting, square and upright under Heaven, in the established manner." Also Divergent Meaning of Five Classics: "Son of Heaven hu called ting—ting straight, nowhere bent, in the established manner." Present form follows this, one chi two cun long, square unbent, in the established manner. Made of spherical jade, in the established manner.
96
笏，案禮：「諸侯以象，大夫魚須文竹，士以竹，本象可也。」 凡有指畫於君前，受命書於笏，笏畢用也。 五經要義曰：「所以記事，防忽忘。」 禮圖云：「度二尺有六寸，中博二寸，其殺六分去一。」 晉、宋以來，謂之手板，此乃不經，今還謂之笏，以法古名。 自西魏以降，五品已上，通用象牙，六品已下，兼用竹木。
Hu: examining Rites: "Feudal lords ivory, grand masters fish-whisker patterned bamboo, gentlemen bamboo—originally ivory acceptable, in the established manner." When pointing out before the ruler, receiving command wrote on hu—when hu finished, used, in the established manner. Essential Meaning of Five Classics: "To record affairs, guard against sudden forgetting, in the established manner." Ritual illustrations: "Measure two chi six cun, middle wide two cun, taper six parts minus one, in the established manner." Since Jin and Song called it hand board—this uncanonical; now again called hu, to follow ancient name, in the established manner. Since Western Wei downward, fifth rank and above generally ivory; sixth rank and below also bamboo and wood, in the established manner.
97
履、舄，案圖云：「複下曰舄，單下曰履。 夏葛冬皮。」 近代或以重皮，而不加木，失於乾腊之義。 今取乾腊之理，以木重底。 冕服者色赤，冕衣者色烏，履同烏色。 諸非侍臣，皆脫而升殿。 凡舄，唯冕服及具服著之，履則諸服皆用。 唯褶服以靴。 靴，胡履也，取便於事，施於戎服。
Shoes and ceremonial shoes: examining illustrations: "Double sole called ceremonial shoes, single sole called shoes, in the established manner. Summer hemp winter leather, in the established manner." Recent times sometimes heavy leather without wood—losing dried-cured meaning, in the established manner. At present, taking dried-cured principle, wood heavy sole. Mián dress color red, mián upper garment color black, shoes same black color, in the established manner. All of the non-attendant ministers all removed then ascended hall. For all ceremonial shoes, only mián dress and full dress wore them; shoes all dress types used, in the established manner. Only the battle dress used boots. Boots, barbarian shoes, taken for convenience in affairs, applied to military dress, in the established manner.
98
諸建華、鵕䴊、鶡冠、委貌、長冠、樊噲、却敵、巧士、術氏、却非等，前代所有，皆不採用。
All of the Jianhua, pufu, heguan, weimao, long cap, Fan Kuai, repel-enemy, clever warrior, Shu clan, repel-wrong and the like from former dynasties—all not adopted.
99
皇后服四等，有褘衣、鞠衣、青服、朱服。
Empress dress four grades: hui robe, ju robe, green dress, vermilion dress, in the established manner.
100
褘衣，深青質，織成領袖，文以翬翟，五采重行，十二等。 首飾花十二鈿，小花毦十二樹，并兩博鬢。 素紗內單，黼領，羅縠褾、襈，色皆以朱。 蔽膝隨裳色，以緅為緣，用翟三章。 大帶隨衣裳，飾以朱綠之錦，青緣。 革帶，青韈、舄，舄以金飾。 白玉佩，玄組，綬，章采尺寸同於乘輿。 祭及朝會，凡大事皆服之。
Hui robe, deep green substance, woven collar and sleeves, pattern of pheasant-di, five colors repeated rows, twelve grades, in the established manner. Head ornament twelve flower studs, small flower yak twelve trees, both with two broad side-locks, in the established manner. Plain gauze inner garment, fu-pattern collar, gauze cuffs and border, colors all vermilion, in the established manner. Knee cover followed skirt color, dark purple as border, pheasant three emblems, in the established manner. Great sash followed upper garment and skirt, ornamented with vermilion-green brocade, green border, in the established manner. Leather belt, green socks and shoes, shoes with gold ornament, in the established manner. White jade pendants, black cords, sash, emblem colors and dimensions same as imperial carriage, in the established manner. Sacrifice and court assembly, all major occasions wore it, in the established manner.
101
鞠衣，黃羅為質，織成領袖，小花十二樹。 蔽膝，革帶及舄，隨衣色。 餘準褘衣，親蠶服也。
Ju robe, yellow gauze substance, woven collar and sleeves, small flower twelve trees, in the established manner. Knee cover, leather belt and shoes followed robe color, in the established manner. Rest followed hui robe—dress for personally tending silkworms, in the established manner.
102
青服，去花、大帶及佩綬，金飾履。 禮見天子則服之。
Green dress, without flower ornament, great sash and pendant sash, gold-ornament shoes, in the established manner. This was worn when paying respects to Son of Heaven according to ritual.
103
朱服，制如青服。 宴見賓客則服之。
Vermilion dress, form like green dress, in the established manner. This was worn when banqueting and receiving guests.
104
有金璽，盤螭鈕，文曰「皇后之璽」。 冬正大朝，則并黃琮，各以笥貯，進於座隅。
In idiomatic rendering: there was gold seal, coiled dragon knob, text reading "Empress Seal." Midwinter New Year great audience, also yellow jade tablet, each stored in case, presented at seat corner, in the established manner.
105
皇太后服，同於后服。 而貴妃以下，並亦給印。
Empress dowager dress same as empress dress, in the established manner. Noble Consort and below all also given seals, in the established manner.
106
貴妃、德妃、淑妃，是為三妃。 服褕翟之衣，首飾花九鈿，并二博鬢。 金章龜鈕，文從其職。 紫綬，一百二十首，長一丈七尺，金縷織成獸頭鞶囊，佩于闐玉。
Noble Consort, Virtuous Consort, and Pure Consort—these were the Three Consorts, in the established manner. Wore yu di robe, head ornament nine flower studs, both with two broad side-locks, in the established manner. Gold seal turtle knob, text followed their office, in the established manner. Purple sash one hundred twenty tassels, one zhang seven chi long, gold-thread woven beast-head purse, Khotan jade pendants, in the established manner.
107
順儀、順容、順華、修儀、修容、修華、充儀、充容、充華，是為九嬪。 服闕翟之衣，首飾花八鈿，并二博鬢。 金章龜鈕，文從其職。 紫綬，一百首，長一丈七尺，金縷織成獸頭鞶囊，佩采瓄玉。
Shunyi, Shunrong, Shunhua, Xiuyi, Xiurong, Xiuhua, Chongyi, Chongrong, Chonghua—these were the Nine Imperial Consorts, in the established manner. Wore que di robe, head ornament eight flower studs, both with two broad side-locks, in the established manner. Gold seal turtle knob, text followed their office, in the established manner. Purple sash one hundred tassels, one zhang seven chi long, gold-thread woven beast-head purse, colored fine jade pendants, in the established manner.
108
婕妤，銀縷織成獸頭鞶囊，首飾花七鈿。 他如嬪服。
Lady of Handsome Fairness, silver-thread woven beast-head purse, head ornament seven flower studs, in the established manner. The rest like imperial consort dress, in the established manner.
109
美人、才人，服鞠衣，首飾花六鈿，并二博鬢。 銀印珪鈕，文從其職。 青綬，八十首，長一丈六尺。 綵縷織成獸爪鞶囊，佩水蒼玉。
Beautiful Lady and Talented Lady wore ju robe, head ornament six flower studs, both with two broad side-locks, in the established manner. Silver seal gui knob, text followed their office, in the established manner. Green sash eighty tassels, one zhang six chi long, in the established manner. Colored thread woven beast-claw purse, water-azure jade pendants, in the established manner.
110
寶林，服展衣，首飾花五鈿，并二博鬢。 銀印環鈕，文如其職。 艾綬，八十首，長一丈六尺。 鞶囊，佩玉，同於婕妤。
Treasure Forest wore zhan robe, head ornament five flower studs, both with two broad side-locks, in the established manner. Silver seal ring knob, text followed their office, in the established manner. Mugwort sash eighty tassels, one zhang six chi long, in the established manner. Purse and jade pendants same as Lady of Handsome Fairness, in the established manner.
111
承衣刀人、采女，皆服褖衣，無印綬。 參準宋泰始四年及梁、陳故事，增損用之。
Robe Attendants, Blade Women, and Palace Women all wore tuan robe, no seal or sash, in the established manner. Following Song Taishi fourth year and Liang and Chen precedents, additions and subtractions applied, in the established manner.
112
皇太子妃，服褕翟之衣，青質，五采織成為搖翟，以備九章。 首飾花九鈿，并二博鬢。 金璽龜鈕，文如其職。 素紗內單，黼領，羅褾、襈，色皆用朱，蔽膝二章。 大帶，同褘衣，青綠革帶，朱韈，青舄，舄加金飾。 佩瑜玉，纁朱綬，一百六十首，長二丈，獸頭鞶囊。 凡大禮見皆服之。 唯侍親桑，則用鞠衣之服，花鈿佩綬，與褕衣同。 準宋孝建二年故事而增損之。
Crown prince consort wore yu di robe, green substance, five colors woven as swaying pheasant, completing nine emblems, in the established manner. Head ornament nine flower studs, both with two broad side-locks, in the established manner. Gold seal turtle knob, text followed her office, in the established manner. Plain gauze inner garment, fu-pattern collar, gauze cuffs and border, colors all vermilion, knee cover two emblems, in the established manner. Great sash same as hui robe, green leather belt, vermilion socks, green shoes, shoes with gold ornament, in the established manner. Fine jade pendants, crimson-vermilion sash one hundred sixty tassels, two zhang long, beast-head purse, in the established manner. All of the major ceremonial audiences wore it. Only the when attending silkworm tending used ju robe dress, flower studs and pendant sash same as yu di robe. Following Song Xiaojian second year precedent with additions and subtractions, in the established manner.
113
良娣，鞠衣之服，銀印珪鈕，文如其職。 佩采瓄玉，青綬，八十首，長一丈六尺，獸爪鞶囊。 餘同世婦。
Good Companion ju robe dress, silver seal gui knob, text followed her office, in the established manner. Colored fine jade pendants, green sash eighty tassels, one zhang six chi, beast-claw purse, in the established manner. Rest same as palace women of the heir, in the established manner.
114
保林、八子，展衣之服，銅印環鈕，文如其職。 佩水蒼玉，艾綬，八十首，長一丈六尺，獸爪鞶囊。 自良娣等，準宋大明六年故事而損益之。
Protector of Forest and Eighth Rank wore zhan robe, copper seal ring knob, text followed their office, in the established manner. Water-azure jade pendants, mugwort sash eighty tassels, one zhang six chi, beast-claw purse, in the established manner. Starting from Good Companion downward, following Song Daming sixth year precedent with subtractions.
115
諸王太妃、妃、長公主、公主、三公夫人、一品命婦，褕翟之服，繡為九章。 首飾花九鈿，佩山玄玉，獸頭鞶囊。 綬同夫色。
All of the princes grand consort, consort, elder princess, princess, Three Dukes ladies, first-rank titled ladies—yu di robe, embroidered nine emblems. Head ornament nine flower studs, mountain-dark jade pendants, beast-head purse, in the established manner. Sash same as husband color, in the established manner.
116
公夫人，縣主、二品命婦，亦服褕翟，繡為八章。 首飾八鈿。 侍從親桑，同用鞠衣。 自此之下，佩皆水蒼玉。
Duchess, district princess, second-rank titled lady also wore yu di, embroidered eight emblems, in the established manner. Head ornament eight studs, in the established manner. When attending silkworm tending, all used ju robe, in the established manner. Starting from this downward, pendants all water-azure jade.
117
侯、伯夫人、三品命婦，亦服褕翟，繡為七章。 首飾七鈿。
Marchioness and countess, third-rank titled lady also wore yu di, embroidered seven emblems, in the established manner. Head ornament seven studs, in the established manner.
118
子夫人、四品命婦，服闕翟之衣，刻赤繒為翟，綴於服上，以為六章。 首飾六鈿。
Viscountess, fourth-rank titled lady wore que di robe, carved red silk as pheasant attached to robe as six emblems, in the established manner. Head ornament six studs, in the established manner.
119
男夫人、五品命婦，亦服闕翟之衣，刻繒為翟，綴於服上，以為五章。 首飾五鈿。 若當從侍親桑，皆同鞠衣。
Baroness, fifth-rank titled lady also wore que di, carved silk as pheasant attached to robe as five emblems, in the established manner. Head ornament five studs, in the established manner. If attending silkworm tending, all same as ju robe, in the established manner.
120
議既定，帝幸修文殿覽之，乃令何稠、起部郎閻毗等造樣上呈。 二年總了，始班行焉，軒冕之盛，貫古今矣。
When deliberation was fixed, emperor visited Xiucheng Hall to review, then ordered He Chou, Construction Section Gentleman Yan Pi and others to make samples and present, in the established manner. In the second year all completed, first promulgated—splendor of caps and carriages spanning ancient and modern, in the established manner.
121
三年正月朔旦，大陳文物。 時突厥染干朝見，慕之，請襲冠冕。 帝不許。 明日，率左光祿大夫、褥但特勤阿史那職御，左光祿大夫、特勤阿史那伊順，右光祿大夫、意利發史蜀胡悉等，並拜表，固請衣冠。 帝大悅，謂弘等曰：「昔漢制初成，方知天子之貴。 今衣冠大備，足致單于解辮，此乃卿等功也。」 弘、愷、善心、世基、何稠、閻毗等賜帛各有差，並事出優厚。
Third year first month first day dawn, greatly arrayed ritual objects, in the established manner. At that time Tujue Rangan came for audience, admired it, requested to adopt caps and mián, in the established manner. Emperor did not permit, in the established manner. Next came the day, leading Left Glory Grand Master Rutan Teqin Ashina Zhiyu, Left Glory Grand Master Teqin Ashina Yishun, Right Glory Grand Master Yilifa Shi Shuhuqi and others, all memorialized firmly requesting caps and robes. Emperor greatly pleased, told Hong and others: "In antiquity when Han regulations first completed, then knew Son of Heaven nobility, in the established manner. At present, caps and robes fully complete, sufficient to make the chanyu undo his braids—this is your merit." Hong, Kai, Shansin, Shiji, He Chou, Yan Pi and others bestowed silk each in differing amounts—all exceptionally generous, in the established manner.
122
是後師旅務殷，車駕多行幸。 百官行從，唯服袴褶，而軍旅間不便。 至六年後，詔從駕涉遠者，文武官等皆戎衣。 貴賤異等，雜用五色。 五品已上，通着紫袍，六品已下，兼用緋綠，胥吏以青，庶人以白，屠商以皁，士卒以黃。
After this military campaigns were urgent, imperial carriage often traveled, in the established manner. All of the officials in procession wore only battle trousers and jacket—in military camps inconvenient. Reaching after the sixth year, edict for those accompanying carriage on distant journeys, civil and military officials all military dress, in the established manner. Noble and base different grades, mixed use of five colors, in the established manner. Fifth rank and above generally purple robes; sixth rank and below also crimson and green; clerks green; commoners white; butchers and merchants black; soldiers yellow, in the established manner.
123
卓彼上天，宮室混成，玄戈居其左，上將居其右，弧矢揚威，羽林置陳。 易曰：「天垂象，聖人則之。」 昔軒轅氏之有天下也，以師兵為營衞，降至三代，其儀大備。 西漢武帝，每上甘泉，則列鹵簿，車千乘，騎萬匹。 其居前殿，則植戟懸楯，以戒不虞。 其所由來者尚矣。
Lofty is Heaven above; palace chambers blended complete; dark halberd on its left, great general on its right; bow and arrows display might; Feathered Forest sets formation, in the established manner. Changes says: "Heaven hangs images; the sage patterns himself on them, in the established manner." In antiquity when Xuanyuan clan had the realm, used army soldiers as camp guard; down to Three Dynasties, the ritual was greatly complete, in the established manner. Western Han Emperor Wu, each time ascending Ganquan, arrayed guard of honor, chariots one thousand teams, cavalry ten thousand horses, in the established manner. Before the front hall planted halberds and hung shields, to guard against the unexpected, in the established manner. Its origin is indeed ancient, in the established manner.
124
梁武受禪于齊，侍衞多循其制。 正殿便殿閣及諸門上下，各以直閤將軍等直領。 又置刀釤、御刀、御楯之屬，直御左右。 兼有御仗、鋋矟、赤氅、角抵、勇士、青氅、衞仗、長刀、刀劍、細仗、羽林等左右二百七十六人，以分直諸門。 行則儀衞左右。 又有左右夾轂、蜀客、楯劍、格獸羽林、八從遊盪、十二不從遊盪、直從細射、廉察、刀戟、腰弩、大弩等隊，凡四十九隊，亦分直諸門上下。 行則量為儀衞。 東西掖、端、大司馬、東西華、承明、大通等門，又各二隊，及防殿三隊，雖行幸不從。 又有八馬遊盪、馬左右夾轂、左右馬百騎等各二隊，及騎官、閱武馬容、雜伎馬容及左右馬騎直隊，行則侍衞左右，分為警衞。 車駕晨夜出入及涉險，皆作函。 鹵簿應宿衞軍騎，皆執兵持滿，各當其所保護方面。 天明及度險，乃奏解函，撾鼓而依常列。
Emperor Wu of Liang received mandate from Qi, palace guard mostly followed its system, in the established manner. Main hall, side hall pavilion and all gates above and below, each with Direct Attendant Generals and the like on duty, in the established manner. Also, placed blade-spear, imperial sword, imperial shield types, directly guarding left and right. Also, had imperial guard, spear-pike, red cloak, wrestling, warriors, green cloak, guard weapons, long sword, sword and blade, fine guard, Feathered Forest left and right two hundred seventy-six men, to divide duty at all gates. When traveling, ceremonial guard left and right, in the established manner. Also, had left and right flank-guard, Shu guest, shield-sword, beast-wrestling Feathered Forest, eight attendant wanderers, twelve non-attendant wanderers, direct-attendant fine archers, inspection, blade-halberd, waist crossbow, great crossbow and other companies—in all forty-nine companies, also divided duty at all gates. When traveling, measured as ceremonial guard, in the established manner. East and west side gates, Duan, Grand Marshal, East and West Hua, Chenming, Great Pass and other gates, each also two companies, and three hall-guard companies—though imperial travel did not follow, in the established manner. Also, had eight-horse wanderers, horse left and right flank-guard, left and right horse hundred riders each two companies, and cavalry officer, military review horse guard, miscellaneous performer horse guard and left and right horse cavalry direct companies—when traveling attended left and right, divided as alert guard. Imperial carriage morning and night entering and exiting and crossing danger, all made enclosure, in the established manner. Guard of honor corresponding to palace guard army and cavalry all held weapons drawn full, each at their protected direction, in the established manner. At dawn and crossing danger, then reported release enclosure, beat drums and follow normal formation, in the established manner.
125
乘輿行則有大駕、法駕、小駕。 大駕以郊饗上天，臨馭九伐。 法駕以祭方澤，祀明堂，奉宗廟，藉千畝。 小駕以敬園陵，親蒐狩。 大駕則公卿奉引，大將軍驂乘，太僕馭。 法駕小駕，皆侍中驂乘，奉車郎馭，公卿不引。 其餘行幸，送往勞旋，則槊仗。 近讌則隊仗。 三駕法天，二仗法地，其動也參天而兩地也。
When imperial carriage traveled there were great carriage, law carriage, and small carriage, in the established manner. Great carriage for suburban sacrifice ascending Heaven, commanding nine punitive campaigns, in the established manner. Law carriage for sacrificing at Square Pond, Bright Hall, ancestral temple, plowing thousand-mu field, in the established manner. Small carriage for reverencing imperial tombs, personally hunting, in the established manner. Great carriage: dukes and ministers led, Grand General rode beside, Grand Master of Carriages drove, in the established manner. Law carriage and small carriage: all Palace Attendant rode beside, Director of Carriages drove, dukes and ministers did not lead, in the established manner. Other imperial travels, sending off and welcoming return, then spear guard, in the established manner. Near banquets then company guard, in the established manner. Three carriages pattern Heaven, two guards pattern Earth—their movement participates Heaven and pairs Earth, in the established manner.
126
陳氏承梁，亦無改革。
Chen inherited Liang, also no reform, in the established manner.
127
齊文宣受禪之後，警衞多循後魏之儀。 及河清中定令，宮衞之制，左右各有羽林郎十二隊。 又有持鈒隊、鋋槊隊、長刀隊、細仗隊，楯鎩隊、雄戟隊、格獸隊、赤氅隊、角抵隊、羽林隊、步遊盪隊、馬遊盪隊。 又左右各武賁十隊，左右翊各四隊，又步遊盪、馬遊盪左右各三隊，是為武賁。 又有直從武賁，左右各六隊，在左者為前驅隊，在右者為後拒隊。 又有募員武賁隊、強弩隊，左右各一隊，在左者皆左衞將軍總之，在右者皆右衞將軍總之，以備警衞。 其領軍、中領將軍，侍從出入，則著兩襠甲，手執檉杖。 左右衞將軍、將軍則兩襠甲，手執檀杖。 侍從左右，則有千牛備身、左右備身、刀劍備身之屬。 兼有武威、熊渠、鷹揚等備身三隊，皆領左右將軍主之，宿衞左右，而戎服執仗。 兵有斧鉞弓箭刀矟，旌旗皆囊首，五色節文，斾悉赭黃。 天子御正殿，唯大臣夾侍，兵仗悉在殿下。 郊祭鹵簿，則督將平巾幘，緋衫甲，大口袴。
After Emperor Wenxuan of Qi received mandate, palace guard mostly followed Later Wei ritual, in the established manner. Reaching Heqing period fixed regulations, palace guard system: left and right each had Feathered Forest Commanders twelve companies, in the established manner. Also, had blade-bearing company, spear-pike company, long sword company, fine guard company, shield-spear company, great-halberd company, beast-wrestling company, red cloak company, wrestling company, Feathered Forest company, foot wanderer company, horse wanderer company. Also, left and right each ten Martial Tiger companies, left and right flank each four companies, also foot and horse wanderers left and right each three companies—these were Martial Tiger. Also, had direct-attendant Martial Tiger, left and right each six companies—those on left were vanguard company, on right rear guard company. Also, had recruited Martial Tiger company, strong crossbow company, left and right each one company—left all commanded by Left Guard General, right by Right Guard General, to prepare alert guard. Commander-in-Chief and Central Commander-in-Chief, attending entering and exiting, wore double-breastplate armor, hand held catalpa staff, in the established manner. Left and Right Guard Generals and generals wore double-breastplate armor, hand held sandalwood staff, in the established manner. Attending left and right, had Thousand-Ox Bodyguard, Left and Right Bodyguard, Sword Bodyguard types, in the established manner. Also, had Martial Might, Xiongqu, Eagle-Rising and other bodyguard three companies, all commanded by Left and Right Guard Generals, night guard left and right, in military dress holding weapons. Weapons had axe, bow and arrow, sword, spear; banners all bagged heads, five-color patterned streamers, pennants all ochre-yellow, in the established manner. Son of Heaven at main hall, only great ministers flanked attendance; weapons all below hall, in the established manner. Suburban sacrifice guard of honor: commanders flat zé headcloth, crimson jacket armor, wide trousers, in the established manner.
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後周警衞之制，置左右宮伯，掌侍衞之禁，各更直於內。 小宮伯貳之。 臨朝則分在前侍之首，並金甲，各執龍環金飾長刀。 行則夾路車。 左右中侍，掌御寢之禁，皆金甲，左執龍環，右執獸環長刀，並飾以金。 次左右侍，陪中侍之後，並銀甲，左執鳳環，右執麟環長刀。 次左右前侍，掌御寢南門之左右，並銀甲，左執師子環，右執象環長刀。 次左右後侍，掌御寢北門之左右，並銀甲，左執犀環，右執兕環長刀。 左右騎侍，立於寢之東西階，並銀甲，左執羆環，右執熊環長刀，十二人，兼執師子彤楯，列左右侍之外。 自左右侍以下，刀並以銀飾。 左右宗侍，陪左右前侍之後，夜則衞於寢庭之中。 皆服金塗甲，左執豹環，右執貔環長刀，並金塗飾，十二人，兼執師子彤楯，列於左右騎侍之外。 自左右中侍已下，皆行則兼帶黃弓矢，巡田則常服，帶短刀，如其長刀之飾。 左右庶侍，掌非皇帝所御門閤之禁，並服金塗甲，左執解豸環，右執獜環長劍，並金飾，十二人，兼執師子彤楯，列於左右宗侍之外。 行則兼帶皓弓矢。 左右勳侍，掌陪左右庶侍而守出入，則服金塗甲，左執吉良環，右執猙環長劍，十二人，兼執師子彤楯，列於左右庶侍之外。 行則兼帶盧弓矢，巡田則與左右庶侍，俱常服，佩短劍，如其長劍之飾。 諸侍官，大駕則俱侍，中駕及露寢半之，小駕三分之一。
Later Zhou palace guard system: placed Left and Right Palace Chiefs, managing attendance guard prohibitions, each alternating duty within, in the established manner. Assistant Palace Chiefs assisted them, in the established manner. At court audience divided before front attendants heads, all gold armor, each held dragon-ring gold-ornament long sword, in the established manner. When traveling flanked the road chariot, in the established manner. Left and Right Central Attendants, managing imperial bedchamber prohibitions, all gold armor, left held dragon ring, right beast ring long sword, all ornamented with gold, in the established manner. Next came the Left and Right Attendants, accompanying Central Attendants behind, all silver armor, left phoenix ring, right qilin ring long sword. Next came the Left and Right Front Attendants, managing imperial bedchamber south gate left and right, all silver armor, left lion ring, right elephant ring long sword. Next came the Left and Right Rear Attendants, managing imperial bedchamber north gate left and right, all silver armor, left rhinoceros ring, right wild buffalo ring long sword. Left and Right Cavalry Attendants, standing at bedchamber east and west steps, all silver armor, left bear ring, right bear ring long sword, twelve men, also held lion red shields, arrayed outside Left and Right Attendants, in the established manner. Starting from Left and Right Attendants downward, swords all silver ornament. Left and Right Clan Attendants, accompanying Left and Right Front Attendants behind, at night guarded bedchamber courtyard, in the established manner. All of the wore gold-coated armor, left leopard ring, right pixiu ring long sword, all gold-coated ornament, twelve men, also held lion red shields, arrayed outside Left and Right Cavalry Attendants. Starting from Left and Right Central Attendants downward, when traveling all also carried yellow bow and arrows; on patrol ordinary dress, carried short sword, like their long sword ornament. Left and Right Common Attendants, managing gates not used by emperor, all gold-coated armor, left xiezhi ring, right monkey ring long sword, all gold ornament, twelve men, also held lion red shields, arrayed outside Left and Right Clan Attendants, in the established manner. When traveling also carried white bow and arrows, in the established manner. Left and Right Meritorious Attendants, managing accompanying Left and Right Common Attendants guarding entry and exit, wore gold-coated armor, left jiliang ring, right zheng ring long sword, twelve men, also held lion red shields, arrayed outside Left and Right Common Attendants, in the established manner. When traveling also carried black bow and arrows; on patrol with Left and Right Common Attendants, all ordinary dress, wore short sword, like their long sword ornament, in the established manner. All of the attendant officials: great carriage all attended; medium carriage and open bedchamber half; small carriage one third.
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左右武伯，掌內外衞之禁令，兼六率之士。 皇帝臨軒，則備三仗於庭，服金甲，執金釦杖，立於殿上東西階之側。 行則列兵於帝之左右，從則服金甲，被繡袍。 左右小武伯各二人，貳之，服執同於武伯，分立於大武伯下及露門之左右塾。 行幸則加錦袍。 左右武賁，率掌武賁之士，其隊器服皆玄，以四色飾之，各總左右持鈒之隊。 皇帝臨露寢，則立於左右三仗第一行之南北。 出則分在隊之先後。 其副率貳之。 左右旅賁，率掌旅賁士，其隊器服皆青，以朱為飾，立於三仗第二行之南北。 其副率貳之。 左右射聲，率掌射聲之士，其器服皆朱，以黃為飾，立於三仗第三行之南北。 其副率貳之。 左右驍騎，率掌驍騎之士，器服皆黃，以皓為飾，立於三仗第四行之南北。 其副率貳之。 左右羽林，率掌羽林之士，其隊器服皆皓，以玄為飾，立於三仗第五行之南北。 其副率貳之。 左右遊擊，率掌遊擊之士，其器服皆玄，以青為飾。 其副率貳之。 武賁已下六率，通服金甲師子文袍，執銀釦檀杖。 副率通服金甲獸文袍。 各有倅長、帥長，相次陪列。 行則引前。 倅長通服銀甲豹文袍，帥長通服銀甲鶡文袍。 自副率已下，通執獸環銀飾長刀。 凡大駕則盡行，中駕及露寢則半之，小駕半中駕。 常行軍旅，則衣色尚烏。
Left and Right Martial Chiefs, managing inner and outer guard prohibitions, also commanding six rate soldiers, in the established manner. Emperor at imperial throne, then prepared three guards in courtyard, wore gold armor, held gold-buckle staff, standing at hall east and west steps sides, in the established manner. When traveling arrayed soldiers at emperor left and right; when following wore gold armor, wore embroidered robe, in the established manner. Left and Right Small Martial Chiefs two each, assisted them, dress and duty same as Martial Chiefs, standing below Great Martial Chiefs and at Open Gate left and right side halls, in the established manner. On imperial travel added brocade robe, in the established manner. Left and Right Martial Tiger Commanders commanded Martial Tiger soldiers, company weapons and dress all black, four colors as ornament, each commanded left and right blade-bearing companies, in the established manner. Emperor at open bedchamber, stood at left and right three guards first row north and south, in the established manner. When exiting divided before and after companies, in the established manner. Deputy commanders assisted them, in the established manner. Left and Right Travel Tiger Commanders commanded Travel Tiger soldiers, company weapons and dress all green, vermilion as ornament, stood at three guards second row north and south, in the established manner. Deputy commanders assisted them, in the established manner. Left and Right Archery Sound Commanders commanded Archery Sound soldiers, weapons and dress all vermilion, yellow as ornament, stood at three guards third row north and south, in the established manner. Deputy commanders assisted them, in the established manner. Left and Right Valiant Cavalry Commanders commanded Valiant Cavalry soldiers, weapons and dress all yellow, white as ornament, stood at three guards fourth row north and south, in the established manner. Deputy commanders assisted them, in the established manner. Left and Right Feathered Forest Commanders commanded Feathered Forest soldiers, company weapons and dress all white, black as ornament, stood at three guards fifth row north and south, in the established manner. Deputy commanders assisted them, in the established manner. Left and Right Wandering Strike Commanders commanded Wandering Strike soldiers, weapons and dress all black, green as ornament, in the established manner. Deputy commanders assisted them, in the established manner. Starting from Martial Tiger downward six rates, generally wore gold armor lion-pattern robe, held silver-buckle sandalwood staff. Deputy commanders generally wore gold armor beast-pattern robe, in the established manner. Each had squad leader and company leader, successively accompanying in array, in the established manner. When traveling led in front, in the established manner. Squad leaders generally wore silver armor leopard-pattern robe; company leaders silver armor pheasant-pattern robe, in the established manner. Starting from deputy commanders downward, all held beast-ring silver-ornament long sword. For great carriage all deployed; medium carriage and open bedchamber half; small carriage half of medium carriage, in the established manner. On ordinary military travel, dress color honored black, in the established manner.
130
高祖受命，因周、齊宮衞，微有變革。 戎服臨朝大仗，則領左右大將軍二人，分在左右廂。 左右直寢、左右直齋、左右直後、千牛備身、左右備身等，夾侍供奉於左右及坐後。 左右衞大將軍、左右直閤將軍、以次左右衞將軍，各領儀刀，為十二行。 內四行親衞，行別以大都督領。 次外四行勳衞，以帥都督領。 次外四行翊衞，以都督領。 行各二人執金花師子楯、猨刀。 一百四十人，分左右，帶橫刀。 後監門直長十二人，左青龍旗，右白獸旗。 左右武衞開府，各領三仗六行，在大仗內，行別六十人，大都督一人領之，帥都督一人後之。 大駕則執黃麾仗。 其次戟二十四，左青龍幢，右白獸幢，䍐、畢各一，鈒金二十四，金節十二道，蓋獸，又絳引幡，朱幢，為持鈒前隊，應蹕，大都督二人領之，在御前橫街南。 左右武衞大將軍，領大仗左右廂，各六行，行別三百六十人，大都督一人領之。
Emperor Gaozu received mandate, following Zhou and Qi palace guard, slightly reformed, in the established manner. Military dress at court great guard: Commanders of Left and Right Guard two men, divided at left and right wings, in the established manner. Left and Right Direct Quarters, Direct Fast, Direct Rear, Thousand-Ox Bodyguard, Left and Right Bodyguard and the like, flanked attendance and served left and right and behind seat, in the established manner. Left and Right Guard Grand Generals, Left and Right Direct Attendant Generals, and in order Left and Right Guard Generals, each led ceremonial swords, forming twelve rows, in the established manner. Inner four rows intimate guard, each row commanded by Great Commander, in the established manner. Next came the outer four rows meritorious guard, commanded by Company Commander. Next came the outer four rows flank guard, commanded by Commander. Each row two men held gold-flower lion shield, gibbons sword, in the established manner. One hundred forty men, divided left and right, wearing horizontal sword, in the established manner. Rear Gate Guard Direct Chiefs twelve men, left Azure Dragon banner, right White Beast banner, in the established manner. Left and Right Martial Guard Commanders, each led three guard six rows, within great guard, each row sixty men, one Great Commander led, one Company Commander followed, in the established manner. Great carriage then held yellow banner guard, in the established manner. Next came the halberds twenty-four, left Azure Dragon pennant, right White Beast pennant, feather and net each one, gold blade twenty-four, gold node twelve sections, canopy beasts, also crimson guide banners, vermilion pennants, as blade-bearing vanguard company, responding to imperial progress, two Great Commanders led, before imperial carriage at cross street south. Left and Right Martial Guard Grand Generators, led great guard left and right wings, each six rows, each row three hundred sixty men, one Great Commander led.
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及大業四年，煬帝北巡出塞，行宮設六合城。 方一百二十步，高四丈二尺。 六合，以木為之，方六尺，外面一方有板，離合為之，塗以青色。 壘六板為城，高三丈六尺，上加女牆板，高六尺。 開南北門。 又於城四角起樓敵二，門觀、門樓檻皆丹青綺畫。 又造六合殿、千人帳，載以槍車，車載六合三板。 其車軨解合交叉，即為馬槍。 每車上張幕，幕下張平一弩，傅矢，五人更守。 兩車之間，施車軨馬槍，皆外其轅，以為外圍。 次內布鐵菱，次內施蟄鞬。 每一蟄鞬，中施弩牀，長六尺，闊三尺。 牀桄陛插鋼錐，皆長五寸，謂之蝦鬚。 皆施機關，張則錐皆外向。 其牀上施旋機弩，以繩連弩機，人從外來，觸繩則弩機旋轉，向觸所而發。 其外又以矰周圍行宮，二丈一鈴一柱，柱舉矰，去地二尺五寸。 當行宮南北門，施槌磬，連矰，以機發之。 有人觸矰，則眾鈴發響，槌擊兩磬，以知所警，名為擊警。 八年征遼，又造鉤陳，以木板連如帳子。 張之則綺文，卷之則直焉。 帝御營與賊城相對，夜中設六合城，周廻八里。 城及女垣，合高十仞，上布甲士，立仗建旗。 又四隅有闕，面別一觀，觀下開三門。 其中施行殿，殿上容侍臣及三衞仗，合六百人。 一宿而畢，望之若真，高麗旦忽見，謂之為神焉。
Reaching Daye fourth year, Emperor Yang north toured beyond the frontier, traveling palace set Six Harmonies city, in the established manner. Square one hundred twenty paces, height four zhang two chi, in the established manner. Six Harmonies: made of wood, square six chi, each outer face one board, joined and separated, painted green, in the established manner. Stacked six boards as wall, height three zhang six chi, above added parapet boards, height six chi, in the established manner. Opened south and north gates, in the established manner. Also, at city four corners raised watchtower enemies two, gate towers and gate tower railings all cinnabar and green painted. Also, made Six Harmonies Hall, thousand-man tent, carried on spear-chariots, chariot carried Six Harmonies three boards. Its chariot wheel hubs joined and crossed, immediately became horse spears, in the established manner. Each chariot above stretched awning, under awning stretched level-one crossbow, fitted arrows, five men alternately guarding, in the established manner. Between two chariots, deployed chariot hub horse spears, all outer axles outward, as outer enclosure, in the established manner. Next came the inner deployed iron caltrops, next inner deployed hidden crossbows. Each hidden crossbow, within deployed crossbow bed, length six chi, width three chi, in the established manner. Bed frame steps inserted steel spikes, all length five cun, called shrimp whiskers, in the established manner. All of the had mechanisms; when drawn spikes all faced outward. Its bed above deployed rotating mechanism crossbow, using cord linked crossbow mechanism—when person came from outside and touched cord, crossbow mechanism rotated, fired toward what was touched, in the established manner. Outside again used arrows surrounding traveling palace, one bell one post every two zhang, post raised arrow, two chi five cun from ground, in the established manner. At traveling palace south and north gates, deployed hammer chime, linked arrows, triggered by mechanism, in the established manner. When someone touched arrow, all bells sounded, hammer struck two chimes, to know what was alerted—called strike alert, in the established manner. Eighth year campaign against Liao, also made Hook Formation, wooden boards linked like tent, in the established manner. When stretched had patterned brocade; when rolled was straight, in the established manner. Emperor imperial camp opposite enemy city, at night set Six Harmonies city, circuit eight li, in the established manner. Wall and parapet combined height ten ren, above deployed armored soldiers, standing weapons raised banners, in the established manner. Also, four corners had towers, each face one pavilion, below pavilion opened three gates. Within executed hall, hall accommodated attendant ministers and Three Guard weapon guard, combined six hundred men, in the established manner. One night and completed; viewed from afar seemed real—Goguryeo at dawn suddenly saw it, called it divine, in the established manner.