1
唐初受命，車、服皆因隋舊。 武德四年，始著車輿、衣服之令，上得兼下，下不得儗上。
When the Tang first received the Mandate, its carriage and attire regulations followed those of the Sui. In Wude year 4 (621), edicts on carriages and dress were issued under the rule that superiors might use insignia of lower ranks, but inferiors might not emulate those above.
2
凡天子之車：
The Son of Heaven's carriages were as follows:
3
曰玉路者，祭祀、納后所乘也，青質，玉飾末； 金路者，饗、射、祀還、飲至所乘也，赤質，金飾末； 象路者，行道所乘也，黃質，象飾末； 革路者，臨兵、巡守所乘也，白質，鞔以革； 木路者，蒐田所乘也，黑質，漆之。 五路皆重輿，左青龍，右白虎，金鳳翅，畫苣文鳥獸，黃屋左纛。 金鳳一、鈴二在軾前，鸞十二在衡，龍輈前設鄣塵。 青蓋三層，繡飾。 上設博山方鏡，下圓鏡。 樹羽。 輪金根、朱班、重牙。 左建旂，十有二旒，畫升龍，其長曳地，青繡綢杠。 右載闟戟，長四尺，廣三尺，黻文。 旂首金龍銜錦結綬及緌帶，垂鈴。 金鍐方釳，插翟尾五焦，鏤鍚，鞶纓十二就。 旌旗、蓋、鞶纓，皆從路質，唯蓋裏皆用黃。 五路皆有副。
The Jade Chariot was used for sacrifices and for receiving an empress; its body was green, with jade ornament at the pole tip. The Golden Chariot served banquets, archery, return from sacrifice, and victory feasts; its body was red, with gold ornament at the pole tip. The Ivory Chariot was used for ordinary progress on the roads; its body was yellow, with ivory ornament at the pole tip. The Leather Chariot was used when confronting armies or on inspection tours; its body was white and covered in leather. The Wooden Chariot was used for the imperial hunt; its body was black and lacquered. All five chariots had double bodies, an azure dragon on the left and a white tiger on the right, golden phoenix wings, grain-pattern and bird-and-beast painting, and a yellow canopy with the great banner on the left. One golden phoenix and two bells were mounted before the railing; twelve phoenix bells hung on the crossbar; dragon shafts bore a dust screen ahead. Its canopy had three azure layers with embroidered ornament. Above the canopy stood a square Bo Mountain mirror and, below it, a round mirror. Feathered plumes were set upon it. The wheels had golden hubs, vermilion rim bands, and double teeth. On the left stood a banner of twelve tassels painted with ascending dragons, trailing to the ground, on an azure embroidered silk pole. On the right was carried a fu-patterned ge halberd four chi long and three chi wide. The banner head bore a golden dragon clutching brocade knotted cords and sash ends, with bells hanging below. Golden wei square yi ornaments bore five tufts of pheasant tail, carved yang fittings, and pan-ying harness in twelve sets. Banners, canopy, and pan-ying all matched the chariot's base color; only the canopy lining was always yellow. Each of the five chariots had a reserve duplicate.
4
耕根車者，耕藉所乘也，青質，三重蓋，餘如玉路。
The Plough-Root Chariot was used for ploughing the sacred field; it had a green body and triple canopy, otherwise matching the Jade Chariot.
5
安車者，臨幸所乘也，金飾重輿，曲壁，紫油纁，朱裏通幰，朱絲絡網，朱鞶纓，朱覆髮具絡，駕赤騮。 副路、耕根車、安車，皆八鸞。
The Sedan Chariot was used on imperial visits: gold ornament, double body, curved walls, purple oil canopy, vermilion lining and full screen, vermilion silk net and pan-ying, vermilion cap and hair-net fittings, drawn by chestnut bays. Spare chariots, the Plough-Root Chariot, and the Sedan Chariot each carried eight phoenix bells.
6
四望車者，拜陵、臨弔所乘也，制如安車，青油纁，朱裏通幰，朱絲絡網。
The Four-View Chariot was used for tomb worship and condolence calls; like the Sedan Chariot, it had a green oil canopy, vermilion lining and full screen, and vermilion silk net.
7
又有屬車十乘：一曰指南車，二曰記里鼓車，三曰白鷺車，四曰鸞旗車，五曰辟惡車，六曰皮軒車，七曰羊車，與耕根車、四望車、安車為十乘。 行幸陳於鹵簿，則分前後； 大朝會，則分左右。
There were also ten attendant chariots: the south-pointing chariot, the odometer drum chariot, the egret chariot, the phoenix-banner chariot, the demon-warding chariot, the tiger-skin canopy chariot, and the goat chariot — with the Plough-Root, Four-View, and Sedan chariots, ten in all. When the emperor traveled, they were drawn up in the guard of honor and divided into front and rear sections. At great court assemblies they were arrayed to left and right.
8
皇后之車六：
The empress had six chariots:
9
重翟車者，受冊、從祀、饗廟所乘也，青質，青油纁，朱裏通幰，繡紫絡帶及帷，八鸞，鏤鍚，鞶纓十二就，金鍐方釳，樹翟羽，朱總。
The Heavy Pheasant Chariot was used when receiving investiture, following sacrifice, or feasting at the ancestral temple: green body, green oil canopy, vermilion lining and full screen, embroidered purple net bands and curtains, eight phoenix bells, carved yang, twelve-set pan-ying, golden wei square yi, planted pheasant plumes, and vermilion tassels.
10
厭翟車者，親桑所乘也，赤質，紫油纁，朱裏通幰，紅錦絡帶及帷。
The Pressed Pheasant Chariot was used when the empress personally tended the mulberry grove: red body, purple oil canopy, vermilion lining and full screen, red brocade net bands and curtains.
11
翟車者，歸寧所乘也，黃油纁，黃裏通幰，白紅錦絡帶及帷。 三車皆金飾末，輪畫朱牙，箱飾翟羽，朱絲絡網，鞶纓色皆從車質。
The Pheasant Chariot was used when returning to her parents' home: yellow oil canopy, yellow lining and full screen, white and red brocade net bands and curtains. All three had gold pole tips, wheels painted with vermilion teeth, boxes ornamented with pheasant plumes, vermilion silk net, and pan-ying colors matching each chariot's base hue.
12
安車者，臨幸所乘也，制如金路，紫油纁，朱裏通幰。
The Sedan Chariot was used on visits, built like the Golden Chariot, with purple oil canopy and vermilion lining and full screen.
13
四望車者，拜陵、弔喪所乘也，青油纁，朱裏通幰。
The Four-View Chariot was used for tomb worship and mourning calls, with green oil canopy and vermilion lining and full screen.
14
金根車者，常行所乘也，紫油纁，朱裏通幰。
The Golden-Root Chariot was used for everyday travel, with purple oil canopy and vermilion lining and full screen.
15
夫人乘厭翟車，九嬪乘翟車，婕妤以下乘安車。 外命婦、公主、王妃乘厭翟車。 一品乘白銅飾犢車，青油纁，朱裏通幰，朱絲絡網。 二品以下去油纁、絡網。 四品有青偏幰。
The consort rode the Pressed Pheasant Chariot, the nine concubines the Pheasant Chariot, and ladies below Jieyu rank the Sedan Chariot. Wives holding outside titles, princesses, and imperial sons' consorts rode the Pressed Pheasant Chariot. First rank rode a calf cart with white bronze fittings, green oil canopy, vermilion lining and full screen, and vermilion silk net. Second rank and below went without the oil canopy and silk net. Fourth rank had an azure partial screen.
16
皇太子之車三：
The heir apparent had three chariots:
17
金路者，從祀、朝賀、納妃所乘也，赤質，金飾末，重較，箱畫苣文鳥獸，黃屋，伏鹿軾，龍輈，金鳳一，在軾前，設鄣塵，朱黃蓋裏，輪畫朱牙。 左建旂九旒，右載闟戟，旂首金龍銜結綬及鈴緌，八鸞二鈴，金鍐方釳，樹翟尾五焦，鏤鍚，鞶纓九就。
The Golden Chariot was used when following sacrifice, attending congratulatory court, or receiving a consort: red body, gold pole tip, double rails, box painted with grain patterns and birds and beasts, yellow canopy, crouching-deer railing, dragon shafts, one golden phoenix before the railing, dust screen, vermilion-and-yellow canopy lining, wheels with vermilion teeth. On the left stood a nine-tassel banner; on the right a ge halberd; the banner head bore a golden dragon with knotted cords and bell sashes; eight phoenix bells and two bells; golden wei square yi; five tufts of pheasant tail; carved yang; pan-ying in nine sets.
18
軺車者，五日常服、朝饗、宮臣、出入行道所乘也。
The light cart served everyday dress on the five ritual days, morning banquets, palace officials, and travel on the roads.
19
四望車者，臨弔所乘也。 二車皆金飾末，紫油纁，朱裏通幰。
The Four-View Chariot was used for condolence visits. Both had gold pole tips, purple oil canopy, and vermilion lining and full screen.
20
親王及武職，一品有象路，青油纁，朱裏通幰，朱絲絡網。 二品、三品有革路，朱裏青通幰。 四品有木路，五品有軺車，皆碧裏青偏幰。 象飾末，班輪，八鸞，左建旂，畫升龍，右載闟戟。 革路、木路，左建旜。 軺車，曲壁，碧裏青通幰。 諸路，朱質、朱蓋、朱旂、朱班輪。 一品之旜九旒，二品八旒，三品七旒，四品六旒，鞶纓就亦如之。 三品以上珂九子，四品七子，五品五子，六品以下去通幰及珂。
Imperial princes and first-rank military posts used the Ivory Chariot, with green oil canopy, vermilion lining and full screen, and vermilion silk net. Second and third rank used the Leather Chariot, with vermilion lining and azure full screen. Fourth rank had the Wooden Chariot, fifth rank the light cart, each with green lining and azure partial screen. They bore ivory pole tips, rimmed wheels, eight phoenix bells, a left banner painted with ascending dragons, and a ge halberd on the right. Leather and Wooden chariots bore a pennant on the left. The light cart had curved walls, green lining, and azure full screen. All such chariots had vermilion body, canopy, banners, and rim bands. First rank bore nine pennant tassels, second eight, third seven, fourth six; pan-ying sets followed the same scale. Third rank and above had nine ke ornaments, fourth seven, fifth five; sixth rank and below went without full screen and ke.
21
王公車路，藏於太僕，受制、行冊命、巡陵、昏葬則給之。 餘皆以騎代車。
Princes' and dukes' chariots were kept in the Imperial Stud and issued only when receiving orders, promulgating investiture, touring tombs, or for weddings and funerals. On other occasions they rode horseback instead.
22
凡天子之服十四：
The Son of Heaven had fourteen sets of dress:
23
大裘冕者，祀天地之服也。 廣八寸，長一尺二寸，以板為之，黑表，纁裏，無旒，金飾玉簪導，組帶為纓，色如其綬，黈纊充耳。 大裘，繒表，黑羔表為緣，纁裏，黑領、褾、襟緣，朱裳，白紗中單，皂領，青褾、襈、裾，朱韈，赤舄。 鹿盧玉具劍，火珠鏢首，白玉雙佩。 黑組大雙綬，黑質，黑、黃、赤、白、縹、綠為純，以備天地四方之色。 廣一尺，長二丈四尺，五百首。 紛廣二寸四分，長六尺四寸，色如綬。 又有小雙綬，長二尺六寸，色如大綬，而首半之，閒施三玉環。 革帶，以白皮為之，以屬佩、綬、印章。 鞶囊，亦曰鞶帶，博三寸半，加金鏤玉鉤䚢。 大帶，以素為之，以朱為裏，在腰及垂皆有裨，上以朱錦，貴正色也，下以綠錦，賤閒色也，博四寸。 紐約，貴賤皆用青組，博三寸。 黻以繒為之，隨裳色，上廣一尺，以象天數，下廣二尺，以象地數，長三尺，朱質，畫龍、火、山三章，以象三才，其頸五寸，兩角有肩，廣二寸，以屬革帶。 朝服謂之鞸，冕服謂之黻。
The Great Fur Robe and Miǎn Crown were worn when sacrificing to Heaven and Earth. The crown was eight cun wide and one chi two cun long, of board with black exterior and xuan lining, without tassels; it had gold ornament and jade hairpin guide, group cords for the chin strap colored like the sash, and huang yarn ear-fillers. The Great Fur robe had silk outside, black lamb-fur border, and xuan lining; black collar, cuffs, and lapel trim; vermilion skirt; white gauze inner robe with black collar and azure cuffs, placket, and hem; vermilion socks and red shoes. He wore a Deer-Lu sword with jade fittings, fire-pearl dart head, and white jade double pendant. A great double sash of black group, black ground, bordered in black, yellow, red, white, piao, and green to represent Heaven, Earth, and the four directions. It was one chi wide, two zhang four chi long, with five hundred tassels. The fen was two cun four fen wide and six chi four cun long, matching the sash color. A small double sash two chi six cun long matched the great sash in color but with half the tassels and three jade rings spaced along it. A leather belt of white hide carried pendant, sash, and seals. The pan bag — also called the pan belt — was three and a half cun wide, with added gold openwork jade hook clasp. The great belt was plain silk with vermilion lining; waist and hanging sections had flaps — vermilion brocade above for the noble primary color, green brocade below for the secondary — four cun wide. Knot fasteners for all ranks used azure cord three cun wide. The fu apron was silk, matching the skirt hue: one chi wide above for Heaven's number, two chi below for Earth's, three chi long on vermilion ground with dragon, fire, and mountain in three panels for the three powers; a five-cun neck, two-cun shoulders at both corners, joined to the leather belt. Court dress termed it the bian; miǎn dress termed it the fu.
24
衮冕者，踐祚、饗廟、征還、遣將、飲至、加元服、納后、元日受朝賀、臨軒冊拜王公之服也。 廣一尺二寸，長二尺四寸，金飾玉簪導，垂白珠十二旒，朱絲組帶為纓，色如綬。 深青衣纁裳，十二章：日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彝八章在衣； 藻、粉米、黼、黻四章在裳。 衣畫，裳繡，以象天地之色也。 自山、龍以下，每章一行為等，每行十二。 衣、褾、領，畫以升龍，白紗中單，黻領，青褾、襈、裾，韍繡龍、山、火三章，舄加金飾。
The Gun Robe and Miǎn Crown were worn for enthronement, temple feasts, return from campaign, dispatching generals, victory feasts, capping, receiving an empress, New Year congratulations, and enthroned investiture of princes and dukes. The crown was one chi two cun wide and two chi four cun long, with gold ornament and jade hairpin guide, twelve white pearl tassels, and vermilion silk group cords colored like the sash. Deep azure coat and xuan skirt bore twelve emblems: sun, moon, stars, mountain, dragon, flowering creature, fire, and ancestral vessels — eight on the coat; waterweed, grain, fu, and fu — four on the skirt. The coat was painted and the skirt embroidered to represent the colors of Heaven and Earth. From mountain and dragon downward, each emblem formed one graded row of twelve. Coat, cuffs, and collar bore painted ascending dragons; white gauze inner robe with fu collar; azure cuffs, placket, and hem; knee-guard embroidered with dragon, mountain, and fire; shoes with gold fittings.
25
鷩冕者，有事遠主之服也。 八旒，七章：華蟲、火、宗彝三章在衣； 藻、粉米、黼、黻四章在裳。
The Bi Robe and Miǎn Crown were worn when dealing with distant lords. It had eight tassels and seven emblems: flowering creature, fire, and ancestral vessels on the coat; waterweed, grain, fu, and fu on the skirt.
26
毳冕者，祭海嶽之服也。 七旒，五章：宗彝、藻、粉米在衣； 黼、黻在裳。
The Cui Robe and Miǎn Crown were worn when sacrificing to the seas and mountains. Seven tassels and five emblems: ancestral vessels, waterweed, and grain on the coat; fu and fu on the skirt.
27
絺冕者，祭社稷饗先農之服也。 六旒，三章：絺、粉米在衣； 黼、黻在裳。
The Xi Robe and Miǎn Crown were worn for sacrifices to the altars of soil and grain and for feasting the plough spirit. Six tassels, three emblems: xi and grain on the coat; fu and fu on the skirt.
28
玄冕者，蜡祭百神、朝日、夕月之服也。 五旒，裳刺黼一章。 自衮冕以下，其制一也，簪導、劍、佩、綬皆同。
The Xuan Robe and Miǎn Crown were worn for the wax sacrifice to the hundred spirits, the morning sun rite, and the evening moon rite. Five tassels; the skirt bore one embroidered fu emblem. From the Gun miǎn downward the system was uniform: hairpin guide, sword, pendant, and sash were alike.
29
通天冠者，冬至受朝賀、祭還、燕羣臣、養老之服也。 二十四梁，附蟬十二首，施珠翠、博山，黑介幘，組纓翠緌，玉、犀簪導，絳紗袍，朱裏紅羅裳，白紗中單，朱領、褾、襈、裾，白裙、襦，絳紗蔽膝，白羅方心曲領，白韈，黑舄。 白假帶，其制垂二絛帛，以變祭服之大帶。 天子未加元服，以空頂黑介幘，雙童髻，雙玉導，加寶飾。 三品以上亦加寶飾，五品以上雙玉導，金飾，六品以下無飾。
The Pervading Heaven Crown was worn for winter-solstice congratulations, return from sacrifice, banquets for ministers, and nurturing the aged. It had twenty-four ridges and twelve attached cicada heads, with pearl, kingfisher, and Bo Mountain ornaments, black kerchief, group cords and kingfisher tassels, jade and rhinoceros hairpin guide, deep-red gauze robe, vermilion lining and red silk skirt, white gauze inner robe with vermilion collar, cuffs, placket, and hem, white skirt and jacket, deep-red gauze knee-guard, white silk square heart and curved collar, white socks, and black shoes. A white false belt, hung with two silk cords, substituted for the sacrificial great belt. Before receiving the capping, the Son of Heaven wore the open-top crown with black kerchief, double boy's topknots, and double jade guides with treasure ornament added. Third rank and above added treasure ornament as well; fifth rank and above used double jade guides with gold ornament; sixth rank and below had none.
30
緇布冠者，始冠之服也。 天子五梁，三品以上三梁，五品以上二梁，九品以上一梁。
The black-cloth cap was worn for the first capping ceremony. The Son of Heaven's cap had five ridges; third rank and above three; fifth rank and above two; ninth rank and above one.
31
武弁者，講武、出征、蒐狩、大射、禡、類、宜社、賞祖、罰社、纂嚴之服也。 有金附蟬，平巾幘。
The martial cap was worn for martial lectures, campaigns, hunts, great archery, war-prayer rites, battle-array rites, offerings at the appropriate altar and reward-ancestor rites, punish-altar rites, and mustering under strict discipline. It bore a gold-attached cicada and the flat kerchief.
32
弁服者，朔日受朝之服也。 以鹿皮為之，有攀以持髮，十有二𤪌，玉簪導，絳紗衣，素裳。 白玉雙佩，革帶之後有鞶囊，以盛小雙綬，白韈，烏皮履。
The bian dress was worn when receiving court on the first of the month. It was made of deerskin with loops to secure the hair, twelve tassels, and jade hairpin guide, with a deep-red gauze coat and plain skirt. He wore a white jade double pendant; behind the leather belt hung a pan bag for the small double sash, with white socks and black leather shoes.
33
黑介幘者，拜陵之服也。 無飾，白紗單衣，白裙、襦，革帶，素韈，烏皮履。
The black kerchief was worn when worshiping at imperial tombs. It had no ornament: white gauze single robe, white skirt and jacket, leather belt, plain socks, and black leather shoes.
34
白紗冒者，視朝、聽訟、宴見賓客之服也。 以烏紗為之，白裙、襦，白韈，烏皮履。
The white gauze cap was worn for holding court, hearing lawsuits, and banquets with guests. It was made of black gauze, with white skirt and jacket, white socks, and black leather shoes.
35
平巾幘者，乘馬之服也。 金飾，玉簪導，冠支以玉，紫褶，白袴，玉具裝，珠寶鈿帶，有鞾。
The flat kerchief was riding dress. It bore gold ornament and jade hairpin guide, jade crown branches, purple pleated coat, white trousers, jade sword fittings, jeweled studded belt, and boots.
36
白帢者，臨喪之服也。 白紗單衣，烏皮履。
The white kerchief was worn when attending mourning. It consisted of a white gauze single robe and black leather shoes.
37
皇后之服三：
The empress had three sets of dress:
38
褘衣者，受冊、助祭、朝會大事之服也。 深青織成為之，畫翬，赤質，五色，十二等。 素紗中單，黼領，朱羅縠褾、襈，蔽膝隨裳色，以緅領為緣，用翟為章，三等。 青衣，革帶、大帶隨衣色，裨、紐約、佩、綬如天子，青韈，舄加金飾。
The hui robe was worn for receiving investiture, assisting at sacrifice, and major court assemblies. It was woven deep azure, painted with pheasant motifs on a red ground in five colors and twelve grades. It had a plain gauze inner robe, fu collar, vermilion silk gauze cuffs and placket, knee-guard matching the skirt, dark-red collar trim, and pheasant emblems in three grades. The coat was azure; leather and great belts matched the garment; flaps, knot fasteners, pendant, and sash followed the Son of Heaven's model; azure socks; shoes with gold fittings.
39
鞠衣者，親蠶之服也。 黃羅為之，不畫，蔽膝、大帶、革帶、舄隨衣色，餘同褘衣。
The ju robe was worn when the empress personally tended the silkworms. It was yellow silk without painting; knee-guard, great belt, leather belt, and shoes matched the garment; otherwise like the hui robe.
40
鈿釵襢衣者，燕見賓客之服也。 十二鈿，服用雜色而不畫，加雙佩小綬，去舄加履，首飾大小華十二樹，以象衮冕之旒，又有兩博鬢。
The studded hairpin and shan robe was worn for banquets and receiving guests. It bore twelve studs, mixed-color dress without painted emblems, double pendant and small sash, slippers instead of shoes, and a headdress of twelve large and small blossom trees echoing the gun miǎn tassels, with two broad side-locks.
41
皇太子之服六：
The heir apparent had six sets of dress:
42
衮冕者，從祀、謁廟、加元服、納妃之服也。 白珠九旒，紅絲組為纓，犀簪導，青纊充耳。 黑衣纁裳，凡九章：龍、山、華蟲、火、宗彝在衣，藻、粉米、黼、黻在裳。 白紗中單，黼領，青褾、襈、裾。 革帶金鉤䚢，大帶，瑜玉雙佩。 朱組雙大綬，朱質，赤、白、縹、紺為純，長一丈八尺，廣九寸，三百二十首。 黻隨裳色，有火、山二章。 白韈，赤舄，朱履，加金塗銀釦飾。 鹿盧玉具劍如天子。
The gun robe and miǎn crown were worn when following sacrifice, visiting the temple, receiving the capping, or receiving a consort. The crown had nine white pearl tassels, red silk chin straps, rhinoceros hairpin guide, and azure huang ear-fillers. Black coat and xuan skirt bore nine emblems: dragon, mountain, flowering creature, fire, and ancestral vessels on the coat; waterweed, grain, fu, and fu on the skirt. He wore a white gauze inner robe with fu collar and azure cuffs, placket, and hem. His leather belt had a gold hook clasp; he wore a great belt and fine jade double pendant. A vermilion-group double great sash of vermilion ground bordered in red, white, piao, and dark blue measured one zhang eight chi by nine cun with three hundred twenty tassels. The fu apron matched the skirt, bearing fire and mountain in two panels. He wore white socks, red shoes, and vermilion slippers with gold-plated silver stud fittings. His Deer-Lu sword with jade fittings matched the Son of Heaven's.
43
遠遊冠者，謁廟、還宮、元日朔日入朝、釋奠之服也。 以具服，遠遊冠三梁，加金博山，附蟬九首，施珠翠，黑介幘，髮纓翠緌，犀簪導，絳紗袍，紅裳，白紗中單，黑領、褾、襈、裾，白裙、襦，白假帶，方心曲領，絳紗蔽膝，白韈，黑舄。 朔日入朝，通服絝褶。
The Far-Traveling Crown was worn for temple visits, return to the palace, New Year and first-of-month court, and libation-of-paste rites. Full dress paired the three-ridged Far-Traveling Crown with gold Bo Mountain, nine cicada heads, pearl and kingfisher ornament, black kerchief, kingfisher-tasseled hair cords, rhinoceros hairpin guide, deep-red gauze robe, red skirt, white gauze inner robe with black collar, cuffs, placket, and hem, white skirt and jacket, white false belt, square heart and curved collar, deep-red gauze knee-guard, white socks, and black shoes. On first-of-month court days he wore trousers and pleated coat throughout.
44
公服者，五日常朝、元日冬至受朝之服也。 遠遊冠，絳紗單衣，白裙、襦，革帶金鉤䚢，假帶，瑜玉隻佩，方心，紛，金縷鞶囊，純長六尺四寸，廣二寸四分，色如大綬。
Court dress was worn for the five routine court days and for New Year and winter-solstice congratulations. It comprised the Far-Traveling Crown, deep-red gauze single robe, white skirt and jacket, leather belt with gold hook clasp, false belt, fine jade single pendant, square heart, fen, gold-thread pan bag six chi four cun by two cun four fen matching the great sash color.
45
烏紗冒者，視事及燕見賓客之服也。 白裙、襦，烏皮履。
The black gauze cap was worn for routine business and for banquets with guests. It was worn with white skirt and jacket and black leather shoes.
46
弁服者，朔望視事之服也。 鹿皮為之，犀簪導，組纓九𤪌，絳紗衣，素裳，革帶，鞶囊，小綬，雙佩。 自具服以下，皆白韈，烏皮履。
The bian dress was worn for conducting business on the first and fifteenth of the month. It was deerskin with rhinoceros hairpin guide, nine-tasseled group cords, deep-red gauze coat, plain skirt, leather belt, pan bag, small sash, and double pendant. From full dress downward, all sets used white socks and black leather shoes.
47
平巾幘者，乘馬之服也。 金飾，犀簪導，紫裙，白袴，起梁珠寶鈿帶，鞾。 進德冠者，亦乘馬之服也。 九𤪌，加金飾，有袴褶，常服則有白裙、襦。
The flat kerchief was riding dress. It bore gold ornament, rhinoceros hairpin guide, purple skirt, white trousers, raised-ridge jeweled studded belt, and boots. The Advance-in-Virtue Crown was also riding dress. It had nine tassels and gold ornament, with trousers and pleated coat; everyday wear added white skirt and jacket.
48
皇太子妃之服有三：
The heir apparent's consort had three sets of dress:
49
褕翟者，受冊、助祭、朝會大事之服也。 青織成，文為搖翟，青質，五色九等。 素紗中單，黼領，朱羅縠褾、襈，蔽膝隨裳色，用緅為領緣，以翟為章二等。 青衣，革帶、大帶隨衣色，不朱裏，青韈，舄加金飾，佩、綬如皇太子。
The yu-di robe was worn for receiving investiture, assisting at sacrifice, and major court assemblies. It was azure weave with swaying-pheasant pattern on an azure ground in five colors and nine grades. It had plain gauze inner robe, fu collar, vermilion silk gauze cuffs and placket, knee-guard matching the skirt, dark-red collar border, and pheasant emblems in two grades. The coat was azure; leather and great belts matched the garment without vermilion lining; azure socks; gold-fitted shoes; pendant and sash like the heir apparent's.
50
鞠衣者，從蠶之服也。 以黃羅為之，制如褕翟，無雉，蔽膝、大帶隨衣色。
The ju robe was worn when following the empress to the silkworms. It was yellow silk like the yu-di but without pheasant motifs; knee-guard and great belt matched the garment.
51
鈿釵襢衣者，燕見賓客之服也。 九鈿，其服用雜色，制如鞠衣，加雙佩，小綬，去舄加履，首飾花九樹，有兩博鬢。
The studded hairpin and shan robe was worn for banquets and receiving guests. It bore nine studs and mixed-color dress like the ju robe, with double pendant and small sash, slippers instead of shoes, a nine-blossom headdress, and two broad side-locks.
52
羣臣之服二十有一：
Ministers had twenty-one sets of dress:
53
衮冕者，一品之服也。 九旒，青𤪌為珠，貫三采玉，以組為纓，色如其綬。 青纊充耳，寶飾角簪導。 青衣纁裳，九章：龍、山、華蟲、火、宗彝在衣，藻、粉米、黼、黻在裳，皆絳為繡遍衣。 白紗中單，黼領，青褾、襈、裾。 朱韈，赤舄。 革帶鉤䚢，大帶，黻隨裳色。 金寶玉飾劍鏢首，山玄玉佩。 綠綟綬，綠質，綠、紫、黃、赤為純，長一丈八尺，廣九寸，二百四十首。 郊祀太尉攝事亦服之。
The gun robe and miǎn crown were first-rank dress. The crown had nine tassels of azure beads strung with three-colored jade, with group chin straps colored like the sash. It had azure huang ear-fillers and treasure-ornament horn hairpin guide. Azure coat and xuan skirt bore nine emblems—dragon, mountain, flowering creature, fire, and ancestral vessels on the coat; waterweed, grain, fu, and fu on the skirt—all embroidered in deep red across the garment. He wore white gauze inner robe with fu collar and azure cuffs, placket, and hem. Vermilion socks and red shoes completed the set. Leather belt with hook clasp, great belt, and fu apron matching the skirt. The sword bore gold, treasure, and jade dart-head ornament; the pendant was mountain-dark jade. A green silk sash of green ground bordered in green, purple, yellow, and red measured one zhang eight chi by nine cun with two hundred forty tassels. At suburban sacrifice the Grand Marshal, when substituting, wore it as well.
54
鷩冕者，二品之服也。 八旒，青衣纁裳，七章：華蟲、火、宗彝在衣； 藻、粉米、黼、黻在裳，銀裝劍，佩水蒼玉，紫綬、紫質，紫、黃、赤為純，長一丈六尺，廣八寸，一百八十首。 革帶之後有金鏤鞶囊，金飾劍，水蒼玉佩，朱韈，赤舄。
The bi robe and miǎn crown were second-rank dress. Eight tassels; azure coat and xuan skirt with seven emblems—flowering creature, fire, and ancestral vessels on the coat; waterweed, grain, fu, and fu on the skirt; silver-fitted sword; water-dark jade pendant; purple sash of purple ground bordered in purple, yellow, and red, one zhang six chi by eight cun with one hundred eighty tassels. Behind the leather belt hung a gold openwork pan bag; he wore a gold-ornament sword, water-dark jade pendant, vermilion socks, and red shoes.
55
毳冕者，三品之服也。 七旒，寶飾角簪導，五章：宗彝、藻、粉米在衣； 黼、黻在裳。 韍二章：山、火。 紫綬如二品，金銀鏤鞶囊，金飾劍，水蒼玉佩，朱韈，赤舄。
The cui robe and miǎn crown were third-rank dress. Seven tassels and treasure-ornament horn hairpin guide; five emblems—ancestral vessels, waterweed, and grain on the coat; fu and fu on the skirt. The knee-guard bore two panels: mountain and fire. Purple sash like second rank; gold and silver openwork pan bag; gold-ornament sword; water-dark jade pendant; vermilion socks; red shoes.
56
絺冕者，四品之服也。 六旒，三章：粉米在衣； 黼、黻在裳，中單，青領。 韍，山一章。 銀鏤鞶囊。 自三品以下皆青綬，青質，青、白、紅為純，長一丈四尺，廣七寸，一百四十首，金飾劍，水蒼玉佩，朱韈，赤舄。
The xi robe and miǎn crown were fourth-rank dress. Six tassels; three emblems—grain on the coat; fu and fu on the skirt; inner robe with azure collar. The knee-guard bore one mountain panel. A silver openwork pan bag hung at the belt. From third rank downward all used an azure sash of azure ground bordered in azure, white, and red, one zhang four chi by seven cun with one hundred forty tassels, plus gold-ornament sword, water-dark jade pendant, vermilion socks, and red shoes.
57
玄冕者，五品之服也。 以羅為之，五旒，衣、韍無章，裳刺黻一章。 角簪導，青衣纁裳，其服用紬。 大帶及裨，外黑內黃，黑綬紺質，青紺為純，長一丈二尺，廣六寸，一百二十首。 象笏，上圓下方，六品以竹木，上挫下方。 金飾劍，水蒼玉佩，朱韈，赤舄。 三品以下私祭皆服之。
The xuan robe and miǎn crown were fifth-rank dress. Made of gauze with five tassels; coat and knee-guard bore no emblems; the skirt had one embroidered fu panel. Horn hairpin guide; azure coat and xuan skirt; the garment was coarse silk. Great belt and flaps were black outside and yellow inside; black sash of dark-blue ground bordered in azure and dark blue measured one zhang two chi by six cun with one hundred twenty tassels. Ivory court tablet, round above and square below; sixth rank and below used bamboo or wood, rounded above and squared below. Gold-ornament sword, water-dark jade pendant, vermilion socks, and red shoes. Third rank and below wore it for private ancestral sacrifice.
58
平冕者，郊廟武舞郎之服也。 黑衣絳裳，革帶，烏皮履。
The level miǎn was worn by suburban and temple martial dance officers. It comprised black coat, deep-red skirt, leather belt, and black leather shoes.
59
爵弁者，六品以下九品以上從祀之服也。 以紬為之，無旒，黑纓，角簪導，青衣纁裳，白紗中單，青領、褾、襈、裾，革帶鉤䚢，大帶及裨內外皆緇，爵韠，白韈，赤履。 五品以上私祭皆服之。
The jue bian was worn by sixth rank and below through ninth rank and above when following sacrifice. Made of coarse silk without tassels, with black chin strap and horn hairpin guide; azure coat and xuan skirt; white gauze inner robe with azure collar, cuffs, placket, and hem; leather belt with hook clasp; all-black great belt and flaps; jue knee-guard; white socks; red slippers. Fifth rank and above wore it for private ancestral sacrifice.
60
武弁者，武官朝參、殿庭武舞郎、堂下鼓人、鼓吹桉工之服也。 有平巾幘，武舞緋絲布大袖，白練𧛾襠，螣蛇起梁帶，豹文大口絝，烏皮鞾。 鼓人朱褠衣，革帶，烏皮履。 鼓吹桉工加白練𧛾襠。
The martial cap was worn by military officers at court, courtyard martial dancers, hall drummers, and wind-and-drum bench workers. It included the flat kerchief; martial dancers wore deep-red silk large sleeves, white practice cross-straps, teng-snake raised-ridge belt, leopard-pattern trousers, and black leather boots. Drummers wore vermilion padded coats, leather belts, and black leather shoes. Wind-and-drum bench workers added white practice cross-straps.
61
弁服者，文官九品公事之服也。 以鹿皮為之，通用烏紗，牙簪導。 纓：一品九𤪌，二品八𤪌，三品七𤪌，四品六𤪌，五品五𤪌，犀簪導，皆朱衣素裳，革帶，鞶囊，小綬，雙佩，白韈，烏皮履。 六品以下去𤪌及鞶囊、綬、佩。 六品、七品綠衣，八品、九品青衣。
The bian dress was worn by civil officials of ninth rank and above on public business. Made of deerskin with universal black gauze and ivory hairpin guide. Chin straps ran nine tassels for first rank, eight for second, seven for third, six for fourth, five for fifth, with rhinoceros hairpin guide; all wore vermilion coat and plain skirt, leather belt, pan bag, small sash, double pendant, white socks, and black leather shoes. Sixth rank and below went without tassels, pan bag, sash, and pendant. Sixth and seventh rank wore green coats; eighth and ninth rank wore azure coats.
62
進賢冠者，文官朝參、三老五更之服也。 黑介幘，青緌。 紛長六尺四寸，廣四寸，色如其綬。 三品以上三梁，五品以上兩梁，九品以上及國官一梁，六品以下私祭皆服之。 侍中、中書令、左右散騎常侍有黃金璫，附蟬，貂尾。 侍左者左珥，侍右者右珥。 諸州大中正一梁，絳紗公服。 殿庭文舞郎，黃紗袍，黑領、襈，白練𧛾襠，白布大口絝，革帶，烏皮履。
The Advance-the-Worthy Crown was worn by civil officials at court and by the Three Elders and Five More-Aged. It was worn with black kerchief and azure tassels. The fen measured six chi four cun by four cun, matching the sash color. Third rank and above had three ridges, fifth and above two, ninth and above and state officials one; sixth rank and below wore it for private sacrifice. The Attendant-in-ordinary, Secretariat Director, and Left and Right Regular Attendants of the Scattered Cavalry wore golden ear ornaments with attached cicada and sable tail. Attendants on the left wore the left ear ornament; those on the right, the right. Provincial Grand Rectifiers wore one ridge with deep-red gauze court dress. Courtyard civil dancers wore yellow gauze robes with black collar and placket, white practice cross-straps, white cloth trousers, leather belt, and black leather shoes.
63
遠遊冠者，親王之服也。 黑介幘，三梁，青緌，金鉤䚢大帶，金寶飾劍，玉鏢首，纁朱綬，朱質，赤、黃、縹、紺為純，長一丈八尺，廣九寸，二百四十首。 黃金璫，附蟬，諸王則否。
The Far-Traveling Crown was princely dress. It paired black kerchief and three ridges with azure tassels, gold-clasp great belt, treasure-ornament sword with jade dart head, and a xuan-vermilion sash of vermilion ground bordered in red, yellow, piao, and dark blue—one zhang eight chi by nine cun with two hundred forty tassels. Imperial princes of certain rank wore golden ear ornaments with attached cicada; other princes did not.
64
法冠者，御史大夫、中丞、御史之服也。 一名解廌冠。
The Law Crown was worn by the Censor-in-chief, Vice Censor-in-chief, and investigating censors. It was also called the Xiezhi Crown.
65
高山冠者，內侍省內謁者、親王司閤、謁者之服也。
The Lofty Mountain Crown was worn by Inner Palace attendants, princes' gatekeepers, and ushers.
66
委貌冠者，郊廟文舞郎之服也。 有黑絲布大袖，白練領、褾，絳布大口絝，革帶，烏皮履。
The Wei Mao Crown was worn by suburban and temple civil dancers. They wore black silk large sleeves, white practice collar and cuffs, deep-red cloth trousers, leather belt, and black leather shoes.
67
却非冠者，亭長、門僕之服也。
The Quefei Crown was worn by pavilion chiefs and gate servants.
68
平巾幘者，武官、衞官公事之服也。 金飾，五品以上兼用玉，大口絝，烏皮鞾，白練裙、襦，起梁帶。 陪大仗，有裲襠、螣蛇。 朝集從事、州縣佐史、岳瀆祝史、外州品子、庶民任掌事者服之，有緋褶、大口絝，紫附褠。 文武官騎馬服之，則去裲襠、螣蛇。 袴褶之制：五品以上，細綾及羅為之，六品以下，小綾為之，三品以上紫，五品以上緋，七品以上綠，九品以上碧。 裲襠之制：一當胸，一當背，短袖覆膊。 螣蛇之制：以錦為表，長八尺，中實以綿，象蛇形。 起梁帶之制：三品以上，玉梁寶鈿，五品以上，金梁寶鈿，六品以下，金飾隱起而已。
The flat kerchief was public dress for military and guard officials. It bore gold ornament—fifth rank and above also jade—large trousers, black leather boots, white practice skirt and jacket, and raised-ridge belt. When escorting the great guard they added an armor vest and teng-snake streamer. Assembly clerks, prefectural and county clerks, mountain-and-river prayer officers, outside-province candidates, and commoners on official duty wore it with deep-red pleated coat, large trousers, and purple attached padded coat. Civil and military officials wore it for riding without the armor vest and teng-snake. Trousers and pleated coats for fifth rank and above were fine damask or gauze; sixth and below used small damask; colors ran purple for third rank and above, deep red for fifth, green for seventh, blue-green for ninth. The armor vest had one panel for the chest and one for the back, with short sleeves covering the upper arms. The teng-snake streamer used brocade outside, eight chi long, cotton-stuffed within, and shaped like a serpent. Raised-ridge belts for third rank and above had jade ridge and treasure studs; fifth and above gold ridge and treasure studs; sixth and below only low-relief gold ornament.
69
黑介幘者，國官視品、府佐謁府、國子大學四門生俊士參見之服也。 簪導，白紗單衣，青襟、褾、領，革帶，烏皮履。 未冠者，冠則空頂黑介幘，雙童髻，去革帶。 書算律學生、州縣學生朝參，則服烏紗冒，白裙、襦，青領。 未冠者童子髻。
The black kerchief was worn by state officials of nominal rank, prefectural assistants on prefectural visits, and outstanding Guozi Four Gates students presenting themselves. It included hairpin guide, white gauze single robe with azure lapel, cuffs, and collar, leather belt, and black leather shoes. The uncapped wore open-top black kerchief and double boy's topknots when capped, without leather belt. Writing, calculation, and law students and prefectural students at court wore black gauze cap, white skirt and jacket, and azure collar. Uncapped students wore the boy's topknot.
70
介幘者，流外官、行署三品以下、登歌工人之服也。 絳公服，以縵緋為之，制如絳紗單衣，方心曲領，革帶鉤䚢，假帶，韈，烏皮履。 九品以上則絳褠衣，制如絳公服而狹，袖形直如溝，不垂，緋褶大口絝，紫附褠，去方心曲領、假帶。 登歌工人，朱連裳，革帶，烏皮履。 殿庭加白練𧛾襠。
The kerchief was worn by outside-the-register officials, traveling-office staff of third rank and below, and hymn singers. Deep-red court dress of plain deep-red silk followed the deep-red gauze single robe with square heart and curved collar, leather belt hook clasp, false belt, socks, and black leather shoes. Ninth rank and above wore a deep-red padded coat like court dress but narrower, with straight non-hanging sleeves, deep-red pleated trousers, purple attached padding, and no square heart, curved collar, or false belt. Hymn singers wore vermilion linked robes, leather belts, and black leather shoes. In the courtyard they added white practice cross-straps.
71
平巾綠幘者，尚食局主膳，典膳局典食，太官署、食官署供膳、奉觶之服也。 青絲布絝褶。 羊車小史，五辮髻，紫碧腰襻，青耳屩。 漏刻生、漏童，總角髻，皆青絲布絝褶。
The green-banded flat kerchief was worn by chief cooks of the Bureau of Imperial Viands, food officers of the Bureau of Palace Viands, and food preparers and cup bearers of the Grand Steward and Food Service bureaus. They wore azure silk trousers and pleated coat. Goat-chariot clerks wore five-plait topknots, purple-and-blue waist sashes, and azure ear slippers. Clepsydra students and boys wore total-angle topknots and azure silk trousers and pleated coats.
72
具服者，五品以上陪祭、朝饗、拜表、大事之服也，亦曰朝服。 冠幘，簪導，絳紗單衣，白紗中單，黑領、袖，黑褾、襈、裾，白裙、襦，革帶金鉤䚢，假帶，曲領方心，絳紗蔽膝，白韈，烏皮舄，劍，紛，鞶囊，雙佩，雙綬。 六品以下去劍、佩、綬，七品以上以白筆代簪，八品、九品去白筆，白紗中單，以履代舄。
Full dress was worn by fifth rank and above for accompanying sacrifice, morning banquets, memorial presentation, and major affairs—also called court dress. It comprised crown and kerchief, hairpin guide, deep-red gauze single robe, white gauze inner robe with black collar, sleeves, cuffs, placket, and hem, white skirt and jacket, gold-clasp leather belt, false belt, curved collar and square heart, deep-red gauze knee-guard, white socks, black leather shoes, sword, fen, pan bag, double pendant, and double sash. Sixth rank and below went without sword, pendant, and sash; seventh and above substituted a white brush for the hairpin; eighth and ninth dropped the brush; all used white gauze inner robe and slippers instead of shoes.
73
從省服者，五品以上公事、朔望朝謁、見東宮之服也，亦曰公服。 冠幘纓，簪導，絳紗單衣，白裙、襦，革帶鉤䚢，假帶，方心，韈，履，紛，鞶囊，雙佩，烏皮履。 六品以下去紛、鞶囊、雙佩。 三品以上有公爵者，嫡子之婚，假絺冕。 五品以上子孫，九品以上子，爵弁。 庶人婚，假絳公服。
Reduced dress was worn by fifth rank and above for public business, first-and-fifteenth court days, and audiences with the heir apparent—also called court dress. It comprised crown, kerchief, and chin strap, hairpin guide, deep-red gauze single robe, white skirt and jacket, leather belt with hook clasp, false belt, square heart, socks, slippers, fen, pan bag, double pendant, and black leather shoes. Sixth rank and below went without fen, pan bag, and double pendant. Third rank and above holding a ducal title lent the xi miǎn for a principal son's wedding. Descendants of fifth rank and above and sons of ninth rank and above wore the jue bian. Commoners at weddings borrowed deep-red court dress.
74
命婦之服六：
Wives holding titles by imperial grant had six sets of dress:
75
翟衣者，內命婦受冊、從蠶、朝會，外命婦嫁及受冊、從蠶、大朝會之服也。 青質，繡翟，編次於衣及裳，重為九等。 青紗中單，黼領，朱縠褾、襈、裾，蔽膝隨裳色，以緅為領緣，加文繡，重雉為章二等。 大帶隨衣色，以青衣，革帶，青韈，舄，佩，綬，兩博鬢飾以寶鈿。 一品翟九等，花釵九樹； 二品翟八等，花釵八樹； 三品翟七等，花釵七樹； 四品翟六等，花釵六樹； 五品翟五等，花釵五樹。 寶鈿視花樹之數。
The di robe was worn by inner-title wives for investiture, following the silkworms, and court; by outer-title wives for marriage, investiture, following silkworms, and great assemblies. It was azure ground with embroidered pheasant arrayed in nine graded rows on coat and skirt. It had azure gauze inner robe, fu collar, vermilion gauze cuffs, placket, and hem, knee-guard matching the skirt, dark-red collar border, added patterned embroidery, and double pheasant emblems in two grades. Great belt matched the garment; azure coat; leather belt; azure socks and shoes; pendant and sash; two broad side-locks with treasure studs. First rank: di in nine grades, blossom hairpin of nine trees; second rank: eight grades and eight trees; third rank: seven and seven; fourth rank: six and six; fifth rank: five and five. Treasure studs matched the number of blossom trees.
76
鈿釵禮衣者，內命婦常參、外命婦朝參、辭見、禮會之服也。 制同翟衣，加雙佩、小綬，去舄，加履。 一品九鈿，二品八鈿，三品七鈿，四品六鈿，五品五鈿。
The studded hairpin ceremonial robe was worn by inner-title wives at routine attendance and by outer-title wives for court, farewell audiences, and ceremonial gatherings. Like the di robe, it added double pendant and small sash and substituted slippers for shoes. Studs ran nine for first rank, eight for second, seven for third, six for fourth, five for fifth.
77
禮衣者，六尚、寶林、御女、采女、女官七品以上大事之服也。 通用雜色，制如鈿釵禮衣，唯無首飾、佩、綬。
The ceremonial robe was worn by the Six Bureaus, Treasure Forest, palace women, selected women, and female officials of seventh rank and above on major occasions. It used mixed colors like the studded hairpin ceremonial robe but without head ornament, pendant, or sash.
78
公服者，常供奉之服也。 去中單、蔽膝、大帶，九品以上大事、常供奉亦如之。 半袖裙襦者，東宮女史常供奉之服也。 公主、王妃佩、綬同諸王。
Court dress was routine attendance dress. It omitted inner robe, knee-guard, and great belt; ninth rank and above did the same for major affairs and routine attendance. Half-sleeve skirt and jacket was worn by Eastern Palace female clerks on routine attendance. Princesses and imperial sons' consorts used pendant and sash like princes.
79
花釵禮衣者，親王納妃所給之服也。
The blossom hairpin ceremonial robe was granted when an imperial prince received a consort.
80
大袖連裳者，六品以下妻，九品以上女嫁服也。 青質，素紗中單，蔽膝、大帶、革帶，韈、履同裳色，花釵，覆笄，兩博鬢，以金銀雜寶飾之。 庶人女嫁有花釵，以金銀琉璃塗飾之。 連裳，青質，青衣，革帶，韈、履同裳色。
The large-sleeve linked robe was marriage dress for wives below sixth rank and daughters of ninth rank and above. Azure ground, plain gauze inner robe, knee-guard, great belt, and leather belt, socks and slippers matching the skirt, blossom hairpin, covered hairpin, two broad side-locks ornamented in gold, silver, and jewels. Commoner brides wore blossom hairpins ornamented in gold, silver, and glazed coating. The linked robe was azure throughout—coat, leather belt, socks, and slippers matching the skirt.
81
婦人燕服視夫。 百官女嫁、廟見攝母服。 五品以上媵降妻一等，妾降媵一等，六品以下妾降妻一等。
Women's informal dress followed their husbands' rank. Officials' daughters at marriage and acting as mother at temple audience dressed by the corresponding rules. From fifth rank up, secondary wives ranked one grade below the wife and concubines one below secondary wives; from sixth rank down, concubines ranked one grade below the wife.
82
天子有傳國璽及八璽，皆玉為之。 神璽以鎮中國，藏而不用。 受命璽以封禪禮神，皇帝行璽以報王公書，皇帝之璽以勞王公，皇帝信璽以召王公，天子行璽以報四夷書，天子之璽以勞四夷，天子信璽以召兵四夷，皆泥封。 大朝會則符璽郎進神璽、受命璽於御座，行幸則合八璽為五輿，函封從於黃鉞之內。
The Son of Heaven possessed the transmission-of-the-realm seal and eight jade seals. The Spirit Seal that stabilized the Central Kingdom was kept in store and never used. The Mandate-Receiving Seal served feng, shan, and spirit sacrifice; the Emperor's Progress Seal answered letters to princes and dukes; the Emperor's Seal rewarded them; the Emperor's Trust Seal summoned them; the Son of Heaven's Progress Seal answered the four quarters; the Son of Heaven's Seal rewarded them; the Son of Heaven's Trust Seal summoned their troops—all sealed with mud. At great assemblies the Seal Officer presented the Spirit and Mandate-Receiving seals to the throne; on progress the eight seals were packed into five cases, sealed, and borne within the yellow battle-axe escort.
83
太皇太后、皇太后、皇后、皇太子及妃，璽皆金為之，藏而不用。 太皇太后、皇太后封令書以宮官印，皇后以內侍省印，皇太子以左春坊印，妃以內坊印。
The Grand Empress Dowager, Empress Dowager, Empress, heir apparent, and consort all had gold seals kept in store unused. The Grand Empress Dowager and Empress Dowager used palace-official seals on commands; the Empress the Inner Service seal; the heir apparent the Left Spring Palace seal; the consort the Inner Quarters seal.
84
初，太宗刻受命玄璽，以白玉為螭首，文曰：「皇天景命，有德者昌。」 至武后改諸璽皆為寶。 中宗即位，復為璽。 開元六年，復為寶。 天寶初，改璽書為寶書。 十載，改傳國寶為承天大寶。
At first Taizong carved the Mandate-Receiving Dark Seal with a white jade dragon head inscribed: "August Heaven's bright mandate — the virtuous shall flourish." Empress Wu later changed all seals to treasures. Zhongzong restored them to seals on his accession. In Kaiyuan year 6 they were again termed treasures. At the start of Tianbao, seal documents became treasure documents. In year 10 the transmission treasure was renamed the Receive-Heaven Great Treasure.
85
初，高祖入長安，罷隋竹使符，班銀菟符，其後改為銅魚符，以起軍旅、易守長，京都留守、折衝府、捉兵鎮守之所及左右金吾、宮苑總監、牧監皆給之。 畿內則左三右一，畿外則左五右一，左者進內，右者在外，用始第一，周而復始。 宮殿門、城門，給交魚符、巡魚符。 左廂、右廂給開門符、閉門符。 亦左符進內，右符監門掌之。 蕃國亦給之，雄雌各十二，銘以國名，雄者進內，雌者付其國。 朝貢使各齎其月魚而至，不合者劾奏。
When Gaozu first entered Chang'an he abolished Sui bamboo tallies and issued silver hare tokens; later these became bronze fish tallies to mobilize troops and replace prefects and magistrates—issued to the capital garrison, defense commands, garrisons, Left and Right Gold Crow guards, palace parks, chief stewards, and pasture supervisors. Inside the capital there were three left tallies and one right; outside, five left and one right—the left set went inward, the right stayed out, numbered from one and cycling. Palace and city gates received intersecting fish and patrol fish tokens. Left and right wings received open-gate and close-gate tokens. Again the left tally went inward and the right was held by gate wardens. Foreign states received them too—twelve male and twelve female, inscribed with the state name; males went inward, females to the state. Tribute envoys each brought that month's fish tally; mismatches were impeached.
86
傳信符者，以給郵驛，通制命。 皇太子監國給雙龍符，左右皆十。 兩京、北都留守給麟符，左二十，右十九。 東方諸州給青龍符，南方諸州朱雀符，西方諸州騶虞符，北方諸州玄武符，皆左四右三。 左者進內，右者付外。 行軍所亦給之。
Transmission tokens were issued to postal stations to convey imperial orders. When the heir apparent supervised the realm he received double-dragon tokens, ten left and ten right. Garrisons of the two capitals and Northern Capital received qilin tokens—twenty left, nineteen right. Eastern provinces received azure-dragon tokens, southern vermilion-bird, western zouyu, northern black-tortoise—four left and three right each. Left tallies went inward; right tallies were issued outward. Field headquarters received them as well.
87
隨身魚符者，以明貴賤，應召命，左二右一，左者進內，右者隨身。 皇太子以玉契召，勘合乃赴。 親王以金，庶官以銅，皆題某位姓名。 官有貳者加左右，皆盛以魚袋，三品以上飾以金，五品以上飾以銀。 刻姓名者，去官納之，不刻者傳佩相付。
Personal fish tokens marked rank and answered summons: two left, one right—the left went inward, the right was worn on the person. The heir apparent summoned with a jade tally; attendance followed only after verification. Imperial princes used gold tallies, common officials copper, each inscribed with office and name. Duplicate posts added left and right tallies, all kept in fish bags—gold for third rank and above, silver for fifth and above. Engraved tallies were surrendered on leaving office; unengraved ones passed from holder to holder.
88
有傳符、銅魚符者，給封符印，發驛、封符及封魚函用之。 有銅魚而無傳符者，給封函，還符、封函用之。
Holders of transmission and bronze fish tokens received seal tokens for couriers, sealed dispatches, and sealed fish cases. Those with bronze fish but no transmission token received seal cases for returning tokens and sealing correspondence.
89
天子巡幸，則京師、東都留守給留守印，諸司從行者，給行從印。
On imperial tours the capital and Luoyang garrisons received garrison seals; accompanying offices received progress seals.
90
木契符者，以重鎮守、慎出納，畿內左右皆三，畿外左右皆五。 皇帝巡幸，太子監國，有軍旅之事則用之，王公征討皆給焉，左右各十九。 太極殿前刻漏所，亦以左契給之，右以授承天門監門，晝夜勘合，然後鳴鼓。 玄武門苑內諸門有喚人木契，左以進內，右以授監門，有敕召者用之。 魚契所降，皆有敕書。 尚書省符，與左同乃用。
Wooden tally tokens secured major garrisons and controlled receipts and disbursements—three left and three right inside the capital, five each side outside. They were used when the emperor toured, the heir apparent supervised the realm, or military affairs arose; campaigning princes and dukes each received nineteen left and right. The clepsydra office before the Hall of Supreme Ultimate held the left tally; the right went to Chengtian Gate wardens—drums sounded only after day-and-night verification. Inner gates of the Xuanwu park had summoning wooden tallies—left inward, right to gate wardens—for edict summons. Every fish tally issued downward came with an edict. Ministry tokens were valid only when matched to the left tally.
91
大將出，賜旌以顓賞，節以顓殺。 旌以絳帛五丈，粉畫虎，有銅龍一，首纏緋幡，紫縑為袋，油囊為表。 節，懸畫木盤三，相去數寸，隅垂赤麻，餘與旌同。
Departing great generals received banners for conspicuous reward and staffs for conspicuous execution. The banner was five zhang of deep-red silk powder-painted with a tiger, bearing one bronze dragon, deep-red pennant at the head, purple silk bag, and oilskin cover. The staff suspended three painted wooden disks several cun apart with red hemp at the corners; otherwise like the banner.
92
高宗給五品以上隨身魚銀袋，以防召命之詐，出內必合之。 三品以上金飾袋。 垂拱中，都督、刺史始賜魚。 天授二年，改佩魚皆為龜。 其後三品以上龜袋飾以金，四品以銀，五品以銅。 中宗初，罷龜袋，復給以魚。 郡王、嗣王亦佩金魚袋。 景龍中，令特進佩魚，散官佩魚自此始也。 然員外、試、檢校官，猶不佩魚。 景雲中，詔衣紫者魚袋以金飾之，衣緋者以銀飾之。 開元初，駙馬都尉從五品者假紫、金魚袋，都督、刺史品卑者假緋、魚袋，五品以上檢校、試、判官皆佩魚。 中書令張嘉貞奏，致仕者佩魚終身，自是百官賞緋、紫，必兼魚袋，謂之章服。 當時服朱紫、佩魚者眾矣。
Gaozong gave fifth rank and above silver personal-fish bags against fraudulent summons; they had to match when leaving the palace. Third rank and above used gold-ornament bags. During the Chuigong reign period, military commissioners and prefects first received fish tokens. In Tian-shou year 2 fish tokens became tortoise tokens. Thereafter third rank and above had gold-ornament tortoise bags, fourth silver, fifth copper. At Zhongzong's accession tortoise bags were abolished and fish restored. Heir-presumptive and successor princes also wore gold fish bags. In the Jinglong era specially advanced officials were ordered to wear fish—honorary officials' fish tokens began then. Supernumerary, probationary, and acting officials still did not wear fish. In the Jingyun era those in purple used gold-ornament fish bags and those in deep red silver-ornament bags. Early Kaiyuan saw fifth-rank consorts of sons-in-law in borrowed purple and gold fish bags, low-rank commissioners and prefects in borrowed deep red and fish, and fifth-rank acting and probationary officials all wearing fish. Zhang Jiazhen memorialized that retirees kept fish for life; thereafter deep-red or purple rewards always included fish bags—regalia dress. Many officials then wore vermilion, purple, and fish.
93
初，隋文帝聽朝之服，以赭黃文綾袍，烏紗冒，折上巾，六合鞾，與貴臣通服。 唯天子之帶有十三鐶，文官又有平頭小樣巾，百官常服同於庶人。
Originally Emperor Wen of Sui wore an ochre-yellow patterned silk robe, black gauze cap, folded-up kerchief, and six-combination boots—the same as noble ministers. Only the Son of Heaven's belt had thirteen rings; civil officials had the flat small-pattern kerchief; everyday official dress matched commoners'.
94
至唐高祖，以赭黃袍、巾帶為常服。 腰帶者，搢垂頭於下，名曰䤩尾，取順下之義。 一品、二品銙以金，六品以上以犀，九品以上以銀，庶人以鐵。 既而天子袍衫稍用赤、黃，遂禁臣民服。 親王及三品、二王後，服大科綾羅，色用紫，飾以玉。 五品以上服小科綾羅，色用朱，飾以金。 六品以上服絲布交梭雙紃綾，色用黃。 六品、七品服用綠，飾以銀。 八品、九品服用青，飾以鍮石。 勳官之服，隨其品而加佩刀、礪、紛、帨。 流外官、庶人、部曲、奴婢，則服紬絹絁布，色用黃白，飾以鐵、銅。
Under Tang Gaozu the ochre-yellow robe and kerchief belt became everyday dress. Belt tabs hung below as a "stepping tail," signifying submission downward. First and second rank used gold belt plaques; sixth and above rhinoceros; ninth and above silver; commoners iron. Later the emperor's robes used more red and yellow, and subjects were forbidden those hues. Imperial princes, third rank, and second-rank princes' consorts wore large-pattern silk gauze in purple with jade ornament. Fifth rank and above wore small-pattern silk gauze in vermilion with gold ornament. Sixth rank and above wore cross-weave double-cord silk gauze in yellow. Sixth and seventh rank wore green with silver ornament. Eighth and ninth rank wore azure with copper-tin ornament. Merit officials dressed by rank, adding sword, whetstone, fen, and sash. Outside-register officials, commoners, dependents, and slaves wore coarse silk, ramie, and cloth in yellow-white with iron and copper ornament.
95
太宗時，又命七品服龜甲雙巨十花綾，色用綠。 九品服絲布雜綾，色用青。 是時士人以棠苧襴衫為上服，貴女功之始也。 一命以黃，再命以黑，三命以纁，四命以綠，五命以紫。 士服短褐，庶人以白。 中書令馬周上議：「禮無服衫之文，三代之制有深衣。 請加襴、袖、褾、襈，為士人上服。 開骻者名曰缺骻衫，庶人服之。」 又請：「裹頭者，左右各三襵，以象三才，重繫前脚，以象二儀。」 詔皆從之。 太尉長孫无忌又議：「服袍者下加襴，緋、紫、綠皆視其品，庶人以白。」
Taizong also ordered seventh rank to wear tortoise-armor double-giant ten-blossom silk gauze in green. Ninth rank wore mixed-pattern silk cloth in azure. Scholars then favored the tang ramie openwork shirt as upper dress, honoring the origin of women's weaving. Rank colors ran yellow for first appointment, black for second, xuan for third, green for fourth, purple for fifth. Scholars wore short brown; commoners white. Ma Zhou memorialized: "Ritual has no provision for shirt dress; the three dynasties used deep robes. Please add openwork, sleeves, cuffs, and placket as scholars' upper dress. Open-fork garments should be called open-fork shirts for commoners. He also requested wrapped headcloths with three folds left and right for the three powers, doubled and tied at the brow for the two principles." The edicts approved all of this. Zhangsun Wuji proposed: "Robe wearers should add openwork below; deep red, purple, and green by rank; commoners white."
96
太宗嘗以幞頭起於後周，便武事者也。 方天下偃兵，採古制為翼善冠，自服之。 又製進德冠以賜貴臣，玉𤪌，制如弁服，以金飾梁，花趺，三品以上加金絡，五品以上附山雲。 自是元日、冬至、朔、望視朝，服翼善冠，衣白練裙襦。 常服則有袴褶與平巾幘，通用翼善冠。 進德冠制如幞頭，皇太子乘馬則服進德冠，九𤪌，加金飾，犀簪導，亦有絝褶，燕服用紫。 其後朔、望視朝，仍用弁服。
Taizong noted that the futou arose in Later Zhou for military convenience. When the empire was at peace he modeled the Beneficent Crown on antiquity and wore it himself. He also created the Advance-in-Virtue Crown for noble ministers—jade tassels like bian dress, gold-ornament ridge and floral base; third rank and above added gold net; fifth and above mountain and cloud. Thereafter on New Year, winter solstice, and first- and fifteenth-day court he wore the Beneficent Crown with white practice skirt and jacket. Everyday dress paired trousers, pleated coat, and flat kerchief with the Beneficent Crown. The Advance-in-Virtue Crown resembled the futou; the heir apparent wore it for riding with nine tassels, gold ornament, rhinoceros hairpin guide, and trousers and pleated coat; banquets called for purple. Later he still used bian dress for first- and fifteenth-day court.
97
顯慶元年，長孫无忌等曰：「武德初，撰衣服令，天子祀天地服大裘冕。 桉周郊被衮以象天，戴冕藻十有二旒，與大裘異。 月令：孟冬，天子始裘以禦寒。 若啟蟄祈穀、冬至報天，服裘可也。 季夏迎氣，龍見而雩，如之何可服？ 故歷代唯服衮章。 漢明帝始采周官、禮記制祀天地之服，天子備十二章，後魏、周、隋皆如之。 伏請郊祀天地服衮冕，罷大裘。 又新禮，皇帝祭社稷服絺冕，四旒，三章； 祭日月服玄冕，三旒，衣無章。 按令文，四品、五品之服也。 三公亞獻皆服衮，孤卿服毳、鷩，是天子同於大夫，君少臣多，非禮之中。 且天子十二為節以法天，烏有四旒三章之服？ 若諸臣助祭，冕與王同，是貴賤無分也。 若降王一等，則王服玄冕，羣臣服爵弁，既屈天子，又貶公卿。 周禮此文，久不用矣，猶祭祀之有尸侑，以君親而拜臣子。 硩蔟、蟈氏之職，不通行者蓋多，故漢魏承用衮冕。 今新禮親祭日月，服五品之服，請循歷代故事，諸祭皆用衮冕。」 制曰：「可。」 无忌等又曰：「禮，皇帝為諸臣及五服親舉哀，素服，今服白袷，禮令乖舛。 且白袷出近代，不可用。」 乃改以素服。 自是鷩冕以下，天子不復用，而白袷廢矣。
In Xianqing year 1 Zhangsun Wuji and others said: "In early Wude the Dress Code had the Son of Heaven sacrifice to Heaven and Earth in Great Fur miǎn. Zhou rites had suburban sacrifice in gun robe symbolizing Heaven and miǎn with twelve waterweed tassels—unlike Great Fur. The Monthly Ordinances say mid-winter was when the Son of Heaven first donned fur against the cold. Fur would suit the insect-awakening grain prayer or winter-solstice heaven report. But late-summer season reception, dragon appearance, and rain prayer—how could fur be worn then? Hence successive ages wore only gun regalia. Han Emperor Ming first used Zhou offices and the Rites for Heaven-and-Earth sacrifice dress with twelve emblems; later Wei, Northern Zhou, and Sui followed. We request suburban Heaven-and-Earth sacrifice in gun miǎn and abolition of Great Fur. The new rites also had the emperor sacrifice to soil-and-grain altars in xi miǎn with four tassels and three emblems; sun and moon sacrifice in xuan miǎn with three tassels and no coat emblems. By the code, those were fourth- and fifth-rank robes. The three dukes as secondary offerers wore gun while ministers wore cui and bi—making the Son of Heaven equal to grand masters, contrary to proper hierarchy. The Son of Heaven's twelve sections symbolize Heaven—how could he wear four tassels and three sections? If assisting ministers' miǎn matched the king's, rank was undivided. Lowering the king one grade would put xuan miǎn on the king and jue bian on ministers—humbling both throne and high ministers. That Zhou-rites text had long fallen out of use, like retaining corpse and surrogate rites where the lord bows to ministers as kin. Many offices like reed-shield and frog-catcher were no longer practiced; Han and Wei therefore kept gun miǎn. The new rites had the emperor sacrifice to sun and moon in fifth-rank dress; we ask to follow precedent and use gun miǎn for all sacrifices." The decree read: "Approved. Wuji also said: "Rites required plain dress when the emperor mourned ministers and five-degree kin; the white lined coat conflicted with ritual. The white lined coat was a recent invention and should not be used." Plain dress was adopted instead. Thereafter the Son of Heaven abandoned bi miǎn and below, and the white lined coat was abolished.
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其後以紫為三品之服，金玉帶銙十三； 緋為四品之服，金帶銙十一； 淺緋為五品之服，金帶銙十； 深綠為六品之服，淺綠為七品之服，皆銀帶銙九； 深青為八品之服，淺青為九品之服，皆鍮石帶銙八； 黃為流外官及庶人之服，銅鐵帶銙七。
Later purple became third-rank dress with jade-gold belt of thirteen plaques; deep red fourth-rank dress with gold belt of eleven plaques; light deep red fifth-rank dress with gold belt of ten plaques; dark green sixth-rank and light green seventh-rank both used silver belts of nine plaques; dark azure eighth-rank and light azure ninth-rank both used copper-tin belts of eight plaques; yellow for outside-register officials and commoners with copper-iron belts of seven plaques.
99
武后擅政，多賜羣臣巾子、繡袍，勒以回文之銘，皆無法度，不足紀。 至中宗又賜百官英王踣樣巾，其製高而踣，帝在藩時冠也。 其後文官以紫黑絁為巾，賜供奉官及諸司長官； 則有羅巾、圓頭巾子，後遂不改。
When Empress Wu dominated government she often bestowed kerchiefs and embroidered robes inscribed with turning text—all outside the law and not worth recording. Zhongzong bestowed on all officials the Prince of Ying stumbling-pattern kerchief—high and forward-leaning—the style he had worn as heir. Later civil officials used purple-black silk kerchiefs for palace attendants and bureau chiefs; then gauze and round-top kerchiefs, unchanged thereafter.
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初，職事官三品以上賜金裝刀、礪石，一品以下則有手巾、算袋、佩刀、礪石。 至睿宗時，罷佩刀、礪石，而武官五品以上佩䪓韘七事，佩刀、刀子、礪石、契苾真、噦厥針筒、火石是也。
Originally active third rank and above received gold-fitted knives and whetstones; first rank and below received hand towels, tally bags, swords, and whetstones. By Ruizong's reign worn swords and whetstones were abolished; fifth-rank military officials wore seven archer's-glove items—sword, knife, whetstone, qibi-zhen, wheezing needle tube, and fire stone.
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時皇太子將釋奠，有司草儀注，從臣皆乘馬著衣冠，左庶子劉子玄議曰：「古大夫乘車，以馬為騑服，魏、晉朝士駕牛車。 如李廣北征，解鞍憩息； 馬援南伐，據鞍顧眄。 則鞍馬行於軍旅，戎服所便。 江左尚書郎乘馬，則御史治之。 顏延年罷官，騎馬出入，世稱放誕。 近古專車則衣朝服，單馬則衣褻服。 皇家巡謁陵廟，冊命王公，則盛服冠履，乘路車。 士庶有以衣冠親迎者，亦時服箱。 其餘貴賤，皆以騎代車。 比者，法駕所幸，侍臣朝服乘馬。 今既舍車，而冠履不易，何者？ 褒衣、博帶、革履、高冠，車中之服也。 韈而鐙，跣而乘，非唯盭古，亦自取驚蹶。 議者以祕閣梁南郊圖，有衣冠乘馬者，此圖後人所為也。 古今圖畫多矣，如畫羣公祖二疏，而有曳芒屩者； 畫昭君入匈奴，而婦人有施帷冒者。 夫芒屩出於水鄉，非京華所有； 帷冒創於隋代，非漢宮所用。 豈可因二畫以為故實乎？ 謂乘馬衣冠宜省。」 太子從之，編於令。
When the heir apparent was to perform the libation-of-paste, ritual drafters had followers ride horses in full cap and dress; Left Assistant Liu Zixuan objected: as when Li Guang on the northern campaign unstrapped his saddle to rest; as when Ma Yuan on the southern campaign sat his saddle and looked back. Saddle and horse belong to campaigns; military dress suits them. In the Jiangzuo era Secretariat directors who rode horses were prosecuted by the censorate. Yan Yanzhi, dismissed from office, still rode in and out—the age called it unrestrained. In recent antiquity a dedicated carriage meant court dress; a single horse meant informal dress. Imperial tomb tours and investitures of princes and dukes required full dress, cap, shoes, and the state chariot. When nobles and commoners welcomed brides in cap and dress they used timely dress from the carriage box. Otherwise all ranks rode horseback instead of chariots. Recently, when the imperial guard traveled, attending ministers wore court dress on horseback. Now that the chariot is abandoned, why leave cap and shoes unchanged? Broad robes, wide belt, leather shoes, and high cap are chariot dress. Riding in socks on the stirrup or barefoot overturns antiquity and invites falls. Critics cited a Secret Archive southern-suburb painting of cap-and-dress horsemen—but that was a later painting. Paintings abound: one shows ministers seeing off the two Shus with figures in straw sandals; another shows Wang Zhaojun entering the Xiongnu with women in draped veils. Straw sandals belong to water districts, not the capital; draped veils were a Sui invention, not Han palace dress. Two paintings cannot establish ritual fact. He argued that cap-and-dress horsemanship should be abolished." The heir apparent agreed and entered it in the code.
102
開元初，將有事南郊，中書令張說請遵古制用大裘，乃命有司製二冕。 玄宗以大裘樸略，不可通寒暑，廢而不服。 自是元正朝會用衮冕、通天冠，百官朔、望朝參，外官衙日，則佩算袋，餘日則否。 玄宗謁五陵，初用素服，朔、望朝顓用常服。 弁服、翼善冠皆廢。
Early Kaiyuan, planning the southern suburb, Zhang Yue requested Great Fur by ancient precedent and two miǎn were made. Xuanzong found Great Fur too plain for seasonal use and never wore it. Thereafter New Year court used gun miǎn and Pervading Heaven Crown; officials on first-and-fifteenth court; outside officials wore tally bags only on yamen days. Xuanzong at first used plain dress for the five tombs; first-and-fifteenth audiences used everyday dress. Bian dress and the Beneficent Crown were abolished.
103
唐初，賞朱紫者服於軍中，其後軍將亦賞以假緋紫，有從戎缺骻之服，不在軍者服長袍，或無官而冒衣綠。 有詔殿中侍御史糾察。 諸衞大將軍、中郎將以下給袍者，皆易其繡文：千牛衞以瑞牛，左右衞以瑞馬，驍衞以虎，武衞以鷹，威衞以豹，領軍衞以白澤，金吾衞以辟邪。 行六品者，冠去𤪌珠，五品去鞶囊、雙佩，幞頭用羅縠。
Early Tang rewarded vermilion and purple for army wear; later commanders received borrowed deep red and purple; campaign open-fork dress existed; off-duty men wore long robes and some without rank wore green falsely. An edict ordered Palace Attendant censors to investigate. Guard units from Great General down had distinct robe embroidery: Thousand-Ox auspicious ox, Left and Right Guards auspicious horse, Valiant Cavalry tiger, Martial Guard eagle, Awesome Guard leopard, Army-leader white ze, Gold Crow demon-warder. Sixth-rank campaigners removed crown tassel pearls; fifth rank removed pan bag and double pendant; futou used gauze damask.
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婦人服從夫、子，五等以上親及五品以上母、妻，服紫衣，腰襻褾緣用錦繡。 九品以上母、妻，服朱衣。 流外及庶人不服綾、羅、縠、五色線鞾、履。 凡襇色衣不過十二破，渾色衣不過六破。
Women dressed by husband and son; fifth-rank kin and fifth-rank mothers and wives wore purple with brocade-embroidered waist sash, cuffs, and borders. Mothers and wives of ninth rank and above wore vermilion. Outside-register persons and commoners could not wear damask, gauze, openwork, five-color thread boots, or shoes. Patterned dress was limited to twelve sections; solid-color dress to six.
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二十五年，御史大夫李適之建議：「冬至、元日大禮，朝參官及六品清官服朱衣，六品以下通服絝褶。」 天寶中，御史中丞吉溫建議：「京官朔、望朝參，衣朱絝褶，五品以上有珂傘。」 德宗嘗賜節度使時服，以鵰銜綬帶，謂其行列有序，牧人有威儀也。 元和十二年，太子少師鄭餘慶言：「百官服朝服者多誤。 自今唯職事官五品兼六品以上散官者，則有佩、劍、綬，其餘皆省。」
In year 25 Li Shizhi proposed that winter-solstice and New Year great rites have attending and sixth-rank pure officials in vermilion while sixth rank and below wore trousers and pleated coat." In the Tianbao era Ji Wen proposed capital officials in vermilion trousers and pleated coat on first-and-fifteenth court, fifth rank and above with ke umbrellas. Dezong once bestowed seasonal dress on commissioners with eagle-holding-sash belts, saying ordered ranks gave shepherds dignity. In Yuanhe year 12 Zheng Yuyu said many officials erred in court dress. Henceforth only active fifth rank and honorary sixth rank and above would keep pendant, sword, and sash; others would not."
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初，婦人施羃䍦以蔽身，永徽中，始用帷冒，施裙及頸，坐檐以代乘車。 命婦朝謁，則以駝駕車。 數下詔禁而不止。 武后時，帷冒益盛，中宗後乃無復羃䍦矣。 宮人從駕，皆胡冒乘馬，海內傚之，至露髻馳騁，而帷冒亦廢，有衣男子衣而鞾，如奚、契丹之服。 武德間，婦人曳履及線鞾。 開元中，初有線鞋，侍兒則著履，奴婢服襴衫，而士女衣胡服，其後安祿山反，當時以為服妖之應。
Women first used face-covering veils; in Yonghui they adopted draped veils with skirt to the neck and sedan canopies instead of carriages. Granted wives at court used camel-drawn carriages. Repeated edicts failed to stop the practice. Under Empress Wu draped veils spread; after Zhongzong the old face veil disappeared. Palace women on guard wore Hu veils on horseback; the realm imitated them until hair was exposed in riding; veils vanished and some women wore men's clothes and boots like Xi and Khitan dress. In the Wude era women dragged shoes and thread boots. Kaiyuan introduced thread shoes; attendants wore slippers, maids openwork shirts, and gentlemen and ladies Hu dress—after An Lushan's rebellion deemed a dress omen.
107
巴、蜀婦人出入有兜籠，乾元初，蕃將又以兜籠易負，遂以代車。
Ba-Shu women used carrying baskets; early Qianyuan frontier generals replaced back-carrying with baskets, replacing carriages.
108
文宗即位，以四方車服僭奢，下詔準儀制令，品秩勳勞為等級。 職事官服綠、青、碧，勳官諸司則佩刀、礪、紛、帨。 諸親朝賀宴會之服：一品、二品服玉及通犀，三品服花犀、班犀。 車馬無飾金銀。 衣曳地不過二寸，袖不過一尺三寸。 婦人裙不過五幅，曳地不過三寸，襦袖不過一尺五寸。 袍襖之制：三品以上服綾，以鶻銜瑞草，鴈銜綬帶及雙孔雀； 四品、五品服綾，以地黃交枝； 六品以下服綾，小窠無文及隔織、獨織。 一品導從以七騎； 二品、三品以五騎； 四品以三騎； 五品以二騎； 六品以一騎。 五品以上及節度使冊拜、婚會，則車有幰。 外命婦一品、二品、三品乘金銅飾犢車，檐舁以八人，三品舁以六人； 四品、五品乘白銅飾犢車，檐舁以四人； 胥吏、商賈之妻老者乘葦軬車，兜籠舁以二人。 度支、戶部、鹽鐵門官等服細葛布，無紋綾，綠闇銀藍鐵帶，鞍、轡、銜、鐙以鍮石。 未有官者，服粗葛布、官絁，綠銅鐵帶，乘蜀馬、鐵鐙。 行官服紫粗布、絁，藍鐵帶。 中官不衣紗縠綾羅，諸司小兒不服大巾，商賈、庶人、僧、道士不乘馬。 婦人衣青碧纈、平頭小花草履、彩帛縵成履，而禁高髻、險妝、去眉、開額及吳越高頭草履。 王公之居，不施重栱、藻井。 三品堂五間九架，門三間五架； 五品堂五間七架，門三間兩架； 六品、七品堂三間五架，庶人四架，而門皆一間兩架。 常參官施懸魚、對鳳、瓦獸、通栿乳梁。 詔下，人多怨者。 京兆尹杜悰條易行者為寬限，而事遂不行。 唯淮南觀察使李德裕令管內婦人衣袖四尺者闊一尺五寸，裙曳地四五寸者減三寸。
Wenzong, finding regional carriage and dress presumptuous, ordered compliance with the ritual code graded by rank, merit, and service. Active officials wore green, azure, and blue-green; merit offices wore sword, whetstone, fen, and sash. Imperial kin at congratulations and banquets: first and second rank jade and clear rhinoceros; third rank patterned and rimmed rhinoceros. Carriages and horses bore no gold or silver ornament. Coat hems trailed no more than two cun; sleeves no more than one chi three cun. Women's skirts had no more than five panels and three cun hem; jacket sleeves no more than one chi five cun. Robes and jackets: third rank and above wore damask with hawk holding auspicious grass, goose holding sash, and paired peacocks; fourth and fifth rank damask with earth-yellow interlaced branches; sixth and below small-nest plain damask, spaced weave, or single weave. First rank: seven escort riders; second and third: five; fourth: three; fifth: two; sixth: one. Fifth rank and above and commissioners at investiture or wedding might use screened carriages. Outside-title wives of first through third rank rode gold-and-copper calf carts—eight bearers for first and second, six for third; fourth and fifth white-copper calf carts with four bearers; clerks' and merchants' elderly wives reed-canopy carts with two basket bearers. Revenue, census, and salt-iron gate officers wore fine ramie without patterned damask, green dark silver-blue iron belts, and copper-tin saddle fittings. The unappointed wore coarse ramie and official silk, green copper-iron belts, Shu horses, and iron stirrups. Traveling officers wore purple coarse cloth and silk with blue iron belts. Palace eunuchs avoided gauze damask and silk gauze; bureau boys avoided large kerchiefs; merchants, commoners, monks, and Daoists did not ride horses. Women were barred from azure-green tie-dye, flat flower-grass shoes, and colored woven shoes, and from high topknots, extreme makeup, shaved brows, open foreheads, and Wu-Yue high-head straw shoes. Princely and ducal residences could not use heavy bracketing or painted well ceilings. Third rank: five-bay nine-frame hall, three-bay five-frame gate; fifth rank: five-bay seven-frame hall, three-bay two-frame gate; sixth and seventh: three-bay five-frame hall; commoners four frames; all gates one bay two frames. Regular-attendance officials might use suspended fish, facing phoenixes, tile beasts, and through-rafter nipple beams. When the edict issued, many complained. Capital Intendant Du Cong listed easy provisions as broad limits, and the reform failed. Only Li Deyu in Huainan ordered women's four-chi sleeves narrowed to one chi five cun and skirts trailing four or five cun shortened three cun.
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開成末，定制：宰相、三公、師保、尚書令、僕射、諸司長官及致仕官，疾病許乘檐，如漢、魏載輿、步輿之制，三品以上官及刺史，有疾暫乘，不得舍驛。
Late Kaicheng fixed rules: chancellors, three dukes, tutors, protectors, Secretariat Directors, Vice Directors, bureau chiefs, and retirees when ill might use sedans like Han-Wei litters; third rank and above and prefects might ride temporarily when ill but not lodge at postal stations.
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校勘記0.85em|columns=2
Collation notes for this chapter.