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輿服一 〈(儀衛附)〉
Carriages and Clothes, Part One The gloss notes that Ceremonial Escort is appended at the end.〉
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若稽往古,黃帝、堯、舜垂衣裳而天下治,蓋取諸乾坤; 服牛乘馬,引重致遠,蓋取諸大壯。 冕服車輿之制,其來尚矣。 《虞書》舜作十二章,五服以命有德,車服以賞有功。 《禮記》虞鸞車,夏鉤車,商大輅。 至周,損益前代,弁師掌王之五冕,巾車掌王之五輅,而儀文始備。 然孔子論治天下之大法,於殷輅取其質而得中,周冕取其文而得中也。 至秦並天下,兼收六國車旗服御,窮極侈靡,有大駕、法駕以及鹵簿。 漢承秦後,多因其舊。 由唐及宋,亦效秦法,以為盛典。 於文質適中之義,君子或得而議焉。
Looking back to antiquity, the Yellow Emperor, Yao, and Shun governed the realm simply by letting their robes hang at ease, drawing this pattern from the hexagrams Qian and Kun; They put oxen to the yoke and rode horses to haul heavy burdens over long distances, taking this model from the hexagram Da Zhuang. The regulations governing ceremonial dress and state carriages reach back to a very remote antiquity. The 《Documents of Yu》 records that Shun devised the twelve emblem patterns, using the five grades of dress to invest the worthy and carriage regalia to reward merit. The 《Record of Rites》 notes that Yu used the luan carriage, Xia the gou carriage, and Shang the great state carriage. Under the Zhou, earlier institutions were revised as needed; the cap master oversaw the king's five ceremonial caps and the carriage master the five state carriages, and only then did ritual protocol become fully established. Yet in discussing the great principles of governing the realm, Confucius praised the Yin carriage for its plain substance as hitting the mean, and the Zhou cap for its refined ornament as likewise attaining the mean. When Qin united the empire, it absorbed the carriages, banners, dress, and regalia of the six states to an extreme of lavish display, establishing the grand escort, the statutory escort, and the imperial guard of honor. The Han followed Qin and for the most part retained its institutions. From Tang through Song as well, courts imitated Qin practice and treated it as the grand ceremonial standard. On the question of balancing refinement and plain substance, men of discernment might sometimes raise objections.
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元初立國,庶事草創,冠服車輿,並從舊俗。 世祖混一天下,近取金、宋,遠法漢、唐。 至英宗親祀太廟,復置鹵簿。 今考之當時,上而天子之冕服,皇太子冠服,天子之質孫,天子之五輅與腰輿、象轎,以及儀衛隊仗,下而百官祭服、朝服,與百官之質孫,以及於士庶人之服色,粲然其有章,秩然其有序。 大抵參酌古今,隨時損益,兼存國制,用備儀文。 於是朝廷之盛,宗廟之美,百官之富,有以成一代之制作矣。 作《輿服志》,而儀衛附見於後云。
When the Yuan first founded the dynasty, every institution was still being improvised, and caps, dress, carriages, and chariots all followed earlier custom. After the Founding Emperor unified the realm, he drew on Jin and Song for recent models and looked back to Han and Tang for distant precedent. When Emperor Yingzong personally sacrificed at the Grand Ancestral Temple, the imperial guard of honor was restored. Examining the institutions of that age, one finds above the Son of Heaven's ceremonial robes and caps, the crown prince's court dress, the emperor's zhisun regalia, the five state carriages together with waist litters and elephant palanquins, and the ceremonial guards and arms; and below, the sacrificial and court dress of officials, officials' zhisun regalia, and even the regulated colors worn by gentlemen and commoners—all brilliantly patterned and rigorously ordered. In general these regulations weighed past and present, adjusting them to the needs of the age while preserving native Yuan custom, thereby completing the full corpus of ritual protocol. In this way the splendor of the court, the dignity of the ancestral temples, and the full array of official regalia together constituted the ceremonial achievement of a dynasty. The 《Treatise on Carriages and Clothes》 was therefore compiled, with Ceremonial Escort appended at the end.
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○冕服
Ceremonial Caps and Robes
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天子冕服:袞冕,制以漆紗,上覆曰綖,青表朱裏。 綖之四周,匝以雲龍。 冠之口圍,縈以珍珠。 綖之前後,旒各十二,以珍珠為之。 綖之左右,系黈纊二,系以玄紞,承以玉瑱,纊色黃,絡以珠。 冠之周圍,珠雲龍網結,通翠柳調珠。 綖上橫天河帶一,左右至地。 珠鈿窠網結,翠柳朱絲組二,屬諸笄,為纓絡,以翠柳調珠。 簪以玉為之,橫貫於冠。
The Son of Heaven's ceremonial dress: for the ancestral temple cap and robes, lacquered gauze was used; the upper covering is called the cap board, green on the outside and vermilion within. Around all four sides of the cap board, cloud-and-dragon motifs ran in a band. The rim of the cap was ringed with pearls. Before and behind the cap board hung twelve pendants each, all of pearls. On either side of the board hung two yellow earplugs, secured with black cords and supported by jade stoppers; the plugs were yellow and strung with pearls. Around the cap, knotted nets of pearl cloud-dragons were threaded with kingfisher willow ornaments and strung pearls. A Milky Way band crossed the cap board horizontally, its ends reaching to the ground on either side. Pearl-inlaid net knots were worked in; two chin straps of kingfisher willow and vermilion silk were attached to the hairpins and strung with kingfisher willow and pearls. The hairpin was of jade and passed horizontally through the cap.
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袞龍服,制以青羅,飾以生色銷金帝星一、日一、月一、升龍四、復身龍四、山三十八、火四十八、華蟲四十八、虎蜼四十八。
The dragon robe was made of green gauze and decorated in polychrome cut gold with one Imperial Star, one sun, one moon, four ascending dragons, four full-body dragons, thirty-eight mountains, forty-eight fires, forty-eight splendid creatures, and forty-eight tiger-moths.
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裳,制以緋羅,其狀如裙,飾以文繡,凡一十六行,每行藻二、粉米一、黼二、黻二。 中單,制以白紗,絳緣,黃勒帛副之。
The skirt was of scarlet gauze in pleated form, embroidered with sixteen rows in all, each row bearing two water-weeds, one grain emblem, two axes, and two opposed triangles. The inner robe was of white gauze with a crimson border, supplemented by a yellow girdle cloth.
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蔽膝,制以緋羅,有褾。 緋絹為裏,其形如襜,袍上著之,繡復身龍。
The knee cover was made of scarlet gauze with a hem border. Its lining was scarlet silk; shaped like an apron and worn over the robe, it was embroidered with full-body dragons.
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玉佩,珩一、琚一、瑀一、沖牙一、璜二。 沖牙以系璜,珩下有銀獸面,塗以黃金,雙璜夾之。 次又有衡,下有沖牙。 傍別施雙的以鳴,用玉。 大帶,制以緋白二色羅,合縫為之。
The jade pendant set comprised one top plaque, one middle plaque, one lower plaque, one angle tooth, and two arc plaques. The angle tooth linked the arc plaques; beneath the top plaque was a silver beast mask gilded in gold, flanked by twin arc plaques. Below that was another crossbar, with an angle tooth beneath it. At the sides were separately hung twin sounding plaques of jade to chime. The great belt was made of scarlet and white gauze sewn together.
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玉環綬,制以納石失。 〈(金錦也。)〉 上有三小玉環,下有青絲織網。 紅羅靴,制以紅羅為之,高靿。 履,制以納石失,有雙耳二,帶鉤,飾以珠。
The jade-ring sash was made of nasiji brocade. The gloss identifies nasiji as gold brocade.〉 It bore three small jade rings above and a green silk woven net below. Red gauze boots were made of red gauze with high shafts. Slippers were made of nasiji brocade, with two side flaps, belt hooks, and pearl ornamentation.
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襪,制以紅綾。
Socks were made of red damask.
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右按《太常集禮》,至元十二年十一月,博士議擬:冕天版長一尺六寸,廣八寸,前高八寸五分,後高九寸五分,身圍一尺八寸三分,並納言,用青羅為表,紅羅為裏,周回緣以黃金。 天版下四面,珠網結子,花素墜子,前後共二十有四旒,以珍珠為之。 青碧線織天河帶,兩頭各有珍珠金翠旒三節,玉滴子節花全。 紅線組帶二,上有珍珠金翠旒,玉滴子,下有金鐸二。 梅紅繡款幔帶一,黈纊二,珍珠垂系,上用金萼子二。 簪窠款幔組帶鈿窠各二,內組帶窠四,並鏤玉為之。 玉簪一,頂面鏤雲龍。 袞衣,用青羅夾制,五采間金,繪日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲、宗彜。 正面日一,月一,升龍四,山十二,上下襟華蟲、火各六對,虎蜼各 (闕) 對,背星一,升龍四,山十二,華蟲、火各十二對,虎蜼各六對。 中單,用白羅單制,羅領褾襈。 裳一,帶褾襈全,紅羅八幅夾造。 上繡藻、粉米、黼、黻,藻三十二,粉米十六,黼三十二,黻三十二。 蔽膝一,帶褾襈,紅羅夾造八幅,上繡升龍二。 綬一幅,六采織造,紅羅托裏。 小綬三,色同大綬,銷金黃羅綬頭全,上間施二玉環,並碾雲龍。 緋白大帶一,銷金黃帶頭,鈿窠二十有四。 紅羅勒帛一,青羅抹帶一。 佩二,玉上、中、下璜各一,半月各二,並碾玉為雲龍文。 玉滴子各二,並珍珠穿造。 金篦鉤,獸面,水葉環釘全。 涼帶一,紅羅裏,鏤金為之; 上為玉鵝七,撻尾束各一,金攀龍口,玳瑁襯釘。 舄一,重底,紅羅面,白綾托裏,如意頭,銷金黃羅緣口,玉鼻,純飾以珍珠。 金緋羅錦襪一兩。
According to the 《Collected Rites of the Court of Imperial Sacrifices》, in the eleventh month of the twelfth year of Zhiyuan, erudites proposed the following: the cap's heaven board should measure one foot six inches long and eight inches wide, eight and a half inches high in front and nine and a half inches behind, with a total girth of one foot eight and a third inches including the front flap; green gauze was to form the outer layer and red gauze the lining, with gold bordering the entire circumference. On all four sides beneath the heaven board were pearl net knots and plain floral pendants; twenty-four pendants in all hung before and behind, all of pearls. A Milky Way band was woven in green and blue thread; at each end were three sections of pearl, gold, and kingfisher pendants, complete with jade drops and floral nodes. Two red cord tassel bands bore pearl, gold, and kingfisher pendants and jade drops above, with two gold bells below. There was one plum-red embroidered patterned curtain band, two yellow earplugs with hanging pearl pendants, and two gold calyx mounts above. Two each of hairpin nests, patterned curtain bands, and inlay nests, plus four inner band nests—all carved in jade. One jade hairpin, its crown carved with cloud-dragons. The dragon robe was of layered green gauze, the five colors interwoven with gold and painted with the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, and ritual vessels. On the front were one sun, one moon, four ascending dragons, and twelve mountains; on the upper and lower flaps, six pairs each of splendid creatures and of fire; tiger-moths, each (text missing) pair; on the back were one star, four ascending dragons, twelve mountains, twelve pairs each of splendid creatures and of fire, and six pairs of tiger-moths. The inner robe was of single-layer white gauze with a gauze collar and bordered cuffs. One skirt, fully bordered and cuffed, made of eight panels of layered red gauze. It was embroidered with water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles: thirty-two water-weeds, sixteen grain emblems, thirty-two axes, and thirty-two opposed triangles. One knee cover, bordered and cuffed, of eight panels of layered red gauze, embroidered above with two ascending dragons. One sash panel, woven in six colors with a red gauze backing. Three small sashes matching the great sash in color, with full cut-gold yellow gauze sash heads; two jade rings were set between them, both ground with cloud-dragons. One scarlet-and-white great belt with a cut-gold yellow belt head and twenty-four inlay nests. One red gauze girdle cloth and one green gauze sash band. Two pendant sets, each with one upper, middle, and lower arc plaque and two half-moon pieces—all jade ground with cloud-dragon designs. Two jade drops each, all strung together with pearls. Gold comb-hooks with beast faces and complete water-leaf ring nails. One cool belt, red gauze lined and made of pierced gold; bearing seven jade geese above, one lash-tail clasp each, gold dragon-clasp mouths, and tortoiseshell backing nails. One pair of shoes with double soles, red gauze uppers and white damask lining, ruyi-shaped toes, cut-gold yellow gauze borders, jade nose pieces, and ornamentation entirely of pearls. One pair of gold scarlet gauze brocade socks.
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大德十一年九月,博士議:唐制,天子袞冕,垂白珠十有二旒,以組為纓,色如其綬,黈纊充耳,玉簪導。 玄衣纁裳,凡十二章。 八章在衣,日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彜; 四章在裳,藻、粉米、黼、黻。 褾領為升龍,皆織成之。 龍章以下,每章一行,每行十二。 白紗中單,黼領,青褾襈裾,黻加龍、山、火三章。 毳冕以上,火、山二章。 絺冕,山一章。 玄冕無章。 革帶、大帶、玉佩、綬、襪,與上同。 舄加金飾。 享廟、謁廟及朝遣上將、征還飲至、踐阼加元服、納後、元日受朝及臨軒冊拜王公則服之。 又宋制,天子服有袞冕,廣尺二寸,長二尺四寸,前後十有二旒,二纊,並貫珍珠。 又有翠旒十二,碧鳳銜之,在珠旒外。 冕板,以龍鱗錦表,上綴玉為七星,傍施琥珀瓶、犀瓶各二十四,周綴金絲網鈿,以珍珠雜寶玉,加紫雲白鶴錦裏。 四柱飾以七寶,紅綾裏。 金飾玉簪導,紅絲絳組帶。 亦謂之平天冠。 袞服青色,日、月、星、山、龍、雉、虎蜼七章。 紅裙,藻、火、粉米、黼、黻五章。 紅蔽膝,升龍二,並織成,間以雲彩,飾以金钑花鈿窠,裝以珍珠、琥珀、雜寶玉。 紅羅襦裙,繡五章,青褾襈裾。 六采綬一,小綬三,結三,玉環三。 素大帶,朱裏。 青羅四神帶二,繡四神盤結。 〈(綬帶飾並同袞服。)〉 白羅中單,青羅抹帶,紅羅勒帛,鹿盧玉具劍,玉鏢首鏤白玉雙佩,金飾,貫珍珠。 金龍鳳革帶,紅襪赤舄,金钑花,四神玉鼻。 祭天地宗廟、受冊尊號、元日受朝、冊皇太子則服之。 事未果行。
In the ninth month of the eleventh year of Dade, erudites noted Tang practice: the Son of Heaven's ancestral cap and robes bore twelve white pearl pendants; tassels served as chin straps matching the sash in color; yellow earplugs filled the ears; and a jade hairpin guided the cap. A dark upper robe and vermilion skirt bore twelve emblems in all. Eight emblems appeared on the robe: the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, fire, and ritual vessels; and four on the skirt: water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles. The bordered collar bore ascending dragons; all were woven in. Below the dragon emblem, each emblem occupied one row of twelve. The white gauze inner robe had an axe-pattern collar, green bordered cuffs and hem, and bore the opposed-triangle emblem plus dragon, mountain, and fire—three emblems in all. For the cui cap and higher grades, two emblems: fire and mountain. For the xi cap, one emblem: the mountain. The dark cap bore no emblems. The leather belt, great belt, jade pendant, sash, and socks were the same as above. The shoes bore additional gold ornamentation. This dress was worn for sacrifices at the ancestral temple, temple visits, court dispatch of great generals, victory feasts upon return from campaign, accession and capping ceremonies, receiving the empress, the New Year's audience, and enthroned investiture of princes and dukes. Song regulations likewise prescribed ancestral cap and robes for the Son of Heaven: the cap board was one foot two inches wide and two feet four inches long, with twelve pendants before and behind and two earplugs, all strung with pearls. There were also twelve kingfisher pendants held by blue phoenixes, placed outside the pearl pendants. The cap board was faced with dragon-scale brocade; jade was affixed above as the Seven Stars; twenty-four amber bottles and twenty-four rhinoceros-horn bottles were set at the sides; gold-thread net inlay circled the board, set with pearls and assorted gems and jade; and purple-cloud and white-crane brocade formed the lining. Four pillars were ornamented with the seven treasures and lined with red damask. A gold-ornamented jade hairpin guided the cap, with a red silk crimson tassel band. It was also called the Level-Heaven Cap. The dragon robe was green, bearing seven emblems: sun, moon, star, mountain, dragon, pheasant, and tiger-moth. The red skirt bore five emblems: water-weeds, fire, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles. The red knee cover bore two ascending dragons, all woven in and interspersed with cloud patterns, ornamented with gold hammered floral inlay nests and set with pearls, amber, and assorted gems and jade. The red gauze jacket-skirt was embroidered with five emblems and had green bordered cuffs and hem. There was one six-color sash, three small sashes, three knots, and three jade rings. The plain great belt had a vermilion lining. Two green gauze Four Spirits belts were embroidered with coiled Four Spirits motifs. The gloss notes that sash ornaments were the same as for the ancestral robes.〉 There were a white gauze inner robe, green gauze sash band, red gauze girdle cloth, a deer-path jade-fitted sword, and twin white jade pendants on a carved jade pommel with gold ornamentation, all strung with pearls. The outfit included a gold dragon-phoenix leather belt, red socks and vermilion shoes with gold hammered floral ornament, and Four Spirits jade nose pieces. This dress was worn for sacrifices to Heaven and Earth and the ancestral temples, for receiving an honorific title upon investiture, for the New Year's audience, and for investing the crown prince. This plan was never carried out.
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至延祐七年七月,英宗命禮儀院使八思吉斯傳旨,令省臣與太常禮儀院速制法服。 八月,中書省會集翰林、集賢、太常禮儀院官講議,依秘書監所藏前代帝王袞冕法服圖本,命有司制如其式。
In the seventh month of the seventh year of Yanyou, Emperor Yingzong instructed Basijisi, commissioner of the Court of Ritual, to order provincial ministers and the Court of Imperial Sacrifices and Ritual to prepare ceremonial dress without delay. In the eighth month, the Secretariat convened officials from the Hanlin Academy, the Academy of Scholarly Worthies, and the Court of Imperial Sacrifices and Ritual for deliberation; using illustrated models of former dynasties' ancestral caps, robes, and ceremonial dress preserved by the Directorate of Archives, they ordered the appropriate offices to manufacture regalia to those specifications.
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鎮圭,制以玉,長一尺二寸,有袋副之。
The stabilizing scepter was made of jade, one foot two inches long, and came with a carrying bag.
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皇太子冠服:袞冕,玄衣,纁裳,中單,蔽膝,玉佩,大綬,朱襪,赤舄。
The crown prince's cap and dress comprised ancestral cap and robes, a dark upper robe, vermilion skirt, inner robe, knee cover, jade pendant, great sash, vermilion socks, and vermilion shoes.
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按《太常集禮》,至元十二年,博士擬袞冕制,用白珠九旒,紅絲組為纓,青纊充耳,犀簪導。 青衣、朱裳,九章。 五章在衣,山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彜; 四章在裳,藻、粉米、黼、黻。 白紗中單,青礻票襈裾。 革帶,塗金銀鉤飖。 蔽膝,隨裳色,為火、山二章。 瑜玉雙佩,四采織成大綬,間施玉環三。 白襪朱舄,舄加金塗銀扣。
According to the 《Collected Rites of the Court of Imperial Sacrifices》, in the twelfth year of Zhiyuan, erudites proposed ancestral cap and robe regulations with nine white pearl pendants, red silk tassels as chin straps, green earplugs, and a rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide. The robe was green and the skirt vermilion, bearing nine emblems in all. Five emblems appeared on the robe: mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, fire, and ritual vessels; and four on the skirt: water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles. The white gauze inner robe had green bordered cuffs and hem. The leather belt bore gilded silver hook plaques. The knee cover matched the skirt in color and bore two emblems: fire and mountain. Fine jade twin pendants accompanied a great sash woven in four colors, with three jade rings set between. White socks and vermilion shoes, the shoes fitted with gold and gilded silver clasps.
18
大德十一年九月,照擬前代制度。 唐制,皇太子袞冕,垂白珠九旒,紅絲組為纓,青纊充耳,犀簪導。 玄衣、纁裳,九章。 五章在衣,山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彜; 四章在裳,藻、粉米、黼、黻,織成之,每行一章,黼、黻重以為等,每行九。 白紗中單,黼領,青褾襈裾。 革帶,金鉤飖,大帶。 蔽膝,隨裳色,火、山二章。 玉具劍,金寶飾玉鏢首,瑜玉雙佩。 朱組帶大綬,四采赤白縹紺,純朱質,長丈八尺,首廣九寸。 小雙綬,長二尺六寸,色同大綬,而首半之,間施玉環三。 朱襪赤舄,加金飾。 侍從祭祀及謁廟、加元服、納妃服之。 宋制,皇太子袞冕,垂白珠九旒,紅絲組為纓,青纊充耳,犀簪導。 青衣、朱裳,九章。 五章在衣,山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彜; 四章在裳,藻、粉米、黼、黻。 白紗中單,青褾襈裾。 革帶,塗金銀鉤飖。 蔽膝,隨裳色,火、山二章。 瑜玉雙佩,四采織成大綬,間施玉環三。 白襪、朱舄,舄加塗金銀飾。 加元服、從祀、受冊、謁廟、朝會服之。 已擬其制,未果造。
In the ninth month of the eleventh year of Dade, regulations were drafted according to former dynasties' institutions. Under Tang regulations, the crown prince's ancestral cap and robes bore nine white pearl pendants, with red silk tassels as chin straps, green earplugs, and a rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide. The dark upper robe and vermilion skirt bore nine emblems. Five emblems appeared on the robe: mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, fire, and ritual vessels; Four emblems appeared on the skirt—water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles—all woven in, one emblem per row, with axes and opposed triangles repeated for gradation, nine per row. The white gauze inner robe had an axe-pattern collar and green bordered cuffs and hem. The outfit included a leather belt with gold hook plaques and a great belt. The knee cover matched the skirt in color and bore fire and mountain—two emblems. The regalia included a jade-fitted sword with a jade pommel ornamented in gold and gems, and fine jade twin pendants. The vermilion-cord great sash was woven in four colors—red, white, light blue, and dark blue—with a pure vermilion body, one zhang eight chi long and nine inches wide at the head. Small twin sashes measured two chi six cun, matching the great sash in color but half its width at the head, with three jade rings set between. Vermilion socks and vermilion shoes bore additional gold ornamentation. This dress was worn when attending sacrifices, visiting the temple, receiving the capping ceremony, and receiving a consort. Under Song regulations, the crown prince's ancestral cap and robes bore nine white pearl pendants, with red silk tassels as chin straps, green earplugs, and a rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide. The robe was green and the skirt vermilion, with nine emblems. Five emblems appeared on the robe: mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, fire, and ritual vessels; and four on the skirt: water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles. The white gauze inner robe had green bordered cuffs and hem. The leather belt bore gilded silver hook plaques. The knee cover matched the skirt in color and bore fire and mountain—two emblems. Fine jade twin pendants accompanied a great sash woven in four colors, with three jade rings set between. White socks and vermilion shoes, the shoes fitted with gilded silver ornamentation. This dress was worn for the capping ceremony, attending sacrifices, receiving investiture documents, visiting the temple, and court assemblies. The regulations had been drafted, but the garments were never manufactured.
19
三獻官及司徒、大禮使祭服:籠巾貂蟬冠五,青羅服五, 〈(領、袖、襕俱用皂綾。)〉 紅羅裙五, 〈(皂綾為襕。)〉 紅羅蔽膝五, 〈(其羅花樣俱系牡丹。)〉 白紗中單五, 〈(黃綾帶。)〉 紅組金綬紳五, 〈(紅組金譯語言納石失,各佩玉環二。)〉 象笏五,銀束帶五,玉佩五,白羅方心曲領五,赤革履五對,白綾襪五對。
Sacrificial dress for the three offering officers, the Minister of Education, and the Grand Ritual Commissioner comprised five caged-cap sable cicada caps and five green gauze robes, The gloss notes that collar, sleeves, and border all used black damask.〉 five red gauze skirts, The gloss notes that black damask formed the border.〉 five red gauze knee covers, The gloss notes that all gauze patterns were peony designs.〉 five white gauze inner robes, The gloss notes yellow damask belts.〉 five vermilion-cord gold sash panels, The gloss notes vermilion-cord gold nasiji brocade, each bearing two jade rings.〉 There were also five ivory tablets, five silver belt clasps, five jade pendants, five white gauze square-heart curved collars, five pairs of red leather shoes, and five pairs of white damask socks.
20
助奠以下諸執事官冠服:貂蟬冠、獬豸冠、七梁冠、六梁冠、五梁冠、四梁冠、三梁冠、二梁冠二百,青羅服二百, 〈(領、袖、襕俱用皂綾。)〉 紅綾裙二百, 〈(皂綾為襕。)〉 紅羅蔽膝二百,紫羅公服二百, 〈(用梅花羅。)〉 白紗中單二百, 〈(黃綾帶。)〉 織金綬紳二百, 〈(紅一百九十八,青二,各佩銅環二。)〉 銅束帶二百,白羅方心曲領二百,銅佩二百,展角襆頭二百,塗金荔枝帶三十,烏角帶一百七十,皂靴二百對,赤革履二百對,白綾襪二百對,象笏三十,銀杏木笏一百七十。
Caps and dress for assisting officers and all ritual officers below comprised two hundred sable cicada caps, unicorn caps, and caps of seven, six, five, four, three, and two ribs, together with two hundred green gauze robes, The gloss notes that collar, sleeves, and border all used black damask.〉 two hundred red damask skirts, The gloss notes that black damask formed the border.〉 two hundred red gauze knee covers, two hundred purple gauze court robes, The gloss notes plum-blossom gauze.〉 two hundred white gauze inner robes, The gloss notes yellow damask belts.〉 two hundred gold-woven sash panels, The gloss notes one hundred ninety-eight in red and two in green, each bearing two bronze rings.〉 The inventory also included two hundred bronze belt clasps, two hundred white gauze square-heart curved collars, two hundred bronze pendants, two hundred spread-corner headcloths, thirty gilded lychee belts, one hundred seventy black horn belts, two hundred pairs each of black boots, red leather shoes, and white damask socks, thirty ivory tablets, and one hundred seventy ginkgo-wood tablets.
21
凡獻官諸執事行禮,俱衣法服。 惟監察御史二,冠獬豸,服青綬。 凡迎香、讀祝及祀日遇陰雨,俱衣紫羅公服。 六品以下,皆得借紫。
Whenever offering officers and ritual attendants performed the rites, they all wore ceremonial dress. Only the two surveillance censors wore unicorn caps and green sashes. For receiving incense, reading the prayer, or when rain fell on the day of sacrifice, all wore purple gauze court robes. Officials of sixth rank and below were all permitted to borrow purple robes.
22
都監庫、祠祭局、儀鸞局、神廚局頭目長行人等:交角襆頭五十,窄袖紫羅服五十,塗金束帶五十,皂靴五十對。
Headmen and senior attendants of the Directorate Storehouse, Sacrificial Offerings Bureau, Ceremonial Escort Bureau, and Divine Kitchen Bureau were issued fifty crossed-corner headcloths, fifty narrow-sleeved purple gauze robes, fifty gilded belt clasps, and fifty pairs of black boots.
23
初憲宗壬子年秋八月,祭天於日月山,用冕服自此始。 成宗大德六年春三月,祭天於麗正門外丙地,命獻官以下諸執事,各具公服行禮。 是時,大都未有郊壇,大禮用公服自此始。 九年冬至祭享,用冠服,依宗廟見用者制。 其後節次祭祀,或合祀天地,增配位從祀,獻攝職事,續置冠服,於法服庫收掌。 法服二百九十有九,公服二百八十,窄紫二百九十有五。 至大間,太常博士李之紹、王天祐疏陳,親祀冕無旒,服大裘而加袞,裘以黑羔皮為之。 臣下從祀冠服,歷代所尚,其制不同。 集議得依宗廟見用冠服制度。
The first use of ceremonial caps and robes came in the eighth month of autumn in the renzi year under Emperor Xianzong, when Heaven was sacrificed to at Sun-Moon Mountain. In the third month of spring in the sixth year of Dade under Emperor Chengzong, Heaven was sacrificed to at the bing site outside Lizheng Gate; offering officers and all ritual attendants below were ordered to wear court robes for the ceremony. At that time Dadu had no suburban altar, and the use of court robes for the great suburban rite began on this occasion. In the ninth year, the winter solstice sacrifice used caps and dress according to the regulations then in use at the ancestral temple. Thereafter, for seasonal sacrifices, combined sacrifices to Heaven and Earth, added collateral worship seats, and offering and acting offices, caps and dress were continually provisioned and stored in the ceremonial dress repository. The repository held two hundred ninety-nine sets of ceremonial dress, two hundred eighty court robes, and two hundred ninety-five narrow purple garments. During the Zhida period, Court of Imperial Sacrifices erudites Li Zhishao and Wang Tianyou submitted memorials noting that for the emperor's personal sacrifice the cap bore no pendants, and he wore a great fur robe with ancestral robes over it; the fur robe was made of black lamb fleece. The caps and dress worn by officials in collateral worship varied according to what each dynasty esteemed. Collective deliberation concluded that they should follow the cap and dress regulations then in use at the ancestral temple.
24
社稷祭服:青羅袍一百二十三,白紗中單一百三十三,紅梅花羅裙一百二十三,藍織錦銅環綬紳二,紅織錦銅環綬紳一百一十七,紅織錦玉環綬紳四,紅梅花羅蔽膝一百二十三,革履一百二十三,白綾襪一百二十三,白羅方心曲領一百二十三,黃綾帶一百二十三,佩一百二十三,銅珩璜者一百一十九,玉珩璜者四,藍素纻絲帶一百二十三,銀帶四,銅帶一百一十九,冠一百二十三,水角簪金梁冠一百七,紗冠一十,獬豸冠二,籠巾紗冠四,木笏一百二十三,紫羅公服一百二十三,黑漆襆頭一百二十三,展角全二色羅插領一百二十三,鍍金銅荔枝帶一十,角帶一百一十三,象笏一十三枝,木笏一百一十枝,黃絹單包復一百二十三,紫纻絲抹口青氈襪一百一十三,皂靴一百二十三,窄紫羅衫三十,黑漆襆頭三十,銅束帶三十,黃絹單包復三十,皂靴三十,紫纻絲抹口青氈襪三十。
Sacrificial dress for the Altars of Soil and Grain comprised one hundred twenty-three green gauze robes, one hundred thirty-three white gauze inner robes, and one hundred twenty-three red plum-blossom gauze skirts; two blue woven-brocade sash panels with bronze rings and one hundred seventeen red woven-brocade sash panels with bronze rings, plus four red woven-brocade sash panels with jade rings; one hundred twenty-three red plum-blossom gauze knee covers, leather shoes, white damask socks, white gauze square-heart curved collars, and yellow damask belts; one hundred twenty-three pendant sets, of which one hundred nineteen had bronze top and arc plaques and four had jade; one hundred twenty-three blue plain ramie-silk belts, four silver belts, and one hundred nineteen bronze belts; one hundred twenty-three caps, including one hundred seven water-horn hairpin gold-rib caps, ten gauze caps, two unicorn caps, and four caged-cap gauze caps; one hundred twenty-three wooden tablets, purple gauze court robes, black lacquer headcloths, and spread-corner two-color gauze insert collars; ten gilded bronze lychee belts and one hundred thirteen horn belts; thirteen ivory tablets and one hundred ten wooden tablets; one hundred twenty-three yellow silk wrappers, one hundred thirteen purple ramie-silk mouth-cuff blue felt socks, and one hundred twenty-three black boots; plus thirty narrow purple gauze shirts with matching black lacquer headcloths, bronze belt clasps, yellow silk wrappers, black boots, and purple ramie-silk mouth-cuff blue felt socks.
25
宣聖廟祭服:獻官法服,七梁冠三, 〈(簪全。)〉 鴉青袍三,絨錦綬紳三, 〈(各帶青絨網並銅環二。)〉 方心曲領三,藍結帶三,銅佩三,紅羅裙三,白絹中單三,紅羅蔽膝三,革履三。 〈(白絹襪全。)〉
Sacrificial dress for the Temple of the Exalted Sage included ceremonial dress for offering officers: three seven-rib caps, The gloss notes complete hairpins.〉 three crow-blue robes and three velvet brocade sash panels, The gloss notes that each bore a green velvet net and two bronze rings.〉 There were also three square-heart curved collars, three blue knotted belts, three bronze pendants, three red gauze skirts, three white silk inner robes, three red gauze knee covers, and three leather shoes. The gloss notes complete white silk socks.〉
26
執事儒服,軟角唐巾,白襕插領,黃靴角帶,皂靴,各九十有八。
Scholar dress for ritual officers comprised ninety-eight each of soft-corner Tang headcloths, white pleated insert collars, yellow boot horn belts, and black boots.
27
曲阜祭服,連蟬冠四十有三,七梁冠三,五梁冠三十有六,三梁冠四,皂纻絲鞋三十有六兩,舒角襆頭二,軟角唐巾四十,角簪四十有三,冠纓四十有三副, 〈(凡八十有六條。)〉 象牙笏七,木笏三十有八,玉佩七, 〈(凡十有四系。)〉 銅佩三十有六, 〈(凡七十有二系。)〉 帶八十有五,藍鞓帶七,紅鞋帶三十有六,烏角帶二,黃鞓帶、烏角偏帶四十,大紅金綬結帶七, 〈(上用玉環十有四。)〉 青羅大袖夾衣七,紫羅公服二,褐羅大袖衣三十有六,白羅衫四十,白絹中單三十有六,白紗中單七,大紅羅夾蔽膝七,大紅夾裳、緋紅羅夾蔽膝三十有六,緋紅夾裳四,黃羅夾裳三十有六,黃羅大帶七,白羅方心曲領七,紅羅綬帶七,黃絹大帶三十有六,皂靴、白羊毳襪各四十有二對,大紅羅鞋七兩,白絹夾襪四十有三兩。
Sacrificial dress for Qufu comprised forty-three linked cicada caps, three seven-rib caps, thirty-six five-rib caps, four three-rib caps, thirty-six pairs of black ramie silk shoes, two spread-corner headcloths, forty soft-corner Tang headcloths, forty-three horn hairpins, and forty-three sets of cap tassels, The gloss notes eighty-six pieces in all.〉 There were seven ivory tablets, thirty-eight wooden tablets, and seven jade pendants, The gloss notes fourteen pendant strings in all.〉 thirty-six bronze pendant sets, The gloss notes seventy-two pendant strings in all.〉 the inventory also listed eighty-five belts, including seven blue belt cords, thirty-six red belt cords, two black horn belts, forty yellow belt cords with black horn side belts, and seven great-red gold-sash knotted belts, The gloss notes fourteen jade rings on the upper part.〉 Also included were seven green gauze large-sleeved lined coats, two purple gauze court robes, thirty-six brown gauze large-sleeved coats, forty white gauze shirts, thirty-six white silk inner robes, seven white gauze inner robes, seven great-red gauze lined knee covers, thirty-six great-red lined skirts with scarlet-red gauze lined knee covers, four scarlet-red lined skirts, thirty-six yellow gauze lined skirts, seven yellow gauze great belts, seven white gauze square-heart curved collars, seven red gauze sash bands, thirty-six yellow silk great belts, forty-two pairs each of black boots and white sheep-felt socks, seven pairs of great-red gauze shoes, and forty-three pairs of white silk lined socks.
28
質孫,漢言一色服也,內庭大宴則服之。 冬夏之服不同,然無定制。 凡勛戚大臣近侍,賜則服之。 下至於樂工衛士,皆有其服。 精粗之制,上下之別,雖不同,總謂之質孫云。
Zhisun, which in Chinese means a single-color dress, was worn at grand banquets within the inner court. Winter and summer garments differed, though no fixed standard governed them. Meritorious kin, senior ministers, and close attendants wore it when the court bestowed it upon them. Even musicians and guards had their own prescribed zhisun garments. Despite differences in fineness and rank, all such single-color garments were collectively termed zhisun.
29
天子質孫,冬之服凡十有一等,服納石失、 〈(金錦也。)〉 怯綿裏, 〈(翦茸也。)〉 則冠金錦暖帽。 服大紅、桃紅、紫藍、綠寶裏, 〈(寶裏,服之有襕者也。)〉 則冠七寶重頂冠。 服紅黃粉皮,則冠紅金答子暖帽。 服白粉皮,則冠白金褡子暖帽。 服銀鼠,則冠銀鼠暖帽,其上並加銀鼠比肩。 〈(俗稱曰襻子答忽。)〉 夏之服凡十有五等,服答納都納石失, 〈(綴大珠於金錦。)〉 則冠寶頂金鳳鈸笠。 服速不都納石失, 〈(綴小珠於金錦。)〉 則冠珠子卷雲冠。 服納石失,則帽亦如之。 服大紅珠寶裏紅毛子答納,則冠珠緣邊鈸笠。 服白毛子金絲寶裏,則冠白藤寶貝帽。 服駝褐毛子,則帽亦如之。 服大紅、綠、藍、銀褐、棗褐、金繡龍五色羅,則冠金鳳頂笠,各隨其服之色。 服金龍青羅,則冠金鳳頂漆紗冠。 服珠子褐七寶珠龍褡子,則冠黃牙忽寶貝珠子帶後檐帽。 服青速夫金絲襕子, 〈(速夫,回回毛布之精者也。)〉 則冠七寶漆紗帶後檐帽。
The emperor's zhisun winter wardrobe comprised eleven grades; when he wore nasiji brocade, The gloss notes gold brocade.〉 with qiemian lining, The gloss notes cut pile.〉 he wore a gold-brocade warm cap. When he wore great-red, peach-red, purple-blue, or green baoli robes, The gloss explains that baoli denotes garments with a lam border.〉 he wore a seven-jewel double-peaked crown. When he wore red-yellow powder fur, he wore a red-gold dazi warm cap. When he wore white powder fur, he wore a white-gold dazi warm cap. When he wore silver sable, he wore a silver-sable warm cap with a matching silver-sable shoulder piece above it. The gloss notes the common name panzi dahu.〉 Summer zhisun dress comprised fifteen grades; when he wore dana-du nasiji, The gloss notes large pearls set on gold brocade.〉 he wore a jeweled-peaked golden-phoenix cymbal hat. When he wore subudu nasiji, The gloss notes small pearls set on gold brocade.〉 he wore a pearl scrolling-cloud crown. When he wore nasiji, he wore the matching cap as well. When he wore great-red pearl baoli with red fur dana, he wore a pearl-edged cymbal hat. When he wore white fur with gold-thread baoli, he wore a white-rattan shell hat. When he wore camel-brown fur, he wore the matching cap as well. When he wore great-red, green, blue, silver-brown, jujube-brown, or gold-embroidered dragon five-color gauze, he wore a golden-phoenix-peaked hat in the corresponding color. When he wore gold-dragon green gauze, he wore a golden-phoenix-peaked lacquered-gauze crown. When he wore pearl-brown seven-jewel pearl-dragon dazi, he wore a yellow yahu shell-and-pearl rear-brim hat. When he wore blue suf lam robes with gold thread, The gloss explains that suf is the finest Hui wool cloth.〉 he wore a seven-jewel lacquered-gauze rear-brim hat.
30
百官質孫,冬之服凡九等,大紅納石失一,大紅怯綿裏一,大紅冠素一,桃紅、藍、綠官素各一,紫、黃、鴉青各一。 夏之服凡十有四等,素納石失一,聚線寶裏納石失一,棗褐渾金間絲蛤珠一,大紅官素帶寶裏一,大紅明珠答子一,桃紅、藍、綠、銀褐各一,高麗鴉青雲袖羅一,駝褐、茜紅、白毛子各一,鴉青官素帶寶裏一。
Officials' zhisun winter dress comprised nine grades: one each of great-red nasiji, great-red qiemian lining, and great-red plain cap cloth; one each of peach-red, blue, and green official plain cloth; and one each of purple, yellow, and crow-blue. Officials' zhisun summer dress comprised fourteen grades: one plain nasiji, one clustered-thread baoli nasiji, one jujube-brown all-gold interwoven silk with clam pearls, one great-red official plain baoli, one great-red bright-pearl dana, one each of peach-red, blue, green, and silver-brown, one Goryeo crow-blue cloud-sleeve gauze, one each of camel-brown, madder-red, and white fur, and one crow-blue official plain baoli.
31
百官公服:
Court robes of the hundred officials:
32
公服,制以羅,大袖,盤領,俱右衽。 一品紫,大獨科花,徑五寸。 二品小獨科花,徑三寸。 三品散答花,徑二寸,無枝葉。 四品、五品小雜花,徑一寸五分。 六品、七品緋羅小雜花,徑一寸。 八品、九品綠羅,無文。
Court robes were made of gauze with large sleeves and round collars, all fastened on the right. First rank wore purple with large solitary-branch flowers five inches across. Second rank wore small solitary-branch flowers three inches across. Third rank wore scattered da flowers two inches across, without branches or leaves. Fourth and fifth ranks wore small mixed flowers one and a half inches across. Sixth and seventh ranks wore scarlet gauze with small mixed flowers one inch across. Eighth and ninth ranks wore plain green gauze without ornament.
33
襆頭,漆紗為之,展其角。 笏,制以牙,上圓下方。 或以銀杏木為之。
Headcloths were made of lacquered gauze with spread corners. Tablets were made of ivory, rounded at the top and square at the bottom. Ginkgo wood might be used instead.
34
偏帶,正從一品以玉,或花,或素。 二品以花犀。 三品、四品以黃金為荔枝。 五品以下以烏犀。 並八胯,鞓用朱革。 靴,以皂皮為之。
For side belts, regular and concurrent first rank used jade plaques, either patterned or plain. Second rank wore side belts with patterned rhinoceros horn plaques. Third and fourth ranks used gold plaques cast in the shape of lychee fruit. Officials of fifth rank and below wore black rhinoceros horn plaques. All bore eight plaques, and the belt cord was made of vermilion leather. Official boots were fashioned from black leather.
35
儀衛服色:交角襆頭,其制,巾後交折其角。
Ceremonial guard regalia included the crossed-corner headcloth, whose corners were folded and crossed at the back.
36
鳳翅襆頭,制如唐巾,兩角上曲,而作雲頭,兩旁覆以兩金鳳翅。 學士帽,制如唐巾,兩角如匙頭下垂。 唐巾,制如襆頭,而撱其角,兩角上曲作雲頭。
Phoenix-wing headcloths followed the Tang headcloth form, with upturned corners shaped as cloud heads and golden phoenix wings covering both sides. Scholar caps followed the Tang headcloth form, with both corners hanging down like spoon heads. Tang headcloths resembled standard headcloths, but with folded corners curving upward into cloud heads.
37
控鶴襆頭,制如交角,金鏤其額。 花角襆頭,制如控鶴襆頭,兩角及額上,簇象生雜花。
Crane-keeping headcloths followed the crossed-corner form, with a gold-filigreed forehead band. Flower-corner headcloths followed the crane-keeping form, with lifelike mixed flowers clustered on the corners and forehead.
38
錦帽,制以漆紗,後幅兩旁,前拱而高,中下,後畫連錢錦,前額作聚文。 平巾幘,黑漆革為之,形如進賢冠之籠巾,或以青,或以白。 武弁,制以皮,加漆。
Brocade caps were made of lacquered gauze with side rear panels, a high arched front that sloped downward, linked-coin brocade painted at the rear, and clustered ornament on the forehead. Level kerchiefs were made of black lacquered leather in the shape of the Advancement cap's cage kerchief, in either green or white. Military caps were made of lacquered leather.
39
甲騎冠,制以皮,加黑漆,雌黃為緣。 抹額,制以緋羅,繡寶花。 巾,制以絁,五色,畫寶相花。 兜鍪,制以皮,金塗五色,各隨其甲。
Armored cavalry caps were made of black-lacquered leather with orpiment borders. Forehead bands were made of scarlet gauze embroidered with treasure flowers. Kerchiefs were made of five-colored silk tabby painted with udumbara flowers. Helmets were made of leather gilded in five colors to match the corresponding armor.
40
襯甲,制如雲肩,青錦質,緣以白錦,衷以氈,裏以白絹。 雲肩,制如四垂雲,青緣,黃羅五色,嵌金為之。 裲襠,制如衫。 襯袍,制用緋錦,武士所以衤易裲襠。
Lining armor followed the cloud-shoulder form, with a green brocade body bordered in white brocade, felt padding, and a white silk lining. Cloud shoulders were shaped like four hanging clouds, with green borders and five-colored yellow gauze inlaid with gold. Bingdang vests were cut like shirts. Lining robes were made of scarlet brocade and were what warriors wore beneath the bingdang vest.
41
士卒袍,制以絹絁,繪寶相花。 窄袖袍,制以羅或絁。 辮線襖,制如窄袖衫,腰作辮線細折。 控鶴襖,制以青緋二色錦,圓答寶相花。
Soldiers' robes were made of silk tabby painted with udumbara flowers. Narrow-sleeved robes were made of gauze or silk tabby. Plaited-line jackets followed the narrow-sleeved shirt form, with fine plaited folds at the waist. Crane-keeping jackets were made of green and scarlet brocade with round da-flower udumbara blossoms.
42
窄袖襖,長行輿士所服,紺緅色。 樂工襖,制以緋錦,明珠琵琶窄袖,辮線細折。
Narrow-sleeved jackets in dark purple were worn by long-procession litter bearers. Musicians' jackets were made of scarlet brocade with bright-pearl pipa narrow sleeves and fine plaited folds.
43
甲,覆膊、掩心、扞背、扞股,制以皮,或為虎文、獅子文,或施金鎧銷子文。 臂鞲,制以錦,綠絹為裏,有雙帶。 錦螣蛇,束麻長一丈一尺,裹以紅錦。
Armor comprised arm covers, chest guards, back guards, and thigh guards made of leather, either patterned with tigers or lions or bearing gilded ring-mail ornament. Arm guards were made of brocade lined with green silk and fitted with double straps. Brocade teng snakes were hemp bindings one zhang one chi long, wrapped in red brocade.
44
束帶,紅鞓雙獺尾,黃金塗銅胯,余同腰帶而狹小。 絳環,制以銅,黃金塗之。 汗胯,制以青錦,緣以銀褐錦,或繡撲獸,間以雲氣。 行縢,以絹為之。
Belt clasps had red belt cords with double otter tails and gilded bronze plaques, otherwise resembling waist belts but narrower. Crimson rings were made of gilded bronze. Sweat plaques were made of green brocade bordered in silver-brown brocade, sometimes embroidered with pouncing-beast motifs and interspersed with cloud patterns. Leg bindings were made of silk tabby.
45
鞋,制以麻。 翁鞋,制以皮為履,而長其靿,縛於行縢之內。 雲頭靴,制以皮,幫嵌雲朵,頭作雲象,翁束於脛。
Shoes were made of hemp. Daweng shoes had leather soles and extended uppers that were secured inside the leg bindings. Cloud-head boots were made of leather with cloud motifs inlaid on the sides and cloud-shaped toes, the daweng bindings tied around the shins.
46
服色等第:仁宗延祐元年冬十有二月,定服色等第,詔曰:「比年以來,所在士民,靡麗相尚,尊卑混淆,僭禮費財,朕所不取。 貴賤有章,益明國制,儉奢中節,可阜民財。」 命中書省定立服色等第於後。
Dress-color grades: In the twelfth month of winter in Yanyou 1 (1314), Emperor Renzong fixed the grades of dress and ornament. An edict declared: "In recent years gentlemen and commoners everywhere have competed in finery, blurring distinctions of rank, overstepping ritual propriety, and squandering wealth—conduct I will not tolerate. Distinctions between high and low should be clearly marked to clarify the national regulations; moderation in extravagance and restraint will help enrich the people's resources." He ordered the Secretariat to establish the dress-color grades set forth below.
47
一,蒙古人不在禁限,及見當怯薛諸色人等,亦不在禁限,惟不許服龍鳳文。 〈(龍謂五爪二角者。)〉
First, Mongols were exempt from these restrictions, as were active Keshig personnel of all categories; only dragon-and-phoenix designs remained forbidden to them. The gloss notes that "dragon" denotes the five-clawed, two-horned form.〉
48
一,職官除龍鳳文外,一品、二品服渾金花,三品服金答子,四品、五品服雲袖帶襕,六品、七品服六花,八品、九品服四花。 〈(職事散官從一高。)〉 系腰,五品以下許用銀,並減鐵。
First, for officeholders, apart from dragon-and-phoenix designs: ranks one and two wore whole-gold blossom ornament; rank three wore gold dazi; ranks four and five wore cloud-sleeve bordered-hem robes; ranks six and seven wore six-blossom patterns; and ranks eight and nine wore four-blossom patterns. The gloss notes that for substantive and honorary ranks, the higher of the two governs.〉 For waist-belt attachments, ranks five and below might use silver, with iron fittings reduced accordingly.
49
一,命婦衣服,一品至三品服渾金,四品、五品服金褡子,六品以下惟服銷金,並金紗褡子。 首飾,一品至三品許用金珠寶玉,四品、五品用金玉珍珠,六品以下用金,惟耳環用珠玉。 〈(同籍不限親疏,期親雖別籍,並出嫁同。)〉
First, for titled ladies' dress: ranks one through three wore whole-gold ornament; ranks four and five wore gold dazi vests; ranks six and below wore only cut-gold decoration and gold-gauze dazi vests. For head ornaments: ranks one through three might use gold, pearls, gems, and jade; ranks four and five might use gold, jade, and pearls; ranks six and below might use gold alone, with pearls and jade permitted only for earrings. The gloss notes that entitlement followed the same household register regardless of closeness of kinship; mourning-grade close relatives counted even if registered separately, as did married daughters.〉
50
一,器皿, 〈(謂茶酒器。)〉 除钑造龍鳳文不得使用外,一品至三品許用金玉,四品、五品惟臺盞用金,六品以下臺盞用鍍金,余並用銀。
First, for vessels, The gloss notes that this refers to tea and wine vessels.〉 Except that chased dragon-and-phoenix designs were forbidden, ranks one through three might use gold and jade; ranks four and five might use gold only for stem cups; ranks six and below might use gold-plated stem cups; and all other vessels were to be of silver.
51
一,帳幕,除不得用赭黃龍鳳文外,一品至三品許用金花刺繡紗羅,四品、五品用刺繡紗羅,六品以下用素紗羅。
First, for tents and curtains: apart from the prohibition on ochre-yellow dragon-and-phoenix designs, ranks one through three might use gold-flower embroidered gauze and damask; ranks four and five might use embroidered gauze and damask; and ranks six and below might use plain gauze and damask.
52
一,車輿,除不得用龍鳳文外,一品至三品許用間金妝飾銀螭頭、繡帶,青幔,四品、五品用素獅頭、繡帶、青幔,六品至九品用素雲頭、素帶、青幔。
First, for carriages: apart from dragon-and-phoenix designs, ranks one through three might use silver chi-dragon heads with interspersed gold decoration, embroidered bands, and green curtains; ranks four and five might use plain lion heads, embroidered bands, and green curtains; and ranks six through nine might use plain cloud heads, plain bands, and green curtains.
53
一,鞍轡,一品許飾以金玉,二品、三品飾以金,四品、五品飾以銀,六品以下並飾以鍮石銅鐵。 一,內外有出身,考滿應入流,見役人員服用,與九品同。
First, for saddles and bridles: rank one might be ornamented with gold and jade; ranks two and three with gold; ranks four and five with silver; and ranks six and below with brass alloy, bronze, and iron. First, clerks inside and outside the regular bureaucracy who held examination credentials, had completed tenure, and were eligible to enter the regular ranks were to dress, while in active service, according to rank nine.
54
一,授各投下令旨、鈞旨,有印信,見任勾當人員,亦與九品同。
First, acting personnel currently serving under sealed orders and rescripts issued by various agencies were also to dress according to rank nine.
55
一,庶人除不得服赭黃,惟許服暗花纻絲綾羅毛毳,帽笠不許飾用金玉,靴不得裁制花樣。 首飾許用翠花,並金釵錍各一事,惟耳環用金珠碧甸,余並用銀。 酒器許用銀壺瓶臺盞盂鏇,余並禁止。 帳幕用紗絹,不得赭黃,車輿黑油,齊頭平頂皂幔。
First, commoners were forbidden ochre-yellow but might wear dark-pattern ramie silk, figured silk, damask, gauze, and woolens; caps and hats might not be ornamented with gold or jade; and boots might not be cut in decorative patterns. For head ornaments they might use kingfisher-feather flowers, one gold hairpin, and one gold belt plaque; earrings alone might use gold, pearls, and green jade inlay; all other ornaments were to be of silver. For wine vessels they might use silver ewers, bottles, stem cups, bowls, and shallow dishes; all others were forbidden. Tents and curtains were to be of gauze and silk, not ochre-yellow; carriages were to be black-lacquered with level-headed, flat-topped black curtains.
56
一,諸色目人,除行營帳外,其餘並與庶人同。
First, persons of the various semu categories were subject to the same rules as commoners, except for campaign tents.
57
一,諸職官致仕,與見任同。 解降者,依應得品級,不敘者,與庶人同。
First, retired officeholders were to dress the same as incumbents. Those dismissed and demoted dressed according to the rank to which they were entitled; those not restored to rank dressed as commoners.
58
一,父祖有官,既沒年深,非犯除名不敘之限,其命婦及子孫與見任同。 一,諸樂藝人等服用,與庶人同。 凡承應妝扮之物,不拘上例。 一,皂隸公使人,惟許服絹。
First, where a father or grandfather had held office and had long since died, provided the family was not within the limits for crimes requiring expulsion and permanent disqualification, his titled lady and descendants dressed the same as incumbents. First, musicians and performers were to dress the same as commoners. Costume and makeup items used in performance were not subject to the above rules. First, runners and government messengers were permitted to wear only figured silk tabby.
59
一,娼家出入,止服皂褙子,不得乘坐車馬,余依舊例。 一,今後漢人、高麗、南人等投充怯薛者,並在禁限。
First, when courtesans went abroad they might wear only black beizi jackets and might not ride in carriages or on horses; other rules followed established precedent. First, henceforth Han Chinese, Koreans, southerners, and others who had enrolled as Keshig were subject to these restrictions.
60
一,服色等第,上得兼下,下不得僭上。 違者,職官解見任,期年後降一等敘,余人決五十七下。 違禁之物,付告捉人充賞。 有司禁治不嚴,從監察御史、廉訪司究治。
First, within the dress-color grades, higher ranks might adopt lower-grade items, but lower ranks might not usurp higher-grade privilege. Violators among officeholders were to be removed from their posts and, after one year, restored at one rank lower; all others were to receive fifty-seven strokes of the rod. Contraband items were to be awarded to the informant who reported and seized them. If the responsible offices failed to enforce the ban strictly, censorial investigators and surveillance commissions were to investigate and punish them.
61
禦賜之物,不在禁限。 ○輿輅
Items bestowed by the emperor were exempt from these restrictions. Imperial Palanquins
62
玉輅。 青質,金裝,青綠藻井,栲栳輪蓋。 外施金裝雕木雲龍,內盤碾玉福海圓龍一,頂上匝以金塗鍮石耀葉八十一。 上圍九者二,中圍九者三,下圍九者四。 頂輪衣三重,上二重青繡雲龍瑞草,下一重無文。 輪衣內黃屋一,黃素纻絲瀝水,下周垂朱絲結網,青纻絲繡小帶四十八,帶頭綴金塗小銅鈴,青纻絲繡絡帶二。 頂輪平素面夾用青纻絲。 蓋四周垂流蘇八,飾以五色茸線結網五重,金塗銅鈸五,金塗木珠二十有五。 又系玉雜佩八,珩璜沖瑀全,金塗
The jade palanquin. It had a green body with gold fittings, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-fitted carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of ground jade on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in green with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung a crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small green ramie-silk embroidered bands with gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two green ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with green ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, five gilded bronze cymbals, and twenty-five gilded wood beads. Also attached were eight jade pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, along with gilded
63
鍮石鉤掛十六,黃茸貫頂天心直下十字繩二,各長三丈。 蓋下立朱漆柱四。 柱下直平盤,虛櫃,中欞三十,下外桄二。 漆繪犀、象、鸚鵡、錦雉、孔雀,隔窠嵌裝花板。 櫃周朱漆勾闌,雲拱地霞葉百七十有九,下垂牙護泥虛板,並朱漆畫瑞草。 勾闌上玉行龍十,碾玉蹲龍十,孔雀羽臺九,水精面火珠七,金圈焰銅照八。 輿下周垂朱絲結網,飾以金塗鍮石鐸三百,彩畫鍮石梅萼嵌網眼中。 輿之長轅三,界轅勾心各三,上下龍頭六。 前轅引手玉螭頭三,並系以蹲龍。 後轅方罨頭三,桄頭十六,絟以蹲龍三。 轅頭衡一,兩端玉龍頭二,上列金塗銅鳳十二,含以金塗銅鈴。 輿之軸一,輪二。 軸之挲羅二,明轄蹲龍絟,並青漆。 輪之輻各二十四,轂首壓貼金塗銅轂葉八十一,金塗鍮石擎耳戀攀四。 櫃之前,朱漆金裝雲龍輅牌一,牌字以玉裝綴。 輅之箱,四壁雕鎪漆畫填心隔窠龜文華板。 上層左畫青龍,右畫白虎,前畫朱雀,後畫玄武。 輅之前額,玉行龍二,奉一水精珠,後額如之。 前兩柱青茸鈴索五,貼金鸞和大響銅鈴十,金塗鍮石雙魚五。 下朱漆軾櫃一,櫃上金香球、金香寶、金香合、銀灰盤各一,並黃絲綬帶。 輅之後,朱漆後對一,金塗曲戌,黃纻絲銷金雲龍門簾一,緋纻絲繡雲龍帶二。 輅之中,金塗鍮石鉸碾玉龍椅一,靠背上金塗圈焰玉明珠一。 右建太常旗,十有二斿,青羅繡日、月、五星、升龍。 右建阘戟一,九斿,青羅繡雲龍。 中央黃羅繡青黑黼文兩旗,綢杠,並青羅,旗首金塗鍮石龍頭二,金塗銅鈴二,金塗鍮石鈸青纓緌十二重,金塗木珠流蘇十二重。 龍椅上,方坐一,綠褥一,皆錦。 銷金黃羅夾帕一,方輿地褥二,勾闌內褥八,皆用雜錦綺。 青漆金塗鍮石鉸葉踏道一,小褥五重。 青漆雕木塗金龍頭行馬一,小青漆梯一,青漆柄金塗長托叉二,短托叉二,金塗首青漆推竿一,青茸引輅索二,各長六丈餘,金塗銅環二,黃茸綏一。 輅馬、誕馬,並青色。 鞍轡鞦勒纓拂靷,並青韋,金飾。 誕馬青織金纻絲屜四副。 青羅銷金絹裏籠鞍六。 蓋輅黃絹大蒙帕一,黃油絹帕一。 駕士平巾大袖,並青繪纻絲為之。
brass-alloy hook hangers numbering sixteen, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes, each three zhang long. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy. Below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails. Rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks were lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels. Around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were ten jade walking dragons, ten ground-jade crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung a crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three jade chi-dragon hand-grips, each tied with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, bound with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with jade dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all in green lacquer. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-fitted cloud-dragon palanquin plaque with jade-inlaid characters. The palanquin box had four walls of carved, engraved, lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards. On the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two jade walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five green-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gilded brass-alloy hinged ground-jade dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the right was erected the Grand Constant flag with twelve streamers, of green gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was also erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of green gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of green gauze; each flag head bore two gilded brass-alloy dragon heads and two gilded bronze bells, with twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and green tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded wood-bead tassels. On the dragon chair were one square mat and one green cushion, both of brocade. There was one cut-gold yellow gauze sandwiched screen, two square palanquin floor mats, and eight mats within the balustrade, all of mixed brocade and damask. There was one green-lacquer gilded brass-alloy hinged-leaf step and five layers of small mats. Equipment included one green-lacquer carved wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small green-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with green-lacquer handles, one green-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two green-plush palanquin-pulling ropes each more than six zhang long, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush cord. The palanquin horses and guide horses were all green. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and cheek-pieces were all of green leather with gold ornament. The guide horses had four sets of green woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards. There were six green gauze cut-gold silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of green-painted ramie silk.
64
至治元年,英宗親祀太廟,詔中書及太常禮儀院、禮部定擬制鹵簿五輅。 以平章政事張珪、留守王伯勝、將作院使明裏董阿、侍儀使乙剌徒滿董其事。 是年,玉輅成。 明年,親祀禦之。 後復命造四輅,工未成而罷。
In Zhizhi 1 (1321), when Emperor Yingzong personally sacrificed at the Imperial Ancestral Temple, he ordered the Secretariat, the Court of Imperial Sacrifices, and the Ministry of Rites to draft specifications for the five ceremonial palanquins. Grand Councillor Zhang Gui, garrison commander Wang Bosheng, Commissioner of the Palace Construction Office Mingli Dong'a, and Master of Ceremonies Yilatuman were put in charge of the work. That year the jade palanquin was completed. The following year he rode it at his personal sacrifice. Later he again ordered the construction of the four remaining palanquins, but the work was suspended before completion.
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金輅。 赤質,金妝,青綠藻井,栲栳輪蓋。 外施金妝雕木雲龍,內盤真金福海圓龍一,頂上匝以金塗鍮石耀葉八十一。 上圍九者二,中圍九者三,下圍九者四。 頂輪衣三重,上二重大紅繡雲龍瑞草,下一重無文。 輪衣內黃屋一,黃素纻絲瀝水,下垂朱絲結網一周,大紅纻絲繡小帶四十八,帶頭綴金塗小銅鈴三百,大紅纻絲繡絡帶二。 頂輪平素面夾用緋纻絲。 蓋之四周垂流蘇八,飾以五色茸線結網五重,金塗鍮石雜佩八,珩璜沖瑀全,金塗鍮石鉤掛十有六,黃絨貫頂天心直下十字繩二。 蓋下立朱漆柱四,柱下直平盤,虛櫃,中欞三十,其下外桄二,漆繪犀、象、鸚鵡、錦雉、孔雀,隔窠嵌妝花板。 櫃上周遭朱漆勾闌,雲拱地霞葉一百七十有九,下垂牙護泥虛板,並朱漆畫瑞草。 勾闌上金塗鍮石行龍十二,金塗鍮石蹲龍十,孔雀羽臺九,水精面火珠七,金圈焰銅照八。 輿下垂朱絲結網一遭,飾以金塗鍮石鐸子三百,彩畫鍮石梅萼嵌網眼中。 輿之長轅三,界轅勾心各三,上下龍頭六。 前轅引手金塗鍮石螭頭三,並系以蹲龍。 後轅方罨頭三,桄頭十六,系以蹲龍三。 轅頭衡一,兩端金塗鍮石龍頭二,上列金塗銅鳳十二,含以金塗銅鈴。 輿之軸一,輪二。 軸之挲羅二,明轄蹲龍絟,並漆以赤。 輪之輻各二十有四,轂首壓貼金塗銅轂葉八十有一,金塗鍮石擎耳戀攀四。 櫃之前,朱漆金妝雲龍輅牌一,金塗鐵曲戌。 輅之箱,四壁雕鎪漆畫填心隔窠龜文花板,上層左畫青龍,右畫白虎,前畫朱雀,後畫玄武。 輅之前額,金行龍二,奉一水精珠,後額亦如之。 前兩柱緋絨鈴索五,貼金鸞和大響銅鈴十,金塗鍮石雙魚五。 下朱漆軾櫃一,櫃上金香球一,金香寶一,金香合,銀灰盤一,並黃纻絲綬帶。 輅之後,朱漆後對一,金塗曲戌,黃纻絲銷金雲龍門簾一,緋纻絲繡雲龍帶二。 輅之中,黃金妝鉸龍椅一,靠背上金塗圈焰玉明珠一。 左建太常斿,十有二斿,緋羅繡日、月、五星、升龍。 右建阘戟一,九斿,緋羅繡雲龍。 中央黃羅繡青黑黼文兩旗,綢杠,並大紅羅。 旗首金塗鍮石龍頭二,金塗銅鈴二,金塗鍮石鈸朱纓緌十二重,金塗木珠流蘇十二重。 龍椅上,金錦方坐子一,綠可貼 〈(金錦也。)〉 褥一,銷金黃羅夾帕一,方輿地金錦褥一,綠可貼褥一。 勾闌內,可貼條褥四,藍纻絲條褥四,朱漆金塗鍮石鉸葉踏道一,小可貼條褥五重。 朱漆雕木塗金龍頭行馬一,小朱漆梯一,朱漆柄金塗長托叉二,短托叉二,金塗首朱漆推竿一,紅絨引輅索二,金塗銅環二,黃絨執綏一。 輅馬、誕馬,並赤色。 鞍轡鞦勒纓拂套項,並赤韋,金妝。 誕馬紅織金纻絲屜四副,紅羅銷金紅絹裏籠鞍六。 蓋輅黃絹大蒙帕一,黃油絹帕一。 駕士平巾大袖,並緋繡纻絲為之。
The gold palanquin. It had a red body with gold decoration, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-decorated carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of solid gold on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in great red with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung a crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small great-red ramie-silk embroidered bands with three hundred gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two great-red ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with scarlet ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, eight gilded brass-alloy pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, sixteen gilded brass-alloy hook hangers, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy; below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails below, with rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels. Around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were twelve gilded brass-alloy walking dragons, ten gilded brass-alloy crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three gilded brass-alloy chi-dragon hand-grips, each tied with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, tied with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with gilded brass-alloy dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all lacquered red. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-decorated cloud-dragon palanquin plaque and a gilded iron curved rack. The palanquin box had four walls of carved, engraved, lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards; on the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two gold walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five scarlet-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow ramie-silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gold-decorated hinged dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the left was erected the Grand Constant streamers with twelve streamers of scarlet gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of scarlet gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of great-red gauze. Each flag head bore two gilded brass-alloy dragon heads and two gilded bronze bells, with twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and crimson tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded wood-bead tassels. On the dragon chair were one gold-brocade square seat and one green ke-tie The gloss notes that this refers to gold brocade.〉 cushion, one cut-gold yellow gauze sandwiched screen, one square palanquin floor mat of gold brocade, and one green ke-tie cushion. Within the balustrade were four ke-tie strip mats, four blue ramie-silk strip mats, one vermilion-lacquer gilded brass-alloy hinged-leaf step, and five layers of small ke-tie strip mats. Equipment included one vermilion-lacquer carved wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small vermilion-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with vermilion-lacquer handles, one vermilion-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two red-plush palanquin-pulling ropes, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush holding cord. The palanquin horses and guide horses were all red. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and neck collars were all of red leather with gold decoration. The guide horses had four sets of red woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards and six red gauze cut-gold red-silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of scarlet-embroidered ramie silk.
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象輅。 黃質,金妝,青綠藻井,栲栳輪蓋。 外施金妝雕木雲龍,內盤描金象牙雕福海圓龍一,頂上匝以金塗鍮石耀葉八十有一。 上圍九者二,中圍九者三,下圍九者四。 頂輪衣三重,上二重黃繡雲龍瑞草,下一重無文。 輪衣內黃屋一,黃素纻絲瀝水,下垂朱絲結網一遭,黃纻絲繡小帶四十有八,帶頭綴金塗小銅鈴三百,黃纻絲繡絡帶二。 頂輪平素面夾用黃纻絲。 蓋之四周垂流蘇八,飾以五色茸線結網五重,金塗銅鈸五,金塗木珠二十有五。 又系金塗鍮石雜佩八,珩璜沖瑀全,金塗鍮石鉤掛十有六,黃絨貫頂天心直下十字繩二。 蓋下立朱漆柱四,柱下直平盤,虛櫃,中欞三十,下外桄二,漆繪犀、象、鸚鵡、錦雉、孔雀,隔窠嵌妝花板。 櫃上周遭朱漆勾闌,雲拱地霞葉百七十有九,下垂牙護泥虛板,並朱漆畫瑞草。 勾闌上描金象牙雕行龍十,蹲龍十,孔雀羽臺九,水精面火珠七,金圈焰銅照八。 輿下垂朱絲結網一遭,飾以金塗鍮石鐸子三百,采畫鍮石梅萼嵌網眼中。 輿之長轅三,界轅勾心各三,上下龍頭六。 前轅引手描金象牙雕螭頭三,並系以蹲龍。 後轅方罨頭三,桄頭十有六,系以蹲龍三。 轅頭衡一,兩端描金象牙雕龍頭二,上列金塗銅鳳十二,含以金塗銅鈴。 輿之軸一,輪二。 軸之挲羅二,明轄蹲龍絟,並漆以黃。 輪之輻各二十有四,轂首壓貼金塗銅轂葉八十有一,金塗鍮石擎耳戀攀四。 櫃之前,朱漆金妝雲龍輅牌一,金塗鐵曲戌。 輅之箱,四傍雕鎪漆畫填心隔窠龜文花板,上層左畫青龍,右畫白虎,前畫朱雀,後畫玄武。 輅之前額,描金象牙雕行龍二,奉一水精珠,後額如之。 前兩柱黃絨鈴索五,貼金鸞和大響銅鈴十,金塗鍮石雙魚五。 下朱漆軾櫃一,櫃上金香球一,金香寶一,金香合一,銀灰盤一,並黃纻絲綬帶。 輅之後,朱漆後對一,金塗曲戌,黃纻絲銷金雲龍門簾一,緋纻絲繡雲龍帶二。 輅之中,黃金妝鉸描金象牙雕龍椅一,靠背上金塗圈焰玉明珠一。 左建太常旗一,十有二斿,黃羅繡日、月、五星、升龍。 右建阘戟一,九斿,黃羅繡雲龍。 中央黃羅繡青黑黼文兩旗,綢杠,並黃羅。 旗首金塗鍮石龍頭二,金塗銅鈴二,金塗鍮石鈸黃纓緌十二重,金塗木珠流蘇十二重。 龍椅上,金錦方坐一,綠可貼褥一。 勾闌內,可貼條褥四,藍纻絲條褥四,黃漆金塗鍮石鉸葉踏道一,小可貼條褥五重。 黃漆木塗金龍頭行馬一,小黃漆梯一,黃漆柄金塗長托叉二,短托叉二,金塗首黃漆推竿一,黃絨引輅索二,金塗銅環二,黃絨執綏一。 輅馬、誕馬,皆黃色。 鞍轡鞦勒纓拂套項,並金妝,黃韋。 誕馬銀褐織金纻絲屜四副,黃羅銷金黃絹裏籠鞍六。 蓋輅黃絹大蒙帕一,黃油絹帕一。 駕士平巾大袖,並黃繡纻絲為之。
The elephant palanquin. It had a yellow body with gold decoration, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-decorated carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of gold-inlaid ivory carving on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in yellow with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small yellow ramie-silk embroidered bands with three hundred gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two yellow ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with yellow ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, five gilded bronze cymbals, and twenty-five gilded wood beads. Also attached were eight gilded brass-alloy pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, sixteen gilded brass-alloy hook hangers, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy; below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails, with rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels. Around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were ten gold-inlaid ivory-carved walking dragons, ten crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three gold-inlaid ivory-carved chi-dragon hand-grips, each tied with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, tied with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with gold-inlaid ivory-carved dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all lacquered yellow. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-decorated cloud-dragon palanquin plaque and a gilded iron curved rack. The palanquin box had four sides of carved, engraved, lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards; on the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two gold-inlaid ivory-carved walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five yellow-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow ramie-silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gold-decorated hinged gold-inlaid ivory-carved dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the left was erected one Grand Constant flag with twelve streamers of yellow gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of yellow gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of yellow gauze. Each flag head bore two gilded brass-alloy dragon heads and two gilded bronze bells, with twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and yellow tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded wood-bead tassels. On the dragon chair were one gold-brocade square seat and one green ke-tie cushion. Within the balustrade were four ke-tie strip mats, four blue ramie-silk strip mats, one yellow-lacquer gilded brass-alloy hinged-leaf step, and five layers of small ke-tie strip mats. Equipment included one yellow-lacquer wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small yellow-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with yellow-lacquer handles, one yellow-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two yellow-plush palanquin-pulling ropes, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush holding cord. The palanquin horses and guide horses were all yellow. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and neck collars were all gold-decorated and of yellow leather. The guide horses had four sets of silver-brown woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards and six yellow gauze cut-gold yellow-silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of yellow-embroidered ramie silk.
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革輅。 白質,金妝,青綠藻井,栲栳輪蓋。 外施金妝雕木雲龍,內盤描金白檀雕福海圓龍一,頂上匝以金塗鍮石耀葉八十有一。 上圍九者二,中圍九者三,下圍九者四。 頂輪衣三重,上二重素白繡雲龍瑞草,下一重無文。 輪衣內黃屋一,黃素纻絲瀝水,下垂朱絲結網一遭,素白纻絲繡小帶四十有八,帶頭綴金塗小銅鈴三百,素白纻絲繡絡帶二。 頂輪平素面夾用白素纻絲。 蓋之四周垂流蘇八,飾以五色絨線結網五重,金塗銅鈸五,金塗木珠二十有五。 又系金塗鍮石雜佩八,珩璜沖瑀全,金塗鍮石鉤掛十有六,黃絨貫頂天心直下十字繩二。 蓋下立朱漆柱四,柱下直平盤,虛櫃,中欞三十,下外桄二,漆繪革鞔犀、象、鸚鵡、錦雉、孔雀,隔窠嵌妝花板。 櫃上周遭朱漆勾闌,雲拱地霞葉百七十有九,下垂牙護泥虛板,並朱漆畫瑞草。 勾闌上描金白檀行龍十,擺白蹲龍十,孔雀羽臺九,水精面火珠七,金圈焰銅照八。 輿下垂朱絲結網一遭,飾以金塗鍮石鐸子三百,彩畫鍮石梅萼嵌網眼中。 輿之長轅三,界轅勾心各三,上下龍頭六。 前轅引手擺白螭頭三,並系以蹲龍。 後轅方罨頭三,桄頭十有六,系以蹲龍三。 轅頭衡一,兩端擺白龍頭二,上列金塗銅鳳十二,含以金塗銅鈴。 輿之軸一,輪二。 軸之挲羅二,明轄蹲龍絟,皆漆以白。 其輪之輻各二十有四,轂首壓貼金塗銅轂葉八十有一,金塗鍮石擎耳戀攀四。 櫃之前,朱漆金妝雲龍輅牌一,金塗鐵曲戌。 輅箱之四傍,雕鎪革鞔漆畫填心,隔窠龜文花板,上層左畫青龍,右畫白虎,前畫朱雀,後畫玄武。 輅之前額,白檀行龍二,奉一水精珠,後額如之。 前兩柱素白絨鈴索五,帖金鸞和大響銅鈴十,金塗鍮石雙魚五。 下朱漆革鞔軾櫃一,櫃上金香球一,金香寶一,金香合一,銀灰盤一,皆黃纻絲綬帶。 輅之後,朱漆革鞔後對一,金塗曲戌,黃纻絲銷金雲龍門簾一,緋纻絲繡雲龍帶二。 輅之中,金妝鉸白檀雕龍椅一,靠背上金塗圈焰玉明珠一。 右建太常旗一,十有二斿,白羅繡日、月、五星、升龍。 右建阘戟一,九斿,素白羅繡雲龍。 中央黃羅繡青黑黼文兩旗,綢杠,並素白羅,旗首金塗鍮石龍頭二,金塗銅鈴二,金塗鍮石鈸素白纓緌十有二重,金塗木珠流蘇十有二重。 龍椅上,金錦方座一,綠可貼褥一,銷金黃羅夾帕一,方輿地金錦褥一,綠可貼褥一。 勾闌內,可貼條褥五重。 素白漆雕木塗金龍頭行馬一,小白漆梯一,白漆柄金塗長托叉二,短托叉二,金塗首白漆推竿一,白絨引輅索二,金塗銅環二,黃絨執綏一。 輅馬、誕馬,皆白色。 鞍轡鞦勒纓拂套項,皆白圍,金妝。 誕馬白織金纻絲屜四副,白羅銷金白絹裏籠鞍六。 蓋輅黃絹大蒙帕一,黃油絹帕一。 駕士平巾大袖,皆白繡纻絲為之。
The leather palanquin. It had a white body with gold decoration, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-decorated carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of gold-inlaid white-sandalwood carving on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in plain white with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small plain-white ramie-silk embroidered bands with three hundred gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two plain-white ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with plain white ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, five gilded bronze cymbals, and twenty-five gilded wood beads. Also attached were eight gilded brass-alloy pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, sixteen gilded brass-alloy hook hangers, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy; below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails, with leather-covered rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels. Around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were ten gold-inlaid white-sandalwood walking dragons, ten white-inlaid crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three white-inlaid chi-dragon hand-grips, each tied with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, tied with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with white-inlaid dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all lacquered white. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-decorated cloud-dragon palanquin plaque and a gilded iron curved rack. The four sides of the palanquin box bore carved, engraved, leather-covered lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards; on the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two white-sandalwood walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five plain-white-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer leather-covered dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow ramie-silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer leather-covered rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gold-decorated hinged white-sandalwood carved dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the right was erected one Grand Constant flag with twelve streamers of white gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of plain white gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of plain white gauze; each flag head bore two gilded brass-alloy dragon heads and two gilded bronze bells, with twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and plain-white tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded wood-bead tassels. On the dragon chair were one gold-brocade square seat, one green ke-tie cushion, one cut-gold yellow gauze sandwiched screen, one square palanquin floor mat of gold brocade, and one green ke-tie cushion. Within the balustrade were five layers of ke-tie strip mats. Equipment included one plain-white-lacquer carved wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small white-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with white-lacquer handles, one white-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two white-plush palanquin-pulling ropes, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush holding cord. The palanquin horses and attendant horses were all white. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and neck collars were all white-trimmed with gold decoration. The attendant horses had four sets of white woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards and six white gauze cut-gold white-silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of white-embroidered ramie silk.
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木輅。 黑質,金妝,青綠藻井,栲栳輪蓋。 外施金妝雕木雲龍,內盤描金紫檀雕福海圓龍一,頂上匝以金塗鍮石耀葉八十有一。 上圍九者二,中圍九者三,下圍九者四。 頂輪衣三重,上二重皂繡雲龍瑞草,下一重無文。 輪衣內黃屋一,黃素纻絲瀝水,下垂朱絲結網一遭,皂纻絲繡小帶四十有八,帶頭綴金塗小銅鈴三百,皂纻絲繡絡帶二。 頂輪平素面夾用檀褐纻絲。 蓋之四周垂流蘇八,飾以五色絨線結網五重,金塗銅鈸五,金塗木珠二十五。 又系金塗鍮石雜佩八,珩璜沖瑀全,金塗鍮石鉤掛十有六,黃絨貫頂天心直下十字繩二。 蓋下立朱漆柱四,柱下直平盤,虛櫃,中欞三十,下外桄二,漆繪犀、象、鸚鵡、錦雉、孔雀,隔窠嵌妝花板,櫃上周遭朱漆勾闌,雲拱地霞葉百七十有九,下垂牙護泥虛板,皆朱漆畫瑞草。 勾闌上金嵌鑌鐵行龍十,蹲龍十,孔雀羽臺九,水精面火珠七,金圈焰銅照八。 輿下垂朱絲結網一遭,飾以金塗鍮石鐸子三百,彩畫鍮石梅萼嵌網眼中。 輿之長轅三,界轅勾心各三,上下龍頭六。 前轅引手金嵌鑌鐵螭頭三,皆絟以蹲龍。 後轅方罨頭三,桄頭十有六,系以蹲龍三。 轅頭衡一,兩端金嵌鑌鐵龍頭二,上列金塗銅鳳十二,含以金塗銅鈴。 輿之軸一,輪二。 軸之挲羅二,明轄蹲龍絟,並漆以黑。 輪之輻各二十有四,轂首壓貼金塗銅轂葉八十有一,金塗鍮石擎耳戀攀四。 櫃之前,朱漆金妝雲龍輅牌一,金塗鐵曲戌。 輅之箱,四傍雕鎪漆畫填心,隔窠龜文花板,上層左畫青龍,右畫白虎,前畫朱雀,後畫玄武。 輅之前額,金嵌鑌鐵行龍二,奉一水精珠,後額如之。 前兩柱皂絨鈴索五,貼金鸞和大響銅鈴十,金塗鍮石雙魚五。 下朱漆軾櫃一,櫃上金香球一,金香寶一,金香合一,銀灰盤一,皆黃纻絲綬帶。 輅之後,朱漆後對一,金塗曲戌,黃纻絲銷金雲龍門簾一,緋纻絲繡雲龍帶二。 輅之中,金妝烏木雕龍椅一,靠背上金塗圈焰玉明珠一。 左建太常旗一,十有二斿,皂羅繡日、月、五星、升龍。 右建阘戟一,九斿,皂羅繡雲龍。 中央黃羅繡青黑黼文兩旗,綢杠,並皂羅,旗首金塗鍮石鈸紫纓緌十有二重,金塗流蘇十有二重。 龍椅上,金錦方座一,綠可貼褥一,銷金黃罷夾帕一,方輿地金錦褥一,綠可貼褥一。 勾闌內,可貼條褥四,藍纻絲條褥四,黑漆金塗鍮石鉸葉踏道一,小可貼條褥五重。 黑漆雕木塗金龍頭行馬一,小黑漆梯一,黑漆柄金塗長托叉二,短托叉二,金塗首黑漆推竿一,皂絨引輅索二,金塗銅環二,黃絨執綏一。 輅馬、誕馬,並黑色。 鞍轡鞦勒纓拂套項,皆以淺黑韋,金妝。 誕馬紫織金纻絲屜四副,紫羅銷金紫絹裏籠鞍六。 蓋輅黃絹大蒙帕一,黃油絹帕一。 駕士平巾大袖,皆紫繡纻絲為之。
The wood palanquin. It had a black body with gold decoration, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-decorated carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of gold-inlaid red-sandalwood carving on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in black with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small black ramie-silk embroidered bands with three hundred gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two black ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with sandalwood-brown ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, five gilded bronze cymbals, and twenty-five gilded wood beads. Also attached were eight gilded brass-alloy pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, sixteen gilded brass-alloy hook hangers, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy; below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails, with rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels; around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were ten gold-inlaid cast-iron walking dragons, ten crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three gold-inlaid cast-iron chi-dragon hand-grips, each bound with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, tied with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with gold-inlaid cast-iron dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all lacquered black. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-decorated cloud-dragon palanquin plaque and a gilded iron curved rack. On the four sides of the palanquin box were carved, engraved lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards; on the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two gold-inlaid cast-iron walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five black-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow ramie-silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gold-decorated ebony carved dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the left was erected one Grand Constant flag with twelve streamers of black gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of black gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of black gauze; each flag head bore twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and purple tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded tassels. On the dragon chair were one gold-brocade square seat, one green ke-tie cushion, one cut-gold yellow gauze sandwiched screen, one square palanquin floor mat of gold brocade, and one green ke-tie cushion. Within the balustrade were four ke-tie strip mats, four blue ramie-silk strip mats, one black-lacquer gilded brass-alloy hinged-leaf step, and five layers of small ke-tie strip mats. Equipment included one black-lacquer carved wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small black-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with black-lacquer handles, one black-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two black-plush palanquin-pulling ropes, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush holding cord. The palanquin horses and attendant horses were all black. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and neck collars were all of light black leather with gold decoration. The attendant horses had four sets of purple woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards and six purple gauze cut-gold purple-silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of purple-embroidered ramie silk.
69
腰輿。 制以香木,後背作山字牙,嵌七寶妝雲龍屏風,上施金圈焰明珠,兩傍引手。 屏風下施雕鏤雲龍床。 坐前有踏床,可貼錦褥一。 坐上貂鼠緣金錦條褥,綠可貼方坐。
The waist litter. It was made of fragrant wood, with a backrest shaped in mountain-character teeth, an inlaid cloud-dragon screen decorated with the seven jewels, a gold ring-flame bright pearl mounted above, and hand-grips on both sides. Below the screen was fitted a carved openwork cloud-dragon couch. Before the seat was a foot-rest and one ke-tie brocade cushion. On the seat were a sable-bordered gold-brocade strip mat and a green ke-tie square seat.
70
象轎。 駕以象,凡巡幸則禦之。
The elephant palanquin. It was drawn by elephants; on inspection tours the ruler rode it.