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卷七十八 志第二十八: 輿服一

Volume 78 Treatises 31: Carriages and Clothes 1

Chapter 78 of 元史 · History of Yuan
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1
輿
Carriages and Clothes, Part One The gloss notes that Ceremonial Escort is appended at the end.〉
2
輿 簿
Looking back to antiquity, the Yellow Emperor, Yao, and Shun governed the realm simply by letting their robes hang at ease, drawing this pattern from the hexagrams Qian and Kun; They put oxen to the yoke and rode horses to haul heavy burdens over long distances, taking this model from the hexagram Da Zhuang. The regulations governing ceremonial dress and state carriages reach back to a very remote antiquity. The 《Documents of Yu》 records that Shun devised the twelve emblem patterns, using the five grades of dress to invest the worthy and carriage regalia to reward merit. The 《Record of Rites》 notes that Yu used the luan carriage, Xia the gou carriage, and Shang the great state carriage. Under the Zhou, earlier institutions were revised as needed; the cap master oversaw the king's five ceremonial caps and the carriage master the five state carriages, and only then did ritual protocol become fully established. Yet in discussing the great principles of governing the realm, Confucius praised the Yin carriage for its plain substance as hitting the mean, and the Zhou cap for its refined ornament as likewise attaining the mean. When Qin united the empire, it absorbed the carriages, banners, dress, and regalia of the six states to an extreme of lavish display, establishing the grand escort, the statutory escort, and the imperial guard of honor. The Han followed Qin and for the most part retained its institutions. From Tang through Song as well, courts imitated Qin practice and treated it as the grand ceremonial standard. On the question of balancing refinement and plain substance, men of discernment might sometimes raise objections.
3
輿 簿 輿 輿
When the Yuan first founded the dynasty, every institution was still being improvised, and caps, dress, carriages, and chariots all followed earlier custom. After the Founding Emperor unified the realm, he drew on Jin and Song for recent models and looked back to Han and Tang for distant precedent. When Emperor Yingzong personally sacrificed at the Grand Ancestral Temple, the imperial guard of honor was restored. Examining the institutions of that age, one finds above the Son of Heaven's ceremonial robes and caps, the crown prince's court dress, the emperor's zhisun regalia, the five state carriages together with waist litters and elephant palanquins, and the ceremonial guards and arms; and below, the sacrificial and court dress of officials, officials' zhisun regalia, and even the regulated colors worn by gentlemen and commoners—all brilliantly patterned and rigorously ordered. In general these regulations weighed past and present, adjusting them to the needs of the age while preserving native Yuan custom, thereby completing the full corpus of ritual protocol. In this way the splendor of the court, the dignity of the ancestral temples, and the full array of official regalia together constituted the ceremonial achievement of a dynasty. The 《Treatise on Carriages and Clothes》 was therefore compiled, with Ceremonial Escort appended at the end.
4
Ceremonial Caps and Robes
5
調 調
The Son of Heaven's ceremonial dress: for the ancestral temple cap and robes, lacquered gauze was used; the upper covering is called the cap board, green on the outside and vermilion within. Around all four sides of the cap board, cloud-and-dragon motifs ran in a band. The rim of the cap was ringed with pearls. Before and behind the cap board hung twelve pendants each, all of pearls. On either side of the board hung two yellow earplugs, secured with black cords and supported by jade stoppers; the plugs were yellow and strung with pearls. Around the cap, knotted nets of pearl cloud-dragons were threaded with kingfisher willow ornaments and strung pearls. A Milky Way band crossed the cap board horizontally, its ends reaching to the ground on either side. Pearl-inlaid net knots were worked in; two chin straps of kingfisher willow and vermilion silk were attached to the hairpins and strung with kingfisher willow and pearls. The hairpin was of jade and passed horizontally through the cap.
6
The dragon robe was made of green gauze and decorated in polychrome cut gold with one Imperial Star, one sun, one moon, four ascending dragons, four full-body dragons, thirty-eight mountains, forty-eight fires, forty-eight splendid creatures, and forty-eight tiger-moths.
7
The skirt was of scarlet gauze in pleated form, embroidered with sixteen rows in all, each row bearing two water-weeds, one grain emblem, two axes, and two opposed triangles. The inner robe was of white gauze with a crimson border, supplemented by a yellow girdle cloth.
8
The knee cover was made of scarlet gauze with a hem border. Its lining was scarlet silk; shaped like an apron and worn over the robe, it was embroidered with full-body dragons.
9
The jade pendant set comprised one top plaque, one middle plaque, one lower plaque, one angle tooth, and two arc plaques. The angle tooth linked the arc plaques; beneath the top plaque was a silver beast mask gilded in gold, flanked by twin arc plaques. Below that was another crossbar, with an angle tooth beneath it. At the sides were separately hung twin sounding plaques of jade to chime. The great belt was made of scarlet and white gauze sewn together.
10
The jade-ring sash was made of nasiji brocade. The gloss identifies nasiji as gold brocade.〉 It bore three small jade rings above and a green silk woven net below. Red gauze boots were made of red gauze with high shafts. Slippers were made of nasiji brocade, with two side flaps, belt hooks, and pearl ornamentation.
11
Socks were made of red damask.
12
穿
According to the 《Collected Rites of the Court of Imperial Sacrifices》, in the eleventh month of the twelfth year of Zhiyuan, erudites proposed the following: the cap's heaven board should measure one foot six inches long and eight inches wide, eight and a half inches high in front and nine and a half inches behind, with a total girth of one foot eight and a third inches including the front flap; green gauze was to form the outer layer and red gauze the lining, with gold bordering the entire circumference. On all four sides beneath the heaven board were pearl net knots and plain floral pendants; twenty-four pendants in all hung before and behind, all of pearls. A Milky Way band was woven in green and blue thread; at each end were three sections of pearl, gold, and kingfisher pendants, complete with jade drops and floral nodes. Two red cord tassel bands bore pearl, gold, and kingfisher pendants and jade drops above, with two gold bells below. There was one plum-red embroidered patterned curtain band, two yellow earplugs with hanging pearl pendants, and two gold calyx mounts above. Two each of hairpin nests, patterned curtain bands, and inlay nests, plus four inner band nests—all carved in jade. One jade hairpin, its crown carved with cloud-dragons. The dragon robe was of layered green gauze, the five colors interwoven with gold and painted with the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, and ritual vessels. On the front were one sun, one moon, four ascending dragons, and twelve mountains; on the upper and lower flaps, six pairs each of splendid creatures and of fire; tiger-moths, each (text missing) pair; on the back were one star, four ascending dragons, twelve mountains, twelve pairs each of splendid creatures and of fire, and six pairs of tiger-moths. The inner robe was of single-layer white gauze with a gauze collar and bordered cuffs. One skirt, fully bordered and cuffed, made of eight panels of layered red gauze. It was embroidered with water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles: thirty-two water-weeds, sixteen grain emblems, thirty-two axes, and thirty-two opposed triangles. One knee cover, bordered and cuffed, of eight panels of layered red gauze, embroidered above with two ascending dragons. One sash panel, woven in six colors with a red gauze backing. Three small sashes matching the great sash in color, with full cut-gold yellow gauze sash heads; two jade rings were set between them, both ground with cloud-dragons. One scarlet-and-white great belt with a cut-gold yellow belt head and twenty-four inlay nests. One red gauze girdle cloth and one green gauze sash band. Two pendant sets, each with one upper, middle, and lower arc plaque and two half-moon pieces—all jade ground with cloud-dragon designs. Two jade drops each, all strung together with pearls. Gold comb-hooks with beast faces and complete water-leaf ring nails. One cool belt, red gauze lined and made of pierced gold; bearing seven jade geese above, one lash-tail clasp each, gold dragon-clasp mouths, and tortoiseshell backing nails. One pair of shoes with double soles, red gauze uppers and white damask lining, ruyi-shaped toes, cut-gold yellow gauze borders, jade nose pieces, and ornamentation entirely of pearls. One pair of gold scarlet gauze brocade socks.
13
鹿
In the ninth month of the eleventh year of Dade, erudites noted Tang practice: the Son of Heaven's ancestral cap and robes bore twelve white pearl pendants; tassels served as chin straps matching the sash in color; yellow earplugs filled the ears; and a jade hairpin guided the cap. A dark upper robe and vermilion skirt bore twelve emblems in all. Eight emblems appeared on the robe: the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, fire, and ritual vessels; and four on the skirt: water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles. The bordered collar bore ascending dragons; all were woven in. Below the dragon emblem, each emblem occupied one row of twelve. The white gauze inner robe had an axe-pattern collar, green bordered cuffs and hem, and bore the opposed-triangle emblem plus dragon, mountain, and fire—three emblems in all. For the cui cap and higher grades, two emblems: fire and mountain. For the xi cap, one emblem: the mountain. The dark cap bore no emblems. The leather belt, great belt, jade pendant, sash, and socks were the same as above. The shoes bore additional gold ornamentation. This dress was worn for sacrifices at the ancestral temple, temple visits, court dispatch of great generals, victory feasts upon return from campaign, accession and capping ceremonies, receiving the empress, the New Year's audience, and enthroned investiture of princes and dukes. Song regulations likewise prescribed ancestral cap and robes for the Son of Heaven: the cap board was one foot two inches wide and two feet four inches long, with twelve pendants before and behind and two earplugs, all strung with pearls. There were also twelve kingfisher pendants held by blue phoenixes, placed outside the pearl pendants. The cap board was faced with dragon-scale brocade; jade was affixed above as the Seven Stars; twenty-four amber bottles and twenty-four rhinoceros-horn bottles were set at the sides; gold-thread net inlay circled the board, set with pearls and assorted gems and jade; and purple-cloud and white-crane brocade formed the lining. Four pillars were ornamented with the seven treasures and lined with red damask. A gold-ornamented jade hairpin guided the cap, with a red silk crimson tassel band. It was also called the Level-Heaven Cap. The dragon robe was green, bearing seven emblems: sun, moon, star, mountain, dragon, pheasant, and tiger-moth. The red skirt bore five emblems: water-weeds, fire, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles. The red knee cover bore two ascending dragons, all woven in and interspersed with cloud patterns, ornamented with gold hammered floral inlay nests and set with pearls, amber, and assorted gems and jade. The red gauze jacket-skirt was embroidered with five emblems and had green bordered cuffs and hem. There was one six-color sash, three small sashes, three knots, and three jade rings. The plain great belt had a vermilion lining. Two green gauze Four Spirits belts were embroidered with coiled Four Spirits motifs. The gloss notes that sash ornaments were the same as for the ancestral robes.〉 There were a white gauze inner robe, green gauze sash band, red gauze girdle cloth, a deer-path jade-fitted sword, and twin white jade pendants on a carved jade pommel with gold ornamentation, all strung with pearls. The outfit included a gold dragon-phoenix leather belt, red socks and vermilion shoes with gold hammered floral ornament, and Four Spirits jade nose pieces. This dress was worn for sacrifices to Heaven and Earth and the ancestral temples, for receiving an honorific title upon investiture, for the New Year's audience, and for investing the crown prince. This plan was never carried out.
14
使
In the seventh month of the seventh year of Yanyou, Emperor Yingzong instructed Basijisi, commissioner of the Court of Ritual, to order provincial ministers and the Court of Imperial Sacrifices and Ritual to prepare ceremonial dress without delay. In the eighth month, the Secretariat convened officials from the Hanlin Academy, the Academy of Scholarly Worthies, and the Court of Imperial Sacrifices and Ritual for deliberation; using illustrated models of former dynasties' ancestral caps, robes, and ceremonial dress preserved by the Directorate of Archives, they ordered the appropriate offices to manufacture regalia to those specifications.
15
The stabilizing scepter was made of jade, one foot two inches long, and came with a carrying bag.
16
The crown prince's cap and dress comprised ancestral cap and robes, a dark upper robe, vermilion skirt, inner robe, knee cover, jade pendant, great sash, vermilion socks, and vermilion shoes.
17
According to the 《Collected Rites of the Court of Imperial Sacrifices》, in the twelfth year of Zhiyuan, erudites proposed ancestral cap and robe regulations with nine white pearl pendants, red silk tassels as chin straps, green earplugs, and a rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide. The robe was green and the skirt vermilion, bearing nine emblems in all. Five emblems appeared on the robe: mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, fire, and ritual vessels; and four on the skirt: water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles. The white gauze inner robe had green bordered cuffs and hem. The leather belt bore gilded silver hook plaques. The knee cover matched the skirt in color and bore two emblems: fire and mountain. Fine jade twin pendants accompanied a great sash woven in four colors, with three jade rings set between. White socks and vermilion shoes, the shoes fitted with gold and gilded silver clasps.
18
In the ninth month of the eleventh year of Dade, regulations were drafted according to former dynasties' institutions. Under Tang regulations, the crown prince's ancestral cap and robes bore nine white pearl pendants, with red silk tassels as chin straps, green earplugs, and a rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide. The dark upper robe and vermilion skirt bore nine emblems. Five emblems appeared on the robe: mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, fire, and ritual vessels; Four emblems appeared on the skirt—water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles—all woven in, one emblem per row, with axes and opposed triangles repeated for gradation, nine per row. The white gauze inner robe had an axe-pattern collar and green bordered cuffs and hem. The outfit included a leather belt with gold hook plaques and a great belt. The knee cover matched the skirt in color and bore fire and mountain—two emblems. The regalia included a jade-fitted sword with a jade pommel ornamented in gold and gems, and fine jade twin pendants. The vermilion-cord great sash was woven in four colors—red, white, light blue, and dark blue—with a pure vermilion body, one zhang eight chi long and nine inches wide at the head. Small twin sashes measured two chi six cun, matching the great sash in color but half its width at the head, with three jade rings set between. Vermilion socks and vermilion shoes bore additional gold ornamentation. This dress was worn when attending sacrifices, visiting the temple, receiving the capping ceremony, and receiving a consort. Under Song regulations, the crown prince's ancestral cap and robes bore nine white pearl pendants, with red silk tassels as chin straps, green earplugs, and a rhinoceros-horn hairpin guide. The robe was green and the skirt vermilion, with nine emblems. Five emblems appeared on the robe: mountains, dragons, splendid creatures, fire, and ritual vessels; and four on the skirt: water-weeds, grain emblems, axes, and opposed triangles. The white gauze inner robe had green bordered cuffs and hem. The leather belt bore gilded silver hook plaques. The knee cover matched the skirt in color and bore fire and mountain—two emblems. Fine jade twin pendants accompanied a great sash woven in four colors, with three jade rings set between. White socks and vermilion shoes, the shoes fitted with gilded silver ornamentation. This dress was worn for the capping ceremony, attending sacrifices, receiving investiture documents, visiting the temple, and court assemblies. The regulations had been drafted, but the garments were never manufactured.
19
使
Sacrificial dress for the three offering officers, the Minister of Education, and the Grand Ritual Commissioner comprised five caged-cap sable cicada caps and five green gauze robes, The gloss notes that collar, sleeves, and border all used black damask.〉 five red gauze skirts, The gloss notes that black damask formed the border.〉 five red gauze knee covers, The gloss notes that all gauze patterns were peony designs.〉 five white gauze inner robes, The gloss notes yellow damask belts.〉 five vermilion-cord gold sash panels, The gloss notes vermilion-cord gold nasiji brocade, each bearing two jade rings.〉 There were also five ivory tablets, five silver belt clasps, five jade pendants, five white gauze square-heart curved collars, five pairs of red leather shoes, and five pairs of white damask socks.
20
Caps and dress for assisting officers and all ritual officers below comprised two hundred sable cicada caps, unicorn caps, and caps of seven, six, five, four, three, and two ribs, together with two hundred green gauze robes, The gloss notes that collar, sleeves, and border all used black damask.〉 two hundred red damask skirts, The gloss notes that black damask formed the border.〉 two hundred red gauze knee covers, two hundred purple gauze court robes, The gloss notes plum-blossom gauze.〉 two hundred white gauze inner robes, The gloss notes yellow damask belts.〉 two hundred gold-woven sash panels, The gloss notes one hundred ninety-eight in red and two in green, each bearing two bronze rings.〉 The inventory also included two hundred bronze belt clasps, two hundred white gauze square-heart curved collars, two hundred bronze pendants, two hundred spread-corner headcloths, thirty gilded lychee belts, one hundred seventy black horn belts, two hundred pairs each of black boots, red leather shoes, and white damask socks, thirty ivory tablets, and one hundred seventy ginkgo-wood tablets.
21
Whenever offering officers and ritual attendants performed the rites, they all wore ceremonial dress. Only the two surveillance censors wore unicorn caps and green sashes. For receiving incense, reading the prayer, or when rain fell on the day of sacrifice, all wore purple gauze court robes. Officials of sixth rank and below were all permitted to borrow purple robes.
22
Headmen and senior attendants of the Directorate Storehouse, Sacrificial Offerings Bureau, Ceremonial Escort Bureau, and Divine Kitchen Bureau were issued fifty crossed-corner headcloths, fifty narrow-sleeved purple gauze robes, fifty gilded belt clasps, and fifty pairs of black boots.
23
The first use of ceremonial caps and robes came in the eighth month of autumn in the renzi year under Emperor Xianzong, when Heaven was sacrificed to at Sun-Moon Mountain. In the third month of spring in the sixth year of Dade under Emperor Chengzong, Heaven was sacrificed to at the bing site outside Lizheng Gate; offering officers and all ritual attendants below were ordered to wear court robes for the ceremony. At that time Dadu had no suburban altar, and the use of court robes for the great suburban rite began on this occasion. In the ninth year, the winter solstice sacrifice used caps and dress according to the regulations then in use at the ancestral temple. Thereafter, for seasonal sacrifices, combined sacrifices to Heaven and Earth, added collateral worship seats, and offering and acting offices, caps and dress were continually provisioned and stored in the ceremonial dress repository. The repository held two hundred ninety-nine sets of ceremonial dress, two hundred eighty court robes, and two hundred ninety-five narrow purple garments. During the Zhida period, Court of Imperial Sacrifices erudites Li Zhishao and Wang Tianyou submitted memorials noting that for the emperor's personal sacrifice the cap bore no pendants, and he wore a great fur robe with ancestral robes over it; the fur robe was made of black lamb fleece. The caps and dress worn by officials in collateral worship varied according to what each dynasty esteemed. Collective deliberation concluded that they should follow the cap and dress regulations then in use at the ancestral temple.
24
Sacrificial dress for the Altars of Soil and Grain comprised one hundred twenty-three green gauze robes, one hundred thirty-three white gauze inner robes, and one hundred twenty-three red plum-blossom gauze skirts; two blue woven-brocade sash panels with bronze rings and one hundred seventeen red woven-brocade sash panels with bronze rings, plus four red woven-brocade sash panels with jade rings; one hundred twenty-three red plum-blossom gauze knee covers, leather shoes, white damask socks, white gauze square-heart curved collars, and yellow damask belts; one hundred twenty-three pendant sets, of which one hundred nineteen had bronze top and arc plaques and four had jade; one hundred twenty-three blue plain ramie-silk belts, four silver belts, and one hundred nineteen bronze belts; one hundred twenty-three caps, including one hundred seven water-horn hairpin gold-rib caps, ten gauze caps, two unicorn caps, and four caged-cap gauze caps; one hundred twenty-three wooden tablets, purple gauze court robes, black lacquer headcloths, and spread-corner two-color gauze insert collars; ten gilded bronze lychee belts and one hundred thirteen horn belts; thirteen ivory tablets and one hundred ten wooden tablets; one hundred twenty-three yellow silk wrappers, one hundred thirteen purple ramie-silk mouth-cuff blue felt socks, and one hundred twenty-three black boots; plus thirty narrow purple gauze shirts with matching black lacquer headcloths, bronze belt clasps, yellow silk wrappers, black boots, and purple ramie-silk mouth-cuff blue felt socks.
25
Sacrificial dress for the Temple of the Exalted Sage included ceremonial dress for offering officers: three seven-rib caps, The gloss notes complete hairpins.〉 three crow-blue robes and three velvet brocade sash panels, The gloss notes that each bore a green velvet net and two bronze rings.〉 There were also three square-heart curved collars, three blue knotted belts, three bronze pendants, three red gauze skirts, three white silk inner robes, three red gauze knee covers, and three leather shoes. The gloss notes complete white silk socks.〉
26
Scholar dress for ritual officers comprised ninety-eight each of soft-corner Tang headcloths, white pleated insert collars, yellow boot horn belts, and black boots.
27
Sacrificial dress for Qufu comprised forty-three linked cicada caps, three seven-rib caps, thirty-six five-rib caps, four three-rib caps, thirty-six pairs of black ramie silk shoes, two spread-corner headcloths, forty soft-corner Tang headcloths, forty-three horn hairpins, and forty-three sets of cap tassels, The gloss notes eighty-six pieces in all.〉 There were seven ivory tablets, thirty-eight wooden tablets, and seven jade pendants, The gloss notes fourteen pendant strings in all.〉 thirty-six bronze pendant sets, The gloss notes seventy-two pendant strings in all.〉 the inventory also listed eighty-five belts, including seven blue belt cords, thirty-six red belt cords, two black horn belts, forty yellow belt cords with black horn side belts, and seven great-red gold-sash knotted belts, The gloss notes fourteen jade rings on the upper part.〉 Also included were seven green gauze large-sleeved lined coats, two purple gauze court robes, thirty-six brown gauze large-sleeved coats, forty white gauze shirts, thirty-six white silk inner robes, seven white gauze inner robes, seven great-red gauze lined knee covers, thirty-six great-red lined skirts with scarlet-red gauze lined knee covers, four scarlet-red lined skirts, thirty-six yellow gauze lined skirts, seven yellow gauze great belts, seven white gauze square-heart curved collars, seven red gauze sash bands, thirty-six yellow silk great belts, forty-two pairs each of black boots and white sheep-felt socks, seven pairs of great-red gauze shoes, and forty-three pairs of white silk lined socks.
28
Zhisun, which in Chinese means a single-color dress, was worn at grand banquets within the inner court. Winter and summer garments differed, though no fixed standard governed them. Meritorious kin, senior ministers, and close attendants wore it when the court bestowed it upon them. Even musicians and guards had their own prescribed zhisun garments. Despite differences in fineness and rank, all such single-color garments were collectively termed zhisun.
29
綿
The emperor's zhisun winter wardrobe comprised eleven grades; when he wore nasiji brocade, The gloss notes gold brocade.〉 with qiemian lining, The gloss notes cut pile.〉 he wore a gold-brocade warm cap. When he wore great-red, peach-red, purple-blue, or green baoli robes, The gloss explains that baoli denotes garments with a lam border.〉 he wore a seven-jewel double-peaked crown. When he wore red-yellow powder fur, he wore a red-gold dazi warm cap. When he wore white powder fur, he wore a white-gold dazi warm cap. When he wore silver sable, he wore a silver-sable warm cap with a matching silver-sable shoulder piece above it. The gloss notes the common name panzi dahu.〉 Summer zhisun dress comprised fifteen grades; when he wore dana-du nasiji, The gloss notes large pearls set on gold brocade.〉 he wore a jeweled-peaked golden-phoenix cymbal hat. When he wore subudu nasiji, The gloss notes small pearls set on gold brocade.〉 he wore a pearl scrolling-cloud crown. When he wore nasiji, he wore the matching cap as well. When he wore great-red pearl baoli with red fur dana, he wore a pearl-edged cymbal hat. When he wore white fur with gold-thread baoli, he wore a white-rattan shell hat. When he wore camel-brown fur, he wore the matching cap as well. When he wore great-red, green, blue, silver-brown, jujube-brown, or gold-embroidered dragon five-color gauze, he wore a golden-phoenix-peaked hat in the corresponding color. When he wore gold-dragon green gauze, he wore a golden-phoenix-peaked lacquered-gauze crown. When he wore pearl-brown seven-jewel pearl-dragon dazi, he wore a yellow yahu shell-and-pearl rear-brim hat. When he wore blue suf lam robes with gold thread, The gloss explains that suf is the finest Hui wool cloth.〉 he wore a seven-jewel lacquered-gauze rear-brim hat.
30
綿
Officials' zhisun winter dress comprised nine grades: one each of great-red nasiji, great-red qiemian lining, and great-red plain cap cloth; one each of peach-red, blue, and green official plain cloth; and one each of purple, yellow, and crow-blue. Officials' zhisun summer dress comprised fourteen grades: one plain nasiji, one clustered-thread baoli nasiji, one jujube-brown all-gold interwoven silk with clam pearls, one great-red official plain baoli, one great-red bright-pearl dana, one each of peach-red, blue, green, and silver-brown, one Goryeo crow-blue cloud-sleeve gauze, one each of camel-brown, madder-red, and white fur, and one crow-blue official plain baoli.
31
Court robes of the hundred officials:
32
Court robes were made of gauze with large sleeves and round collars, all fastened on the right. First rank wore purple with large solitary-branch flowers five inches across. Second rank wore small solitary-branch flowers three inches across. Third rank wore scattered da flowers two inches across, without branches or leaves. Fourth and fifth ranks wore small mixed flowers one and a half inches across. Sixth and seventh ranks wore scarlet gauze with small mixed flowers one inch across. Eighth and ninth ranks wore plain green gauze without ornament.
33
Headcloths were made of lacquered gauze with spread corners. Tablets were made of ivory, rounded at the top and square at the bottom. Ginkgo wood might be used instead.
34
For side belts, regular and concurrent first rank used jade plaques, either patterned or plain. Second rank wore side belts with patterned rhinoceros horn plaques. Third and fourth ranks used gold plaques cast in the shape of lychee fruit. Officials of fifth rank and below wore black rhinoceros horn plaques. All bore eight plaques, and the belt cord was made of vermilion leather. Official boots were fashioned from black leather.
35
Ceremonial guard regalia included the crossed-corner headcloth, whose corners were folded and crossed at the back.
36
Phoenix-wing headcloths followed the Tang headcloth form, with upturned corners shaped as cloud heads and golden phoenix wings covering both sides. Scholar caps followed the Tang headcloth form, with both corners hanging down like spoon heads. Tang headcloths resembled standard headcloths, but with folded corners curving upward into cloud heads.
37
Crane-keeping headcloths followed the crossed-corner form, with a gold-filigreed forehead band. Flower-corner headcloths followed the crane-keeping form, with lifelike mixed flowers clustered on the corners and forehead.
38
Brocade caps were made of lacquered gauze with side rear panels, a high arched front that sloped downward, linked-coin brocade painted at the rear, and clustered ornament on the forehead. Level kerchiefs were made of black lacquered leather in the shape of the Advancement cap's cage kerchief, in either green or white. Military caps were made of lacquered leather.
39
Armored cavalry caps were made of black-lacquered leather with orpiment borders. Forehead bands were made of scarlet gauze embroidered with treasure flowers. Kerchiefs were made of five-colored silk tabby painted with udumbara flowers. Helmets were made of leather gilded in five colors to match the corresponding armor.
40
Lining armor followed the cloud-shoulder form, with a green brocade body bordered in white brocade, felt padding, and a white silk lining. Cloud shoulders were shaped like four hanging clouds, with green borders and five-colored yellow gauze inlaid with gold. Bingdang vests were cut like shirts. Lining robes were made of scarlet brocade and were what warriors wore beneath the bingdang vest.
41
Soldiers' robes were made of silk tabby painted with udumbara flowers. Narrow-sleeved robes were made of gauze or silk tabby. Plaited-line jackets followed the narrow-sleeved shirt form, with fine plaited folds at the waist. Crane-keeping jackets were made of green and scarlet brocade with round da-flower udumbara blossoms.
42
輿
Narrow-sleeved jackets in dark purple were worn by long-procession litter bearers. Musicians' jackets were made of scarlet brocade with bright-pearl pipa narrow sleeves and fine plaited folds.
43
Armor comprised arm covers, chest guards, back guards, and thigh guards made of leather, either patterned with tigers or lions or bearing gilded ring-mail ornament. Arm guards were made of brocade lined with green silk and fitted with double straps. Brocade teng snakes were hemp bindings one zhang one chi long, wrapped in red brocade.
44
Belt clasps had red belt cords with double otter tails and gilded bronze plaques, otherwise resembling waist belts but narrower. Crimson rings were made of gilded bronze. Sweat plaques were made of green brocade bordered in silver-brown brocade, sometimes embroidered with pouncing-beast motifs and interspersed with cloud patterns. Leg bindings were made of silk tabby.
45
Shoes were made of hemp. Daweng shoes had leather soles and extended uppers that were secured inside the leg bindings. Cloud-head boots were made of leather with cloud motifs inlaid on the sides and cloud-shaped toes, the daweng bindings tied around the shins.
46
Dress-color grades: In the twelfth month of winter in Yanyou 1 (1314), Emperor Renzong fixed the grades of dress and ornament. An edict declared: "In recent years gentlemen and commoners everywhere have competed in finery, blurring distinctions of rank, overstepping ritual propriety, and squandering wealth—conduct I will not tolerate. Distinctions between high and low should be clearly marked to clarify the national regulations; moderation in extravagance and restraint will help enrich the people's resources." He ordered the Secretariat to establish the dress-color grades set forth below.
47
First, Mongols were exempt from these restrictions, as were active Keshig personnel of all categories; only dragon-and-phoenix designs remained forbidden to them. The gloss notes that "dragon" denotes the five-clawed, two-horned form.〉
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First, for officeholders, apart from dragon-and-phoenix designs: ranks one and two wore whole-gold blossom ornament; rank three wore gold dazi; ranks four and five wore cloud-sleeve bordered-hem robes; ranks six and seven wore six-blossom patterns; and ranks eight and nine wore four-blossom patterns. The gloss notes that for substantive and honorary ranks, the higher of the two governs.〉 For waist-belt attachments, ranks five and below might use silver, with iron fittings reduced accordingly.
49
First, for titled ladies' dress: ranks one through three wore whole-gold ornament; ranks four and five wore gold dazi vests; ranks six and below wore only cut-gold decoration and gold-gauze dazi vests. For head ornaments: ranks one through three might use gold, pearls, gems, and jade; ranks four and five might use gold, jade, and pearls; ranks six and below might use gold alone, with pearls and jade permitted only for earrings. The gloss notes that entitlement followed the same household register regardless of closeness of kinship; mourning-grade close relatives counted even if registered separately, as did married daughters.〉
50
使
First, for vessels, The gloss notes that this refers to tea and wine vessels.〉 Except that chased dragon-and-phoenix designs were forbidden, ranks one through three might use gold and jade; ranks four and five might use gold only for stem cups; ranks six and below might use gold-plated stem cups; and all other vessels were to be of silver.
51
First, for tents and curtains: apart from the prohibition on ochre-yellow dragon-and-phoenix designs, ranks one through three might use gold-flower embroidered gauze and damask; ranks four and five might use embroidered gauze and damask; and ranks six and below might use plain gauze and damask.
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輿
First, for carriages: apart from dragon-and-phoenix designs, ranks one through three might use silver chi-dragon heads with interspersed gold decoration, embroidered bands, and green curtains; ranks four and five might use plain lion heads, embroidered bands, and green curtains; and ranks six through nine might use plain cloud heads, plain bands, and green curtains.
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滿
First, for saddles and bridles: rank one might be ornamented with gold and jade; ranks two and three with gold; ranks four and five with silver; and ranks six and below with brass alloy, bronze, and iron. First, clerks inside and outside the regular bureaucracy who held examination credentials, had completed tenure, and were eligible to enter the regular ranks were to dress, while in active service, according to rank nine.
54
First, acting personnel currently serving under sealed orders and rescripts issued by various agencies were also to dress according to rank nine.
55
輿
First, commoners were forbidden ochre-yellow but might wear dark-pattern ramie silk, figured silk, damask, gauze, and woolens; caps and hats might not be ornamented with gold or jade; and boots might not be cut in decorative patterns. For head ornaments they might use kingfisher-feather flowers, one gold hairpin, and one gold belt plaque; earrings alone might use gold, pearls, and green jade inlay; all other ornaments were to be of silver. For wine vessels they might use silver ewers, bottles, stem cups, bowls, and shallow dishes; all others were forbidden. Tents and curtains were to be of gauze and silk, not ochre-yellow; carriages were to be black-lacquered with level-headed, flat-topped black curtains.
56
First, persons of the various semu categories were subject to the same rules as commoners, except for campaign tents.
57
First, retired officeholders were to dress the same as incumbents. Those dismissed and demoted dressed according to the rank to which they were entitled; those not restored to rank dressed as commoners.
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使
First, where a father or grandfather had held office and had long since died, provided the family was not within the limits for crimes requiring expulsion and permanent disqualification, his titled lady and descendants dressed the same as incumbents. First, musicians and performers were to dress the same as commoners. Costume and makeup items used in performance were not subject to the above rules. First, runners and government messengers were permitted to wear only figured silk tabby.
59
First, when courtesans went abroad they might wear only black beizi jackets and might not ride in carriages or on horses; other rules followed established precedent. First, henceforth Han Chinese, Koreans, southerners, and others who had enrolled as Keshig were subject to these restrictions.
60
First, within the dress-color grades, higher ranks might adopt lower-grade items, but lower ranks might not usurp higher-grade privilege. Violators among officeholders were to be removed from their posts and, after one year, restored at one rank lower; all others were to receive fifty-seven strokes of the rod. Contraband items were to be awarded to the informant who reported and seized them. If the responsible offices failed to enforce the ban strictly, censorial investigators and surveillance commissions were to investigate and punish them.
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Items bestowed by the emperor were exempt from these restrictions. Imperial Palanquins
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The jade palanquin. It had a green body with gold fittings, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-fitted carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of ground jade on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in green with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung a crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small green ramie-silk embroidered bands with gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two green ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with green ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, five gilded bronze cymbals, and twenty-five gilded wood beads. Also attached were eight jade pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, along with gilded
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brass-alloy hook hangers numbering sixteen, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes, each three zhang long. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy. Below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails. Rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks were lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels. Around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were ten jade walking dragons, ten ground-jade crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung a crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three jade chi-dragon hand-grips, each tied with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, bound with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with jade dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all in green lacquer. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-fitted cloud-dragon palanquin plaque with jade-inlaid characters. The palanquin box had four walls of carved, engraved, lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards. On the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two jade walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five green-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gilded brass-alloy hinged ground-jade dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the right was erected the Grand Constant flag with twelve streamers, of green gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was also erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of green gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of green gauze; each flag head bore two gilded brass-alloy dragon heads and two gilded bronze bells, with twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and green tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded wood-bead tassels. On the dragon chair were one square mat and one green cushion, both of brocade. There was one cut-gold yellow gauze sandwiched screen, two square palanquin floor mats, and eight mats within the balustrade, all of mixed brocade and damask. There was one green-lacquer gilded brass-alloy hinged-leaf step and five layers of small mats. Equipment included one green-lacquer carved wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small green-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with green-lacquer handles, one green-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two green-plush palanquin-pulling ropes each more than six zhang long, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush cord. The palanquin horses and guide horses were all green. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and cheek-pieces were all of green leather with gold ornament. The guide horses had four sets of green woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards. There were six green gauze cut-gold silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of green-painted ramie silk.
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In Zhizhi 1 (1321), when Emperor Yingzong personally sacrificed at the Imperial Ancestral Temple, he ordered the Secretariat, the Court of Imperial Sacrifices, and the Ministry of Rites to draft specifications for the five ceremonial palanquins. Grand Councillor Zhang Gui, garrison commander Wang Bosheng, Commissioner of the Palace Construction Office Mingli Dong'a, and Master of Ceremonies Yilatuman were put in charge of the work. That year the jade palanquin was completed. The following year he rode it at his personal sacrifice. Later he again ordered the construction of the four remaining palanquins, but the work was suspended before completion.
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The gold palanquin. It had a red body with gold decoration, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-decorated carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of solid gold on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in great red with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung a crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small great-red ramie-silk embroidered bands with three hundred gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two great-red ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with scarlet ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, eight gilded brass-alloy pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, sixteen gilded brass-alloy hook hangers, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy; below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails below, with rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels. Around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were twelve gilded brass-alloy walking dragons, ten gilded brass-alloy crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three gilded brass-alloy chi-dragon hand-grips, each tied with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, tied with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with gilded brass-alloy dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all lacquered red. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-decorated cloud-dragon palanquin plaque and a gilded iron curved rack. The palanquin box had four walls of carved, engraved, lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards; on the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two gold walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five scarlet-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow ramie-silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gold-decorated hinged dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the left was erected the Grand Constant streamers with twelve streamers of scarlet gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of scarlet gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of great-red gauze. Each flag head bore two gilded brass-alloy dragon heads and two gilded bronze bells, with twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and crimson tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded wood-bead tassels. On the dragon chair were one gold-brocade square seat and one green ke-tie The gloss notes that this refers to gold brocade.〉 cushion, one cut-gold yellow gauze sandwiched screen, one square palanquin floor mat of gold brocade, and one green ke-tie cushion. Within the balustrade were four ke-tie strip mats, four blue ramie-silk strip mats, one vermilion-lacquer gilded brass-alloy hinged-leaf step, and five layers of small ke-tie strip mats. Equipment included one vermilion-lacquer carved wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small vermilion-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with vermilion-lacquer handles, one vermilion-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two red-plush palanquin-pulling ropes, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush holding cord. The palanquin horses and guide horses were all red. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and neck collars were all of red leather with gold decoration. The guide horses had four sets of red woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards and six red gauze cut-gold red-silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of scarlet-embroidered ramie silk.
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The elephant palanquin. It had a yellow body with gold decoration, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-decorated carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of gold-inlaid ivory carving on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in yellow with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small yellow ramie-silk embroidered bands with three hundred gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two yellow ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with yellow ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, five gilded bronze cymbals, and twenty-five gilded wood beads. Also attached were eight gilded brass-alloy pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, sixteen gilded brass-alloy hook hangers, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy; below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails, with rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels. Around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were ten gold-inlaid ivory-carved walking dragons, ten crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three gold-inlaid ivory-carved chi-dragon hand-grips, each tied with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, tied with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with gold-inlaid ivory-carved dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all lacquered yellow. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-decorated cloud-dragon palanquin plaque and a gilded iron curved rack. The palanquin box had four sides of carved, engraved, lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards; on the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two gold-inlaid ivory-carved walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five yellow-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow ramie-silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gold-decorated hinged gold-inlaid ivory-carved dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the left was erected one Grand Constant flag with twelve streamers of yellow gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of yellow gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of yellow gauze. Each flag head bore two gilded brass-alloy dragon heads and two gilded bronze bells, with twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and yellow tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded wood-bead tassels. On the dragon chair were one gold-brocade square seat and one green ke-tie cushion. Within the balustrade were four ke-tie strip mats, four blue ramie-silk strip mats, one yellow-lacquer gilded brass-alloy hinged-leaf step, and five layers of small ke-tie strip mats. Equipment included one yellow-lacquer wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small yellow-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with yellow-lacquer handles, one yellow-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two yellow-plush palanquin-pulling ropes, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush holding cord. The palanquin horses and guide horses were all yellow. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and neck collars were all gold-decorated and of yellow leather. The guide horses had four sets of silver-brown woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards and six yellow gauze cut-gold yellow-silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of yellow-embroidered ramie silk.
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The leather palanquin. It had a white body with gold decoration, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-decorated carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of gold-inlaid white-sandalwood carving on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in plain white with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small plain-white ramie-silk embroidered bands with three hundred gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two plain-white ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with plain white ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, five gilded bronze cymbals, and twenty-five gilded wood beads. Also attached were eight gilded brass-alloy pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, sixteen gilded brass-alloy hook hangers, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy; below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails, with leather-covered rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels. Around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were ten gold-inlaid white-sandalwood walking dragons, ten white-inlaid crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three white-inlaid chi-dragon hand-grips, each tied with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, tied with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with white-inlaid dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all lacquered white. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-decorated cloud-dragon palanquin plaque and a gilded iron curved rack. The four sides of the palanquin box bore carved, engraved, leather-covered lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards; on the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two white-sandalwood walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five plain-white-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer leather-covered dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow ramie-silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer leather-covered rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gold-decorated hinged white-sandalwood carved dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the right was erected one Grand Constant flag with twelve streamers of white gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of plain white gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of plain white gauze; each flag head bore two gilded brass-alloy dragon heads and two gilded bronze bells, with twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and plain-white tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded wood-bead tassels. On the dragon chair were one gold-brocade square seat, one green ke-tie cushion, one cut-gold yellow gauze sandwiched screen, one square palanquin floor mat of gold brocade, and one green ke-tie cushion. Within the balustrade were five layers of ke-tie strip mats. Equipment included one plain-white-lacquer carved wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small white-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with white-lacquer handles, one white-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two white-plush palanquin-pulling ropes, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush holding cord. The palanquin horses and attendant horses were all white. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and neck collars were all white-trimmed with gold decoration. The attendant horses had four sets of white woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards and six white gauze cut-gold white-silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of white-embroidered ramie silk.
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耀 輿 輿 輿 輿 竿
The wood palanquin. It had a black body with gold decoration, a green-blue caisson ceiling, and a wicker-style wheel canopy. The exterior bore gold-decorated carved cloud-dragons in wood; within was set one round dragon of gold-inlaid red-sandalwood carving on a Fortune Sea panel; and around the apex were eighty-one gilded brass-alloy radiant leaves. There were two upper rings of nine, three middle rings of nine, and four lower rings of nine. The canopy-wheel coverings came in three layers: the upper two were embroidered in black with cloud-dragons and auspicious plants, and the lower layer was plain. Within the wheel coverings was a yellow canopy with a plain yellow ramie-silk drip skirt; below hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net, forty-eight small black ramie-silk embroidered bands with three hundred gilded bronze bells at the ends, and two black ramie-silk embroidered lacing bands. The flat plain surface of the canopy wheel was interleaved with sandalwood-brown ramie silk. Eight tassels hung from the four sides of the canopy, which was ornamented with five layers of five-colored plush-thread knotted net, five gilded bronze cymbals, and twenty-five gilded wood beads. Also attached were eight gilded brass-alloy pendant sets complete with heng, huang, chong, and yu ornaments, sixteen gilded brass-alloy hook hangers, and two yellow-plush cords running straight down from the canopy apex along the cross ropes. Four vermilion-lacquer posts stood beneath the canopy; below the posts was a straight flat platform and hollow cabinet with thirty inner lattice bars and two outer lower rails, with rhinoceroses, elephants, parrots, golden pheasants, and peacocks lacquer-painted in bordered compartments with inlaid decorative panels; around the cabinet ran vermilion-lacquer balustrades with one hundred seventy-nine cloud-arch and sunset-leaf ornaments; below hung ivory-edged guard panels, all painted in vermilion lacquer with auspicious plants. On the balustrades were ten gold-inlaid cast-iron walking dragons, ten crouching dragons, nine peacock-feather platforms, seven crystal-faced fire pearls, and eight gold-ringed flame bronze mirrors. Around the lower part of the palanquin hung one circuit of crimson-silk knotted net ornamented with three hundred gilded brass-alloy bells and polychrome-painted brass-alloy plum blossoms set into the mesh. The palanquin had three long shafts, three boundary-shaft heart-hooks on each, and six dragon heads above and below. On the front shafts were three gold-inlaid cast-iron chi-dragon hand-grips, each bound with a crouching dragon. On the rear shafts were three square yantou heads and sixteen shaft heads, tied with three crouching dragons. There was one shaft-head crossbar with gold-inlaid cast-iron dragon heads at both ends; above it stood twelve gilded bronze phoenixes holding gilded bronze bells in their beaks. The palanquin had one axle and two wheels. The axle had two end collars and bright-hub crouching-dragon bindings, all lacquered black. Each wheel had twenty-four spokes; the hub cap was overlaid with eighty-one gilded bronze hub leaves; and there were four gilded brass-alloy bearing-ear love-binders. Before the cabinet hung one vermilion-lacquer, gold-decorated cloud-dragon palanquin plaque and a gilded iron curved rack. On the four sides of the palanquin box were carved, engraved lacquer-painted panels with filled centers, compartmented tortoise patterns, and ornamental boards; on the upper level the left side bore the azure dragon, the right the white tiger, the front the vermilion bird, and the rear the dark warrior. On the front brow of the palanquin two gold-inlaid cast-iron walking dragons presented a crystal pearl; the rear brow was the same. On the front two posts were five black-plush bell cords, ten gold-appliqué luan-harmony great-sounding bronze bells, and five gilded brass-alloy double-fish ornaments. Below was one vermilion-lacquer dashboard cabinet bearing one each of a gold incense ball, gold incense censer, gold incense box, and silver ash tray, all with yellow ramie-silk cord bands. Behind the palanquin stood one vermilion-lacquer rear screen and a gilded curved rack, with one yellow ramie-silk cut-gold cloud-dragon door curtain and two scarlet ramie-silk embroidered cloud-dragon bands. Within the palanquin was one gold-decorated ebony carved dragon chair with a gilded ring-flame jade bright pearl on the backrest. On the left was erected one Grand Constant flag with twelve streamers of black gauze embroidered with the sun, moon, five stars, and an ascending dragon. On the right was erected one tae halberd with nine streamers of black gauze embroidered with cloud-dragons. At the center were two yellow gauze flags embroidered with green-black fu patterns on silk-cord poles, all of black gauze; each flag head bore twelve layers of gilded brass-alloy cymbals and purple tassels and cords, and twelve layers of gilded tassels. On the dragon chair were one gold-brocade square seat, one green ke-tie cushion, one cut-gold yellow gauze sandwiched screen, one square palanquin floor mat of gold brocade, and one green ke-tie cushion. Within the balustrade were four ke-tie strip mats, four blue ramie-silk strip mats, one black-lacquer gilded brass-alloy hinged-leaf step, and five layers of small ke-tie strip mats. Equipment included one black-lacquer carved wooden dragon-head running horse coated in gold, one small black-lacquer ladder, two long and two short gilded support forks with black-lacquer handles, one black-lacquer pushing pole with a gilded head, two black-plush palanquin-pulling ropes, two gilded bronze rings, and one yellow-plush holding cord. The palanquin horses and attendant horses were all black. Saddles, bridles, cruppers, girths, tassels, whisk-feathers, and neck collars were all of light black leather with gold decoration. The attendant horses had four sets of purple woven-gold ramie-silk shin guards and six purple gauze cut-gold purple-silk-lined cage saddles. For covering the palanquin there was one large yellow silk cover cloth and one yellow oiled silk cloth. The escort riders wore level kerchiefs and large sleeves, all made of purple-embroidered ramie silk.
69
輿
The waist litter. It was made of fragrant wood, with a backrest shaped in mountain-character teeth, an inlaid cloud-dragon screen decorated with the seven jewels, a gold ring-flame bright pearl mounted above, and hand-grips on both sides. Below the screen was fitted a carved openwork cloud-dragon couch. Before the seat was a foot-rest and one ke-tie brocade cushion. On the seat were a sable-bordered gold-brocade strip mat and a green ke-tie square seat.
70
The elephant palanquin. It was drawn by elephants; on inspection tours the ruler rode it.
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